How can you make a do-it-yourself oven drawings. How to fold a brick oven with your own hands: a step-by-step guide for properly laying a brick oven in a house. A simple stove with an oven: an orderly masonry scheme

It is not difficult to lay a brick stove, which is always ready to warm any home, yourself. You just need to learn some of the subtleties of building brick stoves and use the knowledge gained correctly.

What kind of brick oven can you install in your home and where is it better to do it?

By functionality, all stoves are usually divided into several types. The cookers have a special cast iron panel on which you can heat water and cook food. Such stoves are most often installed in summer cottages and in small private houses in which people do not live in winter. In principle, a cooking stove is capable of heating a small area, but its main task is not this, but cooking.

Heating ones are designed exclusively for heating the home. They do not cook on them, since they do not have a cooking panel, due to which they are usually very compact in size. Cooking and heating - a combination of the first two types of brick ovens, which makes it possible to heat a large area and cook any food. Often, such devices are equipped not only with a cast-iron panel, but also with a separate niche where you can dry fruits and vegetables, and a built-in oven.

Regardless of the type, any stove must be as fireproof as possible, not smoke when kindling and burning, and also create comfortable conditions for staying in the house. To achieve this, you need to choose the right place in the home where you want to fold the stove, guided by the following recommendations:

It is impossible to build a heating device near the outer wall of a residential building due to the fact that it will become very quickly cooled down due to the influence of cold air outside.
They put the stove in the middle of the room or next to the inner wall. It can also be built built into the wall. If the device is placed in the center of the room (this is done when the area of the dwelling is large enough), it divides it into several functional parts - living room and kitchen, bedroom and dining room, and so on. For small buildings, a stove built into the wall, or mounted directly under it, is more suitable.
To simplify the masonry, it is advisable to find a correctly drawn up ordering scheme for a specific type of oven.
If a stove is being built between two rooms, it must be separated from the wall surfaces with materials with a high heat resistance index.

Note that large heating devices (the number of bricks is more than 500) and with their own chimney should be installed in the house on a separate foundation. Moreover, he should not have a connection (mechanical) with the foundation of the structure (this requirement must be observed even when the house and the stove are being built together).

We make a foundation and choose a brick for building a furnace

If a relatively small stove is being built in an already operated house with a tiled concrete foundation, it is allowed to mount it directly on the existing base. On the concrete floor, you will only need to lay roofing material.

When the flooring of a timber building or the house is on a strip foundation, it will be necessary to prepare a separate base for the heating device.

You can do it yourself according to the following scheme:

We mark on the floor a place for the future brick stove.
We remove the marked part of the floor covering and dig a foundation pit in the ground under it (its depth should be about half a meter).
At the bottom of the pit we place a layer of sand (about 10 cm) and on top - rubble (the same thickness), tamp the resulting "pillow".
We put a plank around the perimeter of the pit (it is raised by about 11 cm above the level of the main floor covering).
Fill half of the hole under the stove foundation with a mixture of sand, crushed stone and cement, wait for it to harden.
Fill the second half of the pit with a solution (after the previous composition in the pit is firmly seized), which it is desirable to make more "thin" (add a little more water to it).

After that, it is necessary to carefully level the foundation with the rule and wait about a month until it hardens firmly. And at this time, you can choose and buy a brick, remembering that the durability of the stove depends on its quality.

For masonry, they use refractory, ceramic, fireclay and special oven bricks, as well as hand-molded products. All of these materials should be selected for markings that indicate their strength. A brick oven in a house should be built from special products of the M150 – M200 grades, which have:

uniform color;
straight edges with no chips and cracks;
geometrically correct shape;
dimensions 11.3x6.5 or 23x12.3 cm (it is advisable to buy bricks with just such parameters, since most of the ordering schemes are developed for them).

It is allowed to use fireclay bricks rather than oven bricks. But be prepared for the fact that the fireclay furnace will not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. Outside, fireclay products are faced with ceramic bricks. This must be done. This finish is also recommended for heating structures made of special oven bricks.

Masonry oven mortars - what should they be?

Before you fold the stove with your own hands, you should deal with the compositions that will ensure reliable fixation of the bricks and the entire structure. Usually, masonry mortars based on sand and clay are used (white kaolin or chamotte marl for ordinary bricks, gray Cambrian or ground refractory clay for ceramic).

The components of the composition for laying the stove must be selected very carefully. For example, if you sense that there is a smell (unpleasant or pleasant) coming from, do not take it. The aroma indicates the presence of organic matter in the raw material. Such clay is not suitable for laying the stove. Any sand is taken, the main thing is that there are no foreign impurities in it.

The proportions in a solution of clay and sand are determined empirically by conducting special tests according to the following scheme:

1 kg of clay is poured with plain water and left for 24 hours until the composition turns sour;
knead the clay to the state of plasticine (adding water to the sour mixture);
divide the batch into 3-5 parts and add sand to its different portions (from 10 to 100% by volume);
mix the solutions (as thoroughly as possible) and dry them for about 3.5 hours.

Then the samples should be carefully rolled out into 30-40 cm long "sausages" with a cross section of about 1.5 cm and wrapped around some round billet of a larger diameter. After that, they wait for the compositions to dry (about half an hour). It remains only to analyze the quality of the solutions.

If microscopic cracks have formed on the "sausage" or there are none at all, feel free to mix clay and sand in the proportions used for this sample. With cracks no more than 2 mm deep, the solution can be used for laying those sections of the heating structure that do not warm up above 280-300 ° C. If the "sausages" are covered with gaps and deep cracks, this means that there is too much sand in the prepared mixture. It is prohibited to use it for the construction of the furnace.

An even simpler option is to purchase a ready-made mixture for performing oven work at a hardware store. You do not want to bother with creating the "ideal" mortar yourself, just buy it and start building a brick oven.

It is important to strictly adhere to the ordering scheme you have chosen for a specific model of the stove structure, as well as to decide on the type of masonry. Common ways of installing bricks are with empty seams and undercut. In the latter case, there is no need to plaster the finished stove - there is a solution in it in all the seams made. But when working with empty seams, plastering the built furnace is a mandatory operation.

In order not to make fatal mistakes, beginners in the construction of home heating structures are advised to pre-lay bricks without using a sand-clay mixture. It is done in order using 5 mm thick slats. They are placed between the rows of bricks. In fact, the slats "replace" the solution.

After you build the entire oven dry, and make sure you did everything right, start disassembling the structure. If possible, number all the bricks and stack them separately. Then the process of finishing masonry will take place many times faster.

vertical seams (all without exception) must be filled with mortar in order to avoid the likelihood of delamination of the structure;
each brick in the masonry must be supported by at least two others;
the smallest joint width is 2 mm;
you need to bandage all rows vertically;
the thickness of the mortar for masonry is taken about 5-7 mm, after pressing it with bricks, this value decreases by 2-3 mm (it is allowed to lightly tap the rows with a rubber hammer);
when using ceramic bricks, they are dipped in ordinary water for a couple of seconds, due to which they adhere to the solution without any problems, there is no need to “bathe” fireclay products;
Before laying bricks, dust and crumbs should be cleaned with a hair brush (this operation is called mopping).

A few more important points. The bricks are laid in the designated place one by one. If the stone has gone "by", it must be removed, removed from the clay-sand mixture, and then put back. The mortar that was removed from the bricks is no longer used.

We carry out the laying of the stove on our own using an understandable and simple technology

The first row of the heating structure is laid out without the use of mortar. Then all the bricks included in it are carefully aligned and the locations of all doors and other elements of the furnace are determined. After that, you need to establish the position of the corner stones and lay them on the mortar.

We use a level to accurately align the position of bricks horizontally, as well as a tape measure to check the dimensions of the structure under construction in the diagonal and plan. Now you can lay the first row on the sand-clay mixture, starting from the middle of the row.

The verticality of the entire contour of the brick oven during its construction is controlled by a simple device - plumb lines, stretched on a string from the ceiling to the oven corners. Lines made in this way will be an excellent guideline for masonry. After completing the first row, we carry out the laying of the second row in a similar way:

we put stones in their place in the corners;
we check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line from the ceiling;
lay out the middle of the second row.

In the same way, we lay the third and subsequent rows of bricks. Do not forget to constantly check with the oven construction plan (with the order). It is imperative to clean the external and internal parts of the stones from excess mortar using a construction trowel.

Depending on the type of furnace, choose the location of the firebox, blower, ash pan. In a conventional heating device, the blower compartment is made most often after the third row of bricks, the ash pan - after the fifth.

When laying the stove, an important principle of dressing the stones used should be adhered to, which involves blocking the next row of each vertical seam with a brick. It is desirable that the vertical joint is located clearly in the center of the next row of bricks. In practice, such an "idyll" is rarely achieved. In this case, try to shift the seam by a maximum of a quarter of a stone.

Do not forget to mount a special sheet between the floor and the first row of masonry (it is called the pre-furnace). It will hide a small gap that is always present in this place. As you can see, a brick oven is not so difficult to lay out with your own hands.

Stove heating is not going to outlive itself at all. Brick wood stoves continue to be built not only by the owners of village houses, but also by the owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much it costs to hire a master stove-maker to build and buy the necessary materials. The only way to save money is to fold a brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - orders presented later in the article. Of course, the construction of a Russian or two-bell stove with a stove bench is beyond the power of a beginner, but you will be able to overcome a heat source of a simple design.

