Is it possible to run the heating pipe over the door. Two-pipe heating system in a one-story house. Features of the device of a two-pipe heating system

The installation of heating in a private house begins after the installation of the roofing in it and the installation of windows and doors.

In modern construction, increased requirements are put forward for the aesthetics of premises, which, in relation to heating systems, involve the implementation of communications of the heating system hidden from sight. The pipes are “hidden” in the wall gates or in the floor screed, which is more convenient. If it is not possible to conduct heating mains in the floor screed (for example, the floor can be wooden), they are carried out in the walls.

Blitz conclusion! Installation of home heating is necessary, or rather convenient, to be performed at the stage of plastered walls, but the absence of a floor concrete screed.

Installation of heating radiators

It is better to carry out "accurate" installation of heating radiators on an already plastered surface, which will avoid their incorrect installation relative to the wall surface.

The best option may be to install heating radiators:

A radiator is hung on the plastered wall.
With a hidden pipe laying in the walls, the boundaries of the strobes are outlined.
The radiators are removed from the suspensions and "moved away" at a sufficiently large distance from the work site. Agree that extra scratches and scuffs on the radiators will not add value to them!
Grooves are grooved in the walls for laying the pipeline.
The radiators are hung in their places, and then the heating pipes are wired and connected to the radiators.
Pipes are fixed in grooves at the exit points from the wall with alabaster or cement mortar.
After the solution hardens, the radiators are again disconnected from the system, removed and taken to a place “safe” for their appearance of storage.

Installation of the heating system of a country house "on top" of the finishing work can also be done in a hidden way. For this, boxes are used, fixed along the plinth at the bottom of the walls. In the absence of specialized structural elements for hidden installation of heating in a private house, you can use a conventional plastic box for electrical work of a suitable section.

Attention! When installing heating systems, it is necessary to ensure that high-rise "hills" do not form in the system, in which air can accumulate, preventing the passage of the coolant through the system. For example, bypassing the heating pipe of the door opening must be performed in the floor, and not create an additional huge loop above the top point of the door opening.

In case of the forced "emergence" of such "humps" in their upper points, it is necessary to install automatic air valves.

The installation of the heating system of a private house must be carried out in warm rooms, since in the technical documentation of most polymer pipes, the manufacturer declared the working "installation" temperature> +5 ° C. Operation at lower temperatures leads to an increase in the brittleness of the pipe material, the efficiency of welding of polypropylene pipes of the systems decreases heating and brazing copper pipes.

Important! The optimal installation time for heating in a private house should ensure that the system can be put into operation before the onset of frost.

Piping when installing heating in a private house

Since at present, heating systems of private houses with forced circulation of the coolant in them are mainly used, in this section, in order not to spray too much, we will focus on a closed two-pipe heating system with forced circulation.

Methods for arranging pipes when connecting heating radiators to the boiler:

beam scheme (collector version);
tee circuit;
mixed (combined scheme.

Installation of heating in a private house with radial (collector) wiring involves connecting each heating radiator to a pair of collectors with separate pipes: supply and return. Each collector, in turn, is connected to the boiler (or other collector) by a pair of pipes: supply and return.

Installation of heating with a collector group gives the heating system some positive and negative qualities:

the possibility of differentiated regulation of the degree of heating of each radiator or group of radiators;
lack of connections in the floor and in the walls (a solid pipe is used from the collector to the radiator);
it is necessary to allocate space for the installation of the manifold cabinet;
correct installation of the collector group above the level of the main pipelines, which usually pass through the floor, allows the installation of air valves on the collectors;
significantly increasing cost in relation to other installation schemes.

The installation of heating and water supply systems in a tee method involves the parallel connection of radiators to the supply and return pipes, which usually run just above the plinth along the walls. With a considerable length of such "main" pipes, it should be possible to install larger diameter pipes at the beginning of the system (from the riser).

