Repairs Design Furniture

The correct installation of the outdoor unit split system. Installing the air conditioner with your own hands. Choosing a place of installation

The modern office is perhaps it is quite difficult to imagine without air conditioning. And private consumers are increasingly installing split systems in their homes and apartments. If you also decided to follow their example, then surely you can do the installation process yourself. However, to begin with, it is necessary to familiarize themselves with the technology and some principles of installation, this will be discussed below.

Installation features

Before starting the installation of the split system, you must familiarize yourself with some nuances of such work. By purchasing the appropriate technique, you are pretty spent, so you should be interested in the question of how to save in the system of operation of the system. For example, if thermal contact will be maintained between hot and cold zones, it will contribute to an increase in electricity consumption, because the compressor will need to drive heat inside the system, as well as pump the refrigerant.

Garbage and dust inside are unacceptable. The vacuum pump is a high-tech device. If the crumb of metal falls there, it will bring out the equipment. Installation of split-system should be accompanied by ensuring complete tightness. Even if the most minor slots remain, then light-boiling liquids will be ready to evaporate.

The outer block is located below the internal one. This will facilitate the operation of the compressor, because the thermosphonic effect will work. It is explained by the fact that the heated fluid will rush up. If you do not consider this requirement, the compressor will overcome the physical forces, and the electricity consumption will again increase. Dismantling-installation of the split system can be performed independently. But for this, the outer block must be placed in a convenient location. In addition, he must be in the shade. If it is subjected to additional heating, then the costs will be slandered again on the shoulders of the owner.

Installation of the drainage tube is also accompanied by compliance with certain rules. It should not be bending upstairs. If the position of this node is similar to U, then it will cause the source of the infection, because the condensate will be a place for the occurrence and development of fungus and microbes whose disputes are in the air.

Types and installation options

Installation of split-system in Azov and other cities can be implemented. Prices for such work are presented below. But if you plan to do yourself yourself, you should know that air conditioners are performed with separate blocks, one of them will be outdoor, while the other is internal. The latter is an evaporator, but the first is a condensing compressor. These names are conditional, because modern models can cool and heat the room. In the latter case, the refrigerant is condensed inside the block in the apartment, and evaporates outside. Therefore, the internal and outdoor unit is isolated.

Considering the expensive models, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a possibility of connecting to one outer block of several internal. Each of them can work separately, heat and cooling. Such a system with high cost at the time of purchase in operation will be more economical, because the heat exchange between the rooms does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner.

Reviews about when it is better to start mounting. Opinions of homemade masters about the features of preparation for work

According to homemade masters, the installation of the split system is better to coincide with the repair. This is due to the fact that the installation of such equipment is a pretty serious task. In order to carry out the electrician, you will have to go through many walls. If they already have a cladding, then in advance it is necessary to lay the costs of a new finish.

When homemade masters ask about what preparations need to be carried out before installing the split system, they respond that in the first stage it is necessary to take care of the presence of appropriate tools. It is not only always convenient to use sweater tools, but also unsafe, because with such an outcome, the air conditioner can break in a week.

To carry out installation, prepare:

  • perforator;
  • reinforced man;
  • truboresis;
  • set for rolling tubes;
  • tank;
  • hand pump;
  • vacuum pump;
  • phase indicator;
  • manometer.

Consumers emphasize that a set of chisels should be attached to the perforator. You will have to do holes in the overhaul. Their diameter should be 100 mm. Homemade masters claim that the reinforcement designer will also need. If the wall is concrete, then you can get into the rod, so you have to look for a new hole.

Saw tubes for refrigerant should not be knitted. For this consumers advise you to acquire or borrow a pipeline. If you do not follow this rule, then a copper crumb will remain in the lumen, it will quickly withdraw the compressor.

Studying tubes with infirred means is also not worth it. To do this, prepare a special set. Otherwise, you will not succeed in achieving tightness. A good set includes pipe cutting and shabby. To check the tightness of the system, it is better to use a bicycle pump. But for vacuuming it will suit the eponymous pump.

Schemes and installations

Installation of air conditioners / split systems is usually carried out according to typical schemes that are suitable for apartments, offices and residential premises. Pre-laying blocks and installation calculation is carried out after the departure of the specialist. However, with an independent installation, you can choose the scheme at your discretion. The first of them involves the installation of an inner block on the wall, perpendicular to the window. But at the bottom of the latter, the corresponding block is installed outside.

The second scheme involves the location of the external block on the left side of the window, if you look at it outside. The internal unit remains in the same place. This installation of the multi-split system is suitable for the first and second floors. The distance between the windows should be sufficient for the location of the external unit. Otherwise, it will be necessary to position, as in the first scheme.

If the window has an opening sash on the balcony, the unit can be placed on the left of the latter. Air conditioning from the inside remains at the same place. After that, you can do the installation of the glass package and the glazing of the balcony. But if the glazing is already available, the installation works can be complicated.

The external unit in the presence of a balcony can be located on its side part. This is true if the width of the surface allows the connection of the freon highway. The sash at the installation site of the external block should be opened if the balcony is glazed. Such a scheme is possible if the parapet of the balcony is made of capital materials, among them:

  • concrete;
  • brick;
  • foam block.

The surface from the outside should be smooth and clean.

Installation Instructions for Outdoor Block

You can independently be installed in the installation of the split system. Installation must be carried out according to a specific algorithm. Works should be started with the installation of the outdoor unit. You can use homemade brackets for this. It is important to make sure that the design will be protected from the direct rays of the sun on a hot season. In this case, installation and maintenance will not cause difficulties.

To install brackets, glazing (if any) will have to remove on time. Root parts of the brackets are crashed into frame framing. If you get along down, then it will be possible to do without a subproof, the balcony's trim does not have to touch.

Installing an internal unit

Installation of the system in the apartment is carried out in the following order. First you need to determine the location of the structure. Then the wiring is laid, the hole in the wall for laying communications is made. Installation of split-system with your own hands, the instruction for the implementation of which is presented in the article, it can be fully implemented.

Methods of work

At the next stage, the technology provides for the preparation and gasket of the pipeline. Blocks must be interconnected. The system should be checked for tightness. It is evacuated, fill, and after the power supply is connected. The split system must be tested. Inter-block harness is isolated. The hole in the overhaul is closed.

For reference

If you do not feel the strength to engage in installments yourself, you can use the services of professionals. If you wish, you can save air conditioning in the firm that is engaged in the installation. Quite often, such companies provide a discount on installation work.

The cost of work

The cost of mounting split-system will cost 4000 rubles, if you get air conditioning with a capacity of up to 3.5 kW. When power increases to 7 kW, the cost rises to 4500 rubles. Install the split system from 7 kW in power and above you can 8000 rubles. The split-system installation price usually includes an installation of external and internal blocks, connecting structures among themselves, as well as controls. Paying the above value, you will also get a breakdown of one of the holes in concrete or brick.

Conclusion

Of course, the installation can be done by yourself. But in this case, many suppliers remove the warranty. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work of professionals.

