Heated towel rail in the bathroom where to install. Replacement and installation of towel rails in the bathroom with their own hands. Lower connection of the towel rail

In this step-by-step workshop, you will learn how to install a lassel heated towel rail with lower connection. We carry out the installation and wiring of the pipes to the riser, replenish the plumbing according to regulatory standards.

Step 1: Wall Marking and Stroke

One of two types of heated towel rails are purchased into the bathroom: electric or water. The first option is easier to install, but it requires large energy consumption. Therefore, the water heated towel rail is most often installed. It connects to the overall heating system or rising hot water.

Connecting a heating towel rail - impractical. The duration of the heating season is 6 months, to maintain the pipes in the hot state all year round will be impossible, unlike connecting hot water to rising. In this embodiment, difficulties are also possible. You will need to get permission to overlap water throughout the house. In the heating season it will be problematic, there is a high probability of an emergency. Therefore, we recommend connecting a heated towel rail to the DHW riser.

Replacing the old heated towel rail of the Soviet type in the bathroom is made with the help of a grinder, a serpent cooked together with the riser.

After dismantling and overlapping the water we make markup. We note the pencil of the lower connection site and the location of the pipes for divorce. When installing this plumbing adhere to SNiP. According to regulations, the height of the installation of the heated towel rail must be carried out at a distance of 1.2 m on the floor level and are located at least 0.6 m from the sink, bathroom and other plumbing equipment.

The heated towel rail can be installed above the washing machine, providing unhindered access to the technique. Lestenka Type dryer, as in our case, is mounted at such a height so that a person with an average growth can freely reach the last crossbar. When conducting markup, also consider that the heated towel rail should be located at a distance of more than 2 m from the riser, otherwise the installation will provoke large heat loss.

Further we hollow out in the disengaged part of the cavity wall under the pipe. To do the shoes, you can use a special strokeshesis or a conventional grinder with a drill. During the sticking, put the protective mask and glasses. If you leave the pipes in plain form, skip this step. At the ends of the riser under the output of plastic pipes, we install ball valves, thanks to them, you can overlap / resume water supply at any time.

Step 2: Wiring and output of pipes to the heated towel rail

The general connection diagram of the heated towel rail is the same for all types of device. From one end, the supply is carried out, and from another output of water from the system. Establish a wiring. We connect polypropylene tubes from ball valves to the flow of water to the dryer. I prepare additional tools and materials that will be needed during operation - a soldering iron and scissors for polypropylene pipes, connecting fittings (corners and coupling-American). For the divorce of the heating system, we use plastic pipes with fiberglass D \u003d 20 mm. Hour plugs.

Temporarily screwing the towel rail to the place without final fixation and windings, exhibit it exactly along the horizon and vertical, secure plumbing on the dowel screw. American coupling should perform from the wall on the thickness of the tile, which it will be facing.

Step 3: Grinding Stripes and Facing

After installing the towel rail in the level, we ware the wall from dust and close the stroke with putty.

Outside, leave the outer part of the polypropylene fitting with carvings, the rest is spitting.

As soon as the putty will freeze, remove the heated towel rail. We will finally mount it when we lick the walls with tiles.

Step 4: Installation of eccentrics and fasteners

The tile is put, now comes the final installation of the heated towel rail. From the side of the riser, we cut out in the tile of the window under the audit door. Through it, we are convinced that the cranes are blocked, unscrew the plugs.

Complete with a heated towel rail are eccentrics with narrow and wide thread, ½ and ¾ inch with a displacement. We screw the eccentric manually into the thread, out of the wall, inserting it a narrow part, pre-wound the sealing thread. We install smoothly, without distortion, do not slightly reach it so that the position of the heated towel rail can be adjusted. Tighten the connection with a wrench.

Do not forget about the installation of pads, we wear reflectors from above, which will hide the place of connecting the pipe with plumbing. We screw the heated towel rail from hand, exhibit it in terms of level, turning the eccentrics.

We screw the device and make tags, where the upper mounting of the heated towel rail to the wall will be located. Last time we remove the heated towel rail, we drill in the observed places of the hole under the dowel-screws using a special drill on the kafel to avoid tile cracking.

For fastening plastic we will use liquid nails Point 96. This is a crystal transparent retainer, which after applying creates an invisible seam, is suitable for almost all surfaces. Another feature is the primary fight. Apply additionally bolts and fastenings are not needed.

Luke is installed, if necessary, it easily opens to conduct audit and overlapping cranes.

Bathroom - room where high temperature is required. Firstly, feelings so comfortable, secondly, warm air will faster will carry out excessive humidity after taking a shower or bath. Heating in the bathroom makes infrequently not accepted. A more common way is to install a heated towel rail, which will talk about. So that everything worked without problems, you need to properly select the connection scheme, and it is also correctly implemented. And in all you will have to deal with yourself. After all, even if you do not do everything with your own hands, you will have to follow the plumbing. This can only be sure that you will leave a normally working dryer.

What designs are there

Heated towel rails are different forms. With their choice, people are often guided exclusively aesthetics, which is not entirely justified. These instruments are normally working with good water circulation, but not all models provide such circulation. With some, it is necessary to wise long, looking for the correct connection scheme, otherwise they simply refuse to work.

So, all heated towel rail can be divided into four groups:

It often happens that after installing the heated towel rail, it simply does not work. If the error is serious, the riser is also stopped working to which it is connected. Therefore, you need to know and execute the connection rules.

Where to connect and where to hang

You can connect a water heated towel rail to hot water riser and heating. If there are both of these options, it is usually chosen by the DHW. There are three reasons for this: fewer troubles with a connection permissions can be connected at any time of the year (agree on the management of the turning off of the riser and all) and, most importantly, the heated towel rail is heated all year round.

If the DHW is not in the house, you will have to connect to the heating riser. This requires permission of the Criminal Code and the project. Buy a heated towel rail (preferably simple design), go to the hob with his passport (copy), write a statement. If the resolution is given, order the project (also need a copy of the passport with the co-socitating dimensions). Then, according to the project, perform themselves or hire the performers (plumbers from the Hweak, as an option). Call an assistant to acceptance.

To the "Towel" warmer always and without problems, all the submarines are straight, without arcs and pockets

When determining the installation site of the towel rail, questions may still have questions about what height should be hung. If there is a choice, it is most convenient to have it so that it is at the head level and below. This is if you put a P-shaped or snake. If we are talking about "ladders" of a high height, the upper bar have no level of glow raised hand (approximately 190-200 cm).