"Tee" or parallel scheme of installation of radiators of the heating system

Hello. In a frame one-story house under construction with an area of \ u003d 70m2, there is a furnace area \ u003d 5m2 (1.7x3m). Is it possible to install a solid fuel boiler for radiator heating and hot water supply (kitchen + shower) there. Schematic diagram of heating: two-pipe, forced, closed type. Thanks to. Arsentiy.

How to bypass the outer door correctly with a 2-pipe heating system of the House. Thanks. Arsentiy.

Hello Arsentiy!

A very approximate required heat output of the boiler for your home is 10-12 kW. The boiler room area of 5 m2 is sufficient for its placement, provided that the ceiling height is at least 2.5 m. However, the room is a bit narrow. Most likely, 1.7 m is enough to maintain the boiler and observe fire-prevention distances, if the walls and ceiling are lined with non-combustible material or protected with thermal insulation panels. There is even room for a small supply of firewood. It is also necessary to maintain a distance of at least 2 m from the place of laying firewood (door opening) to the opposite wall. More precisely, you can say, knowing the brand of the boiler and the location of the furnace in the house. The heating scheme and the structure of the building in this case do not matter.

Get around - in the same way you get around obstacles. By the side. For a door that stands upright, the sides are above and below. Accordingly, the heating supply line in a natural circulation system can be located above the door, under the ceiling, and the return line, below the door level, in the floor screed. If the movement of the coolant is carried out using a pump, both pipes are more convenient and easier to place in the floor. And you can also think about a project and find a solution in which the heating pipes will not intersect with the door at all.

Two-pipe system with forced circulation, the supply and return lines are hidden between the logs of the wooden floor, without interfering with the opening of the entrance door

Arseny, we are worried that the question you asked us belongs to the category of "kindergarten". This is not even about complex heating technology, but about the simplest hydraulics. Principles of the movement of liquids - a physics textbook for the 7th grade of a comprehensive school. If its solution caused you difficulty, how are you going to independently equip the heating in the future? After all, there will be more and more questions, and they will become more and more complicated. It will take quite complex calculations for a "teapot", special knowledge. Apparently, you are trying to study heating engineering from articles on the Internet and so far your understanding of the subject has not advanced very far. It should be understood that this is a rather complex science, heating engineers have been taught for five years and, alas, not always successfully. Perhaps, having spent a lot of time and nerves, you will even be able to assemble a more or less efficient heating system. However, will it be rational? Or do you have to invite "crisis plumbers" to fix mistakes?

Perhaps you should focus on your main job, where you are successful? We strongly recommend that you consider involving professionals in the heating of your own home. First of all, the designer. The specialist will optimally calculate the parameters of the system, which will make it economical and efficient. The little money that you spend on the project will pay off due to the rational, without overspending, the choice of materials and moderate operating costs. Thermal comfort is also worth something. If you still decide to install the heating yourself, if you have a project, it will be much easier to do this than without it. You will need exact adherence to the drawings, free time, accuracy and an expensive tool that you can not buy, but rent.

1 Design and features of a one-pipe system
1.1 Benefits
1.2 Disadvantages
2 Planning
3 Installation
4 videos

Having built a house, many people begin to think about how to make heating in it. It should be noted right away that this approach is fundamentally wrong, since it had to be taken care of at the planning stage. This is due to the fact that if you want to install a one-pipe heating system with polypropylene pipes, then it will not be so easy, and you may have to destroy what has already been done. This concerns not only making holes in the walls, but also chipping the floor, since it is quite understandable to want to make the home not only warm, but also beautiful by laying the pipes in such a way that they do not spoil the design of the heated room.

The device and features of a one-pipe system

One pipe system

The peculiarity of a one-pipe heating system is that a pipe goes from the boiler, the other end of which again comes to the boiler. Heating radiators are connected to it without breaking the line.

Such heating systems can be:

horizontal (flowing);
with top routing (vertical).

Both systems can be either closed or open.

Radiator thermostat The classic (most often used) is horizontal pipe routing. For retrofitting any battery, you can purchase:

radiator regulator;

Ball Valves;

thermostatic valve, etc.