How to connect air conditioning

When users ask this question, then two different meanings can mean:

  1. How to connect the air conditioner or to connect the blocks of the split system among themselves;
  2. How to connect air conditioning to the power grid.

You need to know that there is a "interconnection" wire connection and the connection of the device. In this article we will analyze both of these questions.

Reply to the first question:

In addition to the fact that the blocks need to be correctly positioned and secured, it is necessary to correctly connect them to each other. In general terms, the split system work needs:

  1. To bring drainage to where it is required (most often on the street, very rarely in the sewer). The indoor unit has a drainage conclusion that you need to "increase" and bring out along with the main communications;
  2. Connect the power to the desired block (it will be the answer to the second question);
  3. Connect two block communications. Below will consider it more.

What communications mean, and that specifically need to connect:

  • thin copper tube (in thermoflex);
  • fat copper tube (in thermoflex);
  • inter-block cable. Most often it is a five-pot cable. The essence of its connection is to connect to the external block of the wire to the same terminals as the inner block. Usually in the instructions for air conditioning there is a detailed description. The figure below shows the connection of the wires of one air conditioner;


  • seldom Included with air conditioning goes additional Inter-block (dwell) wire. It will also need to be connected accordingly.

The answer to the second question:

There are two main ways to connect an air conditioner to the mains

  • fork in a rosette. In this way, small household cooling air conditioners are connected to 4 kW. In the same rosette should not include other electrical appliances;
  • through automatic. Cooling conditioners for cooling more than 4 kW must be connected via automatic. And also all inverter air conditioners are preferably connected through the automatic, to respected phasing.

Inverter air conditioners most often have a network connection to the external block. ON / OFF air conditioners are most often connected to the network through the internal unit. In this case, the inner block may have a wire with a fork or without it. The wire has three veins - yellow-green ("Earth"), blue ("zero"), brown ("phase").

The figure shows the connection of the external unit. The left shoe is "inter-bond" compound (4 wires in this case). The right block (Power Supply) connects the three-phase power supply of the air conditioner.

It is important for all air conditioners: if the inner block of the split system does not have a wire with a fork, then when the power is connected (to the desired block), it is necessary to observe the phasing. Zero wire must be connected to the "N" terminal, and the phase to the terminal "L" or "P".

What you need to know about the installation of the split system

Problem: The main difficulty with which the buyer of the Split system faces is the problem of proper installation. Installation by 90% defines the quality and service life of the air conditioner. If errors are made when installed, then fix them is very difficult.

  • Decision: Installation should carry out specialists who have a license to install air conditioners, with the instructions and using special equipment. After mounting in the room there should be no debris nor dust or boxes. The word "air conditioning" worried only in our country. This is actually a piece of phrase AIR-Condition, which translated from English means "air condition". The air conditioner is used to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. Vinting air, air conditioning cleans it, passing the air flow through special filters.

Today we will talk about installing a more modern type of air conditioning system - about split system. What are the advantages of the split system before "ordinary" air conditioning? The split system does not light up natural light as "OBSNIK", which is embedded into the window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the system of general air conditioning at home, if there is something (this is when one hefty block costs somewhere in the basement and drives the air throughout the house). And differs from the "ordinary" air conditioner in what consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two internal blocks, then this is already called the "multisplit system".

But let's agree: for simplicity, I will talk about a split system, calling it more familiar to our ear, the word "air conditioning" for our ear.

First - repair, then - split

So, the split system (from the English word SPLIT - "split, split") consists of two separate blocks: an internal (evaporator) and an outdoor or external (condenser). Blocks are connected to each other by electrical pipelines and two copper tubes for which refrigerant flows (freon). From the inner block, the plastic thin tube (drainage) is also departed - for the output of condensed moisture. Ideally, it must be connected to the drain (sewer) pipe or to a special reservoir, but often it is made simply outside, and then water drops fall on the head passersby (about how to make drainage correctly, see further).

The principle of operation of the split system is such. If the room is required to cool, then from the heat exchanger of the external block on one copper tube, the freon enters the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. There is blown by the fan, with the result that cold air comes from the indoor unit. If the air in the room should be heated, then with the help of the heat pump, the external capacitor turns into an evaporator, and the evaporator becomes a condenser. In addition to the condenser and evaporator, the split system includes a compressor that is installed in the external block. The main function of the compressor is to compress freon to give this gas properties that significantly increase the efficiency of the air conditioner.

The internal unit works almost silently (Daikin models have the noise level of some internal blocks of 28 to 31 dB, and Mitsubishi, when the engine is on at the lowest speed, - 26 dB; the same level of noise creates a flying butterfly). But the fan and compressor of the external device can "buzz" and pogrom.

Internal blocks according to the fastening method are wall-mounted and outdoor ceiling (outdoor ceiling are called so because they can be attached to the ceiling, and to the floor). There are still cassette and multi-zone internal blocks, but we will talk about them next time.

Wall internal blocks are most often installed in the apartments. With the help of moving blinds of the wall block, the direction of air flow can be changed. But the power of wall blocks is specifically limited - otherwise a strong jet of cold air will simply "blow up" everything in its path. But if in the room (for example, in the office), a more powerful air conditioner is required, an outdoor ceiling unit is installed. It will help to direct a strong jet along the wall or ceiling and thus ensure a uniform temperature distribution of the room.

Our advice: if the length of the room significantly exceeds its width, it is much more efficient to establish the outdoor ceiling air conditioning!

Split systems differ in power (cooling capacity) and design. Selection of design - at the discretion of the buyer. But about power it is necessary to consult with a specialist. At the same time you need to know:

  • 1. Area (volume) of your room.
  • 2. The size of the window, the side of the light to which it comes out.
  • 3. The presence (absence) blinds on the windows.
  • 4. The number of permanent technicians highlighting the heat (TV, computer, etc.).
  • 5. The number of heating batteries in the rooms.
  • 6. The number of people constantly located in the room.
  • 7. Is there a forced ventilation?

Another advice: if on the firm where you want to buy air conditioning, you did not ask anything about it, then it is better not to buy from them. Because there is a danger that you are offered "typical not that". In solid firms before selling an air conditioner, the consultant, as a rule, leaves the position of the proposed installation of the device, makes measurements and finds out all the necessary details. Then all these data are entered into the program, and only after that the computer selects the optimal model. For example, work in the Aeroproprop company, specializing in Cerrier air conditioners (CARRIER), in the company "Meteomarket" (Daikin air conditioners (Daikin) and Climatss (Hitachi air conditioners) (Hitachi) ).

What else do you need to know? Specialists are advised to put a split system to or during repairs, and not after all repairs have already been carried out. Then it is not necessary to hammer and drill freshly stained and aligned walls to lay the electrical wiring for the air conditioner and strengthen the brackets for fastening the indoor unit. You can, of course, hide communications into external boxes, but it will not decorate the interior.

Moreover, installation work in a freshly surmounted apartment is much more expensive, especially after the renovation.

Now about other possible ambushes. Very often, errors begin when buying an air conditioner. Wanting to save, we go to the nearest store (and on the market) and buy air conditioning. So what? And all: we are alone with him. At best, after reading the instructions carefully, we take it to install it.