Simple Brick Kiln Projects

The first thing to worry about is choosing a home heater project that can meet your heat needs. We offer 3 options for uncomplicated structures, proven in many years of practice:

channel-type heating stove, the so-called Dutch;
a hob with an oven and a tank connected to water heating or hot water supply;
Swedish - a combined heater with a niche for drying clothes.

Duct stove - Dutch

It is quite simple to fold the Dutch woman shown in the picture on your own. It is notable for its small dimensions in terms of plan, but it can be placed in height indefinitely, while the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to heat a two or three-storey small house or a summer cottage, if you build a Dutch woman with a passage through the floors. The duct stove successfully burns firewood of various qualities and satisfactorily heats the premises, although you cannot call it economical.

Reference. The Dutchwoman quickly warms up, and after damping does not give off heat for long, the duration of burning from one tab also leaves much to be desired. Its strong point is its ease of construction and low demand for fuel.

The stove shown in the photo is a convenient option for a country house or a small dwelling in a village, including for use in the summer. A tank installed in the path of hot flue gases is capable of supplying hot water for the heating system or for household needs.

Swedish brick stoves combine the advantages of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, give off accumulated heat for a long time and work equally well on wood and coal. But the masonry of a Swede is not an example more complicated than a hob, plus more bricks and purchased iron fittings are required.

Swedish stove built between the walls

Drawings and orders of stoves

Furnace ordering - Dutch

Sectional diagram of a Dutch woman

The order of laying the hob

Schematic device of the plate
Ordering the Swedish oven

Any brick oven transfers heat to the room in two ways: using infrared radiation from hot walls and through heating the air circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating, it is necessary that the heater, or at least part of it, be in a heated room. Considering this requirement, we will give some tips for choosing a place for a building in a rural house and in the country:

If you need to heat one large room, then it is better to lay the stove in the middle, with a slight displacement towards the outer wall, where the cold comes from.
For heating 2-4 adjacent rooms, the structure must be placed in the center of the building, dismantling part of the interior partitions.
Suppose there are 1-2 small rooms adjacent to the hall. There you can carry out water heating with radiators and a circulation pump connected to a stove heat exchanger or a tank.
Do not plan to install the heater close to outside walls. It is pointless to warm them up, some of the heat will simply go out into the street.
The hob and oven should go into the kitchen, and the rough surface should go into the living room or bedroom.

Advice. When placing the heater in the center of a private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the ridge of the roof. It is better to displace the structure by 20-40 cm and bring the pipe through one of the roof slopes.

Partitions and floors made of wood or other combustible building materials, located closer than 500 mm from the furnace body, must subsequently be protected with metal sheets. It is advisable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard under them. In a stone house, these precautions apply only to wooden roofing elements located next to the chimney.

Procurement of materials and components

The main building material from which a do-it-yourself stove is built is red ceramic brick. It must be of high quality and always full-bodied, stones with voids inside are not used in the oven business, except for the construction of outdoor grills and barbecues.

Advice. The Dutch woman is so undemanding to the quality of materials that she can be made from used red bricks. Only after the completion of the masonry, it will have to be refined, for example, overlaid with tiles or come up with a beautiful tiled decor.

To fold a small-sized Dutch oven, you need to prepare the following materials and accessories:

red fired bricks - at least 390 pcs.;
grate grate 25 x 25 cm;
loading door 25 x 21 cm;
small doors for cleaning and blowing 14 x 14 cm;
metal flap 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch woman can be laid out in any required height. The specified number of bricks will be enough for construction in a one-story private house.

List of accessories and building materials for the hob:

solid ceramic bricks - 190 pcs.;
grate 25 x 5 cm;
a two-burner cast-iron stove measuring 53 x 18 cm with discs;
fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
metal tank - a boiler with dimensions of 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
cleaning doors 13 x 14 cm - 2 pcs .;
chimney valve;
steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm - 4 m.

To save money, you can take over the manufacture of a tank for heating water - simply weld it from metal with a thickness of 3, or better, 4 mm. There is another option: instead of a tank, place a coil, welded with your own hands from a steel pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm, inside the furnace. But we must remember that in such a water circuit it is necessary to organize constant circulation with the help of a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out.

To build a Swedish heating and cooking stove, you will need the same set of materials as for the stove. Just take a larger corner - 50 x 50 mm, buy a 40 x 4 mm steel strip and prepare a refractory (fireclay) brick for the firebox masonry. To install the hardware, look for a soft steel wire with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Masonry mortar advice. The preparation of natural clay, on which experienced stove-makers lay bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are advised to use ready-made clay-sand mixtures for the construction of stoves, which are available on the market.

Laying the foundation

A solid base must be prepared before folding the oven. The structure is rather heavy, therefore, it is unacceptable to place it directly on the floors, even those filled with cement screed. The foundation of the stove is an isolated structure, not in contact with the base of the building. If you are building a brick heater close to walls or erecting a corner fireplace, you need to indent at least 150 mm so that a minimum clearance of 10 cm remains between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are covered with a screed, then it is recommended to follow the following step-by-step instructions for the construction of the stove foundation:

Dismantle the screed section and dig a pit protruding 50 mm beyond the dimensions of the furnace in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of collapsing soil.
Fill in a 100 mm high sand pad and tamp it down. Fill the hole to the top with rubble stone or broken brick, then fill it with liquid cement mortar.
After hardening, lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material and install the formwork protruding above the screed, as shown in the drawing.
Prepare the concrete and pour the foundation slab. For strength, you can lay a reinforcing mesh there.

After 3 weeks (the time of complete hardening of the concrete mixture), put a sheet of roofing steel on the finished base, and on top - felt soaked in clay mortar or basalt cardboard. Then you can start laying the oven body.

Base arrangement diagram for wooden floors

To properly lay the foundation of the stove under wooden floors, use the same algorithm, but instead of a concrete slab, lay out the walls of red brick (you can use it) to the level of the floor covering. Fill the void inside with rubble or rubble and concrete from above. Further - a sheet of metal, clay-soaked felt and a continuous first row of oven masonry. You can get more information on the topic by watching the video

Heating and cooking stoves made of bricks, the projects of which will be presented below, can be called the best option for installation in country cottages and private houses. The functionality of this variety is such that it allows you to heat the room and feed the whole family with a delicious lunch. Equipped with an oven, drying chamber, and sometimes a hot water box, heating and cooking ovens are able to create the most comfortable conditions for living in a house without centralized or autonomously arranged amenities.

This type of oven can be of various sizes and design features. Structures can be massive or compact, and, as a rule, the right models are selected in accordance with the area of the house. Therefore, it is very important to take into account not only the functional qualities of the heating structure, but also its heat transfer. When choosing a place for erecting a furnace and conducting thermal insulation of a building, it is necessary to take into account the SNiP 41-01-2003 rules developed by specialists, otherwise problems may arise with organizations controlling the fire safety of residential buildings.

When deciding to build a stove on your own, it is necessary to prepare for labor-intensive and fairly long-term work, since the masonry process must be measured and carefully. In the absence of experience in the skill of a stove-maker, you should clearly adhere to the tips and recommendations that will be given below, as well as carefully study and thoroughly disassemble the presented ordering schemes.

Criteria for choosing the design of a heating and cooking furnace

As mentioned above, many projects have been developed for heating and cooking furnaces with various operational characteristics. In order for this heater to be efficient in operation and meet all the requirements, it is necessary to pay attention to the following points during its construction:

Dimensions of the brick structure. When choosing the size of the stove, you need to take into account the fact that its side walls give off more heat than the back and front surfaces.
Considering the size of the walls and their ability to give off heat, it is necessary to consider how the oven will be installed. To quickly and efficiently heat a room, the stove is placed on its side, and the cooking chamber is turned towards the kitchen area.
The shape of the stove can be T-shaped, square, rectangular, as well as with a ledge in the form of a stove or stove bench. Each of the ovens, when properly installed, can heat two to four rooms.
The heat transfer of a heating brick structure is selected depending on the area and location of the room that it must heat.

This table shows the dependence of the dimensions of the furnace (the area of its walls) relative to the area and location of the heated room:

Room area (m2)	Oven surface (m2)
	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outer corner	Room with two outer corners	Hallway
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

For small rooms, you should not choose massive heating structures, since a compact stove can also heat them. To warm up a massive furnace, a large amount of fuel is required, and such a structure will take a long time to warm up.
The efficiency of the furnace will directly depend on how insulated the building is. In a well-insulated house, a small stove will suffice, since the walls, floor and ceiling will reliably keep the heat generated by it inside the premises and will reliably protect against cold trying to penetrate from the outside.

Only having foreseen all these factors, they make a choice in favor of one or another model of a heating and cooking stove.

Heating and cooking oven models

The design of multifunctional models of stoves can be different - with a complex internal configuration of chimney ducts, and quite simple. If the laying of the stove will be done by a novice craftsman, then you should not immediately "swing" at complex and incomprehensible structures. Before getting down to work, you need to try to figure out how the heated air, along with the combustion products, will flow towards the chimney, since during laying it will be necessary to observe all the configurations of the rows in order to bring the gas ducts correctly.

