Wall insulation with a foam with his own hands. Warming at home by foam with her own hands. Finishing works - trim joints and corners, wall decoration

Warming, an important stage at the end of the repair of an apartment or the construction of a private house. Due to the insulation of the external walls from environmental exposure, their service life increases. The cost of heating may decrease by 30-40% depending on the difference in the thermal conductivity of the insulation and the facade. Heat the house with foam - this is the most common way to increase the energy efficiency of the building, how to make it properly we will tell you in detail below.

Example of insulation home outside

An example of internal insulation

Insulate outside or inside

Scheme - location of the dew point when insulation of the house outside

The insulation of the walls of the foam outside is allowed to shift the dew point (0º C) into the insulation, and if you do it yourself, it is also much cheaper. Also, the negative impact of the seasonal change of temperature leading to the cooled and heating of the facade is excluded. The difference in the temperature of the inside and the outside of the wall is removed, which slows down the appearance of cracks.

With internal insulation, the dew point is also in the insulation, but the front side of the wall is exposed to external influence, and completely freezes in winter. Walls insulated on the inside are destroyed faster than without thermal insulation.

Video: Heat engineering. Dew point

Choosing foamflast

To understand what foam plastic is better for the insulation of the house, you need to check the technical documentation. Marking must be PSB-C-40, self-fighting expanded polystyrene. In the manufacture of the density can be from 20 to 40 kg per cubic meter. The insulation of the foam of facades requires a high density of the material.

The minimum possible density of 30 kg / m3, because you need to create a mandatory protective layer.

Check whether the product corresponds to the product, breaking the piece from it. If the edge is uneven, with round capsules, then such a low-quality foam and is not suitable for outdoor use. With the required density - the granules of the correct shape, and the rift is smooth.

Properties of material

Polystyrene foam - plates consisting of pellets foam styrene. Due to the presence of internal voids filled with air, has a low thermal conductivity. The material is lightweight, and environmentally friendly, therefore, the foam in insulation is widely used.

Technical characteristics of the insulation (click on the picture to increase)

Characteristics (GOST 15588-70):

Thermal conductivity 0.037 W / (M * K).
Density up to 40 kg / m3.
Permeability for steam 0.05.
Temperature from minus 50º C to plus 70º C.

Disadvantages that need to be taken into account when assessing:

felicness, high flammability, class G4;
attracts rodents the opportunity to equip a warm nest;
low resistance to chlorinated and aromatic hydrocarbons, acetone and surgel;
low pressure resistance;
under ultraviolet allocates toxic substances.

Which houses can not be insulated

Floodlock insulation scheme with description

Wooden house insulation

If there is a question - is it possible to insulate the foam house wooden, foam block, you need to know the main features of these materials. Thus, wooden walls have greater vapor permeability, and due to low polyfoam, begins to accumulate moisture, inside the fibers. Therefore, in order to avoid rotting timber and dampness within the house, you need to use another heat insulating material.

Brusade house most often insulate aerated concrete, or mineral wool, and over siding.
Wooden frame house, suitable for outdoor insulation of walls, it is important only to hydroize a tree.
The house built from foam blocks requires a smaller thickness of the insulation, due to its own low thermal conductivity. Sometimes it is not advisable to carry out thermal insulation works if high-quality materials are used for construction.

Calculation of foam thickness

Table of insulation thickness depending on the thickness and material of the outer walls

The thickness of the foam for the insulation of the walls should be calculated individually for each building. The final indicator affects the thermal conductivity of the material of the walls, and the region in which the house was built. Too small thickness will not perform its functions, too big - will not give additional advantages. To calculate, you need to know the thickness and thermal conductivity of walls, as well as foam. It is also necessary to take into account the requirements of SNIP 23-02-2003, which establishes a certain coefficient of heat transfer resistance for each region.

Recommended insulation thickness depending on the region

For a house in the Moscow region (3.16), with red brick walls (0.67), 0.4 m thick, it is required to produce the following calculations:

3,16 – (0,4/0,67)=2,57
2,57*0,037=0,095

The resulting value is always rounded in a large side, in this case up to 10 mm.

Preparation for house insulation

Due to the fact that the polystyrene foam can be installed almost on any surface, it is used for brick, reinforced concrete and slag cloth houses. The preparation of walls begin with cleaning any protruding details, such as drainage pipes, fits and elements of the external decor. In the case of speaking in the brickwork of a large number of frozen cement mortar, it is neatly knocked down. The painted surface is opened until it removes paint.

One of the stages of the preparation of the wall - primer

After that, the surface is checked for cracks, irregularities and, if necessary, flashes cement. Required checking levels, evenness of walls. The difference between the same edge from the other should not exceed 1.5-2 cm, especially if the finish finish is carried out using siding. When there is a significant difference, then the screed is made. The shplanke is also used for a variable with a diameter of more than 3 cm. On the finished surface, a layer of penetrating primer is applied, so it is impossible to work in the winter. This improves the adhesion of glue with the surface of the wall, and the development of the fungus under the insulation is prevented.

Big houses will require the use of a pulverizer to apply primer, whereas for small can be used brush or roller. After complete processing of the walls, when the preparatory layer is dry, proceed to the installation of sings and slopes.

Video Master Class: Proper Wall Preparation

Methods of mounting foamflast

Adhesive when light foam sheets are used.
Installation of dowels with wide hats holding plates in place, and attached directly to the wall. The main thing is to remember that there is a plastic dowel to minimize the temperature.
The combined method in which glue solution and clamps are used, this method is the most reliable, eliminating the possibility of peeling the edge.

To secure on the walls, a special adhesive solution will be required, as well as plastic dowels with a wide hat, 5 pieces per sheet. The amount of adhesive required depends on the manufacturer's selected.

Warming Technology:

In one layer when the plate has a full thickness;
In two layers when the sheets glue each other, and have half the desired thickness.

