How to make an ax do it yourself: a master class for the manufacture of the axle, drawings with dimensions and sharpening scheme. How to make a good topopone for the ax - step-by-step instructions and drawings how to make a taiga hatchery with your own hands

He is a real "king" of carpenter tools. He is a true salvation for those who woranled in the forest. He is a faithful assistant if you need to roll firewood for a bath, build a house or partition to game. A well-sharpened ax can be applied in dozens of other situations, but the fact remains a fact. The tool will be useful on any country household.

The only difficulty that may arise from a business man is to buy a good quality ax. We are increasingly convinced that much easier and more reliably to build a toporishche with your own hands. So let's consider the whole process of manufacture, ranging from the workpiece of the ax and finishing sharpening.

Manufacturing of the Toporist Stepgovoye

The process of creating an ax is always in a strict sequence. First, the tool handle called the axle is manufactured. When the length and shape of the handle are chosen correctly, the tool is literally "burning", demonstrating high performance and ease of use.

Try to take a stick with an ordinary round cross section and plant an iron basis. You quickly get tired, because holding a similar tool for a long time, the hand is experiencing a strongest voltage. Another thing is when the axes for the ax has a curved shape, the tail part is expanded and a little bent down. Thanks to such a design, the axes are firmly held in their hands even with strong blows.

The traditional tool of the ax consists of wedges (2 and 9), blades (3) and footage (1), sock (4), chamfer (5) and heels on blades (6), beard (7), actually solid (8). Figure 10 marked sharpening.

Cooking the material and cut out the first pattern

Since it is necessary to make a topopriste with you from a tree, we will take on the basis of this material. The best structures made from birch and oak, ash and maple have proven itself.

Wooden ax can be done at any time of the year, but the material for it is better to harvest in the fall, even before the onset of frosts. The billets are stored in the attic at least a year, some experts advise to dry their five and even more years.

It is clear that if a taiga ax donated with her hands was broken about an impregnable deck, you can take a fresh tree. Such an option will still be temporary, because after drying the volume of wood decreases. The hood of the ax will begin to stagger, keep less tight.

For the workpiece of a good template, the drawings of the future product are desirable.

When there is a cardboard pattern, it is much easier to transfer the contours of the designed product to the tree. As a basis, a ready-made handle of the ax is taken, with which you can work comfortably. It will work as a simple pencil on the cardboard and carved.

PREPARATION FOR BROUSE

From bar-workpiece to careful peeling

Before making an ax, it is necessary to outstretten a bar of the dried chocks. Keep in mind that the length of the bore must exceed the planned size of the finished product by about 10 cm. As for the width in front of (sitting on the canvas), ideally it exceeds the diameter of the eyelet from the metal by 2-3 mm.
Enter the finished template on the bar and transfer its contours. Leave a 1 cm allowance ahead, and in the tail part of the workpiece - 9 cm. Before you put an ax onto the toporishche, you will apply the handle for more than a dozen blows. The allowance in the "tail" is needed to avoid its splitting. When the final assembly is completed, you can cut it without any problems.
We proceed to the main part of working with the ax. In the upper and lower part of the bar are made of transverse props of a depth, not reaching 0.2 cm to the contours. To rock extra wood along the propilov, the chisel is used, the final cut is done by rashpil.
Use the usual file or rasp to round the corners, arrange smooth bends and transitions. Sanding paper will help when performing final grinding.
Placing the steel sheet while early - wood is soaked with a good waterproof composition. Flaxseed oil is suitable, the oil has excellent properties. Apply a small part of the substance on the toporishche, let dry. The next layer is then applied. The procedure is repeated until the tool you personally stop absorbing it.
A gross error - cover the wooden base with varnish or oil paint. However, nothing prevents you from adding a little dye into Olif (red, yellow). A bright tool will never lose in thick grass.

How did our ancestors choose the canvas for the axle?

Several hundred years have passed, but the method of buying a good canvase has not changed. Our ancestors knew how to make an ax from a tree and which metal base to use. They always paid attention to:

The quality of steel. By the way, today this question is solved simply. Look for a GOST icon on the product - this will be an indicator of excellent quality. NO OST and TU!
Blade. The perfect blade has no cracks and dents, very smooth.
End shoes. They are strictly perpendicular to the blade.
The form of the eye. Better when it is made in the form of a cone.