Meanwhile, the installation of the split system in the apartment is not at all the same as the installation of a refrigerator or TV: they say, brought home, put in the selected place, turned on and - works! With air conditioning, this number will not pass. Air conditioning requires competent installation. There is just the case when you cannot save on the installation. The better set - the longer will last. It is not by chance that installation works are 18-30% of the cost of the aggregate.

I remember how one experienced and discrepanted installer, answering my, quite an innocent question: where to start the installation of the air conditioner, suddenly worried and crushed: "People! You are all competent! Each air conditioner is given instructions in Russian, in it and installation, and the rules of operation are painted "for fools", on points. Yes, read it, damn it, before you press your hands! And even better - call specialists. " And he, alas, right.

Installation: where to start?

Split System Installation Scheme

  • 1. Communication (in the Stroker)
  • 2. Drainage (in the Stroker)
  • 3. Sewerage
  • 4. Siphon
  • 5. Wiring - to the shield (in the stroke)
  • 6. Hole in the wall, pierced with a slope of 1-3 °

First stage: separate wiring is carried out

To anyone, even a low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a separate wiring and put a separate automatic machine. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and, God forbid, will light up. If a separate wiring for the air conditioner, installers will be put - the possibility of fire is reduced to almost zero.

Especially be alert if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, wiring, alas, is not designed for loads from the use of powerful electrical equipment. The installers remember the case when the owner of the apartment because of the air conditioner was forced to replace the entire wiring: the old simply could not stand and constantly knocked the plugs.

Second Stage: Installation of the Outdoor Block

For this, the installers drill holes for brackets, which then install the external unit.

If you put it on an open balcony, there are no problems: they attached bolts, the breeze blows it - and order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break it). If you want to attach a block on the wall, then without solid brackets can not do. Moreover, they must withstand weight, several times higher than the weight of the block. In the high floors, the "outernik" is mounted with a machine equipped with a sliding staircase. Or cause climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such challenges are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes appliances are required in the form of a machine with a fire staircase, and a climber.

If you live on the upper floors, the outdoor unit can be put on the roof. But note that the difference between the inner and external blocks in height should not exceed 3-20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).

If your apartment is located on the first floor, I strongly recommend hanging the external unit above 1.8-2 meters above the ground and "hide" it into a cage. And then can and steal. On one of the firms we told the story. A man came and ordered only an external block. Managers were surprised: "Why don't you want the entire split system." - "Yes, I have an inside air conditioner, but the outer" box "was cut yesterday. On the first floor, under the window hung. " Regardless of the height, on which the external block is "applied", a metal visor should be made over it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in its path.

Generally installing an external block - a responsible business. If it is poorly fixed, he can fall and fall apart ... for someone. During the warranty period, the responsibility for the consequences of this is a firm that has established air conditioning. And after - you yourself will answer.

What can not be done with an external (outer) block?

There are location limits for installing an external unit:

  • 1. The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be durable (otherwise under the weight of the block it can collapse) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
  • 2. It is impossible to carry the tube with a refrigerant (freon) several times in a small area and to develop their connections (this will lead to refrigerant leakage). If the tubes twisted into the ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, the compressor will be more difficult to download freon.

Third Stage: Installing the Inner Block

The installers are fixed with screws to the wall (if a block wall) or ceiling (if the ceiling unit) special brackets and blocks are installed on them. After that, it is necessary to check the strength of the fasteners (whether the design does not stick? When the air conditioner is turned on, does not vibrate?). Otherwise, sooner or later, the whole design can simply conjure you on the head.

But for the outdoor unit of special fasteners is not required. He, as they say, will stand on foot. " It is only necessary to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, consider the block to do not blow on the curtains or on the wall and stood away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, but after laying all communications, it is impossible to move it from place to place.

So, the internal unit cannot be installed:

  • 1. ... above the heat source (for example, over the battery). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work on cooling "before the loss of the pulse" and will very quickly fail. Imagine that you opened the refrigerator door, and it will cool not only the camera, but also the whole room. He "earned" and fails by the end of the day. The same happens with air conditioning. In addition, from the heat emanating from the room battery, the plastic block of the block can be deformed.
  • 2. ... in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly working (for example, drill, drilling machine). High-frequency oscillations can "knock down" chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
  • 3 . ... directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger to constantly catch up or worse, getting sick with inflammation of the lungs.
  • 4. ... where the air circulation will be difficult, for example, behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which supports the specified temperature automatically, will fail. Cooled (or heated) Air conditioning flow from the air conditioner will reflect on the obstacle and returns back to the same temperature, with which "out". The air conditioner will solve that the work has been done, the desired climate is installed and turns off. This is how my friends happened. Their air conditioner is constantly "confused in the curtains" and disconnected, without having time to bring the room temperature to a given one. I had to call specialists and re-install the system.
  • 5. ... with a breakdown - then water (condensate) will flow from it to the floor, which, according to the installation rules, should be discharged by the drainage tube into a special tank (see our drainage certificate).

Fourth Stage: Stroshings of walls or floor

In order to connect the electrical pipes and freon tubes between the air conditioner blocks, the installers pierce the gutter in the walls or on the ceiling (or as the installers say - you need to "stamp the highway"). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to "stamp", for example, not a wall, and the floor of the apartment.

Do not want to stroke? Then you can hide the wires into decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the box is cleaned under the plinth). But before this, the installers will have to connect two copper tubes (for refrigerant) and the "ends" of electrical wiring between the external and internal blocks. Make sure that the installers do it with the help of connecting fittings. And in a pre-punched hole in the outer wall, the "waterproofing glass" was laid with a connecting hose.

After that, they must carry out the so-called vacuuming of communications, and necessarily for 50 minutes (it is during this time "extra" air and moisture will be released from communications). This manipulation is done necessarily with the help of special equipment.

And keep in mind - for the drainage tube, as a rule, make a separate hidden highway (in the wall or under the floor).

Fifth Stage: Checking the system using a special program

At this stage, the installers must include a split system (air conditioning) by setting it on the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, it means that order. The work is almost completed. By the way, we advise you to independently carry out such an inspection of the system (using the same test program).

Sixth Stage: garbage cleaning

Must warn: Laying the highway and other installation procedures are dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will come with special tools (including a metal detector for surveying walls for the presence of fittings and hidden communications).

In addition, installers must have a vacuum cleaner and other harvesting machines. With their help after the end of the work, they must independently remove all the garbage. If the installers are trying to dodge the "dirty" work, strictly demand - "cleaning the territory" is included in payment for the installation of the air conditioner. In addition, a solid company can conclude a contract for the prophylactic service of the split system. Then you do not have to risen your life, leaning around the belt from the window, clean the outer block with a vacuum cleaner or cause climbers for your money. At the conclusion of such a contract (the warranty repair is included in it), of course, you will have to pay an enynu amount, but believe me, it is worth it. By the way, I have a rush to report a pleasant detail: the company "Meteomarket" selling Japanese air conditioners Daikin (Daikin), after a three-year term of the contract for service freely replace your air conditioning for a new one. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit - you can not change it 20 years. The company guarantees his uninterrupted good job. By the way, in a deliberate building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners (Daikin) are still since the "corn general" Nikita Khrushchev and still work well.

