How to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard. We sheathe the ceiling from the lining with our own hands - a step-by-step guide. What is lining

The abundance of various building materials on the market allows the owners of apartments and houses to carry out ceiling repairs in accordance with modern trends and fashion. Stretch and suspended structures of ceilings have become very common nowadays. However, for lovers of rustic style and natural materials, ordinary wooden lining looks more attractive. In this article we will tell you how to properly sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, choose the right materials and assemble the lathing. All those who decide to equip the ceiling with wooden lining should be prepared for the fact that this process will require a large investment of labor, time and patience.

We select the lining for the ceiling

More recently, when it came to the ceiling lining, they meant exactly the wooden curly strips. However, at present, the construction market offers several varieties of lining. Based on the purpose of the premises, material capabilities and preferences of the buyer, you can choose one or another material.

The material for the manufacture of lining can be:

wood;
polyvinyl chloride;
MDF boards.

It is worth dwelling in more detail on each of the materials.

Wooden lining

In the case of finishing the ceiling with wooden clapboard, the natural rustic style of the room is preserved. Lining made of wood is used in rooms for any purpose and is absolutely safe for human health. Depending on the type of wood, the price of this building material varies. Most often, the lining is made from alder, cedar, fir, oak, aspen, larch and other types of wood.

Pine has antiseptic properties as it is rich in resins. These substances transform the formation of mold on the surface of the lining. In addition, pine itself is considered a fairly even tree, with few knots, which makes it ideal for creating wall clapboards.

Lining made of coniferous wood is considered almost universal, in contrast to hardwood, which are used mainly indoors. However, any wood is susceptible to moisture, so it must be impregnated with special agents and provided with air so that it can be ventilated.

Depending on the quality of the wood, there are 4 types of lining:

Top class (extra). Such a board looks perfect on the outside, there are no chips, dents or cracks on it. The price for such a material is very high, since it is made by splicing. With high humidity, this material begins to crack, therefore, this lining is not used in damp rooms.
Class A. Small knots are allowed, but there are no other defects on such material. As a rule, this particular category of lining is chosen by the majority of consumers.
Class B. Small defects may appear on the surface of the board. Although such lining is usually not used in residential premises, it is best suited for cladding balconies and country cottages.
Grade C. This is the lowest grade material with a large number of knots and defects.

Characteristics of MDF lining

In appearance, the ceiling made of MDF lining resembles a wooden laminate, although this material, in fact, is a slab of pressed sawdust. This material is very sensitive to moisture. At the slightest contact with water, it begins to swell, while losing its appearance and original quality.

It is worth noting that MDF lining is used more often for walls than for ceilings. It allows you to organize various decorative elements and diversify the interior. In addition, the material has high thermal and noise insulation qualities.

If desired, you can combine MDF lining with different colors and textures. Installation of such material is not difficult.

Features of PVC lining

Sheathing the ceiling with PVC clapboard is an excellent option, since the material is very easy to use and easy to install. However, it should be remembered that PVC strips are fragile and very easy to damage.

There are two types of PVC lining:

with seams;
seamless.

Seamless lining allows you to create an almost solid, smooth surface on which the seams between the individual planks are almost invisible. If you want to create a surface that resembles a lining, you should use panels with seams.

One of the main advantages of PVC panels is that they are resistant to humid environments. Nevertheless, it is worth avoiding direct sunlight on such a ceiling, since under ultraviolet light the lining will begin to lose its original color.

Thus, the best options for finishing the ceiling with clapboard will be plastic (PVC) panels, as well as wooden strips.

Calculation of materials

Before sheathing the ceiling with clapboard in a wooden house, you should take care of purchasing a sufficient amount of material so that during the work process you do not need to take breaks for additional purchases. The standard dimensions of one lining board are 15 cm wide, 600 cm long and 1.2-2.5 cm thick. These are the requirements of GOST 8242-88.

For the interior decoration of the premises, panels with a thickness of less than 1.6 cm are used, and for the exterior - from 1.8 cm or more. To determine the number of boards for finishing the ceiling with eurolining, it is necessary to calculate the area of 1 plank and compare it with the total area of the sheathed surface. Thus, if we took a panel 9.5 cm wide and 6 m long, its total area would be 0.57 m 2.

Suppose the total ceiling area in the room is 9 m 2. Then for work you need 9 ÷ 0.57 = 17.3≈18 boards. This is the minimum number of panels, since in the process of sheathing, the width of the canvas will be reduced due to the peculiarities of the installation of the lining. It is fastened with a comb into a groove.

Material quality control

After you have decided on the variety, color, as well as the amount of lining and delivered it to the place of work, you need to check its quality. On a horizontal flat surface, lay out all the panels and check how they correspond to the declared characteristics. Sometimes, unscrupulous sellers place defective samples inside the package in order to avoid losses due to rejection. Of course, it is advisable to pay attention to this even during the shopping process in the store.

The next step, if you plan to work with wood clapboard, is to dry it. PVC and MDF panels do not need this manipulation. So that the wooden lining mounted on the ceiling does not deform, it must be carefully dried on a horizontal surface. The minimum drying time is 2 weeks, but longer intervals are allowed. If you do not want the wooden ceiling lining to lose its presentable appearance soon, drying cannot be neglected.

Preparation of tools and materials

To install the lining on the ceiling as quickly as possible, it is worth preparing in advance all the tools that you may need in the process:

a hammer drill with a drill, with a cross section of 6-7 mm (if you have to work with a concrete ceiling), or an impact drill;
screwdriver;
electric jigsaw or hacksaw (tools are suitable for any type of lining);
level;
roulette.

