Clay castle for a pond. The use of clay for waterproofing is a time-tested solution or relic of the past. What is waterproofing? Main ways to perform it

The picturesque lake or pond in the country is the mass of positive moments.

In addition to their pleasant aesthetic qualities and high decorativeness, the presence of a small reservoir contributes to the formation of a favorable microclimate on the plot, especially for growing a row of plants.

If desired, the pond can also perform utilitarian functions: use for fish breeding, water source for watering. And the cultivation of decorative aquatic plants will allow you to diversify the range.

However, the main question that this article is devoted is the waterproofing of the pond, the high role of which cannot be underestimated.

What is waterproofing? Main ways to perform it

The main purpose is the retention of water in the reservoir, which is especially important if the soil is represented by sand, the water permeable, and the level of groundwater is low. Waterproofing of the reservoir can be different. From what kind of you choose, and will depend on the durability of your structure, its functionality.

What will work incorrectly performed work, as well as an incorrect solution when choosing a waterproofing device? The answer is to dry up the pond, the bottom of the bottom, etc.

When choosing a way to pay attention to the size of the pond, its shape, purpose, under what conditions will be operated which features the design will have.

Of the most common methods of waterproofing, the following can be distinguished:

1. Using a special film . Suitable for a pond of any shape and size. The cheapest version of the material is polyethylene, but it has some disadvantages (short-lived, low elasticity, low resistance to ultraviolet).

A more durable and elastic coating is a geomembrane based on low and high density polyethylene. However, the most famous and widely applied option is the PVC film, which in all parameters exceeds the previous materials. There is also a rubber-based film.

2. Application of ready-made plastic and fiberglass forms You can easily find in specialized stores. The cost depends on the form, size, volume and quality of the material of the container. So, polyethylene pond is 370 liters worth about 5000-6000 rubles.

3. From concrete . This is one of the most expensive and labor-intensive ways, but also the most durable and durable. It can also be safely attributed to the category of traditional. However, it is worth remembering that this material is sensitive to a sharp drop of temperature, soil drawdown.

In addition, it is not necessary to arrange such waterproofing. If you stop the film or install the finished form, you can no problems with your own hands, then concrete waterproofing can be done by yourself if you have special skills.

4. Waterproofing clay, or clay castle device . Clay must be laid on the bottom and the walls of the pond with a thickness in the range of 20-50 cm, and not at one reception, but by several layers.

5. Sealing soil according to the Zeple Holzer method . It lies in the fact that in the water filled with water 30-40 cm, the scabator becomes an excavator, which the bucket begins to press (compact) the bottom.

6. From liquid rubber. This is a fairly new way that has many advantages. Suitable for both decorative ponds and swimming pools, water bodies for fish.

The material itself is a two-component mastic based on a polymer-bituminous aqueous emulsion, applied by spraying. Withstand frosts up to -60 ° C, service life is at least 20 years. Compared to film waterproofing, liquid rubber has high puncture resistance.

Before you start working on the creation of a pond, it is worth deciding with the method of waterproofing, choose the option suitable for you.

Waterproofing of the bottom of the pond with their own hands - the basic rules

Whatever way you choose, there are general rules that should be observed. First of all, you need to dig up the boiler under the reservoir of the desired size and shape, thoroughly form a pond bowl. Then it is necessary to align the bottom and walls, fall asleep the sand layer, which is tamped into the ground.

The next stage depends on the selected waterproofing material.

If we use the film, you first put the geotextile cloth (To protect the film from germinating roots of plants, sharp stones). The edges of the film should go beyond the pond by 50 cm, they are well fixed and masked by stones, the earth. Next, fall asleep the earth, gravel and fill with water.

If you use the finished form, I just insert it into the pitover so that the edge spoke on a couple of centimeters above the ground level. Pour water into the container and, with the help of the level, adjust the location of the pond. Then the free space between the walls of the shape and the pit is falling asleep with sand, tamper, periodically its moisturizing.

In the case of concrete, it is better to contact a specialist. But when using clay, the base of the bowl bowl should be sprinkled with assects living in the soil. Then, on the bottom and walls, lay the clay layer (10-15 cm), which should be well tumped and cover with straw from the sun. When the layer serves a little, lay the second, which is also a trambam.

