How to prepare a bed near the strawberries in the fall. How to make a bed under the strawberries: examples and tips on arrangement. The best predecessors for strawberries are considered

While novice gardeners are fighting for high strawberry yields - more experienced comrades sell delicious berries. You can blame a bad variety, an envious neighbor and even the villain of a fate interfering with high harvests. Or read an article in which I will share the basics of proper preparing bed under the strawberries, I will talk about choosing a place and necessary fertilizers. Choose what is closer to you?

Choose the most good place

Do you know that the roots of strawberries are located in the upper layers of the soil? This means that the plant can not get nutrients and moisture from the depth. On the poor and unprepared soils behind the growth, sick, reduces the yield and dying. We will fight these problems already at the selection stage.

The first factor is the nature of the relief

Strawberry does not like shaders and revenge with a negligent gardener of diseases, a decrease in the crop and grown in growth. Therefore, choose the place lit by the sun. The plot should be even and not to have a hole: in the spring it is forced to be melt water and the roots are dying. Ideal if the site has a small slope, at least 5 0. From the orientation of the slope dependes the timing of fruiting and taste of berries.

Scrupulous gardeners were calculated that the slope in the southern side seems to move a plot of 33 km south. Strawberry grown in this place before starting fruit. The plant lined with a slope in the north side gives a later crop, the berries acquire the sourness, but larger.

The plot can be perfectly even. The main thing is that there were no steep slopes. It's hard to grow strawberries on such sites: in winter the wind will blow the snow and the plants will flood, during the rain the soil will wash off and cover young leaflets.

Not suitable for growing garden strawberries and lowlands. In these places in the fall, the growth of the plant slows down, as a result it does not have time to prepare for wintering and dying. Even if you can overcome this danger - there is another. In the lowlands in strawberries, the leaves are gaining strength, and the berries are minor and are often amazed by fungal diseases.

Second factor - wind protection

The question of the need to protect the controversial. On the one hand, the presence of obstacle for wind increases the yield of strawberries. On the other, it contributes to the development of gray rot. Consider every case.

Protection, whether it is a live fence or a number of trees, provides a number of factors necessary for the successful growing strawberry.

Slows wind speed - in winter snow cover will not be blown away, the plant is easier overgrown.
Reduces the evaporation of moisture - it is less likely to irrigate, the plant will quickly receive nutrients.
Fare of the flight bees due to the absence of wind - the flowers are better pollinated, more stronger is formed.

And in the spring, on the stations protected from the wind, the snow does not melt longer. The soil is saturated with moisture, the necessary strawberry during the period of active growth.

What of minuses? Experienced gardeners know: if a plot under the strawberry is located in lowlands, and also protected from the wind - the plant is often amazed by a gray rot. Frosts in this place will also be stronger than in an open place. Cold air will stumble on the hedge and will not leave the territory.

Conclusion: Take the features of the relief. For low-lying, protection is a hindrance, and in open areas will increase yield.

Third factor - the composition and structure of the soil

Making a bed for growing strawberries can practically on any soils. But in each case it is necessary to prepare. The following areas are completely unsuitable for cultivation.

With a rapidly broken dilute and oxo - these herbs will stop the growth of strawberries, the nutrients will be "stolen". " Destroy the weeds, then cook the garden.
Having many wires and larvae weevil - first destroy pests.
Wetlands or territory with a stagnation of melt waters. Without measures to drain the soil, strawberries will disappear and all the works will go to the pump.
Clean sands. The plant burns out and dies. It is possible to plant 2-3 years after thorough preparation, including the introduction of organics with a stall to a depth of 40 cm.

The optimal option for growing strawberries is thin soils or high humus soil. Suitable and black soil. The main condition is the water permeability of the soil and the depth of groundwater under least meter.

If you have never grown strawberries, do not know where to prepare a bed for it, I make a brief summary of the conditions for the right selection of the site.

Smooth, without holes place lit by the sun. Better with a slight bias.
The presence of wind protection in open areas and its absence in lowlands.
Fertile black soil or loam with good water permeability. Wetlands, sandy and clogged grass or pests. Plots require preliminary training.

The place is chosen, go to the direct preparation of the soil for growing strawberries.

Soil preparation for bed

In professional literature, it is often said that the strawberry is not recommended to grown on the beds. Why? Crickerel is called the surface raised above the ground level. It is believed that in this case the yield is lower due to moisture deficit.

If you are a novice gardener and the terms "Ampel cultivation" or "vertical bed" for you mean nothing, grow strawberries on a flat area that does not have elevation. Exception - lowlands. Groke is only good.

All measures described below for successful growing strawberry (garden strawberries) is better to spend in advance. The effect of them after the planting seedlings will be lower. Let's start.

We achieve the necessary acidity

For garden strawberries, weakly acidic and medium scale soils are suitable with a pH 5.0 - 5.5 level. Ideally, the analysis is best done in the laboratory. But, if there is no such possibility, you can determine the acidity of the soil yourself.

If the site has not cultivated before - inspect it. Pay attention to the signs that indicate the high acidity of the soil:

orange water in docks and depressions, containing a dark yellow precipitate;
the presence of a gray layer at a small depth of the soil surface;
the abundant presence of mint, sources, horse sorrel, dusty and clover.

The last indicator is not always credible. Plant seeds can be brought by wind or birds. For more accurate data, use the litmus strips, with which you without much difficulty determine the acidity of the soil on the plot.

