How to fix a siphon leak? A siphon flows under the bathroom: what to do? Plastic washstand leaks how to fix

The siphon is a device related to plumbing equipment. It is installed under the bathtub or sink and provides a connection to the sewer system through pipes. This element prevents the ingress of gases from the sewer into the living space. As a result, there is always a fresh and healthy smell in the building. Harmful vapors are trapped in the sewer system in a U-shaped water seal. A constant water layer of 50-70 mm helps this device to work most efficiently.

If a siphon leaks under the sink, then this indicates a poor-quality installation or contamination. It is known that the drain is subjected to intensive exploitation every day, for this reason, grease and dirt intensively accumulate in it. These greasy layers require periodic manual or chemical removal.

If a leak from the shutter is detected, red lead putty is usually used, identifying such troubles in the lower section contributes to the implementation of measures to strengthen the cork. The bottle-type siphon made of brass or chrome is cleaned by unscrewing the sedimentation tanks. Plastic varieties of such devices are processed by unscrewing the union nut; from cast iron, bolt nuts and a rubber gasket are removed along with a cover. Cleaning is done through a hydraulic valve with a revision.

The kitchen sink is a rather complicated technical device. It constantly experiences significant stress, thereby creating certain risks. Any owner is obliged to take a responsible approach to the choice of plumbing equipment, a siphon for the sink, water pipes, which can fail at any time.

The leakage of the drain under the sink indicates a mechanical breakdown, in which one of the elements is covered with rust and led to such results. And as you know, pipes in the kitchen are prone to getting into them a large amount of food debris. This contributes to the occurrence of blockages in them and the appearance of unnecessary condensation. Temperature drops can damage the surface of pipes, such phenomena are often found in country houses. In such cases, surface repairs should be carried out.

Diagnostic rules

You can determine the true cause of the malfunctioning of the siphon under the sink by disconnecting this element of the water supply. It is necessary, first of all, to shut off the water and carefully remove the pipe. An unpleasant odor that hits the nose indicates blockages that need to be eliminated.

Rusted steel pipes cannot be repaired. They need to be changed. New plastic pipes will help eliminate similar problems in the future. They are very practical and do not pose a health hazard. Plastic is not afraid of temperature extremes, moisture and corrosion. For this reason, these devices are so popular.

Set of accessories:

screwdriver;
cable for cleaning;
a vessel for pouring dirty water into it.

There are two types of siphon: knee and bottle siphon. The latter device looks like a flask and is placed under the base of the sink in the bathroom and in the kitchen. One end of it is displayed in the drain, and the other connects it to the plumbing. The knee part is defined under the bath, shower cabins, urinals, in the toilet. Its options can be a revision siphon and a corrugated drain. The first type is characterized by the presence of a socket, and the other is equipped with a corrugated hose, it must be bent on its own so that a kind of clamp is obtained. It is worth noting that this type of siphon begins to leak in very rare cases, because its base has the least amount of connecting elements.

So that this device for sinks does not cause problems during use, it needs a clear and correct installation and, just as important, proper care. The installation process itself is extremely simple, for this you just need to stock up on a set of tools and your own desire. The bottle siphon is the easiest to install.

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Direct assembly

In most cases, drainage parts for the sink are made of plastic, so all operations must be carried out very carefully, because such a thread can easily fail, it is worth pushing a little harder on it. Such repairs do not help to seal the joints, as a result of which the part will begin to leak.

A drain grate is fixed on the sink, which is fixed from below and connects the device in question to the drain device. The presence of two holes for draining the liquid provides a basis for the installation of 2 siphons.

When connecting household appliances such as a washing machine or dishwasher to this item, you can buy this part with several connectors.

The siphon is combined with a sewer pipe. First, the branch part is disconnected, then fixed in the sewer pipe and screwed back. For better sealing of these parts, a rubber or plastic ring is used, the thickness of which corresponds to 15 mm.

When starting to seal the seams of the sink siphon, you should stock up on sealant. Sealing the joints at toilets or urinals is associated with the use of a cement compound. During installation, it is necessary to monitor the integrity of the threads and gaskets. To check the correctness of the work done, you must turn on the water.

Many experts advise winding tow or silicone tape on the threads to improve the sealing of the joints.

The nut fits tightly. After that, the thread is coated with paste and the part is screwed on. After letting in the water, within 3 minutes you need to monitor the tightness of the joints. The absence of leaks indicates the correctness of the work done.

The siphon looks like a curved pipe, in the bend of which water from the sink remains. This water is just a water seal that prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors into living quarters. The siphon flows for a variety of reasons. However, this phenomenon is unpleasant and requires urgent action. So, if a malfunction is observed, then first of all it is highly desirable to turn off the taps responsible for supplying water to the apartment.