The most popular models that have a design available for masonry are "Swede", "Dutch" and a cooking stove. In addition to them, there are heating facilities that are named by the names of their developers. So, you can find the orders of heating and cooking stoves by Proskurin, Bykov, Porfiriev, Kuznetsov, Podgorodnikov and other craftsmen.

You might be interested in information about how it describes.

Stoves can be divided according to their shape. So, they can have the following configuration.

The T-shaped heating and cooking stove is usually massive and can be installed in the middle of a large room, dividing it into different zones. Another option is that it is built into the walls between three rooms, fully heating them.

If the house is of medium size and does not have any other heating besides the stove, then the T-shaped model will be the best option for it, since you do not have to install and heat several stoves.

A narrow oven with a protruding hob is less functional, but it takes up much less space. This design is capable of fully heating two rooms, and therefore is perfect for a country house, especially, due to its simple design, even a novice stove-maker can probably fold it. The compactness of the structure allows it to be built into the wall between the living room and the kitchen.

So the oven will simultaneously be able not only to heat two rooms, but also to cook dinner. Such a stove is indispensable for a small country house, since it can be heated with dry branches or dead wood, and this good can always be found in the nearest forest plantation.

This stove model has a medium size and aesthetic appearance. Although it is not as massive as the "Russian", it is equipped with all the features typical of the latter. A chamber is built inside the structure, in which you can not only cook stews, but also bake aromatic homemade bread. A hob is installed in front of the entrance to the inner chamber.

Using it and the frying chamber, you can cook several dishes at once. Above the hob, there is a chamber for drying fruits and vegetables, and it can also be used to store ready-made meals that need to be kept warm.

The glass door of the firebox is large enough, so the stove, if desired, can also be used as a fireplace. The bed, heated on both sides, can serve as an excellent warm bed.

It is good to install such a stove between two rooms that need to be heated. This model is a good option for a country house if it is used for living most of the year.

This model may well be called a fireplace stove, and such a variant of a heating structure, as a rule, is installed in the middle of the house, only then dividing it into separate rooms. The fireplace insert goes into the living room or bedroom, the hob goes into the kitchen, and the back wall is quite capable of heating another small room. Thus, the whole house will be filled with dry and pleasant warmth emanating from the walls of the brick stove.

Most often, heating and cooking stoves have a "winter" and "summer" course in their design, which allows using only the stove and the oven in the warm season, without heating the entire massive structure. This function is convenient in that you do not have to endure the heat from a heated stove when it is summer weather outside, as well as the opportunity to save on fuel.

The location of the stove in the house

The place of the planned location of the stove plays an important role in ensuring high-quality heating at home, as well as in the practicality and safety of its use. However, there are other criteria that should be considered when choosing a location for its installation.

Most often, in a small house, the stove is installed on the crosshairs of the walls dividing the structure into separate rooms, as shown in the above diagram.
If the stove is located near the entrance, it will create a kind of heat curtain from cold air coming from the street.
The firebox door opening into the hallway or kitchen will make it possible to easily deliver fuel to it, which means less garbage will get into living rooms.
All walls of the heating structure must be free, that is, not covered with anything, and must not adjoin closely to the wall. This is explained by the fact that for the sake of safety and proper control, the masonry of the structure requires periodic inspection, preventive work and the release of the cleaning chambers from the accumulated burning.
The foundation of the stove must be reliable and not connected with the main foundation of the house itself. The reason - the different rate of shrinkage of the base - it is impossible for one to "pull" the other These factors must be foreseen for safety reasons, since if there is a deformation of the base of the furnace, cracks may appear in the joints between the bricks, through which it can penetrate into the premises carbon monoxide, dangerous not only for health, but also for human life.
The structure is installed so that the chimney passes between the floor beams, which, in turn, must be insulated from it with a heat-resistant material.
To comply with fire safety, in front of the fireboxes, it is necessary to place an area covered with a heat-resistant material - this can be sheet metal or ceramic tiles. For this site, space must also be provided in advance.

The main structural elements of the furnace

Starting to analyze the orders, it is necessary to have an understanding of the main elements of the furnace design, their purpose, since with such information the internal configuration of the channels and chambers will be clearer.

The firebox or fuel chamber can be called the "heart" of the stove. Fuel is put into it, after the combustion of which heat fills all internal channels of the structure, heating the entire structure.

The furnace is separated from the lower blowing chamber by a cast-iron grate, through which blowing is carried out, providing traction for heated air and combustion products. The combustion chamber has an opening in its ceiling that connects it to channels through which the smoke is directed into the chimney.

The blower chamber or ash pan is a regulator of air supply to the firebox and at the same time a collector for ash from fuel combusted in the firebox. This part of the stove must be periodically cleaned to avoid backdraft, which will cause smoke to enter the living area.
Cleaning chambers with cast iron doors are connected to the internal chimney ducts and are designed for regular cleaning. The soot deposited on the walls from the rising smoke eventually crumbles into the chambers, which must be periodically cleaned out, otherwise the draft in the chimney will be reduced.
The chimney ducts running inside the structure have different configurations in different models. They can run vertically and horizontally, covering the entire structure. Heated air passing through them gives off heat to the walls of the stove, which, in turn, radiate it into the room.

Each stove has its own system of internal channels for moving smoke and hot air

Metal and cast iron elements, such as a hot water tank, a hob and an oven, are built into the oven masonry according to the scheme and are intended for cooking and heating water.
If the design of the stove includes a fireplace insert, then a cast-iron grate must be installed in front of it to prevent burning firewood from falling out of the hearth.

Materials for the construction of the furnace

One of the most important issues is the acquisition of high-quality materials for the construction of the furnace, since the durability and reliability of the structure will depend on them. So, for the construction of a heating and cooking oven you will need:

Heat-resistant solid red brick. Its amount depends on the specific model. When buying material, you must carefully examine it - there should be no chips on the edges of the brick, and there should be no serious grooves on the surfaces. This material must be transported very carefully, as it is quite fragile.

Fireclay brick - for laying out heat-resistant sections of the furnace

Fireclay brick is used for facing the combustion chamber, as it can withstand temperatures of 1400 ÷ 1500 ° C. While warming up, this material retains a high temperature for a long time due to its density, which means that the oven will stay hot longer thanks to it.

Particular attention is paid to the quality of the masonry mortar

Fireclay brick prices

fireclay brick

For bricklaying, it is necessary to select the correct composition of the mortar. Rather, they are usually used even several - for different departments of the design. And yet, the main material for fastening bricks is a clay-sand mixture. Fireclay walls of the furnace are placed on the same mortar, only fireclay is added to it together with quartz sand. For the section of the chimney located outside, cement mortar is used. For the laying of the first two rows of the furnace structure, some craftsmen prefer to use a lime mixture.

The choice of masonry mortar requires a special approach.

Correctly choosing and making up a solution is a whole science. Some of the recommendations of the masters are set out in a special article on our portal, which tells exactly about.

Cast iron elements, such as doors, latches, stove, fireplace grate, etc., must be chosen not only for their quality, but sometimes also for decorative design, since they must correspond to the overall exterior of the stove.
Metal elements - an oven and a hot water tank, will be necessary if they are planned in the structure.
Annealed steel wire with a diameter of 4 ÷ 5 mm is required to secure the cast iron elements.
Asbestos sheet 5 mm thick or asbestos cord is required. They are used to create a thermal gap between brick and cast iron (steel) elements.

Now that there is clarity with preliminary planning and the necessary materials, you can proceed to the study of ordering schemes. Next, we will consider the construction of two affordable, functional and compact models that will certainly appeal to novice stove-makers.

Stove-fireplace "Swede" A. Ryazankin

This is a heating and cooking stove-fireplace, one of the many variations of the "Swede", which is quite popular among Russian stove-makers and householders. This design has gained its popularity not only due to the simple ordering scheme, but also due to the rapid heating of surfaces, and therefore the transfer of heat to the premises. In addition, the stove is equipped not only with a hob and oven, but its design also includes a fireplace function. The successful arrangement of all elements allows you to install it so that it will be effective for heating two rooms.

Heating and cooking "Swedish" stove-fireplace designed by Ryazankin

Another advantage of this model is its compactness, which allows it to be placed both in a small room and in a spacious room.

This Swedish model has a base size of 1020 × 890 mm and a height of 2170 mm, excluding the height of the chimney. It should be borne in mind that one side of the structure will be wider due to the protrusion of the fireplace portal by 130 mm.

The foundation for the installation of the stove must be arranged more than its base, and the sides of the poured square slab must be 1120 x 1120 mm.

This oven is wood-fired and has a capacity of 3000 kcal / hour. It is capable of effectively heating 32-35 m² of area, which is not bad for such a small structure.

What materials will be required?