The soil with high acidity must be subjected to lime. To do this, use:

hawed lime;
dolomite or lime flour;
ground chalk;
lime tuff;
cement dust.

Choose a means that it's easier to get. The optimal option is hated lime. The dosage depends on the type of soil and the level of acidity.

Lime will reduce acidity and increase the soil nutrition, increase the rate of mineralization of fertilizers.

Garden strawberries feels bad on recently crushed soils. The plants are damaged roots, which leads to a slowdown in the growth and lack of high yields. Therefore, the lime must be carried out three years before planning the garden strawberries on the bed.

We introduce fertilizers on the bed

Ideally, make fertilizers on the prepared beds needed a year before the strawberry bushes landing. However, if the deadlines are pressed, put the fertilizer in the spring, and plant seedlings in August or in the fall. Remember that the excess fertilizer is also harmful to strawberries, as well as the deficit. If you exceed the recommended dosages - the plants will develop leaves to the detriment of berries.

First, reap the area to a depth of 20 cm and remove the roots of weeding herbs. Then make fertilizers. For each square meter you need:

manure - 6 kg;
superphosphate - 50 g;
potassium chloride - 15 g;
ammonium sulfate - 25

If the problem is the latest three components - use the finished fruit-berry mixture in the dosages recommended by the manufacturer. After making fertilizers, redo the beds for strawberries.

And so sneeze strawberries on agrofiber.

Immediately before planting seedlings of garden strawberries, align and roll the rolle the prepared beds. This will allow you to accurately place young bushes of strawberries on the desired depth and will provide better survival rate.

Strawberry bed preparation

Good afternoon, dear readers!

Today we will talk about landing strawberries in the fall. Strawberry real queen berries. Her appearance is waiting for every gardener. Delicious and bright berry has many advantages. It matures the very first.

It contains a large amount of vitamins, so it will be very useful to weakened organism. Due to the successful content of antioxidants and trace elements, it can be used as a medicine. It will help with diabetes, anemia, elevated pressure, atherosclerosis.

But strawberries is a rather capricious plant. Newcomers face many difficulties. Berry bush can dry, weakly fruit. Often it attacked slugs. To have less problems with a plant, it is better to plant this culture in the fall.

Proper strawberry landing in autumn

Putting the strawberry in the fall, you will be able to collect the first harvest in the summer. With the spring landing, as a rule, the summer of berries does not happen. In addition, in the fall of gardeners more time. There is a good weather on the yard, there are always a lot of planting material.

Thanks to warm weather, young bushes are well rooted, they will take it in a new place and they will penetrate well.

Thanks to autumn landing, gardeners will make less efforts to care for the plant. They will have the opportunity to restore running plantations.

Strawberry need not only to plant on time, but also right.

Strawberry landing deadlines in autumn

There are three lime for autumn planting strawberry bushes.

The term of the landing date is from mid-August to mid-September.

Under late-year period, the plant can be planted a month before frosts.

Landing time Each gardener can determine independently, given the cycle of the development of strawberries and weather conditions of their locality. As a rule, most berry varieties throw a mustache in June-July. They are rooted in July-August, and the fruit kidneys are formed in September-October.

The highest yields can be obtained at the early royalty and medium landing. I prefer to disassemble the mustache at the end of August, now the other day I will do.

Landing strawberries with a mustache is best made in autumn. Optimal is the period from August 20 to September 15. Later it is not recommended to do this, as Berry bushes are not fixed and will suffer during freezing. Even the protective film will not help. After that, the plant will be difficult to grow.

A favorable day for planting strawberries can be found in the lunar calendar of the gardener. You should know that strawberry beds update once every 3-4 years. So that strawberry bushes gave birth well, they must be transplanted gradually.

If every year you will replant one bed, you will always have a good harvest. It is best to have three strawberry beds on the site, you will replant them every three years. Places for the beds periodically change.

The best predecessors for strawberries are rootfields - beets, carrots, radish. It will grow well after dill, celery, lettuce, garlic.

After potatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, peppers, cabbage strawberries are not recommended. If the plants were infected with viral diseases, they will switch to strawberry bushes.

Preparation of beds to the landing of strawberries

Strawberries have no special requirements for soils. It is suitable for all types of soil. The best harvest of berries can be collected if we grow strawberries in the sugary, sublinous soil, chernozem.

The yield will decrease if strawberry bushes are planted in peat, sandy, clay, ferrous-podzolic soil. On wetlands, the berry bush will not grow.

Before planting the plant, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, improving the composition of the soil. In severe clay soil, it is best to make some peat, manure and humus. This will improve aeration.

You can also sow siturates. Grokes, where they plan to grow strawberries, slanting and lupine land. In the spring they are mounted and cheered, mixing with the top layer of the earth. This procedure improves the structure of the soil, enriches land with nitrogen.

Thanks to it, there is a smaller number of fertilizers. Weeds will fight easier. In addition, these plants are afraid of pests. Current cultivation will help gardeners save.

If there is no time to grow sita, in the soil before planting strawberries, 100 grams of superphosphate should be made, 60 grams of potash salts, 10 kilograms of humus (one square kilometer of the site).