When choosing a place of installation of a towel rail, you must still take into account the distance from the riser. In principle, the closer to the riser, the better it is more likely to work. But, it is possible to attribute to the meter or so, only when performing conditions:

small hydraulic resistance of the heated towel rail (simple shape and section 1 "or 3/4"),
sufficient pressure (2 atm or more)
wallow pipes of normal diameter (one step less than the riser).

At the same time, it is necessary to fulfill other rules for the connection. Then there will be chances and the fact that the device will work normally.

What to make taps and how to change the riser

If the riser is metallic and you are not going to change it, the installation of a towel rail is possible with steel or. If the riser you change (the best option) and put polypropylene, there is no choice - the PPR tubes go to the taps. Polypropylene take for hot water, better - reinforced fiberglass.

Why does not fit metal plastic? Because he has the fittings with a strong alignment of the lumen. It affects the circulation very badly. As a result, even 100% workable schemes do not give normal heating.

A little about why change the riser. It makes sense to do in old houses when repaired in a bathroom or bathroom (depending on where you have a standing). First, the pipes are usually old and worn. Even the removal is even problematic to privacy, so metal worn out. Secondly, modern repairs implies a hidden gasket of communications and you too want. Hold the old tube, and after a few years everything is repeated again ... Not the best solution.

A little about how to change. You need to agree with the neighbors from below and from above, as well as with the JCEC (DEZ, CC). With the neighbors that you will cut the riser and on the thread, install a new one. Why do they have? Because leave the old pipe in the overlap is dangerous: collapsed and flows. Floods you or neighbors from below. Therefore, it is better through the overlaps to go through a new pipe.

With such a connection, the dryer is part of the riser and no cranes be

Having arranged or not with the neighbors (they can have a closed riser) go to the HOS and agree on the date of replacement and time to which the riser is turned off. Local locksmith can work, you yourself (in the presence of a welder's qualifications) or people hired by you. After the insertion, the water includes, you check the working capacity of the heated towel rail and the system as a whole. If in 30 minutes it does not start cooling, then it is delivered correctly. On this, the replacement or installation of the heated towel rail is completed.

With bypass or without

Let's start with what is bypass. This jumper between the input and the output of the device, which ensures the circulation of water when the instrument is output or its disconnection.

The jumper between the entrance and the output of the towel rail and there is bypass

If there is a bypass with the diagram, you can install shut-off ball valves at the input and output of the device. This is convenient - you can disable if necessary (during repair or replacement) and do not overlap the entire riser.

If there is no such jumper, it is impossible to install any cranes. In this case, the heated towel rail is part of the riser, closing the cranes you completely overlapping the riser.

Bypass can be direct (as on the first photo in chapter) or shifted (in the photo below). The displaced jumper is set at the top of the coolant feed for better operation (the circulation is improved). At the bottom feed, the offset only interferes. If you do not know where water is served, it is better to make a direct bypass.

More bypass (straight or displaced) are made alone. Selling, as well as the offset improves circulation, but only in the case of the upper feed. Seasonings make a pipe that is less than the main one (if the inch is inch, a narrow place is made 3/4 "). Less can not. Insert size is at least 10 cm.

Once again: displaced and / or narrowed bypass works only at the top of the water supply. At the bottom it hinders the circulation. If you are not sure, make bypass direct and outrageous.

It is categorically impossible to put cranes on the bypass. Each crane is the loss of pressure, which means that it worsens the circulation of all the riser, the water flows no longer so hot. All neighbors above or lower (depends on the direction of the feed) the pressure is noticeably deteriorated. Sometimes it falls as the owner of Bypassa with a crane. To all, it is an absolutely unnecessary detail that brings only harm, and there is no noticeable improvement in circulation in the heated towel rail. Well, and in addition, this is a violation of SNiP 31-01-2003 (P 10.6) - interference in general communitudes, for which a fine may be discharged (considerable).

How to place taps (connection methods)

With lateral and diagonal connections, the taps should be located at one level with the inputs of the towel rail or slightly above / lower. What exactly will not work, so this is the installation of a towel rail if the taps are located at a distance of less than the distance between the inputs. In the photo below, an example of a non-working diagonal connection with close removal. Black is marked with an option for its corrections (the upper supply).

When connected, it is necessary to have taps strictly horizontally or a bit at an angle. A bit at an angle is from 2 cm per meter (2%) or can be slightly larger. The direction of the slope depends on the connection scheme and to which end this removal will be connected. To be slightly clearer, consider several typical circuits for connecting heated towel rails.

Universal Lower Connection of the Lanenka Heated Towel

This scheme works regardless of the direction of hot water supply. Connection type - bottom, both removal should be located lower than the bottom edge of the dryer. At the top of the feed, let's say an option when the edge is between the discharge, but the work may not be so effective (it can be worse).

In this diagram you can install shut-off cranes. For its normal operation requires:

Mounted on the upper leads of the cranes of Maevsky (air ventilateers) to descend accumulating in the upper part of the air. They will need to periodically open and lower the air (as it starts to warm it worse). There is an option - put automatic air vent. They also have compact. It will simplify operation.
Bypass direct with searches. Size of sediments - pipe for one step of smaller diameter.
Taps are performed by a pipe on a step of smaller diameter than the main riser.

If you have a height of this option, make it. The scheme operates in all conditions, with heated towel rails like "Lanenka" of any kind.

Possible Nizhny Connection Option

When spilling hot water from above, you can make the upper removal above the bottom edge of the dryer. With the displaced bypass and his searches should be warm up fine. This method is not the best, but working.

The presence of air droplets and air booming after the system is stopped - mandatory.

Universal side connection

You can bring the pipe on the side of the Tilt of any of the standard forms - P-shaped, snake and ladder. Connection itself on the form depends. In the standard version there is a straight out of mind bypass. Taps or strictly horizontally or with a slight bias. The slope is in the picture: the end of the top outlet is tilted slightly down (2 cm per 1 meter), the bottom - stroke a little up. The diameter of the taps is not less than the diameter of the heated towel rail.

A similar connection scheme is good because there is no need to install air vent (put the plugs), as the air simply goes into the riser.

With the upper feed on the bypass, it is possible to make alignment and / or shift the jumper towards the towel rail. It will improve the circulation, the dryer will warm up better. But again: this scheme will work only at the top of the water supply.

With such a scheme, you can also make taps under a slight inclination or strictly horizontally.