How to put an ax on the toporishche (video)

When the cloth is chosen, it is quite a legitarily question: how to properly put the ax on the axle and achieve a "dead" fastening? Start with drawing axial lines on the end. There will be two, perpendicular and longitudinal. The groove to the depth of the eye needs to be cut through along the contour of the longitudinal line. Propyl will be useful for the expression of the ax.

Put the eye to the end, outline on it the contours of the eye - axial lines will be a guide. To trim the planting part of the axle, use a knife or branch. It is important that the axle does not speak to the edges of the eye of more than 1 cm.

Place the canvas convenient with the help of hammer blows. Do it exactly, with effort, but without too much pressure. You do not want the wood cracked from your blows, right? As soon as the end went beyond the borders, check the strength of the landing, we look at how the canvas sits. It should not slip.

Wedge wedge embroodble or method of cropping

You can enhance the fastening of the metal part, if you make the folding. To do this, a small wedge is rushed into the ends, made of solid wood - for example, oak. Because of this, the landing size is growing, and it is fixed "tightly".

Some folk craftsmen use not one, but two or even five wedges. But as practice shows, even one additional fixation is quite enough.

Collection of the ax. Drawing

Verified way to sharpen the blade of the ax

The axle of the ax is an initial task after its tool is made and ready to use. Only in this case the product will perform the basic function.

To work with a freshly dredged tree, the sharpening angle in the ideal tool is 20 degrees, dry wood - from 25 to 30 degrees. The width of the chamfer is equally important.

Shooting an ax manually

How to sharpen the ax on the usual electrical

Follow the capacity in advance in which you will cool the metal. Next do this:

Keep the product in such a way that the blade can be sent towards the rotation of the disk. The volatile kept at an angle of forty-five degrees. This is the optimal sharpening angle, regardless of the type of tool, its features.
For sharpening an ax, it smoothly moves along the circle. The chamfer grinds, the angle of the sharpening is sharpened.
The final sharpener of the ax is always performed by a special grinding bar. From time to time it must be watched in water for cooling the metal.
If there is no possibility to sharpen the Topor Bru, it is replaced by a piece of plywood, which is placed by sandpaper.

Do not forget that it is always nice to work with a sharp tool, while a stupid ax is more extra and completely unnecessary efforts, fast fatigue and not the best result. After the workmanship and sharpening of the ax completed, the cover is put on the blade. This will extend the life of the product, and it will be necessary to sharpen it so often. The case is made of leather, barks, any other suitable material.

Case for the ax

It is the opinion that the tool can be stored in a log. This is a big misconception. Consisting of strong steel and made by the helm of the axle, the ax becomes a "continuation" of the hands of the master. Try to chop firewood homemade tool - and you will no longer want to return to the store products.

How to make your own hands at home is a good, reliable ax?

By converting a regular ax, you can give it the special properties necessary when working. Such an ax will serve much longer and better than the usual store. The hunter in the taiga could not do without a reliable ax, which should be universal as possible. There are many axes on sale: from large and medium-sized construction and carpentry to small solids suitable for various economic needs. But the taiga ax should possess special properties that can be given to a conventional ax, converting it.