Strawberries are very fond of insect pests. Wirefronts, Colorado beetles and strawberry nematodes are the greatest danger. It is very important to check the future beds so that there is no larvae of pests. If you discovered them, you need to process the soil with water with the addition of ammonia. It is equally important to clear the site from weeds.

Strawberries prefers well-lit plots. She is a "voracious" berry. For normal growth and development, she needs not only good land, but also compost. Biohumus or manure, ash should be made to the soil.

Strawberry seedlings need deep and wide wells. Between them should be a distance of at least 30-50 cm. Between the rows, the interval is 40 cm. After measuring the ground from the wells, it must be mixed with a bucket of compost, and two glasses of reworked manure. The cooked soil falls asleep back into the holes, making small hilly in the center of the grooves.

Selection of planting material, preparation of seedlings

To get a good strawberry harvest, you need to choose the seedlings correctly.

Preference should be given to bushes with a root neck with a diameter of more than 6 mm. The seedlings should have a urine root system with the root processes more than 7 cm. A good seedlings of 3-5 formed leaflets and white juicy roots.

If you buy seedlings on the market or take the neighbors, it should be placed quickly. If it is not possible to put it right away, it can be picked into a wet loose land in the shaded area or put it in a cool room, pre-wrapped the roots in a slightly hummable moss.

If you put young bushes grown from seeds, then a few days before the landing of strawberries, the seedlings should be placed in a cool place. Before boarding the root, you should suck into the clay bolt. This will prevent their breathing, improve their accessibility in a new place.

Strawberry seedlings landing rules

Saplings of strawberry bushes need to plant in a wet soil. It is best to do it in cloudy weather in the evening.
During the planting seedlings should be in the shade.
Too long root system is shortened to 7-10 cm.
An hour before disembarking strawberry seedlings, the seedlings are well water or soaked in the growth biostimulant.
Many experienced gardeners before planting strawberry bushes are kept in garlic nasty. This procedure scares pests.
Excess sheets on seedlings are removed.

When landing, each strawberry chopper is installed on the earthlings, so that the growth point comes into contact with the surface of the bed. Roots of the plant must be strained by the slopes of the Holloch. Holding the berry bush, it falls asleep the earth and shed water. So that the soil does not swing, the wells of plants that were poured, pumped up the earth or humus. Immediately after planting the soil, it is necessary to explode so that water freely goes to the roots of strawberries.

Strawberry breeding Usami

You can breed a strawberry mustache. When fruits appear on a bush, the most promising bushes with large and healthy berries should be selected to obtain a new offspring. They must be annual or two-year-old.

For reproduction, rather large outlets are chosen, which depart from bushes. They are planted in a seaside pot and pinch. It is necessary to leave only the largest outlets.

Throwing shoots that connect a rosette with strawberry bush are removed. From the second order, the third order is also needed to get rid of.

With the appearance of 4-6 leaves in July, the remaining mustache cuts off, the bush is transplanted to a permanent place. At the same time, the remains of the soil with the roots are not necessary. After transplanting a strawberry bush to pour.

Mustache of strawberries

Growing under agrofiber

Thanks to the cultivation of bushes under the agricultural crop, strawberries can be collected for one week earlier. After snow comes down, berry bushes are covered with agrovolok, which will protect them from severe frosts and drafts. Due to it, inside the bushes will be the optimal temperature, which is necessary for optimal growth and development of the plant. With stable weather, when the landing material will not threaten anything, you can remove it.

Thanks to the agrovolock and tunnel, the delicious berry matures two weeks earlier. For this, wire frames are installed along the strawberry rows at a distance of one meter. For this purpose, a thick wire is used (4-6 mm). Frames deepen 25-30 cm deep. From above, they must be copper and hiding agrofibular, jamming the ends into the ground. During warm weather, the ends of Agrofolokna are opened on the ventilation. With progressive weather, the material is fully discovered. Close the agrovolock strawberry beds after the plant is wondering.

You can not only cover the strawberries with nonwoven material, but also Put strawberry seedlings on observer material. Often I use a black pasta material.

For this, the prepared beds are covered with agricultural and make cross-shaped slits for planting and bushes at a distance of 40 per 40 cm.

These holes plant strawberry mustache or seedlings, wipe well.

Care is reduced to a minimum - you need to monitor watering.

Weeds under dense cloth do not germinate.
Agrofibling passes air and water
Earth temperature for several degrees above
Berries do not come into contact with the earth - do not rot and always clean

Strawberry Saplings Care Rules

After landing behind the strawberry, it is quite difficult to care for. Lined strawberries should have a healthy and strong root system. If there will appear on the strawberry bushes, the flowers and mustache will appear, they must be removed.

The first days after landing the berry bush needs moderate watering. The plant is watered from the watering can be in small portions of water. The top layer of the Earth should always be wet. Moisture helps grow new roots. Old roots help support bush. Ten days of watering increase the amount of water, but watering the plant less often so that its roots are well absorbed moisture.

20 days after landing, the bushes will be ready for wintering. Under adverse conditions - in 50 days.

Strawberry is not afraid of rains and frosts. The greatest danger is dry weather for it. Before strong frosts, the bushes need to pour well.

In winter, snow cover will protect the plant from severe frosts. If you live in a region with a minor winter, it is necessary to take care of the plant in advance. After landing, a plot with a lined strawberry must be meditated. As a material for mulch, it is best to use cheva. She not only scares the pests, but also protects the plant from diseases. If there are no needles, it is suitable for straw, dry foliage, hay, sawdust. Without shelter, the plant will die.

