DIY lampshades and shades: made of thread, fabric, paper and other materials. We make a paper lamp with our own hands DIY a round paper shade chandelier

Content:

Almost all owners of apartments and private houses periodically renovate the interior of their homes. This process is different for everyone, however, certain changes and adjustments made to the design of the premises are common. One of the first places in the interior is rightfully occupied by lighting devices, especially with lampshades in the original design. A truly exclusive solution can be a do-it-yourself paper chandelier. Made in a variety of options, it will become an interior decoration, taking a central place in it. For the manufacture of a chandelier from paper, any available materials are used, so the finished product comes out not only original, but also inexpensive.

How to make a paper chandelier with your own hands

Compared to mass-produced items, handicrafts have always been valued significantly higher. This statement fully applies to homemade chandeliers, which become not only decoration of premises, but also an excellent souvenir for a gift to friends, family and acquaintances.

What is needed in order to make a do-it-yourself lampshade for a paper chandelier? First of all, you need to decide on the basic concept of the future lamp and choose the material for its manufacture. Depending on your own imagination, you can use wire, thread, lace, glass jars, balloons and many other suitable items.

The most popular paper is the best suited for design. Lamps and chandeliers made of paper look light and airy. They soften and smooth out all sharp corners, create a subdued diffused light, an unusual, romantic and mysterious atmosphere. Paper lamps can be made in any style that best suits a particular space.

DIY paper chandelier: step by step instructions

At present, the oriental style is becoming more and more popular in the design of premises. Hand-made chandeliers did not pass by similar trends. Their original design adds live colors, brightness, and festive sensations to the interior. To obtain such results, examples of Chinese chandeliers and lamps, recreated using paper and other scrap materials, are most often used.

First of all, it is necessary to think over the structure and design of the paper chandelier and only after that all the components and components should be selected. You can use plain or rice paper to make a chandelier. It is recommended to choose translucent, white or colored sheets. To give the future product the maximum resemblance to the Chinese original, you should still take rice paper for work.

It is best to buy a new cartridge. Old cartridges can be used after careful inspection, if there are no visible defects or damage. The light bulbs used in paper chandeliers should not be heated. Therefore, the best option would be. Additionally, you will need wooden strips for the frame, a ruler and a pencil, a stationery knife, an awl and thread.

The assembly procedure is performed in the following sequence:

• A scheme is preliminarily drawn up according to which the markup will be made. Use the back of the paper for the line.
• The paper is then folded neatly along the marked lines. This is an important stage in the entire operation, on which the appearance of the future chandelier depends.
• Next, the cartridge and light bulb are assembled into a single whole.
• At the next stage, the frame is assembled, in accordance with the dimensions of the paper lampshade.
• The last step will be to attach the paper elements to the frame. The paper can be glued or simply inserted into wooden frames. In the future, this will greatly facilitate the replacement of bulbs and avoid damage to the lampshade.

The main difficulty lies in the correct assembly of the frame, which is the basis of the entire chandelier. If all actions are performed correctly, you will get a smooth and beautiful product. All that remains is to apply the painting to your taste, and the chandelier is ready to use.

Paper tube chandelier lampshade

One of the original and unusual options for paper chandeliers is considered to be a lampshade, for the manufacture of which paper tubes are used. This design, in addition to ceiling lights, is perfect for table lamps, floor lamps and wall sconces, thanks to the soft, dim light.

Paper tubes are used as the main elements of this structure. To make them, you can take a newspaper or colored paper. The most important thing is that the resulting lampshade fits organically into the interior. The required number of tubes is made in accordance with the dimensions of the luminaire, but not less than 100 units. Their fastening is carried out with PVA glue, as a result of which the desired shape is gradually formed, which can be square, round, oval or arbitrary. Most often, a do-it-yourself paper ball chandelier is obtained, which fits into the interiors of most rooms.

Laying out the tubes begins from the first row, and then all other elements are built up on it. It is necessary to pay attention to the correct construction of the walls. At first, they should gradually expand towards the center, that is, the diameter of the entire structure increases, and after passing through the middle of the lampshade, it also gradually decreases. After drying, the finished lampshade can be painted in the desired color by applying paint from a spray can. As a result, the product is solid and smooth, without any defects.

Chandelier with butterflies

There are other options for making such lampshades. For example, do-it-yourself butterflies applied to a paper chandelier would be a rather original solution.

The finished product is most often used. In addition to traditional materials, you will also need thick cardboard used for the base of the lampshade. Silhouettes of butterflies are cut out on this cardboard in advance according to the template. When the lights are turned on, they cast beautiful original shadows on the walls.

There are many other options for homemade chandeliers that are not only made from paper. They can be made from any inexpensive materials that are most suitable for your interior.

