Technology of proper feeding of the Earth in the spring. How to disinfect the earth before landing seedlings all thing in the soil

2013-06-11

Sades whose sites are near the urban trait, do not know how to find organic fertilizers hard to find. Therefore, minerals use, and most often complex, which includes trace elements. Of course, everyone knows the benefits that trace elements carry. But not everyone knows that only a certain amount of them in the soil has a positive effect on the future crop.

What way of trace elements fall into the soil?

Zinc. The use of galvanized water storage utensils, which is used for watering, and predourcing the feeding to enter this element into the soil. It is worth noting that it is also absolutely unusable for watering and rainwater flowing from galvanized roofs.

Manganese. This chemical element is part of the mangartage, which we generously apply to the preparation of the solution not only for watering seedlings, but also for plants already in greenhouses and in beds. We ourselves destroy the whole positive soil microflora and humus.

Copper. It is contained in the copper vitrios and the Bordeaux fluid, to which we resort very often, but not always in moderation.

In general, mineral fertilizers should be made in the soil only when destroying the turf. And with the further regular use of ash and organic, they are in principle not needed.

Remember that when entering the soil of the mineral fertilizer, you, therefore, apply and land, and plants on it are tremendous. Self-garden in the fight against pests use watering with salted solutions. After such procedures, the soil loses its structure, it begins to crack in the sun and it is already simply impossible to break it.

Our advice!

Ammonium fertilizers, as well as ammonium, urea, potassium chloride and mixtures based on them, better than others oxidize the soil. The optimal acidity for many plants is 5.5 - 6.0 pH.

Almost all mineral fertilizers increase the acidity of soil. And in order to bring the pH to the norm, it is necessary to put the same lime to the ground. Therefore, when using fertilizers, it is necessary to strictly monitor the acidity of the soil. It helps to normalize various organic fertilizers, the main of which are manure, bird litter and compost. In addition, it is also possible to apply chalk, lime, dolomite and phosphoric flour.

Calcium, when it is introduced into the soil, improves the structure of the latter. As a result, even the clay of peatables begins to coagulate, capture in lumps and as a result - no longer sticks out. In addition to all this, many useful elements are available to plants. And therefore I. yield increase significantly Even without any additional fertilizers.

Therefore, in order for the soil to be healthy and brought a rich harvest, the following rules must be followed:

1. Make trace elements and mineral fertilizers in moderation.

2. In no case do not burn the polyvinyl chloride on the section, which the strongest dioxin poison is distinguished during combustion.

3. Do not use any quality soap solutions based on synthetic detergents. They have one important feature - they are stored in the soil of decades, from which the Earth is simply choking.

4. Best use natural means.

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Each gardener and the gardener dreams of fertile soil, on which you can smash and garden, and beds, and flowerbed. But over time, the fertile layer of the soil is thinned, there are sickness and pests. How to correct the situation, read in our material.

Soil shows its fatigue in different ways. It can turn into dust, be covered with moss or even rusted. But for each problem there are their ways to solve. The main thing is not to wait when your crops will become equal to the expended planting material.

Problem 1. The thickness of the fertile layer decreased

If you have grown a plant with a surface root system on one and the same place for a long time and saved on the feeding, then there is nothing surprising in thinning of the fertile layer. After all, your green pets probably used all useful substances on growth and development, and you did not make a sufficient number of fertilizers that would allow to normalize the situation.

What to do?

Try to make compost in the soil (3 buckets per 1 sq.m.) under the step. This organic fertilizer can significantly improve the quality of the "tired" land, ensuring the plants with the necessary trace elements.

Another excellent way is green fertilizers (Siderats). They can be sowing between the main cultures or the released areas after the harvest is already removed. It is best to select Siderats in accordance with the needs of the plants that you plan to fall on this site. For example, Lupine will become a good predecessor for tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, eggplants or zucchini. Mustard will help to fight nematode and prepare the ground for planting potatoes or winter. Raps suck in front of carrots or beetroot, as it will serve as an additional protection against viral-bacterial rot.

And the most suitable sites to improve the "tired" soil are perhaps legumes (peas, beans, alfalfa). Nodule bacteria on their roots enriched with nitrogen soil. And the perennial beans with a powerful root system also remove the useful substances from the deep layers of the soil on the surface.

