What clothes are considered kosher for a Jewish woman? Why religious Jews wear special clothes

So now let's deal with the clothes of orthodox Jews.
If you think that they are all the same black and white, they are very mistaken. It turns out that only black hats exists 34 species, each of which carries information about their host. Knowing people in color stockings, the material of the Lapserdak and the shape of the head of the head of the head of the head can accurately indicate: it is Yerushmi, it is Hasid such an Admor, it is Bakhur, and this one has already married.

Rebbe, did Abraham walked in the Black Sirtuka?
"I don't know," Rebbe replied, "Will Abraham walked in a silk coat and Straiml. But I know for sure how he chose clothes. I looked like dressed non-Jews, and dressed differently.

2. Already in the biblical time, the Jews dressed differently than other peoples, and, in the opinion of the Jewish wise men, the people of Israel received the exit from Egypt due to the fact that he did not change his clothes. The Jewish people have scattered around the world since that time. But only the religious representatives, having met, will be able to learn in each other a fellow blood collection in the characteristic type of black clothes. According to the orthodoxes themselves: "The clothes are not so much hiding how much the essence of man is exposed. It is written: "Be modest to the Most High." We prefer dark suits, because they are modest, festive and tidy. That is why "in fashion" orthodox Jews - white shirts. That is why God-fearing Jews will never allow themselves to go outside in the sandals on Bosu's leg. "

3. There is basic clothing, a galachic, which is put on any Jew, who observes the commandment. This clothing includes head coating and citrate with 4 edges. The mandatory element is a quadrangular cape (poncho) with a head for the head and four brushes around the edges. The cape name, called Talite Kathan (or Arbecanfes), can be hidden under clothing, and it can wear over the shirt, but the brushes are always straightened on top of the trousers. It is made of white wool with black stripes or without them. The angles are strengthened with simple fabric or silk overlays, through the holes in the corners of the threads of the thread cycis - the brushes of the Torah Torah. If there are two (or one) threads in the brush, then, most likely, you are Radzinsky or Izhbiquky Hasid. The secret of manufacturing Thaylet - Blue paint, obtained from Mollusk Hillazon, was lost almost 2000 years ago and was re-opened at the end of the last century Rabbi Gershon-Khanoh from Radzin. However, his recipe most rabbis not recognized. Sefardov and many Hasidov at every corner are not one, but two holes. In addition, at some brushes, except for four (double) mandatory nodes, you can see from 13 to 40 small nodules on the thread turns. On this basis, you can also distinguish between members of different communities.

4. Traditional Jewish men's clothing is a fracture or a coat. The frak does not have pockets and fastened with the right to the left, like all the traditional Jewish men's clothing (according to non-Jewish standards "in female"), has a deep section and two buttons from behind (where the pryshastik).

5. Dressing gowns - as a rule, clothing for special occasions: a festive silk, embroidered with black in black pattern, a tish-robe for festive dinners, a robe of the cheapest fabric without lining - for classes in Eshiv or Koylele. In Shabbat and Yom Tov, many Hasidi wear a special black satin cloak - Bekechi. Both the hood, and a coat, and a Hasida bath must be pulled out a belt woven from a black silk thread or fabric.

6. Litvaki on weekdays can wear jackets. Hasidi wear hoods (racks), in which there are also differences, too. For example, lapels are pointed or rounded, or instead of the usual three buttons - six (two rows of three), it happens at Satmar Hasida. In addition to hoods there are still backers (bekesha), Zhugshtsy (Jube), etc. And all this is strictly black.

7. Pants. They can be either ordinary black, or to the knee - Ealb-Goyen. Short pants wear Hungarian Hasidi, they tie a shoelock with a lace under his knee and put on black golfs - ZOKN. In some communities on holidays or Shabbat, it is customary to change black golfs on white. Gare Hasida refuel ordinary golf pants. This is called "Cossack" golf (Kozak Zokn).

8. Clothes of non-black color are, mainly Hasida Regraza and some of the Bresllian and other hasides, residents of Meo Schaorim quarter. On weekdays, they look like this: Plush (Flying Plate) on the head, under it - Weiss Farmouth - White Knitted Kip with a tassel in the center of the dome. White shirt, woolen, caught, vest and caftan from a special fabric (caften). Cafling fabric - white or silver with black or dark blue stripes. They produce this tissue only in Syria and smuggle are delivered to East Jerushalim. In the Shabbat, a flying plate will change Chernobyl or ordinary string, and instead of a caftne with a silver background, Hasid will wear gold. On top of the Kaftan sometimes (and in the Shabbat and the holiday - must) throw a brown satin beke with an embroidered collar.

Photo from here

9. Let's return to the hats. On top of the chains (jams), the Jew almost always puts on a hat or cap. In rare cases, this may be a cap of an old European cut, such us usually, old Hasidi from Russia and Poland - Kasket (Cashket or Dashek). Natively similar to Kasket Gray sixkinny caps are children and teenagers in the families of Litvakov. On weekdays, most traditional Jews wear a black hat. According to the assignments of Hats, there are 34 main types, each of which indicates the origin, community affiliation and even the social status of the owner!

10. The traditional hat of hereditary Jerushali Jews is Plush. It is also called Flichker Teller - a popular flying plate or super. It has wide fields, but low tool - only 10 cm.

11. Other types of hats are made of velor (rather similar to velvet or even short-haired black fur), on hardness not inferior to ten-minute plywood. Among these hats, you can highlight the Samathe, one of the most expensive and luxurious styles, its owner is probably Hungarian Hasid.

12. Simple Litvak or Lubavich Hasid wear a Knech hat with a longitudinal chance. Litvak, which occupies a high position in the community, will change Knech on the road Hamburg (or Maftir-Gitl) - without chances and dents. Many Hasidi wear on weekdays the simplest of the hats - Capels, similar to Knech, but without the races of the Tuli and the bends of the fields. All of them are made of solid felt.