An early spring from the site is cleaned by the old mulch, under which she winterized. The flawed bushes are cleaned, remove old and deformed leaves.

To remove all sorts of pests and heating the soil, 3 cm of the upper layer of the Earth is removed. The soil barely loose.

Look

Video on the landing of strawberry Usami

Landing strawberries in autumn is the key to a new crop for several years.

Sincerely, Sophia Guseva.

Few people in the light of people who would not love strawberries. And indeed: how can a man, exhausted avitaminosis, even under the fear of possible allergies, do not love this first spring beroda - the harbinger of all summer abundance? Therefore, prices for it in stores are such translated, even though the strawberry is the berry cultivated in production scale; Therefore, dacms and residents of the village area are trying to allocate in their plot at least a small piece under this culture - so that plenty, not being scared with prices, to enjoy it. If the site of the individual compound is large enough, then on the cultivation of strawberries it is possible to work well, taking into account the constant demand for it, which does not even scare away even steadily high prices.

However, it is no secret to anyone that strawberries (or, to be accurate, garden (pineapple) strawberries) - a very capricious culture that requires a careful relationship. Only with the appropriate efforts can be obtained from her good harvest. And it should be started with the preparation of the bed.

General requirements

Preparation of beds for planting strawberries is a very time-consuming business and very responsible. From the competent choice and approach to its arrangement directly depends on whether your crop will be rich or not. And even if you plan to grow strawberries only for your own consumption, depends on the choice of land and the place of disembarking bushes, whether the strawberries will delight with their berries or will die in the heighter.

Choosing a place to locate strawberry beds, you should remember that:

It should be sunny (strawberry does not make a shadow or even hint on it), so it is best to smash the beds in an open place, free even from garden trees - first, due to the shadow, and secondly, due to a possible spraying trees with various drugs. The fact that one will benefit will be fatal for the second. In addition, the plot set under the strawberries should be smooth and slightly sublime, so that the groundwater is not suitable for its surface. In the lowland, the strawberries do not fit.
The beds must be protected from wind. If such cultures like currant and gooseberry grow on the site, then there is no special problem with the choice: the strawberry can be planted between them, and they will serve as reliable protection. If there are no currants, no gooseberry, it is necessary to look for other ways to solve this problem.
The best kind of soil for it is sandy-loom or sandy, enriched with humus. It can also take touch in areas with sour soil. Less than all strawberries are suitable for limestone and silent sections, as well as those where groundwaters are highlighted.
An important condition for the future yield is also the cultures preceded strawberries. All legumes are considered the best predecessors (especially peas and beans), greens, corn, carrots and radishes. Unwanted predecessors include all major agricultural vegetables: potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, eggplants and peppers. Although in some sources you can find a statement that strawberries can be fruit and after tomatoes, and to give very large fruits. Perhaps the whole thing in a variety - as you know, there are more than two thousand varieties of this berry, of which the part is removed (i.e., it is capable of fruiting and blossoming during one growing period) - or in how to prepare and process the land after As tomatoes grew on it ...
The plot must be large, since the bushes need to plant on a relatively decent distance from each other.

The best location of strawberry beds is the south-eastern part of the garden or courtyard.

How to prepare a bed for strawberries

Preparation of the selected area for the landing of strawberries does not seem to be so complicated as the future courtship for this culture, and implies the following actions:

Full of terrain cleaning from foliage, sticks and branches - if a brand new site is chosen under the strawberries, nor under the previously used.
Packet of land to the depth of one pin shovels. This must be done in the event that the site was used by anything, and if it was not used.
Leveling of the plot of robbles and the introduction of organic fertilizer - at least one bucket of humus or compost per square meter. m. landing. It is possible to lay it in specially dug trenches on the site of future beds, and on top of scattering superphosphate according to the instructions or its mixture with sand and humus; It can be limited to the distribution over the surface of organic fertilizers. If there were already predecessors on the chosen plot in the strawberry, it is recommended to treat the Earth with phytoosporin for such a recipe: 1 part of the instant paste into 2 parts of the nicerized (rain) water, then 1 tbsp. l. Ready of 10 liters. Water per 1 sq.m.
Marking of the territory for future strawberry stripes. Between the beds it is best to make furrows, which not only will be separated, but also to accumulate rainwater, thereby restricting moisture access to the roots of bushes. The height of such furrows should be 20-25 cm. Lower than the Ginochka itself. In addition, during the harvest on such furrows, it is very convenient to advance through the strawberry plantation: the risk of damaging the bushes is minimized.

The next thing to pay attention is the size of the beds and the ways to improve their arrangement. The most optimal width of one strawberry beds on the plantation is recognized as a distance of 70-80 cm., Where you can easily place two parallel rows with a distance of 30-40 cm. From each other. The length of the garden depends on the possibilities of the garden of the Garden and you as its owner. The distance from the edge of the garden is not particularly regulated, but, as the experience of gardeners shows, 20-25 cm. It is a completely normal, acceptable and generally accepted parameter. The remaining sizes are:

The distance between the bushes in each row and the width of the groove landing is 30-40 cm. It is ultimately not recommended to plant bushes on a closer distance: in pursuit of the amount of berries you will get a completely opposite result, and with the growth and formation of the mustache, the bushes will begin to come together. In addition, with a close range, there will be difficulties in weeding and the risks of damage to the culture itself and distribution among the bushes of various diseases.
The depth of furrow - at least 20 cm.
The height of the bed depends on the type of construction: for low 20-40 cm, for high - 90 cm.