If you do not plan to collect the crop of legumes, but decided to use them as a sediment, do not make plants before flowering, because the nodules on their roots are formed in this period.

And do not forget about the crop rotation. After all, as is well known, different plants receive nutrients from different layers of soil. Therefore, if the upper layer has become thin and lost fertility, plant plants with a powerful root system.

Problem 2. Soil is crumbling like dust

Suppose you are a conservative to the brain of bones and prefer to plant traditional vegetables on the beds (like cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage or zucchini), which require a large amount of nutrients. At the same time avoid fertilizers, believing that the crop should be environmentally friendly, forget about mulching, because your grandfather with a grandmother did not do that. But it's not averse to turn the soil and at the same time drunk the muscles. And therefore it is not surprising that once fertile land in your garden after a few years begins to absorb poorly moisture and scatters under the gusts of the wind.

What to do?

You can, of course, replace the upper layer of the soil, but it is quite expensive.

Try starting with fertilizers. Add 1 sq. M. 2-3 compost buckets, close it at a depth of 10 cm. It will take it with a soil and at the same time will make it more nutritious.

Pay attention to the type of soil on your site. After all, some types of soil, for example, sandy, quickly dry, almost without keeping moisture, and therefore require special care. Purchase them more often than once a year is not recommended.

So that the soil is not dust, inspired by it with girlfriends, such as young grass, straw, compost, sawdust, bark, fresh weeds. Mulch will not only protect the soil from further erosion. Decaying, it will work as an organic fertilizer, gradually giving up the useful substances with crop.

Be careful when mulching soil with fresh organic. In large quantities she can destroy your green pets.

Problem 3. Soil has become too dense

Solid wet land, in which it is not easy to stick to the shovel, may be a consequence of improper care. For example, if a deep peopling of clay soils, in which heavy loams turns out to be on the surface, it happens in rainy weather, then water and moisture-proof crust may form on the ground.

What to do?

Sometimes this is treated like this, so before the onset of cold weather, the soil can be slightly overheated to a depth of 10 cm. Experienced gardens believe that if you just dig out, but not to smash and not turn the wren of the house, then for the winter they should be labeled and become loose.

If clay was clay on the surface of the soil, you can add sand (1 bucket per 1 sq. M).

Also should be attracted to the area of \u200b\u200bthe rain worms. You can, of course, to accumulate them from a neighbor. But if the rain worms will be uncomfortable, they are unlikely to delay on your beds.

This invertebrates like the declaving organic. Therefore, it will be useful to climb the soil around the plants, for example, a spurious compost.

You can feed green pets with infusion from dandelions, which will also attract rainworms. For this, 1 kg of shoots and dandelion roots must be pouring 10 liters of water, and two weeks later stretch and dilute with water 1:10.

Problem 4. Soil scared

Often the soil acid is changed simply as a result of irrigation. If the water is soft - the acidity of the soil, as a rule, increases, and if rigid - decreases. Also at the level of acidity affects grown plants and introduced fertilizers.

What to do?

In this case, the loss of soil helps.

There are a number of plants that are not very well developing on freshly produced soil, so normalize acidity is preferably at least a year before their landing. Such capricious crops include:

beans
peas,
carrot,
tomatoes
cucumbers
pumpkin,
swede,
parsley,
celery.

Problem 5. In the soil a lot of alkali

Alkaline soils are not too often. Sometimes an increased alkali content is a consequence of incorrect agrotechnics. This happens, for example, if you are too carried away, deoxidizing the soil.

Soils with a pH above 7.5 prevent the absorption of iron plants. As a result, your green pets are worse developing, which is usually easy to notice the yellowed leaves.

What to do?

You can acidify the soil using the mulching of the rigoric peat, the cheese or the bark of the coniferous tree trees.

Mulching also prevents the evaporation of moisture, germinating weeds and wind erosion of the soil. It is best to do this in the spring or autumn after removing weeds, making fertilizers and surface loosenings.

It is impossible to mulk the soil before the plants go to open ground.

Problem 6. Soil Slapped

As the folk wisdom says, "better inadville, than reasons." If white salt traces fired on the soil, most often this indicates incorrect fobs of plants with mineral fertilizers.

What to do?

Salt, as is known, dissolves in water. After harvesting, try to hide the soil several times. Waters should be excess - up to 15 liters per 1 sq. M, but it is important not to overdo it so that your site does not turn into a dirty puddle.

