How to independently preparing the floor under the laying of laminate? Base under the wooden floor: Possible options and preparation stages Wood preparation

Laminate on the role of the flooring chooses more and more owners of apartments and houses. It is rational, since the material is beautiful, has a good service life, easily fit, forms smooth coating. To the flooring aesthetically looked and worked by the manufacturer's declared years, the preparation of sex under laminate. Without such a procedure, the coating can quickly come into disrepair.

The norms that the foundation must match

One of the parts of the answer to the question is how to prepare the floor for laying a laminate, is concluded in existing SNiP norms. According to the documentation, the base should be even, with a height difference in 2 mm at each meter of the surface. This means that it is not enough to measure the deviation in general on the room using laser levels. It is necessary to carefully examine the surface in different directions.

Coat manufacturers declare that reduced the requirements for the base. Preparation of floors under laminate can be simplified. Using special substrates, the material is allowed to lay as height difference on the floor to 4-5 mm on the temporal meter. But these norms are quite strict. Even a thick substrate, if the preparation of the base was carried out negligently, quickly wipes and the coating will begin to deteriorate inevitably, show deficiencies.

Common work for all types of foundations

Before purchasing laminate, it should be inspecting the base for its flooring. The floors are evaluated by the strength and nature of the existing coating. For instance:

durable parquet in good condition does not require dismantling;
laminate can be put on a good ceramic tile with some assumptions, provided that its surface is configured to the SNiP standards.

With other types of flooring, you need to work. Remove the finish flooring and cleaned the basis. For instance:

flooring from the board is cleaned from paint, linoleum, removal of glue and contamination residues;
concrete floor is released from coatings, ceramics, a solution and glue is removed.

After cleaning, it is necessary to carefully estimate the surface. If lags and floorboards in good condition, there are no zones of rot, mold - the flooring can only be subjected to cosmetic processing. The same refers to durable screeds with a fairly smooth surface.

If the wooden flooring has destruction, and the screed is covered with cracks or scattering zones - the answer to the question of how to prepare the floor to laying the laminate, simple enough: it is necessary to remove the existing flooring to the interlaced overlap. This work is long, will require forces, time, to dismantle the layer of concrete need special tools.

Evaluating the quality of the existing basis is rational. If only a few boards are damaged on the wooden floor - they are replaced. Similarly come with zones where the tree rotted. Deep cracks in the screed can be seen by special adhesive compositions. To do this, they make several slots of the grinder perpendicular to the direction, then slightly expand the gap, clean and smear, aligning the surface.

Cosmetic work on parquet

Consider how to prepare the floor under the laminate if it is covered with parquet. This basis is considered the best option, as it is rarely destroyed, relatively easy to repair and requires only cosmetic alignment procedures. Stages of work look like this:

strongly destroyed planks are removed, replaced;
the preparation of the floor to laying the laminate is to cyclove the surface of a special installation or in the processing of manual belt grinding;
careful cleaning of seams is performed.

The preparation of a parquet base of work with mastic and anti-flapred compositions. The first is watched all the seams (at the same time, with some sealing, the bonding of all elements of laying among themselves passes), the entire surface of the parquet is processed by the second.

Since the preparation for the laminate of parquet flooring is carried out by a cyclical machine, you can level significant throws of height. This will require care and accuracy. Even parquet with unscrewed zones or crawling apartments after cyclove, mastic and impregnation processing - will turn into a good base under the laminate.

Work on interconnecting

If I had to remove a concrete screed, the preparation of the floor before laying the laminate will include the construction of a new base. In this case, it may be necessary to solve quite complex tasks. Theses we describe some of them:

with a strong step of throwing altitudes (in some apartments, it can be up to 100-140 mm) It is reasonable to build a screed using perlite and adding fibrovolocone. What a fiber fiber is read. It is light enough and durable;
good results, if necessary, compensate for a strong level difference showing bulk floors from cement-based mixtures and gypsum. They dry quickly, have good strength. Such preparation of the base under laminate is carried out using the compositions of the class "thick gender";
in order not to increase the load on the intergenerational overlap, it is recommended to make a minimum thickness tie. For cement-sand mixture and ready-made compositions of this class, the height of the layer should be 35-40 mm.

When creating a new screed - the preparation of the floor under the laying of the laminate should necessarily include waterproofing. It is made by a polymer film or rolled materials, the strips are put on a mustache, with an occasion of each other and the walls of 100-150 mm.

To ensure the lack of problems with a screed after the finish coating flooring, you must be installed on the perimeter of the room by damping tape. It will prevent the formation of cracks, damage to the walls, create a waterproofing of the contour, will reduce the level of vibration noise.