Remember that when dried, the clay gives a shrink to 20%. As a result, the thickness of the clay castle will be 20-50 cm. After that, rub the rubble (fraction with a diameter of 3-4 cm), tamper. Plus, we make a layer of gravel and river sand, which will serve as an additional protection against blurring clay with water. It is worth knowing that it is impossible to put clay on the vertical wall, so the shores should be gentle.

When using liquid rubber, first lay out geotextilesBy fixing it with brackets, and then several layers of liquid rubber are applied using a sprayer.

Properly performed waterproofing is the basis of a beautiful reservoir, always filled with water.

You can absolutely correct, plant beautiful aquatic plants, perfectly arrange a coastal zone, but all spoil with a sloppy design of the border of the pond with a garden. A professional approach to this issue will allow to solve not only the problems of the decor of the garden reservoir, but also eliminate the likelihood of the coast of the shores.

On the Internet, there are a huge amount of information on the installation of the reservoir, the choice of materials for waterproofing and edging, selection of plants, and the technology of the design of the water and coast is not illuminated enough.

Water reservoir materials

Materials for the decor of the reservoir must be harmoniously attached to the size of the garden and the style of the house. Most often used natural and artificial stone, crushed rocks, slices of marble, pebbles of various color, ceramic and paving slabs, wood, gravel, sand. For reservoirs with a concrete base, a marble crumb, colored glass, china fragments and ceramics, which are fixed to the still not frozen concrete, are pressed with sharp edges inwards.

All decorative elements of the reservoir coastline must be highly fixed in their positions. Stones, ceramic and paving slabs, brick are fixed with a cement mortar, leaving pockets for planting plants.

Edging of film reservoir

For the natural transition from the pond to the garden, you can use a special decorative film, which is covered with a layer of gravel, so perfectly imitates rocky relief. Since the film with a stone itself does not hold the water, put it on top of the waterproofing, gently linse the bottom of the pond so that her stony edges go to the shore. The edges and seams are desirable to fix glue for the film. Then large stones are placed on the surface of the film along the edge of the pond in random order, simulating a natural landscape. Such a film is the most successful option for decorating the reservoir with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professionals.

Coconut mats for edging reservoir

If the pond has stewed walls, then when evaporation of water, you can observe the film edges. In this case, wicker dark brown coconut mats are used for edging, which visually imitate the soil, do not interfere with the growth and development of coastal plants, the latter, tightly growled on a solid basis, decorated well and strengthen the shores.

Technology laying coconut mats is quite simple. The mats are labeled without stretching, starting from the coastal part, they are placed along the border of the future reservoir with the shore, lowering the lower part of the making of about 50 cm in the pita, and the upper gently attaching on the shore using the P-shaped brackets from the reinforcement. To secure a mat on PVC, a special mounting glue is used. At the junction of coconuts, the overcrow should be at least 20 cm. When installing, the direction of overhearsow is taken into account - the edge of the web should not be visible from the side of the review. From the shore, the mesh structure of the coconut mat is covered with a vegetable substrate, and that part of the mat that will be in water - sand soil with an admixture of small gravel.

Option of laying coconut mats

Another option

In this case, you can do the minimum quantity or exclude it from the design of the reservoir. This method of design of the shore zone of the reservoir simulates the most natural landscape and is well suited for landscape style.

Benefits of coconut mats to strengthen the shores of the reservoir

1. Environmentally friendly natural material.

2. Does not require large capital investments.

3. Simple in installation.

4. Protects the shores from blurred.

5. Provides a long service life due to the slow decomposition of coconut fiber.

6. Promote the growth of vegetation and soil strengthening.

7. Improves water outflow.

8. Resistant to y / f radiation.

9. Resistant to the decomposition processes organic substances.

10. It closes the waterproofing of the water in the evaporation of water.

11. It serves as the basis for the root system of aqueous and coastal plants.

If coconut mats are not used to fix the shores of the reservoir, and it is planned only around it, then the edges of the film waterproofing can be hidden under the lawn to a depth of 8 - 10 cm. But this method will not help disguise the unsightly film edges when evaporated water and will not save from swallowing and blurring coastal part with its excess. Therefore, after an ordinary heavy rain on the clearing around the garden reservoir, a flooded meadow will suddenly arise. In the summer - is it a floor of trouble, and in the fall? Therefore, it is not worth saving to strengthen the shores, it's just enough to put a coconut mat under the lawn. There will be no obstacles to the growth of lawn grass, waterproofing will be closed, and the coastline will be protected from blurred.