As soon as the salt leaves into the lower layers, inspirate the soil peat.

Problem 7. Soil is infected with harmful insects and diseases

Insects, bacteria and harmful fungi in the summer will not be dreamed, in a shock pace population. And they dorms in the winter - including in the soil, in order for the next season to start a battle for the harvest with you.

What to do?

The easiest way to combat insects wintering on the plot is soil processing insecticides. Since the potential threat in the form of eggs and larvae of pests is hiding most often in the ground, in the store you need to pay special attention to Larvicides, destroying larvae and caterpillars, as well as on Ovicides, affecting insect eggs and ticks.

There will be no superfluous and mechanical ways of struggle. For example, if late in the fall step by the soil on the beds (without breaking the lumps), pest larvae will become bird prey. And a part of insects simply will not be able to break into the ground again and overhang.

Experienced gardeners believe that if the soil is shed with a solution with a solution of the EM-drug, it will help to weaken malicious bacteria.

It is also important to remove the fallen foliage, as the larvae of pests often winter.

In order to cope with diseases, there are also a number of drugs. For example, an alin b is a useful soil microflora intended to suppress fungal diseases. The drug is compatible with many insecticides, biopreparations, plant growth regulators and fungicides.

Problem 8. The soil was covered with a red rode

Not only metals, but also the soil, and even plants can "rust".

If for watering you use rigid water with a lot of iron, sometimes it appears on the surface of the soil and between the vests of plants. However, the reason for the appearance of a redhead on your beds can be both fungus.

What to do?

Usually in such cases, the soil free from plants is shed boiling water. If it did not help, in the fall, you can also use the preparation of phytoosporin-M (according to the instruction) or its analog, also the oppressive effect of pathogenic fungi.

It is impossible to dissolve biological products in water from under the tap, since chlorine contained in it will kill beneficial bacteria. It is best to use Tluu or rainwater.

In the future, it is important to water your green pets only stand up or soft rainwater.

Problem 9. Soil was covered with moss

Moss may appear on the garden, flowerbed and even on the lawn. Most often, the cause of this is the increased humidity, excessive shading, as well as dense or acidic soil.

What to do?

How to cope with the last two problems, we told a little higher. And in order to normalize the moisture of the soil, you can dug out shallow drainage channels around the perimeter of the site, in which the excess water will be drained.

It is also important to take into account that moss, like any weed, primarily captures free areas. So, if vegetables do not want to grow under the canopy tree, plant plants there, which are not bad for shadow, for example, fornet, fern or hydrangea.

Usually, the furnaces are removed by mechanical way. And if he tries to capture your lawn, slowly, but correctly displacing the grass, you can use iron sulfate (90 ml on 20 liters of water). For these amounts of solution, 300 sq. M. Square can be treated.

If your cottage is a place to relax, and not for hard work on the beds, try moving moss from the category of enemies to the allies. Gardens Mukhov today are extremely popular in landscape design. So if you are not ready to say goodbye to the old tree, shading a significant area, and do not want to pull the soil, at the same time polluting it with herbicides, just show a little imagination. And Moss will certainly give your garden tracks, as well as rockers unique flavor of antiques and calm.

Earth is not a dead substance at all, which exists by itself. Each hand is filled with many living organisms that directly affect the harvest. If you start to carefully care for the soil from the very beginning, to make the necessary feeding, to observe crop rotation, then our advice on how to return the soil of fertility, you will not be needed.

The development of the country area, where nothing cultural has long been grew - the case is unprecedented. How to make a bed that will give a good harvest for next year? The famous gardener and Gardene Nikolai Kurdyumov tells how to improve clay soil, sandy and the beds do with their own hands differ from ordinary.

My friend in his youth lived in the famous Stanza Starochkatskaya - the capital of the Don Cossacks. Poaming dona, chernozem meadow, two-meter, soft. And his garden was also on the site of old shelf stables.

I remember he sincerely complained: well, solid torment harvest to collect! Potatoes in Byriana - almost a bucket with a bush, swallow - two pieces in the bucket are no longer vicious! Of course, such a soil is improved - only spoil. She is enough to return so many organications as it grown on it. And dig it is a crime. But we have such happy places. My friend is just lucky.

To us, simple clay, to achieve good fertility, you need to work with the soil. And in order not to wait for years, it is better to immediately improve the soil in the beds - the first and last time, but radically. Oh, how many times I regret that I did not do it right away!