Wooden floor alignment

Replacing the boarding house

If the number of damaged boards on the existing floor is large or there are large zones destroyed by rotting - can be replaced with flooring. For this, the old coating is removed. In the presence of a material in the case when lags are in good condition - feed new boards. If there is no such possibility - on the supporting brusade stelites Phaneur.

In the most difficult case, it is recommended to remove the entire wooden design and create it anew in a lightweight form. To do this, on the surface of the inter overlooking, the grid from the bar is located, according to Phaneur. Such preparation for laying a laminate gives another opportunity: the gaps between the lags can be covered with granules of clay or polystyrene, increasing heat and noise protection.

Cyclical and Alignment Mastics

To level the average values \u200b\u200bof the height of the wooden floor, it can be treated with a squamous machine. Such preparation for laying a laminate takes a little time, but it is used when the thickness of the boards is sufficient for removing the planned layer of wood.

If it is not possible to remove 10-20 mm boards - you can align the surface with mastic. To do this, flooring is cleaned with a tree, treated with anti-flap impregnation, then with coating methods are covered with ready-made construction compositions for wood work.

The preparation of the flooring for laminate laying can be made using a simple composition: PVA glue mixed with small sawdust. Such a mixture will quickly dry, forms a solid surface, adhesibly to a wooden base.

Sewing auxiliary materials

Preparation for laying a laminate by stripes of sheets of plywood or other material is used if the heights of the heights are quite significant. Also, the method shows good results if the deviation zones are unevenly distributed over the total area. As a covering material, depending on the nature of the wooden flooring, it can be applied:

chipboard sheets are the most stringent, hard;
oSP sheets that have a good balance of thickness, mass and strength;
different thicknesses characterized by excellent indicators of moisture resistance, strength and durability;
wHP sheets used as a cosmetics.

Preparation for laying the laminate by the methods of existing floor firmware may include the use of mastic or mixture of PVA and sawdust. Aciders are used if the sharp drop area of \u200b\u200bthe coating level is rather localized. The recess is filled in fully or partially before the flooring of plywood, chipboard, OSP or DVP.

Bulk floor

Use liquid self-leveling mixtures is rationally and fairly inexpensive in the case when the preparation of the floor under the laminate is carried out with a small height of heights and on a reliable base. For example, with such parameters:

the heights of the screed height ranges from 5 to 10 mm (large indicators can be reduced by treating the concrete of grinding);
a rough screed was created to align the strong step of throwing the heights of the interlated overlap from the plates;
it was done in which the warm floor was stacked.

In such greenhouse conditions, it is not difficult to make an ideal surface under laminate. The finished self-leveling mixture is divorced according to the manufacturer's recommendations, it is poured into sectors, stretching with rochel, is a needle roller to remove air. Control the level of the fill is needed on the markup, which is pre-done with a laser level.

To form the finest layer, the mixture is applied by a painting brush. It is worth remembering: For each case, you will need to choose the self-leveling composition of the class "thin floor" on a polymer basis. Some of them allow the creation of 1 mm coatings, others are recommended to pour a thickness of 5 mm. But it does not reduce their main dignity. After operation, a perfectly smooth, durable surface is formed, which is better suitable for laminate.

Laminate is a multi-layer floor covering, the basis of which is a fiberboard. Despite the fact that it is made on special technology and thanks to this, it acquires special strength, with the slightest deviation from the option of proper laying, all the negative properties of this composite material will quickly appear.

First, moisture. This also applies moisture-resistant varieties, as the unprotected side part is suffering. The storage and operation of the dies in the insufficient dry room can lead to fragility, swelling and complete loss of strength in the lock connections. In no case do not fit such a floor to concrete with high residual moisture.

Secondly, transverse deformations. Durable in the massive part, the laminate can still break if the emptiness under it, and very vulnerable to the loads in the castle area, where the layer of DVP is thin. The alternating up-down movement is very quickly overwhelmed. And this happens if the coating is put on the uneven floor, and it bends when driving.

Third, noticeable tubercles on the ground. They, as a rule, premine the entire sheet, and the most upper protective layer begins to braid in this place. Spot appear, in the future such a laminate can swell away from moisture.

The laminate floor should be laid only on the dry, derived into the plane and the aligned surface without volumetric defects.

Since such floors differ in special humming sound, the soundproofing substrate with a thickness of up to 3 mm spread to this material. It is wrong to think that it can smooth out the obvious unevenness of the floor. The only thing that the substrate is capable of close - small cracks in concrete.

The base for laminate is prepared with a maximum drop in a horizontal level, having a value of 3 mm for every 2 meters of the floor. Not allowed noticeable waveform of the surface, there should be no inclusions of rubble on the concrete screed. To achieve good quality under laminate, it means to save money on its replacement.

First stage - Evaluation of the complexity of work and the choice of a method for preparing the basis

When planning laminate laying, it is assessed by the need for preliminary work and decide on the method of preparing the floor, based on such considerations.