As mentioned at the beginning of the article, one of the advantages of a one-pipe system is the ability to hide communications in the floor. This is an important factor, because now few people hide heating radiators behind curtains, and this is not practical, since the air circulation near the batteries is disrupted, as a result of which it is necessary to raise the temperature on the boiler, and this leads to unnecessary fuel consumption.

If the assembled system does not have a counter slope or height differences, then it can work without a pump.

Read also Combined heating systems: building systems using different types of fuel

Advantages

The installation of a one-pipe system is carried out with a smaller number of pipes (30-40%).

A simple wiring diagram that can be installed by a layman.

Compared to a two-pipe heating system, the installation of a single-pipe heating system is faster.

The system can be installed both in a one-storey building and in a building with several floors.

There are no problems with how to bypass the doorway when installing pipes.

disadvantages

Installed Mayevsky crane

Having talked about the advantages, it is necessary to mention the disadvantages.

Each battery must be equipped with a Mayevsky valve or an automatic bleeding system from the air system.

Uneven distribution of the coolant - more chilled water comes to each next battery, so the efficiency of the last radiator will be low. The situation can be improved by installing a circulation pump in the system.

Planning

Not everyone can use computer programs for modeling in 3D projection of their home, which would undoubtedly be very convenient. Given this nuance, consider how to make a plan by hand by writing everything on a piece of paper.

When drawing up a diagram, you need to take into account the peculiarity of installing a system from polypropylene pipes - it is impossible to make smooth turns in it.

When making a drawing, you need to take into account that the line must be laid with a slight slope - at least 0.5 cm per 1 rm of the pipe, otherwise it will not work without a pump.
We decide on the place of installation of the boiler.
If, for some reason, the pipes cannot be hidden in the floor, then you will have to perform outdoor installation or partially hide the pipes in the floor - in the place of greatest depression.
On the diagram, we mark the places where the batteries are installed, noting what power they should be.

It is important to choose the height of the battery and the number of sections

When determining how many sections are needed for a room, you need to take into account that each subsequent battery heats up weaker, so you need to increase the number of sections of type-setting batteries (or the area if the radiators are steel).

If taps, heat regulators, etc. are installed, then this should also be reflected in the diagram.
Having a complete picture, you can calculate how many pipes, fittings and those elements that are planned for retrofitting are required.

Tichelman wiring device

Let me remind you: Tichelman's scheme looks something like this:

The main advantages of the Tichelman circuit: versatility, good controllability (each radiator can be adjusted separately).

All radiators operate under practically the same conditions in terms of coolant flow rate and pressure drop; with equal surface areas, they also have equal heat transfer.

Despite the apparent complexity, this complexity ... just apparent. You just need to practice drawing such diagrams on the plans.

How to get around the door when installing a heating system according to the Tichelman scheme?

What to do if an obstacle is encountered during installation according to the Tichelman scheme? For example, a door:

And not only when installing the pipeline according to the Tichelman scheme, but also according to any other scheme.

There are several options.

Simplest:

Here the door is bypassed with a pipe from above.

Important! In the area above the door, an automatic air vent must be installed so that air does not accumulate.

Minus: the appearance of the room will still be the same; especially if it is a living room, not a hallway. Yes, the automatic air vent tends to leak from time to time, which is also not pleasant.

Another variant:

We pass under the door. That is, the pipe goes below floor level. Is there such a possibility? Not always: maybe the floor has already been made, or maybe there is such a screed that you can't grind it out ...

"Normal heroes always go around ...". So we can go around the room in the opposite direction:

Why not?

Tichelman's scheme for piping radiators of two floors

This option is shown in the figure:

Moreover, here not each floor is individually tied according to the Tichelman scheme, but the entire system. The main pipes (supply and return) are made of metal-plastic with a diameter of 20 mm, radiators are connected to them with a 16 mm pipe.

Tichelman's scheme for piping radiators of three floors

We look at the picture:

Here, too, not each floor has its own harness, but one harness made according to the Tichelman scheme for all three floors at the same time. Risers are made, for example, with a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 26 mm, supply and return on floors with a diameter of 20 mm, and outlets to radiators with a pipe of 16 mm.