13. But the most "bright" and allocated from all the headdress - Straml! This is the most natural fur hat! Only Hasidi and only in Shabbat, Yom Tov, at the wedding or meeting with the rebea, put it. Moreover, their more than two dozen types! Usually, this is a black velvet kip, confused by fox or sobular tails. Wide and low, correct cylindrical shapes Actually, there are "Streml", low and wide non-stroke shapes, lochmatic-cosmatic are called "Chernobl", and the high-rod black coil cylindrical cap - "Spodik".
The price of the stray can reach thousands of dollars. Story Stramla began many years ago, when Nevuri ordered the Jews of one of the communities to wear an animal tail on the head. The purpose of this order was to humiliate and led by the Jew. The Jews had no choice, and they took the tails of animals and made hats from them.

14. Simple Straml wear Hungarian, Galicia and Romanian Hasidi, the shaggy Chernobl - Ukrainian, and the Spodik - Polish Hasidi. There are special styrem styers that wear not entire communities, but only their chapters, Rabeim. To this group, it is possible to attribute signed or Tsoyble - a high stray from the sobular fur, a hollow - something average between the SCO and Straml. Stramel wear only married men. The exception is only a few dozen of hereditary families in Yerushalaim. In these families, the boy first puts on Streniml per day of adulthood, Bar of Mitzvah is thirteen years old.
In 2010 Pamela Anderson, Animal Defender and Fashion Model, wrote a letter to the deputies of Knesset in the hope of persuading them to introduce to ban the sale of natural fur, and Orthodoxov refuse to carry these Stramlov ... :))

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Dear N.!

It is wonderful that you are interested in the rules of modesty, because it is very important, one can say, the fundamental part of the life of a Jewish woman and, ultimately, the whole Jewish people as a whole. Therefore, every woman needs to know which clothing is suitable, which is not very, but what is completely unacceptable.

First, we will dwell on the requirements of the Jewish law - consider the main provisions as they are given in the book "OZ WE-ADAR LEVUCH" ("Rides and dignity", the name - a quote from Misha 31:25), which can be called a kind of encyclopedia tsinki. - Jewish modesty.

First of all, we note: all the rules, except for those belong to the head covering, are the same for clothing of married and unmarried women. Little girls teach to modesty in different communities from different ages: with three or six to seven years. At twelve, the girl is considered an adult and should thoroughly know and follow these rules.

Length

The clothes must completely cover the clavicle, shoulders and, of course, the back. The sleeves should be long enough so that the elbows are covered in any position. Skirt - at least 10 cm below the knee. Pants, even "female", not put it. Special attention should be paid to the fact that there is no body or underwear between the upper part of the clothes and the skirt, even when we lean.

Transparency

Everything that should be closed should also not be shone through the clothes with any lighting. This is especially true of white or black things - it is necessary to check them before buying, by placing opposite the strong light source. If the transparent skirt or blouse is still purchased, you can wear a lower skirt or blouse-trico under it. Underwear, translucent through clothes, also looks immodest.

Blouse and Skirt Size

Another point to which you want to pay attention is whether the clothing is too adjacent or tight. There are gradations here. Blouses and sweatshirts should not be tight, but not necessarily completely hide the outlines of the shape. Sleeves can be silent, but do not trim. The lower part of the leg should be closed with stockings or tights of sufficient density (density depends on what is accepted in this community), and they, of course, tightly tighten the leg.

Maximum requirements are presented to the skirt / bottom of the dresses - from the belt and up to 10 cm below the knee. These parts of clothing must be dense enough and free to completely hide the shape of the hip and the bottom of the body. After trying the skirt, it is necessary to pull it into the width to make sure that there are a lot of centimeters on both sides and it will not trim the hips when walking. It is also necessary to take into account that any incision from the front or behind, even a small one ending below the knee is strictly forbidden that it automatically makes an unsuitable narrow pencil skirt, in which it is impossible to move without cut. In the skirts of direct cut to expand them, without making a cut, the special inserts from the fabric sometimes searched into the lower part. The best style (it is also classic) - a skirt that is evenly expanding from the waist. Some cloths are electrified and "stick" to the body. In this case, the lower skirt will help.

Color

The color of clothes and shoes is also very important. He should not be bright and screaming. This is especially true of red - it is impossible to be the predominant in the main parts of the clothes. Moderate options - burgundy, etc. - more acceptable, but it is necessary to be able to distinguish admissible or unacceptable shades and just in case it is better not to approach the boundary of the permitted. The immodests are also too large, catchy, allay and extravagant accessories, large inscriptions or drawings, excessive abundance of "gold" in decorations and sequins on clothes, explicitly inconsistency in the details of the costume of each other.

Headdress

Married Jewish (as well as a woman who was married in the past) should cover the head so that her own hair is not visible. The exact coverage boundaries require a separate study, and the type of headdress (a wig, cake, a hat, takes, etc.) is chosen depending on what is accepted in the community where a woman lives. As for unmarried girls, they are not obliged to cover their heads, but their hairstyles should be modest, the hair color is natural, the hair below shoulders should be collected in the tail or braid.

Is it possible to cover your head unmarried? As far as I know, it is not accepted. Of course, you can wear a headdress to protect against the sun or cold. There are also communities where girls cover their heads, uttering a blessing or burning Sabbath Candles, but in most communities it is not accepted.

In a word, in Jewish life, moderation is welcomed in clothes and total harmony in appearance and in all behavior. A Jewish woman should not attract attention to himself or a loud conversation / laughter, nor too catchy outfit, neither cutting "unresolutely" on the surrounding women. (Of course, if everything around is immodally, they can not be imitate, they should be worn according to the Jewish law, even if one thing makes a woman "sharply unlike others). Clothes and hairstyle should be neat and harmonious so that the entire appearance is perceived as a whole - internal content in a decent frame.

The laws of modesty are numerous and detailed, and every woman is obliged to know them and execute. For this, the Creator promises the greatest award in this world and in the future. Give Gd so that we all have allocated this award!

In the clothes of the ancient Jews a lot of borrowings from the robes of other nations. This is due to historical events.
Ancient Jewish costume resembled the clothes of Arabic nomadic tribes.
Moveing \u200b\u200bto the Valley of Jordan, the Jews retained the former simplicity of clothes. And although the first king of Israel - Saul did not like luxury, it was after the occurrence of his own state, the Israelis clothing became richer and diverse.

Illustration. On a man: Outerwear - ETD, shirt with wide sleeves.On a woman: wide bottom dress and upper swing clothing.