Master Class

You probably already noticed that I love cardboard, and my favorite products are.

Making this lamp, I again combined these two things, making a few mistakes on the way, and learning something new!

The lamp itself is a dodecahedron, or dodecahedron in the common people, which consists of pentagons joined together. The assembly itself is not as difficult as it might seem, but it will definitely take a lot of your time and patience from you. But I guarantee you, you will be satisfied with the result!

Step 1: what we need

Cardboard. I used thin cardboard as it is easier to cut. You will also need a knife, hot glue, PVA, and an LED lamp.

Step 2: safety measures

Pay special attention to the fact that we are using an LED lamp. Such lamps will not heat the cardboard, which means they are fireproof. This is especially true if there are cats, dogs or small children in the house that can drop the lamp.

Step 3: draw the pentagons

I started by drawing 11 pentagons of the same size. Just in case you forgot geometry, a pentagon has the same sides.

Each side of the pentagon is 6 cm, but of course it depends on what size the lamp you need. The most important part, again, is to keep all the pentagons the same.

The easiest way to draw them is by making one layout, which you can then simply trace.

Step 4: cut out the details

Now you need to draw 5 more small pentagons in each of the 11 pentagons. The distance between them is about 6 mm.

When everything is drawn, it remains to cut out each pentagon with a clerical knife.

This is the longest stage, but not so difficult;)

Step 5: assembling the lampshade

I think from the photo you already understood in what order the pentagons are attached (or rather glued) to each other. The final shape looks a lot like a star, doesn't it? :)

You can glue on PVA or hot glue, I used PVA, but there is not much difference.

Step 6: assembling the lampshade

Now that all the parts are ready, you can start assembling the lampshade.

First of all, I put one pentagon in front of me, applied hot glue on two adjacent sides, and glued the other two pentagons to them so that they were connected to each other on one side (see the first photo). This side on which they join must also be glued.

Then it remains to glue the remaining sides. It is very convenient to use hot glue at this stage, because it sets immediately.

Well, that's all, the lampshade is ready!

Step 7: make the base of the lamp

To make the base, you need to cut the pentagons again, the same dimensions as for the lampshade. The number depends on how large your bulb's socket is. The larger the cartridge, the higher the base should be, the more details will need to be cut.

The width of each side of the pentagon should be slightly wider this time, that is, about 1 cm.

When all the pentagons are ready, just glue them together.

Pierre Hubert

industrial designer

Workshop curator Pierre Hubert originally from the Loire Valley, from the city of Nantes on the Atlantic coast. After graduating from an architectural university in his homeland, he decided to delay the moment of the onset of the harsh office routine for a while and tried to begin to realize his creative powers in the field of industrial design. To do this, he moved to Berlin and opened his own small atelier. Pierre is convinced that the price of a design object is expressed not in its market value, but in its emotional strength: "If an industrial object affects my feelings, does not leave me indifferent, I consider its use justified."

Eight months ago, Pierre chose The main material of his experiments is corrugated cardboard. He assures that, having cut kilometers of corrugation along and reproached, he has not yet exhausted the full potential of this material. He already has a dozen lamps, a stool and a portable folding mattress in his arsenal. All these objects are united by the ideology of the most economical consumption of material, ease of manufacture and the DIY (do it yourself) principle.

Lamp- the result of work in the Betahaus workshop - can be yours for 55 euros or at a cost price - for 5 euros. Additional investment - 3.5 hours of free time and good music, since you will have to cut a lot.

Required inventory

Dummy knife

Circular knife

Cutting mat

or any protective surface

Ruler

35-50 cm

Glue

"Moment", "UHU"

Double-layer corrugated board

two-layer corrugated cardboard sheet 1 m by 70 cm

Pierre's advice: It is most effective to cut the cardboard 2 times in a row in one place and do not forget to change the blades more often.

2

The cut squares turn in 30 circles, radius
from 9 cm to 15.8 cm.

First you need to make the markup: precisely determine the center of the future circle, measure the required radii (see) and sign the future circles according to the algorithm invented by Pierre.

Pierre's advice: it is better to do the markings always on one side, for example, on the top right, - this will subsequently facilitate the process of assembling the lamp.

3

With a circular knife circles are cut on the templates: 1 piece will take about 7 minutes, so please be patient.

4

Circles are cut, but not cut yet- now you need to go through each of them thoroughly with a knife again.

Pierre's advice: hold the knife at a slight slope: firstly, it is more natural and more comfortable for your hand, and secondly, during assembly, such a cut will emphasize the conical shape of the lamp. Take care of your nerves - do not confuse cut parts.