If you make a plot wider, then care for it and collect the harvest can be difficult.

As for the ways of landing, the most common are the following:

Carpet (or solid carpet), in which bushes are planted with chess order at a distance of 25 cm. From each other and at the same distance between the rows.
Rows with a distance of 70 cm. From each other (that is, one row is assumed on one bed).
Tapes (or sockets) in two, three and five lines. The tape in two lines implies landing of two rows with a distance between them at 30-40 cm. Between the bushes - 25 cm., And between the beds - at 60-70 cm; Three-string tape implies landing of three rows with a distance of 25-30 cm. From each other and between bushes and 60-70 cm. Between the beds; With the five-line tape, the distance between rows and bushes is 15 cm., And between the beds - 60 cm.

If you wish, you can protect the beds with slate or something similar. This will prevent possible encroachment of slugs on strawberry plantation.

How to make beds with strawberries

If ordinary plantations seem to you boring and monotonous landscape, there is always a place and the opportunity to plant strawberries in your own way, unusually and creatively. Amateur gardening has long been stepped far forward not only in terms of developing agrotechnic techniques aimed at obtaining a good crop, but also in terms of design of crops. In addition to classic horizontal beds, there are also:

Vertical.
Country-pyramids, or multi-storey beds.
Warm (or low German) beds.

In addition to the originality, which the yard or garden is attached to these forms and species, they also have some practical advantages. For example, the advantages of vertical strawberry beds are as follows:

They save place and are an excellent option for those gardeners who have a household plot have a small size, or for those who live in a high-rise building (such beds are very convenient and well placed on the usual balcony or loggia, and for the winter they can be reached in the apartment ).
They reduce the risk of bush damage by many pests.
It is convenient to care for them - for example, it is not necessary to lean each time and thereby loading your back (no doubt, for some people it is an indisputable advantage).
They do not have total thickens.
They are decorative. Such beds are the original homeland decoration.

From the disadvantages inherent in such designs, it is possible to name that the need for frequent watering and feeding (fertilizers should be made almost weekly) and the need for shelter for the winter (in such soil containers quickly freezes). True, if you add hydrogel to the soil substrate, then the frequency of watering can be significantly reduced, and if it also solve the problem with covering for the winter, almost all obstacles to their establishment will be overcome.

The material from which the gardener can make vertical beds are not inferior in the creativity of the form itself. It can be:

Car tires. The flowers made of them are also called "High German Groinings". The basis in it is the tires of a heavy truck, for the second tier, smaller tires are used, for the tops - the tires from the passenger cars. The bottom is covered with the grid, in the tires themselves, with the help of the chisels, the holes for the berries with a diameter of 7-10 cm are cut. At a distance of 15-20 cm. From each other, and the base is filled with a humor with a humus or prepared substrate. Before falling down bushes, the ground must be poured with water - simple or with the addition of manganese. However, this material should be approached very carefully: it is low-environment and is able to allocate toxins, which is why the soil has to change at least once every two years.
Metal or PVC pipes. Typically use two pipes with a diameter of 120-150 mm. and 20 mm. In a wide tube in checkered order, holes are cut into it, the rotated burlap is inserted into it, used for irrigation, the remaining space is filled with a decade-penimetime layer of gravel and earth or substrate. There is another option using a single metal or plastic tube of large (about 10 cm.) Diameter: in it, the holes are done in the helix with a diameter of 10-12 cm. At a distance of 20-30 cm. From each other, the inner cavity is falling asleep , Then it takes to disembark the bushes. A variant is also possible, in which the upper part of the pipe is completely removed, and the remaining part is equipped in the remaining part.
Sugar bags or flour. You can use them in general, and you can make it possible to make sovereign flower beds. If a solid bag is used, it is filled with a mixture of a fertilous land and humus, then it makes cuts in a checker order (no more than three or four), and the distance between them depends on the selected variety and its spreadability, and bushes are planted. The bag itself can be suspended on the solar wall. Watering such a garden is made through the top, and the excess moisture always goes through the bottom.
Any air and a water permeable strong material from which you can sew a stand with pockets for individual bushes. For a stand, a piece of one and a half or two meters of any width is usually chosen to the stand, the pockets of the smooth layer are sewn and the fasteners are sewn. This piece is hanging on the wall or on the fence, the pockets are filled with the substrate, and the bushes of strawberries are settled in them (one in each pocket). The complexity of such a design is that each bush is individually needed and water, and feed, but this is compensated by its original appearance, which will surely go to the deception of the courtyard.

Not only vertical beds, but also beds-pyramids, which also accommodate a lot of bushes are performed the role of the design decoration. Their form can be both square and triangular: the first option is practical, and it is convenient to work with it, the second original in terms of design. Mashed them in this way: first the frame is prepared, then the pyramid is put on the bottom of the pyramid, it form a pillow from sawdust and only then all this fall asleep with fertile soil. Similarly, each tier of the pyramid is manufactured, but each time it should be smaller than the previous one. In such beds, as in vertical, made of tires, most often plant varieties like Brighton, Elasanta or Elizabeth Second.