The outer block must be cleaned regularly from dust and dirt. Especially the difficult period of the outdoor unit - the flowering time of poplars. Pooh instantly clogs filters, and air conditioning (if it is not cleaned immediately) breaks. Of course, you can clean the vacuum cleaner, if not afraid of height. But it is better not to risk and call the "service of rescue air conditioners" - that is, the maintenance company.

At temperatures below -15 ° C, the air conditioner may refuse to work "on heat", and then you need low-temperature equipment (heat pump, compressor heater, and even a drainage tube heater). By the way, these devices are already laid in some models (see Table).

What did the installers say?

Experienced installers do not advise you to buy air conditioners "who have", in the market or with hands.

- How many times have happened, the installation of illiterate uhary will be installed, and then people call us, begged to help, "one experienced installer told me from a very solid company. - Burn, it happened, with you such grief-installer copper tube for freon, and it without plugs. If there is no plug, it means that the wet air will fall inside. And the humidity is invalid for the air conditioner: connecting with the insides of the entire system, forms acid, eating the air conditioner mechanism from the inside! And instead of serving for many years, such an air conditioner is already in three years, it is clear, sent to the landfill.

The installers told me that it was sometimes very observed customers, they say, "I cry, do the same as I say!". How to be? I recently had a case. The client ordered to establish an outdoor unit from the street, but inside the apartment, and in the children's room. Motivated this with a strange statement that his children, they say, will live for another two months in the country. All the persuasors and arguments of installers that the outer block cannot be put in closed, and even more so in the residential room, he ignored. It is clear that after two months the stubborn buyer called the installers to reinstall everything in a new one.

Or here is the case. The client wished the internal block to blow straight on the bed, and the air temperature would be 18 ° C. He was trying to prove that it would be cold, in addition, the directional flow of cold air can cause a cold. "Not! Will not catch up! Put! " There is nothing to do, put it. The next day came to install air conditioner already in another room, see, and the temperature on that yesterday split, installed at 22 ° C.

- What is it? - Ask.

- True, your guys, frozen at night.

In general, with the correct operation of the air conditioner, a person should not feel that it cools something or heats. Just comfortable - and that's it! Somehow called one friend, asked to come. Says: "I am, however, I didn't buy you." Okay, went. Revealed the block, and there - the milk rat.

That's it. Hence the conclusion - to buy a little and install the split system. The main thing is that you make it professionals.

Our certificate

The optimal temperature for human activity is + 21-3 ° C.

Optimal air parameters in the area of \u200b\u200bresidential premises

For air conditioning with an area of \u200b\u200b10 square meters, a device with a capacity of 1 kW is needed, provided that the height of the walls is not higher than 3 meters.

There is a formula for calculating cooling capacity (power):

Q (total.) (Excess heat) \u003d Q1 + Q2 + Q3,

  • 1. Excessive heat depending on the size of the room is calculated according to the following formula: Q1 \u003d S x H x Q (UD.), Where S is the area of \u200b\u200bthe room (sq.m.), H is the height of the room (M); Q (Ud.) \u003d 0.03 kW / cubic meters. - if direct sunlight does not fall into the room; Q (Ud.) \u003d 0.035 kW / cubic meters. - mean; Q (Ud.) \u003d 0.04 kW / cubic meters. - If the sun in the room is a lot.
  • 2. Heat from working equipment Q2 is about 30% of power consumed.
  • 3. The heat from people Q3 is 0.1 kW per person for office space and residential apartments and 0.1 - 0.3 kW for restaurants, gyms, etc. The air conditioner power is selected nearest to the obtained value Q (total.)

The order of installation of the split system

1. Wiring for a separate electrical wiring for air conditioner and installing a separate "automaton" in the distribution panel.

2. Installation of an external (outer) unit:

  • selection of space for its installation (no less than 1.8-2 meters above the ground, otherwise they can steal - there were cases);
  • installing supporting brackets (anchor bolts);
  • strengthening the external block on the brackets;
  • drilling holes with a diameter of 5.0-6.0 cm in the outer wall for connecting communications (connect the external and internal blocks of the split system);
  • insertion into the hole of the "waterproofing glass" (the material from which the "glass is made, - the know-how of the installers); Laying in a "glass" of connecting communications.

3. Installation of the indoor unit:

  • the choice of space (the distance horizontally between the inner and external blocks should not exceed more than 7-30 meters - depending on the system brand);
  • installing supporting brackets;
  • strengthening the inner block on the brackets.

4. Connecting wire wires:

  • wall or floor sticking (in order to hide communication or laying of wires into the plastic case);
  • connection of wires (copper for refrigerant and electric), which come from an external unit with an internal unit using connecting fittings;
  • conducting a vacuum procedure (for 50 minutes, to remove air and moisture from communications with special equipment).

5. Trial switching on the system:

  • checking the system using a special program.

6. Room cleaning (forces of installers).

How should the right drainage be arranged?

For this, installers should:

  • 1. Watch the highway.
  • 2. Place water in the apartment.
  • 3. Drill a hole in the sewer tuber.
  • 4. Tightly put into the hole drainage plastic tube with a siphon. The layer of water in the siphon will detain the smell that comes from the sewage.

Attention! A drainage tube on which the accumulated moisture is given must go be sure to be under the inclination of 5-10 mm so that there is a natural flow of water. If the slope is made for some reason it is not possible, you must install a special pump for "compulsory moisture suction". But! Such a pump is not included, and it needs to be bought separately. Purchase will cost 70 - 190 dollars, depending on the pump model you choose.

The main problems arising from the operation of the air conditioner

Problem 1: The air conditioner blows right on you, creating a feeling of draft.

  • Decision: It is necessary to include the function of self-oscillation of horizontal blinds (then the draft will turn into a light breeze) or fix the horizontal flaps in a better position. If this does not give the result, you need to rotate the air flow to the left or right with vertical air dampers. In most air conditioners, this operation is done manually, but in some models it can be carried out using the remote control.

Problem 2: On hot days, the air conditioner does not create the necessary coolness, despite the fact that it works constantly.

  • Decision: In this case, check whether the filters should not be closed, whether windows and doors were closed, whether additional heating devices (boiling plants or toasters) are operated. It can be recommended to hang on the windows dense white blinds, well reflecting heat and light, thus reduce the heat absorbance through the windows almost twice. If it does not help, the model must be replaced with more powerful.

Problem 3: From the inner block of the split system dripping water.

  • Decision: Apparently, a drainage pipeline was hampered. Most often, this situation occurs when the air conditioner with a drainage pipe was derived to cool at a minus temperature. In this case, condensate can turn into an ice cork. To avoid this, you need to heat the drain pipeline up to +5 ° C using a special cable. If the ice traffic jam still originated, then it is worth waiting for thaw, and until the moment does not include the cooling system.