5

Assembly. Your hands are already hurting, But don't despair - the most enjoyable and creative part is ahead. Now the circles are turned upside down and stacked on top of each other according to the principle: A1 B1 C1 D1 E1, etc. First, assemble your lamp without gluing the layers, and figure out what kind of lighting effect you would like to achieve.

7

Retainer. To fix inside freshly glued lamp wire with a light bulb, you will need one more small part, cloned two times.

Cut a strip of cardboard 3 cm wide by 19.6 cm long. Then give it a truncated shape - cut 0.8 cm on each side so that the top edge of the strip is 18.6 cm long.Now cut 2 rectangles 0.8 cm x 1.5 cm from it - one along the long side of the trapezoid at a distance of 8 cm from the left side, the other - at a distance of 1.5 cm from the first along the short one.

Hook these three strips together and you will succeed a six-pointed star, which remains to be fixed inside the lamp, having previously pulled a cord into it.

So, having figured out how the chandelier should be arranged correctly, we take on its main lighting and at the same time decorative elements: a lampshade and a shade. Reflectors are technologically simpler; their manufacture and fastening to the supporting structure of the chandelier does not cause difficulties.

The Internet is full of pictures with really very beautiful homemade lamps. However, considering them, ask yourself a question: how to replace a light bulb there? The answer is far from always found in primary sources. Methods for fixing lighting elements in luminaires that allow replacing the lamp without the use of a tool will be discussed in the next article, but the technological methods described later in this process are designed so that the lampshade in this case either moves up, or is removed down, or you can simply climb into it hand.

Materials (edit)

In order of increasing complexity (and durability), do-it-yourself lampshades and lampshades at home can be made from paper, plastics, threads, ready-made tubes of various kinds, twine or yarn, frame with a fabric cover and stained glass. The last 2 are quite complex, but with a skillful approach to work in terms of lighting and decorative qualities, they can surpass expensive purchased ones.

It is easiest to make a paper lampshade: from materials other than paper, you will need threads and PVA glue, and from a tool - a sewing needle, scissors and, possibly, a sharp assembly knife. However, paper lampshades are fragile and therefore suitable mainly for chandeliers. But a damaged paper lampshade can be easily replaced with a new one.

You can make a paper lamp somewhat stronger in various ways. The simplest one is to collect a ball-shaped lamp from paper strips, gluing them together at the poles and among themselves, pos. 1 in fig. However, the design in this case is uniform: sufficient strength of the product is provided only and only by its spherical shape.

Elements of paper lampshades

Another way is to harden the paper itself. It will require a little additional material: a copper enameled winding wire with a diameter of 0.25-0.4 mm or threads. In the first case, the lampshade will fit without additional reinforcement for a floor lamp, and in the second, for overhead decorative elements you will need a solid supporting base, for example. from a plastic bottle. The paper for the lampshade is strengthened with wire as follows:

• On a sheet with a density of 90-140 g / sq. see draw out the outlines of parts.
• A finely sharpened pencil, or a mechanical one with a 0.6 mm rod, draw the lines of the stiffness grid. If the lampshade will be glued together from several solid or slightly cut sheets, the grid lines should form a seamless pattern.
• Apply a thin layer of PVA glue with a brush.
• When the glue dries to tack, veins are applied along the mesh - stiffeners - made of wire.
• Lubricate with the same PVA sheet with a density of 35-60 g / sq. cm, put on the first one and smooth it gently with your fingers.
• After a day, the parts are cut out with scissors, glued together and painted. Thus, you can even make imitations of the wings of rare species of butterflies, pos. 2; in this case, the Swallowtail Maak.

When using threads, both sheets are taken with a density of up to 60 g / sq. see Then, as said, you need a supporting base, but you can even imitate the texture of rose petals, pos. 3.

Note: paper lampshade, durable "almost like real" can be made from papier-mâché. The technology, which is quite laborious, is described below, see about lampshades for the kitchen.

Plastics

It is elementary to make a lampshade for a chandelier from disposable plastic cups fastened with a stapler, see fig. Its lighting qualities are very good, but the look is frankly utilitarian. Therefore, it makes sense to use such lampshades in rooms with rather high requirements for the quality of lighting, but not in front ones. The directivity pattern (DP) of the lampshade from the cups forms a cardioid one.

Lampshade made of plastic cups

Lampshade made of plastic spoons

A fan-shaped DN with a wide opening, very soft light in the central spot and uniform illumination in the lateral zone, makes it possible to achieve a lamp with a cone lampshade (or pineapple?) From bitten plastic spoons based on a PET bottle with a cut-off bottom, see Fig. Effective light softening is achieved by the fact that the spoons act as translucent bowl-shaped reflectors. They are glued to the bottle and glued together with silicone glue, assembly or glue gun. Cyanoacrylate glue is also suitable, but it must be taken thick. Cheap "superglue" is very fluid, drips will spread everywhere and spoil the glossy surfaces of the spoons.