There are no special secrets in the transitions of the borders of concrete or stone edging with a lawn. Both stone and concrete can directly border water, land and vegetation.

How to arrange the edges of the pond with a stone

The size of a stone framing the edge of the pond should be proportional to the size of the pond itself, large stones are harmoniously combined with a large reservoir, small - with small. The shape and structure of stones should also be similar. It is not desirable to use several different types of stones in the design of the reservoir.

Making the pond from the concrete base or polymer form with the help of a stone, it is necessary to prepare a substrate from the side of the shore - where the stones come into contact with the ground, first put the black Loutrasil, fall asleep with sand, then gravel. Large boulders are placed around the perimeter of the reservoir so that the part of the stone hung a little over the water, in this case all the costs of the edges of the pond are easily closed.

Small stones that have been eliminated the bottom of the reservoir, to the shore should go smoothly into larger ones. Moreover, laying out stones around the perimeter of the coastal zone, you need to follow so that the solid line is not formed. The edging of the reservoir in this case is better to make intermittent, alternating stones and plants in random order, avoiding symmetry. Large stones place the plastics, slightly tilting towards the shore.

Before fixing the stones in Cemen forever, they should be decomposed on their estimated places, then you need to consider the composition from all sides and correct errors. Only after that, the stones can be installed on the cement solution, drowning into the solution on 1/3 of their height. Do not forget to leave pockets for planting plants.

How to arrange the edges of the pond with the right geometric shapes

The edging of strict geometric shapes of garden reservoirs can be performed using wooden boards, ceramic tiles, stone plates, natural or artificial stone. When choosing a material for the design of the coastal zone, it is necessary to consider that after the rain, wooden boards and glossy ceramic tiles become slippery.

Natalia Vysotskaya, Dendrologist, Landscape designer, Candidate with. -H. Science

In the process of creating a pond at its own country, many questions arise, the general recommendations can not do. Consider these questions.

How to make a natural pond?

First we define what is meant by this phrase:

How to choose a place and what to provide:

remote from trees, high shrubs. Water should not clog leaves, branches;
good lighting, straight rays of the sun throughout the day are unacceptable;
correctly arrange in lowland so that rainwater is not spilled in the territory, and stocked in the pond;
the site is chosen smooth, with a slight inclination.

What to take into account so that the water was "alive" and did not hesitate:

Making a pond

Properly made pond takes at least the 10th part of the site. Deep - weakly heats up and just dangerous, small - blooms. Dachnikov recommends the optimal reservoir size of 2.5 - 3 m in diameter, 1.5 depths. The pit is digging manually or using the technique. Next make waterproofing.

EPOPROD - assumes natural waterproofing called clay castle.Only this natural material contributes to the vital activity of a living environmental system. This is a good way to make a pond without a film:

How to make a small reservoir?

There are several simple ways to arrange miniature reservoirs on the site.

Since the form of wave-like configuration, transitions are taken into account when instillation. Special steps are made, one more wider. After installing the emptiness fill the earth.

The form is set slightly higher than the level of the Earth, the sand layer is added to it approximately 20-30 cm, but first make marking on the ground. Then you can proceed to digging the pit. How to do it, it is clearly visible in the figures shown below.

How to make a big pond?

First locate contours. For the wrong form, the usual rope will suit; For a rectangle, a square - clog pegs, stretch between them the beep.
The excavator digs a pit. It is possible to calculate its dimensions using a formula for calculating the volume of a truncated cone. It can easily be done on the site like Fxyz.ru. It is necessary only to substitute the numbers in the desired string.
Further - align the walls of the dumped bowl and make them gentle. Provide terraces around the perimeter of reservoir. They do not give earth to crumble, serve comfortable steps when laying waterproofing. Further will be useful when making a pond.