The topor with steel soft and weakly tempered should be preferred ax with "dry" steel. When painting the blade, this lack is easy to eliminate the sharper sharpening. Shape sharpening should be parabolic, but not razor and not straight (Fig. 1). The ax does not join such a sharpening in the wood, the firewood is good, less stupid. With sufficient sharpness, such a blade is quite suitable for carpentry. Much in understanding of rationality gives the forms of old Russian axes, as well as the axes of Lesorbov Carpathians, North America, in which the upper edge of the blade never forms an angle greater than 90 ° with the axis of the axis of the axis. All axes are available on sale have a wide blade and protruding upper edge (Fig. 2). The shaded part sharply reduces the EXPOR's efficiency, since at the moment of impact, this part seeks to break the ax, creating in it. Unnecessary vibration, and thus quit the blow strength. To eliminate this disadvantage, the shaded part is removed. It is easiest to do this, drilled along a cut-off line of contacting holes, and to remove the abrasive part.
The direct blade of the ax must be changed to the convex (Fig. 3), if the blade quenching width allows. The straight edge is designed only for carpentry work, and when such a blade rubs, then simultaneously touching the whole edge and hitting the tree at a right angle, it has a weak penetrating ability. Each point of the convex edge enters the wood under an acute angle (Fig. 3), the cutting effect occurs, as a result of which the penetrating ability of such a blade increases sharply. Despite the fact that the weight of the ax after processing will decrease, its efficiency will increase. The author proposes two variants of the ax (see Fig. 4 and a photo). One of them is lightweight, designed for running hunting, small trips, also for fishing hunting in the presence of a saw. The total weight of such an ax is 800- 1000 g, the length of the axle is 40-60 cm. The other is heavy, for fishing hunting and long-distance travel, during which significant work has to be held. His weight is 1000-1400 g, the length of the axle is 55-65 cm. The choice of the length of the axle is determined by the quality of wood, the growth and force of the hunter.
Of course, the axes manually worked with blacksmiths - better and in steel and in the corner and balance, but there is one very capricious detail - a wooden pipeline. This item must be made by special technology. Making a toporishche, a wedge and landing of the ax far longer and more difficult than turning the ax (even, probably, Damasky) check how high-quality the ax and landing is made - much more difficult than checking the quality of the axis itself. In addition, the axle requires special daily care and certain content conditions. If all items were not fulfilled, the total is always one: either the ax flies or the axes break. Correcting the ax correctly, you can proceed to the manufacture of an ax. It should be thin. The smaller its weight relative to the weight of the ax, the stronger the blow. The axle should be flexible: a hard hatch "dries" hand. In cross section, it has an ovoid, but compressed shape with a more acute front and rounded back edges. It is best to produce an ax from a compence part of ash, maple, elm. You can use and whipped fine-layer birch. The most suitable komal thickness for the workpiece of the axle is 35-40 cm. Crude Comer must be split, then dried with squatched ends.

The axle with the longitudinal location of the layers (Fig. 5) is stronger. The center of gravity is found in front of the axle of the ax (Fig. 6). Usually this point (C) is located at the base of the eye. Then the middle line of the ax, passing through the middle of the bread and the top of the blade edge through the middle of the center. This line is a tangent for which the ax will move when hitting.

If you put the blade with a point in perpendicular to the average line AB to the plane, the end of the axle will have to touch the same plane at the point C. The middle line of the axle (PR) is performed, the point P is on this line and falls from the plane of SV by 3.5-4 See the cutting of the axle is clear from fig. 5, where the shaded parts of the workpiece must be cut off. The distance from the lower edge of the eyelers (point K) of the maximum bend point of the axle (point O) is 10-11 cm. At the point of hand holds an ax during carpentry. In this place, the cooler circumference is 12-13 cm, and the most subtle place at the end of the hatch is 9-10 cm. Finally, the thickness is adjusted by hand. The toporishche ends with a locking hand with thickening in the form of "fungus" (clearly visible in the photo). Such an ax is indispensable in cold and rain, when on the hands of gloves or mittens. "Mushroom" allows at the time of work to relax hands. The strength and accuracy of the "relaxed" axes do not compare with the blows of the ax, which has to keep tight, fearing to release it from the hands. On the workpiece under the "fungus" the thickening is provided in advance; It is processed in the last place to eliminate the chips when the ax was nozzle. Getting started to the nozzle, it is necessary to place the workpiece. Customizing the axle, should constantly check the angle of planting the applying of the ax to the plane (in fig. 6 is the line SV). In the axle, fitted for two thirds of the depth of the eye, on the same depth, it was done under the wedge (Fig. 6), after which the landing place is finally customized. Before the climb of the wedge, the axle with an arched ax is useful to dry for two or three days.
Immediately after fitting (or after drying), the ax is removed from the axle, the adjacent parts are abundantly lubricated with BF-2 glue and the ax is finally planted. On a pre-prepared wedge of a solid tree of wood (ash, maple, elm, apple tree, a pear) also apply glue and wedge clogged. So that the wedge does not break when driving, they make it short. For complete drying of the glue, the ax should be dried during the day on the battery or in the stove. Finally, the axle is treated by hand, shook and impregnated with olifa or flax oil.