Bottles alone can also make good lampshades. For example, a sphere from their bottoms, fastened with a stapler, as well as stoparis (see the mini-master class in the figure) will give a cardioid DN; however, in comparison with the "settled" it is noticeably distorted. But in the country or in the back rooms, a chandelier from the bottoms is quite useful.

Bottle bottoms lampshade

Lampshade-hedgehog from plastic bottles

Romantic soft light, somewhat spotty, but within the acceptable range, will give a shade-ball made of bottle "hedgehogs"; however, they look more like blossoming sea anemones - anemones, see the photo on the right. The "hedgehogs" themselves are easy to make: bottoms are cut off from the bottles, the side walls are cut to the scar before narrowing into the neck, the strips are wrapped around the neck, glued with glue droplets and, for reliability, are fixed with threads or tape. However, to assemble the "hedgehogs" into the shade, you need a transparent spherical base. It is obtained in a similar way to a lampshade made of threads (see below), only the threads are taken from white nylon or propylene not thicker than number 20, but instead of PVA - a colorless water-based acrylic varnish.

A very uniform illumination makes it possible to achieve, and is very decorative, a lampshade made of leaves cut from bottles, see fig. It is assembled on a temporary spherical mandrel, see below.

DIY plastic leaf lampshade

A step-by-step master class in this case is also simple, but requires patience, accuracy, some additional tools and, possibly, material:

• We are preparing a soldering iron with a bronze nickel-plated tip (for dry soldering) for 40 W or with a regular copper one for 25 W;
• If the sting is copper, you will also need a Teflon (fluoroplastic) tape 0.06 mm 60-80 mm wide;
• Cut out the leaves from the bottle. From the point of view of lighting, pale green or light brown are better;
• With a soldering iron tip (copper - through the film), slightly melt the edges of the leaves, otherwise they will look unnatural;
• With the tip of the sting (copper also through the film) we "draw" the veins;
• With the plane of the sting between the veins, with light touches, we slightly melt the surface so that it is, like real leaves, not entirely smooth;
• Again, with the tip of the sting deeper, but without piercing, we bring out the central vein. It is convenient to do this on a soft heat-resistant backing (coarse calico or felt in several layers will go);
• We put the thread in the central vein and melt it by "screwing" the side roller onto the hollow;
• We form complex leaves, if required, by tying the threads of the leaves;
• Having spread the leaves on a film (now any), we saturate the threads with acrylic varnish from a pipette. When it dries, the foliage is ready for assembly.

The procedure for making New Year's decorations and lamps from threads has been described many times in Runet. For example, a video:

Video: DIY twine / thread lampshade

It can only be noted here that, firstly, threads for a medium-sized lampshade will need at least 100 m. Secondly, it makes no sense to use balloons as mandrels: after 10-20 turns under the pressure of stretched threads, the ball protrudes where it is not necessary, and the end result is something unfeasible. Thirdly, it is also not necessary to soak the threads in flour paste in advance: the product will turn out to be fragile and not moisture resistant.

It is best to use a tightly inflated sports ball tube or a durable silicone beach ball inflated from a pump through a nipple as a mandrel when making a thread lampshade. The mandrel is lubricated several times with petroleum jelly (lanolin), rubbing it thoroughly with your hands. It won't hurt the ball in any way; on the contrary, it will prolong his life.

Tool for making a lampshade from threads

Further, the thread is wound on the mandrel, continuously stretching through the simplest device, see Fig. This mini - impregnating bath, so as not to accidentally crawl, topple over and poured glue on something, is fixed on the table with tape; convenient two-sided. The glass is first pierced with a needle and thread, then PVA or acrylic varnish is poured and wound, tightening as needed. Usually the thread goes through the bath itself, because glue until dry is a good lubricant.

When winding, do not forget to leave a window for the cable and cartridge inlet - the strength of the cut thread ball drops sharply! A day after its completion, air is released from the mandrel and pulled out through the same window. It is glued to the threads, "vaseline", very rarely and not firmly: you can tear it off by slightly pulling or pressing it with your finger, and the product remains intact.

Note: instead of threads, you can use jute, sisal or propylene twine, but there is a better use for it in the lampshade, see below.

And where is it all?

Plafonds-balls, see fig., Are suitable in the nursery, because form an even soft light. The one on the left is made from paper cupcake wrappers - based on a thread ball. Threads - propylene or thin nylon colorless; the binder is acrylic varnish. White in a spool, after impregnation with varnish, such threads become almost transparent. Lampshade-ball made of cups (on the right) is not so interesting, because the dishes are all the same, but it is also more difficult to tear it apart.

