How to make a ceiling screed yourself?

The process of laying outdoor coatings in the apartment is quite often resting in the problem with the irregularities of the floor. To solve such problems and there is a floor screed. It is worth noting that it is from the screed and you need to begin the floor transformation process. The screed will eliminate unevenness, and besides this will add strength.

At the moment, the cement-sand mix (CPS) or special finished mixtures are the most common ways of screed.

So let's start making a ptchick

Before applying the CPC, it is necessary to clean the surface from garbage and pollution and be sure to progress. The choice of the type of primer is made depending on the type and state of the treated surface.

Then, for the preparation of the surface, special material is applied - primer. Depending on the porosity of the surface, it is diluted with water or applied undiluted.

Now the most important is determining the zero level, that is, the highest surface area. From this place, lighthouses are exhibited, between which it is recommended to tighten the levels (rope, fishing line), after which it will be possible to clearly appreciate the height of the future screed, and accordingly the required volume of material.

To facilitate work, especially on large areas, loader guides are used, which allow you to fill the CPS strips and prevent the mixture spreading. There are special guides on sale, but for these purposes, it is quite possible to adapt to both metal pipes, such as metal pipes or boards, which do not exceed the future screed. The recommended distance between them is 1 meter.

The CPS is applied in a checker, through one strip and is leveled to a trowel or a flat board.

After pouring, the guides are withdrawn, and the remaining bands are applied by the CPS. It is not recommended to make a screed of more than three centimeters high, otherwise it can be covered with cracks when frozen.

In the event that an increased load is planned for the future floor, it is necessary to reinforce the screed with a special grid. In addition, reinforcement allows you to increase the height of the screed to ten centimeters.

During the drying, the screed indoors should not be sharp drops of temperature and drafts. It is also necessary to remember that the complete drying of the screed occurs no earlier than 30-40 days.

Often in the process of arranging the ceiling screed after the finish painting and the installation of furniture discovers noticeable flaws, in the process of work are invisible: it is usually a gentle-eyed influx, irregularities and depressions. The main cause of such phenomena in changing the type of lighting is one, and when it is installed, and all interior items are installed, it is completely different.

In order for the ceiling screed after painting, it is recommended to take adher of some useful tips as soon as possible, beginners:

1. Alignment of the foundation. It is very important before putty work to do everything possible so that the base of the ceiling is smooth. Depending on the type of ceiling plate, it can be a solid plaster, smoothing the drops, especially in the area of \u200b\u200bthe seams, or the use of drywall. If we are talking about a more or less smooth solid panel, then after its complete cleaning from the old finish, you need to conduct a visual audit, in the process of which all local hills or bodies are better to cut off the hatchery. As a result, regardless of the methods of starting alignment, the base for putty should be as smooth as possible.

2. Features of putty.Even with a putty, such perfectly smooth bases such as plasterboard plates, some inexperienced masters managed to make extremely noticeable bumps and depressions. In order to avoid this, it is important to remember that the putty solution is not made thick and not liquid: the measure of plasticity should allow without special effort to stretch the solution on the surface with a uniform layer, a thickness of 0.5-2 mm. The work should be done with a spatula of a width of at least 40 cm: it is important to carefully dig up all the influx and boundaries, before they are frozen. Most often, it is the most frozen borders of individual areas of putty become the most important problem, since the grinding only eroses them, and after painting they are manifested in all their disgrace.

3. Light. It is very important during putty work to establish the most convenient lighting. It is desirable that it is possible to imitate the situation that will be in the course of operation of the room: it is due to the angle and side of the ceiling light. Sometimes it uses the temporary installation of the chandelier: it is removed before grinding. Another method perfectly helped in putty works - lighting the ceiling by the spotlight, at an angle from one of the corners, preferably from the window. This makes it possible to detect even the slightest defects of the ceiling even at the stage of his decoration. To do this, there are special building spotlights installed on the poles, along the length of the corresponding room altitude.

During the work of repair work in homes with a dranched ceiling before the hosts, it is often the question of how to better repair such a ceiling, because the whots and clay do it seems to be taught and you want to give the room more modern design. In such a situation, the most effective method is a ceiling of plasterboard, it can be closed with an unreliable clay base, creating a bridgehead for its creative experiments. But sometimes such a way is not for everyone to pocket, and not always relevant. For example, if we are talking about a summer house, investing large finances in the interior decoration is not always appropriate. In such a situation, the most suitable option is to make a screed directly along Dranke. It will be cheaper at least twice, compared with the option of plasterboard ceiling, and better than just fake flaws and whitening "Dedovsky" way.