The finished ax remains sharpened. A lot of strength and time will save the ax if his blade is always sharply sharpened. It is useful for this to have a plywood pocket carved in the size of the paddle pocket, placed on two sides by a waterproof eye-coarse and micron. Such a plywood is enough for the whole season if the ax does not require a serious flow.

"The man is not a fur coat warms, but an ax" - Public wisdom says. An indispensable assistant in the farm, the "right hand" of any carpenter is all about a completely simple tool called an ax.

Whether it is an ax for cottage or for professional use, the demand for this tool will never disappear.

Conscientious attitude to operation, the ability to properly prepare a tool to work, will help not only avoid trouble, but also serve as a guarantee of the successful end of the planned work.

Experienced masters know how to make an ax. Having understood in technology and having studied practical recommendations, make a topor with their own hands will not be difficult and in the unprofessional.

Covering nozzle for ax

When choosing a stitching metal part for the future ax, the quality of the material deserves special attention. Made according to GOST parts, that's what you need.

It is worthwhile to avoid marking MRTU, the OST or TU on the nozzle, because these designations allow changing technologies in the process of pouring the part (third-party third-party substances are possible).

When you hit the blade about another, there should be no serifs on both. Fully excludes the curvature of the material, the presence of any kind of dentin, the curve of the blade axis.

The significance of the handle

It is possible to select the optimal length of the axle on the basis of the growth parameters of the wizard and the impact force. The force in turn directly depends on the length, so when working with a large ax, it will make it easier to cut the lamps of firewood.

Before making a choice should be decided on the desired result:

the hard version of the tool (total weight is 1kg. -1.4 kg., The length of the handle from 55 to 65 cm.);
lightweight option (weight 0.8kg-1 kg, with a length from 40 to 60 cm.).

The quality of wood, from which the Toporishch will be made is greater significance. For the manufacture, not every breed of wood is suitable. Often, for this purpose, birch (parts are near roots or stem growths).

There are also handles from oak, acacia, cock and other hardwood. All selected blanks need long drying.

After the wooden billet seeks well, the contours of the handle are drawn, according to a predetermined pattern. To avoid slipping hands while working and increase the convenience of the ax, at the end of the handle it is necessary to provide thickening.

Cut the outline will help the knife, chisel, electric jigsaw.

After fitting the axle of the ax and not finding any signs of a loose fit of the parts, you can safely continue the improvement of the ax. Glass will help bother the tool, and sandpaper is useful for grinding.

Handle setting

The correct execution of instructions on the nozzle will lead to an excellent result:

The eye of the stitching part must be adjusted under the top of the ax, the extra part of the wood is easy to remove with a knife.

Make a label on the axle, where the stitching part will end. To do this, it is necessary to put the handle of the lying, in order to avoid admission of inaccuracies. The resulting segment is divided by half, make the appropriate label.

Holding an ax, standing, you need to do it up to the second mark. It is made with a metal with a metal and is used for a wedge.

Stretching a wooden wedge similar to a pre-acquired metal. The width is equal to the size of the eyes, the thickness of the product is from 5 to 10 mm., And the length is equal to the depth of the cut.

Putting on the table the board, you need to put a stitching part on it, located upside down. Next, you should wear this part on the handle and slowly start tapping them about the board.

Periodically, it is necessary to change the method of tapping from the stitching part, to tapping the ax.

As soon as the stitching part logs in the eye, you need to put the ax vertically and insert a wooden wedge. Hoven for metal will help to sprill all the not necessary materials, which, as a result of the nozzles, will be on top.

At the end, oil is applied to the handle, and the product is perfectly dried. The correctness of the execution can be compared with the photo of the ax in the cottage placed below.

Sharpening blade

In order to avoid harness arising at the time of work, it is necessary to accommodately approach the blade sharpening. Regulatory indicators of GOST compliance:

sharpening angle for construction work is 20-30 °;
for carpentry skill 35 °.