Chandelier lampshades for nursery

A hemisphere lampshade made of the same cups is more suitable for the hallway, see fig. on right. With a low lamp power (more precisely, its luminous flux), it will give a bright spot at the bottom and acceptable illumination of the rest of the room, so you can use a little heating incandescent lamps of 15-30 watts. The fact is that the resource of economy lamps and LED lamps decreases sharply with frequent switching on / off. And a low-power incandescent lamp, especially in the hallway, where the light is not constantly on, will not noticeably increase the cost of electricity.

Chandelier lampshade in the hallway

A special case is the kitchen. The lighting requirements are set out in the previous article. But the lampshade in the kitchen gets dirty quickly, and the soot eats in hard. Let's remember: bright light promotes condensation and bituminization of vapors of organic compounds. This is the deposition of soot; the lampshade, on the other hand, is the brightest.

The simplest solution is a disposable paper lampshade. "Bump", as in pos. 1 fig. below, will give just the character of lighting that is needed in the kitchen, but you will have to do it again quite often. It is better to mold the papier-mâché lampshade, pos. 2. After varnishing with acrylic varnish, it can be gently washed with a cloth and dishwashing detergent, and painted with a blacksmith's patina, it will look like forged handmade and certainly not like some old newspapers.

Lampshades for kitchen lamps

And here is the lampshade in pos. 3 - juice straws glued to the bottle - an example of a bad solution. Such a lampshade will give an ideal light for the kitchen (the straws work partly as light guides), but it gets dirty quickly, you cannot clean it properly, and the product is laborious. It is better to make plastic reflectors of kitchen lamps for local lighting from reusable plastic dishes, pos. 4, it is quite durable, inexpensive and easy to clean. Cups with handles and saucers, of course, are a matter of design decision, but bowls without a pattern are what you need.

How to make papier-mâché?

Papier-mâché is a material useful for many purposes, so let's recall the technology for its preparation and use:

• Old newspapers, or, better, the cheapest unsticked writing paper, are torn to shreds about the size of a thumbnail. You will need a lot of paper!
• Fill a suitable dish with scraps to the top; say, a liter glass jar.
• In steep boiling water, dilute 1 / 3-1 / 5 by volume of PVA.
• While the solution has not cooled down, pour the paper pulp into it.
• Stir until the paper completely creeps into the fibers.
• After cooling, papier-mâché is poured into consumable dishes or immediately put into action. You can store the paper paste for up to 6 months. in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed container.
• Prepare the next portion in the same way.
• If the paper paste immediately goes into action, you can add the next one to the pasted area of ​​the mandrel, while the previous one is still wet and wrinkled with your fingers. If you add it dry, the product, when dry, can disintegrate into "cakes".
• The workpiece is ready for varnishing, painting, etc. after a week of drying at a temperature not lower than 22 degrees. The air temperature around the workpiece must be the same on all sides! Do not dry on a battery, convector, in direct sunlight or an infrared radiator!

Tubules

Lampshades and shades from tube sections are most often made for bedside lamps and lamps in the bedroom: due to their circular cross-section, there is always a significant refraction of light in them, which can be very intimate and romantic, but for constant and working lighting, in most cases it is undesirable. Lampshades made of translucent tubes also give a rather spotty light, see fig. if you use pieces of thin transparent PVC hose, then the play of light will turn out to be very beautiful, but you do not need to look at it for a long time, and even more so you don’t need to read or sew in this light.

Tubular lampshade

Paper and other fibrous materials refract light very little, but tubes made of them are fragile in themselves. For example, a lamp shade made of newspaper tubes is best done on a frame, see below: just because they wrinkle easily, thin paper tubes are an excellent material for weaving. As for the lighting properties, paper, especially clean paper, is excellent.

Lampshade on the frame

Now let's get down to lampshades that fit anywhere, incl. and for a table lamp that can be pushed onto the floor with your elbow. In addition, we will set it as a condition that the lampshade casing can be washed, cleaned, changed at will. Therefore, we do not touch glass or solid rigid plastic lampshades; Moreover, you cannot make them at home yourself. That is, we will deal with lampshades on a frame with soft sheathing.

About fabrics for lampshade

It is preferable to sew the decorative light cover of the lampshade from fabric with fleecy threads, i.e. natural. Due to diffraction on smooth synthetic filaments, light penetrating through such a lampshade can be harsh. It is not difficult to choose a fabric for a lampshade by eye: through the sample, smoothly turning it, look at some compact bright light source; preferably LED, because it gives the most coherent, i.e. orderly, light. The selection criterion is simple: the less moiré stripes are observed from different angles of view, the better the fabric.

