Resin wood pockets. Sealing resin pockets. Effect of a defect on wood

When working with coniferous species of wood, sometimes it becomes necessary to seal resin pockets Basically, old craftsmen correct this wood defect by putting putty. They clean out the resin cavity with a spatula or the tip of a knife and putty. But this is not the best termination method. The resin still comes out sooner or later. Sometimes the insert is made by hand, adjusting its shape to the shape of the pocket. This method is good in isolated cases. Some manage to drill out small pockets and

But the technique. science is moving forward by leaps and bounds. And it would be - it would be surprising if a man who flew into space, discovered many things that we could not have dreamed of a few decades ago, could not come up with a way to seal resin pockets.

And this way exists. It consists in sampling the resin pocket with a special milling cutter with a manual machine, and installing a factory-made insert into this profile.

The sampling is made at different depths, depending on the size of the resin pocket. Some carpenters even manage to save on this. They use one insert for two pockets - small and large.

Then glue is given into the selected groove (let's call it that) and an insert is inserted. Time is given to dry and the insert is cut or sanded, depending on how high it protrudes above the surface of the part.

These carpenter's inserts are called boats because of their shape, which really resembles a boat.

I saw small and pine boats. But there are also birch, and beech, and oak. The last three types are used to seal small cracks in the wood of the corresponding species.

The advantages of this way of fixing it are obvious. The milled groove ideally matches the shape of the boat-insert, and by selecting the boat in structure, we achieve complete or almost complete merging of the insertion point with the surrounding background. After sanding, the place of insertion does not even require a putty, the finish is so high-quality.

The problem is the lack of cheap machines and cutters on the market for this operation, as well as the difficulty of buying a small number of boats. After all, ordinary, ordinary carpenters do not have to close up resin pockets every day. But the same machines are also designed for joining parts into so-called lamellas (already with a different cutter). But we will talk in detail about the methods of joining parts of joinery products in a separate article. In the meantime, they bring me boats, as well as bitches, from the Czech Republic, Slovakia, or Hungary.

This is interesting to know. The Czechs call the machine for cutting out resin pockets “small carney” or “small boat”.

The video shows how the so-called boat is sealed with a resin pocket. Pay attention to the file with which I cut the protruding part of the boat. I have not seen such files on sale here, but you can make it yourself. It is very easy to use and not difficult to manufacture. If you cannot make a file that can be thrown on different sides, make it on one side, which is more convenient for you. If you need a more detailed description, please let me know, I will answer.

P. S. In the video, I cut the boat down immediately after inserting it into the nest. In fact, you first need to give time to dry, and only then cut off the remainder.

The interior made of natural wood looks very solid, presentable, soft and pleasant. Especially valuable is coniferous material, which, even during operation, contributes to the natural healing of all residents of the house. But there is one problem that arises when laying softwood - how to get rid of the resin on the boards, which must be solved correctly. How to remove tar from a tree in a pine bath or steam room? This is what this article will be about.

Why remove tar?

Conifers such as pine, spruce, larch are extraordinarily beautiful, but they emit natural resins not only after the cut, but also during growth. This resin is a very viscous, fluid substance, so the process of interior decoration becomes much more complicated, because:

1. Boards where the resin flows out become extremely sticky and quickly adhere to any tools and materials with which they come into contact.
2. Typically, the places where the "resin" flows out look somewhat darker than the entire board, so the uniformity of the coating cannot be achieved.
3. Staining with leaking substance is impossible and unprofitable. Paint or varnish will not harden on resin stains, respectively - there will be raised areas of the coating, unprotected from the harmful effects of moisture, which stand out in their color.

What you need to know about resin?

It is best to remove the resin only after the board has been sanded. Although the observance of this rule will not be a guarantee that the "resin" will not show itself again. Sometimes such a substance begins to ooze under the influence of certain factors after the completion of the finishing work. This factor must be taken into account before giving preference to coniferous finishing at home.

How to remove tar from the board?

In order to properly prepare all the elements for laying the floor, wall cladding or ceiling, it is necessary to correctly get rid of the resin on the boards. This can be done in several ways.

Mechanical removal

In this case, in order to remove the resin from the boards, it is necessary to wait until the fluid mass has completely solidified. Then, armed with a knife, remove each piece by hand.

Important! After removing all unwanted sagging, it is necessary to grind the surface of the wood with sandpaper or a special tool.

Solvents

To dissolve the "gum", you can use the chemistry at hand. The following means are suitable for this purpose:

• alcohol;
• White Spirit;
• turpentine;
• refined gasoline;
• acetone;
• nitro solvent.

Important! The use of any of these solvents does not affect the texture and shade of softwood. But when using it, it is advisable to protect yourself with gloves, a respirator, so that corrosive volatile vapors do not provoke irritation of the skin and mucous membranes.

Other ways and means

You can also get rid of the resin on the boards with the help of folk methods, which consist in the use of available kitchen and pharmacy solutions and powders.

The following methods effectively help to solve the problem:

• Salmon or ammonia solution. This product is diluted with acetone in a 2: 1 ratio. Apply to the surface with rubbing movements until foam is formed. The remains of foam and resin are removed after 20 minutes with a clean, damp cloth.
• Potash and soda in equal proportions (50 g each). Both substances are mixed and 1 liter of hot water is poured. To enhance the action, you can add 250 ml of acetone.
• Caustic soda. It is dissolved in half a liter of cold water. You can also add 250 ml of a solvent such as acetone.