In order to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, it will be necessary to purchase a number of auxiliary materials.

Since the lining is attached to the frame, that is, the crate, it is necessary to select the type of material for it:

Wooden slats - they are best suited for fixing any type of lining, since it is easier and more convenient to work with them, and their cost is much lower than metal profiles.
Metal lathing made of steel profiles. It is usually used for fixing drywall sheets.

It is worth noting that for work in rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to choose a steel version of the lathing and PVC lining, since they do not deform under the influence of moisture, unlike wood.

For a wooden frame you will need:

rail 4 × 4 cm based on surface area;
wooden or plastic wedges for the frame;
brackets;
self-tapping screws.

For a metal lathing, you need to purchase:

steel profiles;
fasteners;
suspension;
self-tapping screws;
anchors.

You can proceed to the installation of the lining on the ceiling after purchasing materials and thoroughly drying the wood.

Preliminary work with the ceiling

It is very important to prepare it correctly before making the ceiling from the lining. First, remove a layer of old plaster from the ceiling surface and clean the surface from dirt so that it is as even as possible.

Next, we proceed to marking the ceiling for the frame. In this case, it is worth deciding on the direction of the lining strips. In the process of further laying the lining on the ceiling, it is advisable to place it so that there are as few end joints as possible.

Since wooden elements are susceptible not only to moisture, but also mold, they must be coated with an antiseptic before installation.

In private houses, the ceiling should be pre-insulated. A layer of thermal insulation is laid between the profile posts, mounted with an indent of 50-60 cm. If we are talking about an apartment, then additional thermal insulation is not needed.

Next, we find a level for attaching the lathing. Having decided on the direction of the slats, we carry out the markings on the ceiling. Please note that the lining is fixed perpendicular to the battens of the sheathing. If desired, it can be placed at right angles to walls or diagonally.

Retaining brackets are fixed to the ceiling with equal intervals between them. Then wooden slats are laid on the brackets, leveling them using small wedges.

In order for the ceilings from the Euro-lining to be beautiful, the crate must be mounted very carefully and perfectly evenly.

The maximum step between the fasteners is 50 cm. If you use Euro lining, then the step must be halved.

The final appearance and durability of the ceiling depends on how carefully you treat the preliminary preparation of the ceiling.

Fastening the lining

Mounting the lining on the ceiling with your own hands is not something too difficult, even inexperienced performers can do it. True, it is advisable to work with the clapboard together to make it easier to fix panels of great length.

We begin to fix the lining to the ceiling with our own hands perpendicular to the lathing from the wall. The first board is firmly fixed with a spike to the wall. Using a level, adjust the position of the board, and then fix it. For laying the lining, you can use both small nails and clamps. In those rooms where the design of the lining ceiling should be ideal, clamps are used, and in the rest of the rooms, ordinary carnations are also suitable.

Then we take the next board and insert it with a thorn into the groove of the previous one. At the points of contact between the panel and the crate, we firmly fix the board. We fix all other panels of the lining on the battens in the same way.

At the opposite wall, the last lining of the lining may need to be trimmed. In this regard, it is advisable to place it in a place where it will be least noticeable. When working with plastic panels, it is better to use a hand hacksaw, and it is easier to cut wooden lining and MDF panels with a jigsaw.

It is better to make any holes for wiring or mounting lighting fixtures directly at the time of fixing the lining, so as not to spoil it.

If, in order to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard with your own hands, you use nails, then you must first cut off their caps. At the end of the work, the holes from the nails are opened with wax.

The final stage of arranging the ceiling from the lining will be the fastening of the baseboards around the perimeter of the room. These decorative elements will complement the ceiling and hide the cracks around the edges. Usually, the wooden lining is opened with varnish, and the baseboards - with a darker stain and varnish. If desired, such a ceiling can be painted.

Here are some helpful tips that you might find useful:

Before sheathing the ceiling with eurolining, it is advisable to check how good the electrical wiring and other communications running under the ceiling are in good condition. If in the future it is necessary to dismantle the lining for repairs, it can be damaged.
The lining of the ceiling in the places of contact with electric wires must be insulated to prevent fire.
When working with wood panels, it is advisable to use fasteners that will not rust. For PVC panels, the type of fastening is not critical.
Ceiling cladding should be done in a dry room at a temperature of at least 10 ℃.

The cost of the ceiling from the lining

The total cost of repairing the ceiling will largely depend on the price of materials. In turn, the price of lining varies depending on the type and type of wood, the length of the board, as well as the production technology.

Depending on these factors, the lining is divided by price into several categories:

The most expensive is the lining made of soft hardwood. Their processing is carried out in accordance with European standards.
Solid hardwood lining falls into the middle price category.
Coniferous lining is the cheapest.

In addition, if you want to equip a two-level ceiling from lining, you may have to invite a specialist, for whose services you also need to pay.

How to maintain your ceiling

If we are talking about lining made of wood, it is subject to mandatory treatment with antiseptic impregnations and primers, which slow down the destruction of wood, prevent the development of fungus and decay. When choosing a specific product, pay attention to its color, which should match the desired result.

Alternatively, wood panels can be coated with a special oil, varnish or paint of your choice. The processing option depends only on the wishes of the owner.

In order for the ceiling to retain its presentable appearance longer, it is advisable to periodically dust it off. If just a damp cloth is not enough for cleaning, you can use special household products, which are sold in large quantities in supermarkets.