The pyramids can be made not only from the wooden frame, but also from the same auto strokes of different sizes. It is done like this:

On one side of each tire, the protector is cut.
Based on the largest tire.
A grid or geotextile is stacked on the bottom, the soil is embanked on top. In this way, the second tier is equipped.
When the pyramid was erected, thousands of strawberries are done in the soil.
The earth is moisturized, and bushes are planted in it.

High (they are also raised) Groans are good because:

They provide good drainage, thanks to which the roots are prevented.
The soil is rapidly heated on them (that is, the berries are faster than ripen), it is not covered and always remains loose, which means that the roots of strawberries receive more oxygen and other nutrients.
They can be given any shape, up to winding, which, without a doubt, serves as an decoration of the household site.
For their arrangement, you can use the purchase of soil, famous for its balance. In addition, the device of such beds does not seem to be too complicated.

High beds have only one significant drawback - the soil dries quickly in them. However, it is possible to partially cope with this difficulty if you deepen them about 20 cm. In Earth.

If you decide to such a design and garden experiment, it does not interfere with the following recommendations of experienced gardeners:

For localities with a harsh climate, the beds are best suited for 20-25 cm high. - With such a height, they will be under the snow, and strawberries calmly worries the winter. Higher design will lead to the fact that its boards will not cover the snow, and the plantation will freeze.
When choosing a bed length should be processed from the size of the site. It is important that it looks not only in designer original, but also in harmony with the surrounding area.
If the approach to the plantation is possible only on the one hand, its width should not exceed 60 cm., If on both sides, then 1-1.2 meters.

Another type of beds - warm. By and large, they almost do not differ from high beds with the difference that they have several layers: drainage, heat generating layer and soil itself. Most often they can be found in areas where there is a threat of return freezers until mid-June. There are three types of warm beds:

Frame. This type, in which all the lower layers and the fertile layer are stacked in a special box, suitable for regions with high humidity, wetlands or frequent rains. The frame is made of boards, slate or metal profile.
Bulk. According to its form, it is nothing more than a raised garden-hill with a warmed bottom. It is done like this:

on the width of the garden from 40 cm. A trench of a depth of one bayonet shovets is digging.
on the bottom of each other, a small metal mesh is stacked, which will protect the design from mouse-tolets, chopped large and fine dry branches (the thickness of this layer usually does not exceed 20 cm.), and from above - sawdust, fine wood chips, any dry or fresh Plant trash (coughing grass, leaves), compost or humus. Between branches and sawdust can also be laid a layer of cardboard and newspapers.
everything laid is thoroughly tamped and watering warm water.
the fertile land is stacked from above - for example, the black mill - in such a way that it turns out to be a small tubercle - it will prevent the entire settlement of the Earth. If you wish, you can protect the edges of the beds with boards or make them gentle.

Such a type is most relevant for those places where groundwater is far from the surface, and the garden does not threaten the threat of flooding or stagnation of moisture.

Combined. This type combines the elements of the first two: the lower layers are stacked in the trench, and the upper one in the size of 60 cm. Height and 90 - width.

Watering high and warm beds is required, as their design does not involve root access to groundwater. To do this, drip watering different types (systemic or using plastic bottles) or standard with a hose or special sprinklers.

Another type of bed - so-called Mobile or portable, attracting with its versatility, decorativeness and possibility of installation anywhere. Material for her can serve as anything: bath, metal / wooden barrel, old car, bucket, flower porridge - in general, from everything that was not used, you can try to make a mobile strawberry bed. Especially comfortable are plastic or wooden perforated boxes from under vegetables. The beds of them are obtained in this way:

From the inside the box is covered with several layers of cellophane.
Capacity is filled with earth and humus.
Two bushes of strawberries are planted in each box, and improvised flower beds are placed in a sunny place. To protect the beds from frosts, they can be installed on brica or bricks.

You can use to create a bed and galvanized boxes. With its ease, this design is durable, durable and wear-resistant, and the low thermal conductivity of the material does not allow it to heat up, being in the sun. For the winter, such boxes should be removed, but if necessary, they easily disassemble.

Some features of the material for strawberry beds

As we have already spoken, the material for strawberry plantations can serve as anything. Most often, experienced gardeners use:

Boards.
Slate.
Tires.

We have already spoken about the features of auto strokes and working with them. Slate is good with its durability, simplicity in the construction and accessibility, however, with all this, the asbestos cement contained in it is harmful to the soil. If it does not bother you, then using slate to arrange strawberry beds, it is desirable to adhere to the following recommendations:

Board should be deepened by 10-20 cm.
Fences does not interfere with strengthening metal corners and pull over the cross.
Two slate sheet can be connected to a welded plate with a fitting leg.
If you use a wavy slate, it can be mounted on a wooden or metal frame.

When working with boards, it is best to use wood, little prone to rotten: ash, oak, cedar or larch. If you chose pine boards, they need to be treated with a special protective coating.

Wooden boxes are equipped with the following way:

The selected area is placed, and on the perimeter it is removed.
There are trenches, boards are installed in them and driven under one level, then they bother to each other and fixed with self-draws. The average height of the box is 15 cm, but if necessary, the board are frozen further.
The bottom rushes geotextile and filled with drainage - pebbles, rubble, chips of stones - the soil is laid on top and bushes are planted.