This was influenced by the rich prey, which Saul's warriors captured in the wars. After the murder of Saul, David became king. During this period, under the influence of the Phoenicians, the clothes of the Israelis became even more elegant, many decorations appeared. Tsar Solomon, ruled after David, surrounded himself a fabulous oriental luxury. The time of Israel's heyday came. Women's noble Jews at this time become especially rich. Rebells and intersublies split the kingdom into two parts. First in Judea, Assyrians were cast, and later, in 788 BC. - Babylonian. In suits of Jews, the characteristic features of Assyrian clothes appeared, and during the "Babylonian captivity" they almost do not differ from Babylonian. Later he changed again under the influence of Roman and Greek robes.

Illustration: Ancient Jews (High Priest, Levites)

Illustration. Nonble Jews

Men's suit

The clothes of noble men consisted of a lower woolen and upper linen shirt. The sleeves could be long or short.
Mandatory element of a male Jewish costume - a belt. Rich luxury belts were made of woolen or linen fabric, they were expanded by gold, decorated with gems, golden buckles. The poor wore leather or felt belts.
The outer clothing of wealthy Jews was two types. After returning from the Babylonian captivity to wear upper clothes with sleeves, knee-length, which swapped in front. The decoration of these cafts was distinguished by luxury. In the cold season, Kaftan was popular, mainly bright red, fierced with fur.
On the waist, the outerwear was decorated with a rich buckle, to which brushes were attached to the corners.
There was also a wide sleeveless clothing - a vocabulary. She could be solitary and double. The double vocabulary was two identical stripes of matter, which were stuck so that the seams turned out only on the shoulders, and both pieces of the fabric loosely descended from the back and in front. Such a vicarium with strings on the sides was the main robe of priests and was called Ephod.

Illustration. Jewish soldiers, Jewish king

Women costume

Before the reign of Solomon, even noble Jews went to simple modest clothes - which women wore in ancient times. With the reign of David, transparent Indian and Egyptian, as well as patterned Assyrian and purple finichest tissues appeared. They were very expensive, and therefore are only available to rich Jews, who did long and very wide, with many folds, clothes. To create on clothes, it was tightened with pigs and a variety of buckles.
A rich female costume consisted of several lower and upper clothes. Especially luxurious, he began during the reign of King Solomon. Lower clothes were long, she was trimmed by a beautiful border and sleeves. We wore it with an expensive belt. On top of it, the second clothing was laid on top of the exits - luxurious, dazzling white, with wide sleeves collected in the folds. The gate and the sleeves were decorated with precious stones and pearls, gold figures. This robe was rejected by a metal belt, and it was no longer long folds. On the belt were also decorations: gold chains, precious stones. Sometimes instead of the belts, women used wide embroidered pigs, to which small bags embroidered on gold chains were suspended. The upper clothes most often did from patterned or purple fabric, it was without sleeves or swinging with sleeves.

Illustration. Noble Jews

Hairstyles and hats

Long hair worn only young men. In men of the average, it was not accepted. But in later times, even young men with long hair began to be considered fellow. Lysin, both in men and women, was considered disgrace.
But it is prohibited by the beard from the Jews. Like the Assyrians, they treated her with great respect: the beard was one of the main signs of male beauty and dignity, as well as the difference between the free man. Behind the beard thoroughly worked, diminished with expensive oils and incenses. Catch someone's beard was considered to be a crucial insult. However, if any of the relatives died, the Jews existed the custom of tearing a beard on himself or even cut it off.
On the head, simple Jews wrapped woolen scarves (like Arabs). Or simply tied out the hair with a lace. To know broke the dressings - smooth or in the form of turbans, as well as hoods.
Noble women put on mesh caps, decorated with pearls and precious stones, on top of which threw a transparent long veil, wrapped around the whole figure. The threads of pearls, corals, gold plates were woven in braids.
A woman carefully cared about her hairstyle. Thick and long female hair Jews are very valued. Long braids descended along the back or wrapped around their heads; Notable young girls wore curls. The hair was devoted to expensive oils.

The history of the Jewish costume of the nineteenth and early 20th centuries is a story not only borrowing, this is the story of "Gascala", the educational movement, with which one way or other is connected by the Being of Jewish communities of that era. This is the history of prohibitions on wearing national clothes, to comply with national religious customs.

The whole system of life of Jewish towns (shttlov) and the clothes of the inhabitants were regulated by the strict prescriptions of Judaism. But a Jewish costume is in something and the costume of the area or country, where Jews lived: the two-year-haired migration imposed a print on the appearance of people. Of the truly traditional clothes, only a talisa, worn during prayer, on holidays and Saturdays remained as a result.

Bavarian costume XVIII century. Left Lapserdak.

The heavy and monotonous life of the shttlov changed only with the onset of the holidays. It is on holidays that religious prescriptions were carried out particularly strictly. Clothes of places are primarily the clothes of the poor. She was hung to such an extent that her original look and the style was difficult to determine. And although the main elements of clothing and the entire appearance were generally accepted, there were differences. Men wore beards and peys (long curls on the temples). Specified in Scripture: "They do not have to shave their heads and cut the edge of the beard of their own and make cuts on their body" (Levit, 21: 5). Following the covenants spoke about the connection with Gd, about loyalty to him. "So that you remember and performed all the commandments of mine and were saints before B-Gm Your ..." (Numbers, 15:40). The head of the man certainly covered black ermolka (Kipa). Kipie in Hebrew is the "dome". Ermolki had two types: with a flat bottom and low, up to 10-12 centimeters, tullee and flat, stitched from wedges. Kipa often sewn from velvet, but could be made of any other tissue. Could be embroidered with gold thread around the edge. Wearing piles was charged with the Middle Ages. On top of the piles were put on ordinary hats. According to the testimony of P. Wengerova, left for the rarity colorful and detailed "household" memories, in the 1830-1840 he headdress a headdress on weekdays was a hat with side valves. In the warm season, they usually climbed up, and in the winter they fell on the ears. It is necessary for the forehead and on the sides of such a cap were triangles from fur. The cap is unknown why, called "patchwork"; Perhaps due to valves. Perhaps its name - Lappenmutz - says that she first appeared in Lapland, where we are shaking with similar hats. At least in the "memories of grandmother" Wengerova speaks about it. The most common male headdresses in the shttlah in the second half of the XIX century - the card and the hat with wide fields. By the end of the century, the Jews often wore bowlers, and especially wealthy people went even in cylinders. Clothing has been associated with class distinctions. Scientists - Torah interpretors - belonged to the least secured part of the population of the town. Abram Parenn, Poet, teacher, literary critic, writes in his memoirs: "They dressed (interpreters), unlike the plebeans, in black satin or china with velvet collars, zipuani and fur with velvet riding caps (Strameli). Zipuana and Streymeli (Stroyml - in other transcriptions) were often dilapidated, which suffered inheritance from the ancestors. " Fur hats of this kind were the element of the national costume of the Bavarian peasants of the XVIII century. In general, many details of the XIX century Jewish costume are strongly reminded by German clothing of the previous century. Here and fur hats of various styles, and a female handkerchief, thrown on the shoulders and crossed on the chest.