Possible side connection option (not the best)

The lateral connection scheme with the location of the top removal is below the top edge of the heated towel rail. But with such a connection, Maevsky cranes are needed through which air will have to burst after turning off the DHW to repair / prevention. You may also need periodic air removal in the process.

Diagonal connection

There is no particular sense in the diagonal connection of the majority of heated towel rails: their efficiency from the side is no different (in any case there is no significant improvement), and the flow consumption is more, and the lobes are also required, and this is laborious. Although the scheme is operational.

Diagonal works normally if the water supply goes from above. Then the upper removal is connected to the far edge of the "ladder", and the bottom to the neighbor.

In this case, too, you can also do a narrowed and biased bypass, but without this everything should work "with a bang." With the lower supply of bypass without searches, exactly on the riser, connection

Close-in-shaped heated towel rails: how to connect

In the case of connecting toweling devices of complex form, in addition to ordinary means, it is also necessary to take into account the features of the structure of each specific model. They should be considered from the point of view of hydrodynamics - where water will be better to flow, there and feed water. For example, the popular model "Elegy" company SUNERGA. This is not a staircase and not Zig-knocked.

Installing a heated towel rail Side Sunerios chosen lateral, since with any other circulation will be broken. There are no options at all.

Another model - with the lower connection and complex design, has three installation options. Under the condition of water supply from above, the best will work best, a little worse - the first, the most intact - the third one.

When submitting below, the option 1 and 3 remains, but only without aligning bypass - it will interfere, and not help. The second option is excluded completely.

How can not do

All schemes presented above work stably. As you notice, all the taps go straight, without bends in the form of an arc or rings. This is not by chance - in all irregularities, air accumulates, which interferes, and sometimes, and completely overlaps the circulation.

In the photo installation of the heated towel rail is incorrect. Made at least two mistakes:

the taps have already been made than the mid-scene distance of the heated towel rail;
they are made by a metal-plastic pipe with hinges.

This connection simply cannot work. Metal-plastic pipes are excellent material, but not for connecting heated towel rails. Their fittings have a very strong alignment of the lumen, which is badly affected by circulation. Plus, air accumulates in the hinges, as well as the stream along the upper loop, even when serving from above, will not go - too large hydraulic resistance to water should be overcome.

Unstable schemes

The following two schemes can work, but not always. At the bottom of the heated towel rail, water is stirred and, with some difference of heights, can not rise. To say specifically when it will work, and when no, no one can. Depends on the pressure in the riser, from the diameter of the pipes and the design of the dryer itself.

With such a connection, even a working connection may suddenly stop working after stopping). Everything is simple: the pressure has changed, the pipes clogged, the water from below does not "pushing", the heated towel rail does not heat.

Another version of the unstable scheme is from the loop from above. Again, under some conditions it will work. But sooner or later the highest point is delivered and blocks circulation. The trouble can help, if you install automatic air vent, but when the pressure drops and it does not save.

Completely incorrect

In the photo below, examples of how to do not need. Schemes without crane on the bypass are inoperable. What it threatens - it is known. In addition, after several years of operation, they will no longer function. Most likely this will happen after another shutdown - the system will score mud. All because the entire flux of hot water is broken through a heated towel rail. After repairing the water carries a huge amount of dirt, which safely settles in bends (in the lowest sections in the first place). For several years everything is clogged completely. For a good, everything is required to remake and connect correctly, but it can only help the grinding.

It is necessary to rinse a heated towel rail and the supply to it. For this, the dryer is removed and mine in the bathroom, and we wash the taps alternately by connecting the hose to the released outputs, the second end of which to withdraw into the sewer. Manipulating the cranes to skip the stream of hot water through one removal, then through the other. After washing everything is installed in place. It may be possible to run after this system.

Mounting process

Connecting a heated towel rail to ready-made discharges standard for plumbing - suitable fittings, flax and packaging paste or fum-tape. For mounting to the wall there are brackets or special clamps-holders in which the pipe is pressed. The process is shown in detail in the video.

Heated towel rail in the bathroom - an extremely comfortable device. Thanks to him, the comfort of using this room increases significantly. There is always the opportunity to dry a wet towels, wear a warm bathrobe after the shower, and for young mothers a very important point is the drying of children's things after express styrenes, which sometimes happen several times a day. Yes, and in the bathroom itself from the towel rail placed on the wall - significantly warmer, as he also plays the role of peculiar.

Those old heated towel rails that were previously installed in urban apartments were not satisfied by many from aesthetic point of view. Therefore, conceiving repairs in the bathroom or in a combined bathroom, the owners plan and install a new device, in an old place, or with transfer to a more convenient, from their point of view, position. But with all the seeming simplicity of such an operation, the installation of a heated towel rail in the bathroom still obeys a number of important rules. If they are not taken into account, then either the device will not function as I would like, or, even worse, to break the normal operation of the entire hot water system or heating.

The main focus of this publication and will be to give the owners of the apartment an idea, which circuits for connecting the heated towel rail are considered acceptable and efficient. It should be assumed that if the home master is taken for such a matter, it should not be led by the main techniques of plumbing installation. Well, if a third-party specialist is invited - there will be the opportunity to control his work, since in this environment there are a considerable number of candid halchiers.

General ideas about the work of the heated towel rail

There are several types of similar devices. The overwhelming majority of them are designed to work when connecting to the pipeline by which the circulation of the preheated liquid. A lot of electrical models appeared on sale in our time, which only connects to the power supply to the power supply. This, so to speak, "separately worthy" category of heated towel rails, the installation of which does not require compliance with special requirements - it is important to observe only the rules of electrical safety. By and large, the installation of such an appliance is not much different from the connection, say the lamp or heating convector.

The most "problem" were and remains all the same heated toweling of the water principle of operation - it is with their installation that the greatest number of questions arise. Devices of this type and will be mainly devoted to the further presentation.

We will immediately make a reservation that you can purchase a combination type model that will work through hot water circulation, but it may be switched to electrical heating if necessary. Nevertheless, the connection of such heated towel rails to the contours of the pipes is subject to the general rules, therefore, we will not carry them into a separate category.

How to understand the manifold of heated towel rails?

The proposed assortment of such devices is extremely wide, which can even put a dead end when choosing. A special publication of our portal will help on this issue.

So, for the normal operation of the heated towel rail, the flow of heated fluid through it is necessary. In high-rise buildings, where hot water supply was organized on the principle of constant circulation of water, this device, as a rule, was simply an ordinary loop of the pipe of hot riser, most often - on the descending part of the "ring", that is, with a stream directed from top to bottom. This was laid in this sense that consumers get hot water of the required temperature, regardless of the floor of the residence, and during the return of the flux it was an additional selection of heat on heated towel rails.