The shape of the boxes can be the most diverse - rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal, with beserved sides ... The main thing is that your strawberry in it is comfortable and abolished, and it was easy for her to care for her. The playground near such beds can be made - for example, lay out tiles and set the passage.

What and how to cover the bed

When furnaceing the beds is very important, then what and how you will cover. There are two types of curable material: organic (sawdust, coniferous needles, straw, etc.) and inorganic. The first type is attracted by its availability, but quickly decomposes and requires periodic replacement. And if there are usually difficulties in the village terrain in order to get it, then for those who live in the private sector of a big city, it can represent a big problem.

The second type includes modern materials from spanbond type polypropylene, agrotex, agryl, agrospana and Lutrasil. They are good because they do not react with liquid and chemical compounds. If you decide to use them, then you will probably use the following tips:

Two weeks before the shelter should be prepared for this plantation: to align the surface, moisturize and feed the soil.
If two-layer fiber is used, be sure to check the water-repellent side below. So you will prevent the earth drying.
When shelting, such a scheme of the bed distribution is recommended: the distance between rows is 45 cm., Between the bushes - 40 cm. The film is lined up on plantation, and cross-cutting holes are cut in it. If the bushes are already planted, the film is covered with a color, then the bushes are groped under it and the holes are made.
Before consolidation, be sure to check the tension - it should be free, but do not develop. Only after checking it makes sense to fix the film, which is fixed throughout the perimeter with metal studs, boards or plowing ground. It is important to ensure that the holes are not formed - this will lead to the fact that the material will begin to shift and swell.

Conclusion

As we said, strawberries - a very capricious culture, followed by careful and attentive care, even if you do not plan to earn on it. However, experience shows that with proper perseverance and perseverance, it can be successfully grown even where it would seem, in general inappropriate climate. In addition, all the efforts of the strawberry will pay apart with interest. True, efforts will have to attach really a lot, and the arrangement of the beds is not the most difficult stage of work.

Strawberry (otherwise garden strawberries) - a very tasty and useful berry. But that the plant gives juicy, fragrant fruits, it is important not only to choose a culture variety and ensure proper care for a perennial plant. An indispensable condition for obtaining a plentiful harvest is the correct preparation of the seat under the landing. We will tell you how to prepare a bed under the strawberry, what kind of soil is suitable for normal growth and plant development, and at what time it is better to plant a culture.

When growing strawberries in one place for longer than 3 years, the berries become smaller, yield decreases, so after this period, the landing site is changed.

Preparation of beds under the strawberry begins with the choice of the optimal landing site. The plant does not make excessive moisture that you need to consider when planning. If the groundwater is close to the surface of the earth, the beds are made high so that water is not formed. It is equally important to provide a plant with good lighting throughout the day. The lack of light will negatively affect the quality and quantity.

Best strawberry predecessors are grain, cereals and legumes. And on the site of growing potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers or cabbage, the plant is impossible - the plant can be infected with various diseases.

The quality of soil

So that the harvest was abundant, strawberries need to be planted into the appropriate soil. Soil fit for landing:

easy;
well-transmitting moisture and air;
fertile;
without dispute, mold, viruses and larvae insect pests;
with low acidity (optimal pH level - from 5 to 6).

Strawberry will not develop and will not give a crop on limestone and salt land, excessively acidic soil with a pH indicator below 5.

Structure

Optimal in composition for strawberries is considered humid or nervous land. A berry culture on medium divided soils, which contain many organic components, is feeling comfortable, and are not acidic. But such a soil is heavy, and requires additional deposit.

A good breakdler serve overwhelmed wood sawdust. If the raw material is not enough, it is soaked in urea solution (2 tablespoons of urea, divorced in 2 liters of water by 10 kg of sawdust). After a couple of hours, the ashes are added to the clouds, everything is mixed.

For breaking, you can use peat - it absorbs well and keeps moisture. But some flower products believe that peat for strawberries is not suitable due to its acidity. If you use peat, then for each bucket you need to add no less than a glass of ash. It is important to remember that the asna can be added to the soil in the fall, since calcium contained in it will prevent the full growth and development of the plant in spring.

To burst the soil, you can use clean, coarse-grained river sand, but not more than a tenth of the total volume of the mixture.

Beginner gardeners who do not have their own developments can use the soil substrate consisting of equal amounts:

turf soil;
humus;
peat;
small sawdust (from deciduous trees).

Disinfection

Typically, insect pests, spores of fungi and other pathogens of typical strawberry diseases live in the turf. Therefore, you need a mandatory processing of soil, which is carried out in early spring, after the earth fills. To get rid of the seeds of weeds, the dispute and larvae of insects use ammonium water (1 liter of 5 meters square square) or the drug Roundap.

Preparation of soil

How to prepare a bed under the strawberries to grow healthy plants and get a rich harvest? The preparation process includes several stages. It:

cleaning the selected landing space (you need to remove from the plot, branches, foliage and garbage);
packet of land and making fertilizers;
marking and formation of beds.

The land is deeply loosen on the bayonet shovel. If a strawberry is seated in summer or at the beginning of autumn, the soil loosening needs to be carried out no later than a month before landing. For the spring planting of strawberries, the soil needs to be thrown in September. At the peroxide per square meter of the land area, they bring:

6-8 kg humus or compost;
50 g nitrogen fertilizers;
about 80-100 g of superphosphate;
50-60 g of potassium salt.