Compliance with demands in the magnitude of sharpening is very important. The inconsistency of the degree leads to the fact that when cabing with an ax, the blade is stuck in the wood.

With primary sharpening, minor damage, shcherbinki and potholes are eliminated. After the secondary sharpening is carried out. The end of the process is the grinding process performed by fine-grained bar.

The instrument performed by the personally according to the instructions is always the best ax that can be in the country.

Photo of the best options for cottages

"Well, give my stone ax" - Probably there is no person in our country, who would not hear this song. Yes, the first axes did from stone. But this time has passed many thousand years ago, and now for the manufacture of this product use high-quality wood and steel.

During the development of civilization, many varieties of this tool appeared (building, volatory, etc.) which still did not lose its relevance. Moreover, in the market you can find many varieties of this product, which is intended to solve certain tasks, for example, which are facing a hunter or tourist.

Classification of axes

In practice, many varieties of axes are used, which are designed to perform work with wood. Conditionally, they can be divided into three types:

koluna;
for forest harvesting;
construction or universal.

Accordingly, there are various versions designed to solve certain problems, for example, a fireman, equipped with a pickaxe, with which you can thaw from the hearth ignition focus and other designs.

By the way, the size of the axle can be determined on the basis of the growth and physique of a person who will work with it.

Production of the workpiece

From the bar, which passed drying, squeeze the bar. Work should be carried out along the fibers. Brous size should be 100 mm more than the size of the finished product. The size of the part where will be installed, and the blade itself should be 2 - 3 mm to exceed the size of the eye.

The pattern prepared in advance should be put on the surface of the bar. At the same time, leave an allowance for processing. From the front of its size is 10 mm, in the tail of 90 mm. This allowance is needed in order to have a handle, when taking it to her own ax. At the end of the work, this allowance is removed.

Putting the Toporishchi.

To bring the item to the necessary sizes, in the upper and lower part of the workpiece you need to make two cuts, but their depth should not get to the circuit of 2 mm. Excess material can be removed using the chisel. After that, using a file with a large notch, align the angles, transitions and other surfaces of the handle. For finishing surface treatment, an abrasive skirt is used.

Impregnation with waterproof composition

To increase the resistance of the handle to the effects of moisture, special compositions are used. But it is permissible to use olive or linseed oil. The handle covers this liquid until it stops into it to absorb.

The tool handle should not slide in the hand and therefore, it is not recommended to cover it with any paint and varnish materials or use any lining.
By the way, it does not prevent add to the waterproof coating, coloring pigment, for example, orange. Then the tool with a bright handle will not disappear on the site.
Choosing, a stitching part, be sure to find out from which steel it is cast. In our country, GOST 18578-89 was adopted. It determines the stamps of steels, of which it is permissible to make the blades of the ax. These are steel - 8khf, 9khf, 9xc, HBH, U7A, U8, U8A, U8G, U9, U9A, and many other similar properties, named brands.
Farming of an ax on a handle
Landing the blade on the finished handle should be performed using markup. To do this, on the upper end, it is described sketch of the eyes. Then it is necessary to outline the length of the crossing part. And after that, you can start the installation of the blade on the handle.
After selecting the tool, the owner gets a new task - how to sharpen it. Yes, the manufacturer, supplies this tool in the ready state. But sooner or later, the sharpening, performed in the factory workshops, will fool and the need for self-edit. Practice shows, it is better to spend a certain time on his edit, than to perform work with a blunt tool. Treatment of product is advisable to perform with a template. It is made independently. To do this, you will need a small piece of tin. After selecting the sharpening angle, it must be denoted on the tin and cut the angle. After that, attach a template to the blade. Immediately the angle of deviation from the required will be visible. Using the marker, apply the appropriate labels on the cut edge.
When sharpening, the master must take into account the following factors:
Characteristics of wood from which he will have to work. What work will have to perform, one thing is a blank of sawn timber, another cutting of locks on the logs installed in the log house. Of course, it is necessary to take into account the material from which the blade is made.
How to make a battle ax
Not all axes can be purchased in the store, for example, it is impossible to buy a battle ax. And therefore, if there is a desire to get such a product, it is easier to make an ax with your own hands.
As a basis, you can take an ordinary building tool, see Fig. 2., And from it to make a combat blade.
It has certain disadvantages:
It has an irrational form.
It has an excessive mass, which will be interpreted to make manipulations during the battle.