How to determine the desired number of sheets:

To determine the desired number of foam sheets, it is required to multiply the height of the walls on their length, and to subtract the area of \u200b\u200ball openings. The resulting value is required to increase by another 20%, this is done in order to take into account the loss of material on the fitting and trimming under the right size.
For decoration, you need to buy a reinforcing mesh of fiberglass or polyurethane, with 5 mm cells, 20-30% more than the insulated area.
The edges of the grid should go to the brass, as well as the corners in order to withstand the weight of the plaster.
After that, finishing materials are purchased. It is important to check that the plaster and adhesive are suitable for applying foam.

Installation of foam sheets on the facade

Installation Tools:

a bucket of 2-5 l;
4 and 20 cm spatulas;
construction mixer;
drill;
building level.

The stove for applying adhesive composition should be rough, if it is smooth, then it should be done on it with a metal bristle. The glue is divorced according to the instructions, mixed with a mixer, ready-made consistency should be thick enough to withstand the weight of the slab. But if the mixture is too dry, it does not stick the foam properly. In order to understand what flow will be, 50-100g dry glue is mixed, gradually adding water.

The first stage of installation - the starting profile

Mounting begins with the attachment of the bottom plank or a corner to the wall, at a level of 20 cm from the edge of the soil or scene. The profile will serve as support during attaching plates to the wall, and after drying, allow foam to withstand greater weight of plaster.

The finished adhesive mixture is applied around the perimeter on the rough side of the polystyrene, retreating from the edge by 3-4 cm, after which they make several squeezes in the middle of the sheet, and applied to the wall. The surface of the sheet must be covered by about 40%. The first row starts from the lower corner of the house, the following is imposed so that the edges accounted for the middle of the previous series. If the insulation of the walls is performed in several layers, then the second layer is superimposed so as to overlap the joints of the previous one.

Apply glue and glue

If there is a gap between the insulation plates of more than 3 mm, it is sealed by the mounting foam, the protruding parts of which are sampled after frozen. The same makes the protrusions of sheets. A glue composition is applied to the seams and fasteners to exclude irregularities.

Video: The result of insulation foam facade of the house after 2 years

Finishing protective and finishing work

Polyfoam does not tolerate direct sunlight, so it is necessary to carry out outdoor work, insulating it from the external environment. To do this, the special adhesive mixture is applied to the insulation, and the grid of fiberglass is superimposed on it, with a total of 6-7 cm. To enhance the angles, the reinforced grid should enter the adjacent wall to 10-15 cm. If a heavy finish is planned, the corners are enhanced Metal corner. After a complete clamping of the house with a grid, the layer is given to dry for 1-2 days.

When the grid has been fixed, it is sliced, and soaked. While the primer dries, fix the roof drainage system. After absorption, the primer is applied with a putty, a layer of 3-4 mm, or outdoor plaster, and allow the layer to dry for 3-4 days.

To be insulated with the help of foam, the house is simple enough, the main thing is to choose the material compatible with the material so as not to dissolve the granules. It is also important to create a finishing layer that protects polystyrene foam from the effects of the Sun.

Detailed video instruction

This article is focused on those people who decided to insulate their housing from within the foam. Next, I will try to highlight all the nuances of performing this procedure in detail so that you can fulfill this work as efficiently as possible and efficiently.

Is it worth performing internal insulation of foam

Often, newcomers are asked on the forums - is it possible to insulate the house from the inside of the foam?

Honestly, I am generally an opponent of the insulation of walls from the inside for the following reasons:

this operation isolates the walls from internal heating, as a result of which they cease to heal. This leads in some cases even to the occurrence of cracks on the walls;

the dew point is transferred towards the room, as a result of which moisture is formed between the insulation and the wall. It also negatively affects the durability of the walls;
the overlap and ceiling come into contact with the cold walls, as a result of which serves as the cold bridge. True, this drawback is manifested only if the overlap is concrete, because concrete, as is known, has a high thermal conductivity;
insulation at home, though slightly, but still reduces the useful area inside the housing. For small houses, for example, garden, this lack can also be critical.

Therefore, most often insulate the walls inside the room, if it is not possible to perform this operation outside or, for example, it turned out that the outer thermal insulation is not effective enough.

As for foam plastic, this insulation is also not the best choice for internal thermal insulation for a number of reasons:

expanded polystyrene is a fire-hazardous material;

in the event of a ignition, the foam allocates toxins, which leads to poisoning of people inside the building;
it has zero vapor permeability, with the result that after the insulation the walls cease to "breathe". Therefore, housing needs quality heat insulation.

A good alternative foam is an extrusion polystyrene foam, which is often fireproof due to the presence of antipyrin.

Therefore, I do not recommend warming up a foam accommodation for permanent residence. But if you need to insulate the country house, which is used from time to time, or a balcony, then overall polystyrene foam is a good option.

The fact is that with all its shortcomings it has some important advantages:

low price - you can find a foam at a price of 1500-2000 rubles per cube;
excellent thermal insulation qualities - thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam even lower than its competitor - Minvati.

Warming framework of walls and ceiling

It can be combined with foam from the inside of the walls and the ceiling in two ways:

frame;
wet.

First consider the frame method of insulation. In my opinion, it is the most optimal, as it allows you to level some disadvantages of internal thermal insulation.

This process includes four main steps:

Preparation of materials

So, for insulation of the house, you will need a skeletal way:

polyfoam - preferably with low density (15kg / m3), as it is cheaper, moreover, has a lower thermal conductivity;
antifungal agent;
waterproofing film;
wooden rails;
details for assembling the frame - metal profiles and suspensions, as when mounting drywall;
framework material.

Preparation of walls and ceiling

Before performing the insulation of walls by foam from the inside, it is necessary to prepare them as follows:

first of all, free the surface of the walls from the shelves, lockers and other parts that will interfere with the work;
if there is an old finish on the walls, which peels and hang out, it must be removed;

then treat the surface with anti-grapple composition. To do this, you can use a painting roller or brush. Details of this work you can learn from the instructions on the package.