The most common reasons for the leakage of the siphon under the sink are improper installation of this equipment or non-observance of operating rules. For example, when owners neglect to clean a given plumbing fixture, it often results in the siphon under the sink leaking.
With constant use of plumbing, dirt and grease accumulate in the siphons, from time to time they must be cleaned out with the help of special means. Another cleaning option is to simply open the siphon and remove foreign contamination. Sometimes one siphon can be connected for several items at the same time. For example, on a washing machine, sink and shower. It is important to remember that in this case, cleaning will be required more often than if only one plumbing element was connected.
For the manufacture of a siphon, metal or plastic is most often used. However, today most manufacturers are ready to offer exclusively plastic siphons. This design consists of several parts connected by union nuts, the joints are additionally sealed with rubber gaskets and cuffs. You can assemble a modern plastic siphon by hand, without using any additional tools. But, unfortunately, plastic is not as strong as metal and therefore can leak even due to mechanical damage. For a leak, just a small chip or crack is enough, especially if it happens at the joints. A blow, sudden movement, strong loads on the part, for example, due to a poorly fixed shell or due to the fact that they lean on it, can lead to chips.
Another reason for a leak in a sink in a kitchen or bathroom is a factory defect. It is sometimes found when buying a product on the market or simply from an unverified manufacturer. In this case, cracks, chips or simply incorrectly selected parts may be initially, which will ensure leakage during operation.
The most common reason why the siphon is leaking is considered to be cracked gaskets. The fact is that the rubber used when joining parts can only be used for a certain period. After a while, due to the effect of water at various temperatures, it hardens, shrinks, changes shape, and as a result, cracks appear in the siphon.

Incorrect installation is one of the most common causes of siphon leaks.

A damaged siphon can either be replaced or repaired. But replacement takes much longer and will require additional costs from the owner. Repair, if desired and with some knowledge, can be done at home with the help of available tools.

Features of diagnostics of a faulty siphon

Most often, the cause of the leak is determined after disassembly. By the way, it is highly desirable to disassemble and assemble the siphon without the use of special tools. After disassembly, each part must be inspected and, if necessary, cleaned of contamination. It is better not to use wrenches when assembling and disassembling the siphon, even if we are talking about a metal element, and even more so if about a plastic one. Plastic is quite fragile, a wrench can damage it.

Before disassembling a defective siphon, it is recommended to take the following measures. Purchase a special agent for cleaning drain pipes and pour the mixture into the drain, then after a while rinse with boiling water. This will slightly clean the siphon from dirt and simplify the disassembly process in the future.

Before disassembling the siphon, it is advisable to take into account that liquid will drip or even flow from it, so you need to stock up on buckets and rags.
During disassembly, a plug will save you from the smell of sewer gases, which should be suitable in diameter to the drain pipe where the siphon is attached. The most common standard diameter is 50 cm.
They will also need liquid soap, they will need to lubricate the rubber cuff to slightly extend its life.
The next step is to determine the location of the water leak. To do this, using a plunger, all the available liquid is pumped out of the drain, it is wiped dry, and a hermetically sealed stopper is inserted into the sink.
Then several liters of tap water are collected. Before draining the water under the sink, it is advisable to place a container or rag to collect the liquid so that the water does not pass onto the floor, this will help prevent a possible flood.
Then the plug is removed, and the water leaves, while it is necessary to look at the siphon and mark the place from which the liquid is pouring. Both a marker and a photo on your phone are suitable here.

If the siphon leaks under the sink, do not forget about the bucket and rags.

After determining the place where the malfunction has occurred, the water supply is shut off and the siphon can be removed. It is better to disassemble the plastic version exclusively by hand, and when disassembling the metal one, you can use power tools. In a metal siphon, the nuts can stick to the metal tightly, so it is better to cut off their caps with a grinder so as not to damage the structure, and simply drill out the remaining fragments. When the drain is disassembled, it is advisable to wash every part of it in hot water and soap. No foreign chemicals should be used as there is a risk of damage to the equipment. The cleaned parts are wiped and dried, and then repairs can begin.

Leak elimination methods

As a rule, fixing the siphon is not difficult. And the materials necessary for this are found in the pantry of almost any home. Below are some recommendations on what to do if a siphon is leaking.

Required tools

Plastic siphons can be disassembled by hand, so no special tools are needed. Although in some cases a screwdriver can still be useful, a cable for cleaning drain pipes (a metal brush with a long handle or even the most common drag is also suitable), well, it is advisable to stock up on a rag and a container for water. To restore the tightness of spare parts and their joints, silicone glue or sealant, a composition of the "liquid nails" type, and sometimes even an ordinary medical bandage will be useful.

A siphon leak can be repaired with "liquid nails"

If you have to disassemble a metal siphon, especially one that has been in use for a long time, then you may need tools such as a grinder and a drill. With their power, it will be possible to disassemble the siphon by sawing off the caps from the bolts, and then drilling out what remains. In order not to damage the metal siphon during disassembly, it is recommended to use power tools.

Restoring the tightness of gaskets

Erasing or otherwise changing the condition of the gaskets may cause the siphon to leak. It is best to replace rubber parts that have hardened during use. They are usually found in any specialty store. In order for the purchased parts to serve longer, they are lubricated with liquid soap or petroleum jelly, which makes the installation process easier.

However, there is not always a desire or opportunity to purchase new gaskets. In this case, you can try to restore the old ones. To restore them, you need to lubricate them with silicone glue, sealant or a compound called liquid nails, and then put in place. When the applied composition is dry, the plumbing can be used. This measure will extend the life of the rubber gaskets for several more years.

Elimination of cracks

If the pipe is cracked at the seam, then it is quite easy to repair it. To begin with, the place of the split is cleaned with sandpaper, and then greased with pre-diluted epoxy glue. If desired, dyes can be added to the composition used.

When the surface is oiled, it is wrapped with a medical bandage. This activity is performed two or three times. Thus, several layers of epoxy glue and bandages are obtained on the pipe. Drying time for such a construction is about six hours. After drying, the siphon can be put back in place and the plumbing can be used. The pipe, reinforced in this way, becomes much stronger than the one that was originally bought.