Yehuda Peng. "Old tailor".

Particularly important from a religious point of view, the Talis was considered part of men's clothing. Talisa was a rectangular piece of wool tissue white with black stripes along the edges and brushes. He was put on the time of prayer or on holidays.

"And Mr. Moses said, saying:" Announced the sons of Israel and tell them that they make their brushes at the edges of their clothes ... and in the brushes, which at the edges, inserted threads from blue wool. And they will be in the brushes in you so that you, looking at them, remembered all the commandments of Mr. "" (numbers, ch. 15).

The so-called small talis is also a rectangle with brushes along the edges, but with a hole for the head and not stitched on the sides. As a rule, he was worn under a shirt. However, on the paintings of Yehudi Foam, the teacher Stegala, we see a small talis, put on the vest. Wearing a small Talisa testified that the person honors the sacred commandments not only during the prayer, but also throughout the day.

The influence of the traditions of the local population, next to which the Jews lived at the moment, was obvious on clothes. P. Hungarian recalls about this. "Men wore a white shirt with sleeves that were tied with ribps. The throat shirt passed into something like a postponed collar, but he did not stark and did not have lining. And the throat, the shirt also tied white ribbons. (Similar to the cut of the shirt is inherent in the Lithuanian national costume. - M. B.) The method of tie ribbon paid special attention, was also a special chic in choosing a material for these ribbons that resembled tie. Even older men from wealthy families often showed cautious coquets in the tying of these bows. Only then appeared black cervical scarves. But in families where the value of tradition was attached, cervical scarves were rejected. Pants reached the knees and also lacquered with ribps. White stockings were rather long. Worked out into low leather shoes without heels. At home they wore no fruct, but a long bathrobe from expensive woolen matter. People have dressed the robe from the half of the seven, and on holidays - from dense wool, and very poor were put on the summer bathrobe from a nanny, cotton material into a narrow blue strip, and in winter from a dense gray material. This bathrobe was very long, almost to the ground. However, the costume would be incomplete without a belt around the thighs. He was treated with special care; After all, he was considered the fulfillment of a religious commandment, since it was symbolically separated by the upper body from the lower, which carried out rather unclean functions. Even the lands of the lower class were put on the holidays silk belt. "

Jan Matteyka. Jewish clothes XVIII century.

The casual wear of the Jews of the second half of the XIX century has not had little difference from the fact that they wore other men in the Russian Empire. It is enough to see the drawings of I. S. Shchedrovsky, V. F. Timma or a provincial merchant portrait; There are the same bekeshes (Rod Sultuka on cotton with a fur collar), the same cards, vests. Craftsmen and merchants (the main professions of the towns of the town), as a rule, wore shirts of the eye, refilled in pants boots, vests and cards. Short pants, refilled in high white stockings to the knees, and shoes were characterized for more orthodoxy in the religious sense of the part of the Jewish population. There was a popular Lapserdak - outerwear with challenges, cutting in the waist, as a rule, on a lining, with long floors that achieved the middle of caviar, and often ankle. Interestingly, Lapserdak in the form exactly repeated the form of the Redingness of the first quarter of the XVIII century. The fact that Hungarian calls a bathrobe was, in fact, bekeke. For a long time, the inhabitants of the town were wary of long fur tails. Dining according to a generally accepted fashion, people used the most cheap fabric - lustry, china, nancoo. Mention of this in the set is available at Sholom Aleichem.

Cloak-Delia. Engraving XVIII century.

The royal prohibitions on wearing national clothing have provided the strongest influence on the appearance of the Jews. A. Papper is quoted by one such document: "Strombis is prescribed to the Jews to dress in a German dress and is forbidden to wear beard and peys; Women are pregnant to shave the head and cover such a wig. " The author of the book "From the Nikolaev era. Jews in Russia "A. Parenna writes:" For the first time, restriction on traditional clothing was introduced in Russia in 1804. For a long time, this position in a settling line was practically not observed, although it was repeatedly confirmed in the legislative order. In 1830-1850. Wearing national clothes dealt with significant fines. " The penalty for wearing a wig reached 5 rubles, which at that time was a significant amount. How significant was this amount, you can understand, comparing the prices of products with it: Turkey cost 15 kopecks, goose - 30 kopecks, a large rooster - 30 kopecks. F. Candele in the "essays of times and events" continues this topic: "In 1844, the tax was not on sewing, but for the wearing of Jewish clothes. In each province, they set their prices, and in vigilant, for example, they took from the merchants of the first guild to fifty rubles per year for the right to maintain a traditional costume, with a ten rubles, and from artisans - five. For one only Yermolku on the head relied with each Jew from three to five rubles with silver. "

However, the trend of following the citywide Russian fashion by the end of the XIX century increased. This was due to penetration into the Jewish environment of educational ideas. "At first it was only an external imitation," the same F. Candel clarifies - and at the beginning of the nineteenth century, "Berliners" appeared in Warsaw (followers of Gaskala, which went from Berlin, the first period of "Gascaly" began in Prussia in the second half The XVIII century), which were trying to eradicate the "distinctive signs" to the variables of clothing and appearance. They talked in German or in Polish, shaved beard, strigley petes, wore short German futures and, of course, allocated on Jewish streets among the Warsaw Hasida in their long, to toe, clothes. Orthodox Jews unanimously hated these obvious heretics - "apicoresis" for a gross violation of centuries-old traditions. "

Woman in wig.