Improving the soil when mastering the site: where to start

If your soil is heavy loam, then you need humus, sand, and with the possibility of fine explosion of clay. If it is poor Spring, you need clay and humus. In both cases, a third of the new garbage volume should be an organic order who has overwhelmed in varying degrees. And only for a peatman need a fresh nitrogen organic agent: grass or hay, kitchen waste, unsuitable grain or spoiled feed. And also a little clay and sand.

The famous Austrian Permacultist and Farmer-Nature ZePP Holzer applies his way to quickly create a humus stock at extremely poor soils and in hard climates. There is a trench of 40-50 cm in depth and the same width. It is clogged with dry trunks, branches, rotting. This is the primary supply of slow organic and "sponge" for moisture for drought time.

Then the trench is burying, and in the Zeple version, the land is attacked from the sides, stacked in the shaft 70-100 cm high. The meaning of the shaft is a huge difference of microclimate. Solar atmosphere side is hot and dry. Solar leen is hot and more stupid, subtropics. Shadow without wind - wet and not hot, shadowing with the wind is not hot, but I blow out moisture.

From the shadow side of the plant will climb up, on the ridge. On the sunny - will go to go and fly, like on the beach. Given all this, ZEPP seeds the shaft with a mixture of different plants - cereals, pumpkins and zucchini, beans, corn and sunflowers - everyone that has large seeds and quickly increases biomass.

By the way, the area of \u200b\u200bthe shaft slopes is one and a half squares of its foundation.

The finished shaft is covered with straw or hay, strengthened from wind branches, and branches - longitudinal jerseys. Huge dignity of Vala - Early and Fast Ground Warming. A trove was formed between the ridges - they also put the branches in it and covered with straw. Roots will reach and here.

Sowing is done directly in a straw with a pointed cavalo. Seeds board after the rains. All plant residues remain on the ridge. A year later, potatoes and various trousers with tours, and pumpkins with zucchildren, and on the top of the corn on the top of the peak.

Beautiful, deep, natural! But I will say honestly: it is for the most passionate permaculture and personally by the Zegra owners of hectares. For my garden in three weaves - not an option. We are not used to climbing steep shafts and unwindingly mixed bush. We do not know the behavior of different plants. With the wave I will not take it. Therefore, leaning towards more common ways.

In my early books - "on John Jevonsu." In fact, all smart gardens and grapes do that. But it happened that: Jevons wrote a bestseller, I read it in the late 90s and was impressed.

John - American, a farmer-organist and the working, the inventor of "bio-intensive mini-agriculture" (Bimz). Harvests from his beds were many times more traditional - you see, it is impressive.

He began to invent on extremely foul, poor soil. Therefore, improved it immediately, and then increasing fertility no longer from scratch. The meaning is simple: it is necessary to mix the soil with an organic (and if necessary, then with sand or clay) to the depth of two bayonet shovels. Well, two bayonets are in hot california. We are quite a half (35-40 cm). And three or four shovels in width.

Jewons offers to mix the soil with additives, gradually moving in bed: removed the top layer, mixed up the bottom with the compost, returned the top layer, mixed it with a compost, advanced a little further ... I am doing easier. Having improving its clay bed with sand, the most fertile top layer take out entirely and folded from the edge. In the bottom interfering with additives and return the upper layer in place, I also intervene something.

The top, the most organic layer is removed, it is left. The bottom is mixed with sand. The top layer returns the same with sand. Only so I managed to radically reduce the density of my clay soil. The comfortable zone for the roots deepened almost twice. It remains to re-structuring the soil - it will take worms and roots.

So, take the best of both ways. We take out the upper 10-15 cm of the most fertile soil. We deepen the bottom of the trench depth in the bayonet shovel. In the trouser - login and thick branches, but nehlyo, so that the capillary connection with the subsoil is quickly recovered.

This burst is rapidly slightly sweeping in some nitrogen fertilizer, moisturizing the dung bolt or the contents of the biothetule - will rot to rot. It is useful to raise some fresh weeds - the same nitrogen. On the dry south, it is extremely rebuilt hydrogel, on a mug per square meter.

We return down the subsoil from the trove, pushing it between the woods. Surplus the subsidiaries we scatter in the aisles or export away. On the bottom we put one or two bands of immature compost or grass, arched by EM, "radiance" or other bioactivator. Then we fall asleep the garden with a removal upper layer ahead with additives (sand / clay) and humus.