Clapboard ceiling decoration is at the same time a beautiful, practical and functional solution for any room. Consider the advantages and disadvantages, the secrets of choice and the step-by-step technology of assembling wooden lining with your own hands.

The content of the article:

The modern range of ceiling cladding materials is very extensive and varied. Along with plastic panels and gypsum plasterboards, a profiled board made of natural wood can be safely attributed to the most relevant cladding options. It is not difficult to explain the popularity of clapboard ceiling decoration: it is absolutely environmentally friendly, beautiful and simple in terms of installation and subsequent maintenance.

Advantages and disadvantages of finishing the ceiling with clapboard

Ceiling cladding with natural wood panels is rightfully considered a classic of the building genre. In comparison with competitive finishing materials, lining has many undeniable advantages:

Excellent performance... The wood finish is strong, reliable and durable. With competent pre-assembly preparation and correct subsequent care, it will last at least 12-15 years.
Ecological cleanliness... Unlike synthetic "congeners", cladding made of natural lining is not only harmless, but also useful for the inhabitants of the dwelling. Due to its hygroscopic properties, wood is able to purify the air and normalize the level of humidity in the room.
Ease of installation... A distinctive feature of the finishing profiled board is the presence of special grooves and ridges. Thanks to these structural elements, ceiling cladding is easy and quick, even without the need for help.
Practicality and functionality... Plating the ceiling base with clapboard allows you to disguise minor flaws and flaws made during construction or repairs. In addition, behind the covering of decorative panels, you can hide electrical wiring, pipes, ventilation ducts, sound or heat insulation layer.
Aesthetic appearance... The ceiling made of wooden lining looks solid, stylish and impressive and, importantly, it is compatible with almost any room design.
Saving your construction budget... Using a natural board for lining the ceiling, you can save a lot on the purchase of starting and finishing materials - plaster, putty, paint, wallpaper, etc.

The disadvantages of this finish include the following:

Competent lining of the ceiling with clapboard implies the obligatory construction of a frame lathing. Structures of this type noticeably "steal" the height of the dwelling.
The next disadvantage of wood sheathing is the low level of fire safety. To protect the material from the destructive and dangerous effects of fire, it is carefully treated with protective flame retardants before installation work.
It should be borne in mind that natural lining, appreciated for its strength and durability, can slightly change the geometric parameters and deform due to incorrect operation or careless maintenance.

Criteria for choosing lining for ceiling decoration

Sheathing wooden board is presented on the construction market in a huge range. To determine the choice of this material, you should have a clear idea of its varieties and properties. The main criteria by which modern wall paneling is distinguished are the type of wood used, its grade and cross-sectional profile.

Species of wood when choosing lining for the ceiling

Traditionally, coniferous or deciduous wood is used for the manufacture of lining:

Coniferous wood... This category includes pine, spruce, fir, larch and cedar. Products from the listed raw materials are practical, durable and resistant to moisture and fungi, so they can be used for finishing ceilings both in residential and in utility rooms and in utility rooms. The only thing is that such a lining is not recommended for the inner lining of saunas and baths, since with a sharp increase in temperature, aromatic coniferous wood releases an abundant amount of resinous substances that can provoke spontaneous combustion of the material.
Hardwood... This category includes oak, beech, ash, aspen, alder and linden. Such wood lends itself well to mechanical processing, toning and artificial aging techniques. Due to its high decorative effect, it is suitable for cladding ceilings in premises for various purposes - from terraces and balconies to bedrooms and children's rooms. A distinctive property of deciduous material is resistance to temperature fluctuations and dampness. That is why ceilings of this type of lining are often equipped in rooms with high and variable humidity.

Classes of lining for ceiling decoration

A separate topic is the assortment of lining. Depending on the quality of the original wood, all molded sawn timber is divided into several classes:

Class "A"... Lumber marked with such a marking is characterized by the presence of small single knots and small blind cracks. It is worth noting that, according to the established standards, the listed flaws are allowed only in invisible zones and areas (reverse side and end part of the board).

Class "B"... The lining belonging to this class has noticeable roughness and unevenness, shallow longitudinal grooves and resin sacs. On the front surface of such products, you can find traces of mechanical stress - chips, scratches, notches and burrs.

Class "C"... Lumber of the last class includes edged boards with noticeable mechanical damage and pronounced wood defects - extensive knots, short through cracks, stains of a contrasting shade and opened resin pockets.

Note! For the finishing lining of ceilings in residential premises, experts recommend using the lining of the first two classes. As for the materials marked "B" and "C", it is better to use them to create an intermediate frame or rough filing.

The profile of the tree when choosing lining for finishing the ceiling

Depending on the type of profile connection, all wooden lining, intended for finishing ceilings and other surfaces in residential premises, is divided into ordinary and "euro". The first is cheaper than the second, but at the same time it is significantly inferior to it in terms of configuration and processing quality:

The lining of the European model differs from the traditional one in the correct geometry, as well as in a more complex and deep groove-ridge connection, which prevents the formation of gaps between adjacent boards even with significant temperature and humidity movements.
An important difference between European and classic clapboard is in terms of humidity. During the production process, the first one undergoes mandatory drying in automated chambers, due to which the wood acquires the necessary strength and plasticity.
The next argument in favor of Euro-lining is the presence of special ventilation ducts that act as air ducts and are responsible for the full outflow of accumulating condensate.