Jews who left for commerce in other cities, dressed in European fashion and shaved that they did not prevent them from preserving the facilities to tradition. "So far, I have not forgotten his strange figure," recalls A. Parenna, "a fat man with a big belly, with a shaved chin, dressed in a short coat, under which a traditional breastplate with" vision threads "(Talis Katn) was seen. It must be said that the appearance of these people initially caused the fierce perturbation of the townships. A. I. Parenna writes: "Father, turning to Belostok among progressive people and having visited the border where he had the opportunity to get acquainted with the culture of German Jews, changed in his views on a lot in Jewish life, and this inner change received an external expression in his German clothes, and this clothing made him in the hoovers of a terrible cross ... He was a shoe dressed in a short fur tun and long pants; The beard was trimmed, and long blond hair fell on the neck curled to curls. The oncoming came to him closely, peered into his face - and went away, pretending to do not recognize him. " The old men mowed the former dress, popular in their youth. Sholom Aleichem has a curious description: "He was dressed in Saturday: in a silk rustling cape sleeveless, bowed to the old, but the satin sticking caftan, in the fur hat, in stockings and shoes." Such capes were worn in Poland in the XVI century, but similar robes (winters) existed in the European fashion in the 1930s of the XIX century.

Jan Matteyka. Clothing of the Jews of Poland XVII century.

Century-old settings were considered immutable for women's clothing. For example, wearing wigs. Woman leaving married, covered her head with a wig. However, at the end of the XIX century, apparently because of the fines, wigs began to replace scarves, lace or silk shalms. The handkerchief was linked under the chin, sometimes leaving the ears open. Instead of a wig in the 1830s, a kind of lining made of fabric under the color of the hair was carried under a cap, about which there is a mention in the "Cavalry life essays" V. Krestovsky: "Until then, as a good old-conquered Jew, for the lack of a wig Hinged her gray hair under an old overlay from a spiner from years, once a black atlas with a sample stitched by the middle of the grooves and over this pads, a tulle sharp with wide bows and punch roses were spinning. " At Sholol-Aleichema in the "Stempnu" novel, the heroine is shown as follows: "Rohla has already been tied and spinning at the last fashion model of the local ladies. It was a silk dress of heavenly blue color with white lace and wide sleeves, which then wore in Madenovo, where fashion usually delays for several years. Through the openwork silk handkerchief thrown on her head, the dummy and braids were shone ... True, other people's braids; Her own blond hair has long been shining, damaged from human eyes forever, forever. She then pulled on themselves, as usual, the whole set of ancillary decorations: a few pearl threads, a long gold chain, brooch, bracelets, rings, earrings. "

Claymers. Start XX century.

There is some discrepancy with generally accepted fashion and secular rules. However, we must not forget that the shttlah had their own laws. One of them read: "The husband must dress below its capabilities, to wear children with their capabilities, and to wear his own opportunities." This explains the indispensable abundance of decorations on women, for they judged by their appearance about the well-being of the family.

Interestingly, in the XVI and XVII centuries, Vaad (Poland and Lithuania, the Poland and Lithuanian), not once forbade the excessive luxury in the clothes of the Jews, so that they did not stand out among the local population. "It should be noted that the fight against the luxury of Jewish costumes was the best representatives of the Jewish communities of that time," says S. Dubnov, one of the authors of the "History of the Jewish People". - Krakow Kagal has published in 1595 a number of rules regarding the simplification of clothing and eliminating luxury, especially in women's costumes, setting a cash penalty for violating these rules. But regulatory was not successful. " In general, the kagal authorities and Vaada, according to data published in the same "History of the Jewish People", widespread vigorously against luxury in clothing; Special envoys even devils into the communities - in order to prevent dear dresses, especially from the matter with threads of gold and silver, and sable hats. The preserved pinkos (protocol books) of individual communities (OPAOVA, WATLISA, stock exchange) indicate that Kagagaga has published every few years, under the threat of excommunication, ruling against luxury in clothing, which "ruins communities and individuals, causes enmity and envy on the parties by infrared "

It is impossible not to mention another wedding tradition: the girl necessarily closed his face veil. This is explained by the fact that before the marriage of the groom should have raised a veil and look at the bride to avoid mistakes. This ritual is rooted in Torah: Yaakov promised, as it is known, Rachel's wife, but given Lyia. Among the ban on luxury in clothing already in the nineteenth century, there was such: "On wedding clothes, do not put on the dress any lace. The cost of the top of the groom, i.e., the Sultuka and Sintels should not exceed 20 rubles. For the bride, the dress and the upper cape should not be more expensive than 25 rubles silver. "

In Rosh A-Sean, it was assumed to ride into a new or white, so that the new year was light. Belala walked in the "burning lights" read: "Everyone puts on something new: who is a light hat, who is a tie, who is a suit with a needle ... Mom also dressing up in a white silk blouse and flies to the synagogue with an updated soul."

Focused clothes and men and women on the right left. It was believed that the right side - the symbol of wisdom - was imposed on the left - the symbol of an evil spirit - and guarded the modesty and righteousness of a woman. The neckline was not encouraged. On top of the dress was usually put on the apron, which, in addition to the usual destination, was considered a defense against a bad eye. According to P. Wengerova, "the apron was an immutable requirement of a full dress. He was worn out on the street and, of course, during all the festivities. He was long and reached the head of the skirt. Wealthy women bought a motley silk material or a gem white battered, embroidered with velvet colors or embroidered with the finest patterns of golden thread. Women were ridicked by woolen fabrics or color scenes. "

In the second half of the XVIII century among the Jews of Belarus, Ukraine, Lithuania and Poland, Hasidism was widespread - the religious and mystical branch of Judaism. He gained great popularity among the poor. But the rabbis of the traditional sense (they were called Missageds) in every way fought for influence on the flock. Tsadaki and Hasidsky, and Missaged's sense continued to regulate every moment of human life. In the 50s of the XIX century, A. Parenna wrote: "The Bobruisian Hasida Rabbi published Bulla, who was under the fear of Herima (Sherim or Herime - a curse, excommunication) revealed to local Jews to the wearing of crinolines. Mount It was still enhanced with envy to neighbors and girlfriends of the Misnagedsky sense, for whom the order of the guille's edge was not obligatory and which therefore continued to decide in their crinolines. " But in the 1840s, Missaheda was still resolutely against any fashionable innovations ...