It turns out a raised garden - a convex gentle shaft. The bulge adds plants of a pretty space and illumination, and the rays of the sun take better spring. For a raw non-black earth and - the perfect variant of the beds with their own hands. In the steppe zone need

In the following photo: the soil on the right is also improved. The refueling of the organic and bioactivator at the same time added soil heat. Eggplant harvest is 9 times more than from the left control bush. Experience A. Bushikhina, Yaroslavl.

Already a lot! But this is just the beginning. The soil is not yet inhabited by graveling, not sick, does not break the roots, it is not sowed by coarse coarse and other poop. Now we will improve its natural forces annually: plants, worms, microbes and mushrooms. But it is already not difficult. Our main occupation - feed soil worm and in a whole organic. Another important work - do not interfere. The rest will do themselves. And I assure you - will make so wonderful as you did not dream.

In the spring of one of the main tasks is to make feeding into the soil. What fertilizers to do this and how to feel the earth in the spring in the country, if there is no manure? This will make a story in this article.

Often, Siderates are increasingly used as a fertilizer in garden sites. Siderats are plants that sow, and then spark in the ground, thereby improving its composition. The following grain crops are used as sidewards:

buckwheat;
wheat;
oats;
lupine;
mustard and some other plants.

When planting plants on fertilizers, those of which are well developed roots and a large amount of vegetative mass are chosen. Such plants should have a small period of growth, so they go to the landing as a sediment . What plants plant to improve the soil depends on its condition. Lowned grain fertilizer equates to productivity to horse or cow manure.

Often Siderates are increasingly used as a fertilizer in garden sites.

The root system of such landings is well branched, it looms the soil enriched with its oxygenThe structure of the soil is improved, the riding layer of the Earth is heated. In the process of growth, such soil plantings are more saturated with moisture, its acidity is reduced, the soil disinfects. And these positive qualities of the soil retains for several years after the cultivation of Siderators on it.

Bean crops disembodied on the site are saturated with nitrogen and phosphoric soil. These elements contribute to the rapid increase in the vegetative mass of garden crops and fruit trees. And rye is potassium supplier to the soil. Rye grows very quickly, Therefore, it can be used as a sediment not only in the autumn period, but also in the spring, immediately after snow comes. For disinfection of the site, velvets or marigolds should be used. To fight successfully with the Colorado Beetle on the site, you should regularly use Pasternak or Lucerne as the Siderators.

Choosing that planted on the plot to improve the composition of the soil, it should be remembered that vegetable crops grow better after certain plants. Rye contributes to the better growth of potatoes, tomato or cucumbers.

In the spring of the plant as Siderats are usually planted in the prioric circles of fruit trees. These landings throughout the season will improve the soil with minerals and nitrogen, will not give rise and multiply by weeds, and at the time of the flowering of fruit trees these plants will attract flying insects and thereby improve the pollution of trees.

Organic fertilizers for cottages (video)

Undercalinking earth

In the spring, fresh manure is not introduced into the soil, because it can burn the root system of planted vegetable plants. Therefore, as a sort of soil in a spring time, overwhelmed horse manure or a korovak is usually used. Usually, the manure is harvested during the summer and autumn, but is entered into the ground only in early spring. This organic fertilizer satures the soil with nitrogenwhich is extremely needed by cultural plants in the period of growth - this trace element accelerates the growth of shoots and vegetative mass. In addition to nitrogen in the manure, other macro and the trace elements needed for the full development of cultivated plants in the garden plot are contained.

Usually, you should enter the soil immediately after the snow melts. Typically, this organic fertilizer is scattered on the site immediately before the soil patching after the earth will warm up after winter. However, when making organic feeding should be rememberedthat their excess is also harmful to plants, as well as shortage. On 1 m 2 of the soil, 10 kg of manure is made - such a quantity of this organic fertilizer is enough to saturate the soil with useful substances.

As a soil feeding in a spring time, overwhelmed horse manure or a korovyt is usually used

If the manure is not too much to prevent them all the garden, then this overwhelming organic fertilizer is brought directly into the landing pits.