About restoring the lampshade

The frame of the lampshade is quite laborious and technologically complex, so first you need to look around the farm: is there a lampshade from an old lamp lying around somewhere. It will be easier to straighten it, fix it and update the lampshade with a new cover than making a frame from scratch.

Homemade tool for measuring large diameters

The discovered "basket" may turn out to be quite pretentious, and in order to construct patterns (see below), it will be necessary to accurately measure its diameters in several places. In this case, a homemade caliper from 3 wooden slats and a pair of drawing squares will help out. Of course, he will not give the accuracy of the factory bar, but the achievable (+/– 1 mm) is enough for cutting and sewing work. And an idea of ​​the capabilities of such a tool is given in Fig.

The measurement procedure is 2-step: marks are made with a pencil on the sponges where they touch the object, and then the size between the marks is taken with a tape measure. In order for the movable sponge to slide smoother, and, accordingly, the measurement was more accurate, the rubber bands supporting it must be placed with a fluoroplastic film. To measure small diameters, the jaws are turned over with angles outward.

Building a pattern

Now we remove the required diameters: the lower and upper hoops (D1 and D11 in pos. 1 in the figure), the largest and smallest on the belts (D2, D6, D10), in the places of bends, i.e. where the curvature of the generator changes sign (D4, D8) and at the kinks (D5). We take the rest more or less evenly between the obligatory ones.

Building a shade pattern

The cross-sections of the pattern of 6 wedges will be, taking into account the tightening of the fabric, equal to half of the measured diameters (pos. 2). If the wedges of the finished sleeve are expected to be larger or smaller, the proportion of the diameter in the corresponding pattern diameter is changed proportionally. But it is too early to cut and sew.

In the same place at pos. 2 shows that the seam allowance is not geometrically completely similar to the template. In knot I (kink inward), this is still half the trouble: you can sew on a drawstring sleeve and tighten the seam with a cord. If the decor of the lampshade involves ruffles, frills, scallops, etc., then perhaps it should be so: small folds will fall into place, and the cord will not be visible at the break in the contour.

However, on the contour shelf (node ​​II), whatever one may say, it is in no way possible to give an allowance so that the seam does not "leave". In higher geometry, it is proved why, but we do not need to get into this jungle: we simply cut the paper template according to the "capricious" diameters on the breaks and shelves (pos. 3).

Cover sewing

Now, how to sew a lampshade according to our patterns? First, separate parts of the sleeve are sewn; in this case, bottom, middle and top. Then, to the widest belt (bottom), the largest adjacent part in width is sewn (here - the middle). Further, in the same way, the 2 parts next in width are sewn together, etc. The bottom line is that the shortest transverse seam (we have Seam 2) is sewn last. In this sample, after sewing the bottom with the middle, the top is sewn to them. The sewing of the cover is completed by trimming excess allowances, except for the lower and upper folds. The edges must be hemmed.

Covering the frame

The next stage is to fit the cover onto the frame. Here the machine can be sent to the closet: the work is exclusively manual. Step by step, covering the lamp shade frame with a cover is done as follows:

• The cover is turned inside out (that it was sewn from the inside out, probably, and so it is understandable) and put on the frame;
• Wrap inward and sew the upper lapel;
• Pull and trim the fabric to the first fold (here - D8). If there was no hoop in the original sample, it must be installed in advance, see below;
• The fabric is tied to the edges of the frame from top to bottom alternately, and to the hoop at the bend;
• Repeat paragraphs. 3 and 4 until the next bend (now D5), and so on until the bottom hoop;
• The bottom lapel is folded up and stitched.

How the simplest frame of a lampshade of a table lamp or floor lamp works can be seen in pos. 1 fig. The pendant for the chandelier differs in that the ring will be at the top, the stretch marks from it will go to the upper hoop, and then additional holes are needed in the ring for attaching the suspension.

Lampshade frame device

The ring is cut from a well-soldered and sufficiently strong sheet metal (bronze, brass, galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.4-2 mm) or durable plastic from 1 mm. A computer disk will do, for the E10 cartridge you only need to drill holes for the braces and fasteners. The main dimensions of the ring for the E27 cartridge with fastening with union shaped nuts (pos. 3) are given in pos. 2. But it is unacceptable to make a ring for fastening into the gap between the body and the clamp of the chuck with the skirt (pos. 4)! Such cartridges are only fastened with a threaded union in the lid!

How the braces are attached to the ring is shown in pos. 5: their blanks are not crocheted to the end, inserted into the mounting holes and gently squeezed with pliers. Then, if the ring is metal, they are soldered (see below). If it is plastic, fix it with drops of superglue or silicone.