Problem 4: Weakening airflow.

  • Decision: Clean the air filter. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or rinse with a soft sponge in warm water. Operate air conditioning without a filter is not recommended because it protects not only your lungs, but also the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. When drank the last efficiency of the air conditioner drops.

Problem 5: The icing of the external block during the operation of the air conditioner to heating under conditions of small negative temperatures and high humidity.

  • Decision: If the air conditioner is not equipped with an automatic defrost system, try to turn it on in cooling mode. In this case, the external block begins to give heat outdoor, heats up and gradually pulls off.

Problem 6: Premature air conditioner outlet.

  • Decision: In order to avoid this, it is not necessary to operate it at temperatures below - 10-15 ° C. At a lower temperature, the oil in the compressor is thick, and its wear has increased repeatedly.

There are different rumors about the dangers of air conditioners. But in the press center of the metropolitan SES, we were told that there was nothing to be afraid of: with a timely replacement of filters and, subject to the rules of operation, there is no harm to the split system in itself. At least, complaints in SanEpidemadzor did not receive.

Provided by Material magazine

Reading time ≈ 13 minutes

The microclimate in the house is not just convenient, but also useful for your health - you can maintain different temperatures. But the installation of Split system is interested in many hands - cheaper to make mounting yourself, rather than invite the masters, although it is not always right. First of all, experts will make installation according to the instructions, but if you are confident, you can do it yourself.

What is split system

Split system before installation

For a start, let's determine what the system is split, so as not to be confused in definitions - for some reason it is distinguished from the usual air conditioner, and it is correct. There are several types of SLE:

  • On the wall of 1.5-9.0 kW.
  • On the floor 4.0-13.0 kW.
  • On the ceiling 4.0-13.0 kW.
  • With channels 5.0-18.0 kW.
  • Cassette systems 5.0-14.0 kW.

How it works

The SLE consists of two parts - this is a compressor, which is usually put on the street under the window and the inner block, which serves cold air into the room. The compressor is Freon, which is this air and cools - this air comes from the street (supply system). In addition to cooling in the inner block there is a solenoid, which can also bent of hot air.

Outdoor block

Outdoor block is attached on the brackets

The outer block is located in the open space - the facade of the house, an open balcony, a roof. In office buildings, the outer block can be fixed on the staircase march, in the lobby or in the corridor. These two blocks are interconnected by a tube for freon, as well as a tube for the flow of condensate. There is also a compressor, a four-way valve, a receiver, a fan and a winter collector control system, which is driven by a condenser electric motor. The four-way valve is connected from the inner block through the power cable, which is from the block in the apartment. The compressor is also located on the outer block, which removes noise indoors. The inner block is slightly noise - it is 24-25 dB and it interferes with some people.

Block in the apartment

Block in the apartment, fixed to the wall

The internal unit can be located in any part of the room - the ceiling, walls, the floor (it depends on the type of SC). The system is controlled by remote (remote) is attached. Modern air conditioners are equipped with a filter for cleaning air from smoke and / or dust. Heating and cooling the room varies in the range from 10 to 30⁰c. There is information on the remote display that you can adjust the system in the right mode - this air temperature, three degrees of injection force and turbo. For domestic use, wall variants are used, and outdoor and ceiling in offices, enterprises, public areas.

The electronics of this block manages all the parameters:

  1. Allows you to control using the remote control, fixes the desired temperature and injection of the air flow.
  2. Fixes the air temperature that enters the evaporator and freezes the air temperature in the room.
  3. When a given temperature is reached in the room, the compressor is turned off, and turns on when the maximum permissible conditions change to 3-5⁰c.
  4. The temperature is maintained by adjusting the fan rotation in the inner block, as well as the rotation of the compressor. If the evaporator is turned off, a large amount of condensate is formed in those nodes that are not calculated for it. This can cause water flow through the indoor unit into the room.
  5. The remote control is provided by language management (blinds), which gives the direction of airflow.
  6. Prevents premature launch.
  7. Controls the temperature of the block on the street.
  8. Watching a timer that can be set at a certain time.

Heating room

Modern air conditioners can warm the air that enters the room. This occurs when switching a four-way valve, which changes the direction of air supply. It is controlled by a solenoid at a voltage of 220 V, which comes from the inside. With the heating function on the outer block, it is formed to be removed. It should not be heated by the House of SD with a negative temperature on the street - this can lead to frost and defrost, which is equivalent to breakage. It is better to use heating at temperatures above 0⁰С.

Cooling in the cold season

In SLE, there is a winter kit that allows air conditioning in the rooms of a closed type, where there is intensive heat generation - server, workshops, and the like. During the discharge of cold air, the block on the street is heated, so its freezing is impossible. This kit includes a fan controller - it turns it on in a condenser mode when heated, and also heats the flow of the condensate flow tube.

High temperatures

For Freon R10A there is a critical heat point - this is 72⁰c, therefore, the maximum temperature on the street should be no more than 45-50⁰c. For Freon R22, the maximum temperature of the block 96⁰c, therefore, the permissible ambient temperature is 65-70⁰c - this allows you to install such aggregates in hot shops, in attics and in garages. Such high temperatures can be on metal attics, in maafachs and other metal rooms.

When the temperature on the street is very high, the unit works with pressure and freon drops more. This factor causes more intensively to work the compressor and pump the maximum amount of freon, which leads to its switching to electronics. Conventional SLE is designed for a temperature not higher than 40⁰c. If the air conditioner in the house or apartment is located on the sunny side, it is recommended when installing split systems with your own hands on top of attaching a visor that will protect the unit from the Sun.

For non-standard modes of operation, the capacity of the capillary channel is reduced, and this provides a significant pressure drop at the inlet and output with a smaller number of pumped freon. Since gas in the system is less, it is not a liquid on the capillary channel, but gas with liquid - it turns out that the circulation is significantly reduced and the air conditioner retains its ability to work in non-standard conditions. Under normal temperature conditions, such differences are harmful to the air conditioner, and it quickly fails.

Multi Systems

Multi-split system

If the SLE is equipped with several blocks, then this will already be a multi system - it implies one block outdoors and several blocks in the building. Such equipment is very convenient for offices, shops or a large residential building. It is noteworthy that in such a situation the outer block can be combined with several distinctive systems, n-floor, not the wall and on the ceiling. Of course, such aggregates are more expensive - there is an additional controller to control the desired modes and compressors with fans.

Such systems are with one or several compressors. In the case of one compressor, the internal SLE unit transmits information to the external part of the unit, which determines the operation mode of the compressor. In systems, several compressors usually happen two or three blocks. In such a situation, a separate compressor is installed on each block, a separate four-way valve and a separate capillary tube. The outdoor unit compressor fixes the signals of all internal blocks and sets the fan and compressor. Such air conditioners are both inverter and not inverter.