Postcard to Rosh A-Sean. 1914.

In the second half of the XIX century, at the request of the enlightenment and, therefore, assimilation, rich women, regardless of religious regulations, began to dress on the pan-European fashion. She did not touch the director. Already in the 1870s, Krnolina was changed by tournaments, the waist fell below, the corset was changed. He began to pull not only the waist, but also hips. Clothing of this kind, with narrow sleeves, the tight bodice and tournament was found only in a very wealthy part of the population practically abandoned the traditions. In general, women preferred to sew dresses in fashion 10-20 years ago. And at the beginning of the twentieth century, ladies out of rich Jewish families are already dressed, following the latest Parisian "prescriptions": you wear huge hats, decorated with flowers, ribbons with bows, etc. Bella Chagall did not forget how on Saturday, on a festive day, their cooking dressed : "So she corrected the last fold on the dress, caught a hat with flower and a proud course went to the door."

Enjoyed, however, popularity and an unusual headdress, which Sholom Aleichem calls the damp (on Idisch - the pit). His married women were put on holiday. It consisted of seven parts, was made from the brocade, it was embroidered with pearls, but at the same time one part remained nothing decorated. It was believed that complete joy was impossible until the Jerusalem Temple lies in the ruins. P. Wengerova is given a more detailed description of the dummy: "In the rich, he was a substantial part of the state. This headdress, a black velvet bandage, strongly reminded Russian Kokoshnik. The edge carved with a bizarre zigzag, decorated with large pearls and diamonds. The bandage was worn on the forehead over a tightly adjacent chepz, called "Copf". In the middle of a cup, a bow of seal tape and colors was mounted. On the head of the ear to the ear, lace friction was drawn, sheathed closer to the eyes and temples with small diamond earrings. This precious bandage was the main part of the female dowry. "

In a word, the differences between the costumes of the Jews and the clothing of the local population at the end of the nineteenth century were insignificant. The costume of Jews now was different from the clothes of indigenous people only by the fact that in European everyday life he arose a hundred years earlier. Naturally, in the 1850-1870s of the 19th century, the Redingot of the mid-XVIII century looked strange - just like shoes with stockings and short pants. Clothing of the Jews of the middle of the XIX century, as already mentioned, resembles the costume of the Bavarian peasants of the end of the XVIII century. The desire to maintain and observe the traditions, wearing the clothes of the fathers and gave rise to some archaic in clothing. In the late XIX - early twentieth century, the Jews of the parcels were delighted according to a general fashion. Lapserdak, for example, was replaced by a long, almost to his knees, a surtuk. Nevertheless, these traditional lapsdocks, high-tulle hats, Streml caps can be seen today on Hasidah. It is curious: the current orthodox Jews often wear long fur tails instead of lapserding or black raincoats, cover the 1960s ... traditions are preserved, refracted sometimes in the most strange way and, yielding novelty, perpetuated sometimes gray antiquity.

Who can call the basic accept, what differ from other nations of the Jews?

The National costume. The description of it and will be represented by your attention in the article, since it is the clothes that always highlights the Jew from the crowd.

Jews are the people of the Westernity Group, related to Arabs and Amharts (Ethiopams).

Yes, as it will seem strange, the Arabs and Jews dislike each other and the Jews are close to each other - close relatives, approximately as Russians with Poles.

However, religion, culture as a whole and the clothes in particular these peoples are not at all similar.

The traditional clothes of the Jews are very colorful and highlights representatives of this nation from the crowd.

People are modern and far from religion - and the manner of Jews to dress is entirely based on religious performances - it may seem ridiculous and some kind of old-fashioned, "anachronic".

Black fructures, hats, belts - these items of the Jewish costume became a "business card" of the real Judea. A little less known Ermolka - a round happy.

However, this is not all the details of the Jewish wardrobe.

Photo in the article demonstrates us the image of a real Jew, dressed in all the rules of his people.

Jewish ideology in clothes

National suits of the peoples of Jews leave their roots in deep antiquity.

For centuries, they constantly changed, and the reason for this is the desire of the Jews to disguise (after all, in many countries it was forbidden to live at all or was allowed to settle in strictly allotted places) or assimilated.

The last trend appeared at the beginning of the XIX century: the educated representatives of the Jewish people decided to change their traditional outfit for European clothing; They began to dress in the fashion of those times - so in Jewish use they included the longest black fructures and hats.

Later, this style was "wasteled" and became one of the options for the "traditional Jewish" apparel, while in the whole rest of the world he came out of fashion.

But in this transformation there is a certain meaning - a national, ideological and even religious.

Its principle is reflected in the ridiculous anecdote.

Allegedly at the beginning of the XIX century, one of these educated Jews approached rabbi, like the Keeper of ancient piety, and, having decided to "Pokholt", asked: "Rebbe, and what did the forefather of our Abraham dressed?".

Rabbi replied calmly: "My son, I don't know what Abraham was dressed in a silk robe or stray; But I know for sure how he chose his clothes: he watched, as not Jews dress up, and dressed differently. "

Indeed, the impertons of the centuries Jews sought to differ from all other peoples and did it with greater fanaticism than all other eastern peoples.

The pagan religion of the Jews still stubbornly refuse to call "paganism" (although, if strictly according to science, this "paganism" can be recognized unless the Jewish faith, since it practically did not undergo mixing with foreign cults).

Jewish music, cooking, behavior, clothing - all this should always be not like the surrounding, but how exactly it should look like, the tenth business.

Even kashrut - a list of culinary (and not only) dogmas - many orthodox Jews are interpreted only as follows: "Kashrut was introduced in order to distinguish the Jew from not Jew." Similarly, with circumcision ...

Therefore, there is nothing surprising in the fact that the Western European costume of the start of the beginning of the century today is officially considered traditional Jewish clothing.

The national costume of Jews in Russia may seem like something strange and unusual, but these are the traditions of another people who need to be respected.

Ermolka

This is the same round hail.

Jews from the former USSR were accustomed to believe that its name is educated from the Russian name Ermolai. But when they come to Israel, the locals explain them that the cap is so called from the expression "Yeere Malka" - "Fearing Lord". That is, wearing Yermolki, in theory, means that its owner is deep and sacred in God.

How to choose an ermolka?