Important! Three zones are provided in the bowl of the pit: deep, 1.8-2.0 meters, (below the level of freezing of the Earth). She is preparing that she successfully overlooked. Average - for plants. Small - in summer, such places are well warmed, the fry, livestock accumulates here, microflora multiplies.

If you are digging a pond for swimming, it is not necessary to deepen the bottom, it is done smooth.

Next need:

remove stones from the bottom, squigs;
prepare waterproofing material.

The company "Landscape structures" recommends first to fall asleep the bottom of the sand, to fit on top geotextile.

Among the existing options for waterproof coatings, usually choose butyl rubberfilm The main argument is durability. It serves until 20 years.

Lay out the film

How else can you water the pond?

For your information! In specialized stores you can buy a ready-made plastic form for a reservoir of 1000 liters and more.

How to build a dam?

For the pond, it is not necessary to make a damn, it is enough to make a dam, using the stream or the location of the catchment where the water flows. Flowing water fills with water constantly. Blind him in a narrow place. First, ditch, the bottom is laid out in greasy clay, tram. Then the wall of clay is erected, plug in the bottom and edges of the ravine. The kid of the dams raise the meter, above the future water level, the thresholds make steep.

The dams are constructed from natural materials: stone, gravel, log, sometimes concrete. The base is assumed to be wide enough for the design to withstand water pressure.

During the construction of such structures, remember the floods, consider the removal of water in extreme situations.

The mound falls asleep with a half-meter width to 4th, the height of at least 0.5 m. The dam is filled only after the dam will resist.

Concrete dam.It is reinforced by rods, a steel grid. For concreting, waterproof cement is used, liquid glass is added, PVA glue.

If there is a ravine

The ravine next to the site, along the bottom of which flows the stream and bottled in the flood, can be turned from a potential enemy in a friend and helper. The ravine brave from the shore to the banks of the embankment. It gradually accumulates rain, spring, or river water, the water surface is formed.

We give such a positive experience step by step:

Drop the waterway, temporarily send a stream into it so as not to prevent work.
Make the shields from boards, climb them with a film, from above - rubberoid.
Make the gaps in the ravine, insert the shields in them, lay out a dam.
Bottom of the alleged pond fall asleep clay, tumble, on top of the sand layer, align. In the completion of water layout with a film, walls - stone.
In order for water to keep at a certain level, install overflow pipe. Excess water goes along the rejected channel on, in the ravine. To avoid casing, just above the flow of the natural stream dig a sump.

Such a water oasis practically does not require costs, it will take the threat of flooding, decorate the resting place.

How to make a pond in the winter did not freeze?

In the fall, especially gentle and valuable plants are removed from the pond, the decorative fish is moved to the aquarium. The pond at low temperatures will be frozen, it is impossible to counteract nature, but to facilitate the wintering of fish in the reservoir, to ensure the inflow of oxygen, it is possible.

Rogo, Rogoz put vertically. Oxygen on hollow stems penetrates into water.
Foam, straw bundles The freezing will slow down on the water.
Do production, watering ice boiling water.
In severe frosts cover insulation (straw, burlap, rubberoid). It is impossible to keep such such a flooring for a long time, you need a natural light. The new one is put on a wooden or foam box, suspend the incandescent lamp, the well does not freeze.

It was used here floating aeratorHowever, its effect is effective only with small minus temperatures.

Pond from Career

Such reservoirs are called career ponds or gravel pits. These are usually old launched careers in which a peatman or a stone was mined. The water in them is stared, from the fish is found, mostly a trifle. Use for breeding fish when it is possible to provide a constant flow of water. Specialized farms on career ponds give up to 2 centers of fish with hectares. Such reservoirs are of interest to entrepreneurs.

If there is a well

The easiest way to feed the water from the well. Such a scheme, with the help of which a good idea was realized, shared the owner of such a pond at the Dacha Forum. Water performs a circuit, the flow rate is small.