Ceiling screed from duncar includes several operations:

1. Washing out old bliss. To do this, a bucket with warm water, a painlism brush and a well-known share of diligence are necessary. It is best to produce work with a specially harvested "goat", it is quite suitable for an old kitchen table. The stepladder in such a work is very uncomfortable, as it does not make it possible to put a bucket with water, and it must often be rearranged.
2. Removal of fastening clay fragments. In the course of the washes of blinking, using a hard small spatula, check all unreliable fragments of the ceiling - everything that "moves" should be considered.
3. Surface primer. For this operation, the soil will fit deep penetration, while the primer does not need to save, it must be good to impregnate the surface of the ceiling.
4. Alignment of the ceiling, gluing a painting mesh. After a complete drying of the primer, with the help of a drill with a nozzle, or manually, to mix the solution of the starting putty - it is quite suitable for the Rotband or isogeps. Then, with a wide spatula, apply the resulting mixture to the surface of the ceiling, aligning it. Immediately on the crude putty glue the painting grid 5x5 mm, moving it with a spatula.
5. Finish spacure. After a complete drying of the starting layer (at least a day) we produce the finish putty of the ceiling. This will suit the same inexpensive Satengips or Oldness. The putty needs to be produced at least two layers, when you need to give well drying the previous layer before applying the following.
6. Grinding, painting. After complete drying of the finish layer of putty, it is necessary to go to the painting sandpaper and then paint. It is better to use the water-emulsion paint that we apply a roller.

Before engaged in the decorative ceiling decoration, its surface must be made perfectly smooth. Only in this case, the quality of work will be high. First of all, this condition must be observed at the ceiling overlap made from precast concrete slabs that are not always perfectly installed. Therefore, we first make a cigarette of the ceiling, and only then go to decorative design.

The answer to the question is why the cobblestone is needed is quite simple. Reinforced concrete plates are massive overlap elements, which even with the help of equipment is difficult to mount for one level, therefore, as a rule, there are some differences between them. Their value depends on the quality of the floor mounting: the better the specialists and their work, the smaller there will be the difference in the levels of slab bottoms.

Of course, you can not save funds on your own dwelling and call the team of specialists who quickly and efficiently make the ceiling tie. But if you explore all the nuances of this process, you can try to do it and with your own hands.

Before proceeding with the ceiling surface screed, you need to decide with the way you will use. There are two types of cigarette surfaces: "wet" and "dry". The first method involves the use of solutions or mixtures. It can be a concrete chatting of the ceiling, made from cement mortar.

The second method requires the use of sheet materials, such as plasterboard, plywood, fiberboard or chipboard. How to determine the desired way to perform a screed with your own hands? Of the several criteria it is worth paying attention to one main. To do this, measure the value of the difference at the stove butt. If it exceeds 5 cm, then the screed is wet in the way, since the thickness of the applied plaster will exceed the normalized value. It is fraught with the fact that under the weight of its own weight, the plastering layer will simply not stand and fall, and this can already lead to human injury.

In addition, the large thickness of the plaster may exceed the normalized load on which the overlap was calculated, which will also lead to negative consequences. To all this is not allowed, it is worth contacting the dry tie. Of course, she also has its drawbacks. For example, this method "steals" at the premises is quite a lot of height, so without that low rooms will become even lower.

The plaster is a frozen concrete mix, the process of application of which is quite time-consuming, especially on the ceiling surface. But such a way of chatting does not lose its relevance, because sometimes it is the only way to create a smooth surface. In addition, you can plaster with any coating: from wood, concrete or metal. But in any case, it is necessary to conduct preparatory work. They include several stages:

1. Purification of the surface from contamination, for example, from mold or other fungal spots that need to be disinfected;
2. Removal of an old coating in the form of paint, whitewings, etc.;
3. Primer concrete surface with strengthening mixtures;
4. For wooden and metal structures, installation of the reinforcement grid is required.

Then go to the installation of lighthouses, for which the ceiling is then plastering. Using a painting cord, it is necessary to note the zero level, according to which the lowest ceiling surface mark is determined. She will be the first lighthouse. The rest are installed every 30-50 cm on plaster stamps. The height of the lighthouses should not be more the thickness of the plaster, that is, 5 cm.

After installing beacons, you can begin to shock. To do this, it is necessary to make a working solution based on plaster, cement or lime. Then follow such an easy instruction shown in the video:

1. Apply the first layer of spray without alignment;
2. Distribute several primer layers, gradually aligning plaster;
3. After applying the last layer, remove stamps with lighthouses and fill the residue remaining from them;
4. With the help of the rules applied along, across and diagonally, checking the surface of the surface (excessive plaster cut off, and in the missing places, on the contrary, another solution is added);
5. Halfury to close the inner angles and places for docking the ceiling with walls;
6. Apply the final thoroughly aligned layer to create a smooth surface.

When applying plaster, be sure to make sure that defects in the form of shells or pits are not formed. After a draft screed, you can apply the finish coating in the form of a putty.

A dry ceiling screed can be made of drywall, which serves as a qualitative alternative to a long and time consuming method using plaster.

As can be seen in the photo, with the help of plasterboard sheets, designers carry out various ideas and designs in the interior design, which is an undoubted advantage.

