Cut at an angle tool. Making a parallel stop and other useful tools for circular. The process of making a box

If you need to make a neat angular connection of two wooden parts, then it is necessary to make an angular slice at their ends.

1. Stuslo

   The cheapest solution to perform cuts at an angle is a simple stub. Usually it is made of plastic or wood, it has slits to perform a saw with a saw at an angle of 45 ° or 90 °. In addition, there are stubs with a large number of holes for different angles. Use the hacksaw with small teeth and a wide web and press the wooden billet that you want to cut off to the back of the stouch. The relatively narrow stubble shown in the figure is suitable for working with small parts, for example, to cut off the wooden planks under the frame for the picture or other small wooden parts.

2. Cutting at an angle using a fixed guide

   
   

   When using this tool, the saw is fixed in a horizontal strip or guide. The angle between the workpiece and saw can be accurately set by 22.5 °, 30 °, 45 °, 60 ° and 90 °. The canvas saw is easy to replace when it is extended.

3. Electric saws for cutting at an angle

   
   

   The most convenient and fast method of performing slaughter cuts is the use of an electric saw for cutting at an angle. Having such a saw, you are not limited to the width of the workpiece. The frequency of rotation of such saws can be adjusted smoothly, they also have a connection for a vacuum cleaner to collect dust.

4. Working with a saw for cutting at an angle

   
   

   If you want to cut off the beam or plinth, first measure the cut slicer exactly and mark it with a pencil by spending a line.
   Install the saw to the desired angle and hold the workpiece; You can, for example, use clamp for gluing. If you are not sure which angle is needed, first make a test cut on a piece of wood from waste.
   Before performing a cut, check that the saw blade is sharp enough - otherwise there will be a strong cleavage of the material and you will have to apply an additional force. Frames with small teeth give the best results.

5. PROMPT!

   If the saw is often getting stuck, soda the canvas saw the end of the candle. Candle paraffin will allow you to cut off without jamming.

6. Slicing width

   
   

   The maximum width or depth of cutting when working with an electrical saw for cutting at an angle depends on the diameter of the disk. The maximum cutting width is equal to the disk diameter, which is usually 250 mm. The electrical saw for cutting at an angle can be two guides. They allow you to move the saw on ourselves and get a large overall width.

7. Sawing

   
   

   Measure the cutting angle, for example, with a little low. If two wooden billets are at right angles to each other, the angle is 90 °. In this case, each of the two angles under which you need to do a cut is 45 °. Using the stub, you can make a cut at an angle of 45 ° to the left or right. For a better appearance, make sure that the same side of the workpiece will be visible from the inside and outside the completed connection. If you learned how to make slaughter cuts, you can also make a direct connection with the beveled edge to connect two wooden parts to increase the length. In this case, two strips or two plinths will be neatly connected to each other.

8. Variable Corn Corners

   
   

   When using different cutting angles, you can make a connection at the desired angle. In the case of non-standard angles, you can make a neat connection, measuring the desired cutting angle using the adjustable little or contour template. Install the Malka exactly half of this corner and make the appropriate marks on each billet. After that, set the Malka to the same angle, and you can make a neat connection.

Among the large number of construction tools there are all sorts of additional devices designed to alleviate the hard work of the masters. Drawing joinery is familiar to this a little strange name - "", which denotes the assistant tool to perform a cutting board or any other profiled material Under fixed structurally or defined an angle. For the perfect design of internal and outer protrusions, an angle is usually performed at 45 °.

Material intended for sawing at an angle may be different: plinths, door and window platbands, bagent materials, rails, eaves, etc. Stuslo is rigidly fixed on the workbench, the material is sometimes pressed the clamp - such a device is safe and convenient to operate.

Classification division

Despite the seeming ease of execution and use of the stub, has its own classification:

• simple - The most popular modification is the form of industrial or independent manufacture, most often plastic, with several side slots, which serve as a saw guide. It is intended for sawing rails, bars, corners of wood, drywall and other materials at an angles of 45 or 90 °;

• rotary - with an installed on a metal or plastic base with a hacksaw of 290 to 600 mm with the possibility of its rotation from 15 to 135 °;
• electrical - A tool that is an electric saw mounted on a swivel base.

Rotary and electric stubs are professional toolsdesigned for sawing in two planes. The most stronger and durable are considered to be made of solid wood and metal (from aluminum alloys) of the product. Metallic stusles are recommended to use for hand-drawn parts of a small thickness, wooden - for a small amount of work.