Floor condition.
The height of the room.
The need for sound insulation and insulation.
Dedicated budget.
Available at your disposal time.

Each of these factors can make adjustments to selected training technology. If, measuring the horizontal of the concrete floor, you notice a significant height difference, then the entire rules require a two-layer fill: a concrete screed and self-leveling layer. But this means large financial expenses and a long drying time, about 6-7 weeks.

You can consider a faster option of laying the base of the floor, dry tie or floor raised on the lags. True, in this case, the floor will become higher, and this may be unacceptable if the height of the room is only 2.5 m. Then it is worth thinking about the alternative - floor alignment with plywood without using lag. Take the right solution stands at the earliest stage, so as not to complicate the following work.

Methods for the preparation of concrete floor under the laying of laminate

It is performed only where the overlaps are able to withstand concrete floors. If the repair is made in the house of the old building, this method does not apply.

Stages of performing wet screed

Height difference revision. If the difference is more than 2 cm, do not do without fill with the first layer of coarse cement-sand mixture.

Concrete works.

Waterproofing or priming the floor is performed if there are no cracks at the base.

At a distance of approximately 1 m from each other lighthouses are exhibited Using a laser level. It can be segments of bars, profile.

The solution is mixed according to the instructions and is poured on the floor. A long rule seems to match the level specified by beacons. After a few days, the beacons are removed and the holes are filled with a mixture. Expect a 50% strength set to continue working with the floor. Usually you have to wait 4 weeks.

Apply the finish layer. If the error from the horizontality on the very relief area is less than 3 centimeters, you can do with applying only a layer of self-leveling mixture, without a rough screed.

Concrete is thoroughly cleaned from sara and dust. If the layer of the mixture is large, the reinforcement of glass cholester is used. Carefully stir the mixture to a creamy state. Poured, moving up with a wide spatula. Rolled the entire floor with a needle roller, the change of the mixture is not frozen.

Control of durability. The floor can be flattened only when the concrete mix is \u200b\u200bdrying. There is a reception that allows you to evaluate the readiness of the screed to further work. On her evening, set down the grit glass jar with a capacity of 3 liters. If drops are noticeable to the morning on the inner surface, it means that the floor is not sufficient enough. Laminate can not be laid on a polyethylene substrate to protect against wet screed. Concrete will collapse, mold starts under the film. It is harmful to people living in the apartment, and does not benefit the floor.

Performed both on a concrete base, and on top of the old wooden floor. This method of preparing for laying laminate has several advantages. The material is usually used as a bulk base, a lightweight material and having a low thermal conductivity material.

Sometimes the dry sand of a large fraction is used. The sand has no such insulating characteristics, and it has a considerable weight. Therefore, the sand pillow should be performed only in a small volume when the floor needs a slight correction. A layer of vapor barrier or simply polyethylene film is placed under dry tie.

The gap between the screed and the wall is made up shock-absorbing and quenching sound with a gasket, for example, from isolon. Exhibit lighthouses by level.

A thoroughly leveled horizon is also tightened by the horizon sheets in two layers with overlap of seams. Between themselves, the layers are often fastened with self-draws. Other leafy materials are not allowed to apply the phaneer, oriented chipboard, chipboard. The last material allocates harmful connections, so it needs painting.

Even if you perform fasteners from thick plates, you can not limit ourselves to one layer. It should be noted that the dry screed is not so durable as wet. Over time, the ceramzite and sand sit down, irregularities may occur on the floor. Laying a more subtle material in two layers will smooth out a geometry disorder. And with this method, the leaf edge is practically eliminated, possible when laying one layer.

If the budget limits the use of two layers of expensive material, but I want to achieve a good quality of the base, you can lay the lower layer of drywall, and the top of plywood. In this case, it is sufficient to fix the screws in the seams after 10 cm, with an indent of 5 cm.

In the case of a sufficiently flat wooden floor with some traces of wear, it is simply restored and covered with sheets of OSP or plywood.

List of necessary work

Identifying scripting floorings. They need to be attracted to lags by self-draws.
Replacing the facial side of the most worn boards. Roll over the boards - the option of correcting the situation if there are significant damage on them.
Applying putty on the most notable gaps and irregularities.
Removing protruding hats nails.
Then the Fauer or OSP are filling onto the floor, be sure to lay the sheets so that the joint is obtained by T-shaped, in other words, the seams must lie with overlap. This will help to avoid the situation of the bumping of the edges of the sheets at the place of their connection under the laminate. Under Phaneur it is to pave a layer of substrate, for better leveling, heat and sound insulation.