The choice of ermolki - the task is not so simple, as it seems uninitiated. In Israeli stores, they are sold as ordinary caps - on the shelves are decomposed on the shelves of various sizes, materials, colors and styles. However, what exactly will the buyer choose - depends on the features of its religion and mental mood. For example, Hasidi does not recognize velvet and knitted ermolks. Religious Jew acquires a cap of that style, which is worn in his community. This is also a reflection of the principles of Judaism: with third-party observers it seems to be a monolithic, uniform cult, but in fact it is divided into dozens of currents differing in dogmas, rules, clothing, etc. The relationship between many currents is far from friendly.

Cape

The national costume of Jews includes cape. In the Jewish, it is called "Catan" or "Arbecanfes". Like Ermolka, this is also a mandatory attribute of a Jewish costume. It is a piece of quadriginal matter with a hole for the head and four tassels (citrate) at the edges. Cape can be worn under clothing or putting on top, like a shirt, but the brushes are always located on top of the trousers. Each brush has eight threads. Here, too, there are elements characteristic of various currents of Judaism.

The most interesting and even mysterious part is one (there may be two of them) thread in the brush, painted in blue color. It means that the owner of this cape is Radzinsky or Izhbiquky Hasid. Regarding the origin of such threads there is a legend. It is believed that blue paint - "Thailelet" - was present on Jewish clothes in ancient times, but two thousand years ago her recipe was lost. At the end of the 19th century, the Hasid Rabbi Gershon-Khanokh received Thailelet again, but his recipe was not recognized by the majority of representatives of the Jewish public as the "same" paint. Therefore, this Thailelet remained belonging to only the specified Jews.

In fact, attempts to restore an ancient recipe and get Thaylet were assumed to many Western and Jewish scientists, starting with the Middle Ages. Archaeologists, who studied the remnants of ancient factories, and modern chemists, contributed their contribution to this case.

Cycite, according to religious canons, must wear all men who have reached the 13th age. This means the onset of majority (Bar Mitsva). Wearing brushes testifies that the boy is already able to respond for his actions and participate in adult affairs, including reading and discussing Torah in the synagogue.

"Kasket" and a hat

The national costume of Jews necessarily includes a headdress. To wear Ermolku is obliged every religious Jew. However, it is usually hidden under the second headdress. It may be a hat, a hat or "kasket" (he "dashek") - the cap of the old style. The latter is especially popular among Russian and Polish Jews, including Hasidov.

But the most famous traditional black hat is known. Her Jews are worn on weekdays. Do not think that all hats are the same: according to her appearance about the personality of its owner, you can tell even more than by passport. The size of the hat, its position on the head, the nature of the hall and other elements indicate that the Hat owner belongs to which the course of Judaism and even what social status has.

Stramble

Straight is the third type of headdress, which is included in the national costume of Jews. But it is distributed only with Hasidov. Straight - cylindrical fur hat. They also have more than two tens of types. At the same time, three large groups are highlighted: the styling itself is a wide and low, right form; Chernobyl is just a low, more free form; And smoke is a very high fur hat. Straimbel Hasidi is put on only in solemn events - in the sabotage, on the wedding and other holidays, during a visit to the rabbi. There are also types of Strikes that wear only heads of communities.

Tie and beard

There are elements of clothing that recognize only some Jewish communities. One of them is a tie. It is the prerogative only Litvakov. But Hasidi ties Lyuto hate; This is what they explain the fact that the first action in the tie tie is the zealing of a node having a cross shape. Everything that is connected with the cross, the zealous Jew is supposed to hate.

Another part of "clothes" is a beard. Some Jews go purely shamened, others carefully cut the beard, but Hasidi do not recognize any modification of the beard at all, so they have the most thick and black among all the Jews.

Frak

What else can enter the national costume of Jews? In some communities (for example, Litvakov), such an old-fashioned European concepts are preserved, element of the wardrobe like a fracture. It is also black, long and has no pockets. Interestingly, the buttons on the Thrake (and on any Jewish clothes) fastened so that the right floor covered the left - that is, from the point of view not the Jew, "female". Frak Jews put on, as a rule, during the holiday.

What does the national costume of Jews look like?

The photo in the article brightly demonstrates us colorful and unusual for a simple European style of clothing.

Many this may seem strange, but these are Jews and special. They are firm in their views and are true to their customs.

And these features would not interfere with each people!

Eastern European Jewish female costume.

Women of the old faith dressed in long dresses of a kind of cut. In the design of the corsage there were lace, ruffles and folds, beautiful hand embroidery. Magnificent sleeves, collected by the shoulder and gradually narrowed, on the wrist fastened to a button. The form they resembled Baranhe's leg, for which they got the same name. The rack's gate tightly covered the neck and was decorated with lace. A few rows of lush rims went along the dresses. The dresses skirt was a straight front, and the back was going to the folds that went into the loop. The waist was drawn up with the belt, which was created from the same fabric as a dress, or leather. So there was a fashionable national costume of the Jews in the last decades of the 19th century and in the early years of the 20th century.

On the head - a wig, on top of which a lace cap and Sternichl, holding the head covered - a shiver. The neck is a pearl necklace in two rows. On the chest (color insertion on the blouse) - Bruster from the motley and bright fabric.

Dolls in folk costumes number 73. Eastern European Jewish female costume. Photo of dolls. Since Jewish culture was a purely urban, the Jewish was not tissue to matter on the dress for themselves, but enjoyed purchased. Fabric on skirts and sweatshirts of women depended on their wealth and local fashion.

The main jewel of the costume was a kind of manica - brustic.

Skirt on which two apron is wearing in front and rear. The ornament on the tissues, as a rule, was floating, repeated the one that could be seen on expensive European tissues.

At the end of the XIX century, yielding the influence of the city fashion, the Jewish, especially wealthy, began to wear hats, and they demanded hairstyles. Then the wigs appeared in everyday life. Initially, they were not made out of hair, it was a primitive imitation of hairstyles. Currently, wigs are constantly carrying women only in ultra-docouling Jewish communities.

The preferred color for the summer costume was white. Winter clothes were usually dark shades of blue or brown. Different costumes have different age categories and depending on the role of a woman in the family. It was very rare to see a woman dressed in a bright dress (for example, green and red). Older women could go out in gray-blue or beige clothing.