Table of the required materials for the construction of a fireplace stove:

Material name	Size (mm)	Quantity (pcs.)
	250 × 120 × 60	714
Blower door	140 × 140	1
Combustion chamber door	210 × 250	1
Cleaning chamber door	140 × 140	8
Oven	450 × 360 × 300	1
	410 × 710	1
Grate	200 × 300	1
Chimney damper	130 × 250	3
Steel corner	50 × 50 × 5 × 1020	2
Steel strip	50 × 5 × 920	3
Steel strip	50 × 5 × 530	2
Steel strip	50 × 5 × 480	2
Fireplace grate, you can make it yourself from reinforcing rods.	110 × 700	1
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox	500 × 700	1
	5 mm thick	1

Table with the ordinal masonry of the heating and cooking "Swede" with a fireplace designed by Ryazankin

Scheme-ordering
	In order to have a better understanding of the layout of this model of the furnace, the project will be considered in the form of a drawing and in 3D projections, with a detailed description of each of the rows.
	The first row consists of 34 bricks and is the basis of the entire structure, therefore the brick covers it completely, that is, it forms a continuous surface. Installation of this row is carried out on a waterproofing material - roofing material, laid in 2-3 layers. Since the first row sets the reliability of the entire structure, it must be brought out perfectly evenly, having previously verified and marked the corners on the roofing felt using a square, a ruler and chalk. Further, keeping the diagram at hand and observing the location of the bricks, the laying is done first dry, and then on the mortar.
	The second row consists of 30 ½ bricks and, like the first, has a solid plane. From the side of the future fireplace, metal brackets are fixed to the brick, made of pieces of reinforcement, on which the fireplace grate will be welded. If the lattice already has brackets, then it is completely fixed to the brickwork.
	The third row consists of 19 bricks. At this stage, the walls of the furnaces and chimney ducts are laid. Leave at least 170 mm between the place where the oven will be located and the forming vertical duct. When laying the walls, openings are left for installing the blower and cleaning doors. Then the doors are put in place and secured with wire twists, which are embedded in the seams between the rows. Since only the next row can finally fix the wire, the doors are temporarily supported by stacks of bricks.
	The fourth row is laid out with 18 bricks. The doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are finally fixed on it. Due to the fact that a wire is embedded in the seams between the third and fourth rows, the seams can be two to three millimeters wider.
	The fifth row consists of 24 bricks. Above the blowing chamber, bricks are laid with grooves cut out in them, into which the grate will fit. In addition, a place is being prepared for installing the oven. The front bricks, in the place where the metal box will be installed, are cut off, since their height should be 25 mm. For laying out the walls of the furnace, it is recommended to use heat-resistant fireclay bricks.
	Before putting the oven box in place, it is lined or wrapped in asbestos to create a gap around it for thermal expansion when heated.
	On the fifth row, a grate 200 × 300 mm and an oven box 450 × 360 × 300 mm are installed.
	The sixth row is laid out with 19½ bricks. A combustion chamber is formed on it, on the right and rear walls of which the brick is installed on the side and cut to a height of 75 mm. On the same row, the passage between the oven chamber and the vertical channel is blocked. When laying out the back wall of the fireplace, the bricks move forward by 35 mm and shrink, forming a smooth transition from the extended row to the flat wall.
	On the sixth row, a combustion door (210 × 250 mm) is installed, which is wrapped in advance or lined with asbestos, which creates a gap for the thermal expansion of the metal when it is heated. The firebox door is also fixed with wire twists, which will be embedded in the next seam between the rows.
	Scheme-ordering from 7 to 12 rows, which will help to better consider the configuration of the masonry.
	The seventh row, consisting of 20 bricks, is laid out according to the scheme. The bricks that form the right and rear walls of the combustion chamber are installed on the side. The bricks on the rear wall of the fireplace insert in this row are also pushed forward by 35 mm and cut obliquely to form a single inclined plane. The front part of the fireplace insert is covered with a metal strip measuring 50 × 530 × 5 mm - it will become the basis for laying the next rows. This element can be laid evenly or in a semi-arch - for this, the strip is given the desired shape in advance.
	The eighth row consists of 18 bricks. The bricks on the back of the fireplace are pushed forward by 35 mm and are compared, by cutting them obliquely, with the rows below. The back wall of the fireplace should be inclined forward for smooth flow of smoke into the chimney hole when wood is burning in the firebox.
	The ninth row consists of 20 bricks. When it is laid out, the fuel chamber door is overlapped. The brick forming the back of the firebox is cut obliquely. The brick on the rear wall of the fireplace is pushed forward by 20 mm and is chipped from the bottom so that an even slope is formed without protrusions. The oven box is overlapped at the front by two steel strips, measuring 50 × 5 × 480 mm.
	10th row - the front of the oven is covered with a brick. The bricks are laid on metal strips. The combustion chamber and the oven space are combined into one common one. A cut-out is made in the upper part of the bricks flanking both chambers for laying the hob. A place is being made for installing the door on the cleaning chamber in the upper part of the fireplace. For this row, 17 ½ bricks are used.
	On the 10th row, a two-burner cooking stove with a size of 410 × 710 mm is installed on the prepared place, then a cleaning door 140 × 140 mm and a metal corner 50 × 50 × 5 × 1020 mm are installed, which will strengthen the front part of the cooking chamber. The cast iron hob is mounted on asbestos laid in the cutout on the top bricks.
	The 11th row is drawn from 18½ bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber begin to form. The bricks placed on the right must block the gap of 210 mm between the hob and the right wall. The bricks placed above the fireplace insert are pushed into the chamber by 40 mm and cut from the bottom at an angle, continuing to form the inclined shape of the rear wall of the fireplace.
	The 12th row is laid out with 18 bricks. The door of the cleaning chamber is closed in it. The bricks of the front wall of the fireplace firebox move inward by 40 mm and are cut obliquely.
	In this drawing, you can clearly see the configuration of brickwork from rows 13 to 24. Moreover, the diagram even shows the direction of movement of air masses through the chimney channels.
	The 13th row consists of 19 bricks. The elements of the front wall of the fireplace move forward, inside the firebox, by 40 mm and are cut obliquely, comparing with the rows below. In addition, the walls of the hob and chimney channels continue to rise.
	14th row. A shelf begins to form above the fireplace insert. For this, the bricks placed in this row are pushed forward and to the side by 30 mm. It will turn out, as it were, a row of bricks hanging over the firebox. The row will require 19 bricks.
	The 15th row is laid out with 20½ bricks. The mantel continues to be laid out on it by pushing a row of bricks forward by 30 mm. There is a completion of the removal of the walls of the cooking chamber.
	The 16th row consists of 15 ½ bricks. After they have been laid, the front part of the hob “ceiling” is reinforced with an installed steel corner measuring 50 × 50 × 5 × 1020 mm, and the middle and rear part of the “ceiling” of the chamber is covered with steel strips 50 × 5 × 920 mm. All metal elements will become the basis for covering the chamber with bricks. The rest of the bricks are laid according to the scheme.
	17th row. A complete overlap of the cooking chamber is carried out using 26 bricks. Only two chimney openings are left.
	18th row. The second continuous row is being laid, which consists of 30 bricks.
	The 19th row is laid out with 19 ½ bricks. At this stage, the upper gas outlet channels and cleaning chambers are formed, on which the doors are installed. The lintel between the chimney and vertical duct is shifted 30 mm to the left. This cuts off the bottom and top left side of the brick.
	20th row. The lintel, as in the 19th row, is shifted to the left by another 30 mm, and the lintel brick is also cut obliquely. This row will require 22½ bricks.
	21st row. The doors of the cleaning chambers installed on top of the brewing niche overlap, and the door is installed on another cleaning channel, above the fireplace insert. The chimney opening is narrowed by another 30 mm. The main chimney channel is closed to the size of ¾ of a brick, and a “shelf” is formed inside the channel. A row will require 22½ bricks.
	22nd row. In the place where the “shelf” is formed, a place is prepared for the cleaning door at the base of the vertical channel. The lintel between the two ducts located above the fireplace is also shifted to the left by 30 mm. After the row is folded, a door is installed on the channel. For a row, you need to prepare 22 bricks.
	The 23rd row is laid out with 23 bricks. The bridge between the channels is still shifted to the left. The cleaning door over the fireplace is overlapped with a brick.
	24th row. A place is being prepared for the installation of the chimney valve. To do this, special grooves are cut in the bricks framing the chimney hole. Then, on the clay mortar, the valve structure is installed, having a size of 130 × 250 mm. For the laying of this row, 22 bricks are required.
	25th row. At the base of the chimney channel, a shelf is arranged, a place is being prepared for installing another valve - for the cooking chamber. Then, also on the clay mortar, the valve itself is mounted with a size of 130 × 250 mm. A row will require 24 bricks.
	A final diagram showing the configuration of brickwork from rows 25 to 33.
	26th row. At this stage, the holes of the chimney vertical channels are combined in pairs. The opening of the chimney channel, by cutting the upper edge of the brick at 45 degrees, is shifted to the center. A place is being prepared for installing the cleaning chamber door for the main vertical channel. The main flue duct is connected to the system of all flue gas outlets of the furnace. After the row is laid out, a door is installed to clean the chimney. For a row, you need to prepare 21 bricks.
	27th row. Continuation of the displacement of the chimney channel to the center of the structure. In this row, the middle brick, located on the opposite side of the main chimney channel, is cut obliquely, and the two bricks shifted onto the channel are cut at an angle of 45 degrees from below. The row will need 21 bricks.
	28th row. The chimneys of the fireplace and stove are combined, and the fireplace channel continues to move towards the center. For a row, 20 bricks are used.
	29th row. The design of the stove is completely overlapped, with the exception of the chimney opening, which continues to move towards the center. The brickwork moves 25 mm beyond the kiln perimeter. For masonry, 34 ½ bricks are required.
	30th row. This row, like the previous one, is shifted by 25 mm, but already in relation to the underlying bricks. The size of the chimney is reduced to 130 × 260 mm. The row will require 36 bricks.
	31st row. The perimeter of the structure returns to the basic size of the furnace - this is achieved by shifting the brick in depth by 50 mm. Laying out the row, in it, to install the valve on the chimney hole, special cutouts are arranged in the bricks surrounding it. Then, the valve itself is mounted in this groove, having a size of 130 × 250 mm. The row will need 27 bricks.
	32nd row. The first row is formed, that is, the base of the overhead chimney. This will require 5 bricks.
	The 33rd row of the furnace or the second row of pipe masonry. It also requires 5 bricks. Well, above the pipe design itself is already laid out.