But still! If possible, it is better to connect each floor separately and with its own pump, otherwise, if there is one pump for all floors, then if the pump fails, there will be no heating on all floors at once.

So, let's draw conclusions.

Tichelman's scheme has advantages over other radiator piping schemes: 1) versatility (suitable for any premises, layouts, etc., including large areas); 2) all radiators warm up evenly. Despite the external complexity, it is quite affordable to master the installation of heating according to this scheme. Just read again about the pipe diameters with such a layout. And - use it. Good luck.

Tichelman's scheme

Ensuring the comfort of staying in the premises of the house at any time of the year is one of the main concerns of the owners. But efforts to insulate the walls, to install an appropriate heating system can be in vain if the heat is free to escape through windows or doors. This is especially true of those buildings in which, for one reason or another, they open very often or even remain open for a long time.

A simple situation: the owners of the house open a family business - a workshop, shop or office space. On the one hand, numerous customers are great, but at the same time, frequent opening of doors can quickly cool off even a well-heated room, and this is a serious cost of energy resources. Another option is the specifics of the activity of a private workshop, equipped in a garage or in a special annex, requires constant or very frequent opening of the gate (). To provide yourself with acceptable conditions for effective productive work in the winter, you will have to spend exorbitant forces and resources to maintain a normal temperature. But there is a way out - in both cases, the heat curtain on the front door should help.

What is a heat curtain for?

That it was easier to understand the purpose of the thermal curtain, you should first understand how cold air enters the house through open doors. This process is due to several reasons - the difference in temperatures outside and inside the room, caused by this difference in different pressure levels. And plus a very important reason - this is the movement of air masses along the street - wind, vortex currents created from passing vehicles, etc.

Fragment "A" shows the movement of streams of cold and warmer air through the doorway in "calm" conditions. Cold air is always denser, and with its increased pressure simply squeezes out the lighter warm air. At the same time, the cold stream is always located closer to the floor - everyone, for sure, in their everyday practice felt how "pulling cold" from under the loosely closed door.

The wind component is added to this quite common exchange (fragment "B"). It is, of course, a variable value, it depends on the direction and speed of the wind, stability or periodic gusts, the size of the doorway and other parameters, but in general, such an application of the vector of movement of air masses is still present.

As a result, as a result of the addition of both factors, we get the picture shown in fragment "C" - the "channel" of the cold air intake increases even more in area, occupying most of the doorway. In such conditions, if the door has to be kept wide open or is often opened, no heating equipment will be able to cope with the heating of the room, which will "thresh" empty. In addition, there are constant strong drafts in the rooms, which sharply increase the likelihood of colds, even if people are dressed for the season.

And what if you apply a fairly narrow but dense directional air flow. So that its pressure exceeds even the theoretically possible values of the external and internal pressure (fragment "D"). If the parameters of such a flow are correctly calculated, then it will become an obstacle to the exchange shown above, blocking off air masses outside and inside the room. Somewhat curving its configuration under the influence of external pressure on it, the flow still retains the necessary "composure" and splits only upon reaching the floor surface, dividing into two directions. A certain part goes outside, but still more significant - it comes back into the room (fragment "E").

How can this effect be used?

Picture "a" - winter time. The air receives the necessary heating, and the resulting curtain not only does not let cold masses pass inside and does not allow heated masses to escape outside, but also, returning to the room, "helps" the heating system.
However, it would be a big mistake to consider the air curtain too narrowly, only as a kind of heating device. Picture b shows her work during the warm season. The situation changes to the opposite - the cool internal air does not come out (although its density in this case is higher), and the outdoor air warmed up by the summer heat cannot enter the room. Thus, the rooms maintain a comfortable temperature for people to stay.
But that's not all. Regardless of the season and the operating mode, such a curtain performs another important function (picture "c"). A lot of dust is always suspended in the street air, especially if there is a busy highway or even a railway line in the immediate vicinity. For the same reason, the air can be overfilled with exhaust gases. Naturally, if all these "bonuses" get into the premises, the local microclimate will suffer significantly. But the heat curtain will quite cope with such a problem. This also applies to falling snow, fine drizzling rain, and in the summer - hordes of small annoying insects.
And one more application. With the help of such air curtains, it becomes possible to zone the premises according to the type of microclimate created in them. For example, it is possible to “fence off” a spacious entrance hall (where an elevated air temperature is not particularly needed, and an unreasonable amount of energy will be spent on heating such a room) from internal living or working premises, without even installing additional doors.