A dung alive in the spring can be used as a feeding. It is prepared as follows: the reworked manure is bred by liquid (5 liters of water takes on 1 kilogram of manure). Such Liquid feeder fertilize the spring fruit trees and planted vegetable plants. Especially responsive to such feeding berry shrubs, strawberries, apple trees, pears, bone fruit trees.

The introduction of reworked manure improves the composition of the soil, so it is used as a mulch. The introduction of this organic fertilizer helps plants faster and better absorb imaginary mineral feeding. Therefore, experienced gardeners are introduced during spring manure into the soil.

When in the spring of overwhelmed manure did not turn out, it can be replaced by wood ash

Than to fertilize the earth, if there is no manure

When in the spring of reworked manure did not turn out, it can be replaced by another organic. It can be:

chicken litter;
riding peat;
overwhelming compost mass;
sawdust from trees;
straw;
wood ash and other similar fertilizers.

These feeders when entering into the ground contribute to disintegration, enrich the exhausted soil with the necessary macro and microelements, help increase the authentative mass and develop all cultural plants on the site.

How to apply mineral fertilizers (video)

When and how to feed the earth in spring mineral fertilizers

In addition to the organic, mineral supplements should be made in the spring period. The composition of such fertilizers of gardeners are selected, given the general state of the soil, those cultures that will disembark on specific sites and many other factors.

The deadline for making mineral feeding during the spring period depends on when snow melts in the garden. Scatter such feedstocks for non-staging snow is not worth - Most of the fertilizers can "float" along with melt water. You can make mineral fertilizers in the rolling circles even when the Earth did not completely eliminate. But under disembodied vegetable crops, mineral supplements pour straight to the immediately prepared wells.

The deadline for making mineral feeding in the spring period depends on when the snow melts in the garden

In the spring, the following mineral fertilizers contribute to the soil:

Containing nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, urea, ammonium sulfate). These feeders accelerate the gains of vegetative mass by plants, stimulate the growth of the root system, contribute to the preparation of high yields.
Compound phosphorus (superphosphates and double superphosphates) Fertilizers are also very important for plants in spring time. After all, these trace elements stimulate the growth of plants, as well as their development. The norm of such fertilizers is considered to be 1 cup per 1 m2.

Using mineral fertilizers as spring feeders, it is necessary to clearly adhere to all instructions for the use of these additives, as well as the doses required for the introduction into the soil. At the same time, those types of soils are taken into account in which fertilizers are made, and those plants that need to be contacted.

The basic minus when making mineral feeding in the spring - their possible washing out of the soil during the spring rain.

Using mineral fertilizers as spring feeding, it is necessary to clearly adhere to all instructions for the use of these additives.

Features of nitrogen fertilizers

When making nitrogen fertilizers, the following features should be taken into account:

Nitrogen contributes to increasing the vegetative mass, the rapid growth of the shoots and the root system, therefore bring it to any plants and trees during a certain period - in the spring and early summer, when these cultural plants are actively growing. But during the period of flowering, fruiting and subsequent preparation for winter nitrogen should not be made in order not to provoke in trees and shrubs an excessive growth of foliage to the detriment of ripening crop.
The amount of nitrogen in the soil should be sufficient for plants, but its grisges are harmful. Therefore, it is not necessary to get involved in the introduction of organic fertilizers (especially a cowboy or other type of manure) and adhere to certain norms when making such fertilizers.

Nitrogen contributes to increasing the vegetative mass, rapid growth of shoots and root system

Universal fertilizers for garden and garden crops

There is a large number of comprehensive fertilizers, in which there are all the necessary mineral elements and other nutrients needed by plants. The introduction of such complex feeders makes it possible to immediately enter all the items that are necessary. Moreover the composition of such fertilizers may be different - Depending on the type of soil and the features of the growth of cultivated plants grown on the site.

When using these feeding, you must adhere to the instructions for their application and in no case reduce or increase the dosage without necessity.

The word "weed" most dacket is familiar to pain (in the lower back, tired of endless). And of course, I want to get rid of these "hostages" forever. Moreover, it is desirable - without unnecessary work. Well, let's look for ways ...

Handsome dandelion - malicious weed. Photo

Immediately I must say: my list does not pretend to be considered exhaustive. Moreover, the methods collected in it are very different - there are "lazy" among them, and there are those that will require efforts. Some methods have a lot of opponents. But my deepest belief: to choose, you need to know. It is impossible to blindly rely on someone else's opinion and someone else's experience - you should search and pick up what is suitable for you and it is in the best possible way.

