Remove exhaust rivets from the door lock. How to put a rivet for metal. How to use a rivet: types of rivet riveting tools. Rivets on clothes

Rivets are one of the most primitive types of fasteners. They are used in order to connect sheet steel and tin, as well as plastic and even skin. Compounds that are obtained by rivets in the dyes strong and rivet removal is an extremely difficult task. In fact, in order to remove rivet You need to cut down her head, in the disgusting case nothing will happen. And then it will not work as closely to apply this rivet. It will be allowed only to throw out.

You will need

• fire, chisel, pliers

Instruction

1. The difficulty in removing the rivets is also in the fact that it is necessary to be extremely careful and neat, in order not to damage the surface with which you remove it. Rivets are made of various materials with various properties and different strengths. Decide, select the removal method primarily depending on the material.

2. Rather, every time you will need a lot of time for work, follow patience and the necessary tools. From the tools, prepare a file, chisel, pliers, permissible, even drill with a thin drill. In short, get actually every choice of tools, since any of these tools you may need.

3. If you shoot a rivet from a metal or similar surface, to start use the file. It will be permissible if your rivet head itself is above the surface that it connects. If the file did not give the expected results, use the chisel. But be careful, try as permanently scratched the surface and damage your fingers.

4. Because rivets are not only made of various materials, but also there are also various types, the approach to the removal of various types will also be different. So, if the head is not easy to easily over the surface, to connect which it serves, and has a secret head, in return for a file and chisel, use the drill.

5. The drill must be thin, but it must be strictly pick up in diameter. First, you will call a diligent head of rivet diligent head, and then pick up the rod or a similar tool, the main thing, in order to fit the diameter, and try to knock out the head.

6. Later, how you coped with the head, carefully pliers beat the cloves and stretch the rod rod. The edges of the holes that remain later rivets treat the appropriate material by the method.

7. In case the rivet needs to be removed from the leather product, everything will be more difficult if it is significant for you as permanently damaged the surface of the material. In this case, only pliers are suitable. Diligently squeeze the head in several places, and then try to break it.

8. If it turns out, diligently remove the rivet cloves and pull the rod. If the rivet is not amenable to pulling her head with a slightly up from the material, squeeze it with a file. And then proceed by the same scheme.

When you sewing and repairing clothes you may have the need to put rivest . The fastener in the form of a button-button-buttons from 2-piece (top and bottom) is comfortable to use and serves without wear enough long. However, if you have never come across this subject of sewing accessories, it is strictly cool prepare for its installation. To start the buttons to the cloth you need special tools, accuracy and accuracy. If you make a mistake, then it is allowed to spoil both the riveting itself, and clothes.

You will need

• - button;
• - blade or needker;
• - Special ticks for rivets (or pliers and hammer);
• - a piece of soft plastic;
• - scissors;
• - 2 pieces of rubber;
• - Highly professional press displacement (optional).

Instruction

1. Discover in the store of fabrics and sewing accessories, special pliers for clothing rivets. When buying them, check the package: you will need a nozzle, suitable for the diameter of your riveting, and the nippers themselves with the retainer. In order to put a riveting on clothes, you need to do the hole in advance. It should be smaller than the base of sewing fittings. Make a cross-shaped suction with a sharp razor blade or carefully pour the hole with a hot spoke.

2. Insert the front part of the button in the well-done hole above, and its outfit side is from below. You need to attach parts of the fasteners as pervertedly more diligently, so that they did not shift when they are broken.

3. Cut a quadrangular shape of soft plastic for better fixation of rivet parts. For this, a dense cover for books and school notebooks is suitable. Fold the resulting rectangle twice the book. Now it needs to do two holes - for the bottom and the wrong parts of the rivet. Fix the fittings in the "nests", put the canvas with the location marked for the fastener between this non-slip fixture.

4. Put the rubber slices on both parts of the button - say, cut out of the projected boots, or gaskets for sanitary equipment. When working with ticks, you need to make a strong effort, and you risk deforming the surface of the product.