Sealing connections

Sealing of connections may be necessary in the event of a factory defect or during operation. Sometimes it becomes necessary to additionally seal the articulation points of the siphon parts. For example, worn threads make it difficult to firmly press the rubber gasket against the hole. In this case, tow or silicone tape is used for sealing. It is important to remove excess gasket after tightening the nut. In some cases, if the thread is seriously damaged, cold welding can be used, however, this will extend the service life for a very short time, since the brittle plastic will soon continue to crumble. In this case, it is better to attend to the purchase of a new siphon.

Recommendations for the operation and prevention of leakage of siphons

The siphon, like many other household items, needs maintenance. It must be disassembled and cleaned at least once a year. It is recommended to check the parts for abrasions and other damage at the same time as cleaning. Also at this moment it is worth changing the gaskets or lubricating the old ones with sealant.

It is very important to assemble the siphon, avoiding bevels, both during initial installation and after disassembly for cleaning. If you plan not to use plumbing in the house for a long time, then add any vegetable oil to the drain. This will protect the rubber parts from drying out, and will serve as an additional barrier against unpleasant odors in the home when all the water has evaporated.

It is important to remember that in order to prevent contamination of the siphon, you should not pour food waste, tea leaves or even just dirty water into the sink, since the water will go away, and all other impurities will remain on the walls of the structure and, at best, will lead to the need for quick cleaning. Before pouring something with foreign particles into the sink (everything except water, including even ordinary soup), you must install a special strainer that will protect the siphon from waste. Trapped particles are removed from the strainer and thrown into the trash.

By the way, when pouring out a fatty liquid, it should be borne in mind that fat can also settle and accumulate on the walls of the siphon. Partly this is saved by special chemical mixtures for cleaning drain pipes. They, of course, will not replace a full-fledged cleaning procedure, but they will allow you to perform it a little less often. The main thing during the use of such household chemicals is to carefully read and follow the instructions on the packaging, otherwise the procedure may not have a result.

Q: What tools are needed to repair a crane? Answer:

Of the tools, you only need a plumbing (or ordinary adjustable) wrench, with which you can unscrew a faucet of any size. To avoid damaging the chrome finish of the faucet, wrap the turn-off knot with a piece of thick cloth. If the top of the faucet cannot be unscrewed, the following will help: wrap the faucet with a rag and pour hot water on top. As a result of heating, the metal will expand slightly, and the screw connection will give in to the connector. Sometimes it is enough to tighten the top of the tap a little tighter to separate both threads.

Question: How to fix a tap leak? Answer:

In this case, it is necessary to change the gaskets between the unscrewed upper part of the valve and the fixed body. First of all, the water should be shut off. To do this, turn both valves to the stop on the pipes supplying cold and hot water to the apartment (they are usually called risers). The riser can be located in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet. Stock up on time with a set of different gaskets and seals so that you can carry out repairs in one working step.

Remove the old gasket, insert a new one and, if necessary, secure with a nut.

Question: When changing a leaking faucet, it was discovered that the screw that secured the faucet handle was rusted. What is the reason? Answer:

Any steel screws installed in the plumbing should be replaced with brass screws, even if they have anti-corrosion coating on them. If there are no brass screws, remove the steel screw, grease with a heavy grease (grease, petroleum jelly, lard, etc.) and tighten again. If the rusty screw does not loosen, then the handle of the crane (experts often call it a flywheel) will have to be sawed or broken. So it's best to avoid situations like this.

Question: What is “pumping water” in faucets? Answer:

This is what is often called the phenomenon when, when opening the head of the tap, for example, for hot water, cold water comes from the spout. The cause of the problem is a broken jumper in the middle of the mixer gasket. Another reason is the appearance of a through cavity in the middle common wall of the mixer. The formation of such a sink is possible during operation, although a poor-quality mixer sometimes comes directly from the factory. That is why when you open the tap head in the mixer above the bath, hot and cold water begins to "get confused". If this is not enough, the nearest neighbors will have the same. How to find the breakdown location? Turn off the hot water tap in your apartment and open the cold water tap on your mixer. If hot or warm water continues to flow after a long descent of water, then the neighbors are in trouble. To determine exactly which of the neighbors had a breakdown, it is necessary to repeat the experiment with them closing one of the valves.

Question: How to eliminate a leak at the junction of sewer pipes? Answer:

If a leak occurs at the junction of the pipes, you need to cover the entire joint around the circumference over the cement sealing with gum arabic (liquid glass), better known in everyday life as office silicate glue. After that, the cracks in the cement will be guaranteed to be "patched".

Question: How are blockages in the drain devices of the bathtub (sink) removed? Answer:

Here, as in medicine, it is easier to prevent a disease than to cure it. Prevention is needed. First, you need to use additional grates for the drain holes of the sink and bath. Secondly, once or twice a month arrange rinsing with boiling water. To clear the blockage, you can use a steep solution of soda or lye, a special "Mole" product. Standing water is scooped out of the bath (sink) and one of these agents is poured in for 1-1.5 hours, after which hot water is poured and pumped with a plunger. You can also clean the drain by connecting a flexible hose to the vacuum cleaner's outlet and leaning it firmly against the drain. For better sealing, the hose is wrapped with a wet rag or a special rubber washer is made. You can also eliminate the clogging of the drain with a jet of water supplied from the tap under pressure. To do this, a rubber hose of a suitable length is put on the tap, and the joint of the hose with the drain hole is also tightly sealed (to increase the pressure). If it is not possible to eliminate the problem by any of the methods described above, remove the siphon, depending on where the blockage occurred, and clean the drain with a stiff wire or cable.