So, creating an air curtain helps to deal with a lot of problems. And all this can be achieved by installing a special device.

Despite the fact that the air curtain itself is a consumer of electricity, its use provides considerable benefits. So, practice shows that a correctly selected and installed device allows you to save up to 30% on energy spent on heating the premises in winter and air conditioning them in the summer. And if the owner thinks more broadly, then he cannot fail to notice that the absence of cold drafts will dramatically reduce the cost of medicines for households or the payment of sick leave for his staff.

Another important advantage is that with such a rich spectrum of possibilities, the device itself practically does not take up any useful space in the space of the room.

For clarity - a small animated video on the principle of operation of thermal curtains:

Video: how a thermal air curtain works

How an air curtain works

As a rule, an air heat curtain is an electrical device assembled in a case of a pronounced elongated shape.

In the upper part of the body there is a grill (pos. 1) through which air is taken from the room.

At the bottom there is an outlet slit-like window (nozzle) (pos. 2), which can be equipped with movable shutters like shutters.

Control elements (pos. 3) can be located on the body itself, in a place accessible for visual control and manipulation. The control panel, in addition, can be portable and located on the wall of the room in a convenient place.

There may be a terminal block on the case for connecting to the mains power supply, but on household models, there is most often a pre-wired cable with a plug for connecting to a socket (pos. 4).

In addition, many modern models provide for remote control using an infrared remote control (just like in split-system air conditioners).

The main task of the thermal curtain is to create a powerful air flow. This means that the blower fan becomes the main unit of the device. Usually these devices are not of the usual blade type, but of the turbine type, of two varieties - a more compact radial (pos. "A") or an elongated tangential type (pos. "B").

Pos. "C" is a heat exchanger, where the air flow receives the required heating if necessary. The vast majority of models have an electric heat exchanger, where air is heated from spirals or heating elements. However, there are stationary models of air curtains that are connected to existing hot water heating circuits.

Many modern air curtains have built-in filters, which simultaneously clean the air blown through the device from suspended dust.

Electronic circuits of modern curtains provide multi-level protection against short circuit, breakdown to the case, overheating, have thermostatic control modules for the heat exchanger heating level and fan speed.

Air curtain classification

There are several gradations in the classification of heat curtains.

By location relative to the doorway:

The classic design of most air curtains is a device with horizontal installation above a doorway (gate, window, etc.)

Sometimes, due to various technological or aesthetic reasons, the installation of a heat curtain from above may be impossible or irrational. For such situations, vertical devices are provided, which are installed "columns" on one, or even on both sides of the doorway.

In this regard, many models have increased versatility - their design allows, taking into account the specifics of the room, to install them both horizontally and vertically.

By installation type:

Most of the models have a metal case, the design of which implies mounting the device on a wall. However, if any increased requirements are imposed on the interior design of the room in terms of design, then you can choose a thermal air curtain that is built into the ceiling or wall along the height of the opening.

By the presence and type of heat exchanger:

According to this criterion, all air curtains can be divided into three groups:

Curtains with electric heat exchanger. Usually in the classification they are marked with serial designations. Rs, RM or RT.

Advantages - maximum simplicity of the device and installation of the device, high efficiency rates, the ability to smoothly adjust the heating temperature of the air flow.

Conventional spirals were used as heating elements on older models, but now this approach has been practically abandoned everywhere, since open heaters "burn out" oxygen and quickly dry the air in the room. Currently, tubular heaters are used by the type of all familiar heating elements, or more modern semiconductor RTS (Positive Temperature Coefficient), which have the ability to self-regulate heating and electricity consumption.