These diagrams show sections of the furnace.

Sections - scheme 1

The first shows the direction of the smoke from the combustion chamber of the furnace along the chimney ducts towards the chimney.

The first diagram clearly shows how the valves are installed on the vertical channels.

Section - scheme 2

The second picture shows the removal of smoke from the fireplace insert into the main chimney with open dampers.

Heating and cooking "Swedish" oven

This Swedish model is even more compact than the previous one, since it does not have a fireplace function. This means that its scheme is simpler, since there is no chimney channel from the fireplace insert.

Compact heating and cooking "Swedish"

The size of this structure is 1020 × 885 × 2030 mm, and the power is 2750 kcal / h, which is enough for heating 30 m². It can be seen that the characteristic is slightly lower than that of the model considered earlier. Nevertheless, such a stove is quite capable of heating two adjacent rooms.

This stove has a convenient arrangement of the main elements, thanks to which it can be positioned in the wall between two rooms. For example, the furnace section with the hob and oven unfolds into the kitchen, and the large heated surface of the rear wall of the stove turns into the living area. By arranging the structure in this way, that is, in the thickness of the wall, you can additionally gain space, so the stove will look more compact.

It should be noted that this project was drawn up in compliance with certain conditions, having learned about which, many will make a choice in favor of just such a design.

The stove was originally designed to heat a country house built of silicate blocks and measuring 4000 × 7000 mm.
This heater is designed to use firewood, but it is quite possible to use another type of fuel.
In this design, only the internal lining of the furnace and adjacent objects is provided. Since the stove will be built from high-quality materials, no external wall decoration is planned. Refractory bricks are hidden inside the structure so that they do not interfere with the harmonious facade appearance.
The walls of this model must be thick, and laying bricks on the side (on spoons) is not allowed.
A drying chamber must be mandatory in this model.

The result of this development, taking into account the specified criteria, was the furnace, the order of which will be discussed below.

Silicate block prices

silicate blocks

Building materials

First, you need to decide what materials and in what quantity will be required for its construction.

Table of the required materials for the construction of a heating and cooking "Swedish":

Material name	Size (mm)	Quantity (pcs.)
Red brick (excluding pipe height)	250 × 120 × 60	551
Refractory fireclay brick Ш-8	250 × 124 × 65	31
Blower door	140 × 250	1
Combustion chamber door	210 × 250	1
Cleaning chamber door	140 × 140	3
Oven	450 × 250 × 290	1
Two-burner cast iron stove	410 × 710	1
Grate	200 × 300	1
Chimney damper	130 × 250	1
Steam exhaust valve	130 × 130	1
Steel corner	45 × 45 × 5 × 1020	1
Steel strip	45 × 45 × 5 × 700	1
Steel strip	45 × 45 × 5 × 905	5
Steel strip	50 × 5 × 650	2
Dryer shelf	190 × 340	1
Drying chambers overlap sheet	800 × 905	1
Pre-furnace metal sheet	500 × 700	1
Asbestos sheet or rope for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.	5 mm thick	1

The order of the heating and cooking stove - "Swedish"

Scheme - ordering	Brief description of the performed operation
	The first row, consisting of 28 red bricks, is traditionally laid out in a solid plane. It is very important to maintain the ideal horizontal masonry and right angles of the base.
	The second row is also solid, but the configuration of the brickwork differs from the lower one, since the seams between the bricks of the first row must be overlapped by the solid surface of the second brick (bandage). This row will require 28½ red bricks.
	Third row. The blowing chamber and the bottom heating chamber, as well as vertical channels, begin to form. On the same row, three doors are installed for the cleaning chambers, as well as for the blower. In the internal structure of the row, two solid bricks and two three-quarter bricks are installed on the edge. In addition, a quarter of fireclay bricks are installed at the entrance to the first chimney. For the row, 19 red and ¼ fireclay bricks are used.
	In the fourth row, all the cameras mentioned above continue to form. As in the second and third row, and in the fourth, the vertical channels are combined. For a row, 14½ red and ½ fireclay bricks should be prepared.
	Fifth row. At this stage, all doors installed at the entrances to channels and chambers are closed. The bottom of the combustion chamber is laid out with fireclay bricks. In the middle opening of the bottom part of the furnace, a step is cut out in the refractory bricks, on which the grate will be laid. The row uses 16 red and 8 refractory bricks.
	Sixth row. A furnace door is installed, which is temporarily supported by free bricks, as well as an oven box wrapped in asbestos. The inner walls of the fuel chamber and the base for the oven are laid out of fireclay bricks. It should be borne in mind that the wall of refractory bricks, erected between the fuel chamber and the oven, must be a quarter of a brick. On the same row, the second and third vertical channels are separated from each other. For the row, 13 red and 6½ fireclay bricks are used.
	This illustration shows the same sixth row - installing the oven. When mounting it, we must not forget about the thermal gap for the expansion of the metal when it heats up - it can be provided by a layer of asbestos. The box can be wrapped with asbestos rope or overlaid with cut-to-size sheets.
	Seventh row. Chambers continue to form from two walls - an inner fire-resistant one and an outer one of red brick, laid flat. The row will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks.
	Eighth row. At this stage, the first chimney is closed. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme using 13 red and 5 fireclay bricks.
	Ninth row. The furnace door is closed, and the rest of the masonry is being carried out according to the plan. For the row, 13½ red and 5 fireclay bricks are used.
	Tenth row. The oven is covered with brickwork. The upper row of the wall between the firebox and the oven is not laid out. In the inner walls, lined with fireclay bricks, framing the upper space, cutouts of 10 mm are made for mounting the hob. A row will require 15 red and 4½ fireclay bricks.
	Further, on the same row, a cooking stove is laid. Under it, you should also make a gasket of asbestos rope. The slab should be in the same plane with the walls of the structure. On the front wall, in front of the hob, a metal corner is laid, which will protect the edge of the brick from chips and fasten the top row.
	11th row. The walls of the cooking chamber begin to form. The gap between the slab and the wall of the structure on the right side is laid with a brick. This row will require 16½ red bricks.
	12th row - the masonry is carried out according to the scheme, and 15 red bricks are used for it.
	The 13th and 14th rows are laid out of red brick according to the scheme indicated in the order, taking into account the masonry with a bandage. For work you will need: for the 13th row -15½, and for the 14th row 14½ bricks.
	The 15th and 16th rows are also laid in the same pattern. The 15th row needs 15½ and the 16th row 14½ red bricks.
	16th row. After the row is withdrawn, the cooking chamber is overlapped by three metal corners (45 × 45 × 905 mm), which are mounted in the middle and end of the chamber, and its edge is reinforced with a corner having dimensions of 45 × 45 × 700 mm. In the middle of the opening, two corners are laid, vertically arranged shelves to each other. Thus, a reliable basis is obtained for covering the chamber with a brick.
	The 17th row is laid out with 25½ bricks. It blocks the camera space. At the same time, a hole for the hood from the cooking chamber is formed in the surface, the size of which is half a brick. In addition to him, the walls of the channels located in the rear of the furnace are laid out.
	The 18th row fits in solid. Only the chimney and exhaust duct remain open. In the next step, a corner is mounted on the front edge of the floor, measuring 45 × 45 × 905 mm. The overlap, reinforced on both sides, will reliably hold two rows of brickwork. This row will require 25 red bricks.
	19th row. At this stage, two drying chambers are formed - a large and a small one, as well as a ventilation channel that will remove steam from the cooking chamber. To lay this row, you need to prepare 16 red bricks.
	Row 20 is laid out according to a pattern of 16 red bricks.
	The 21st and 22nd rows also have a similar configuration, in a bandage. Row 21 uses 16½ and row 22 uses 16 red bricks. On the 22nd row, the small drying chamber is overlapped in the front part by a metal plate 190 × 340 mm.
	23rd row. The walls of the drying chambers and flue ducts continue to form. A cutout is made above the ventilation channel in the brick - a seat for a valve that will regulate the temperature of the cooking chamber. Then, a valve with a size of 140 × 140 mm is installed in the prepared cut-out. To work, you need 17 red bricks.
	24th row. The work proceeds according to the scheme - the ventilation valve is closed, the first and second chimney channels are combined. For laying this row, 15½ bricks must be prepared.
	25th row. At this stage, the ventilation duct and three vertical chimney ducts are combined into one. The row requires 15½ red bricks.
	The 26th row is laid according to the pattern of 16½ red bricks.
	Further, on the 26th row, a basis is made for the subsequent overlap of the drying chamber. For this, a metal corner with a size of 45 × 45 × 905 and two steel strips 50 × 5 × 650 mm are used. The corner is mounted on the edge of the drying chambers and creates a rigid base for covering them with a metal sheet and a brick row.
	Then, on top of the installed bridges, a metal sheet with a size of 800 × 905 mm is laid, which covers the entire surface of the furnace section, leaving only the third vertical chimney channel free.
	27th row. In this row, the metal sheet is covered with solid brickwork, which protrudes 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the furnace. The chimney opening remains free in the left corner. For the overlap, 32 red bricks are required.
	The 28th is the second row of complete overlap of the drying chambers with an opening for the chimney. It fits with a protrusion of 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the previous row. You will need 37 red bricks to lay it.
	The 29th row consists of 26½ red bricks, which are laid 50 mm from the previous row to the center. That is, it turns out a rectangle of the same size around the perimeter as the entire main structure of the furnace.
	The 30th row of the design is the first row of a top-mounted chimney. It consists of 5 red bricks. In the upper part of this row, cutouts are made with a depth of 10 mm - this will be a seat for the main chimney damper, having a size of 250 × 130 mm. When the place is ready, the valve structure is mounted on the clay mortar.
	31st row - the second row of the pipe overlaps the installed valve. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Next, the chimney is laid up.