Water from the pond runs to the filter. In this case, it performs the function of the skimmer.
Water purified from garbage falls into a waterfallsaturated with water oxygen. The pump in the well is included only when there is a need to raise the water level.
The relay works, includes a pump in the well, water enters the pond, fills it up to the required level. Next comes the filter queue. All mechanisms come in alternately. Such a scheme automatically supports the water level required for the filter and waterfall.

How to make a flow pond

Bridge, like reservoir decoration

The straight, curved, hanging over the water stroke - the bridge can be any. For designs, wood, concrete, stone, metal and their combinations are suitable. Even the smallest bridge will revitalize the site, will continue the track, add an unusual line in Lachaft.

Simple bridge make easy:

Filter for pond

About how to make a filter for a pond, tells Alexander Pisager to the video below.

(Magazine "House" No. 9 for 2010) We reviewed the issues that need to be solved when designing a pond: the choice of place, form and size of the reservoir, how to fill it, etc. Now we will focus on the main stages. construction of a decorative pond with a lies from a polyvinyl chloride film.

Boiler

After the draft pond is ready, proceed to the roar of the kittle. At the same time, first dig up the deepest pond place, and then gradually choose the sidewalls, bringing the bed to the desired size and shape.

If the soil is drowned or clay, then in the bottom of the bottom it is desirable to make a vertical drainage hole with a boraner and fall asleep with rubble or sand. The importance of this event will become clear when he will suddenly rain in the midst of work and the water rushes in the pit - she will go to the ground through drainage. And subsequently when pond It will be built, groundwater will also go into this drainage without putting pressure on the walls.

As with the manufacture of a pond from reinforced concrete, when used for this purpose, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) films should pre-make a sandy pillow with a thickness of at least 10 cm - along the shore and 15 cm - at the bottom. Sand after snowing shed and compact. After that, a geotextile with a density of 300 g / m 2 is placed on it. This material externally resembles felt, it stretches well and withstands large point loads (in the instructions for the manufacture of ponds, it is sometimes called "soft underlining materials").
The geotextiles stripes are laid on the bed with a long axis with a turn of 10-15 cm. Instead of "300" geotextiles, several layers of "80" -th or "100" -go can be laid. However, it should be borne in mind that the material of these brands stretches the weakly and large point loads does not withstand, so when preparing a pit from its walls and the bottom should be removed all the stones and roots, and saming the underlyilic sand.
A transparent film for greenhouses and greenhouses in the construction of ponds is not used, as it loses its qualities after 3 years (but usually happened before). The same can be said about the reinforced film.
PVC film for reservoir (as well as rubber membrane) uses a thickness of at least 0.8 mm. These materials have acid and climbustability, do not decompose under the influence of sunlight, high and low temperatures, withstand significant mechanical loads. They are released by strips width up to 15 m, which ensures the possibility of shelting the pond lodge in one piece. In addition, pieces of film easily glue.

The size of the film is determined after the sand pillow is made. The film should go ashore about 0.5 m above the water level. Moreover, the edge of the film should be bent up, cut at 2 ... 3 cm above the surface of the soil and secure in such a position with stones. Otherwise, water from the pond due to the strength of the surface tension will be suited in the soil surrounding with water.

Laying film and stones

The harvested piece of film, folded in half along the long axis, laid on one side of the bed, after which the film unfolds on the other side. The material is planted so that it is as pressed as much as possible to the soil. The tops of the film are pressed on the shores of the stones.
If planning to build pond Kupalny, then after laying the film, you can fill it with water. If the reservoir wants to give natural species - its walls are plated with tilomal or boulders. It is believed that the stones can be stacked directly on the film, but it is better to protect it with geotextiles with a density of 80 or 100 g / m 2 and put stones on it.

The bottom can be made by stone or rubble. In the latter case, laying the stones begin with the walls of the bed. But in general, rubble is appropriately used as a decorative material, and not as a backfilling of the bottom, since because of the flowability, the film may not withstand the pressure of groundwater and remove in the bottom of the pond.
With the bias of the underwater part of the coast, less than 30 ° stones are laid, without fastening with each other, but with the dressing of the seams, falling asleep space between them or clay, or a clay mixture with a wet peat in a 3: 1 ratio. If the shore is cooler, the stones should be fixed with cement mortar. This is done like this: they laid a number of stones, after which the space between the film (geotextile) and stones are filled with cement mortar, and emptiness facing inside the pond fall asleep clay. In one day, it should not be superhaded more than 50 cm of stones in height, since with a non-frozen cement solution, the masonry can slide along the slope of the shore.