Question: How is the cistern built into the wall repaired? Answer:

You don't have to dismantle the wall. And it’s not at all because these tanks don’t break. Sooner or later they will have to be repaired too. The point is different: inside such a tank is arranged differently. There are no rubber pears or rusty wires, but there is a block inside the built-in tank - a drain device. And nothing more. Accordingly, only this unit can fail. It is easy and simple to remove through the hole for the button of the built-in tank. Simply put, if something happens, you need to remove the button and through this hole you can reach the block with your hand. But, most importantly, after the repair, the part is simply lowered back. No additional installation is required.

Question: Although there are no visible leaks, puddles of water often form on the floor under the cistern. How to deal with this? Answer:

Uninsulated cisterns are often covered with water droplets, since the temperature difference between warm room air and cold tap water, which cools the cistern, contributes to the formation of moisture on its surface. In other words, the tank is sweating. But this is not an indicator of a malfunction of some node in the reservoir. You need a foam insulated tank. Or just periodically wipe the tank and floor.

Question: How to replace taffeta? Answer:

Taffeta is a wooden board on which the toilet is installed. Here are some guidelines for replacing taffeta. To make a new taffeta, measure the dimensions of the old one or determine these dimensions from the notch. Taffeta is made from well-rolled, durable wood. Anchors are installed from the bottom of the taffeta to ensure its reliability in the floor. The simplest anchors can be nails driven in a checkerboard pattern and protruding from the taffeta by 20-30 mm. The recess in the floor is filled with cement-sand mortar, in which the taffeta with anchors is embedded, flush with the floor. After the mortar has set, the toilet bowl is fixed with screws, which must be lubricated with grease (or any other lubricant) so that later they can be easily turned away. It is advisable not to put side loads on the toilet for a day or two.

Question: What should I do if water does not come out well from the sink and bathtub? Answer:

This usually occurs as a result of clogging of siphons or drainage pipes with objects that do not dissolve in water (hair, pieces of fabric, etc.), as well as from the accumulation of a layer of dirt and grease on the walls of the drain pipes. A small blockage can be removed using a plunger. To do this, it must be installed above the outlet so that the edges of the plunger bowl are firmly pressed against the surface of the sink (or bath). You need to pour water into the sink so that it covers the plunger bowl and then bend the bowl several times with sharp jerks of the handle, pressing it to the surface of the sink. If the blockage is removed, water will drain out of the sink to form a funnel above the outlet.

If you perform a similar operation with a bathtub that has an overflow that protects it from overflow, then when pumping with a plunger, the overflow hole should be closed by pressing a wet rag to it. If it is not possible to clean the drain, you need to open and rinse the siphon.

Question: How to clean the siphon? Answer:

To do this, unscrew its bottom cover (sump) and clean the inside of the siphon with a long sliver, wire or screwdriver.

How to fix a siphon leak

Before unscrewing the sump, it is recommended to place a basin or bucket under the siphon so as not to stain the bathroom or kitchen floor. After cleaning the siphon, screw the sump into place, making sure that the rubber O-ring has not fallen out of it. Often, after such cleaning, the siphon begins to leak exactly at the place where the thread connecting the siphon body and the sump is located. The fact is that the rubber sealing rings deform over time, therefore, after disassembling the siphon, you need to replace the old ring with a new one. It happens that replacing the O-ring will not help, then you can use a sealant, covering the joint between the siphon and the sump with it. If there was no sealant at hand, you can use plasticine for this purpose.

Question: How to fix the leak from under the sink? Answer:

If water is dripping from under the sink, then something has happened to the rubber O-ring located between the surface of the sink and the outlet: it either stretched, cracked, or moved from its place due to the fact that the union nut securing the outlet to sink, poorly twisted. If water flows from under the bathtub, it means that the same thing happened, or the overflow pipe burst. In the latter case, a new overflow is installed in place of the burst one.

Water flows from under the sink.

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The problem at first glance is trifling - puddles began to form under the sink in the kitchen. Found a leak from under the rubber gasket under the sink. I disassembled it - it turned out that the nut had crumbled, which, together with the screw, fasten the drain hole to the siphon. Just in case, I got a new gasket (although the old one has no signs of physical wear), replaced the screw and nut, and assembled it. Leakage from under the gasket continues. I experimented with the old gasket, turned it over, put two gaskets at once - the flow continues. I would be grateful for advice.

Is your siphon or sewer accidentally clogged? It's just that there shouldn't be any pressure there. Look for cracks in the siphon or plastic nuts. When I attach the siphon to the sink, I don't really hope for gaskets, I additionally use silicone sealant.

Pay attention to the intensity of the flow. If the pipes are just wet, it may be condensation, but if it really drips, then it makes sense to disassemble the entire system again and collect it dry. Silicone sealant will come in handy, there is a leak at the joints.

We had a similar story, but the water did not flow and sometimes collected.

What to do if the siphon leaks under the sink

I still could not understand where it came from, and the mixer seemed to be new, and the hoses were well kept and were always dry. It turned out that the hole for the mixer in the sink is slightly larger than the mixer itself and the gap was small. When the dishes were washed, the splashes fell into this gap and flowed under the sink.