According to the same scheme, the ceiling is also carried out.

Warming and mounting frame

Now you can proceed to the insulation of the walls.

The instruction on the execution of this operation looks like this:

so that the moisture is not accumulated between the insulation and the wall, the ventilation clearance should be performed. To do this, it is necessary to fasten the rails on the wall, placing them horizontally.

The thickness of the rivers should be one and a half or two centimeters. As for the width, it should be such that you can subsequently attach the suspension to the crate.

Reiki should form several belts in a half-meter step, as shown in the scheme above. In addition, make a gap between the races horizontally in several centimeters;

polyfoam for insulation of walls inside the house, albeit to a lesser extent than minvat, but still absorbs moisture. Therefore, I recommend to protect the material with a waterproofing film.
To do this, secure her lanti on the rails. To fix the film on the crate you can use the stapler.

It must be said that when the ceiling insulation, the ventilation gap does not need to be performed, in addition, there is no need to use the waterproofing film.

after that, it is necessary to designate the position of profiles on the walls and the ceiling with the help of smooth lines. To apply them, you can use a paint cord or a construction level and chalk.
The lines are applied with a step of 60 cm. At the same time, 10 cm should be retreating from the corner;

on the obtained lines, it is necessary to designate the location of the suspensions at a distance of half the meter;
now the mounting of the suspension should be installed. As a rule, they are fixed with a dowel-nail. During the installation process, make sure that the suspension is located strictly perpendicular to the profile lines;

now you can warm the wall and ceiling. For this, the slab is simply acknowledged on the suspension, after after performing the slots for them.
To fix the plates on the ceiling, you can use glue for foam or dowel. On the walls, as a rule, the insulation is kept simply on the suspension, it will later be pressed by racks. However, temporarily canfully fix the plates on the straps of self-drawers with wide washers;

after that, the framework is being assembled. I first recommend consuming the guide profiles on the ceiling and the floor, as with a standard frame assembly under plasterboard. In order for profiles on the same level, after installing the guide on the ceiling, fuel the line on the floor using plumbers;
the racks are then inserted into the guides, and is fixed in the suspension with the help of screws;

after that, around the perimeter of the ceiling, you need to install guides on the walls in a horizontal position. Next, these guides are inserted profiles and are fixed in the suspension on the ceiling.

Keep in mind that the ceiling profiles can be fastened, so in the process of installing them should be aligned. To do this, you can even pull the threads between the extreme profiles.

The frame can be made not only from metal profiles, but also wooden bars. In this case, the insulation is inserted into the space between the racks.

On this insulation completed. Now the last stage remains - this is a framework of a frame. For these purposes, you can use drywall, lining, plastic or other materials.

I will not describe this procedure, as you can familiarize yourself with it from other articles on our portal.

Wet insulation

Now I will tell you how to insulate the house of foam inside by gluing it, i.e. wet. This technology also includes several steps:

Preparation of materials

First of all, I note that for the insulation of the walls and the ceiling is wet, it is desirable to use a more dense foam than for insulation on frame technology. The fact is that in this case the material will not only insulate the walls and the ceiling, but also carry out the carrying function, as well as to perceive all the shock loads. Therefore, the optimal option is a polystyrene foam density of 25kg / m3.

In addition to the insulation, you will also need:

glue for polystyrene foam, for example, Ceresit CT85. The same composition can also be applied to the black plastering of the insulation.
fiberglass mesh;
primer;
putty for walls and ceiling.

Installation of insulation

The process of preparing the walls to omit, since I already told about him. The only note that the walls before mounting the insulation should be projected using a brush or roller. Moreover, the soil is applied with two layers with a period of time in order to dry the first layer.

The instruction on the installation of foams looks like this:

first of all, you need to prepare glue. To do this, pour it into a bucket, pour with water and mix thoroughly. The solution should turn out to be a tough consistency;
then apply glue solution on the entire surface plate, and then give him a relief toothed spatula;

now the first plate attach to the wall. Start the installation from the bottom from the corner.
Plate Press the wall, and adjust its position by level;
then, in the same way, install the slab near the opposite angle, and adjust the level;

after that, tension between two slabs thread so that the intermediate plates can be aligned. To do this, tie a thread to two cloves, and then insert the carnations in the ribs of foam plates. As a result, the thread should pass strictly along the ribs;
then glue all intermediate plates;

begin to glue the second row with half the plates to shift vertical seams. As a result, the insulation must be placed in a checker.
Further installation is carried out according to the same principle as the first row salary. The only one, watches, so that there are no deviations on the vertical of one row relative to the other. Thanks to this, the walls will be smooth;
by the same principle you need to glue the insulation and the ceiling;
after soaring glue, the foam should be additionally fixed with dowels. Fasteners must fix the foam in the corners, as well as in the center.

Thus, one slab requires 5-6 fasteners. To save a dowel, they can be placed on the joints of the plates. Thus, one hat will fix several plates at once.

The process of mounting fasteners is quite simple - you need to drill a hole on the necessary depth, then insert the "umbrella" itself and score a nail into it. The nail is clogged so that the hat is slightly impoverished in the insulation.

On this installation of the thermal insulation material is completed.

Preparation for roughing

Preparation for roughing is carried out like this:

the existing gaps between the foam be sure to fill in the adhesive or trimming of the insulation;
if there are differences on the joints, set them a special grater;
all recesses that obtained after installing fasteners must be covered with glue;

existing outer angles need to be protected from chipping and damage perforated plastering corners. Stick them with glue, and align in terms of level.