Do-it-yourself technology for mounting lining on the ceiling

Sheathing the ceiling with a wooden board is a task that can be done by any interested craftsman. Thanks to convenient locking joints, the assembly of the cladding sheet is quick and extremely simple. Let's take a closer look at how to fix the lining to the ceiling so that the finish is beautiful and durable.

Preparatory work before finishing the ceiling with clapboard

At the first stage of work, a number of certain preparatory measures should be performed:

To begin with, remove the old cladding and finishing materials from the base ceiling. The surface is thoroughly cleaned from dirt and dust. Small cracks found in the floor slab are sealed with a putty mixture, deep cracks are embroidered with a grinder and concreted with cement-sand mortar.
To prevent biodegradation of the wood finish, the prepared base must be covered with a deep penetration antiseptic compound. Ceiling priming is performed in two stages using a fleecy roller equipped with a telescopic bar. The recommended time interval between the first and second application of the protective emulsion is 2-3 hours.
At the same stage of work, the lining purchased for finishing the ceiling is freed from the packaging wrapper, sorted and laid out in one layer on a flat horizontal surface in the room to be installed. This simple procedure will help prevent cracking, warping and shrinkage of the purchased material.

Marking the surface for mounting the lining on the ceiling

At this stage of work, it is necessary to prepare for the subsequent arrangement of the frame system and correctly mark the ceiling surface. The main purpose of the markup is to define a horizontal line that denotes the plane of the location of the wood trim, and to draw parallel lines on all walls around the perimeter of the room.

It is most convenient to mark the ceiling with a laser tool, however, as an alternative, it is permissible to use a regular building level. With the help of the latter, they determine the lowest point of the base base and, starting from it, make marks on the walls around the perimeter of the room.

To apply a closed contour, use a marker or a dyeing paint cord. It is important that the laid line converges at a single point, and any displacements indicate errors in the marking process.

The height of the interceiling space should not only mask the unevenness and inaccuracies of the floor slab, but also allow free laying of all communications, insulation materials and built-in lighting devices. As a rule, when finishing with clapboard, the ceiling is lowered by no more than 7-10 cm.

Arrangement of a frame for a ceiling made of lining

At the end of the marking work, the construction of the supporting frame is started. For the manufacture of the lathing, a metal profile or planed beams with a section of 50x50 mm are used. Immediately, you can use the substandard lining found during sorting. The main thing to remember is that all wooden elements of the frame structure are subject to mandatory antiseptic treatment.

Let's take a closer look at the rules for arranging a frame for a ceiling made of lining:

The crate is installed, according to the markings, in a direction perpendicular to the position of the future facing sheet. With the longitudinal fastening of the lining, the frame slats are fixed across the room, with the transverse fastening of the wooden sheathing, the frame is mounted along the room.
The prepared elements of the supporting structure are fixed in the next order: first, the edging strips are attached, then the intermediate ones. Dowels and screws are used to fix the details of the crate.
The optimal distance between adjacent rows of the frame system is 30-40 cm. To avoid the possibility of sagging of the facing sheet, the structure is additionally reinforced with transverse bridges or hangers.
During construction, the crate is periodically checked for flatness. If necessary, all errors are corrected with the help of placed bars or pegs of the appropriate size.

Note! Before installing the lining, all cables, wiring, foundations of built-in lamps, as well as heat and sound insulating materials are carefully laid in the under-ceiling space.

Fastening the lining to the ceiling

Next, they proceed to the direct cladding of the frame structure. To quickly and reliably form a ceiling from the lining with your own hands, the panels are fastened using secret metal clamps. Such fixing elements are both invisible and reliable: on the one hand, they are attached to the wrong side of the finishing board, on the other, to the crate.

Installation of wooden panels begins from one of the corners of the room, while technological gaps (up to 10 mm) must be left between the walls and the extreme strips for possible thermal expansion of the material and unhindered ventilation in the ceiling recess.
The first plank is attached on both sides to the frame beams using a furniture stapler. The second board is inserted at a slight angle into the grooves of the first, inserted until it stops and fixed in the places where the lathing runs with the help of cleats.
Fastening of subsequent panels is carried out in the same way as the first two. For reliability, each installed bar is gently tapped along the entire length with a mallet.
In the course of a set of a wooden ceiling, through holes of the desired configuration are cut out in the necessary places for the output of the supply wires. To trim the lining, use an electric jigsaw or a hand saw.
At the end of the cladding work, all gaps between the wooden sheathing and the walls are sealed with additional elements of a suitable size. Decorative clips or small furniture nails are used as fasteners.
If desired, the clapboard finish is coated with protective compounds based on natural oils or beeswax. Such impregnations enhance the natural beauty of wood, give it a soft matte color and protect it from mold and wood-boring beetles.

Before starting the installation work, you should de-energize the room to be tiled by turning off the circuit breakers in the switchboard.

How to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard - look at the video:

Having studied the step-by-step technology of mounting the lining on the ceiling and having correctly organized the finishing process, even a novice master will be able to turn a scattering of wooden planks into a beautiful and reliable facing canvas.

For several years, lining has been used for finishing the ceiling surface. Various methods of panel laying will transform the room and create a unique original interior. At the same time, the ceiling from the lining is easy to make on your own, if you select high-quality materials and follow the correct sequence throughout the work.

How to make a ceiling from a lining with your own hands

Selection of materials and tools

The decorative ceiling consists of a frame base and cladding material. For the installation of the frame, a timber or metal profile is used. The base is attached to the walls around the perimeter of the room and to the base surface.