Air-conditioned care

Oh condensate, both internal and the outer block for two or three years is clogged, so they need to be cleaned - inside this is done using a hot steam, and they wash the outside. Thus, the fungal mold is removed along with dust. Without cleaning the unit, its efficiency can be reduced twice, and sometimes even more. Especially a lot of dust accumulates at the external block and for cars and trees. Filters that are above, helping little and more serve for advertising than for cleaning.

Requirements for air conditioner


Video: Mounting work

To install split systems with your own hands, in fact, easy and you can see the video process, but you should consider several factors:

  1. Air conditioning in no case should be near the heating devices, for example above the radiator, it greatly increases the electricity consumption for which you need to pay.
  2. The garbage in the system should not be, as it can put a vacuum pump.
  3. Boiling Freon can evaporate even through the micro gap, so when installing the unit should be checked for tightness.
  4. The outer unit must be lower than the internal one. Otherwise, it is fraught with electricity overrun and thermophone effect.
  5. Heating the outer part of the SLE also causes excessive waste of electricity.
  6. A tube for drainage Motets to descend only down, without hinges bent up. Such bends serve as a collection of garbage and fungal mold.
  7. Installation of split systems with your own hands without a vacuum pump does not lead to anything good - the compressor will drive Freon, which will cause air overheating and damage the oil, which spoys the compressor. Too expensive pleasure - it is often easier to acquire a new one.

Air split

There are two separate blocks: evaporative (in the apartment) and compressor condensation (outdoor). Although modern aggregates work not only on air cooling, but also on its heating, it turns out that freon condenses in the inner part of the unit, and evaporation occurs in the outer, therefore they are called internal and external.

Selection of tools

Installation of air conditioner is better to spend during repair work in the house

Installation work is most conveniently carried out during repairs in the apartment, as it will have to drill holes in the wall, and this is a lot of dust. To install the unit you will need such tools like:

  • With a standard set, rolled and crown cutter Ø 50 mm. This mill will have to drill a major (carrier) wall to output tubes.
  • Magnet to determine the presence of reinforcement. And in concrete walls it is necessarily.
  • Bulgarian, but it is better to cut the tubes to cut the tubes - be sure after that the tube should be blown up so that there is no copper crumb left there.
  • It takes shabers for filling the pipes, as not to achieve tightness tools. In addition, it is impossible to clean the ends with a file or supfil to inspire.
  • Bicycle or car pump for tightness control.
  • Vacuum pump will be needed to vacuum before refueling the unit.
  • Amplolomethmeter (can be phase indicator) to connect to the network ≈220 V.
  • Pressure gauge for pressure check.

Mounting work

Bracket on the street is attached to anchor dowels

The most difficult to fix the brackets on the wall from the outside of the house - usually make it below the windows to have access to the external block. Bashed with anchor plastic dowels Ø 14-16 mm - two pieces for each bracket. Some are mistaken and buy metal molly, but there is a dowel of an umbrella type and in a solid wall it will not be kept. This installation can be made from a telescopic tower, but it will cost it expensive, so it's easier to flow through the window and drill holes, only you first need to put a pencil label. So that the hole does not move, first drill the thin drill Ø 5-6 mm, and then take Ø 14-16 mm

The street unit must be below the internal

As a rule, it is not recommended to install an outdoor unit independently - it is not only dangerous for health, but also for life.

But if you have a construction experience in high-altitude work, then you can mount. You can, of course, install it on the balcony or loggia, if they are not glazed - if the block is indoors, it will overheat. Most importantly, it is good to fasten the brackets, but if you are afraid of height, then it is better not to be taken for such work, but to invite a specialist - they have experience at height, so it is better to pay, but not risking.

But first you need to determine the place where the inner block will be located, then to install the outer outdoor relative to it. It is most convenient when they are nearby - you don't have to add copper tubes - they are expensive. Then the cutter make a hole in the wall, but if the walls are concrete, then the hole is best to pierce the chisel, so as not to break the crown on the wire.

Installation of the mounting plate for the indoor unit

The mounting bar for fastening the air conditioner should be inserted strictly by level and secure it with plastic dowels. Here the anchors are no longer needed - it is possible to do with a dowel Ø 6 mm and scores with a length of 90 mm. I was not mistaken - it is 6-mm dowels that are needed for fastening so that the screw did not break from the wall. If the walls are soft, then you can drive two screws in one dowel - so much stronger. Sculpting, of course, tweet two screws will be difficult, so it is better to use a screwdriver or an electric drill.

Build pipelines

The tubes cut with meter snuff so that there are reserves for bends. Bending the phone should be very careful so that it does not cracked anywhere. Although wrinkles should not be allowed - such deformation will prevent the refrigerant flow, and this in turn will cause electricity overrun. The best thermal insulation, it is a pipe made of foamed polyurethane - it will last for a very long time, but the foam will not die even one season. The flanges are put on the ends and only after that make the ruin. The thread on the flanges should be rotated to the end of the tube to fasten them to the fitters. New air conditioners are noctors of different diameters, so it will be impossible to confuse the ends. But in the passport there is instructions on the assembly, so you can constantly spot.

For drainage it is best to use a metal-plastic Ø 16 mm, since the corrugated plastic quickly crumbles under the influence of atmospheric precipitation and temperature drops. If the drainage is not provided for drainage, you can connect to a heat shrinkage, heated by a soldering iron or on an open fire - matches or lighter.

In order to combine the internal and outer blocks use a stranded cable with a cross section of a non-1,5 mm - there are terminals with names. The names of the terminals may not coincide, and then they will have to deal with the instructions that are in the passport. The wire is also sealed into the pipe from the foamed polyurethane, and then all communications can be wrapped with scotch. This pipe is focused on a 50mm hole, which is made in advance in the wall.

To test the sealing, distilled water heated to evaporation and with a solution of economic soap (it can be grain). To continue, they remove the nipple from the release and pump water from the pump - if bubbles appear on the thread, the nut is slightly tightened. After completion, the soap is wiping with a wet cloth or sponge. Nipples put in place and the vacuum pump roll off the air, which removes dust and moisture. It is necessary to do for a long 40-60 minutes - the moisture will be removed along with the air. The system is pumped by freon from the cylinder through the pressure gauge - the required pressure is indicated in the passport.


Video: Installation work on the installation of the split system

Now it remains only to test the unit - this can be done from the remote control or the start button on the internal block. If testing does not start, you will have to call a specialist, since warranties will not be valid. When starting the test, blinds should open and go cold air. Blinds are adjustable to the desired position from the remote control.

Conclusion

If something does not work with the installation of the split system with your own hands, and this is usually an outdoor unit, you will have to call the wizard or hire a telescopic tower. But this applies to multi-storey buildings - on the first floors and in the private sector problems usually do not occur.

Show content articles

Split systems provide coolness in the hot season, normalize the microclimate and purify the air. The high cost of mounting works prompts to engage in connecting climate techniques yourself. Sequential installation of a powerful air conditioner, made with your own hands, is possible only when the step-by-step instructions and standards are observed.

Choosing a place

The presence of two or more blocks in climatic equipment provides a choice of space for each of them. Before starting installation work, accompanying documentation will be needed.