Solder assembly

Frame parts are made of plastic steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm or bicycle spokes. The latter are much stronger, do not rust and do not require painting, but they must be bent carefully and they are soldered worse. To solder the frame you will need:

• Soldering iron for at least 65 W (better than 100-150 W).
• 6% phosphoric acid solution. Sold, for soldering, in radio stores and construction. Phosphoric acid is also available as food supplement E338 in the form of colorless, hygroscopic needle-like crystals.
• Flux paste (soldering gel), always with borax.
• Thin, 0.15-0.35 mm, bare copper wire. You can take the veins from the electrical wire.
• Solder POS-30 or POS-40. They are refractory (which is why a powerful soldering iron is needed), but much stronger than POS-61 and other low-melting ones.

Note: Phosphoric acid of medium strength, highly toxic and / or corrosive vapors does not emit. But all the same, when working with it, you need to take precautions - wear protective glasses and gloves (household latex gloves will go).

The key procedures for assembling the frame by soldering are shown in Fig.

Brazing steel parts

The brazed steel frame is assembled in stages as follows:

• The ends of the linear workpieces are kept in acid for 3-4 minutes (pos. 1), and then rinsed in water (pos. 2). Water needs at least 1 liter, and after 4-5 washes it must be changed.
• If the soldering is in the middle or the part is bent, soak a clean white rag in acid and wrap the soldering point with it. They hold it for about half a minute, then rinse the rags in acid, wrap the soldering point with it again, and so on until the total time of exposure to the acid on the metal reaches the same 3-4 minutes. After acid treatment, the part is then washed under running water for 1-2 minutes.
• Without touching the treated places with bare fingers, the frame is completely assembled without soldering: the places of the rations end to end are tight, but not tight, i.e. with intervals between the turns of 1.5-2 mm, they are wrapped with copper wire, pos. 3 and 4, and apply 2-3 drops of flux paste to each joint. Places of rations at the crosshairs of parts are wrapped with 2-3 turns of copper wire crosswise and fluxed with 1-2 drops.
• Semi-dry, i.e. without a hanging drop of solder, the soldering iron tip is used to heat the rations until the flux spreads over all the cracks, pos. 5. It is not necessary to heat the flux to a boil and the appearance of vapors. Also, the end result will be better if the flux is heated with a separate soldering iron with a dry bronze nickel-plated tip.
• A drop of solder is collected, applied to the place of soldering (pos. 6) and heated until it flows everywhere, like the flux used to be. The excess solder hanging at the bottom is carefully removed with a soldering iron tip. It is impossible to apply unmelted solder in the form of a flexible wire, and refractory solders are produced mainly by rods.

Cloth or twine?

Propylene packing twine and paper tubes have good lighting properties. If the lampshade is made from twine or from newspaper tubes, it will give an even soft light, and complex cutting and sewing work disappears. But in the frame for a wicker lampshade, firstly, there must be at least 10-12 edges, evenly spaced around the circumference.

Note: if the frame is of a simple form, then only 3-4 ribs can be load-bearing (steel) in it. Let the rest be at least made of straw, they are glued to the upper and lower hoops.

Secondly, to get the rims at the top and bottom, respectively. train them either do double in height, with an interval of 2-3 cm, or attach strips of thin metal or hard plastic of the same width to them. The headbands are needed for decorative reasons: they are wrapped in a solid one with twine or a tube, and if the headband is double, weaving can be started with a figure eight. The entire side surface is braided like a basket.

Stained glass lampshade

Stained glass lampshades form the luminous flux mainly by refraction, therefore they are more suitable for the living room.

stained glass lampshades and shades

Fragments of the stained-glass window are collected from rhinestones, faceted or cabochons. A stained-glass lampshade is assembled on a heat-resistant frame (for example, a steel bucket) using the tiffany technique. But compared to a stained-glass window for a window or door here, since the connections of the elements are not solid, but point-like, there are significant differences:

• Only strong refractory solder is used, the same as for the lamp shade frame, as well as flux with a drill.
• Framing rhinestones before soldering is done only from a special copper foil - foliage - 3-15 mm wide, depending on the width of the crystal rim.
• The protective film is removed from the foliage immediately before applying it to the crystal; Do not touch the outer (soldered) surface of the foil with your bare hands!
• Also, you cannot put off soldering the rhinestones wrapped in foliage until tomorrow: the copper will have time to oxidize, and the connections will turn out to be fragile.
• Upon completion of the soldering and thorough washing of the flux residues (with a rag with alcohol; then - with distilled water), the solders are copper-plated by applying a thick blue solution of copper sulfate with a brush.
• The remains of vitriol are washed off under running water. You cannot rub with a brush or even cotton wool, because the copper film on the solder is very thin.