The diagram below shows the flow of heated air through the vertical chimney ducts, with the help of which the entire brick structure, including the oven, is heated.

The need for warmth and comfort in a private house arises already in the middle of autumn, and it is good if central heating is provided to the house. Those who have to independently heat their home will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. Modern boilers or electric fireplaces can solve the problem today, but they will not create that special unique atmosphere of living fire in the stove, accompanied by the crackling of firewood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the question arises for you: "How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?" In this article, we will look at the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account the diagrams and all the materials and tools necessary during the laying process. You just have to correctly repeat all the described processes, and you will become the owner of a solid home stove that will warm you on cold winter evenings.

It is very easy to make a brick oven if you have a clear idea of which type of oven will ideally fit into the conditions of your building. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of private houses, and already starting from the information received, make the right choice. So, the types of ovens in relation to the type of buildings.

Stove in a wooden house. A stove of this type needs a very solid base. It is better to provide for the presence of a furnace even at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for furnace equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on partial dismantling of the floors and subsequent finishing work. There is no other way out. The best option for a wooden house would be a compact stove made of bricks of a heating and cooking type of medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or an option with a bread maker.
Classic Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large-sized stove with the functions of cooking, heating water, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a lounger, is very convenient, but will not fit into a small house, and also requires the creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.
Stove in a country house. An ideal option for a country house would be a stove with a hob and a heating water tank.
Stove in a cottage or in the country. A cottage and a summer residence imply a visit only during a certain season or on weekends, which means that in such a structure it will be sufficient to install a small brick oven with a hob. In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at the stove structure, folded according to the summer version, when the heated air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.
Home stove with a bath. If a bathhouse is attached to your house, it is quite acceptable to build a brick heater with a built-in boiler for heating living quarters.
Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or be very impressive, but are equally used only for cooking, therefore, they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecue grills, barbecue grills, cast-iron cauldrons, etc.

BBQ hob with oven

This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. You can move on.

Stove-maker's advice. When deciding on the choice of the size of the furnace structure, first of all, pay attention to such points as comfort of use and fire safety!

Stage 2. Building material: choice

When choosing a brick, you need to consider how resistant it will be to the effects of high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of the brick as a building material will determine the life of the kiln. It is important!

Choosing a brick

Any brick is marked. One of them stands for density. For stoves, it is optimal to purchase bricks with markings from 75 to 250, while it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the more slowly the stove will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated dense brick stove will slowly cool down, releasing its soft heat into the atmosphere.

If you plan to build a stove in a bath, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but above M100) so that it does not take a lot of time to kindle. And for appliances intended for heating living quarters and preparing meals, it is worth purchasing a denser brick.

It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of the quality of the brick. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase a product with chemical impurities hazardous to health.

The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney, which is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which deforms the material during crystallization. The best indicators of frost resistance are for hollow facing bricks, while the inside of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in the Novgorod region, the city of Borovichi.

It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. There are few pores in these products, they withstand temperature changes well, the masonry does not crack even after a long downtime of the oven. Silicate products, pressed, cast by slip casting, raw raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

Fireclay bricks made in accordance with GOST can withstand up to 1350 degrees. Such a brick can be used to build the entire furnace or use it only for lining the inner working surfaces of the furnace. For the masonry of the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark inclusions, fireclay bricks Sh22 - Sh45 are suitable for the fire dome. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, because fireclay bricks are operated only at a moisture content of less than 60%. In the bath, it is better to use clinker brick or ceramic refractory.

Fireclay brick prices

fireclay brick

How to check the quality of bricks:

if the product is dropped on the floor, it will split into large pieces. If the brick has crumbled, discard the batch;
if you touch a brick, it does not get dusty;
if a quality product is hit with a hammer, there will be a clear ringing continuous sound;
the edges of a good brick are even, the color is rich and even.

GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. Download file

GOST 8691-73. REFRACTORY PRODUCTS GENERAL PURPOSE. FORM AND SIZES. Download file

Choosing a mortar

The choice of mortar is an important point. If the solution is incorrect, the stove will smoke, and cracks may appear on the surface of the structure very soon.

Most often, the masonry mortar is prepared from fine-grained sifted river sand (grains of sand with a maximum of 1.5 mm) and clay, which must be soaked for several hours before mixing. The soaked clay is rubbed through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry seam should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.

Clay mortar - preparation

The proportions for the clay mortar depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make the mortar too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to do several test mixing of the solutions in order to determine the required proportions of sand and clay, while it is important to thoroughly stir the sand, adding it in several stages.

A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, wetting it and kneading it well, rolling a ball, and then putting and squeezing it between two smooth boards. If the ball was squeezed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying the furnace. Additional quality control - drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. A good quality dried ball will not wrinkle when pressed.

How much water to pour? We again do test mixes and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We draw with a trowel over the mixed solution and look at the trail:

if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
if it swam almost instantly, there is an excess of moisture;
if the mark is clear and the edges are even, then the mortar is suitable for laying the stove.

Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped in a solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, streaky streaks remain on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, and in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly translucent, and the streaks are patterned.

Note! It is advisable to use soft water to mix the masonry mixture. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees or more, will reduce the strength of the mortar.

The last suitability test is carried out by spreading a layer of 3 mm on a bed of bricks. The second brick is glued to the first one, tapped with a mallet and wait up to 5-10 minutes. Within the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the oven is guaranteed to last for a hundred years.

Note! For laying the firebox, either chamotte sand or a mixture of equal proportions of chamotte and quartz sand is added to the solution.

Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying a furnace

Clay mortar is not used for laying the foundation and fluffing the chimney. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime dough - from 9 to 16 parts).

Important! If you think that you will not be able to cope with the preparation, testing and mixing of the clay solution, purchase ready-made oven mixes, for example, Terracotta (20 kg 306 rubles). For red bricks, a mixture with red clay is suitable, and gray refractory mixtures are ideal for both red and fireclay bricks. Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.

Prices for cement M600

cement М600

Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the number of bricks for masonry

At the second stage, it is necessary to carry out the optimal calculation of the size of the brick oven. Having established the final size of the furnace structure, you can set the required amount of bricks. Single red solid brick has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.

Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox is laid out in almost all furnaces, are manufactured and marked in accordance with GOST 8691-73. See table for size information.

For one square meter of masonry in half a brick you will need:

excluding the mortar joint - 61 bricks;
taking into account mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.

Accordingly, for two meters of square brickwork, 122 or 113 full-bodied red bricks will be needed, and the estimated amount of mortar used will be 0.022 m3.

Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the furnace wall thickness is not 120, but already 250 mm, then 128 or 115 bricks will be used for each square meter, respectively, excluding and taking into account mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase up to 0.027 m3.

How is a simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire furnace made:

the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
the resulting value is multiplied by the number of oven rows;
the found number is multiplied by 0.8 (for heating devices) or 0.65 (for devices with a heating panel).

For example, let's calculate the number of bricks per oven with dimensions of 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, there will be 24.5 pieces in the first row. We multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pieces. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. = 477.75 pcs., Round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.

The number of bricks per pipe is calculated separately. Its height and design are taken in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 ("Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning") and SNiP 2.09.03-85 ("Chimneys"), which will be detailed below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:

We consider: 4x56 = 224 pcs. Add another 56 bricks to the otter, butcher and fluff and multiply the result by 10%. It remains only to add up the number of bricks for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.

You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by drawing up or taking into work an already existing ordering diagram, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the furnace, recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors, are given.

This information can be used in practice, forming an individual plan for the costs of brick material.

It is worth noting: if you want to ultimately get a perfect brick stove that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the selection of the stove equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.

Stage 4. Choosing a stove location

So, after you have decided on the type of stove, determined the area of the stove structure, and also selected the building material and mortar, proceed to choosing a place for installing the stove.