In addition, simplicity and speed of installation can also be attributed to the advantages of a dry screed. The sequence of work includes only three stages:

1. The ceiling surface markup, when the zero level is made on the walls, angles and framework are placed, and the layout of the plasterboard sheets is determined so that their shift is equal to the sequencing step;
2. Mounting frame design - stage, which assumes fastening guides, which can be made of wood (mounted on self-tapping screw or direct suspensions) or metal (fastening is carried out only on direct suspensions);
3. Cutting and mounting sheets of plasterboard according to the drawing.

Catching the ceiling with your own hands, despite its labor intensity. The main thing is to comply with the stages of installation and recommendations of specialists. Then the ceiling with its flattened and beauty will only emphasize the interior design.

The perfectly smooth surface of the ceiling is a prerequisite that must be respected before the decorative finish of this surface so that the quality of the work carried out is high. This is especially true of ceiling floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. The accuracy of the ceiling is achieved after the dry cutting of the ceiling is performed.

The perfectly smooth surface of the ceiling is a prerequisite that must be respected before the decorative finish of this surface.

The difficulty of equalizing the surface of the reinforced concrete slabs (unlike other) is that most often they lie in the same plane, but there are significant differences between them.

The difficulty of equalizing the surface of the reinforced concrete slabs (unlike other) is that most often they lie in the same plane, but there are significant differences between them. In any newspaper you can meet ads in which professional builders for a certain fee will do everything quickly and efficiently. But if there is a desire to save, then you can try to do everything with your own hands, based on the recommendation of specialists. In this case, the described nuances are suitable for almost any ceilings.

There are two ways to align (tie) ceiling:

The "wet" screed involves the use of special solutions and mixtures, and "dry" - alignment of the ceiling surface with a sheet material. This can be attributed to:

• plasterboard;
• phaneur;
• Fiberboard, chipboard and many others.

There are several criteria for choosing the method of the ceiling screed, but the main thing is that if the distributions on the joints are more than 50 mm, then the "dry" method of alignment should be chosen, since the thickness of the plastering layer will exceed the permissible norm and during operation can disappear, causing serious injury. man.

It should also be noted that the "dry" chatting of the ceiling significantly reduces the height of the room, which is not very profitable for low ceilings. In this case, it is more expedient for the alignment to use putty (under the condition of small drops).

To work, you will need to prepare the following tools and devices:

When preparing for a screed, from the ceiling remove the layer of the previous finishing material, whitewings, putty.

• spatulas of different sizes;
• aluminum rule;
• metal smooth iron or grater;
• plaster comb;
• plaster falcon;
• plastic capacity of at least 18 l;
• drill with a nozzle mixer;
• spongy grout.

Before proceeding directly to align the surface of the ceiling with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare it, especially if it is not a newly built house. From the ceiling remove the layer of the previous finishing material, whitewings, putty, etc.

In order for the work to be moving quickly and not too tiring, it is worth using the recommendations of the specialists:

The stucco is removed by a sharp spatula, periodically pushing it.

For convenience, it is possible to lengthen the spatula handle, screwing to it a wooden or plastic stick.

The plaster first must be moisturized from the sponge or a foam sponge.

It is much easier to remove a layer of water-level paint if you add a few drops of iodine into the water.

The most difficult thing is the case with water paint. Here it will be necessary to use either a drill with a wire brush, or a special bow, which can be purchased in any construction store.

• the layer of old material is removed not only from the surface itself, but also from interputric seams. To do this, take pickaxes, hammer and spatula. It is necessary to remove only the lagging and cracked part of the material;
• if there is a fungus on the surface, then it is necessary to pay attention to this problem. Otherwise, the new surface will suffer the same fate. First, the surface is treated with an antiseptic, which is either bought in the store, or is made with your own hands, and then it is drunk to increase the grip with the material.

The chatting of the ceiling begins with your own hands with the elimination of the largest defects with a coarser-grained putty for draft work. You can use the pass, which is impregnated in a solution of such a putty and get a kind of sponge for embedding the slots. So that the joints between the stoves are cracked, they are reinforced by a special grid, which is pressed into the layer of putty.

Before applying the second layer of putty, it is necessary to the plaster comb "to free" the first, without waiting for its frost.

After all of the above described, it is embarked on the shtlocking of the entire surface of the ceiling, for which the prepared mixture is applied to the base and thoroughly smash the spatula. The putty mixture is applied in the direction from itself, a thickness of no more than 20 mm. Further, the layer is rareled by the rule of zigzag movements to himself. Before applying the second layer, it is necessary for the plastering ridge "Purchase" the first, without waiting for it to froze.

Only in two days can be processed to apply the next layer.

The combing of the previous layer allows you to make the surface rough to increase the grasp of materials.

The lapse of the layer maintenance time is determined by the level of humidity. If the room is dry and warm, then the plaster is frozen very quickly, and high humidity contributes to the uniform solidification of the material.