5. Clamp a rivet with ticks and squeeze to the instrument handle stop - you must hear a classic click. It is allowed to take advantage of also with appliant means - ordinary pliers, or a hammer. In this case, rubber pads will become the necessary condition for successful work.

Helpful advice
If you can't get a ripping on your own, contact the studio, where there is a special press run for buttons, champs and other fittings. You can purchase such a device in the store. Act according to the instructions. In order to strengthen the clasp on clothes with his imagination, you will not need to make significant efforts.

The somewhat often when the printer does not enjoy a long time, he ceases to take the paper, blinks with all lamps and does not print at all. This means that it is time to change the print head. This is allowed to impose on the masters of the service center, and it is permitted to do and independently, in order not to pay extra money.

Instruction

1. Remove the paper tray. The lid take off without fail. Primitively open the latch, pressing it with your finger, and stretch the tray. Later, twisting screws, dismantle the false panels. Please note that under the screws there are also latches - a little click on them, and the plastic will come off. Grasp the edge of the sidewall and move the panel from yourself. In order to remove the false panel from the other side to perform the same actions.

2. Remove the USB frame. To do this, pull it up and forth. Under it there are screws that fix the housing. Remove both screws and dismantle the top of the housing. Then you will see the latches that you need to hold on and pull on the plastic. Later, it is allowed to remove the printer cover, pulling it up.

3. Unlock the carriage in order to dismantle the nodes. Discover inside the printer in the left corner a huge white gear. Cracily rotate it with your hands in order to unlock. Execute all operations by turning off the printer from the network in advance. Before turning on the printer, make sure the carriage is positively located - push it into the parking lot.

4. Disconnect all electrical loops and dismantle the safety plates that are located with the inner and outer side of the carriage. Remove also contact chip power supply. In order to do it, move the carriage to the right until it stops, putting the latch at the same time. Raise the block up and dismantle its right part.

5. Move the carriage to the left until it stops and correctly also remove the chip power supply on the left side. You will appear in front of you, which is attached by three bolts. Unscrew them, remove the loops from the connector, later you remove head .

6. Replace head And assemble the printer in the reverse order. If you make this operation first, then for the comfort and tape of the correct assembly, write down all your steps in order to repeat them in order to repeat and not leave the "extra" details.

Video on the topic

To date, the most reliable version of fastening connections is durable, and, having special tools in your hands, you can not think about the question, how to rivet rivets. Next, we will tell you exactly how similar fasteners are performed.

1

What is this fastener? Initially, historically, it is a metal rod, less often - plate. Always with a mortgage head on one side (a hat that limits the movement of the element in the hole) and closes on the other end.For the first time was used to make armor, such as lats and chain rails, as well as for connecting some elements of cold and early firearms. If the mortgage head is originally available, then the closing occurs due to the precipitation process (digging) or with the help of a special tool due to the deformation of the exhaust rod. It is logical that the sediment is applied to cast or stamped, all-metal elements, and the deformation of the rod is possible only when using hollow (tubular) exhaust rivets. There are also explosive and cut options.

A variety of rivets

So, we know that the fasteners under consideration are inconsectable, which ensures often high reliability. But the strength of the compound depends primarily on the material, so we first consider the varieties of rivets precisely on this characteristic. The most common - aluminum fasteners, in many industrial processes, as well as in a number of crafts, copper and brass rods are used. All these materials do not have a high degree of reliability and are suitable only where there are no large loads, for fastening decorative parts. Among other things, there are steel rivets, including from a stainless steel, they provide a sufficiently strong connection and are suitable even for assembling bearing structures and mechanical engineering.

It is very important when installing metal parts to use rivets from the same material as connected items.

2

Before using rivets, you need to know how to rivet about or other details. There are many ways to connect, but they are divided, as a rule, on 3 types. Durable fasteners are used exclusively where certain loads are present. Hermetic, as it is clear from the title, is needed to ensure tightness in the places of connecting sheets or any details. And finally, firmly sealed perform both functions. It should be noted that for the second type, that is, for sealed rivets, mortgage heads are made reinforced.