Photo of the frame for fixing the lining

If the lining on the ceiling will be installed to a wooden frame, choose a beam with a thickness of 20x40, 40x40 or 50x50 mm. To make the frame even, use wooden or plastic wedges, and the suspensions to the rough ceiling are mounted on anchor bolts, the bars are fixed to them on self-tapping screws. The lining is attached to the staples of a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with press washers or special clips, which are used mainly for mounting plastic panels.

If you intend to build a metal frame, you need to purchase:

galvanized steel profiles;
suspensions;
anchor bolts and self-tapping screws for metal;
connectors.

In addition to materials, the following set of tools will be required for work:

hammer;
puncher;
screwdriver;
water level;
tape measure, marker or pencil;
metal shears for cutting metal profiles.

For the manufacture of decorative lining, metal, natural wood, plastic, aluminum or MDF are used. Wood and MDF panels will support the interior of a wooden house, plastic lining is suitable for finishing a bathroom or kitchen, and slatted structures will help create a modern interior. Based on the functionality of the room, choose the appropriate type of cladding panels.

In order for the ceiling to turn out beautiful and stable, you need to properly prepare. The cladding will cover the base base, but you still have to remove the old finish from the floor.

If there are cracks or other problem areas, they are sealed with a composition of sand and cement, or filled with a special putty. At the final stage of preparation, the surface of the ceiling is covered with an antifungal primer, which will provide reliable protection against mold.

In private houses, floor insulation is additionally organized. For this, different materials are used, which are glued to the base or placed in the cells of a pre-assembled frame, and covered with cladding panels from above.

Frame installation

Markup

Regardless of what material it is planned to build a decorative ceiling from, the structure must be flat. This will require high-quality markup.

First, the level of the future ceiling is determined. A flat horizontal line is applied to the walls using an upholstery cord. The ceiling height depends on two factors:

room height;
whether lighting devices are supposed to be built into the structure, and what their dimensions will be.

Depending on the height of the luminaire, they additionally retreat downward from the ceiling: for diodes - by 4 cm, for chandeliers or spotlights - by 7 cm or more.

If after a while the lining "goes in waves", it means that the installation is installed incorrectly. The step of fixing the ceiling profiles depends on what material is used for lining the ceiling from the lining: wood or plastic panels, MDF boards.

Parallel lines are drawn under the profiles on the base surface. The first and last - 30 cm from the wall, the rest - every 60 cm (for plastic) and after 100 cm (for wood or MDF).

If wooden beams are chosen as the basis for the frame, installation is carried out as follows:

first, the tree is covered with a layer of protective impregnation;
the beams are fixed perpendicular to the decorative panels;
if the ceiling is supposed to be additionally insulated, then regardless of the type of cladding, the distance between adjacent ceiling beams is reduced to 60 cm;
two beams are mounted on opposite sides of the room with indents of 30 cm from the walls, the plane is verified with a level;
the rest of the bars are fastened along the outlined lines. If the thickness of the bars is different, to ensure an even horizontal, wooden dies are placed under them;
the timber is fixed to the ceiling on driven dowels, anchors or screws;
then the fishing line is pulled, the remaining frame elements are installed.

To make the base reliable, you can lay transverse beams, which will enhance the rigidity of the structure. Or carry out additional reinforcement in the places where ceiling lamps are installed. When the frame is ready, electrical wires are connected to the points of location of the devices.

The metal frame is built according to the same rules as when plastering the ceiling with plasterboard:

a guide profile is attached to the horizontal line along the perimeter on dowels and self-tapping screws;
on opposite sides, 30 cm from the walls, ceiling profiles are fixed to the ceiling using adjustable U-shaped hangers. Suspension attachment step - 60 cm;
a nylon thread is pulled under the frame, along which the remaining elements are mounted. If differences are obtained, the height is adjusted with suspensions;
additionally reinforce the frame with jumpers mounted using crab crosspieces;
lead the cable under the lamps.

Clapboard sheathing

Lining for a ceiling made of solid wood or MDF is attached to the frame in the same way:

first, a strip of lining is cut to the required length so that 5 mm of free space remains from the panel to each wall. Then, when the material expands under the influence of unfavorable factors, the ceiling does not deform. If the walls are uneven, it is better to cut the panels as you clad the frame;
the first strip along the length is attached to the guide profile, leaving a gap of 3-5 mm on the side. The next panel is wound with a groove at a slight slope into the lock of the previous one, and pushed into it. To firmly press the lining, tap on the end of the part with a hammer with a rubberized tip. The other side of the plank is screwed to the profile at the bottom of the lock with self-tapping screws (if the frame is made of a metal profile) or nailed (for a base made of wooden beams);
when using self-tapping screws, even before installing the lining on the locking part of the strip, holes are pre-drilled for fasteners. If this is done under a ceiling, the cladding can chip off. When using nails, they additionally use doboe so as not to damage the front side of the cladding material;
as the cladding progresses, they lead out the cable under the devices, drilling holes in the panels. Thus, they advance to the opposite wall. The last strip is driven into the lock using small wedges driven between the panel and the wall surface.

Often the outermost plank has to be cut in width. An incision on MDF panels or plastic lining is made along the entire length on both sides, then the part is gently broken. For cutting solid wood lining, use a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw.

The lining made of plastic is mounted in the same way as from solid wood, leaving gaps from the wall of 3-5 mm. But first, a U-shaped groove is attached around the perimeter, which will hide the ends of the strips of material.