It is necessary to take into account such a moment that during the work, the air humidity increases, therefore, the plaster will dry not quickly. It is not necessary to change the level of humidity with an artificial way, since layers of plastering should be stuck in the same conditions in which they were applied.

The concrete base of the floor is currently, perhaps the most common and in residential, and in industrial construction. It is suitable for almost any finish coatings or maybe, after appropriate processing, operated and independently. Its main advantages, subject to filling technology - high strength, resistance to destruction, durability of use. It is not surprising that when conducting private construction or under repair in an apartment in the overwhelming majority of cases, housing owners stop at such a field of floor arrangement.

Is it worth inviting builders' specialists, or a concrete band screed with their own hands is a completely affordable process for the average housing owner? The present publication is devoted to these questions.

Types of concrete tie

Concrete talls of the floor can have a different design, perform a few different technologies and target various purposes.

• So, they can serve solely for alignment of the floor performed before mounting the finishing coating. Powerful ties serve as a reliable base in the rooms where elevated mechanical loads are envisaged. They can perform both the functions of providing the required thermobalansa, speaking, for example, powerful heat accumulators in the "warm floor" systems. Schedules often cover communication systems. Maybe they are used And in order to create a specific slope in the premises where it is necessary.
• Concrete screeds in the number of layers are distinguished:

- They can be single-layer, that is, poured simultaneously to the entire calculated height. This is usually applied in industrial, economic or utility non-residential premises, where there are no higher requirements for the pulmonary of the floor.

- Multilayer ties are poured into several techniques. Typically, the first layer serves as a gross base, and the upper creates a flat surface for further work on the coating flooring. This approach is applied and in cases where the overall thickness of the required screed reaches too large, and it is more expedient to perform it in layers.

• There are screed and clutch with the basis:

- Related ties have direct contact with the base. Of course, with such a fill technology, the maximum homogeneity of materials and their high adhesion among themselves should be ensured. Such coatings are characterized by good strength qualities in terms of holding high mechanical loads. However, the condition of the surface layer will largely depend on the level of humidity of the base. Such ties are predominantly performed on dry ceiling plates on the floors of buildings.

- In the event that the base has no sufficient waterproofing, apply a splitting layer to a split layer. The layer from the waterproofing material (rubberoid, the polymer film, the coating composition) becomes an obstacle to the penetration of moisture from the bottom, and the contact of the contact itself does not have. With such a technology, the layer of the poured solution cannot be less than 30 mm and, as a rule, needs reinforcement.

Such technology is often used in the device screed on the soil, for example, in garages, sheds, basements, on the first floors of houses without basements. Resort to it and in rooms with elevated moisture levels.

- Where enhanced floor insulation is required or there is a need for sound insulation, floating screeds are used. In this case, the concrete solution is poured over the heaters of the insulation of one or another type. The screed turns into a completely independent design - a slab that is not associated with the base or with the walls of the room. The minimum fill thickness in this case is at least 50 mm, and the reinforcement of the screed becomes a prerequisite.

The humidity of such a screed is absolutely independent of the state of the base, it is achieved good insulating and effect. Disadvantages - excessively large thickness, and therefore - the load on the overlap. Typically, such ties are used only on the first floors of residential or utility buildings, especially if the fill is carried out on the soil.

• Screeds can be performed with a homogeneous solution or include certain fillers:

- Additive with a cement-sandy solution of polystyrene foam crumb substantially increases the thermal insulation quality of the coating.

Typically, such ties require a second, reinforcing and leveling layer.

- Where there are large thickness screeds or with elevated thermal insulation qualities, clamzite is added to the concrete solution.

The ceramzite concrete has sufficient strength, but for the flooring of some coatings, the fill of the facial layer from the conventional solution will be required. But the ceramic tile can be easy to lay directly on such a base.

Good performance features showing ties with micarimization fibrovolok. This technology allows you to dramatically increase the strength of the coating to mechanical loads, to stretching, bending.

Such ties typically do not give a T of Cordin, less defeated by shrinkage when frozen, they have less dust formation. They are great for floating floors.

• Floor can be performed on classical, wet technology, or by lusukh. Semi-dry screed - it's relatively new, and not all yet Ready to try it in practice. In addition, it requires special professionalism in the preparation of the mortar mixture, calculated, seal and resurrecting the solution. Most home builders prefer to apply proven "wet" technology, which will be discussed in the article in the future. However, if you are limited in time, consider the option with the invitation of specialists in laying a semi-dry screed. When choosing a contractor, pay attention to the technology used - the presence of a mechanized composition of the composition will ensure purity in the apartment. For example, the styling of a semi-short screed on the newest technology is engaged in the company Eurostroce 21 Century (WWW.PRestigeHouse Web site).

Concrete screed pouring solutions

It is quite natural that if necessary, pour a concrete screed first need to decide on the type of solution. This issue is possible some options.