The disadvantages of electric heat exchangers are significant power consumption (not counting the costs of ensuring the operation of the fan), and some "inertia" at start-up - the heat exchanger takes a certain time to reach the operating mode.

Air curtains with water heat exchanger (series RW).

In such models, electricity is consumed only to ensure the operation of the fan and the control group. This, of course, makes the water curtains much more economical in continuous operation.

In the case (outside or hidden) there are nozzles for connecting the device to the existing circuit of the water heating system (shown by arrows in the figure).

Branch pipes for connecting the supply and "return" of the heating system of the house

The disadvantages of this type of air curtain are obvious - it is a lot of difficulties in the installation process. It is necessary to provide for branches from the general contour in advance, and provided that the aesthetics of the interior is preserved, such an operation can be quite problematic. The heat exchanger of such a curtain has a small tubular structure (like a radiator in a car), which will quickly clog if a filtering device is not provided. In addition, the consumed thermal power of such an installation must correspond to the real capabilities of an autonomous heating system so that the connection of the curtain does not affect the heating level of radiators in other rooms.

Air curtains without heat exchanger (serial designation - RV).

Such devices are used in conditions where additional air heating is not required for a year. They protect well from street dust, gas pollution, insects, from leakage of conditioned air outside. They are widely used in industrial practice - for zoning spacious rooms, protecting from the ingress of warm air into freezers or storages, etc.

By the level of power (performance) and, accordingly, the purpose:

K series Rs include mini-curtains with a limited scope. Their performance is sufficient for effective "covering" only small openings, for example, windows for receiving visitors that go out into a cold lobby, or customer service windows in street kiosks, transport ticket offices, etc. Usually they are designed for openings no more than one and a half meters high and up to 800 mm wide.

Air flow rate and pumping volume per minute are not high. In everyday life, such thermal curtains are not used in practice.

Air curtains series RM- this is the largest group of devices that are designed to be installed in most existing standard doorways, with a height of approximately 2.5 to 3.5 meters. Including, they are suitable for or for the transition from a cold hallway to the residential sector of the house.

Thermal curtain of the middle class - it is quite suitable for the front door

Such devices are the most "popular". It is these series that are most often equipped with convenient external units or remote control panels.

Powerful air curtains series RT are used to protect high openings, from 3.5 to 7 meters. These can be the gates of a car repair shop, warehouse or industrial premises, entrances to large shopping centers or buildings of cultural and social purpose.

Very often powerful installations of the series belong to this category. RW connected to central heating or hot water supply systems for public buildings and industrial facilities. the cost of water thermal curtains is significantly higher than that of electric models, comparable in performance and size.

There are also heavy-duty thermal curtains that are capable of creating an air barrier in openings and passages up to 12 meters high.

Prices for popular models of thermal curtains for the front door

How to choose the optimal heat curtain

The choice of an air heat curtain has its own characteristics, which you definitely need to familiarize yourself with before going to the store.

In addition to the already mentioned selection criteria - according to the installation site (horizontally or vertically) and the principle of operation of the heat exchanger, be sure to pay attention to the following characteristics:

The dimensions (to a greater extent - the length) of the device itself, that is, the width of the air curtain it creates.
Productivity, that is, the ability to pump a certain amount of air per unit of time.
Heat exchanger power.
Equipped with useful adjustment options.
The degree of protection, that is, the level of operational safety of the device.
For the interior design of the room, the appearance of the thermal curtain is also important.

Thermal curtain dimensions

The defining parameter, of course, is the length of the device. It must provide the required air flow over the entire width of the doorway, preventing free gaps for the penetration of cold or dusty masses from the outside. As a rule, the length of such devices is in the range of 600 ÷ 2000 mm.

For standard doorways, curtains with a length of about 800 mm are usually purchased. With a competent approach, it should be taken into account that the width of the air flow should be at least equal to the clearance of the doors, but even better if it is slightly larger.

There is one more nuance. The technology for the production of air blowers somewhat limits the length of the turbine (up to 800 mm), since when these dimensions are exceeded, the vibration phenomena sharply increase, which requires a rather expensive "suspension".