This groove either forms part of the skirting board, or is represented by a collapsible structure of parts in the shape of the letter "L". The first part is fixed after installing the frame, and the second, when the ceiling is completely sheathed with plastic.

Since the evenness of the structure has already been set at the installation stage, during the sheathing, you should try to push the panels as tightly into the groove as possible in order to eliminate the formation of gaps.

How to fix false beams to the lining ceiling

Photo of a ceiling from a lining with beams

The use of false beams in the interior is a common type of decoration that is used by designers to highlight different styles and trends. Beams are made of solid wood, plastic, polyurethane, etc. When choosing a suitable product, it is necessary to take into account the reliability of the supporting structure to which the elements will be attached. So, natural wood products are heavy, therefore, in the places where the beams are attached, the frame will have to be additionally strengthened.

It is better to choose polyurethane beams, hollow inside, painted like natural wood. They weigh lighter and will look just as good as natural wood. At the same time, they go well with the lining ceiling.

In general, the beams are not difficult to attach. The main thing is to follow the sequence in work:

the side and bottom elements must fit tightly together. To do this, use a plane, with which the end parts of the beams are adjusted. Places of cuts are rubbed with fine-grained emery paper;
special wedges for beams are made of wood. In this case, the wedge must exactly repeat the shape of the beam cavity (trapezoid);
during marking, additional control lines are drawn on the side of the beam to provide a guide to the wedges;
wedges are installed in the places of the intended location of the beams, screwed onto dowels and screws with a step of 1 m;
in the places where the beams are attached to the walls, a little glue is applied to the surface of the base. This will not only provide additional reliability, but also a tight fit of the product, as a result of which it will be possible to exclude the formation of cracks;
a false beam is put on a wedge, screwed with self-tapping screws, the heads of the self-tapping screws are closed with decorative overlays or brackets;
if the beam is short, it is joined to the next, the joint is also masked with a decorative element.

If desired, you can install original lighting in the beams. For this, the wiring of the electric cable is made in the cavity of the beam, using a protective sheath, having previously made holes in the cavity of the wedge-beams. For polyurethane products, the power of the devices is chosen no more than 50 W.

The final stage

Do-it-yourself installation of the lining on the ceiling does not end only with cladding. Additionally, the gaps between the ceiling surface and the walls are decorated with a plinth around the perimeter, which is attached to liquid nails, clips or self-tapping screws, if the fillet is made of wood.

When you need to give the decorative ceiling a different shade, the lining is covered with varnish or stain of the desired color. But it is better to do this before attaching the cladding to the frame base.

Lining in a modern interior style is in demand, since the trend for natural (wood, MDF) and economical (plastic) materials is gaining momentum.

For the manufacture of wooden lining, different tree species are used:

Pine. Distinctive feature - soft brown shades;
spruce is inexpensive. But at the final stage, it is better to paint the sheathed ceilings with varnish in order to express the surface structure;
larch is a durable, beautiful material that can withstand moisture.

The white color of the surfaces is combined with different trends in the interior. For coloring, choose oil or acrylic compositions.

Combinations of diagonal stripes of Euro lining will make the room sophisticated. Other decorative elements will add variety. For example, moldings or illuminated beams.

Even a plastic lining with a suitable texture and pattern will look unusual and original. Combining the shades of the panels, it will be possible to divide the space into zones.

Designers have come up with many techniques with which a room will acquire an individual character:

narrow and long lining strips will visually expand the spatial boundaries of the room;
strict lines will suit any style;
if you lay the panels in the form of a lattice, you will be able to reproduce the imitation of beams;
plastic lining looks great when panels of different widths are used for lining the ceiling;
a white tint of the ceiling in tandem with a golden or silver color will add luxury to the room;
a rack ceiling will look good in the direction of minimalism or high-tech. The surface looks no less original, where clapboard sheathing is combined with painting.

Clapboard ceilings are finished not only in country houses, but also in city apartments. The main condition is that in order to obtain a unified interior, you need to maintain one style, and choose materials that will be combined with each other.

Video how to fill the lining on the ceiling, drawing squares

Incredibly, it is easy to hem the ceiling with clapboard yourself! Just a few efforts, a little time spent, a little knowledge and you're done. Indeed, it is not difficult to carry out the installation of finishing materials. It is enough to have a good helper next to you, because you cannot install it on your own.

In rooms, as a rule, ceilings are not sheathed. But the kitchen, bathroom, veranda are just those premises where it will be most appropriate.

Having identified the premises, let's talk about the materials and tools that we will need.

Tools and materials

To sheathe the ceiling from the lining with your own hands, you need a frame.

For cladding ceilings with your own hands, you do not need to buy expensive tools, because any craftsman will surely find such a tool. We will need:

screwdriver;
roulette;
small teeth hacksaw or jigsaw;
level;
hammer drill or drill;
hammer.

By the way, the tool can be rented in hardware stores.

The lathing can be either metal or wooden.

Wooden lathing for the house it is most preferable, since panels are easier to attach to it, and it wins in price compared to a metal profile.

Metal crate more commonly used for drywall.

When lining the ceiling with clapboard in the bathroom, it will also be preferable to install a metal frame. This is due to the fact that metal deformation does not occur in a humid room.

To install a frame made of wooden blocks, you need:

wooden beam 40 * 40 mm;
brackets that are fasteners;
wedges, wood or plastic, used to install the frame;
self-tapping screws for fastening.

To install a metal frame, we will need:

steel metal profile;
connecting elements;
profile suspension;
anchors and screws for metal.