Note - the pipe forming the loop (one in the U-type heated towel rails, or two-M-type) has the diameter of the same as on the riser itself, or even more. This is a requirement to ensure normal, without interference and excessive hydraulic resistance, circulation in the local circuit of the DHW.

It is clear that such heated towel rails are currently very often not satisfying the owners of their appearance. The decision to replace them with more modern, most suitable for its aesthetic qualities to the interior created in the bathroom is made. And here begin "Wonders." The incompetent intervention of homemade masters or even "Plumbing Mountains" (which, unfortunately, very much), leads to the fact that, at best, a heated towel rail does not work at all or warms unevenly (this applies to ladder-type devices). And in the worst - the functioning of the hot water system is disturbed throughout the rise of the entrance, which entails the measures of administrative impact and, of course, the aggravation of relations with all neighbors.

The fact is that ill-conceived solutions based most often to the desire to hide eyelid pipes or purchase the device of the original form, without taking into account the features of its connection, lead to a violation of the hydraulic balance in the system. Therefore, further in the article will propose options for connecting the towel rails, from which you can choose the most appropriate. In addition, attention will be paid to the schemes controversial, knowingly non-working, and even forbidden to implement.

Another reservation before proceeding to the consideration of the schemes. In the future, it will be discussed to the greater installation of the heated towel rail in the hot water supply system. The fact is that in private houses or in apartments where autonomous heating organized these devices are often part of the heating system. On the one hand, it seems to be comfortable, but on the other - in the summer, when the heating of the house is not needed, the device becomes "incapable".

Another option is to connect a heated towel rail to the autonomous hot water supply system equipped with an automated circulation scheme of work.

Schemes in both variants of autonomous systems can be very diverse, complex, but obeying already somewhat different rules. Therefore, this question will also be "led behind the brackets", as it applies to another section, more connected with heating systems.

Prices for heated towel rails

Heated towel rails

What scheme of connecting a towel rail to choose?

The simplest diagrams of heated towel rails

So, previously heated towel rails were most often an integral part of the circulation riser of hot water supply. With such a scheme for connecting their work, absolutely nothing can prevent anything - the diameter of the "coil" is not less than the diameter of the pipe of the riser, hydraulic resistance, even the extension score of the highway, almost does not increase. While the hot water is circulating in the system, the device itself will be heated.

Pay attention to the red arrows shown. The direction of flow to the performance of a heated towel rail with a similar connection - absolutely does not affect. Simplicity and reliability of such a connection moves apartments owners not to abandon it and when changing the heated towel rail. It is enough to choose a modern model with an appropriate mid-scene distance and a diameter of the pipe to prevent the ingress of the riser.

Installation also does not look too complicated. It is necessary to negotiate the utilities about the temporary turning off the rising and draining water from it. Then the old heated towel rail is dismantled (or cut off). It is installed in its place, according to the technology most suitable for specific conditions. This may be the welding of threaded pipes with further "searchable" of the device, use, if possible, preserved threaded sites, and the like. Often they resort to the update of the riser itself - for example, change it on, without reducing the inner diameter of the pipe. Then the installation will be even easier - the appropriate fittings are boiled to transition to the thread, and the heated towel rail is already mounted.

The riser itself is often hiding for the decorative box, which "masks" the entire layout of the pipes in the bathroom or bathroom. But in principle, with any connection scheme, this should not affect its configuration.

No matter how the installation was carried out, it is impossible to allow two errors:

- Often when installing metal-plastic pipes, there is an invalid searched passage, which is associated with the peculiarities of the structure of the press fittings. This may affect the overall performance of the entire riser, since hydraulic resistance increases sharply on local areas.

The second amateur error is the installation in front of the locking device of the locking devices. No words - the presence of cranes allows you to independently turn off the device when it does not need it, and if necessary, dismantling or any repair work. Cranes usually put, but only not as shown in the illustration below.

The overlap of any crane almost paralyzes the work of the whole riser. The circulation is terminated, water supply from the mixers may also be preserved, but the immobilized volume will cool quickly, and to get hot water at the outlet, you will have to merge a considerable amount cooled. In addition, with a closed crane, the riser is not excluded. In a word, no shut-off devices on the riser (and in this case, the towel rail is its integral part) is not allowed.

Considering the fact that the cranes in front of the heated towel rail are still very useful, from the scheme shown above increasingly refuse, organizing a system in which bypass is present. This is a jumper connecting, coming from the riser to the heated towel rail. Options here can be different. So, as a bypass, it can be the riser itself, to which nozzles for connecting a heated towel rail - in modern new buildings it is most often planned that such a layout is planned, which gives the owners the maximum number of connection options.

If an old eyeliner is reworked, like this, as was shown above, the bypass may be boiled or mounted on the thread on horizontal sections that are separated from the riser to the device. In any of their cases after the bypass, it is quite possible to install cranes - on the overall circulation in the system riser, this influence will not.

Bypass installation is solved immediately a lot of problems. First, it provides hot water supply of approximately one temperature to all apartments located in the riser, regardless of the floor. The owner of the apartment is wave at any time turn off his heated towel rail or even remove it at all, break the shut-up ball valves. Moreover, it may well install a thermostatic regulator on a heated towel rail, which is capable of maintaining the temperature in the "coil" at a certain level, by analogy with heating radiators.

There is a commodity opinion that the bypass must be necessarily either shifted, or to have sediment (one diameter less linked). Indeed, this approach should somewhat improve the circulation of water through the heated towel rail. But the practice shows that there is no particular difference in simple configuration of the device - water is perfectly circulating and with direct non-aligned bypass, since, in addition to the forced circulation flow, the gravitational, due to the density difference heated and somewhat cooled into heated toweling liquids interferes. By the way, the narrowed bypass can even play a negative role in some circumstances. In the future, several schemes will be considered with a different location of bypass or embedded pipes.

But that's what is completely unacceptable - to install shut-off valves on any bypass. No excuses, they say, this crane improves circulation through the dryer, and will always be opened if the taps are blocked on the device itself - should not be taken into account. According to the existing rules from the owner of the apartment in a high-rise building, in principle there should be no possibility of independent overlap of the riser. The fact that he can vouch for his prudence at all excludes accidents, because of which the circulation of hot water can be blocked for the entire entrance.