How to use stupid?

Master the stub is completely simple. In addition to the tool itself for properly organized work, it will be necessary:

• hoven for the direct saws of wood or plastic coated under veneer (for the hacksaw it is important to take into account the pitch of the teeth);
• mounting knife for cutting foam;
• ruler and pencil for notches and marks at the initial stages of development;
• sanding paper for surface treatment after cut to remove irregularities, roughness and burrs.

Sawing of a roll material

It is often when laying outdoor or internal wiring, as well as in other cases, it is necessary to qualitatively cutting the wheels material (for example, a cable channel) at an angle of 45 or 90 °.

To this end, the rake or cable channel is fixed in the stouch housing with an emphasis in a foot wall and a tree or metal (depending on the rail material) the desired cutter is performed.

After a neat removal from the spot, the parts of the possible irregularities and burrs will be shrinking almost perfectly, without the slightest clearance.

Jewelry fit

Stuslo successfully cope not only with sawing under the desired angle, but also with a thorough millimeter fitting material. Without tight fixation of the material in the form and directed under a certain angle of grooves, the cutting part of the hacksaw will "walk", and the cut will not be fulfilled exactly, but only with some approach. Only the use of stusla will help remove the "extra" millimeter of length.

Work with ceiling plinth

Installation of foam plinth into the tool is made in the same way as the Wheel Material. Depending on the desired type, the hacksaw goes on the appropriate groove. Due to the frequent step of the cutting part of the hacksaw, the location of the plinth will be smooth and without additional processing.

For a more dense fit, both in the interior and the outer corners of the walls can be rotated in a conveniently plinth.

It should be remembered:

• to avoid the joints of serious cracks before starting work, it should be checked at what angle there is a plane of the walls;
• for the inner corner, the plinth surface adjacent to the wall should remain, for the decoration of the external protrusion, the opposite adjacent to the wall becomes shorter;
• to fit, especially newcomers in construction business, it is recommended to leave 3-7 mm: non-ideally smooth surfaces and the cryvitance of the plinth "will eat" this stock;
• for high-quality saws of a variety of materials, it is important to use the cutting tool only for your type;
• the place of the joint can close the external or internal elements of the decor - for example, corners. Cut in this case, it is advisable to perform at an angle of 90 °.

Ceiling-stranded ceiling plinths, which do not have ugly gaps into a finger thick, effectively complete the framing of surfaces and give the room a finished look. With the acquisition of some experience, working with stupid will allow in the future to issue the most complex building structures.

Other Stusl applications

Stuslo - a tool not only for construction and repair work, cutting cable channels and ceiling plinths. It is useful everywhere where accuracy is required and accuracy of cut, for example, for the manufacture of a bagent frame during a decoration of photographs or pictures.

For whatever goals, the stuslo was not used, when it was cut with its use, it will be much less than a marriage than with manual measurements and the cut "on the knee".

Planning in the premises of its apartment, many think about how difficult work can be. However, everything is not so scary: the ceiling plinth can be installed with your own hands - the main thing is to know about some features of the materials from which this finishing element is made.

Different materials and their features

• Wood . The most durable material in comparison with the two other shown below, the advantages of which are to hardness, impact resistance and ability to withstand certain mechanical loads. However, wooden plinths (another name - cartoons), glued on the ceiling, are also relatively easy to process - they can be cut (for this it is used with a tree with a varnish. The tree will give the interior warmth. Of the minuses you can call higher than that of the foam, the cost. However, the appearance of wooden cartoons retain longer than foam.
• Styrofoam . Perhaps this material is the most fragile - it is unstable to mechanical damage, scratches and even non-mounted shocks. Of the advantages - light weight, the possibility of staining in various colors and simplicity in processing (it can be cut by the stationery knife - the truth is very neat).



• Polystyrene foam . This material can be considered a type of foam, however, its strength characteristics are slightly higher (extruded polystyrene foam is more dense than foam). As for processing - polystyrene foaming is as easily cut in a conventional sharp knife, and also has a small weight, and this is an important factor in taking into account the load on the walls.



Both of polyfoam, and polystyrene foam has one significant advantage: the softness of the material allows you to closely press the plinth to the corners and to each other, as a result of which the gaps remain. In addition, modern polystyrene plinths are manufactured in such a way that they have a small deepening - especially for hidden laying of wiring.