Thanks for the advice, I did it. Now the problem is different - water flows from under the gander. The cartridge in the mixer was recently changed. And is it really the point? After I pulled out the cartridge - that's it, nothing else in the mixer understands. He was already knocking and twisting with an adjustable wrench through a rag. I tried to disassemble the mixer from below, where the studs are also a bummer. Maybe he doesn't intend to investigate further? I watched a video on the internet, so it said about some kind of horseshoe-shaped rubber gaskets in the area of the gander. But maybe this is not my version of the mixer? Who faced such a dilemma, clarify.

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Well, even such a seemingly eternal element as sink drain can also break and require replacement. And it would seem, after all, an ordinary hole, why break there?

But the passage of time is inexorable, and like any plumbing, the drain is also vulnerable to breakdowns.

Plum varieties

In general, there are different types of sinks. One of the most common options in Europe and the United States is the drain, which is secured with a large lock nut. This is a fairly old method of fastening, so it is found in houses built more than 15 years ago.

This drain is secured with a fixing nut. Plumbing mastic is used as a sealant.

Sink.
Drain body.
Rubber gasket.
Metal washer.
Locking nut.
Adapter.
A nut that is screwed onto the drain body.
Shank.

Plastic drain pipes located under the sink. This design will last for many years and is not afraid of rust.

Drainage pipes for two sinks, with connected dishwasher cable. And again the kingdom of plastic.

Of course, this is the old version of the plum, but it is still quite popular. Another old option is a retaining plate that is attached with a nut.

The old version of the drain attachment using the fixing plate and nuts. Requires the use of rubber gaskets and plumbing mastic where the drain is adjacent to the sink.

Sink.
Drain body.
Cover with plumbing paste.
Rubber gasket.
Flat iron washer.
Protrusions.
Grooves in the escutcheon.
Fastening plate.
Screws.
To attach the fixing plate to the drain body, the grooves of the plate are put on the projections, and then the screws are tightened.
Adapter.
Screw.
Shank.

Modern drainage options are a simple overhead cup with an extremely simple design.

Modern sink design. Plumbing mastic is also useful.

Drain body.
Plumbing mastic.
Sink.
Pad.
Cup pad.
Locking nut.
Shank washer.
Shank.
Nut for attaching the shank to the drain body.

The connection of the drain pipes for the sink takes place in 4 simple steps.

Two washbasin drains - with lifting lid and perforated surface.

Whichever version of the drain you use, time inexorably leads to the fact that sooner or later the drain begins to flow.

The leakage occurs where the drain is attached to the sink. It is quite easy to repair the drain.

Eliminate the leak in the sink drain

It is not difficult to get rid of the leak, but you must first remove the drain.

First of all, unscrew the nut that secures the drain shank.

To remove the drain with the trim, simply unscrew the retaining nut using a pipe wrench or pliers.

Unscrew the nut that secures the shank.
Unscrew the drain cup lock nut.
Use a pipe wrench or pliers.
Washer.
The bottom of the sink.
Cup overlay.
Unscrew the nut.
Shank nut.
Shank.
Unscrew or tighten the shank.

The pipe wrench is an indispensable tool for dismantling the sink drain.

Unscrew the drain fixing nut or the fixing screw. If the drain is of a cup design, a pipe wrench or pliers are indispensable. When the nut is too large, you can turn it by placing a piece of wood or a chisel and gently hitting it with a hammer. Do not overdo it and remember that the nut is unscrewed counterclockwise.

This drain is secured with an extremely large nut. Often, you can only unscrew it using a screwdriver (even better - a chisel) and a hammer. However, the pipe wrench should also work if you tighten it up properly.

Metal washer.
Rubber gasket.
Drain nut.
Chisel or screwdriver.
To loosen the nut, turn it counterclockwise.
Screw.
Unscrew the nut to secure the shank.
Shank.
P-shaped shutter.

Often, the entire drain rotates with the nut. It needs to be locked in place with a block of wood that can be inserted between the wall and the nut. Now follow these steps in sequence.

When the nut or screw is unscrewed, then everything is simple. Remove the rubber gasket and metal washer.
Now we take out the drain itself from the sink.
Thoroughly clean it from mineral deposits and old mastic.
Apply a layer of fresh mastic to the place where the drain is to be installed. Now press the drain against it.
Reinstall the spacer and washer. Sometimes, if they are very worn out, it is better to replace them.
Tighten the fixing nut or fixing screw.
Clean the remaining mastic in the sink to make the drain look nice and tidy.

Be sure to use sealing tape around the threads of the shank attachment before screwing back the retaining screw.

Done - now there will be no drainage.

Sink drain cover repair

As a rule, the drain in our sinks is closed with a regular plastic stopper, which prevents any garbage and food waste from entering the pipe.

However, in the USA and Europe, sinks are often found where the drain is covered with a special lifting lid. It opens by pressing a lever located next to the valves of the crane.

This is what the mechanism for lifting the sink drain lid looks like. The lifting level of the lid can be adjusted within a fairly wide range.

To adjust, unscrew the screw and move the lever.
To adjust, squeeze the clamp and move the lever.
Sink.
Drain cover.
Hinge nut.
Articulated arm.
Lifting arm.
Adjusting screw.
Lift arm clamp.
Spring clip.

An example of a typical sink drain equipped with a lever for easy lifting of the lid.

The mechanism for lifting the lid is usually mounted behind the sink. The lifting arm is connected to the adjustment screw by means of a suitable clamp. In this case, the lifting arm is operated by means of the articulated arm via a spring. Pressing the articulated arm and lifting the drain cover.

The lifting height can be controlled using an adjustment screw. If you loosen it, just move the clamp up or down and choose the position of the cover that you need, after which the screw will be fixed.