Chernovo finish

Now it remains only to perform the black finish of the ceiling and walls, which is carried out like this:

first prepare the reinforcement grid. It must be chopped into stripes in the height of the room and the width of the ceiling.
Note that the canvas on the walls and the ceiling must overlap the centimeters by 7-10. In addition, the grid must be wrapped on the corners;
then prepare glue and apply it to a gear spatula on a plot equal to the size of one mesh strip;

next, attach the grid to the surface treated with glue, align it vertically (you can on the eye), and on top of it with a wide spatula. In the process of stroking the canvas with the spatula, the grid will be completely covered with protruding glue. As a result, a smooth and smooth surface should be obtained;

when the adhesive composition is completely dry, it must be applied by a second layer with a thickness of about 3 mm. This will further protect the insulation from mechanical damage, as well as eliminate small surface flaws;
after drying the glue of the wall and the ceiling must be projected once again;

finishing the walls and the ceiling should be completed. If the surface turned out to be sufficiently smooth, use the finishing putty, which is applied with a thin layer.

If the drop in the drops exceeds several millimeters, use the starting putty.

At this, the insulation of the ceiling and walls from within the foam completed.

A few words about the insulation of the floor

The foam can be inspired not only the walls and the ceiling, but also the floor.

And there are two technologies for its use for these purposes:

dry - used for floor on lags;
wet - allows you to warm the concrete overlap.

Floor insulation on lags

For the insulation of sex on lags, such materials must be prepared:

foam - can be used low density plates, for example, 15kg / m3;
waterproofing film;
antiseptic for wood.

Work is carried out like this:

if there is a flooring on the floor, it must be dismantled;

if there is no draft floor between lags, it must be performed. To do this, fasten the cranial bars on the lags and laid the rails over them;
all parts of the wooden design process with antiseptic;
then the lags and the draft floor are made by waterproofing film;
after that, fill the space between the lags of the foam;

from above on lags and foam beds one more layer of waterproofing;
at the end of the work of bed on the lags of the boards according to the standard scheme.

Warming of concrete overlap

To insulate the concrete floor by polystyrene, prepare such materials:

styrofoam - use the most dense brand for these purposes, i.e. PSB-C-35, as it has the greatest strength;
waterproofing film;
materials for filling the screed.

The process of insulation looks like this:

first prepare the foundation - clean it from garbage and dust. Also, it is necessary to remove the sections that turned out and contain an acute surface that can break through the film;
next, install the floor with a film, be sure to wrapped it on the corners. Waterproofing joints Skotch tape;
on top of the waterproofing to lay foam. Try at the same time so that there are no cracks between the plates;

then shutter the insulation by another layer of waterproofing;
now on top of the film you need to pour the screed according to the standard scheme. The only, I recommend reinforcing it fiber, as the grid in the installation process can break waterproofing.

At this insulation of the house completed.

Output

From this article, you learned about all the main nuances of housing insulation from the inside by foam, so you can safely take care. I recommend to watch a video in this article. If you have questions, unsubscribe in the comments, and I will gladly answer you.

Outer - Thermal protection is arranged outside the building.
Interior - Warming work is carried out indoors.
Combined- combines both above the resulting method of thermal protection.

The advantages of the outdoor method of insulation

Before the start of the process of insulation of the building, it is necessary to clarify some technical terms that determine the method of thermal protection:

"Dew point" - air temperature at which the formation of liquid droplets begins, deposition on the surface or under it; Determined by the saturation of air moisture, that is, relative humidity.
Outdoor temperature - Indicator on the surface of the building wall.
Inner temperature - Indicator on the inside of the wall.
Thermal conductivity - Material ability to skip or delay cold.

With a significant temperature difference outside and inside the building, its design is committed to aligning this difference, lead to equilibrium. But a person needs a comfortable environment in which the indoor index would not be lowered below + 18-20 ° C. To do this, heating the house and the decrease in heat loss through the walls by means of their insulation.

Heat losses are reduced by installing an additional belt of the insulation, which has low thermal conductivity coefficients. That is, without insulation, with the values \u200b\u200bon the outer wall, for example, -15 ° C, inside will be about + 10 ° C. With insulation, indoors, on the wall, the indicator can reach + 17-20 ° C.

Dew point

This indicator has a significant impact on the location inside the wall of the point where condensate will be formed and, accordingly, affect the moisture content of the building structure.

With internal insulation, cold is able to penetrate deeper, shifting the place of formation of dews inside the wall, closer to the room.

It causes:

Improving humidity in the room.
"Spreading" walls, as a result, might may appear, mold.
Damage to the internal decorative layer- peeling wallpaper, paint, swelling of wood elements of the interior.
Accelerated loss of their properties Building construction.

The device of external thermal insulation has a number of certain positive factors:

Dew point shifts to the outside of the structure and is located in the layer of insulation.
Due to the low thermal conductivity coefficient and the structure of the heat insulating material, the moisture inside the insulation is almost not formed.
Outer Wall It will always be dry.
Improve operating conditions Building construction.
The wall will be able to accumulate thermal energywhich will be given inside the room, for example, when conducting.
Outdoor work You can spend at any time of the year, at the same time they will not affect the terms of living in the house.

Based on these information, the best conditions for insulation is to carry out work on the outside of the wall.

Preparation of walls

The main task that is standing in the preparation of the wall - This is the creation of conditions for the reliable installation of the insulation and, accordingly, the fulfillment of their functional purpose.

For this, a number of events are held:

Old sewing plasterSowing paint is removed. Cleaning from mud sediments and dust.
Starting elements of formwork - parts of boards, reinforcements, grids need to be removed.
For large drops, more than 2-3 cm per meter, the wall surface must be aligned. As a rule, this is carried out by applying a fresh layer of plaster. For strength, you can apply an alignment mixture to the construction grid. When carrying out this operation at the same time deep cracks and cracks close up.
The insulated plane is soaked with acrylic primer deep penetration. It is better to use a concentrated composition diluted before applying according to the instructions. Since work is performed on the outer layer of the wall, it is advisable to choose the composition from the "Waterproof" series, used for external work.

Preparation of insulation

Protective material, before use should be stored in a dry ventilated place. If there is moisture on the product, it needs to dry well.