Usually, the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against the wall, which saves precious meters of living space.

The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, at the same time being in several adjacent rooms at the same time with different faces, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.

It is better to build a sauna stove near the door to the steam room. This will ensure the proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow the air masses to circulate effectively (provided that the exhaust and supply air vents are correctly located).

However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the stove, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, it is worth adhering to the following distances:

Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of works

Stone and furnace work. Downloads pdf

Stage 5. Foundation

A stove made of bricks has a high specific gravity, therefore, the structure cannot be installed without a reliable foundation.

The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, pile, columnar, lined with blocks, pile-screw.

Regardless of the type, the foundation of the stove should not be tied to the foundation of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for the house, starting from the type of soil.

Gravel-sandy soil allows you to equip a shallow foundation.
If the soil is clayey or sedimentary, it is better to fill the foundation on a crushed stone pad, while deepening it to the level of freezing.
In permafrost zones, a pile-screw foundation is equipped, with special attention paid to the thermal insulation of the piles.
On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have a minimum thickness or be absent altogether.
Filled soil is not suitable for installing a brick oven.

Consider a method of arranging solid bases for a brick oven.

Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We take the width and shape based on the dimensions of the furnace and add 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Immediately pay attention to the location of the ceiling beams - a chimney pipe will have to pass between them, and taking into account the deviations regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to make a drainage (drainage) from the foundation of the furnace in order to reduce moisture and soil heaving.

Step 2. We ram the bottom of the pit and level it horizontally as much as possible. We fill in a ten-centimeter layer of fine broken brick, rubble stone or rubble. We repeat the ramming procedure.

Step 3. We prepare a slurry (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill the embankment with it.

to combine ten-centimeter layers of crushed stone backfill with cement filling. This option is acceptable for bases of shallow depth, namely up to 50 cm;
install the reinforcement cage and fill it with concrete. The frame is knitted with a wire made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm. The size of the cells is 10x10 cm. A formwork is installed in the pit, the frame must be 5 cm away from its walls and bottom, for which plastic clamps or pieces of brick are used. Concrete is poured inside, the mixture is compacted with a deep vibrator or a metal bar during the pouring process. The upper pouring point should be 15 cm below the level of the finished floor;
pour a reinforced concrete slab, on top of which lay the foundation walls of silicate or red brick, and fill the inside with concrete with backfill (the loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).

The first and third versions of the bases are completed with a layer of cement mortar. The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.

Further work is carried out after complete drying of the solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation.

Step 5. We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fix it with mastic (for roofing we use tar, for roofing material - bituminous).

Step 6... We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We put whole bricks at the edges, halves inside. The brick base should be 5-7 cm of the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the oven itself.

We do not use cement to bond the bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontalness, we put another layer of waterproofing, then we lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base, ideally, should be exactly level with the finished floor or rise above it by 3-4 cm.

Important note! Do not use bricks for construction that have been lying on the street all winter and have been repeatedly wet and freezing. Such products are capable of rapidly deteriorating, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.

We fill the space between the foundation of the furnace and the house with river sand.

Stage 6. Construction of a stove-heater with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

This project can be implemented both in a separate bathhouse and in a steam room attached to a residential building. The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but it has a hob on which it is easy to heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the stove cools down very slowly, therefore, warm water will be available even the morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees for more than a day. The stove will provide heating for a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters up to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.

The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and the fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold about 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are heated evenly, so that the steam in the bath is dry and quite thick and hot.

The height of the oven will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay / fill it in advance.

During the construction of the stove (the chimney is not taken into account), the following will be used:

269 red bricks;
63 refractory bricks ША-8;
cast iron furnace door with dimensions 0.21x0.25 m;
Stove door - example
blower door 0.14x0.25 m;
two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
grate 0.38x0.25 m;
two-burner hob made of cast iron 0.51x0.34 m;
oven for laying stones with dimensions of 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
one valve for the "summer" mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;
one chimney valve, size 0.13x0.25 m;
pre-furnace steel sheet with a size of at least 50x70 cm.

the key in masonry is the construction joint. It should be uniform in each row, carefully missed. Only in this way will you get the solidity of the furnace structure, and exclude smoke leakage from the fuel chamber. Follow the process very carefully;
before laying a brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container of water and immerse the bricks in water for 5 to 10 minutes. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick to be at the highest level in the future. The wet brick after drying excludes the occurrence of cracks in the finished furnace structure. We keep the bricks in water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
before laying each subsequent row, use a building level and a plumb line - the use of these tools in the workflow is a guarantee that the structure will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.

We lay out the first row of red brick. In total, you will need 24 intact and one brick sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, with a meter level, check the horizontality along the sides and axes of the masonry. Use a tape measure to check the squareness and alignment. We adjust the bricks with a rubber hammer. We make the seams no more than five millimeters.

The second row does not differ from the first in either the quantity of brick or its quality. One has only to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling in the middle.

For the third row, take twenty red bricks and the ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks intact, four more we cut with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).

Before cutting, we wet the brick and fix it securely. We observe safety precautions !!!

Brick cutting with a grinder - photo

Video - How to cut a brick

Video - Sawing oven brick with a grinder

We are not in a hurry to apply the solution, first we spread the entire row dry! Bricks must not be laid with the chipped (cut) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate the inner surfaces of channels and furnaces with clay.

If the brick was laid unsuccessfully, we remove it, clean it of the mortar, soak it again, apply a new mortar with a trowel, and then re-adjust it.

In the same row we fix the door, for this we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with an asbestos cord, cover it with a solution, insert and twist a steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, the number of rods for twisting from 3 to 4 ) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and pass the resulting wire strands between the rows of bricks.

Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks

Installing the oven door - photo

Video - How to attach the wire to the door

Video - How to fix the furnace door of the blower

The mud and the weight of the bricks will hold the door frame securely.

Another way to install the door is using metal strips or plates extended at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in the masonry joints. If the plates are too thick, it is better to hew out grooves on the bricks.

The accuracy of the installation of the door is checked with a plumb line and level.

Advice. To make the cleanout door fit more accurately and accurately, remove the rectangular chamfer from the bricks that will be located around the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the opening for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.

Don't worry if you only manage to lay out three rows in a day. Soaking, trimming, fitting and laying takes time, patience and neatness.

In the fourth row, we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. The entire row will require 16 bricks. For the channel, we immediately put a door 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, just with a solution, since in this place the temperature will be low, and the thermal expansion of the metal is minimal.

For the fifth row, take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the "lock" method. Lay the bricks with the chipped side up. We cut two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.

Row 6

In the sixth row, six and a half fireclay bricks and 12 red bricks will be used. It is shown in yellow on the diagram. Lay out the base of the fuel chamber from the fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The opening for the grating should be 5-7 mm larger than it, so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. The space between the grate and the bricks (chamfers) is covered with sand.

Experienced stove-makers advise to lay the grate with a slight, up to three centimeters, incline towards the stove door.

We block the cleaning door with one brick.

In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. We cut the brick, which is placed in the back of the firebox, obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.

We install the door using an asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.

We also place a welded oven made of steel with a thickness of 8 mm. The back of the cabinet will be located in the fuel chamber. The door of the cabinet is slightly less than its height, that is, it is raised, due to which the bath stones will not fall to the floor.

We carry out the laying according to the schemes-orders. For work, we take seven red and fireclay bricks.

For the ninth row, you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.

In this row, using the "lock" method already discussed above, we block the fire door. The entire row will take 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and 1 more fireclay hewn with a wedge.

We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. We close the door and the back of the oven. We lay bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertically located channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.

Take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We make the shrinkage, as shown in the diagram, and we also make a recess for the hob, taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We put the hob 51x34 cm, we do not use the solution.

We install the valve in the near vertical channel. To install a metal element, we make slots in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.

The valve in the furnace - photo

For work, we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.

We begin to form a decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. We no longer use chamotte.

We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.

We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.

We block the far channel and the central one. We cut off the two bricks above the niche obliquely to make the castle floor. We also obliquely grind the brick over the hob. We put the wedge brick in the castle. Consumption per row - 18 pcs.

We shut off the oven completely, except for the near channel. In this channel we make cuts to install a 13x25 cm gate valve. We cut another brick obliquely above the slab. Consumption - 16 pcs.

Of 17 and a half bricks, we make a second overlap, leaving only a 13x13 cm smoke channel.

From four bricks we form the base of the chimney pipe.

With the bandaging we put the second row of the pipe.

Video - Description of the construction of the furnace

The inner surfaces of the stove should be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the laying process, the protruding clay must be cleaned or scraped off.

How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with open valves and doors for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put quite a bit of fuel in the firebox to warm up the walls a little. The next day we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. In this case, we do not close the doors. When there are no wet traces on the walls and no condensation on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real firebox.

Video - Do-it-yourself stove in the bath

Video - Drying the oven

After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft can be checked in it by opening the latches, then holding the burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates inside the furnace, then there is a draft.

The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More precisely, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that raw pipes will have a slightly weaker draft.

It is recommended to whitewash the brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime, so that leaks of furnace gases become immediately noticeable. The defective pipe is repaired immediately. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and for masonry, a cement, cement-lime or simply lime mortar is used, while the brick is selected of the highest quality, without chips, cracks, or other defects.