Battle ax "Viking"
It is impossible not to note that the upper protrusion will create difficulties during cabbage and strikes. That is, he gives the ax an unnecessary moment, directed counterclockwise, thus there is an increased wear of the ax. It does not hurt to run and the protrusion located below. In addition, the straight sharpening is not quite suitable for a combat ax.
How to make an ax from a tree
How to make an ax from a tree? To do this, it is necessary to prepare a wedge-shaped billet, from which you need to make a blade. On the surface of the workpiece you need to make the outline of the future toy. Excess material can be removed using an abrasive sharpened.
At the next stage, on the end surface of the workpiece, it is necessary to designate the contour of the hole under the axle. The technology of obtaining handles is described above, but it is necessary to correct the size.
Bringing the blades and handles to the required form can be done using sharpened or file. After a fairly short time, the children's ax will be ready.
Which product is needed a hunter, which spends a lot of time in wildlife conditions, as it can be done. Yes, no one argues, in specialized stores you can buy a product for every taste. But, not all of them meet the needs of hunters.
In order to make the cutting part of the product for hunting, it is required to use a solid piece of metal. But somehow we are more familiar to keep the ax with a wooden handle. For the manufacture of blades, steel grade 1040 is used, it is structural alloy steel, a Russian analogue - 40g.
You can make the cutting part by ordering it with a rustic blacksmith. The wizard is able to roll the necessary workpiece under the blade. He is able to make and install a steel handle. If such a handle does not suit, then you can install a wooden one. With its manufacture, it is necessary to take into account some simple rules:
The handle can not be lacquered - the hand will slip.

When choosing its form, it is necessary to take into account the width of the palm of the palm, it is necessary to make stops that will allow the ax to hold the ax in the hand.
How to make taiga ax
Before making a taiga ax, you need to understand how it differs from the traditional? He has a different form of blades and the parameters of the ax. That is, you can take a conventional ax. Change the shape of it sharpening, remove excess material at the top, by analogy with combat.
To remove excess material, you can apply an angular grinding machine.
Toponiste can be made of birch. For more reliable fixing in the blade to its end, you can wind the bandage, with impregnation of epoxy resin. The handle itself makes sense to impregnate with flaxseed oil.

If you live or work in a taiga, it means that you should be equipped with the right tools. Mandatory equipment includes not only saw, but also an ax. Many make a mistake when choosing this tool and believe that you can cope with carpentry craft. Today we disassemble what the perfect taiga ax looks like and can it be done with your own hands.

Features

Not only in the taiga need a high-quality ax. All lovers of permanent and long hikes will like this attribute. This tool is needed not only for the preparation of kebabs. There is a list of cases that cannot do without this attribute. Namely:

cutting trees;
processing of false logs;
production of coolers and samols;
construction of a shala;
skipping logs along the fibers.

Looking for the whole list, we can safely say that the work is mostly coarse and requires strong and durable uniforms. Mostly taiga ax uses:

fishing hunters;
huntsman;
forester;
tourists;
geologists and any other person who is going to Taiga.

Components

It is necessary to consider from which major elements the ax is:

The axle is different from a carpentry tool. In the taiga ax, it is much longer. With it, it is easy to make scope and hit the wood. The optimal length of the axle is approximately 50 cm, and in some cases more. It should be not difficult, otherwise it is impossible to succeed in the taiga.
Head. This part is also different from a carpentest tool. There is no top of the blade in the head. If you need an urgent axis to turn into taiga, you can apply to yourself.
Blade. For efficient work, it is specifically spinning. Such a blade is widely used in the taiga.
Beard. This part fixes an axle and head among themselves.
Butt. The taiga happens that not only an ax, but also a hammer. This part can easily replace it. It is convenient, you do not need to carry a hammer with you, especially those prefer to tourists.
Eye. This part allows you to put on the head on the ax. For the reliability of the whole design, it will be necessary to inside the eye of the eye, drive a wooden wedge or a conventional thick nail. It will not let the head jump.
Fungus. This part serves solely for safe use. It is fixed on it in a comfortable position and do not sculpt.