By the way, such a connection scheme is very widely "walking" by expanses of the Internet (even with the application of photographs of the work performed), where the unscrupulous authors of articles are issued as one of the possible options. It is very biased to refer to such a publication!

In the conditions of a private house, where the heating system and hot water supply is completely autonomous, the owner can establish what the shut-off reinforcement of it, where it takes it necessary. However, and in this case, the need for such a crane on the bypass looks very doubtful - everything can be solved in proper balancing of the system and the installation of thermostatic devices.

The range of heated towel rails is not limited to the simplest models with side connections. Many choose heated towel rails with the lower, diagonal or even universal location of the mounting pipes to the liner pipes. It is with such devices that the most confusion arises, the maximum number of errors is allowed when, after installation and connection, it turns out that the heated towel rail or barely warms, or generally tightly "locked". Therefore, further consideration will be devoted to various installation options for more complex schemes.

Read how to do with complete instructions and photos, in our new article.

Recommended and non-disabilities for connecting heated towel rails

Side or diagonal connection

In the first place we will put a scheme that is characterized by high versatility and therefore apply extremely often. In principle, it largely repeats the simplest options that have already described above.

The scheme is equally well working with a "Lanenka" type heated towel rail, with water supply in the rack from above or below. It does not require a displacement, nor alone by bypass. No dependence on the water pressure in the riser and the speed of its movement is not traced. Removal from the riser, in principle, is also not regulated. If you comply with all the rules of connection, there is no need to resort to air blending if there was a temporary disabling of water supply.

In order for such a scheme to demonstrate all its advantages, you must follow the following rules:

The lower point of the insertion in the riser should be lower than the lower nozzle of the connection of the heated towel rail. Accordingly, the upper cut is above the top of the connection point. In this case, the slope is followed by about 20-30 mm on the phenomenon meter. True, this condition becomes even optional, if the heated towel rail is located at a distance of no more than 2 meters from the riser, and pipes with a diameter of 32 mm and above are used for lining. In such conditions, it is possible to limit the horizontal eyeliner.
No bends are allowed in the sections of the eyelid, as they become potential "air collectors" that prevent normal water circulation.
Seasonings or bypass displacement is not required. Moreover, when water supplying water, the narrowed bypass becomes only an interference, which can also lock the internal circulation through the coolant. When the water is supplied from above, you can use bypass, at the rate of one step diameter less than the riser, although it will not have any particular importance to have a special meaning, and expediency is doubtful, since the versatility of the system simply disappears.
The diameter of the supply pipe should be at least DU20: 25 for polypropylene with high-quality internal reinforcement or ¾ inch - for steel pipes VGP. When installing ball valves - size is also at least ¾ inch.
Verified by practice allowable removal from the riser when using PPR pipes - up to 4.5 meters.
It is advisable to place the pipes in the thermal insulation layer, and with their hidden installation (that is, with the location in the stroke cut in the wall) it becomes at all a prerequisite for normal operation.

Learn a few available ways from our new article.

By the way, despite the problem, there is no special advantage of the diagonal connection in this case. Apparently, it is considered according to the association with heating radiators, where, in fact, with a diagonal insert with the upper supply of the coolant, the total heat transfer of the battery increases by 5 ÷ 7%.

A similar scheme makes it possible to some modification, for example, when there is a need to arrange the eyelvering pipes somewhat differently.

In principle, even according to the scheme of this option, it can be seen that no conditions were changed - the difference only at the insertion points in the riser and in the presence of vertical sites at the inlet and the outlet of the heated towel rail. This does not affect the efficiency of the device and its performance in any direction of water supply.

The illustration shows another eyeliner when the lateral connection is shown. It happens that the installation conditions do not allow to disseminate the connections of the inserts into the height of the heated towel rail. So, we will apply this option, however, with such a knocking, you can not do without installing the air vent on the instrument itself - due to the resulting step after the time turning off the water in the heated towel rail, an air stop is formed, which will have to be released manually.

Now - several permissible schemes with a narrowed or biased by bypass. As already mentioned, there are no special needs in such measures, but still many plumbing adhere to strictly their points of view and try to perform the insert that way. Another option - on the previously stood heated towel rail, a shifted or narrowed bypass was already installed, and there is no desire to completely redo the design of the riser.

So, the same two schemes, with a side and diagonal connection, but only in the riser between the outlats to the heated towel rail is made for one diameter step.

It would seem - such an approach is obvious. But again, apparently, the associativity of thinking is triggered, caused by the requirements for such an installation of heating radiators in a single-tube system. But the heated towel rail is still not quite a radiator, and such alterations are not needed here. Moreover, such a scheme will be operational exclusively at the top of the water supply. If the feed is carried out from below, or even in the case when the direction of the flow on the owner of the apartment is unknown, it is better to refuse this approach.

And in the rest, the diagram at the top of the feed is quite efficient and effective, particularly unlimited distance from the riser to the heated towel rail. The basic requirements in it are the same as with a direct non-alien bypass.

Now - option with a displaced bypass. The offset is also often used when the heating radiators are wiring, it is used by its masters and when mounting heated towel rails. Such an approach is particularly justified when trying to preserve the old taps of the riser, to which the most primitive loop joined, which was told at the beginning of the section. In order not to change the entire riser, you can simply embed the bypass.

But at the same time it is necessary to keep in mind that the flow direction should also be top down. Otherwise, the situation is quite likely when the device remains cold.

Another moment is important - with a displaced bypass, it should not be installed for its installation - should not. This can significantly reduce the efficiency of the heated towel rail, unbalanced the normal circulation of water. In general, they are always advised to strive to ensure that the bypass is equal to the riser in front of the heated towel rail.

Otherwise, all requirements and tolerances when installing such a schema are similar to the side connection with direct bypass.

Lower connection of the towel rail

Such a method of installation of the towel rail is popular because it allows you to hidden eyelid pipes, without resorting to large-scale fines - part of the highways can simply be hidden standing along the walls accessories. In addition, a number of models are calculated on this type of installation. It must be said that heated towel rails - "Lanes" with lower eyeliner looks - very effectively, although in efficiency still losing instruments in with side or diagonal connections.

Connecting such heated towel rails, despite the seeming simplicity, also obeys certain rules. Let's consider several acceptable schemes.

This scheme works regardless of the direction of water flow. Mandatory condition - the presence of the crane of Maevsky on one of the vertical collectors - any water shutdown always leads to a delivering of the instrument. Usually, the trigger taps are included in the set of towel rail and covered with a decorative cap so as not to be disharmoned on a general background. If the house is hot water supply steadily, often resort to air production and do not have to.