The length of the turbine is usually limited to 800 mm

Trying to minimize costs in the production of "long" models, many manufacturers follow the path of simplification: they place the electric drive in the center of the device, and the turbines - on the left and right, achieving the desired length. Such an arrangement can have a serious drawback - a "dip" or an area of reduced pressure can form in the center of the created air flow, which can become a loophole for air to enter from the outside.

If the width of the doorway is greater than the length of the model you like or even commercially available devices, it makes sense to purchase two curtains (and sometimes more), and install them close to one another.

Performance indicators of the thermal curtain

It is quite clear that the heat curtain should create an air flow, the "density" of which, that is, the internal air pressure would exceed the external one at any point in the doorway, from the installation site to the floor (on the opposite side of the doors).

It was determined by calculations that such required parameters are retained at the speed of the air layer at the point of meeting with the obstacle of at least 2.5 m / s. Naturally, due to air resistance, the speed decreases with distance from the device.

The speed and density of the air flow depend on the working diameter of the turbine, the speed of its rotation and, therefore, on the overall capacity of the injection unit. For example, the table below clearly shows the dependence of the effective range of the thermal curtain depending on the diameter of the turbine - in some cases, you can focus on the following indicators:

Distance from the outlet nozzle of the heat curtain	Air flow rate depending on the fan installed in the heat curtain
	Fan working diameter
	Ø 100 mm	Ø 110 mm	Ø 120 mm	Ø 130 mm	Ø 180 mm

0 m	9 m / s	10 m / s	12 m / s	14 m / s	-
1m	7 m / s	7 m / s	11 m / s	10 m / s	-
2 m	4 mps	4m / s	8 m / s	7.5 m / s	-
3m	1.0 ÷ 2 m / s	1.5 ÷ 2 m / s	5 mps	6 mps	-
4 m	-	-	2 ÷ 3 m / s	5 mps	-
5 m	-	-	-	3 mps	-
6 m	-	-	-	1.0 ÷ 2 m / s	-

0 m	8.5 m / s	8.5 m / s	12 m / s	12 m / s	15 m / s
1m	6.5 m / s	6.5 m / s	10 m / s	9.5 m / s	13 m / s
2 m	3 mps	3 mps	7 m / s	9 m / s	11 m / s
3m	1.0 ÷ 2.0 m / s	2 mps	4 mps	5.5 m / s	9 m / s
4 m	-	-	1.0 - 2.0 m / s	4 mps	7 m / s
5 m	-	-	-	3 mps	5 mps
6 m	-	-	-	1.0 ÷ 2.0 m / s	3 mps
7 m	-	-	-	-	2 mps
8 m	-	-	-	-	1.0 - 2.0 m / s

Most often, in the technical documentation for the product, the manufacturer directly indicates for which maximum dimensions of the opening a particular model has been developed. The performance of the system is also indicated there, usually in cubic meters per hour. It is believed that pumping 700 ÷ 900 m³ / h is considered optimal for a standard doorway with dimensions of 0.8 ÷ 1.0 × 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m. However, if you look at the equipment catalogs, you will often find curtains with much more modest values. There is no unity of views among manufacturers on this issue.

There are special algorithms for calculating the parameters of thermal curtains, which take into account not only the linear indicators of the installation site, but also the peculiarities of the location of the entrances to the building, the average temperature drops for a particular region, the prevailing direction of the winds, etc. Such calculations are the lot of specialists, and if it is not enough for someone to select a model of the characteristics declared by the manufacturer, then you can contact the appropriate design organization.

Why is the issue of performance so acute? The efficiency of the air curtain functioning directly depends on it.

Fragment No. 3 schematically shows the operation of a correctly selected model of the heat curtain. The air flow retains its "density" to meet the obstacle, and then about ¾ is reflected back into the room.
Fragment No. 2 - a heat curtain with excess capacity is installed. The speed at the floor surface is too high, and the flow is broken up so that a significant part of it is carried out. Of course, this leads to completely unjustified losses of expended energy.
And on fragment # 3 it is shown what will happen if the capacity of the created flow is not enough. The external pressure of the air masses outweighs, and at the bottom of the doorway a wide "window" opens for cold outside air. The sense of installing such a heat curtain is generally very doubtful - it simply does not play any significant role.