Do not forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the bathhouse in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, immediately seal them with clay mortar, applying and leveling it with a trowel.

Video - How to fold the oven with your own hands

Video - Laying the first row of bricks

Heating a house in winter with stove heating is suitable for those who have a country house. This heating method is not very suitable for apartments. Unfortunately, it will be quite difficult to fold the stove with your own hands, but after carefully studying the layouts of brick stoves, it is possible. If you want to save your time, it is better to turn to a professional in this business - a stove-maker. He will tell you what kind of masonry is suitable in a particular case.

The main types and device of brick ovens

1. Gate valve;
2. Cast iron plate;
3. Clean door;
4. Oven;
5. Firebox door;
6. Blower door.

There are two main types of brick ovens:

Heating stoves. The scheme of the brickwork of the heating stove is very simple, which is why the installation does not take much time. They are intended only for heating the room.
The most widespread and demanded type of furnaces is heating and cooking. They allow you to both heat the house and cook food.

There are many schemes for brickwork stoves. The main structural elements of any furnace are:

Toplivnik- where the fuel used to heat the house is loaded. The dimensions of the firebox depend on the type of fuel used. For its laying, only refractory bricks are used, since it is in direct contact with fire.
Chimney- designed to remove smoke and gases that are formed during the combustion process. Its design should not have a lot of bends, if possible, it is better to make it completely vertical. The fewer bends, the better the room heats up.
Ash pan or blower chamber Is also one of the important parts of the furnace design. Ash accumulates in the ash pan - a product of burning wood and coal. Air enters the firebox through the blower, as a result of which the draft improves, and therefore the quality of heating the dwelling. The ash pan chamber is located under the firebox and has a separate door for easy ash cleaning.

The design of a heating and cooking stove is characterized by the presence of a hob or even an oven.

Sauna stove: features of masonry

Brick sauna stoves are usually drawn up for specific cases. The dimensions of such ovens directly depend on the dimensions of the room in which they will be installed.

A distinctive feature of the design of the sauna stove is the presence of a heater. This is a special compartment in the oven, with a lid through which water is supplied and stones are laid. The order of laying stoves with your own hands should be agreed with a professional, because for sauna stoves, safety, first of all

1 - brick oven on a separate foundation,
2 - firebox, 3 - boiler with water, 4 - backfill from boulders (heater), 5 - latch, 6 - door for giving, 7 - shelves, 8 - leaking wooden floor (plank, log) on waterproof beams.

When choosing a project, it is necessary to take into account some features in the device of sauna stoves.:

A firebox in a sauna stove is definitely needed in a large size. The blower door and it itself must be large in order to ensure a good flow of air into the firebox.
The grates should be laid along the blower channel for better traction. But due to the problematic nature of purchasing long grates, most often you have to buy small grates and lay them across.
If flammable structures in the bathhouse are not protected by refractory materials, the distance from them to the stove should be more than 30 cm.
If the stove is located above the firebox, the height of the stove should be at least 55 cm. This is necessary for better heating of the stones.
Before laying a brick bath stove on a mortar, it is better to lay out the rows first dry. And only after leveling them, use a masonry mixture.
The horizontality and verticality of the masonry can be checked with a level. If there are minimal deviations in the masonry, they need to be corrected.
All doors must be properly secured. For this, during installation, steel wire is used, which is attached to specially made recesses in the bricks.
Where the flue pipe passes through the ceiling or wall, there must be a fireproof insulation.
When mixing the masonry mixture, only high-quality clay and fine sand are used.

Square oven with bottom heating

A distinctive feature of the design of a square furnace with a bottom heating is that the height of the fuel compartment is relatively high. On both sides of the firebox, two cavities are symmetrically located for exhausting gases into chambers located on the side, in the outer walls of the stove. From these chambers, gases enter the risers and then rise upward, where the upper dome is formed from the cavities, consisting of three U-shaped cavities. These cameras are located parallel to each other.

In the upper section of the rear and middle cavities, heated air is retained, and the cooled fuel combustion products are removed through special openings into the cavity, which is connected to the chimney. Then they are taken out into the street.

Any kind of coal and wood can be used to heat the room with the stove of this device. But, when using coal and anthracite, the walls of the furnace must be laid from fire-resistant bricks.

The scheme of laying a furnace with a bottom heating consists of 3 hoods: an upper section and 2 large cavities.

Masonry and design features of the furnace V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo

Furnace designed by V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo.

A feature of the VE Grum-Grzhimailo furnace is that it has the shape of a cylinder and is enclosed in a steel case. There is no gas turnover in it. The movement of gases in such a furnace occurs under the influence of gravity, and not with the help of traction. Heavy cold gases go down, and heated light ones go up.

The design of this oven consists of two parts.:

The upper chamber, in which there is no smoke circulation. It looks like an upside-down glass or cap. Therefore, these furnaces are called channelless and bell-type.
The lower section is a firebox, in the ceiling of which there is a hole (hailo) for the outlet of smoke and gases to the upper section.

The heated flue gases do not move from the high to the chimney, they reach the ceiling, and after they have cooled down, they go down to the base of the firebox. From there, they will enter the chimney and be discharged outside.

The brickwork of this oven with your own hands is quite simple. The advantage of the VE Grum-Grzhimailo furnace is that it cools down for a long time and uses 80% of the heat generated by the fuel during combustion.

For a furnace designed by V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo, anthracite and hard coal are most suitable as fuel. When using wood fuel, the gaps between the buttresses are clogged with soot. Cleaning the soot is a rather complicated process, because it is difficult to reach all the cracks through the cleaning doors.

Bunk oven for home: masonry and features

Layout diagram of a bunk oven for a home. Typical.

A bunk oven is essentially two identical ovens, one above the other. To facilitate the construction and save materials, layouts with empty chambers are made between the ovens. The masonry, filling the gap between the two structures, serves as the basis for the top.

The chimney pipe of the stove, which is located at the bottom, passes through the upper one, so its heating area is slightly smaller. The chimney of the upper stove is brought out separately. Laying a bunk oven is quite simple to perform. Doors for cleaning the furnaces from soot are located: in the back - in the lower, and in the side wall - in the upper structure. It is best to use anthracite or hard coal as fuel.

When overlapping the upper part of empty chambers, a reinforced concrete slab is often used. Due to this, the level of strength and stability of the structure increases. Bricklaying for the stove must be done very carefully. Indeed, in the event of a malfunction, the repair will be difficult.

The bunk stove is ideal for a two-story country house. For its construction, you can use furnace schemes, which are made in the form of a square or rectangle.
Video instruction for laying a bunk oven

What is better to use for masonry: materials and tools

Tools for laying stoves: a - mrlotok-pick;
b - oven hammer; c - rule; g - wooden shovel;
d - building level; e - wet brush; g - pliers;
h - cycle; and - stukalets; k - scribe; l - rasp;
m - square; n - plumb line; o - sledgehammer; p - chisel;
p - trowel; c - jointing

For laying furnaces, in most cases, fire-resistant fireclay bricks are used. Its main advantage over the rest of the brick is that, although it heats up for a long time, it keeps heat for a very long time. This allows the room to warm up evenly and maintains a constant temperature in it.

When, the main thing is to pay attention to the quality of the material. If the brick is burnt too much, its refractoriness and quality will decrease. This brick is best used for laying out the base of the oven. It is not very suitable for a firebox, since heat exchange will be disrupted.

But, fireclay bricks are best suited for laying out parts that are in direct contact with fire. Ceramic brick is suitable as a facing material.

Silicate bricks cannot be used for laying the structure. It does not stick to the solution, and absorbs moisture under heat loads.

Bricklaying technology is not complicated. Good enough to be able to fold the stove yourself, or ask for help from a specialist.

The clay, brick and sand used for masonry must be of very high quality. After all, a stove is a device that is created for many years, and its use should not be flammable.

Tools that will be needed for laying a brick structure:

A trowel for laying out mortar.
Pickaxe hammer, for leveling and splitting bricks if needed.
Shovel for mixing mortar.
Grooves for smoothing convex and concave seams.
Ordering tool, to check the evenness of laying out the rows of bricks.

Basic principles of laying brick structures:

The bricks must be laid only one at a time. For the inexperienced, it is better to lay out the row without mortar and only then use the mixture.
Each brick is thoroughly cleaned of dust and chips with a brush.
For better adhesion of the solution, the ceramic brick is immersed in water for a short time.
Fireclay bricks should not be wetted with water under any circumstances!
After laying, the brick cannot be moved and tapped, therefore it must be laid in one confident movement.
If it was not possible to lay the brick right away, then it is removed and the solution is cleaned.
The solution that has been cleaned off can no longer be used.

Now more and more people make their choice in favor of stoves in their homes. This is due, first of all, to the efficiency of this heating method. It is in the pursuit of fuel economy and better heat transfer that all new designs of stoves are being created. The most important thing is to carefully study and choose a scheme that is suitable for a particular home.

The disadvantage of the furnace is the need to constantly maintain combustion or smoldering in the furnace. But, by using quality materials and choosing the right circuit that is suitable for the home, the need for constant fuel injection is greatly reduced. Another disadvantage is the inability to use the stove in the summer for cooking.