Sometimes the lid is attached directly to the articulated arm, and sometimes it just lies on the drain.

Sink drain covers come in many different types.

Rotate and lift the cover to remove it.
Pull the pivot arm and lift the cover.
Raise the articulated arm and remove the cover.
Tilt and swing when lifting.
Iron cover.
Pad.
Articulated arm.

If the lid is not fixed in any way, then it can be simply removed for cleaning.

Some covers have a special hook that connects it to an articulated arm. To remove such a cover, it is enough to turn it.

On other models, the lever goes directly through the cover itself, so it can only be removed by unscrewing the pivot lever locking nut and pulling the lever out of the cover. When you tighten the nut back, do not forget to use sealing mastic or tape.

Adjusting the sink drain cover

As we said in the previous article, in many sinks, not ordinary plug-in covers, but special lifting covers are used.

It is very easy to lift such a cover - just press the lever located next to the mixer valves. The very process of raising and lowering the lid is carried out through a spring mechanism hidden under the sink.

Chrome plated waste lid with sink lever.

The so-called plunger mechanisms have become widespread, when the lever pivots on a hinge and, thereby, moves the lifting lever up or down. There is a weight at the end of this lifting arm to close the drain.

Lever design of the drain cover.

Pad.
Cover plate located on the overflow pipe drain.
Tension spring.
The cover is closed.
The cover is open.
Overflowing.
Pad.
Thread for changing the position of the lever.
Lifting arm.
First nut.
Bathtub wall.
Plastic element with nuts.
Second nut.
Overflow pipe.
Draining.
Plunger.
Threaded plastic element.
Drain hole.
Nuts.
Plunger seat that blocks water when blocked.
To the trap that is under the floor.

Part of the mechanism for lifting the drain cover located under the sink.

As a rule, the load should completely cover the drain. However, if water still flows out, then the hole for the weight is heavily clogged. It's not difficult to clean it up at all.

Washbasin faucet installation video

One drain is not enough - of course, the sink needs a faucet, which is also a mixer. This video discusses in great detail the issue of installing a tap in the kitchen with your own hands.

How to clean the drain hole

Both the hole itself and the weight blocking the drain are often cleaned.

Let's see how you can do this.

Unscrew all screws at the drain hole in the sink.
Lift the entire plunger assembly out of the pipe.
The weight must be properly cleaned by putting it in apple cider vinegar or ordinary vinegar for a while.
The drain itself is simply flushed with water.
Now insert the plunger mechanism into place.
Secure the drain hole with the screws.

We clean the mechanism for lifting the lid.

Unscrew the overflow cap from the bath.
Pull the lift arm and plunger out of the overflow pipe hole.
Threaded lifting arm.
Plunger.

Often, water flows into the drain hole because the weight in the closed position does not reach the drain hole. You can solve this problem by lengthening the lift arm.

Replacing and repairing a siphon under the sink: 5 useful plumbing tips

There is no need to chemistry especially, since the possibility of lengthening the lever is provided on it. It is enough to unscrew the nuts and move the plastic part of the lever to the desired position.

How to adjust the length of the lifting arm in the drain cover lifting mechanism.

To decrease the length, move the nut up, move the plastic piece and move the second nut up. To lengthen the lever, all the same steps are performed in reverse order.
The lifting arm that leads to the articulated arm is threaded.
First nut.
Plastic element.
Lever to plunger.

There are certainly other lift arm designs, however, the method for changing the arm length remains roughly the same.

Drain lifting mechanism diagram

As for the lifting mechanism that is used to lift the drain cover, it is shown in the following drawing.

When the handle is turned, the spring is compressed, after which the drain hole opens. Otherwise, the spring is released and the lid opens, blocking the drain. The specific mechanism may differ, but the general principle of the mechanism remains the same.

The rotary knob is used to open or close the drain cover.
Turn the handle.
Back view.
Front view.
Pad.
Cover for overflow pipe.
Pen.
Earring.
Overflow pipe.
Spring.
Lifting arm.
Pipe wall.
Drain cover.
Sealing ring.
Flange.
Draining.
Rolling lever.
Nuts.
To the shutter that is under the floor.

Typically, the bottom of the lift arm is a spring. In this case, the handle, with which the lid lock is operated, interacts with the lifting lever. At the end of this arm is a spring that contacts another swing arm.

When the handle is turned, the lever presses on the spring and the lid rises to reveal the drain. It is necessary to turn the knob in the other direction and the pressure leaves the spring, as a result of which the lid "automatically" closes. The device, frankly speaking, is very primitive, but effective.

The lever mechanism can also be cleaned if desired. In addition, it is not uncommon for the sink drain cover to be equipped with a sealing rubber that wears out quickly and also needs to be replaced.

When the cover is lifted, the rocker arm can be easily pulled outward. To put it back, you need to carefully turn the lever so that it goes into the horizontal plane of the drain pipe.

The lever is pulled up and to the side, inserted in the same way.
Lid.
Flange.
Draining.

To get the levers, you need to unscrew the mounting screws in the right places. Then these levers are easily removed, just as you can get the plunger mechanism. To change the force with which the spring presses on the lever, simply change the length of the lift arm. To do this, you need to turn the nut that secures the spring. As a result, the lid will tightly close the drain hole and there will be no leaks.

Remember to clean all parts of the mechanism using regular table vinegar or apple cider vinegar, which is excellent for dissolving mineral deposits. All levers should move smoothly and without problems.