Do I need permission to install an air conditioner

Constructively, the air conditioner presents a system with an internal and outer block that is attached to the facade.

Multi-storey house, on the basis of Art. 246 GK is a common property with the right of disposition of all owners. Installation of equipment without negotiation is a violation:

  • the device makes noise, buzzing, breaking the calm of the neighbors;
  • condensate can spoil the facade of the building or get to the balcony below;
  • the overall block overlaps the overview or view and windows;
  • there are risks of wall cracking, wiring and fire closure.

Based on paragraph 1 of Art. 25 LCD Installation of the Split System is considered as a reconstruction or re-equipment of the room. P. 3.5.8 Resolutions No. 170 reports to prevent the installation of the air conditioner without permission from the management company and the neighbors. Consent or refusal can only be obtained after the meeting of residents at home.

Important! Residents of private houses can start installing immediately after purchasing the device.

The permit is required if:

  • installation work is carried out on the front of the high-rise building;
  • the user lives in the house representing the value, in terms of history and culture;
  • split system is located above the pedestrian walkways;
  • on the window opening, where the unit is located, there are no special fences.
Important! The management company has no right to remove air conditioners. Art. 330 of the Criminal Code considers such actions as self-government. Dismantling devices is carried out only by court decision.

Select a place for the indoor unit

Installation of an internal air conditioner module is carried out with your own hands so that cold air flows are not discomfort. It is allowed to have a headboard sofa, side and rear from the workplace. Construction standards identified the order of the indoor unit:

  • from the design to the ceiling - not less than 15 cm;
  • from the module to the right or left wall - at least 30 cm;
  • from the unit to the floor - 280 cm, but for apartments on the first floor, the outer block is mounted at one level or below the internal;
  • from the obstacle to the movement of air flows - not less than 150 cm;
Tip! In the room with a sofa and a TV, air conditioning better put over the sofa.

Where to determine the outdoor unit?


The outer module is located near the window opening or on an open loggia. If the balcony is glazed, the block is placed on a fence with good bearing capacity or on the facade. Residents of the 1st floor need to determine the place for the outdoor module as far as possible from passersby. On 3 or more floor it is allowed to install the device under the window or on the side.

In a private house, the outdoor unit is placed on a wall with a high bearing capacity. On ventilated facades, they organize a special fastening or placed a block on the base.

Definition of the distance between blocks

The maximum length of the intermodulle route is 6 m, when exceeding the additional injection of freon will need. If the outer and internal module is placed at a distance of 1 m, the track should not exceed 5 m. Surplus the system is formed into the ring and placed behind the unit.

Interesting to know! Manufacturers indicate a different maximum distance between blocks. For Daikin technology, it is 1.5-2.5 m, for Panasonic - 3 m.

What will be required for installation

Sequential installation of a good split system when performing with your own hands should be carried out taking into account the convenience of access when servicing and ergonomic criteria - cold air should not have direct access to recreation and work zones.

Exemplary Schemes of Split Systems

A suitable scheme for mounting a new air conditioner depends on the type of block. The internal module is allowed to hang:

  • to the left of the outside. The route is flat, the block is 0.5 m from the wall. When the line breaks on the adjacent wall, the distance can be cut to 0.1 m. The conclusion and the track are masked under the cover of the technique;
  • to the left of the outer wall without laying the cable on the facade. Communications are laid in the angular part of the room and hide in the box. It is hiding under the curtain;
  • to the right of the outer wall. Typical solution with a gasket of the route in the box with a wall or with stacking in the stroke.
Tip! Use the laying technology in the stroke if there is a ban on the track laying on the facade.

The outer unit can be positioned:

  • on loggia or balcony. The module is fixed with frontal or lateral way for convenience of service;
  • on the glazed balcony. The window sash must be above the air conditioner. So that snow, moisture or garbage are installed on the block;
  • under window. The option is suitable for premises without a balcony;
  • next to the window. The block is placed at the bottom level window.

Conditioning options

Tip! Do not use hollow or metal materials for the visor - they have low noise insulation.

Equipment

With independent installation of climate techniques will be necessary:

  • perforator for spending through holes on the withdrawal of pipes, cables, drainage pipes;
  • truborez with a sharp blade or hacksaw for metal;
  • file and Rimmer for hanging Zzbinin;
  • pipe bender or special spring for the formation of copper pipes;
  • drill with different drills in diameter to make holes for mounting plates;
  • pipe calibrator and collaborator;
  • stroborez, which can be replaced by bites, sledgehammer and hammer;
  • vacuum pump to start the air conditioning system;
  • screwdrivers, hexagon keys, level.
Important! Trimming the pipes with a hacksaw involves smoothing edges by sandpaper.

Materials and consumables


Use only high-quality materials by selecting them in accordance with the type of equipment:

  • feed wire for powering and connecting modules - power cable for 4 veins with a cross section of 2 mm2 × 2.5 mm2;
  • seamless copper pipes with a diameter specified in the instructions. The length of the products is equal to the length of the track, and the margin is about 30 cm;
  • insulating insulation (foamed rubber) - segments along the length of the track;
  • synthetic insulation;
  • hose corrugation with an inner plastic spiral for drainage or a propylene tube along the length of the track plus 80 cm;
  • L-shaped brackets (2 pcs.) To fix the outer unit with a permissible load limit of 5 times more than the mass of the device;
  • fasteners - bolts, dowels and anchors, selected by type of brackets for the inner module.
Important! To hide the route, you will need a box of plastic 60 × 80 cm.

Basic installation rules and connecting air conditioners

Mounting and connecting a household air conditioner when working with your own hands provide compliance with a number of requirements.

Mounting rules for outdoor unit


The module is equipped as follows:

  1. Checking the balcony or facade for strength - 2 times more equipment, which weighs from 10-15 to 40 kg.
  2. Inspection of brackets on outdoor insulation - should be hidden in the wall material.
  3. Laying the damping seal on the ventilated facade or aerated concrete walls.
  4. Accounting for the noise of equipment - the maximum permissible level ranges from 25 to 30 dB.
  5. Checking the distortion at each stage of the installation to prevent refrigerant leakage.
  6. Installation on a blurred area with a visor to protect against bad weather.
  7. Compliance with the distance of the highway at 15-20 cm, if the technique is located on the roof.
  8. Connecting the condensate collection tube to sewage.
Important! The distance from the outer block to the wall surface is at least 10 cm.

Installation Rules for the Internal Block


The room is set to the second module and the highway is laid:

  1. Connecting to an electrical network with an individual line organization - the power consumption of the air conditioner is 2 kW.
  2. Laying the highway exterior (with a hidden in the box) or internal (with hidden in the wall) in ways.
  3. Compliance between the distances between blocks is a maximum of 6 m for efficient design work.
  4. Removal of household appliances, curtains from the device for 3 m.
  5. Air conditioning do not have over batteries and furniture.
  6. Compliance with the distance from the block to the ceiling at 20-25 cm.
Important! The inner block is fixed with wall or ceiling.

Installing the air conditioner with your own hands

Proper installation of a powerful split system will be qualitatively done with your own hands, if the serial manual is met.