Pumping equipment and decorative lighting

Any reservoir looks more attractive when using various kinds of highlighting and organizing water movement. Currently, there is a large selection of surface and underwater illumination, pump, fountains and pumps, often combined with filters. It is only necessary to remember that all products that consume electricity should have an appropriate labeling that resolve their use in the open air and in water. The same conditions must be satisfied with the wiring.

When using electrical equipment, the question often arises: "Leave it for the winter?". The answer depends on the size of the pond. Of the implanting low-income shallow water bodies, lamps and pumps should be deleted. In the rapid reservoirs (with a depth of more than 1.5 m) electrical equipment is left for the winter. However, if the pumps and lamps are installed in the freezing zone (up to 0.6 ... 1 m), they should be removed or burst. In addition, in the fall, it is necessary to drain the water from the surface filters and pipes (hoses).
If electrical equipment is planned to be removed during the conservation of a pond for the winter, then when it is installed, the wire is either left openly lying on the ground (the wires of black color in the eyes are not thrown), or cover with stones, rubble, labeled between plants, etc. If the electrical equipment is not removed, then the wires and hoses are more convenient to skip and bring to the shore through a special tube, which they are pre-laid on the bed of the pond and closed with stones. On the banks of the wire hide in a corrugated sleeve and bury at least 10 cm.
Finally, in accordance with the safety regulations, any powerary equipment must be maximally de-energized during breakdowns or malfunctions. That is, the switch, sockets, and some models - start-adjusting devices, must be installed at the pond in a special electrical box.

Filling and decoration of the pond

Usually 7-10 days after laying on the cement mortar of the last decorative stone (in some recommendations, when using high cement marks, a period of 3 days is indicated) produce the first filling a pond. Water is kept for about 10 days, preferably - with stirring. (To do this, it is enough in the pond to lower the pump, the hose from which is in the surface of the pond.) The task of "the first water" is to squeeze the air from the possible cavities between the shepherd stones and the film and maximize the film to the pond false, wash alkaline substances from a frozen cement solution ( Naturally, not all, but if possible) and rinse a falling crushed stone. After removing the "first water", the bottom of the pond from the dirt and garbage is clean, the pumps (pumps, fountains) are mounted, installed underwater lamps, decorated or hide the wires and hoses.
Water and semi-water plants are planted in a pre-prepared and clumsy ground in niches on the slopes of the shores. From above, the soil is closed with rubble or pebbles. Plants can be planted in the mesh baskets with the soil, which are installed or in the niches, or the bottom of the reservoir and decorated with stones.
If the water can be filled in a short time, then all plants are planted immediately. Otherwise, the plants are planted as the pond is filling.

It should be remembered that the pond will perform its decorative function if it becomes an element of a whole complex consisting of reservoir, plants, stone plating and sinking, as well as tracks and garden structures - bridges, etc. From the trees and shrubs, the pond looks good wise forms of willow, birch, larch, small bushes of Willow of Purple or Loch, single landing of juniper or mountain pine pines, dörnen, skumpies, hydrangea, pots, thickets of spiries, anstilbs, bulls and so on - the range of suitable Plants are almost unlimited.

Water Cascade

Cascade, waterfall, cliff, rock, coastal mountaineering, Rodnik - a draft of these decorative elements should be created at the design stage of the pond. All these "structures", with the exception of a small coastal mountaineering or spring, should be built on their own foundations. Otherwise, the multi-torque stone mass (and 1 m 3 of the stone can weigh 2 tons) just eats into the pond and destroy its wall.
Therefore, first of all, the sizes of the cascade (or other structures) should be determined, calculate its tonnage and determine the pressure on the ground. It is believed that at a pressure of 1 ton, 1 m 2, the depth of the integration of the monolithic foundation may be within 50 cm.