Drain plug with spring

Continuing the conversation about lifting covers for sink drainage, let's say a few words about such a variety as spring covers.

Such a cover works very simply and conveniently. To open it, just press on top. In this case, it is not necessary to use complex lever mechanisms, which are very difficult to repair.

The spring cover is surprisingly simple in design, without the need for levers or other mechanisms.

The cover is closed.
The cover is open.
Press to close the cover.
Washer gasket.
Round drain cover.
Spring mechanism.
Round plastic tube.
Press to open the cover.
Lid lifting mechanism.
Water flow.
Spring mechanism.
Round plastic tube.

Designer sink lid from BLANCO. A very simple and affordable solution if you are confused by the complex lid lifting mechanisms described in our article. But the choice is good because no one can impose someone else's point of view on you. Choose what you like.

To install such a sink cover, you just need to purchase it at any plumbing store. All the necessary parts are included with it, and this kind of cover is installed in just a few minutes.

Q: What tools are needed to repair a crane?
Answer: Of the tools, you only need a plumbing (or ordinary adjustable) wrench, with which you can unscrew a faucet of any size. To avoid damaging the chrome finish of the faucet, wrap the turn-off knot with a piece of thick cloth. If the top of the faucet cannot be unscrewed, the following will help: wrap the faucet with a rag and pour hot water on top. As a result of heating, the metal will expand slightly, and the screw connection will give in to the connector. Sometimes it is enough to tighten the top of the tap a little tighter to separate both threads.

Question: How to fix a tap leak?
Answer: In this case, it is necessary to change the gaskets between the unscrewed upper part of the valve and the fixed body. First of all, the water should be shut off. To do this, turn both valves to the stop on the pipes supplying cold and hot water to the apartment (they are usually called risers). The riser can be located in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet. Stock up on time with a set of different gaskets and seals so that you can carry out repairs in one working step. Remove the old gasket, insert a new one and, if necessary, secure with a nut.

Question: When changing a leaking faucet, it was discovered that the screw that secured the faucet handle was rusted. What is the reason?
Answer: Any steel screws installed in the plumbing should be replaced with brass screws, even if they have anti-corrosion coating on them. If there are no brass screws, remove the steel screw, grease with a heavy grease (grease, petroleum jelly, lard, etc.) and tighten again.
If the rusty screw does not loosen, then the handle of the crane (experts often call it a flywheel) will have to be sawed or broken. So it's best to avoid situations like this.

Question: What is “pumping water” in faucets?
Answer: This is what is often called the phenomenon when, when opening the head of the tap, for example, for hot water, cold water comes from the spout. The cause of the problem is a broken jumper in the middle of the mixer gasket. Another reason is the appearance of a through cavity in the middle common wall of the mixer. The formation of such a sink is possible during operation, although a poor-quality mixer sometimes comes directly from the factory. That is why when you open the tap head in the mixer above the bath, hot and cold water begins to "get confused". If this is not enough, the nearest neighbors will have the same.
How to find the breakdown location? Turn off the hot water tap in your apartment and open the cold water tap on your mixer. If hot or warm water continues to flow after a long descent of water, then the neighbors are in trouble. To determine exactly which of the neighbors had a breakdown, it is necessary to repeat the experiment with them closing one of the valves.

Question: How to eliminate a leak at the junction of sewer pipes?
Answer: If a leak occurs at the junction of the pipes, you need to cover the entire joint around the circumference over the cement sealing with gum arabic (liquid glass), better known in everyday life as office silicate glue. After that, the cracks in the cement will be guaranteed to be "patched".

Question: How are blockages in the drain devices of the bathtub (sink) removed?
Answer: Here, as in medicine, it is easier to prevent a disease than to cure it. Prevention is needed. First, you need to use additional grates for the drain holes of the sink and bath. Secondly, once or twice a month arrange rinsing with boiling water.
To clear the blockage, you can use a steep solution of soda or lye, a special "Mole" product. Standing water is scooped out of the bath (sink) and one of these agents is poured in for 1-1.5 hours, after which hot water is poured and pumped with a plunger.
You can also clean the drain by connecting a flexible hose to the vacuum cleaner's outlet and leaning it firmly against the drain. For better sealing, the hose is wrapped with a wet rag or a special rubber washer is made.
You can also eliminate the clogging of the drain with a jet of water supplied from the tap under pressure. To do this, a rubber hose of a suitable length is put on the tap, and the joint of the hose with the drain hole is also tightly sealed (to increase the pressure).
If it is not possible to eliminate the problem by any of the methods described above, remove the siphon, depending on where the blockage occurred, and clean the drain with a stiff wire or cable.

Question: How is the cistern built into the wall repaired?
Answer: You don't have to dismantle the wall. And it’s not at all because these tanks don’t break. Sooner or later they will have to be repaired too. The point is different: inside such a tank is arranged differently. There are no rubber pears or rusty wires, but there is a block inside the built-in tank - a drain device. And nothing more. Accordingly, only this unit can fail. It is easy and simple to remove through the hole for the button of the built-in tank. Simply put, if something happens, you need to remove the button and through this hole you can reach the block with your hand. But, most importantly, after the repair, the part is simply lowered back. No additional installation is required.

Question: Although there are no visible leaks, puddles of water often form on the floor under the cistern. How to deal with this?
Answer: Uninsulated cisterns are often covered with water droplets, since the temperature difference between warm room air and cold tap water, which cools the cistern, contributes to the formation of moisture on its surface. In other words, the tank is sweating. But this is not an indicator of a malfunction of some node in the reservoir.
You need a foam insulated tank. Or just periodically wipe the tank and floor.