PSB foam brand does not require additional work, but the penplex, which has a smooth surface, must be prepared. This is explained by the fact that when installing on the adhesive composition, it will be necessary to provide maximum adhesion.

To do this, that part of the insulation with which the glue will be in contact is exposed to abrasive material, rolling with a needle roller or processed with a brush with a metal bristle. Risks, scratches, recesses increase the total clutch area and thereby increase the strength of the adhesive connection.

Installation of sings and insulation of slopes

Protection of slopes near door and window openings, installing low tide to the facade wall decoration. The thickness of the insulation is determined at the place, based on the free space from the side surface of the movement to the glass (minus 10-15 mm).

The free clearance between the frame and the wall must be filled with slices of insulation or mounting foam. Polyfoam sits on an adhesive mixture or mounting foam. Additional fixation is possible - a plastic dowel having a wide hat. His spacious name is "umbrella." Parts of sheets must be over the edge of a wall of 10-20 mm, - this will provide a reliable joint with a facade part of the protective material.

The new difference size is calculated based on the thickness of the foam layer with the facade finishing coating plus 30-40 mm. The free space between the metallic (plastic) part of the visor, to prevent condensate formation, is also filled with insulation and foam. Additional property will be added - a reduction in sound from rain drops.

Installation of insulation

The foam is fixed on the wall in several ways:

Fixation By means of plastic dowels (umbrellas).
Landing for glue and additional umbrella mounting.
The use of polyurethane adhesive composition - close by properties and composition for mounting foam.

Fixation of dowels

This method is used on smooth surfaces, allowing to minimize the gaps between the adjacent sheets of the insulation. The method is convenient to install the installation with an instant transition to finishing facade work. Work is quite forces to one person.

Required tool:

cutting devices: a sharp knife with a long blade, a device with a heated nichrome wire;
perforator or shock drill, electrical extension cord;
a hammer;
set of measuring instruments, - roulette, level, cord, plumb, pencil (marker);

First stage - This is a markup. Work is carried out from below. For high-altitude operations will need a stepladder or scope.

Umbrellas are installed in the body of the sheet or fixation in the joints of the interfaces of mating products is carried out.

Installation on glue

Work also begins with marking, but an additional operation appears - installing the starting profile. It is necessary to support the lower sheets and, at the same time, with proper marking, the formation of a horizontal form.

The reference element is selected under the width of the insulation - 50 or 100 mm. It is attached to the wall through a dowel-nail. It is best to apply perforated profile - these are ready-made holes for fastening and compensation for thermal expansion. Metal carries an additional useful function - it protects the foam from rodents.

The adhesive mixture is applied to the sheet "dots" (blooming). This reduces existing irregularities on the wall. On the perimeter of the insulation, the glue should form a solid line. On a flat surface, the adhesive composition is used in the same way as when laying the tile, the plastic mass on the surface of the sheet is smoothed by a toothed spatula.

Additional fixation with plastic dowels is used after 3-4 days. Possible seams between the matelated sheets are sealed by mounting foam. For the convenience of work, the insulation laid horizontally along the long side of the sheet. Each subsequent row is mounted by a brickwork method - the middle of the upper product should have to the lower vertical seam.

Polyurethane glue

The difference of this method from the previous - The use of another adhesive material and there is no need for additional fixation of the dowels. In terms of installation, he surpasses previous methods for installing foam, professional compounds are collected in 30-45 minutes. This allows you to begin preparation and, in fact, finishing works.

Facade work

To protect the insulation from atmospheric influences and giving the facade of aesthetic species, a number of events are held:

At the corners, in the places of transitions, the corner grid (serpent) is mounted. It can be fixed with glue or have a self-adhesive layer on one side.
Surface of protective material is covered with a painting mesh with a cell 2 x 2 or 5 x 5 mm. To do this, the insulation is applied a thin layer (up to 5 mm) of the adhesive composition, in which the reinforcing product is taken. The grid is suitable, moving from above-down.
Dried adhesive layer Impregnate with facade primer and covered with splock for outdoor work.
Next, an operation to eliminate irregularities - Grinding (grout) and the application of the finish putty. After drying it, it is primer and a decorative coating device.

Why is the foam?

Styrofoam - One of the types of building materials representing the foamed mass of polymeric substances. The main volume of the product is occupied by gas, so this material has low density and, accordingly, weighing.

Styrofoam - This is the common name of all types of foam plastics: polyurethanes, polyvinyl chlorides, polystyrenes and others. They differ from each other internal structure, density, technical properties.

The foamed material has a number of consumer properties:

High heat insulating properties - Due to the internal structure representing granules filled with gas-air mixture.
Productallowed to be used in construction or for packaging materials are not harmful, which, for example, allows us to use as food pallets.
Thanks to the ease of finished productsThe sheets are comfortable in the installation, any, physically not developed person cope with them.
Plastic masses do not rotare not exposed to mold and fungus.
Products are easily processed by most cutting construction tools.But it is more convenient to work with a heated nichrome wire.

At the same time, foam foams are minor mechanical strength. The thickness of the heat insulating layer depends on the thermal properties of the wall - the worse, the size of the insulation layer must be greater. The most running indicators of the protective layer are 100-200 mm of the cross section of the product.

Separately, it is necessary to highlight the property of the water absorption - This is important when choosing a type of insulation used for outdoor work.

For insulation, it is possible to use the PSB prefigure polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene foam, suspension free or extrusion, for example, penplex. The first species is dialing about 0.25 mm moisture throughout the year. The second, in 10 years it will absorb no more than 0.4% of the water from the entire volume of the product.

Hence the conclusion:

Tight grades of PSB brands It is advisable to apply for insulation of walls outside in those places where minimal contact with atmospheric moisture will be ensured or there is a reliable waterproofing.
Penoplex. It is good for work not only on the walls, but also to protect basement rooms where high humidity is present.
For mounting and higher accuracy of insulation jointsIt is advisable to use products with a chosen quarter from the edge.