Installation of an inner block


The internal module or hairdryer is installed immediately. Mounting activities include:

  1. Removing measurements from the device.
  2. Placing a steel mounting frame on a wall strictly horizontally with a level check.
  3. Marking points where fasteners will be.
  4. Putting holes in the wall by a perforator.
  5. Fixation of plastic dowels with hammer.
  6. Applying the mounting panel to the wall and fixation by it with self-draws.
  7. Highlighting the hair dryer on a special plate and checking its horizontality.
Important! At the skewers there are risks of accumulation of condensate on the pallet and dragging it on the wall.

Line of communication line

Experts advise users who do not know how to properly connect the household air conditioning without mistakes with their own hands, start with the preparation of the main channels.

Electroviances

High power consumption of split systems (more than 1.5 kW) provides for the organization of a separate line and the installation of the RCD. For a highway, a cable with a cross section of 1.5-2 mm2 and shutdown machines are used. On a neutral (zero), a yellow cable with a green stripe running along is connected to the neutral (zero). With the help of the indicator, zero and phase is determined. If non-standard wires are used, zero and phase areas are indicated at both ends.

Air conditioner connection circuit
Installation scheme

Holes

Work is better to hold together:

  • in block houses, the locations of fittings are determined so as not to harm the carrier walls;
  • the assistant must be at the bottom and report on the installation;
  • holes are drilled with a perforator;
  • for houses without thermal insulation, the diameter is 50-60 mm, for heat-insulated buildings - at least 80 mm.

After preparing holes, you need to put brackets.

Pipelifiers


To prepare and laying you need:

  1. Cut the copper tube with a margin of bends in 1 m.
  2. After cutting, gently without breaks bend the product, observing the limit radius of 10 cm.
  3. Wear on the tube flex-thermal insulation - polyurethane foam hoses. It is not necessary to use foam rubber because of rapid wear.
  4. Plans to end the pipe with special flanges.
  5. Decommission the ends of the tubes.
  6. Alternately connect the pipeline, cold and hot fits, checking them in diameter.
  7. Tightly, but not tightly tighten the flange of the fitting.
  8. Run the drainage channel from the segment of the reinforced plastic tube, connecting it to the drain flange or heat-shrinkable pipe.
  9. Make a spike, working as a soldering iron in a circle.
Important! With strong inflection of pipes, the refrigerant will move unevenly, increasing electricity consumption.

Installation of the outer block


The outer module of the Split system weighs more than 20 kg due to the compressor. Work at height is carried out with the involvement of 1-2 people:

  1. The markup is organized by level.
  2. The perforator is done by holes, taking into account the thermal insulation of the house.
  3. Anchor bolts are screwed into the holes.
  4. Brackets are screwed to the bolts.
  5. To reduce vibrations under the foot of the outer module, rubber is laid.
  6. The fastener quality is checked and an external module is hosted.
Important! If the outer module is installed on the 3rd floor or higher, it is advisable to contact industrial climbers.

Connecting system blocks

The connection of blocks is carried out through the channels in the wall with the connection of the cable on the terminals similar to the color of the main wiring. When the location of the modules is more than 5 m, a special loop is made to capture the oil. With a smaller loop drop is not performed.

Drainage


Drainage channels are equipped with a tap outside or in sewage. Nozzles are connected as follows:

  1. On the output of the inner block (plastic tube with a tip) is stretched by corrugation.
  2. The connection is fixed by a homutic.
  3. The outdoor unit is put on the hose for moisture removal from the walls.
  4. When using the polymer pipe, an adapter is selected.

Drainage tubes need to be laid with a slope. The maximum is 3 mm * 1 m, the minimum is 1 mm * 1 m.

Freon circulation system


Copper tubes for refrigerant bend pipe bend or spring without sharp turns. Connection begins with an internal unit - nuts twisted from ports. With their weakened, nitrogen hissing is heard. After its termination, the plugs are removed, they remove the nuts, wear them on the tube and begin the rolling.

Rolling

After removing the plugs from the tubes:

  1. The stripping of the edges is checked.
  2. The jazbins are smoothed by sandpaper.
  3. The section is adjusted by a calibrator with the edges of 5 cm.
  4. The extreme parts are flared for attachment at the inlet and outlet.
  5. During the collapse, the edge of the pipe is guided down and fixed with a 2 mm output.
  6. The rolling cone is put on the edge of the pipe, tightened with effort.
  7. The rolling is ends when the cone does not pass to the edge.

The operation is repeated for all segments.

Connection with port

The collapsed end of the tube is connected to the output, the nut is spinning. Sealants and additional gaskets are not used. For a solid fixation, a pressure of 50-70 kg will need, so that copper is flattened, and the connection has become monolithic. Works are done for all outputs.

Testing tightness


A solution is used for sealing. It will take 0.5 liters of distilled water heated to boiling water. In the liquid dissolve 1 tbsp. l. household soap. The graduation nipple is removed, a bicycle pump is put on the nozzle. When the brush is swapped, the composition is applied, and the thread pulls up until bubbles stop to form on 1/8.

Important! Soap raid is better to remove a wet cloth.

Vacuuming

Vacuuming contributes to the removal of moisture, dust, air surplus. The system swings a special pump for 60 minutes. During this time, the moisture and the remnants of the air are completely removed.

Filling and washing


The system is filled from a cylinder with a cooling agent. The tank is connected through a pressure gauge with an adapter. Pressure is injected to the value specified in the manufacturer's documentation. Electrical wires are connected to terminals - zero to zero or neutral. Phase connected by colors.

Important! Cooling conditioners are not filled with freon and vice versa.

Testing

Check is carried out like this:

  1. The disconnecting machine is included.
  2. Air conditioning goes into test mode automatically.
  3. In some models, the test is activated from the console.
  4. If air passes at the end of the test, the location position is set.
  5. The heat shielding is performed by thin aluminum - it saves 2-3% of electricity anymore.
  6. Harness and drainage nozzles are wrapped with a tape resistant to moisture.

At the last stage, the hole in the wall is carefully close.

Common errors in the installation process of the air conditioner

With unprofessional installation, users may allow a number of errors:

  • laying pipes with bends - increases the load on the compressor;
  • installing an external block on a balcony with glazing - normal air circulation is lost;
  • the location of the air conditioner is next to the welding machines;
  • uneven location of blocks - condensate begins to flip on the floor;
  • equipment selection with the lack of the auto-generation option - on the heating mode, the external unit is declared.

For normal operation of the air conditioner, you need to regularly clean the filters and drainage channels. With excessive load, the system is noise - the fan balancing is broken or bearings are broken. The specified breakdowns must only be eliminated by the master.

  1. For split systems, outlets are suitable for boilers and washing machines.
  2. With a strong savage of drainage tubes, condensate accumulates.
  3. If you have not done the ruin before, practice on an unnecessary pipe segment.
  4. Sealing is better to hold together.
  5. After connecting the pipeline, you need to blend the holes by the mounting foam or fill with silicone sealant.

Check video on how to install air conditioning yourself