What basic requirements should such scheme meet?

Lower tap from the riser with any embodiment should always be located below the heated towel rail.
Upper discharge, in the case when a narrowed or biased bypass is used, should also be located below the heated towel rail - only in this case universality will be achieved, that is, the instrument will function at any direction of the water flow. With an even unsubstituted bypass, this requirement is optional, but better, if on any horizontal site, the eyelverid pipe will still have a small bias up, from a riser to a heated towel, at least 5 to 30 mm on a length of length. A strictly horizontal laying arrangement from the top removal is allowed only at low distances from the riser or using pipes with a diameter of 32 mm.
Naturally, "humps" should be completely excluded all over the pipes, where air can accumulate.
At the bottom of the pipe, the pipe is most often hidden into the walls of the wall, so it will have to wear them into the thermal insulation shell anyway.

Options shown above the scheme may be as follows:

The need to place the supply pipes from the riser to the heated towel rail at the minimum distance from the floor forcing the vertical sections elongated before connecting to the device. But this is, in fact, nothing changes. Both removal are located below the heated towel rail, which is optimal for all such schemes. The flow direction is any, it does not affect the efficiency.

If there is such a situation, then you need to comply with the rule in order to the upper tap, on the horizontal area, the rule of a small rise up (is shown by the blue arrow), even if only 5 ÷ 20 mm per meter. In this case, the universality of the scheme will continue, that is, its independence from the direction of water flow in the rack.

This scheme complies with the same requirements as the above. The only requirement is the diameter of the bypass should not be less than the riser diameter.

And what if it is planned to be the bottom connection of the towel rail, and on the riser there remained an old cut-in with a biased bypass, and I would not want to redo it. At the same time, the upper removal is high enough, and if you follow the rule that it should be below the connection point - you will have to do the ceiling to the ceiling itself. On this score, there is also a solution, but only under the observance of two important conditions.

- First, such a scheme will work guaranteed steadily only at the top of the water supply. When filing from below, it is very likely to "lock" the inner contour, and the device will remain cold.

- Secondly, the upper tap of the riser in any case should be located below the upper edge of the heated towel rail, otherwise the device will not be able to work in principle.

If at least one of these conditions is not fulfilled, then there is nothing to think - you will have to engage in reworking the riser on a straight line, with a smooth and not narrowed bypass. Then there will be a complete option to choose the optimal connection scheme.

Not obviously workers, erroneous connection schemes

In favor of external design of the bathroom or in pursuit of maximum savings and funds (for example, when using old layout sections or punched for other channels in the walls), inexperienced masters sometimes make mistakes. These omissions lead to the fact that with visual, it would seem, the correctness of the inserts of the heated towel rail remains cold, despite the good work of hot water supply.

We give as examples the most common incorrect connection schemes.

Probably, everything is clear without words - wanting to bring the pipe from above (usually in order to make it any masking, for example, above the suspended ceiling, because there are different reasons and come up with), "Master" created "Horb" on the side of the eyeliner from the top removal. As a result, it turned out a loop, in which air will definitely begin to accumulate. Moreover, it will occur even at relatively stable operation of the hot water system - minor air bubbles in hot water are practically constantly. Sooner or later, there will be a situation when the air stopper will simply block the circulation through the heated towel rail, and the device will remain cold.

In theory, all this is solved by installing on the upper part of the resulting loop of the crane Maevsky. But then, how much is the meaning of all this, if there is a desire to perform a hidden eyeliner?

This example does not comply with the key condition - the location of the lower removal is below the bottom of the heated towel rail. It turns out that the mechanisms of forced and natural (gravitational "water circulation enter into" antagonism ".

Water that coal in a heated towel seek to fall down and involuntarily turns out to be in a kind of "trap", formed by the created loop between the bottom of the bottom in the riser and the lower edge of the device. Free yield in her riser is difficult, and he does not give her movement of hot water.

Perhaps at first a heated towel rail and will seem operational, however, quite significant gradation will be felt on temperature - the bottom is clearly colder. To a certain will reach the "critical mass", when water will be much easier to flow through the riser, bypassing the device. Circulation will stop the heated towel rail to turn into a "decoration" of the bathroom.

In general, everything is incorrectly - lower eyeliner, and both cutting points of the cutting are located above the lower edge of the heated towel rail. There is no stimulus to flow through the small contour and in messenger, and in addition, two "bag traps" for cooled water is formed immediately, about which is described above.

Master decided to hide the top eyeliner sweat ceiling, and the bottom is to remove into the screed. As a result, it turned out the "scheme" which would not work at once for two reasons. The air will be accumulated from above, and below - again the "bag" formed, which makes it difficult to circulate. The result is the same - very soon the heated towel rail is "standing up".

Finally, consider the scheme with the side connection, already mentioned above, but which can be considered conditionally, only with the upper water supply. Speech again is about "hobbies" by some plumbers alone or displaced bypass.

What is the case here, because it would seem, all the requirements are observed? A snag is in a narrowed or displaced bypass.

Due to the fact that the displacement or narrowing is made, at the bottom point, the fluid pressure at the inlet is higher than in the top. It means that the pump that provides circulation in the riser will strive to "download" water into the heated towel rail precipitated. But he must meet the gravitational stream of cooled water. It turns out that they are at the bottom point and begin to mutually slow down each other.

And here - "how lucky". If the pump providing circulation is quite powerful, then it, of course, sell the gravitational counterflow. True, at the same time, sites of uneven warm-up may appear in the heated towel, since the forced stream will certainly choose the path of the smallest resistance, with the cooled water "on the periphery".

But even in this case, it is impossible to exclude a pronounced direct dependence of the working capacity of the heated towel rail from the head in the riser. It is worth the pressure of hot water to drop to some marks - and circulation through the device will completely stop. Moreover, this drop in pressure must necessarily be due to any emergency situations. Simply, for example, in the evening, the overall waterscence increases in a multi-storey building - and this can already be enough for the heated towel rail to become a little warm, and even cold.

Attempts to understand the effectiveness of the heated towel rail in such a situation with a diagonal connection will only aggravate the position, and the probability of normal operation will become even less. Forced flow will have to overcome much greater hydraulic resistance, passing the device diagonally, despite the fact that the gravitational reverse pressure will remain at the same level. So, instead of improvement, an inoperable towel rail can be obtained.