Choosing a material

Now select the panels themselves. They are divided into several types:

metal,
plastic,
wooden,

They have the same fastening principle. Before buying, you need to decide what kind of room we will sheathe.

For wet rooms, a bathroom, for example, plastic is more suitable. But for the kitchen and veranda, the best option would be wooden, given its environmental friendliness and naturalness.

There are many materials for cladding, and they all differ from each other.

Wooden have four categories, differing from each other by the presence of dark spots and knots on their surface.

The fewer spots and knots, the more expensive the material.

As for the choice of the breed from which the panel boards are made, it is better to choose pine, linden or cedar.

Plastic good for damp rooms, but direct sunlight will cause “fading”.

They bend easily, hide the unevenness of the ceiling coverings well, but cracks from constant stress can appear on them.

But the cracks can no longer be repaired.

MDF panels should only be used in dry rooms. Moisture can cause material damage, deformation and collapse.

After purchase, you should not immediately cover the ceiling with them. The panels must lie down so that their temperature is equal to the temperature of the room where they will be installed.

Preparing for sheathing.

Diagonal cladding

Before strengthening the frame, you need to prepare the ceiling covering. Cracks and holes in need to be patched... Decaying plaster is also removed.

It is imperative to treat the surface with a special solution from the fungus that can form under the sheathing.

If necessary, we insulate it with penofol or izolon - this is an insulating material based on foil.

Having processed the ceiling covering, we turn to the frame.

We mount the battens.

Installation from wooden beams:

To begin with, we determine the level at which the crate is mounted.

Then we mark the direction of the bars. The panel must be attached strictly perpendicular to the direction of the timber. It can be fixed vertically, horizontally and diagonally.

Now brackets are attached at the same distance from each other. A timber bar is attached to the brackets. To level the level of the lathing, use wooden wedges.

The lathing is installed very evenly, the lining will be stuffed on it. Otherwise, the coating will turn out to be wavy, ugly.

Wooden frame, must be treated with an antifungal agent. This will extend the life of the ceiling.

Mounting from a metal profile:

On the walls, along their perimeter, fix the metal profile... We fix the suspensions.

The main profiles of the frame sheathing are attached to the suspension itself and the starting profile.

Remember to adjust the level before securing the batten.

After installing the lathing, we proceed to the filing of the ceiling covering.

Video - how to sheathe the ceiling with your own hands:

Sheathing with nails and clamps

Now let's talk about how to attach the lining to the ceiling. This is done as follows:

boards are nailed to the crate strictly perpendicularly, directing the panels to the wall with a spike;
installed using a level, attaching it with self-tapping screws;
the second panel is inserted in such a way that its spike coincides with the groove of the first one and is attached in the same way as the first, applying a level.
we sew to the end;
holes are made in plastic panels with a drill before sheathing, thereby avoiding surface damage during installation.

The finished coating is decorated with wooden skirting boards around the perimeter, which well hide the cracks of the trimmed lining.

To make the lining ceiling look beautiful, you can paint it. And it is better to varnish, and the sheathing, for example, a contour of skirting boards, go through a stain of a darker color in relation to the main one, and then varnish.

Now you can admire the finished beautiful handmade ceiling.

Video - installation of plastic panels:

Price in rubles

A real professional job.

The cost of panels depends on the type of wood, its species, the quality of drying of the material, the equipment on which the panels are made, and their length.

The panels are divided according to three price parameters: high, medium and low.

High- high quality material, made from soft deciduous wood species. They are processed according to the European standard. Their price is not less than 310 rubles. per square meter.

Average- hard deciduous trees, their price ranges from 215 to 310 rubles. per square meter.

Low- conifers. Their price ranges from 100 to 215 rubles. per square meter.

When calculating the cost of cladding work, we calculate the area of the surface to be coated. Installation of cladding is estimated in the range from 150 to 350 rubles. per square meter. It depends on the complexity of the job and the master doing the job.

Knowing how to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard using the above information, you can do it yourself. And if you need to hire a master, then you yourself can calculate the cost of his work. Good luck!

When working on the interior decoration of the premises, various materials are used. But, despite modern technologies and developments, the lining is in great demand in the building materials market. Today lining is the leader in the field of ceiling coverings. Therefore, in this article we will consider the question of how the ceiling clapboard is cladding on a balcony or any other room.

The advantages of lining include ease of installation, a beautiful look of natural wood, a relatively inexpensive price.

Materials and tools for fixing the lining

From the tools you should take:

screwdriver or impact drill;
nails / dowels / screws / screws / clamps;
hammer;
centimeter / tape measure;
building level;
hacksaw for metal;
table and stepladder.

The main elements of the installation are the lining board and the frame. The frame for the ceiling sheathing is of two types - wood and metal.

When installing with a wooden frame (crate), you will need:

suspensions for fixing the frame to the ceiling;
wooden beams 40x40 mm in size, from which the frame is assembled;
self-tapping screws.

The beams for the timber frame must be perfectly flat and intact.

If you choose a metal frame, you will need a metal profile made of galvanized steel, suspensions, metal screws.

The lining material for the ceiling is varied - it can be wood, fiberboard, polyvinyl chloride or MDF. Lining made of wood (pine, linden) is in great demand.

For bathrooms with high humidity and kitchen areas, you should opt for a metal frame and plastic lining. A wooden lining is also suitable for a kitchen, but it is better to fasten it to the base of a metal crate.

Unlike a wooden frame, galvanized metal profiles do not deform from humid air.