According to the existing canons of SNiP, the minimum strength of a conventional concrete screed, regardless of the form of its further cladding, should be at least M-150 (the coating withstands the force of 150 kg / cm²). If used self-confined The bay composition, then the requirements are even higher - from M-200. In accordance with these requirements and should be selected.

1. The "classic" concrete solution used to fill the ordinary screed of the floor is considered a cement-sand mixture in proportion 1: 3. "Recipe" This - time-tested and fully justifies itself. However, there are several nuances, without taking into account which you can easily spoil the future screed:

• To prepare concrete, it is impossible to use the usual "washed" river sand, which has not passed special processing. The frozen surface will not be durable, starts to crumble over time, crumble and crack. The fact is that the grave is smoothed from the long exposure to water outlines, do not provide due Clutch. In this regard, much better career sand, e of its grave graves in the wrong shape. True, when choosing, you need to carefully watch so that it does not come across a large amount of clay inclusions - it will also reduce the strength of the screed.

The presence of a small amount of gravel component of the shallow fraction on the strength qualities of the screed will not affect. However, if a flat surface is required, it will be necessary to sift sand through a sieve.

• A very important condition for the strength and durability of the poured screed becomes the optimally selected amount of water. It is no secret that some novice home builders seeking to facilitate their work on the fill and recreak concrete, use excessive water, getting half aim, Easily spreading solution. These most, they laid down "mini slow motion" - at the exit, the screed will not have the required qualities.

First, an overly liquid solution will definitely give a strong shrinkage when solidified. Smooth surface, in accordance with the exposed level, in this case it is not necessary to expect. And secondly, the violation of the cement-water balance will necessarily reduce the strength qualities of the frozen concrete. The surface is obtained by loose, unrelated, with increased formation of dust.

There are certainly specifically the amount of water in concrete solution, but they usually adhere to technology of enterprises for the production of reinforced concrete structures and large mortar units. In terms of household conditions, they are more often relying on their own experience, intuition and common sense. In addition, accurately calculate the amount of water is very difficult and from the fact that it largely depends on the moisture content of the filler. Sand may be wet, heavy - and this is also water that will participate in the process of preparing the solution.

Ideally, the concrete solution should turn out to be dense, but rather plastic, so that when it is pouring and resurring into the thickness of the floor there is no air emptiness. You can approximately navigate the next ratio - a liter of water by five kilograms of cement-sand dry mixture.

It is important to choose the right "golden middle" so that the solution is and dense, and plastic

Mix the solution for the screed manually, with the help of a shovel, it is very difficult. It is better for this to use a concrete mixer or a building mixer sufficiently high power. Initially, stirred in the desired ratio of dry components (can be with a slight moisture), and then very carefully, portion, water is added.

An important condition for the quality of the future concrete screed is water purity. It is recruited using technical water with fat content, oils, petroleum residues, and the like. Also cannot be used to carry water to the place of kneading concrete dirty grinding containers.

2. The modern range of stroit materials presented on sale allows you to significantly simplify the process of filling the screed. For these purposes, ready-made dry building mixes can be applied.

Compared to the use of the usual cement-sand mixture, such technology has a number of advantages:

• According to the strength and other operating indicators, the screeds made of finished mixtures are not inferior to the usual concrete, and even exceed it in a number of parameters.
• For the preparation of the solution, there is no powerful technique or heavy manual work - enough mixer or even powerful electric drill (perforator) with an appropriate nozzle.
• There is no problem with the dosage of components in principle - everything is already provided by the manufacturer, and the master remains only clearly follow the instructions for preparing the solution.
• Many solutions prepared from such mixtures are much easier, which reduces the load on the overlap, reduces the cost of transportation and facilitates the lifting of materials on floors.

• It is possible to select the desired composition for specific operating conditions. So, there are solutions for coarse or leveling screeds, for a "warm floor" system and for rooms with high humidity. Special plasticizers or microfibers added to their composition not only increase the strength characteristics of the coating, but also reduce the deadlines for the full pouring of the screed, reducing the overall duration of construction work.
• What is very important for beginners - work with such compositions is simple and does not require particularly high skills. The main thing is to follow the recommendations on the fill technology, which are necessarily attached to any batch of material.

All this will be true only if a high-quality dry mixture is purchased. Alas, but in the building materials market in this segment there are a lot of fakes or base mixtures. It is best to choose compounds from authoritative manufacturers, be sure to check the certificate so as not to run into counterfeit. It is also important to test the flow of material - it is limited, and the overdue mixture can significantly lose its qualities.

The only drawback of a similar approach to the pouring of the screed is the price for it can be somewhat higher than with an independent making of the solution. Well, for amenities and quality you need to pay.

Prices for various types of screeds and bulk floors

Screeds and bulk floors

Preparation of the surface to the pouring of a concrete screed

The surface under the fill of the screed is prepared in different ways, based on the conditions:

• If the floor is laid on the ground, for example, in a private house without a soda or basement, then work is carried out in next sequence:

- The soil is selected to a depth of 500 mm.