Exhaust rivets

The most common way to connect is the mustache, while it is applied not only to, but also to the details of a complex form. This option is also called alone. Under the influence of multidirectional loads, for example, with stretching, such seam can be easily deformed. The connection is more durable, using one or two (on both sides of the seam) of the lining, but this option, also called multi-precipitated, strongly dries the design and leads to more material consumption. Setting rivets when fasteners can be chain or chess, the second is more reliable, but very laborious.

Mortgage heads are of a variety of forms. The most commonly used is semicircular and counted. The first completely overlap the hole like a screw cap, and for the second channel is collapsed so that the head of an inverted cut cone is fully fit in the well. In the second case, the surface of the part remains smooth, because the riveting takes place, and the destruction of such rivets becomes difficult. Also there are semi-employed form factors (with a small rounded convexity), flat, flat-conical, conical and oval.

3

The most commonly used exhaust riveting elements are used, which are especially convenient if it is necessary to attach the part to the surface, the opposite side of which is not available. They are a rolling tube on one of the ends (analogue of a mortgage head), in the channel of which runs the rod with a hat on the even end of the riveting. From the collapsed side, most part of the rod is extended, with which the clutch of the tool is gripping, for subsequent stretching through the tube. Its smooth end is frozen a rod cap and forms a closing head.

Rivets for metal

However, it should be borne in mind that when connecting two parts, its channel is expanding, so the edges of the holes must be durable, non-exposed deformation. Therefore, for fastening the plates of a sufficiently soft material, whether plastic or aluminum, mortgage sleeves from steel or washers from both sides of the connecting parts should be applied. The same applies to the compounds that must be movable, hinged, they are also applicable in a complex with sleeve beds, and the length of them should exceed the total thickness of the fastened plates.

4

Unlike exhaust, ordinary cast or stamped riveting elements must be installed using the efforts defined to the short-circuit end. This can be pressing or targeted blows for flattening the end of the rod outlet. The second option is most reminiscent of the forging, especially since it is performed with a cold or hot way. If the thickness of the riveting does not exceed 1 centimeter, you can use the cold window of the closing head. If the diameter is more than 10 millimeters, then the fastening element is needed to facilitate the unloading of its end.

Tool for rivet

As a rule, before sprinkling a hot rivet, it is heated in mountain, after which they are installed in a hole and several strong blows make a flat closing cap. At the same time there should be an odor with a hole under the mortgage head. For a cold method, a special tool is applied - a cross-rounded mouse, with which a smooth hemisphere is formed by deformation of the end of the end of the removal. The attack with ordinary hammer gives the same result if you beat the end, directing the blows slightly casually, from the center to the edges, but such a head will be less neat.

5

As we have already spoken, the type of connection in question is indeplicated, however, if it is still necessary to disassemble the design, the details of which are brockets with each other, several different methods can be used. The most common, which is usually applied to exhaust, explosive and cutting types of fasteners, as well as where the hidden heads take place - drill. For this, the drill corresponding to the estimated or precisely known diameter of the hole is set exactly to the center of the mortgage or closing head, after which the well is made to the necessary depth or through channel. After that, several accurate blows can be easily knocked out.

Rivet Removal Tool

The second method is somewhat laborious, however, quite effective for heads that are clearly visible above the surface, that is, for semicircular and conical. You will need a special chisel, resembling a form of a chisel, with which you need to cut down a hat, causing sharp and strong blows on the rear end of the handle. Also, the chisel can also be suitable, but this tool is recommended only for rivets of small diameters. The fasteners with a rod of about 1 centimeter and more in such a way it is very difficult to cut.

The easiest method for removing rivets with protruding heads is to apply the angular grinding machine, in the spaciousness, called the grinder. It is best to install a cut disk for this purpose, and by clicking on the side to the head, gently cut it off. If there is a chance to damage the surface of the part with which the connection is removed, it is recommended to use a coarse grinding disk, with which the head simply becomes gently to the base. Next, by setting any sufficiently acute tool, for example, a displacement, you can easily knock out the rivet rod from the hole.