A small surprise - about New Year's chandeliers and lampshades

New Year is coming soon, it's time to make Christmas decorations and holiday decorations. And - a New Year's chandelier. Chandelier? Yes. Remember how the festive mood drops if an overhead light is turned on in a room with a Christmas tree. Certainly no, but New Year's lighting should correspond to the spirit of the holiday. We will postpone the lighting technology until serious days, for a few evenings nothing from the festive light will happen to us. Business, it's time, but fun is an hour.

Christmas chandeliers

Usually, a New Year's chandelier is a Christmas wreath attached to the chandelier in the living room with light bulbs woven into it. But an experienced electrician would not need to do electrical work at a height in the pre-holiday bustle. And what if there is a Christmas tree in the nursery, where is the paper chandelier? Then you can at least buy inexpensive plastic blanks for Christmas balls, a garland with colorless bulbs, stick them into balls, and hang such a heap (on the left in the figure) where it is more convenient.

If the design of the "everyday" chandelier is suitable, you can screw candle lamps into it and decorate with the same balls or, for example, painted cones, on the right in the same place. Or you can try a little and make a New Year's jasmine chandelier with your own hands, as in the video below. New Year is New Year, whatever you say.

When there is a desire to change the decor in the apartment and add a little originality to it, start with the little things. Try changing the lampshade and you will be amazed at the transformation of your family nest.

And if you manage to find an original model that differs from analogues, then the changes will impress not only you, but also your guests.

True, unique lampshades cost a lot of money, because the piece works of eminent masters cannot be bought for a penny.

But no one bothers you to create your own unique masterpiece from cheap, and sometimes even waste materials, which will look much better than the samples presented in the store.

All you need is simple materials, a bit of patience and a flight of imagination, and we will tell you how to make a lampshade with your own hands.

Materials (edit)

You can create a masterpiece from everything that you have at hand: fabric, paper, threads, twine, wire, a plastic bottle, beads or beads.

In general, absolutely everything will do, even what you usually send in the trash bag.

Don't believe me? Just see the photo of the lampshade.

Frame

If you have a frame from an old lampshade, then this is just great.

However, you should not be upset if one was not found, because you can create a frame yourself from ordinary wire.

Copper, aluminum, steel - anything that you can combine into a single structure will do.

The metal frame of a classic lampshade consists of three rings and six bars between them. The small ring is a holder that connects to the larger ring with three straps.

The same, in turn, is bridged to the last ring. The following photos will help you figure out the design.

From fabric

When a frame for a lampshade is available, the easiest way to create your masterpiece is to wrap the base in fabric. To do this, you will need:

• paper (newspaper);
• scissors;
• the cloth;
• chalk or pencil;
• threads.

Wrap the frame with newspaper in such a way as to form a pattern out of it. Then transfer the resulting shape to the fabric using chalk, adding 1 cm per seam on each side.

Make a pattern, cut off the edges and sew the sides, forming a cover on the base of the future lampshade. We fold the upper and lower edges of the "cover" in such a way as to close the rings of the frame and fix it with a seam.

Note!

Voila, your floor lamp shade is almost complete. It remains to add a few raisins to your taste, giving it uniqueness.

From threads

How to make a lampshade when there is no frame? Easy peasy.

Take a balloon without drawings, glue, thread, marker and start creating.

First you need to inflate the balloon and mark the upper and lower boundaries of your future masterpiece on it. Then take the threads and wrap the ball with them, trying not to protrude beyond the marked contours.

Apply glue diluted with water 1: 1 to each layer of thread. When the thickness of the wound thread satisfies you, fix the cut edge and hang the ball to dry. After 3-4 hours, the threads will dry. Then pierce the ball and carefully detach it from the walls of the finished lampshade.

Additional charm to the thread lampshade can be given by leaves and flower petals woven between the layers of threads.

Note!

The ball decorated with sparkling drops of beads also looks original. In general, watch and get inspired.

From paper

Plain sheets of office paper, glossy magazines, cheap newspaper, unnecessary book or ordinary notebook, paper towel or napkin - these are all future lampshades.

It doesn't matter if there is a frame or not, the main thing is that there are scissors, glue and paper. One thousand and one versions of such lampshades can be described with the words "cut and stick".

The main thing is not to forget a few simple rules:

• a paper lampshade is safest to use together with economy bulbs, which heat up much less than incandescent bulbs;
• the diameter of the lampshade for lamps should be large so that the paper does not heat up unnecessarily;
• for a bright room, you can make a lampshade of thick paper, but for a dark one you need a thin one that transmits light well;
• be careful with the color. For example, red or yellow paper will add warmth to the room, green and blue - cold.

Well, that's all. Charge yourself with new ideas, arm yourself with improvised means and forward, to light changes that bring warmth and comfort to your home.

Note!

DIY lampshade photo