Useful. Can turn the appearance of a standard apartment into an elegant stylish interior.

Stuslo - Tool for cutting the corners of the plinth

There are two ways to cut the corners - using the tool (stus) and without it. We will look at both methods.



Plastic stuslo

Stuslo - a carpenter tool, which is a small rectangular tray (it can be made independently from the tree or purchase ready-made of plastic or metal), in the walls of which there are grooves. The grooves directed the blade of the hacksaw at a certain angle to the tray axis.

Important: the cutting angle of the base of the plinth is always oblique and equal to 45 ° when items are processed for installation of the bug in the ceiling corners. Kosy slice provides a more dense adjacent of cartoons.

Making a stouch with your own hands

Unfortunately, not all at home has all the arsenal of carpentry tools, but the semblance can be made independently. To do this, the rectangular tray made of dusts is labeled, then the grooves are cut in the walls - at an angle of 45 °.





Homemade plywood stub

To measure the angle, you can use 2 knocked boards and a vehicle or a conventional rectangular triangle - here is the stouch and ready!



1 method - trimming the edges of the plinth using stub

It is worth noting that the ceiling angles can be internal and outer, and the difference between them lies in the methods of docking and different angles of cuts. The first are in the joints of two walls and the ceiling, the second - when designing protrusions, columns, outer edges of niche, pilasters, etc.

The angle of inclination of the groove in the stub can be equal to 45 °, and 60 °, and 90 °. Professional carpenters acquire a stood with a swivel mechanism - in such a very convenient to turn the cutting tool when cutting the plinth.

Cutting "inland" angles

Important! For cutting "inner" angle, the cartel should be put on the bottom of the stouch with the upper part - the one that will be glued to the ceiling. In this case, the lower part of the bar must be tight pressed against the tray wall.



Step 1: The correct measurement of the plinth length according to its marking on the wall, the application of the "serif" with a pencil on the material for the future cut.

Step 2: Installing the material in the stub. From the correct placement of the plinth in the tray, the correctness of the edges of the cartel, and, accordingly, the accuracy of accuracy of them on the ceiling will be dependent.



Step 3: After the plinth is installed and tightly fixed in the stupid (it is possible to just press the material with one hand), a knife is set to the groove under 45 °. Now the material can be cut. The edges of the second plinth, which will be adjacent to the first, are cut in the same way, only as if in the mirror reflection (the plinth is installed in the opposite direction, the edges are trimmed also at an angle of 45 °).

Important: when trimming the edges of the cartel, jewelry accuracy is needed - otherwise the material will be spoiled, and the appearance of the plinths in the joints of the walls too. If polystyrene foam plinths are used, then the edges can be cut off with a conventional sharp knife without stouch. However, it should be remembered that cutting angles should be made from the front side.

Cutting "external" angles

The difference between the "external" corner from the "internal" is that the plinths must speak a little from the edge of the wall - for the so-called adhesive.

We repeat steps 1, 2, 3, similar to the cutting of the "internal" corners. However, it should be remembered that the upper part of the plinth (one of the edges) must have a small allowance. The second (adjacent) pad is cut off in the same way, only the mirror to the first.



Cut the edges of the wooden ceiling plinth lighter (and better) with all the metal hacksaw - with small frequent teeth. Then cuts will be more neat and even. And the polyfoam is well cutting and the usual sharp knife (or construction) - but the blade should be well honed, otherwise the material will crumble when cutting.

Stuslo is an adaptation to which the Wizards of the joinery of the centuries use for the dumping of platbands, plinths, bagent planks and other parts where the connection "on the Us" is required. What features of various types of such tools, will understand together.

Stuslo manual - amateur tool?

The word it came from German - Stöße.(butt), Stoßlade. - Stuslo. It is a fixture of a rectangular tray with slots on the side of the sides, usually at an angle of 45º. It is usually made of wood, less often from plastic and aluminum alloy. A "box with propyl" type tool is factory manufacture, and you can make a stubby with your own hands. This simple design is used for cutting parts from wood and metals. Used in pieces of production.

Stusla simple design is in demand. Many well-known firms, along with all sorts of complex tools, produce such "boxes with propyl". When buying a stub, it is advisable to choose a product of brands that have already proven itself. For example, the model Fit 41255. Solid plastic is designed for cutting wood, metal and plastics. Details can be filled with 22.5º, 45º, 90º and 135º. The kit includes two eccentric for fixing the part. Weighs 700 g, length - 310 mm, maximum width of the processed part - 120 mm. Can be equipped with a saw.