Series numbers on sale here

In addition to dresses, the national costume of Jews also allowed the blouses and skirts.

The aprons in women served not only their economic goal, but were also considered a protective element, protection against the evil eye. Festive alarms were decorated with embroidery, thoroughly starkled and buried.

Flaws - black shoes with high-top shores, covered top and dressed on stockings related manually and kenned with the help of garters at the knee level or higher.

TAFILALETET REGION, MOROCCO, FIRST HALF OF THE 20TH CENTURY
Cotton and Silk, Silk-Thread Embroidery
Gift of Barones Alix De Rothschild, Paris
Gift of Musée de L "Homme, Paris

Women "s dress

Sweden (Originally Germany), 1850s
Silk Taffeta, Silk Velvet, Cotton Lace
Lent By Judith Goldstein, Née Hoffmann, Stockholm, Sweden

Baby "s coats

Wedding Outfit.

Sandor, Iraqi Kurdistan, 1930s
Raw Silk, Silk-Thread Embroidery
PURCHASED THROUGH THE GIFT OF JOSEPH BOXENBAUM, HERZLIYA

Right: Henna Dress

Iraq, Baghdad, 1891
Silk Satin Weave, Silk and Lace Ribbons, Tinsel Embroidery
This dress Belonged to Dakhla Rachel Mu`allem, Baghdad 1880-Teher 1960, Married at the Age of 11.
Dakhla Fled to Iran in 1948; WHEN HER CHILDREN ESCAPED KHOMEINI "S Regime for London, They Took The Dress with Them.
Gift of Dakhla "S Daughter, Naomi Inbar, Ramat Gan.

Left: Wedding Dress

Iraq, Baghdad, 1880s
Brocaded Silk, Silk Ribbons, Tinsel Embroidery, Hand Sewn
Gift of Mazli F. Iny, New York, in Memory of Her Mother Mas`uda Mathalon

...............
MODESTY IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER
Although Emphasizing The Breast, These Dresses Were Nonetheless Considered A Symbol of Female Modesty. In 1906, Rabbi Yosef Hayyim, One Of The Leaders of the Baghdad Jewish Community, Even Criticized Women Who Abandoned This Modest Style in Favor of Open-Coat Dresses.

Clothes of Rabbi Hayyim Moshe Bejerano Efendi

Turkey, Early 20th Century
BroadCloth, Gilt-Metal-Thread Couched Embroidery
Gift of Diamant Baratz Béjarano and Arnaldo Béjarano, Courbevoie, France

"The Great Dress" (Berberisca or Al Kesswa L "Kebira)"

FEZ, Morocco, Early 20th Century
Silk Velvet, Gilt Metal Cords and Braided Ribbons
Gift of Perla Ben-Soussan, France Gift of Armand Amselem, France

Woman's coat.

Bukhara, Uzbekistan, Late 19th Century
Brocaded Silk; Lining: Silk and Cotton, Ikat-Dyed

...............
Explosion of Color
An The Dizzying Colors of Ikat Displayed Here Highlight The Garment. Due to Its Strong Smell, The Use Of Ikat Was Initially Considered Repugnant, And Was Exclusive A Jewish Practice; However As The Process Was Perfected It Came to Be a Highly Esteeemed Specialty.

Jewish Woman "S Wrap (Izar) And Face Veil (Khiliyye)

Baghdad, Iraq, Late 19th - Early 20th Century
Silk, Gilt Metal Thread; Veil: Horsehair.
Gift of Helene Simon and Hanina Shasha, New York, in Memory of Their Mother, Louise Zilka Née Bashi
Gift of Mazli Nawi, Ramat Gan

...............
The Most Famous of the Baghdad Workshops Belonged to Master Weaver Menashe Yitzhak SA "AT, Nicknamed Abu-Al-Izan (" Father of the Izar ") Due to the fabric Wraps in Which He Specialised. One Year After SA" At Immigrated to Israel , The Izar Industry In Baghdad Came to An End.

Jewish Woman "S Wrap (Chader) and Face Veil (Ruband)

Herat, Afghanistan, MID-20th Century
Cotton, Netted Silk-Thread Embroidery
PURCHASED THROUGH THE GIFT OF DR. Willy and Charlotte Reber, Valbella, Switzerland

Mourning Scarves.

UZBEKISTAN, EARLY 20TH CENTURY
Silk, Reserved Dye Printing

Woman "S Attire

Mashhad, Iran, Early 20th Century
Silk, Silk Velvet, Cotton Satin, Gilt-Metal-Cord Embroidery
PURCHASED THROUGH THE GIFT OF BRUCE KOVNER, NEW YORK

...............
From Paris to Persia
WHEN QUAJAR SHAH NASIR AL-DIN AND HIS WIFE Embarked on a Journey to Europe in 1873, They Were Inspired by The "Ballerina" Skirts The Saw in Paris. Upon Returning To Iran, They Brought With Them A New Style Of Dress, Characterized by Heavily-Pleated Short Skirts and Tight Pants

TUNIS, TUNISIA, EARLY 20TH CENTURY
Satin Silk, Gilt-Metal-Cord Embroidery, Cotton-Thread Embroidery On Tulle

Women "s Festive Attire

Tripoli, Libya, Early - MID-20th Century
Wrap: Artificial Silk; Blobuse: Chiffon Silk; Belt: Gilt Silver
Gift of Louise Djerbi, Jerusalem in Memory of Luly Raccah
Gift of Lionelle Arbib in Memory of His Grandmother IDA Arbib Née Nahum Lent By The Habib Family, Milan

Bridal Jacket.

ISFAHAN, IRAN, EARLY 20TH CENTURY
SILK VELVET, SILVER TINSEL EMBROIDERY

Married Woman "S Outfit

Salonika, Greece Early 20th Century
SILK, BROCADED AND RIBBED, COTTON LACE
Gift of Esther Jeanne Haelion Ben-Susan, Paris in Memory of the Mother Gracia,
Gift of Flora and Shlomo Perahia, Claire and Robert Saltiel, Paris, In Memory of Their Mother Rivka Perahia Née Cohen
Gift of Vicki Sciaky, Tel Aviv, In Memory of Her Husband Haim Joseph and Her Son Joseph Haim Sciaky,