Natural wooden lining panels are ideal for ceiling cladding baths, despite the high degree of humidity in the room.

Preparatory work

How to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, where to start? Before starting work on fastening, it is necessary to prepare the ceiling - remove the chandelier and small lamps. Also inspect the ceiling surface for damaged plaster or whitewash and cracks.

After removing the defects, the ceiling surface should be treated with a mildew remover. If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated with a layer of heat-insulating material.

Installation

Step 1: Installing the frame

Fastening the lining to the ceiling surface begins with the installation of the frame. Without lathing, clapboarding will not only not hide the flaws in the ceiling surface, but also accentuate them.

Before installing the lathing, the first thing to do is markup. It is worth paying attention to the direction in which the lining will be laid. The profiles of the metal frame or the slats of the wooden lathing should lie across (i.e. perpendicular to the direction of the lining), with the longitudinal direction of the lining - vice versa.

The lathing should be installed as straight as possible, otherwise the lining may be skewed. Wooden lathing has less durability than a frame made of metal profiles. But the wooden frame is more suitable for lining the ceiling with clapboard made of wood.

Installation of a wooden frame for lining consists of several stages:

If there is no need to lower the ceiling level, then the wooden beams are attached directly to the ceiling surface.
To level the frame, use wedges made of wood or plastic.
Brackets are first installed on the ceiling and beams are already attached to them.

If the ceiling is sheathed with plastic lining panels, then the craftsmen recommend maintaining a distance of 40-60 cm between the wooden beams.For solid wood paneling panels, the distance between the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm, respectively.

Installation of a metal crate consists of the following steps:

Take measurements of the height of the room / room in all corners, thereby determining the lowest point.
Measure a line 5-10 cm from the selected point - level.
Along the entire perimeter of the walls, taking into account the set level, an initial metal profile is attached. Dowels can be used as fasteners.
It is necessary to attach profile hangers to the ceiling surface. Suspension plates are bent downward.
Metal base profiles are attached to hangers and starter profiles.
Before final fastening, you should check the level of location of all frame profiles.

The choice of lathing depends on preferences and financial capabilities. Metal profiles are durable, but also at a higher price compared to a wooden frame.

Step 2: Laying communications (wiring)

Before fixing the lining, you should check the performance of the wiring being laid, its reliability and insulation strength.

Step 3: Clapboard sheathing

In the course of work, the material from which the lining is made is not significant. Since the workflow for each type of lining is the same. The strips (panels) of the lining are cut to a length equal to the length of the ceiling (minus 0.5 cm). If the walls are not perfectly flat, then the panels are placed close to the wall. The strip must be laid perpendicular to the frame guides and with a groove towards the corner.

Then the first strip is attached on both sides along the entire length. It is necessary to retreat from the wall at a distance of 5 mm.

The finishing strips of the lining should be tightly inserted at a certain angle into the groove (lock) of the previous panel. To achieve a tighter fit, use a small rubber mallet: gently tap on the end faces of the panels.

The second side of the panel should be screwed / nailed to the lathing guides at the bottom of the lock.

In the course of laying the lining, you need to decide on the wiring - make the appropriate outlet holes. Otherwise, after the end of the work, it is problematic to remove the electrical wiring and you can deform the material.

The process of fixing the panels to the ceiling continues to the opposite side of the room. The very last panel should be driven into the groove, additionally using small wedges. These wedges are driven between the lining panel and the wall.

Most likely, the last strip will need to be adjusted in length. In the case of using a wooden lining, the strip is cut with a hacksaw. If the panel is made of plastic, make one even cut on both sides of the panel and gently break it.

Of the common methods of fixing lining strips to the ceiling, experts distinguish 2 main methods:

fixation with clamps. The use of a special construction bracket (kleimer), which is "put on" on the groove of the paneling panel and attached to the frame. The use of such brackets completely eliminates damage to the lining material. Fastening with cleats is suitable for plastic lining.
fixation in an open way. This method is used in the case of ceiling cladding with heavy lining panels. With an open method, at least minimal dexterity and accuracy is required.
fixation with self-tapping screws. This method is used, like clamps, when sheathing the lining with plastic panels.

Self-tapping screws or small nails with small caps (or without caps) are used as fasteners in this method. Nails should be carefully driven vertically into the grooves of the panels so as not to distort the appearance of the coating. But if, after fastening, the lining strips are treated with a dark-colored varnish, then you can not hide the nail heads, but hammer in the center of the panel.

When fastening with nails, hammer blows should not be applied directly to the head of the nail. In this case, you can use a special extension for the nail (doboinik).

In the process of fixing the lining, it is necessary to avoid the formation of gaps and gaps between the panels. Otherwise, the appearance of the ceiling will be significantly affected.

Step 4: Install skirting boards

At the end of the installation work, a decorative plinth (or corners) is installed around the perimeter of the updated ceiling. The plinth will hide the gaps between the ceiling and the wall, the ends of the trimmed strips of the lining and will give a finished look to the ceiling surface.

Conclusion

The process of fixing the lining to the ceiling itself is not laborious. A person with no experience in repair and finishing work, or with a minimum of repair skills, can easily cope with it.

It is best to engage in fixing the lining to the surface of the ceiling, not alone, but with an assistant. So you can significantly reduce the time, make the fastening better and smoother. In addition, it is very difficult and inconvenient to hold the lining panel on your own.

As a result, clapboard ceiling decoration looks presentable, such a ceiling will delight for a long time with its ideal look, texture and color.