Recognized in wide circles masters is Stanley 1-20-112.which is made of impact-resistant plastics by the method of injection casting, completed with two eccentrics, you can cut off the blanks at an angles of 22.5º, 45º, 90º along the vertical plane and under 45º - by horizontal, overall dimensions - 310x130 mm. It may be firmly fixed on the workbench. Easy to use also Bison 15375-75Such a stub is made of impact-resistant ABS plastic, the grooves that allow you to cut the blank to the end without damaging the device are revealed. Stuslo Stayer 15402 (PROFI) It differs from other models in that it is possible to cut the parts at any angle in the range from 0 to 180º, the step of graduation -15º. For reliable fixation of the angle there is a fastening screw.

Stuslo as a professional tool

In the face of the workshop, when higher performance is required, simple stusla no longer meet the requirements, and rational acquire professional mechanical devices, with a metal case and a swivel carriage. In such instruments, instead of side walls with propilation, there is a special swivel design, with a securely fixed saw blade. Almost all rotary models are equipped with training saws. This is a hand saw with a thickened and fortified special lining of the web. Such a fairly rigid design allows you to mostly perform all sawing operations at any angle.

All professional stubs have a graduation from 0 to 180º, in addition, almost all of them can solve in two planes. The most sought-after brands: Fit., Champion, Stayer. and Bison.

• Fit pros 41321. - Rotary stub, comes with a saw, the length of the working part is 600 mm. It is made of steel, aluminum alloy and durable plastic. Built-in clamp reliably fixes the workpiece. The saw blade is made of high-quality steels.
• Champion 180. - swivel stub, length - 0.5 m, equipped with an arctic saw, canvas with 1.4 mm increments. There is fixation by 45º and 90º, as well as angles for sawing blanks for polygonal (4, 5, 6, 8 and 12 corners) of products. It is possible to adjust the depth of propyl, the maximum height is up to 200 mm. Maximum billet width - up to 200 mm.
• Stuslo-Pila Bison - Professional, swivel model for cutting blanks in vertical and horizontal planes. The saw is fixed on the body of the device on the rotary axis and can be set to the desired angle. You can install the canvas to work with non-ferrous metals, alloys and steel. The saw is made on the predominate equipment from the material that provides structural rigidity and strength. On the work surface of the scale in centimeters and inches to determine the size of the workpiece, there is also a scale in degrees.
• Stuslo-Pila Stayer. It is used for accurate sawing blanks, it is quite high, the accuracy of the installation of the angles is quite high, the base of the stub is marked - allows you to work without additional measuring instruments. The depth was cut to 600 mm, the width of the workpiece up to 160 mm. The base of the device is metallic, the tension of the saw blade is adjustable.
• But the firm stub Küpper. - An even more functional product. The device differs from other types of this class by the fact that not only the saw turns to the desired angle, but the entire carriage moves along the guide on the stusl body. This allows you to fix the carriage at any point of the workpiece without moving it. To set the specified angle, you need to combine the necessary values \u200b\u200bon the carriages and housing scales. Sawing can be carried out in horizontal and vertical planes. To work in the vertical plane there is a special hinge with a scale. You can work in both planes at the same time. Fixed blanks with removable clamps. There is a function that allows you to set the desired depth of propyl, it matters in the manufacture of details with "spikes". The maximum billet cross section is 150x150. Length of the canvas 0.7 m.

How to make a stouch and how to use it?

Whatever the tool you caught for the corner cut, the principle of working with it is the same, so I will state in a few words how to properly use stupid. Suppose we, then the first thing to measure the angle under which the walls are converged, divide it to 2, and we plan a cut line on the product. Parts of the plinth must have the length of the wall and on each side where the angle will be cut, have a stock of 5 cm. The face of it is placed in the stub, the markup should coincide with the slot on the instrument, i.e. Become a continuation. Firmly press the plinth to the box and cut the hacksaw, it is also cut off the adjacent part, just put the slot on the other side. We clean all the sandpaper, trying to the wall, if everything coincides without gaps, you can fix the plinth to the wall.