Pillow pillow from sand, 100 mm thick, thoroughly tram. The gravel layer is embroidered on top of it.

- The coarse fill is made with concrete with the addition of ceramisit to height 150 — 200 mm- for insulation of the floor surface.

- After finding the foundation, it is necessarily waterproof - rubberoid or dense polyethylene film to exclude dumplings from the bottom. Waterproofing material must fail on the walls on the walls Height, slightly greater than the height of the planned screed. If necessary, on top can be filled with another layer of the insulation, and then pour a reinforced finish tie.

• In the apartments first need to remove the old tie. This is done for several reasons:

- First, the old screed does not guarantee integrity, as it can be derained, crack, and these deformations are transferred to the newly flooded layer.

- Secondly, you should not forget about the maximum permissible loads on the ceiling plates. So, in serial high-rise buildings of the old building, the allowable load of about 400 kg per square meter is static and 150 kg - dynamic. And the vest of one square meter of a concrete screed, 50 mm thick approaches 100 kg. Therefore, all works related to the thickening screed will have to be coordinated in design organizations. And far from the fact that such permission will be received.

- Thirdly, the height of the forces in apartments is usually not so significant so that it is possible to afford to raise the floor level.

The old screed is dismantled by a perforator, but very careful to prevent destruction or damage to the slab of the overlap. The remains of the slot concrete are taken out, and then careful cleaning and dedusting the surface.

• If a related screed is planned, then it is necessary to carefully clean the available recesses, partition the cracks or cracks to a width of at least 5 mm so that it can freely penetrate the concrete solution when filling.
• If the screed is floating or on a divided layer, then all flaws need to be repaired immediately. It is impossible to leave voids under the waterproofing layer - condensate can accumulate there, and these parts of high humidity can be accumulated, they will probably become a "problem place".

Separation of defects are made by repair makeup, epoxy putty or conventional concrete solution. In the case of large defects, you can sometimes apply the mounting foam.

The angles between the walls and the floor are especially checked and repaired - water from a concrete solution When pouring a screed can penetrate into the depths of overlaps or even give a leak to neighbors from below.

• Then, in any case, the surface of the overlap should be treated with penetrating primer. Such a measure and will be dedicated additionally the surface of the plate, and will improve its adhesion to the concrete poured. In addition, the overlapping will not actively absorb moisture from the solution. It is extremely important. The lack of water in a layer of raw concrete adjacent to the base will lead to incomplete maturation of the cement stone, the screed will be peeling or collapsed with even the most significant loads.

The soil is spilled along the top strips and evenly distribute the roller. In hard-to-reach places, for example, in the corners, it is better to use a brush.

• The elastic damper tape is sized around the perimeter of the walls. It will become a compensator of the concrete screed extensions, which will prevent its deformation or cracking. In addition, the screed under no circumstances should be contacted with vertical structures, be it walls, partitions or columns.

• If the screed is on the dividing layer, then at first the entire surface of the overlap is closed with a dense polyethylene film, a thickness of at least 0.2 mm. The bands are stacked by a cleaner, not less than 100 mm. The joints are necessarily sampled by waterproof construction scotch. It is necessary to try very carefully to put the film in the corners, so that strong jams and folds are not formed - there may be air "pockets". A picture of the walls on the walls should be higher than the planned screed of 5 ÷ 10 mm - then it will be easy to trim.

Schematically - waterproofing film and damping tape on the dividing layer

After the polyethylene is experiented, the damper tape is glued - as mentioned above.

Lighthouse and reinforcement system

To achieve the horizontal screed and its required height, it is necessary to create a beacon system for which a concrete solution will be carried out.

Determination of zero level

Very well, if there is a farm or it is possible to take it from acquaintances. Work in this case is greatly simplified - to beat off the horizontal strips on the walls and control the level of sending the guides will be much easier.

If there is no such possibility, it is not worse than you can set beacons with the help of a water and conventional construction level.

The water level is two cylindrical transparent vessels with an applied scale, connected by a long elastic thin hose. According to the physical law of the reporting vessels, the fluid level in them is always at one height of the horizon. Thus, by making one mark at a certain level, it is possible to transfer it to other surfaces with high accuracy within the length of the flexible hose.

Start marking from determining the zero level of the future screed. For this, first of all, you need to carry out a basic horizontal line. This is done as follows:

• Visually determined the estimated highest angle of the room. On the wall in this corner there is a mark on an arbitrary height. It is better, of course, to make it so that it is convenient to work as convenient as possible, for example, a half meter from the floor.

• Using a water level, this mark is transferred to all walls of the room. The distance between the risks should allow to connect their line using the existing ruler (you can use a long construction level or net rule).
• The line must pass throughout the perimeter of the room and come out at one point - it will talk about the correctness of the industrial.
• Prombs are produced from the applied baseline to the floor surface. Points of Promers usually - every 0, 5 M.. Be sure to ensure that the measurement is carried out strictly vertically. The obtained values \u200b\u200bmust be recorded (on a piece of paper or even on a pencil wall).