In many industrial products, rivets are used, as a way to securely and quickly bore a node, which will not be able to understand. Often it is so connected by thin sheet metal. If you have a need to remove a riveting and not damage the surface of the product, then I will offer three all available methods to achieve the desired result.

Driving rivets

The easiest and safest way, from the point of view of mechanical impact, is drilling drilling.

We take a screwdriver or drill. Install the drill of the desired diameter. And drill through a riveting.

We pass through.

This method does not damage the connected metals if the drill is selected correctly. Although it is pretty specific and will not suit you if your rivets are semi-rounded hat.

Cutting Bulgarian

This is the fastest and at the same time the most traumatic way to remove rivets. Therefore, if you are insecurely owning such a tool as an ush (Bulgarian), I sincerely do not recommend using it.

We need:

• Bulgarian.
• Screwdriver.

ESM spill heads from all rivets installed.

And knock them out a screwdriver.

That's all the trick.

In this method, simply damage the surface of the product and break the disk itself, since cutting is at an angle. And one incorrect movement can spoil everything. Mandatory use protection tools.

Sut off the hat rivets chisel or screwdriver

Now the way is called classic. It uses the majority of both professionals and beginners. It does not require special equipment, electricity, preparation. The most accessible and at the same time the slowest cutting method of rivets.
It will take:

• A hammer.
• Screwdriver or chisel. It all depends on the diameter of the rivet.

If the size is small, we take a screwdriver, put at the angle and blows of the hammer cut off the hat.

If the rivet is big, then it is better to apply chisel. We act as well as a screwdriver.

We also knock out a screwdriver.

This method can be used when rivets are a bit: one, two or three. Or when there is nothing of the above equipment in the first two ways.
If the rivet connections are very much, it is better to use a more mechanized removal method.
Be careful when working with metals. Also share in the comments with your suggestions, everything will be interested.

Many have seen this device in stores selling tools - but not everyone knows how to use it. Those who have never held an exhaust riveter in their hands - they simply will not be able to assess the convenience and versatility of its use.

The rivet compounds were and remain universal and inexpensive way to splicing various parts. In shipbuilding and aircraft and aircraft - this is generally the only way to fasten the trim to the frame.

The classic riveting looks like this:

That was how the hull "Titanic" and the handle to your skillet was riveted.

IMPORTANT! The riveting compound is non-separable. To split parts, it is necessary to break the rivet mechanically (driving, cut).

Modern technologies touched this ancient way. In everyday life, few people use the hammer and crimp nozzle. There are semi-automatic tools that allow you to sharpen the details to each other with almost one hand. True and rivets look somewhat different.

How does a manual riveter work?

To understand the process, you need to see the rivet in the work. The scheme indicates the main elements:

A rivet bushing is placed in the prepared hole. The tool is put on the core and rests on the rivet bin. The fixed rod is pulled out of the sleeve, sprinkling its upper part.

When the riveting is complete, and the core head is firmly lit in the horizontal sleeve - the rod is broken off. Machine materials are connected only by the sleeve.

IMPORTANT! The material describes a mechanical exhaust riveter. There are hydraulic, pneumatic and electrical devices. However, in everyday life they do not apply.

The principle of the tool itself and its device will also consider in the diagram.

• head (1) dresses on a core installed in a rivet hole;
• the housing (2) performs the function of the lower handle and the stannium;
• the upper handle (3), relying on the bed with the axis (9), is a power lever;
• when compressing the arms, the operating sleeve (4) compresses the collet cams (5), tightly fixing the riveting rod;
• continuing the movement, the collet mechanism pulls the rod from the rivet sleeve, forming an integral ring;
• when squeezing the handle, the conical sleeve (6) under the action of the spring (7) squeezes the cams, allowing the collet mechanism to occupy the starting lower position;
• the cover (8) is focusing for the spring, removed to maintain the collet mechanism;
• for the convenience of the operator, a shift heads (10) are stored in the housing, for various rivets diameters.