Question: How to replace taffeta?
Answer: Taffeta is a wooden board on which the toilet is installed. Here are some guidelines for replacing taffeta. To make a new taffeta, measure the dimensions of the old one or determine these dimensions from the notch. Taffeta is made from well-rolled, durable wood. Anchors are installed from the bottom of the taffeta to ensure its reliability in the floor. The simplest anchors can be nails driven in a checkerboard pattern and protruding from the taffeta by 20-30 mm. The recess in the floor is filled with cement-sand mortar, in which the taffeta with anchors is embedded, flush with the floor. After the mortar has set, the toilet bowl is fixed with screws, which must be lubricated with grease (or any other lubricant) so that later they can be easily turned away. It is advisable not to put side loads on the toilet for a day or two.

Question: What should I do if water does not come out well from the sink and bathtub?
Answer: This usually occurs as a result of clogging of siphons or drainage pipes with objects that do not dissolve in water (hair, pieces of fabric, etc.), as well as from the accumulation of a layer of dirt and grease on the walls of the drain pipes. A small blockage can be removed using a plunger. To do this, it must be installed above the outlet so that the edges of the plunger bowl are firmly pressed against the surface of the sink (or bath). You need to pour water into the sink so that it covers the plunger bowl and then bend the bowl several times with sharp jerks of the handle, pressing it to the surface of the sink. If the blockage is removed, water will drain out of the sink to form a funnel above the outlet. If you perform a similar operation with a bathtub that has an overflow that protects it from overflow, then when pumping with a plunger, the overflow hole should be closed by pressing a wet rag to it. If it is not possible to clean the drain, you need to open and rinse the siphon.

Question: How to clean the siphon?
Answer: To do this, unscrew its bottom cover (sump) and clean the inside of the siphon with a long sliver, wire or screwdriver. Before unscrewing the sump, it is recommended to place a basin or bucket under the siphon so as not to stain the bathroom or kitchen floor. After cleaning the siphon, screw the sump into place, making sure that the rubber O-ring has not fallen out of it. Often, after such cleaning, the siphon begins to leak exactly at the place where the thread connecting the siphon body and the sump is located. The fact is that the rubber sealing rings deform over time, therefore, after disassembling the siphon, you need to replace the old ring with a new one. It happens that replacing the O-ring will not help, then you can use a sealant, covering the joint between the siphon and the sump with it. If there was no sealant at hand, you can use plasticine for this purpose.

Question: How to fix the leak from under the sink?
Answer: If water is dripping from under the sink, then something has happened to the rubber O-ring located between the surface of the sink and the outlet: it either stretched, cracked, or moved from its place due to the fact that the union nut securing the outlet to sink, poorly twisted. If water flows from under the bathtub, it means that the same thing happened, or the overflow pipe burst. In the latter case, a new overflow is installed in place of the burst one.

A siphon flowing under the bathroom is a problem that can poison your life.

There may be enough reasons for the leak. We will look at the reasons why the siphon is leaking in the bathroom and how to fix them.

To begin with, let's figure out what causes the puddles to appear under the bathroom, in what situations they arise and how intensely it happens.

Leaking siphon under the bathtub

Siphon flows under the bathroom - reasons

The most common ones are as follows:

Bath drain clogged

The rubber O-ring was worn out, that is, it cracked, stretched, or moved from its place due to a poorly tightened nut.
The overflow pipe burst.
Do not tighten the siphon tightly after cleaning it.
The bath siphon device is dirty. You can read about the device of the water seal in the article on our website "Installing and replacing the bath siphon".
O-rings are deformed.
The joint of the drain and overflow pipes loosened.
The connections are not tight due to stripped threads and damaged gaskets.

Bath siphon design

A siphon flows in the bathroom: ways to eliminate leaks

1. If the ring bursts or stretches, then also replace it with a new one.

2. If the overflow pipe bursts, replace it by installing a new one. How to remove the siphon from the bathtub and change its parts for new ones can also be found in the article on our website "Installing and replacing the bathtub siphon".

3. If the ring has moved, then - correct and tighten the nut well.

4. If the siphon is dirty, then the following must be done:

To prevent dirt from getting on the floor, place a basin or other suitable container under the siphon to collect liquids.
Unscrew the locking nut and carefully remove the siphon flask (bottom cover) so as not to damage the integrity of the connection and the thread.
Gently clean the inside of the siphon using a long wire or a screwdriver to remove plaque and any debris that has accumulated on the sides of the water seal.
Replace the bottom cover in reverse order. Important! Make sure the ring is in the same place.

5. If you change the shape of the O-rings, then this can happen due to the cleaning of the siphon. And you will not be able to return the siphon to its place as it was long before its present shape. Therefore, it is better to change the siphon when you clean it.

How ? Refer to the advice of the experienced ones on our website!

Often times, replacing the rings does not help. Then - coat the joint between the siphon and the bottom cover with silicone sealant.

6. If a siphon is flowing under the bathtub at the junction of the drain and overflow pipes, then - seal the joint around the entire circumference over the cement seal using liquid glass, i.e. office silicate glue. This way, you can reliably seal cracks in the cement.

7. If the siphon connections are not tight, then coat them with sealant. And also additionally "wind up" the thread with tow or special silicone tape, if it does not fit snugly. And then - coat the threads with paste and screw the part.

Siphon repair completed