The output is obvious - a narrowed or displaced bypass with a lateral connection of the device will be justified exclusively when hot water is supplied from above, so that forced and gravitational flows are in one direction, reinforcing each other.

So, the most popular proper installation schemes of the towel rail in the bathroom were considered, the analysis of possible errors. The author will consider his mission completely performed if the home wizard has a clear idea of \u200b\u200bwhich option to choose to ensure that the working device is generated.

As for the installation work itself, it is very difficult to give any ready-made recipes here. A lot depends on the type of heated towel rail, and from the chosen type of pipes, and from the desire to hide them or leave in sight, the masters' skills to apply this or that technology of their compound.

Therefore, we restrict ourselves to the fact that as an example, place several videos, which demonstrate the process of installing heated towel rails of various models.

Several illustrative examples of installation of towel rails of various models

Video: Installation of the M-shaped heated towel rails directly on the taps of riser

Video: Installation of a M-shaped heated towel rail to "water outlets"

Video: Installation of vertical heated towel rail - "Lestenka" with lower eyeliner

Heated towel rails are becoming increasingly popular, because in the bathroom it is important to maintain an elevated temperature. Heating in this room is less appropriate. Much more pleasant to install a heated towel rail.

In order for everything to be done neatly and functioned without problems, a number of subtleties should be taken into account. Select the most suitable scheme, remove the old device, as well as correctly pick up and attach a new device model.

Before choosing a specific model, it is important to know the varieties and features of the functioning of various heated towel rails.

In the manufacture of manufacturers use two main material: stainless steel and brass. The naked eye their differences are invisible. Stainless steel, of course, wins in choosing. Her advantage is to maintain a large water pressure in high-rise buildings.

If it is decided to choose a stainless steel, you should take care of the seamless design of the pipe. It is also important to choose a model with thickened walls (more than 3 mm).

Now there is a huge selection of heated towel rails in size, forms, color and other features.

Typically consider three main types of devices:

electrical
water
combined.

Water divided into their subspecies:

stainless steel,
from non-ferrous metals
from black steel.

Water-type heated towel rails (this will be discussed precisely about them) work together with central heating. Therefore, one of the main points is the quality of the water itself. Most of all are subjected to destruction from the unfavorable composition of the liquid of the product from non-ferrous metal.

Electrical devices are easier to use and easily adjusted. But their installation due to the presence of humidity is more complicated and must be held in all requirements and standards.

The most optimal option is combined devices. They serve longer and allow you to regularly change the heating source (electricity or water). In winter, it is better to use water, and in the rest - electricity.

Required tools

Before installation, you must take care of the availability of all tools. The presence of certain devices depends on the type of pipes. Taking into account the standard steel options, the inventory needs the following:

gas (at number 2), downtime and wrench;
hoven for metal;
thread-cutting dies;
electrode with a perforator, concrete drills;
corner-type grinding (Bulgarian);
hammer, passage and screwdriver;
level, roulette and pencil.

In addition, a number of consumables will be needed:

signs, taps, couplings, etc;
shut-off valves;
pacle of flax;
screws, dowels, bolts and brackets.

Dismantling of an old heated towel rail

When it comes to update the device, it is important to remove the old correctly. Most often it is Soviet coils. When replacing such a model, it is important to remove a whole riser with it, because the removal of only part of the pipe is not very favorably affecting.

It is important to coordinate this case with neighbors and temporarily suspend water supply. The riser itself is cut with a grinder. Before installing new pipes, cut the thread, and after connecting them.

Among the already installed models are also pretty modern. If the previous installation was performed competently - it is not possible to replace the heated towel rail. At the same time, the new device must be made by analogy with the previous one and have the same fasteners.

Variants of connection schemes

One of the simplest schemes - when the device is part of the riser of hot water supply. The stream and its directionality does not affect the functioning of the heated towel rail. This system is simple, reliable and makes it easy to replace the old device. At the installation of the installation often hide in a decorative box.

It is important to prevent a sharp narrowing of fitting on a common riser, as well as installation of cranes in front of the device. The second leads to stopping the work of all the riser.

With this scheme, it is more expedient to use the jumper (bypass), which combines the riser and the heated towel rail. Installing the locking element on the bypass is also unacceptable.

The following schemes can be considered:

Diagonal or side connection. This is the most commonly used and reliable option. The system is good in the staircase type of device with water supply from the top down. No bypass is required, and the dependence on the water pressure is completely absent. By installing the device according to such a scheme, it is important to comply with some conditions:
- the lower point of contact with the riser should be located below the nozzle, which connects to the heated towel rail;
- the system should not contain bends - this spoils the circulation of water;
- the main thing is that the diameter of the pipes is not less than Du 20:25 (polypropylene) and 0.75 inches (steel);
- permissible remoteness from the PPR of the material - 4.5 meters;
- for successful operation, it is necessary to apply thermal insulation material on pipes.
The diagonal connection on efficiency is no different from the side. Only the flow consumption is more and the installation process is the most labor cost.
Side connection with shifted bypass. The scheme is rational while maintaining the old rejected parts of the riser under the used loop-shaped model of the heated towel rail. Change the riser at the same time. It is enough just to mount bypass. The direction of water should also go from above.
Connecting from below. Many devices are calculated on this fastening. The system allows you to hide the pipes using accessories. This method is less effective than previous ones.

With the complicated form models, it is important to take into account the features of their design. It is better to determine in which direction water flows better, and only after installing.

Step-by-step instructions for installation do it yourself

After removing the old heated towel rail, the work process consists of several stages. First, preparatory work is:

Installation of cranes and bypass.
Preliminary marking of future mounts to the wall (this will require a level).
Drilling holes and fastening dowels.

With the help of fittings, it is necessary to connect the device with water supply fittings. Thread is important to wind pakrels. We must not forget about the minimum laying slope (approximately 5-7 mm). Tighten the nuts is better using a soft tissue that you need to put turnkey. In the end of the nut it is important to use the seal. The delay process itself is better to lead smooth movements. If difficulties have arisen - spin everything again and correct items.

When the assembly is finished, water can be supplied. In order to avoid trouble, it is better to do it smoothly.

More The whole process you can watch the following video:

New models are more complex and incomprehensible. Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to study the entire instruction attached to them, as well as installation recommendations. You should also remember the compatibility of materials throughout the system.

The heated towel rail is in each bathroom.

Installing a heated towel rail is not a challenging task with which every man can cope, who has no experience in this case.

We will tell you how it can be done with your own hands.

You do not have to seek help to plumbers if you read this article.