Therefore, I invite everyone to the discussion: Share your experience, confirm or refute the effectiveness of the methods and methods described, complement and expand my list!

Method 1 - Traditional

With the fact that the soil needs to dig, today many argue. We will not argue - not about that now we are talking about the ways of treating the Earth. For those who are interested in this issue, I recommend to read the article. ... and numerous comments on it. And to combat perennial rhizable weeds, the rescue and plowing remain one of the most effective methods.

Yes, this is a rather laborious process, and he has its drawbacks. But here, let's say, I have a plot on which nothing more than two years ago did nothing but. How to quickly win the earth quickly, if the entire top layer completely consists of some roots? I have not yet found a response to this question. Therefore, digging the roots manually carefully choosing the roots.

Pumping is a way to combat weeds. Photo

Here exist different variants. For example, dig no shovel, but forks - so much less chances to damage the rhizome, cut it into pieces, from which new weeds will grow.

You can plow the virgin with the help of a motor-block or tractor (if any). In this case, choose the roots will be more difficult, but according to the experience I will say: such a treatment helps literally for the year or two get rid of wormwood, reurenik and the like plants with a very powerful and deep root system - a shovel of them to cums like.

Method 2 - Chemical

I do not like this method myself and never apply. But perhaps, for some situations, it turns out to be the only acceptable, although in the garden I would not recommend it to use under any conditions - poison, which are herbicides, he is poison. In addition, on some plants (for example, the same) these drugs practically do not act.

Borschevik Sosnovsky - weed, stable even to herbicides. Photo

It is true that the herbicide of a new generation appeared - Agrociller, able to destroy even such "monsters". But I always torments the question: and what will happen to the soil in which the drug will fall? With insects or other living beings, which may accidentally stumble upon the treated plant? ..

If you want to learn more about the chemical way of fighting weeds, our publications will help you in this difficult question: and armed with knowledge, you can look into our catalog, including the proposals of many large garden online stores to.

However, the choice of material for mulching the soil should be taken very carefully. So, under the black film, the earth may overheat; Ruberoid is able to allocate resin, the harmlessness of which is under a big question - and so on. Similar nuances are important to understand and take into account.

Successful alternative to synthetic shelter - organic mulch. Only pouring it to a thick layer (5-10 cm minimum). It is also suitable, and beveled herb, and the wood bark - we have already spoken about different types of mulch, it is described in more detail about its use in articles and. And in the next video, you will see how you can combine materials: in this case, it is a cardboard plus wood bark.

Method 4 - replacing

Where appear weeds? That's right - where there is a free, empty earth. On the soil engaged in landings, weeds are usually small, and this is more often annuals with which it is much easier to cope. What is the conclusion from here? There should be no empty area!

Partly the task decides the mulch, which was mentioned slightly higher. But there are other options. For example: the garden was freed after the early greenery or the cleaning of Luke - sowing it or spend fast-growing vegetables.

Facelium is an excellent cider and a remedy for weeds. Photo

Sealing landings are also a solution to the problem. Of course, it is necessary to compact with the mind, so that the plants are not closely, and the harvest did not suffer. But with a competent approach, you can get beautiful beds, and get rid of weeds - they just have no place to grow.

Details of this method and its visual demonstration can be found in our publication.

You can find seed seeds to improve the soil and combating weeds in our catalog where the offers of large garden online stores are collected.

I was able to significantly reduce the number of Snyth in the old dacha. Regularly broke her shoots manually (it was not possible to use the tool - weeds died in viburnum thickets) and used torn grass as a mulch. Perhaps two more two - and with a dream it would be finished ... But I left, and the experiment was interrupted. But with the Borshevik, who already mentioned in this article, a similar method to fight is at all useless - it will grow even after repeated moldings.

For those species that can be depleted with miseivation, the most important thing is not to hurt the roots. Therefore, it is desirable to use or sickle - chippet (hoe) here will be less convenient.

But in our catalog, among the proposals of various online stores there are all kinds of tools, and you can choose the one that will fit you in the best possible way.

Hoe petal 79 rubles
Russian vegetable

Hoe blade with plastic handle 89 rubles
Russian vegetable

Haze small combination 79 rubles
Russian vegetable

Fokina large plane (for main soil processing and all works) 398 rubles
seedSpost.ru.