The point of the dimmer, which will give the minimum height of this distance, will correspond to the highest portion of the base.

• From the resulting value at the highest point, the thickness of the future screed (minimum - 30 mm) is taken away. For example, the minimum height is 1420 mm. We take the thickness of the screed (30 mm) and we get 1390 mm. This is the distance from the applied reference line to zero.
• Now it will be easy to carry out the entire line of the zero level around the perimeter of the room - for this you need to measure from the basic down the value obtained, mark the points and connect them straight. To simplify work, you can make a rail - template and quickly transfer the mark from the baseline. After their connection, the main zero line line will be obtained.
• In construction practice, it is rare, but still happens when the floor level is somewhat higher than at the walls. This must be checked by pulling the cord along the zero level between the opposite walls and measuring the height from it to the floor. Such a check should be carried out in several places. In the case when it is revealed that there is an elevation in the center, it will be necessary to shift the zero level up to ensure the minimum allowable screed thickness throughout the area area.

Marking under the beacon system

The markup of the beacons and the directions should be appropriate immediately after chopping the zero level, guided by the following principles:

• The orientation of the guides must be consistent with the intended direction of the most convenient fill of the screed. This is usually done along the room, from the far wall to the exit.
• It happens that in view of the complexity of the room configuration, it will be necessary to change the direction of the fill on a specific area. It should also immediately be taken into account when marking a beacon lines.
• The distance between the wall and the nearest parallel guide is usually maintained by no more than 250 - 300 mm. If you leave it big, then a poorly aligned site or even fail, which will require additional intervention subsequently may be formed along the wall.

• Distances between adjacent guides are particularly not regulated. The main thing is that the rule-mounted rule that is set to them performed on both sides by about 200 mm. It does not follow too much to carry guides - in the center between them after the shrinkage of the frozen concrete may appear quite large gaps.
• Direction lines distributing the width of the room usually at the same distance one from another.

How lighthouses and guides are exhibited by zero

Previously, various infringement materials were used as a guide for a guide system, such as wooden bars or unnecessary pipes. Today, metal profiles are used for these purposes.

• So, galvanized P-shaped profiles from plasterboard systems show themselves very well. They are resistant to deflection and create a reliable "rail" to work as a rule.
• Plastering profiles are very popular, although they are not deprived of some drawbacks. They have a rib stiffness, however, in long sites, when working as a rule, they can still be fed. In this way, with their use, the number of support points must be increased.
• In some cases, you can do without the use of profiles.

Methods of installation of the beacon a lot, and it is impossible to consider everything. Let us dwell on some of them.

• One of their most accurate and simple - with the use of self-use.

- In the far end of the room at a distance of 250 - 300 mm from the angle between the opposite walls, a durable cord is stretched along with a zero level (for example, a fishing line or a thick caprochy thread). It is important to pull it to the maximum so that there is no savings in the center.

- at the intersection of the stretched cord line with the line close to the wall guiding the floor is extended The hole where the plastic dowel is clogged and the self-tapping screw is screwed. With a screwdriver, it is screwed in such a way that the upper edge of its caps should be exactly coincided with the zero level.

- This operation is repeated in the opposite, close to the output, side of the room.

- Two self-reassembly defining the line of the guide are connected to a tightly stretched cord, so that it goes to the top of their caps.

- On this segment, the holes under the dowels are placed and drilled, distributing them evenly so that the interval of 350 ÷ 400 mm is withstanding between them.

- Self-tapping screws are screwed into a dowel before the coincidence of their hat with a stretched cord. Be sure to check with the help of a construction level - if necessary, you can make the required adjustments.

- In the same way, the line of self-tapping screws is performed on the opposite guide, and then - and on the intermediate. At the same time, the check should be carried out in all directions - longitudinal, transverse and diagonally.

- After all the lines are reached the same zero level, the stretched cords are removed. Prepare a thick concrete solution. It is laid out by small slides along the line of screwed screws. Then the top profile is put on top and pressed into the solution. The transverse shelf of the profile must continue to the head of the self-press. It is important that the profile "sat down" is evenly on both sides, without distortion.

Installation and fixation of metal profiles - guides

- After the solution grabs and reliably fix profiles in the set position, you can move to the pouring of the screed.

With plastering profiles, it turns out somewhat more complicated - they are harder to fix the heads of the screws. To this end, special fastening elements can be used - "ears" that dress on the self-tapping screws, and the side shelves of the profile are covered with their petals.

Video: Introducing beacons with the help of screws and fasteners- " ushastikov»

Another subtlety - plaster profiles also have their own height, and it is also necessary to take into account when setting the screws in the zero level.

In addition, the solution for fixation will be significantly larger than the flesh to the fact that I even resort to the calculation of even a solid shaft, in which the profile is configured with the focusing in the hats of the screws.

• Some masters are accustomed to and do without metal profiles at all.