In what cases is the insulation?

Despite many advantages of foam material, it is not always used:

It is not advisable to apply insulation of walls of housesMade of wood products: Breus, BRUSEV, etc. In addition to non-smooth surface, which will complicate the installation of the insulation, the wood itself has good thermal insulation properties.
To install the heat insulating material sheets A smooth plane is needed. This is due to the fact that the profile surface of the product has the same level surface that will provide a dense adjacent of the mating sides.
Protected design of the house Must have good adhesion to the adhesive mixture on which the foam is mounted. These include:
- walls from ceramic or silicate brick;
- concrete surface;
- gas or foam blocks and similar materials;
- plastered walls;

Installation work insulation It is better to apply on the back of the building, "it will help newcomers to get experience, and the masters will remember forgotten skills.
Do not chase for a cheap insulation- Subsequently, it can turn into large spending. Penoplex, although more expensive - but the properties are higher and the service life is much more.
Penoplex and similar material It is necessary to handle a needle roller or abrasive on both sides.
Work should be carried out by plots, that is, first make one wall, then another and so on.

The polystyrene is found very often. The material is quite popular due to not high cost and simplicity in the installation. How to thermally insulate the walls that you need to consider, we will analyze in detail in the article.

Polystyrene foam - material with a gas-filled structure is the most common insulator at the moment.

The material appeared on the market recently, but many developers immediately appreciated him. It is used everywhere, for thermal insulation, loggias, balconies, houses, garages and other designs. Consider the characteristics that have caused such popularity.

Positive quality material:

it is a good heat insulator, which allows the use of material not only outside;
moisture resistant - does not wet, even with long-term contact with water;
park permanent - despite its origin, the material allows you to "breathe" the walls of the structure;
does not rot, it does not appear fungal diseases;
well isolates the structure from noise from outside;
does not give a shrinkage;
environmentally safe;
it is inexpensive;
simple, applied.

Like any material in polystyrene there are minuses, but they are not so significant:

not resistant to chemical compositions;
it may start rodents, as the material is porous and soft;
the material may burn, although manufacturers are trying to decide this problem by processing it with special compositions.

These minuses are not so significant if the installation is correct, given these shortcomings.

Warming of walls at home expanded foam outside

Polystyrene foam, most preferably, with thermal insulation of walls. The useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room does not decrease, you can increase the layer of the insulator to 20 cm. When finishing the heat-insulated structure, you can apply a regular siding or professionalist.

Preliminary preparation of the wall

The process of insulation always begins with surface preparation. It is necessary not to just clean the wall from dust and foreign objects, but also to close all the irregularities, cracks, and prepare the material.

Attention! The plane for this insulation should be smooth and smooth, the differential should not be more than 3-5 mm.

So, the algorithm for performing work, such:

it is impossible to install polystyrene foam with significant differences to the uneven wall, since the emptiness is formed in places of depression, which will strongly reduce the quality of thermal insulation;
if the walls are smooth, then you need to evaluate the structure of the facade, for example, if the facade was previously painted, then the surface must be well cleaned. Paint will eventually begin to fall off, together with the heat insulator;
as soon as the old coating is removed from the walls, cracks, chips and other defects can be detected. Before dressing cracks, they should be squeezed by a perforator with a shovel nozzle, and primed. For disguise, it is possible to apply a solution of cement, plaster plaster or construction foam. The gaps are fought, after drying the foam is cut off. Square to smell with plaster.

Attention! The wall will be ready for sticking the insulation when, having spent on her hand, it will remain clean.

Heat slopes

The windows are the main source of heat loss, and on how qualitatively the heat insulation of slopes will be carried out, the quality of insulation will be dependent.

Work on the isolation of slopes is carried out in several stages:

the surface is well cleaned from pollution and dust. Remove the dried foam, which can be written after mounting windows;
protect the slopes into two layers for better surface adhesion and plaster mixture;
align the surface after drying the soil. Turning the slope is better than cement mortar. Make them you need as even as possible so that the polystyrene foam lighten to the surface. To do this, use a perforated corner, which is exhibited by level, with plaster.

As soon as the preparation is completed, and the solution on the slopes is completely drying, you can start warming. The algorithm is:

chop the insulation for the walls, the desired size;
apply glue on it, and close to the slope tightly;
if crops were formed during installation of the material, they should be made or embedded with a solution.

Blowing cornice

Before insulating the walls, you need to pre-crack the cornice, for this:

for bouncer karnis, you need to take the thinnest material that will stay on one glue;
the strips glue strictly from the wall;
first, it is necessary to fix the vertical elements, and only then put horizontal on them.

Material must be installed in such a way that he does not speak. If necessary, it should be trimmed with a sharp knife.

Steam barrier and waterproofing when insulating expanded polystyrene

Despite the fact that the polystyrene foam for the insulation of the walls is one of the best materials, besides, it is a vapor-permeable material, before installing it, you need to mount vaporizolation so that the condensate between the wall and the insulation is not formed. In this case, membrane films are perfect.

Steamoillating is installed on fully prepared, dry walls. If the walls are insulated with polystyrene foam from wood, the vapor insulation material can be installed on the brackets using a construction stapler.

The material is laid on the walls with an overlap at 10 cm, while the joints need to be punished with a construction tape. This will exclude the appearance of cold bears.

The condensate insulator from the condense or brick wall is installed using an additional fastening with an additional fastening.

After that, you can safely begin to prepare the material.

The process of preparing insulation when using extruded polystyrene foam

Since polystyrene foam differs from foamflast with a smooth surface, the plates need to be thoroughly prepared before gluing.

Manufacturers care about their customers, and these make this defects in production. In this regard, a material with a small corrugation appeared on the market, but it may not be on sale.

The main task of preparing the material is to make slabs with roughness so that the glue holds well on the surface. The polystyrene foam sheet is rolled by a needle roller, which is used to create curvilinear structures from the fastener.