If the strawberry will land in the spring, fertilizers are brought in the fall of the previous year. If the dates of sowing strawberries are outlined at the end of summer and the beginning of autumn, the soil enriched with the nutritional components in the spring.

Landing strawberries in the summer should be carried out after the rain or irrigation, while the spring is still wet and watering the wells when planting a culture is not necessarily.

For normal growth, the strawberry requires free space, and when planting bushes, they can die close to each other.

Formation of a garden

There are many ways to form beds for planting strawberries, but the following are common:

simple method;
low German beds;
locking strawberries in barrels;
landing strawberry bushes under the agriculture.

Easy way

Most often for strawberries, simple beds are equipped with a width of about 20 cm. At the same time, the distance between the planked bushes is from 30 to 40 cm. The optimal width of the groove between each side of the landing is 30-40 cm.

The beds are located on the elevation: the separating rows of the furrows are made by 20-25 cm below the landing themselves. This ensures good rainwater outflows, which significantly reduces the risk of spreading pests and strawberry diseases. The optimal direction of the beds - from the east to the west side. With this location of the strawberry will be covered evenly throughout the day.

Low German Country under Strawberry

The essence of the method is that there are not ordinary furrows between the rows of strawberries, but are plants from boards or bricks, flat or fibrous asbetic sheets.

Low German beds are made of 20 to 40 cm high, 40-80 cm wide. When arranging wide beds, strawberries are planted in two rows. The distance between the adjacent bushes of strawberries in the row is 40 cm. Between the beds, furrows are paved or there are passes from broken bricks, paving slabs.

Preparation of beds for planting strawberries This method includes several stages.

The location of future beds and tracks is determined, the site markup is marked.
There is a trench of a depth of up to 40 cm.
The bottom of the trench falls asleep in chips or sawdusts, slices of wood, old newspapers and other materials that have been rotating for a long time.
The remaining space of the trench is filled with nutritional soil mixed with humus.
The earth is recreated.

So looks like a low german bed.

Watering planted plants can be performed:

from the hose under the root system (in order to avoid blurring the water of the soil, the end of the hose is wrapped with a cloth);
from the watering can be held in a circle (in the heat and drought per square meter of the Earth, about 10 liters of water is consumed).

The plot prepared in this way has a number of benefits:

facilitated access to plants;
due to the fences, the spread of diseases and pests to healthy plants is prevented;
strawberry bushes mustache are not confused.

High beds from barrels or tires

They differ from low beds with a height of about 80-90 cm. The main advantage of their advantage is convenience: when performing agrotechnical works, you do not need to bend low. Such beds are easier to clean from weeds, mulch. Melts and harvest. But the size of the landing with this method will be small - after all, no more than 4-5 bushes of strawberries will fit into one bus or barrel.

Stages of formation:

filling the barrel or tire with a mixture of soil and humus;
watering the soil with conventional water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
strawberry bushes landing (no more than 5 pieces in one barrel or tire);
planting by film, providing faster plant growth.

When growing strawberries in barrels, the soil should be changed every two years, no less often. This will give the opportunity to support the high yield of culture.

Behind the strawberry planted in tires and barrels, it is easier to care for.

Landing for agrovolocnel

Extraction of strawberries for agricultural - an affordable and convenient method, less laborious compared to cultivation of culture in the usual way. More often, the gardeners use black agrofiber, but the material of white can be used at rigid growth conditions. You can purchase agrofiber in any specialized store.

Preparation of the beds is carried out in the same way: the soil is drunk and frozen, fertilizers are made, a platform for sowing is made. After preparation, fiber laying is carried out.

The material is placed in such a way that one side of the film covers the other by 15 cm. In the perimeter, the agricultural fiber is pressed by stones or other heavy objects, the earth is sprinkled. Then the material is fixed with metal studs (60 cm long wire is cut, bended in the middle). Prepared brackets are installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

Further, in places of planting bushes on agrovolokin, cruciform cuts produce a sharp knife. The cutting angles turn away, placed inside a strawberry bush. Landing is not too deep, immediately after planning strawberries watered.

Further care is carried out in the same way as with the usual cultivation of culture. However, labor costs will be minimal, since it will disappear in the strengthened struggle with weeds and pests, the trimming of the mustache (the strawberries under the agriculture practically do not grow).

The agricultural helps to protect the plant from frosts, keep the harvest in rainy weather.

Mulching soil

ruberoid;
pergamine;
packing cardboard;
straw;
dry grass;
sawdust.

The mulching layer protects not only from weed, but also from various diseases. All sorts of rotes do not affect strawberries, since the berries are not in contact with the soil. As a result, the yield of culture increases.

Landing time

Culture can be planted in spring, depending on weather conditions in the middle of April or early May. But the optimal time to landing strawberries is August and the beginning of September. Later to plant a strawberry undesirable - the plants will not have time to prepare for winter, which will affect their further growth and development.

Dates of planting strawberries It is important to observe for another reason. If in the fall, it is not time to plant a culture by the end of September, the future harvest can not be waiting at all, since the slightest frosts will lead to the death of plants.

Knowing how to prepare a bed near strawberries, you can prevent many problems that arise when growing culture. Competent location of the beds will provide plants rapid growth and development, protection against diseases and pest attacks. And the time spent and effort will reimburse the abundant harvest.