— Exhibited chassis beaches they Bind into thin wire, thus creating a kind of reinforcing frame. Then the solution is laid over the entire line, so that the resulting shaft is slightly higher than the zero level.

- When the solution begins to collapse, form a guide plane. Using the rule, the top edge of this shaft is compared and loaded up to the hats of the screws.

- After the frozen, there will be excellent guides, for which it is quite possible to work as a rule, and then they will enter the structure of the flooded screed.

• If the screed is performed on the onset, then the method of self-sufficiency becomes not applicable - it is impossible to break the tightness of the film, and in addition, there should be no rigid clutch of a new screed with a base. In this case, it will have to tinker more, laying out the slides of the solution and accurately inserting the guides to zero levels along the stretched cords.

To speed up the readiness of the beacon system often, instead of a conventional solution, tile glue is used - the term of its frozen is much smaller. But the gypsum compositions are not allowed. First, they practically do not give shrinkage, unlike cement. Secondly, gypsum compositions have completely different indicators of water absorption, adhesion, strength, plasticity, and the like. It is possible to argue with one hundred percent confidence that at the locations of the lighthouses on the tie will go tons.

Nuances reinforcement screed

Of course, this measure is useful, especially when tie a large thickness. It is used for this, most often, a metal grid made of steel galvanized wire with cells from 50 to 100 mm - it can be purchased in the finished form in stores. Only here, with its placement, many make a serious mistake.

If you look at numerous photos on the Internet, you can see the grid laid directly onto the slab or on the waterproofing layer. In the utility of such reinforcement there are a lot of doubts. Ideally, that the reinforcement belt played its role, it should be accommodated in the thickening of the poured solution, approximately in the middle of the height of the screed.

To do this, you can purchase special polymer coasters. However, it will not be worth the ruda to make backups from the wire or even lift the grid on the lining from pieces of broken tiles or fragments of an old concrete screed. Wooden lining to use in no case.

Obviously, it is necessary to install a reinforcing lattice. It is necessary to place the guides. Most often, the installation of a system of beacons and reinforcement is carried out in parallel, and the grid can also be fixed on those slides of cement in which metal profiles are mixed.

Pouring tie.

Oddly enough, but the process of filling the screed looks in a series of all technological operations, probably the most simple. If all preparatory work is done correctly, then this stage of complexity will not submit.

• For normal fill and frozen the screed is optimal, the temperature is from 15 to 25 degrees. Work is allowed at lower temperatures (but not lower than +5), but the ripening period of concrete will increase significantly. In too hot weather, it is also better to refrain from the pouring - \u003d the upper layer can quickly dry and go cracks. He does not like screed and drafts, although completely accessing fresh air can not be overlapped.
• Best of all, of course, work together - one is engaged in the preparation of a concrete solution, and the second is directly filling and aligning the screed. The technology of kneading the solution was already described above.
• Work lead from a long corner of the room, gradually moving to the exit. It is necessary to try to fulfill the fill for one working day - so the screed will be the most homogeneous and durable. If for some reason it is impossible, then the surface of the floor is divided in advance to the plots (they are called fill cards) with the installation of jumpers between them.
• In excessive amounts laying out between the guides, so that its layer is 15 -, 20 mm above the zero level. The initial distribution is carried out using a trowel or shovels. Must be monitored so as not to remain unfilled seats - It often happens under the guides, under the rods Armatures or in the corners. Maximum sealing of a concrete solution should be achieved, the exit of the air bubbles from it. To do this, you can carry out a "pin" - the solution is pushed with a shovel or trowel.
• Next, by on thethe booming is set by the rule. The solution and transverse zigzag movements are smoothed to the level of the guides, so that it turns out a smooth smooth surface.

If the sand was not sieved and large fragments (pebbles or shells) remained, then certain difficulties may arise - these inclusions can leave the furrows and will have to suffer a lot, removing them and aligning irregularities to remove the surface to the perfect state.

Concrete solution is added as needed, so that the work went continuously. Excess the solution at the end of the pouring of the room is neatly removed.

Video: a visual example of fill screeds for lighthouses

After the fill will be completed, it is necessary provide measures, eliminating a random entrance to the premises of people or pets during the first 5 - 7 days. In order for the process from a whining to go efficiently, the surface is needed daily (starting from the second day) with water, maintaining it in a wet state. With a strong heat, it makes sense after the primary setting to hide it with a film, in order to avoid drying.

If a conventional sandy cement solution was used, then the readiness of the screed with operational can not speak no earlier than for 3 weeks. When using dry building mixtures, time can be different - they are necessarily indicated in the attached instruction.

After the screed is ready, it is checked on even the surface quality. To do this, set the rule to the implanted guides and measure the resulting clearance in the center. From the shrinkage of concrete is not anywhere, and if the clearance does not exceed 1 - 2 mm, it will be within the normal range.

Often, the thin layer composition is poured on top of the package to make the surface perfectly smooth. However, this is the topic for separate consideration.