All plates that are planned to be installed on the wall at once are rolled.

In case there is no roller, you can apply the iron brush. Material should be processed from two sides.

Grinding wall

The primer is selected based on the material of the walls. But the main requirement for the soil is that it should be deep penetration.

Before applying the soil, the walls should be washed to remove outdoor dust from it and soot.

It is possible to apply soil in this case after 24 hours.

If the walls are observed on the wall of white plaque (selection of minerals when weathered moisture), it must be removed by the iron brush.

Only after careful preparation you can start priming. If the surface area is large, for speed, you can apply a conventional spray gun for applying the composition.

Installation of foam plates to the wall

As soon as all preparatory work is over, you can start the installation of material on the walls:

Installation begins from below from the angle, and lead rows, rising up. The material is attached to the wall horizontally, while vertical seams should go in a checker order. For this, the angular layers on each second layer will be cut in half.
Turning spatula apply a layer of glue on the wall. The composition must completely cover the entire surface of the wall. Then, apply a slightly adhesive composition, diluted to the state of the network, to install the plate and align it in terms of light swing.
It is worth considering that the high-quality insulation of the house is polystyrene foam, in one layer it will not work, therefore, when calculating the material, it is necessary to take this into account. The second row of plates, glued with a shift, so that the joints of the previous layer when the house is insulated outside the expanded polystyrene, the whole plate was closed. The second layer of thermal insulation is glued to the source.

Plates for the first and second layer of insulation walls outside, one thickness should be purchased, for example, if it is planned to be placed in 10 cm insulation, then the plates of 50 mm thick are bought.

Installation of the grid on the insulation

The grid is starting to mount on the wall in a day, after the heat insulator is laid. It is necessary to prepare a solution, milking mesh, and apply it to expanded polystyrene with a gear spatula on the entire surface.

Print the grid starts from the angle, but only from above, straightening the spatula to the bottom until the reinforcement is completely in the composition. After the first strip is laid, the second begins to glue with the allen in 5 cm.

A perforated element is installed on the corners, with reinforced with sickle, so that the angle turns out to be smooth and has been protected from shocks.

If the laying on the solution does not work, mono do otherwise, at first stick the sickle, and then go through it with a solution with a wide spatula.

Further work can be continued only after complete drying of the reinforcement solution.

Preparation Before plastering insulation

If it is decided to plastering the house after insulation, then it is better for reinforcing PVC grid. It will last for a long time, since it is not subject to corrosion.

This mesh is mounted on the same principle as the sickle. The layer is cut off at the height of the wall, fix it from above from the angle, and begin to score the cells with plaster, thickness of 0.5 cm. It is worth performing work so that the grid is not sticking out from under the plaster, and fastened well to the surface of the insulation.

Application of the final layer of plaster

As soon as the layer of plaster with an inserted mesh is dry, you can begin to shock the surface, pre-impulsed it.

You need to buy facade plaster in dry and breed according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Watching is performed using a wide spatula, overlapping a solution with a small spatula.

For a good result, the plaster is applied in two layers, with each subsequent must be superimposed on a dry surface

After the plaster layers are dried, the walls need to sharpen, and after stripping, it is painted, or apply decorative plaster on the walls.

Finishing siding

It is much easier to separate the insulated building by siding. The material is not expensive, easy to use, while possesses a huge color hamme and imitation of various materials.

Before attaching the siding of it mounted a frame from metal products.

The work is performed as follows:

on the dowel nails, consolidate the guide profile, which is installed at the bottom - on the foundation, at the top - under the roof;
standing profiles are screwed to the guides that are additionally attached to the walls with direct suspensions. It is important to remember that between the insulation and facing material should be a gap of 5 cm. The suspensions are attached to the wall right on the dowel directly through the insulation;
after that, you need to mount jumpers in 60 cm increments.

As a result, the grille from profiles around the perimeter of the entire building should be turned out.

As soon as the design is ready for siding, you can start it. Regardless of the type of siding, the installation of panels starts from the angle and is made by rows from the bottom to the top.

Conclusion

As we can see anything complicated in the outside insulation of the house expanded by polystyrene foam, it may not even do this job, it is not a professional, just perform installation in a strict sequence.

The insulation of the house with foam is one of the inexpensive and simple ways to preserve heat. This method takes not a lot of time, but still when installing foam, some nuances should be taken into account. From proper surface preparation, the choice of material and installation may depend on the quality of insulation and the durability of foam.

Necessary materials

First of all, such material is acquired as a foam. Together with it uses:

Primer.
Tile glue.
Plaster.
Reinforced corners.
Fasteners (dowels).

For frame insulation of the floor and ceiling additionally need metal or wooden profiles, as well as sheets of chipboard.

Instruments

For the right and high-quality fastening of foam on the walls and the ceiling, you must get a drill. It is advisable to have a drill to it of different sizes. Exactly and accurately perform all measurements will help the construction level. For the kneading solution, a small container is necessary, and for its application - the spatula. For cutting foam, a construction knife will be used.

What is better: foam or minvat

When choosing a insulation, you should always carefully examine the characteristics of a particular material. After all, its quality and durability depends on it.

When choosing a foam, you can not doubt its heat and moisture insulation properties. This material is 98% composed of air and does not pass liquid and steam at all. Due to this, heat loss is significantly reduced in the premises of the premises.

Mineral wool also helps to keep warm in the house. With it, you can insulate any buildings. It is produced not only in the plates, but also in rolls and quite convenient when installing. However, this material is more susceptible to moisture. The cost of such a material also pushes many buyers. Therefore, for high-quality and inexpensive insulation of the house you can easily use foam.