If you buy a factory instance of the instrument there is no desire, then you can develop your own plan, how to make a stub, although it will have to be born over its accuracy, it is here that it is important to measure seven times and only to cut off. Find the board from a durable tree of wood with a thickness of up to 1.5 cm, if it is very durable (deciduous), then coniferous, but the thickness must reach 2 cm. Spin and make the blanks for the bed and sides, the width of 15 cm remains. Connect them into a box at a right angle.

You can only use self-tapping screws, but our advice - additionally wake the ends with glue and use. Lock the entire design and leave to dry, removing the spoken glue.

Now the time of markup and the creation of the slots come, here you need to measure the corners, in the simplest case you will help the square. First we apply on both ends with a mark 90 ° (two lines opposite each other), then retreat 15 cm and apply oblique lines for the corners of 45 ° and others that you will be presumably needed in further work, between each following marks retreat the distance equal to the width of the box This will ensure the maximum service life. It remains thin and well sharpened with knife to cut the slits and stick them. So we made our stouch, how to use them, we already know, so you can start repairing the house.

Industrial machines in the role of Stusla

A manual stub is quite suitable in the production of small parties, but can not satisfy the demand for cutting in mass production. In industry uses ending saws or stusing with electric drive. The working body of the fraternizing machine is the head with a fixed saw disk. The head can rotate relative to the table in the horizontal plane at an angle of 45º in both directions. In modern industries, machines can be used with rotation of 15, 22.5, 30 and 55º. The machine can be used as an ordinary circular, the disk can be replaced in a few minutes.

First of all, when choosing a fine saw, you need to pay attention to the power - for a home workshop optimally no more than 1.6 kW and 5-6 thousand revolutions. Fantasy machines produce most firms specializing in the release of power tools. Leader, of course, Bosch, GCM 10 J - Excellent model of the leading German company collected in China. Power 1 kW, number of revolutions of 4.5 thousand per minute. The design of the electric motor provides reliable dust protection. Turning angle - 45º in both directions, the maximum depth cut to 90 mm, the width of the workpiece is up to 130 mm. Installation weight - about 15 kg.

Does not lag behind the leader and Hitachi C 8 FShe - This Japanese model is popular and at home masters, and from professionals. Power 1.05 kW, turnover - 5,500 rpm, cutting angle of 45º. You can process wood, aluminum, laminate, polymers. The depth of cut 75 mm, the width of the workpiece - up to 312 mm, weight is also about 15 kg. The kit includes LED backlight, dust collector, laser pointer. But the domestic representative Enkor Corvette It has all the same advantages as imported analogs, but it costs about two times less, and weigh 18 kg. In addition, the dust collector needs to be purchased separately!

Stuslo - tool for sawing blanks at a certain angle. These billets can be made of wood and plastic. Most often it is used for cutting door trim, plinths, wooden bars.
Manually cutting the bar at an angle of 45 degrees you will not succeed, so it is invented such a tool - stuslo.

They are different widths and length, depending on the size of the workpiece.
Here, for example, in the photo below the most common.

One of the inexpensive models, with it, you can cut a blank size of 65mm in width and 35mm in height. If the billet is higher, then the saw into the grooves will not be inserted.
It is possible to cut at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees.
This is suitable for small thin bars and non-sequers. Included there is a simple saw with a small non-steal tooth.
This option is quite good for infrequent homework, the plastic is pretty cloth.
Approximate price for 2013. - 120 rub.

If you use a stupid constantly, then take better option for more expensive, but it is better.


The stouch itself is already wider wider, you can cut the blanks with a width of 100mm and a height of 52mm. Unlike the first option, it is possible to cut not only at an angle, but also under the tilt,


those. It turns out to make an angle in different planes. The plastic is already much thicker, the body due to this is more tough and reliable. For convenience, it can be attached to the table with bolts or screws. There are two holes for this.
There is a markup on the housing for convenience.
Included there is a saw with a tempered tooth, the knob is a rubberized powerful, in his hand sits perfectly. So that the canvas did not be cut, there is an edge rib on top.
Approximate cost of 350 rubles.

Another option. With eccentric clamps that allow you to fix the blanks of any form, and not just a rectangular level, but even round.


There are angles of 22.5 degrees, 45 and 90, you can also cut under the tilt.
The width is 110mm, the height is 75mm - for quite serious billets.
Made of thick plastic, can be fixed on the workbench.
The saw is not completed, it will have to buy separately, it costs 150 rubles.
Self-stub 300rub.