Below is a taiga ax. The drawing will show where and how every item is located.

Characteristics

The taiga ax is a tool that will help you in everything. There are conditions that must be observed:

ease (the frequency of use may affect fatigue);
the handle must be ergonomic (the ax for each man should be as an individual costume - only in size);
the main severity should be in the metal head.

For fans, we offer to make all your own hands to use our next master class.

Independent production

We offer to supplement your shares such as a taiga ax. With your own hands from the workpiece, we will make a real masterpiece. Before starting work, we will prepare everything you need. This includes:

head from a carpentry ax;
obuch wooden;
bulgarian;
metal clins.

We present a step-by-step lesson:

With the help of the grinder, you need to give the form of the ax. It should be similar to the taiga instance. If there is a rust, it must be deleted. To do this, use a petal disk.
If corrosion damaged metal from the inside, then soak the head on the day in vinegar. Remains believes brushed.
Cooking the Toponiste. In our case, we propose to take it is strong and solid.
Crerate the head and volatile with each other with epoxy resin. Additionally, turning the bandage, take the clins from the beech.
All the superfluous spire and be sure to lie down.
Cock the ax.

Since the volatility is first of all a tree that is subject to reference, it is worth handling it. Make impregnation with special oil in several layers. Additionally, the product will get a fortress and waterproof.

You can also make an alone protective case for the ax. He will protect against unwanted injuries.

Sharpening rules

In order not to get injuries, the ax should be sharp. Cut sharpening can be manual and mechanically. Consider each of the methods individually and we will analyze the basic rules of sharpening tools.

Manual method

For this method, a lot of free time will be required, as the case is quite troublesome. If you approach with a special trepid, then before sharpening you need to make a special template. For this you need:

find a piece of tin;
select the optimal and faithful sharpening angle;
make cutout.

When the template is ready, go to the main action:

apply a template to the blade of the ax;
we look, whether there is an angle of deviation;
we apply with the help of a marker mark;
we proceed.

If you chose a manual sharpening method, it is better to do it with a bar with medium grain. The final barcode can be carried out in the smallest view. Bruus also has its own nuances:

the round shape is preferred;
material - small sandstone.

Professionals advise sharpening the blade from themselves. It is also noted that if the dealetants are taken for business, then the blade is blown off, and in some cases and "sharpeners" break.

Mechanical method

If there is something on hand, you can use it. To carry out the procedure, you will need the following:

apparatus itself;
the ax with the blade;
grinding stone with two working surfaces;
promotional paste;
marker;
correiler;
funds for individual eye protection and hands.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

The machine should stand on a flat and solid surface.
The working surface should be without flaws.
If you need to update sharpening under the existing angle, mark the desired area with the marker.
Sharpe the blade from myself.
If the angle is suitable, then consolidate the result with the help of a convection paste. Grease the grinding circle and polish the ax.
Be sure to apply a means that protects against corrosion.

Adoption advice on sharpening

If you sharpen an ax using a mechanical way, then you need to do it at low speeds.
Do not sharpen the grinder.
In sharpening it is not necessary to hurry.
To the ax for a long time, I do not mess around, keep it in a protective case.
Never sharpen an ax without personal protective equipment.
If you doubt your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

Safety at work

The ax is a rather dangerous thing. So that the campaign does not turn into a sad journey, remember the tips on the rules of operation:

The head should not hang out on the toporishche.
When chop, put the wood under the wood.
Do not throw the taiga ax to the Earth.
Do not try to cut a stone or metal with this tool.
When working you need to make comfortable positions. There should be a lot of free space around.

Purchase

If you like constant hiking or engaged in hunting, then such equipment is necessary as the Taiga ax. Vacha is the most common model among this tool family. With it, quickly and easily distortion and handle wood.

If you want to purchase the ax, the taiga isged, then look so that the protective case is in the kit. A distinctive feature of this brand of tools is the handle. It is made of strong birch varieties. The tree is impregnated and processed.

We looked at how to make taiga if it is not possible to make an independently, you can always find a product in the store.