Foam thickness for insulation

When selecting the parameters of foam, it is not necessary to stop on poor-quality material with low operational performance. For example, densitypolyfoam in 15 kg / m³ is suitable only for the insulation of the inner walls of the building. And to cover the house outside it is better to buy more durable with a density of 25 kg / m³. But to strengthen the slopes of windows and doors, as well as the foundations of the building it is better to apply a density of 35 kg / m³. Due to such a high indicator, it is possible to use thinner sheets.

Thicknesspolyfoam is selected according to the following principle: if the house needs to be well insulated and protected from a strong wind, then it is better to buy a thickness material about 15 cm. But if the building is located in a warmer climatic zone, then you can purchase the most common, having a thickness of 7 cm, because such a kind It will cost cheaper.

If the outer walls have significant irregularities, the foam can be used thicker to eliminate this problem.

But it is impossible to overdo it when choosing a foam characteristics. After all, very thick sheets can lead to technological problems. In some cases, when it is necessary to carry out pipes, it is impossible to use thick sheets. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase a foam of a thickness of 5 cm with a density of 35 kg / m 3 than to use 10 cm with a density of 25 kg / m 3. Such 2 types are comparable in price and functional characteristics.

But on average, for insulation of the house, the foam can be guided by such rules:

The basement, the base of the building, the slopes of the doors insulate the material with a thickness of 5 cm and a density of 35 kg / m 3.
The external and inner walls are better to sow a thickness of 7 cm and a density of 25 kg / m 3.
To protect against cold and wind ceiling and the attic is suitable with a thickness of 5-7 cm and a density of 15 kg / m 3.

The main thing is to purchase high-quality material that was kept in a dry room. Polyfoam should not be wet and yellow. It must be without any damage.

How to strip the house foam

To cover the house with foam, first of all, you need to purchase the desired number of insulation. For this, the overall area of \u200b\u200bthe outside wall walls is calculated, the door and window openings are taken away and the stock is added to 10-15%. After all, the material may be damaged or circumcised pieces may not come up. We must try to make as few seams as possible.

After purchasing the necessary materials and the preparation of the main tools, you can start the trim. For proper work, you need to follow technology.

How to insulate the house with foam outside. Step-by-step instruction

The technology of insulation of walls outside is as follows:

Preparation of walls.
Primer.
Installating insulation.
Puttalian.
Finishing the surface.

Preparation of walls Begins with cleaning the surface from the old coating, if it is. Brick or concrete walls are thoroughly cleaned from retired plaster, garbage and dirt. On the wall there should be no drop-off pieces of walls. When the wall has no damage, you can proceed to the primer.

If a fossa or crack was formed on the surface, then it is necessary to dissolve a small amount of putty and neatly the spatula to smear irregularities.

If it is not to get rid of this defect, it can eventually increase under the insulation, which will lead to the destruction of the wall and damage to the foam.

Stage printingthe surface is carried out for better grip insulation with a wall. To do this, it is purchased in the store of deep penetration primer and applied with the help of a brush on the wall. This process also allows you to get rid of unnecessary dust particles, which makes the wall smoother.

After such works, you can begin gluing the insulation. The most optimal material for this is tiled glue. It is convenient because it is very quickly divorced by water to the desired consistency and allows you to firmly glue the insulation.

The diluted glue brush is applied to the wall. It is necessary to wear a thin layer, after which it is for a few seconds to attach a prepared sheet of foam.

Pre-perform marking for placing sheets on the wall. Using the level on the surface, horizontal lines are carried out in the width of the foam.

Despite the fact that the foam on top will be covered with finishing material, it is necessary to put it as soon as possible. It is necessary to ensure that there is a small gap between the plates, as when laying a tile.

Puttail It is carried out after installing all sheets. This stage is in close-up of seams. To use for these purposes, tile glue is allowed with which the foam was mounted. You can take a special putty mixture. But in no case can not be chopped with a gypsum mixture. Otherwise, cold bridges may form, which will lead to the useless installation of the insulation.

After the seams of seams, the wall should be treated with starting and finishing putty. This is necessary so that the surface is perfectly smooth.

It is very important at the corners of the building to use reinforced corners that are sitting on a putty. They will strengthen the insulation, and will increase resistance to any mechanical effects.

After the wall dried, it needs to be treated with emery paper.

For convenience, you can take a wooden bar to which the paper is glued. This will greatly simplify the work. Now the surface is ready for processing by any finishing materials. Full information about the timber can be read.

Floor insulation and ceiling

In addition to the insulation of walls, it is possible to use the heat insulation method from the roof and from the basement side. It will protect the house from heat loss even more.

The most optimal method of insulation of the floor is the installation of foam from the basement. For this, the ceiling of the basement is cleaned, is processed by a mixture for sealing irregularities, it is ground and insulated with foam. After that, the seams are embarrassed, the putty layer is applied and any finishing material.

If it is impossible to install plates from the basement side, you can attach them indoors. For this:

Waterproofing is stacked on the wooden floor, the bars are stuffed, between which the foam is fit, waterproofing, chipboard sheets are stuffed.
Primerovka is applied to the concrete base, the bars are mounted, sheets are attached, covered with waterproofing, then chipboard sheets.

It should be borne in mind that before the insulation of the floor it needs to be carefully examined for the presence of cracks, mold and fungus. From this it is necessary to get rid of, otherwise the problem will develop under the insulation.

The insulation of the ceiling is made according to the same technology: preparation, primer, fastening profiles, foam, seaming, spit. Insulation can be mounted on the installed frame with a dowel.

For proper insulation, the house can be heard to the advice of professionals:

Starting the insulation is better from the roof, then move to the outer walls and the foundation.
It is necessary to choose the material of the suitable thickness and density so that there are no problems with its installation.
For a stronger installation of the foam, you can use dowels umbrellas, allowing you to maintain foam plastic.

Examine common errors when the facade is insulated in the video. Expert advice on how to choose the right material, as well as conduct insulation.

The process of insulation of the house by foam is quite simple. Material for work has a small weight, which allows it to be glued to the surface without installing the rails. But still you need to adhere to technology so that the result is as high as possible.