Heat output of the air curtain

Oddly enough, this indicator is not decisive for a heat curtain - this is their fundamental difference from seemingly related devices - heat guns or floor heating convectors installed at doors and windows or built into the floor.

The work of the air curtain heat exchanger is not aimed at maintaining the optimal temperature in the room, but only at partial compensation of heat losses through the door. It's clear. that part of the heated air during operation in the "winter" mode returns back to the room, but this circulation should only have an auxiliary effect on the heating system functioning in the building, but not replace it in any way.

At high speeds of pumping air, giving it too high a temperature is a difficult and very energy-consuming task. Usually, in most models, the temperature rise is limited at best to 20 degrees, and on thermostatic control elements, the maximum value, as a rule, does not exceed 30 ° C - more from the heat curtain is not required.

But the total power consumption is worth paying attention to. The parameters of the dedicated power supply line, the machine in the distribution board of the house, the RCD, etc. will depend on this indicator.

Management and protection systems

All electric air curtains are equipped with two levels of control: one is responsible for creating and maintaining a given air capacity, and the second for the operation of the heat exchange unit. At the same time, the protection system will never allow the heater to turn on when the turbine is not running, which protects the device from overheating.

The simplest, inexpensive models have preset levels of performance and heating of heating elements, which cannot be changed (the only exception is that you can completely turn off the heating when operating in the "summer" mode. However, such cheapness and simplification of the design are hardly justified for use in a private house - everyone wants be able to optimally adjust the indoor climate.

More sophisticated models are equipped with step regulation, for example, they have 2 ÷ 3 turbine power levels and the same number of gradations for heat exchanger heating.

However, in recent years, electronically controlled air curtains have become the most popular, which opens up the possibility for owners of smooth precise adjustments.

The presence of a thermostatic sensor will significantly save on electricity consumption - the automation will turn on or off the heating element unit only as needed.

Air curtains can be completed with remote control units, which are located on the wall. Models with remote control panels are convenient in operation.

Like all modern electrical appliances, the heat curtain must be equipped with several degrees of protection against short circuits, overheating, phase breakdown to the case, voltage drops, etc.

Constructors and designers of manufacturing firms try to make the thermal curtains externally so that they do not spoil the interior of the room with their appearance. Some models can even become a kind of decoration for the entrance lobby.

Installation of a thermal curtain

Self-installation of thermal air curtains, although not encouraged by manufacturers, is still quite possible, especially when it comes to the most common - all-electric models. In terms of complexity, it is much simpler than installing a household air conditioner.

Can I install the air conditioner myself?

Installation of an air conditioner usually requires special skills, since when installing a split system, you will need to properly charge it with refrigerant. How it is done - in a special publication of our portal.

The main thing is to provide a power line of the required power, the necessary safety and protective devices (automatic and RCD), the connection point of the device.

The set of the thermal curtain, as a rule, includes brackets (or a mounting panel), fasteners for hanging it above the doorway. The entire installation will mainly consist in carrying out a thorough marking, fixing the mounting parts on the wall plane and then hanging the device itself. It can be massive enough that you should exercise reasonable care, or better yet, enlist an assistant.

After installing the appliance, if it is equipped with adjustable shutters, they should be positioned at an angle of approximately 30 ° from the vertical towards the entrance. On many models, the design of the air nozzle itself provides a similar flow slope.

Signal cable routing and wall mounting of the remote control unit may be required. All these nuances are always described in detail in the installation manual for a particular model, and you should familiarize yourself with them in advance, even when choosing a curtain, in order to really assess your capabilities.

Installation of a curtain with a water heat exchanger is a much more complex undertaking, which often requires special heat engineering calculations and the installation of additional collector or pumping equipment. Taking on such activities without experience is not worth it.

Find out, and also read the advice of a professional, in our new article.