Preparatory stage

What you need to do first is to decide on the design.

It should be not only comfortable, but also beautiful, as well as choose the method of fastening and pick up the optimal hollow products for the battery.

It is necessary for:

drying small personal belongings
reduction of the percentage of humidity
reduction of dampness indoors
creating a specific microclimate.

At the moment, among the inhabitants, the models of towel rails are used in the form of letters "P" and "M".

But, despite such preferences Our compatriots, in the market in a wide range, there are samples in the form of "ladder" and angular instances.

No one is secret that each product has its own characteristic features, fastening options and cost.

When choosing the goods you need, you need to take into account a large number of diverse factors.

Not always liked the model It can be ideal for mounting in your bathroom (about the partition for the premium bathroom septum in the article).

The most important point - These are the size of the room and, of course, the diameter of the pipes.

For a small bath, it is best to buy M-shaped and P-shaped dryers.

In large and spacious rooms It would be more profitable to look telescopic, rotating samples and "ladies".

Products can be like quite impressive sizes and very small. Especially, I want to note the angular structures.

Despite its compact sizes, they look very impressive. In addition, the functions assigned to them, these devices are performed on "excellent".

We will not argue about the beauty and attractiveness of the appearance of various heated towel rails, and more attention will be paid to fasteners with which they are installed.

Fittings (about crimping high pressure is written) play an important role in creating aesthetic appearance of the entire structure.

Especially pretty, the pipes hidden in the wall look like, while all the fasteners (and the fitting including) are also hidden.

However, this type of installation is considered complex, and it is used very rarely. More often, heated towel rails are attached to the external pipes. With this scenario, fasteners are open.

What are the fasteners need

If you decide to replace the towel drying device in the bathroom, you need to respond not only to the choice of material from which the product is made, but also to fastening elements.

Since the beauty and the functionality of the design will depend on this, and the general practicality of the entire drying system as a whole will depend on it.

Perhaps those who first encountered the assembly of the device do not quite understand what fittings are.

Information for unrecorded townors:

fittings are small details (most often chrome), without which it is very difficult to do during the assembly.

The choice of fasteners should exactly coincide with the design you like and with the material from which the heating device is made.

Optimal, the option is considered when the entire device is made from the same material.

Varieties of fittings

Extension section.
A representative of this category will assume you if necessary, adjust the distance from the heating device to the wall to which it will be attached.
These fittings act as a kind of bracket, for the connection of which you need at least several fasteners.

The elongated collapsible fittings are docked only before the fibers of the pipes.

This modification of the connectors has one insignificant flaw - they have too long thread.

However, this problem can be quickly eliminated. (Threaded fittings for copper pipes are described in the article).
How?

Excessive grooves can be quickly and easily removed (cut or apply).
Polymer Material Winding.
This type of fittings eliminates the possibility of the appearance on the adjusting compounds of the backlash.
If the winding is done correctly, it will take the kind that you need.

It is also worth taken into account the following fact: the aforementioned item will not compact over time.
Corner crane.
It is used to connect a tubular radiator directly to the central heating tube.
Depending on the size of the hollow products used, you can apply or standard modifications of the corners or choose the option that you consider more convenient.

With the help of angular fittings, you can change the direction of pipes at your discretion.
Tee.
This uncomplicated connecting element will become very useful to you if it becomes necessary to perform a number of branches from the central highway in various directions.
Through such a fitting, you can connect a direct heating device and a riser.

It is not necessary to forget to install bypass.

The bypass line will allow you to turn off the heated towel rail, while obstacles will not be created for the work of other heating devices.
Cross fittings.
With their help, the system is branching only in two different courses.
Fitting "American".
If you need to dismantle the design, it can be done with a peculiar crane called - "American".
It is very difficult to overestimate the use of this fastening part - you will not need to turn off the system completely.

It is enough just to overlap this device, unscrew the nut and remove the heating device.
Connections in this case are several species:
- nut - fitting,
- nut - nut,
- fitting - fitting.
Clamping device.
Implements similar functions as "American".
Thanks to this coupling, you can quickly disassemble and collect any connection.
This item has one feature - she has various diameters from different sides.

This property is used in the case when there is a need for docking pipes of various sizes. The thread at the tie crimping ring can be both outdoor and internal.
Reflectors.
These fittings do not allow moisture to leak to the attachment (how to eliminate leaks in the pipe with water).
Limiters.
With their help sealed pipes

When buying chrome fasteners for tubular radiators, you need to pay special attention to the quality of the thread.

About the high quality of the product can be judged by the uniform of application of grooves.

Another feature of non-chromed compounds - they are rapidly exposed to the rusting process.

The most correct decision will be the purchase of a heating device along with fittings.

Thus, you will relieve yourself from finding the necessary or exchange of already available, but unsuitable for the size of the details.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Since the heated towel rail is mounted directly into the water supply system, it is very important to do so that the device functions correctly.

If you make an error in the work, then not only drying itself can suffer, but also a water system.

In general, the installation process does not constitute anything difficult. And it consists, in the following: to one side of the device we bring water, and from the other end we provide its outflow.

All, on this work is completed. Are you interested in how much it will cost?
It does not make sense about specific figures.

Much depends on the complexity of the work produced, such as the selected coil, etc.

Pay attention to the limit distances between the wall and the heating device that must be adhere to:

5-7 centimeters - if the pipe diameter is greater than 2.5 centimeters
3.5-4 centimeters - with a cross-section of pipes less than 2.5 centimeters.

In order for the walls not to be exposed to extensive loads that can be provoked by thermal deformation hot, the design cannot be fixed hard.

The coil is hung on the mounting brackets.

After completing all the work, you need to check all the connections on the tightness. If you find leak, it needs to be immediately eliminated.

Highlights

The system allows us to use only those components that are made from the same metal.
Otherwise, electrolytic corrosion will inevitably happen.

To this not happen, only Teflon gaskets apply to compact compounds.
If you want the heated towel rail to work all year round, it must be connected to the hot water system.
Connecting a "Lestenka" model, it is better to use a lateral connection method.
In this case, it is necessary to observe the range distance - 50 cm.
Would you like to attach the heating device To the heating system?
For these purposes, a combined model is suitable.

It is worth knowing! With a riser, the device must be associated with "American".

Important moment! When installing installation work, all docking nodes must be carefully insulated. If you decide to "drown" into the wall, then subsequently eliminate leaks will be incredibly difficult.

How to make the installation of a heated towel rail in a new building with your own hands, look in the video.