Important! Any of these products can only be applied to a sanded, but not painted surface. Otherwise, acetone will dissolve the paint and the finished finish will not look the most attractive way.

Safe recipes

In order not to damage the wood either by mechanical or chemical action, or in the case of a small amount of "resin", use such means to get rid of the resin on the boards:

• 25 g of wood or any liquid soap mixed with 50 ml of ammonia and 1 liter of hot water;
• an acetic solution of concentrated acid and water in a ratio of 1:50.

Important! The latter is also well suited for removing alkali residues after using any other substance or solution in order to get rid of the tar on the boards. It helps a lot, including when you wash already finished walls and you need to remove the remnants of the cleaning agent from the joints of the crowns.

When the walls are already sheathed

If the resin began to emerge from the boards after they were laid on the walls, you are unlikely to have a desire to spend a lot of time on point-by-point removal of each piece of "resin" with solvents or with a knife.

In this case, you can burn through all the places of formation of coniferous tree sap with a blowtorch, then clean them with sandpaper of a suitable degree of grain.

Video

If you prefer a coniferous board, remember that you will not be able to completely get rid of the resin on the boards. It can appear at any moment, the most unexpected for you. But this is actually not such a global problem, because you can remove the "resin", and the beauty, environmental friendliness and benefits of such wood cannot be compared with any modern plastic or other material. Let your house be filled only with the pleasant scent of pine needles and always look cozy. And with minor resin problems, you now know how to deal with it.

Resin pocket - the very name of this defect explains its nature as a kind of void or cavity formed between the layers in coniferous wood and filled with resin. In addition to the fact that such a defect reduces the strength of the wood, it also makes it difficult to work with it because the resin envelops and contaminates the tool. Serious difficulties arise in connection with this defect in the finishing of products - grinding, painting, impregnation.

Grinding - a consequence of injury to the trunk of a coniferous tree. The defect is expressed in resin soaking all the wood at the site of this injury. The color of the tarred area is darker than the surrounding wood. The wood at the site of the pitching is much heavier than the base wood and is of little use for carving. The strength of the wood at the site of pitching is significantly weakened.

Cancer on a tree: 1 - cancer on a tree 2 - section

Crayfish - violation of wood tissue on the surface of the trunk with penetration deep into the middle of the trunk, resulting from infection with parasitic fungi and bacteria. In conifers, abundant resinification occurs along the borders of the contaminated area. At the same time, throughout the entire period of the disease, the wood does not grow on the affected area, the affected area does not tighten, but on the opposite side, as if to compensate for the loss, due to the increased growth, a peculiar swelling (tumor) characteristic of this defect is formed. Such wood, as you can already understand, is not applicable in carving. After cleaning the wood from the affected fibers, the remaining part can be suitable for the manufacture of decorative sculptures and other decorative products used in the design of both interiors and exteriors.

Resin pocket(4.7), The cavity inside the annual layer, filled with resin (Fig. 20). It is observed on tangential surfaces in the form of oval flat depressions, on radial surfaces - in the form of narrow longitudinal slots, at the ends - in the form of short arcuate cavities. It is found in wood, conifers, especially in spruce.

1 - radial section; 2 - tangential section. 2 - end section.

Rice. 20. Resin pocket (spruce)

One-sided resin pocket(4.7.1). Resin pocket-, shek, coming out on one or two adjacent sides of the assortment.

Pass-through resin pocket(4.7.2). Resin pocket opening on two opposite sides of the assortment.

Impact on quality.

Resin escaping from the resin pockets spoils the surface of the products and prevents them from being finished and glued. In small parts, resin pockets can reduce the strength of the wood.

Measurement

Resin pockets are measured in depth, width and length (in linear measures or fractions of assortment sizes) and in pieces:
• in sawn timber - by 1 m length or the entire side of the assortment;
• in veneer - by 1 m 2 or the entire sheet area. It is allowed, if it is due to the specifics of the assortment, to measure one or two of the specified parameters.

Core(4.8). (Invalid term, hereinafter - Ndp. Core tube). The narrow central part of the trunk, consisting of loose tissue. It is characterized by a brown or lighter color than the surrounding wood. At the ends of the assortment, it is observed in the form of a small (no more than 5 mm) specks of various shapes, on radial surfaces - in the form of a narrow, more or less straight strip.

Impact on quality

Cored assortments crack easily.

Measurement

Considered by the presence on the lateral surface. In sawn timber, it is allowed, if this is due to the specifics of the assortment, to measure the depth of the core, counting from the nearest lateral surface (in linear measures or fractions of the dimensions of the assortment).

Double core(4.9). The presence of two cores in the assortment (Fig. 21). In round timber, it is observed at the upper ends in the form of two cores with independent systems of annual layers, surrounded from the periphery by one common estimate, and is characterized by an oval cross-section of the assortment, in sawn timber - on radial surfaces in the form of two narrow ones located at an angle to each other strips of cores, at the ends - in the form of two independent systems of annual layers.

Rice. 21. Double core in plank (pine)

Impact on quality

It complicates the processing (sawing and peeling) of wood and increases the amount of waste. Double-core assortments crack easily.

Measurement

In round timber, the presence of blemish is taken into account. In sawn timber and veneer, the length of the blemish is measured along the assortment (in linear measures or fractions of the assortment size).