But it should be borne in mind that when the soil is freezing, such a foundation can be squeezed or shifted towards the powers. Therefore, it is laid on the depth of freezing while compliance with the relevant requirements (laying of a sand pillow, filling the sinus with non-empty soil, waterproofing).
The height of the waterfall, the number of waterfalls in the cascade, the degree of hanging the cliff, the breakdown of the cliff - all this is chosen to their taste or focusing on the designer's recommendation.
But there are several purely building tricks:
- All stone or masonry materials should not delay water, otherwise in winter it can break the laying;
- To ensure a uniform water drain at the top of the waterfall, put out of the stone "water carbonate capacity", where water will be wound up pump. The drainstone is made of the tumor, the outer edge of which is installed horizontally in terms of the level, and the back is slightly pluled;
- So that the water in the "water removal capacity" remains for the winter, it is necessary to make a drainage hole in its lower part;
- With a fall of the jet of the waterfall, a large amount of spray is usually formed, which over time can be laundered by the wall of the waterfall and the foundation. In order to avoid this wall, protect the film or the membrane, which decorate with stones;
- When building a cascade, it is advisable to create a lower "receiving capacity", and the drain stone push forward so that the water does not fall directly on the pond wall.

Of course, a waterfall or rock, a cascade or a spring will look lonely and not destroyed if they do not decorate them by plants. Along these structures, all plants suitable for mountaineering and rocaries can be planted. In addition, under the splashes of water, such "non-zealous" plants like ferns, white workers, irises, kals, bulls, etc. will be perfectly felt.
It should be borne in mind that all stone elements are very much getting drunk the soil in the fall and do not give plants to properly prepare for the winter. Therefore, planting plants directly in the stone array should not be. It is necessary to ensure reliable thermal insulation of the soil and, consequently, the roots of plants from the stone mass.

S. Batov, magazine "House" №10 / 2010

Read on the topic "Pond in the garden":
- Construction of a pond and garden reservoir. Useful tips. >>>
- Construction of a pond with waterproofing from concrete and hard forms. >>>
- Construction of a pond with flexible waterproofing. >>>
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But seeing like the neighbors in a couple of winters squeezed a bowl of high-strength cement in a few tons, I was convinced that the rigid design is not suitable. In general, everything thought over and started work.

Made the contour of the future reservoir oval - 8 m long, 3.5 m wide.

Together with the son, they dug a week, the walls made inclined, about 120 °. Summer stood dry, dig it easily: the dry clay did not stick to the shovel. On the occasion, there was a black adhesive film for gas pipelines, the thing is very good, the only minus is afraid of ultraviolet, but still served almost 20 years.

The reservoir turned out to be 1.5 m in depth, three steps were made to exit, at the lowest point, a polyethylene barrel of 160 liters was buried for the pump when the water was replaced. Then the whole reservoir was packed with two layers of polyethylene and sinked with a black self-adhesive film - at that time Super came out.

True, the larvae of mosquitoes quickly chose the reservoir, they had to launch a crucian fry, which perfectly fit.

In winter, I do not drain the water, and the fish are calmly winter in the barrel (the depth is 2.5 m).

However, time is going, the film has crackled over the years, the species became untidy. I decided to lay a stone with a stone, the benefit was navigated from the city a whole bunch, mainly from the garbage dumps.

Again, together with his son, I risen all the old film, they were sick, all the more so now everything can be bought. The bottom of the reservoir (up to 80 cm) laid the solid bowl on concrete with the reinforcement with a square diabase.

Above began to make blocks of 12 stones with thermal sewing seams, so that in winter it did not break.

And on top of the brush and the framing, the vase made entirely of concrete and wild stone, and there was enough for a slide-waterfall stone.

In general, while my construction stood two winters, there are no cracks. Karasi feel good too well. Last year, so many fools were that they shared with their neighbors, they just have a wild pond.

Honestly, there are a lot of work, everything about everything passed 20 bags of cement and a decent amount of stone, but it turned out so beautiful! And the water is murmur from the jug, and karasi play in the water! If someone has questions - call.

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