The situation is worse when there is a noticeable lowering of the part of the floor due to bad lag. The floor must be opened and conduct a thorough inspection of their condition. Perhaps some are loosened, some need to be replaced in whole or in part. Those elements that are not too securely strengthened by bolts. For lags, put gaskets to achieve the desired level, if necessary, add insulation. Boards are placed in place, fix with self-drawing. After that, it is embarrassed by alignment by flooring sheet material.

Very uneven, but durable wooden floor can be aligned with a small layer of dry screed, usually from sand, having it right on top of the boards. Works are carried out with a substrate from a polyethylene film, so floor plywood in two layers.

But the situation is not always possible to do with simple means. May be required flooring a new floor on lags with heat insulation laying. This is a more difficult job that takes place in such a sequence:

laying sound insulation under lags;
corps the perimeter of the room by Brukes to the horizon;
installation of logging on gaskets, at a given level. They are oriented across the movement movement. For the horizontal installation, various ways of fastening the lag to the base are used. You can use adjustable fasteners, you can simply add an additional gasket layer under them;

It is important that the lags have a gap with the base. It is needed for free circulation of air and protect the tree from damage.

installation of bars in the direction perpendicular to lagas. They will serve as supports of the edges of plywood or osp. In order not to reduce the height of the floor, these bars can be attached at the same height as the lags, with the help of the corners. It is clear that bars are installed at a distance selected in accordance with the size of sheets;
laying thermal insulation into space between lags;
flooring sheets. Each joint must lie on the bars. Between the sheets leave a small gap, enough 2 mm. Nests are centered under the self-tapping screws. The fastener itself is placed along the seams in increasing about 15 cm, indenting the edge is about 2 cm. The walls should not lie near the walls. A distance of up to 2 cm is allowed, it is easy to overlap the plinth.

The finished wooden base should satisfy the requirements of horizontality, not to remember when walking, do not have protruding parts of fasteners.

Prepare a smooth and durable basis, you can start laying materials that significantly improve the operation of the floor from the laminate. We are talking about vapor barrier and substrate.

Laying a layer of vaporizolation should not be neglected. Protecting the base from the penetration of water vapor, it will not give accumulate moisture and protect the finish coating from damage. The laying is carried out by overlapping strips with overlap at 15 cm. And the bottom layer should be on the walls with the allowance. Putting separate vaporizolation does not have to be in the event that such a layer contains a regular substrate under the laminate. If the substrate manufacturers do not declare its qualities, it means that you will have to protect against the pair yourself.

Depreciates the steps, quenches the sounds, prevents heat loss through the floor a special substrate under the laminate. It is produced in the form of sheets and twisted into the roll. It may be synthetic or cork.

Having a foam structure, a synthetic substrate levels and the smallest irregularities of the base, but over time loses its volume, and, as a result, its properties. The cork substrate is stable, perfectly saves heat, significantly reduces the sound of steps.

All types of substrate under laminate are mounted. The clearance is needed only by the walls. After laying the substrate, it is neatly and carefully fasten with a painting scotch. The base for laminate is fully prepared.

High-quality flooring for laminate is of great importance in order for this beautiful and practical finishing material to show all its advantages to the fullest.

Modern laminate is a material for creating a functional and elegant environment in any dwelling. Its installation is convenient and most simple as possible, and the care of it does not cause any problems. But all his positive qualities is capable of demonstrate only if you correctly prepare an outdoor base under its laying.

In situations where the laminated coating is mounted on a poorly aligned floor, it quickly fails and loses its wonderful appearance.

Installation of laminated coating

A variety of irregularities and gaps of a concrete screed, tubercles and a wooden base gap are literally deadly for laminate. This is due to the fact that in such sites, the lock connections of laminated products are experiencing severe overload. Naturally, excessive loads lead to laminate outlet. In addition, the material of interest to us is afraid of moisture penetrating it from rotten wooden boards or from a concrete base.

If you do not take care of the replacement or high-quality sealing of all gaps on the old floor, the entire outer gloss of the laminate will come to no. And after a while on it and it will not be possible to walk. At the specified reasons, the preparation of the foundation for laminate must be carried out truly responsibly and efficiently. Only so you get at your disposal a practical and beautiful floor in the dwelling, which will be used not to use one decade.

All work on the arrangement of concrete or wooden base for laying a laminate is easy to perform with your own hands. And you will need to be stocking only the simplest tool:

Electrode with a mixing nozzle. This device will be required to stirring the mortar for a cement screed.
Level. Optimally use a laser device to determine the irregularities of an outdoor base. But if it is not, the usual construction level is suitable.
Rule and spatula. These tools are required to align the screed.
Hammer and screwdriver. With their help, you will prepare the bases of the wood.

In cases where flood alignment is planned by bulk compositions, purchase a special needle roller. Next, proceed to the purchase of materials necessary for the preparation of the floor. These include phaneer and chipboard (working with wooden base), sealant, construction dry mixture and plastering (treatment of concrete surfaces).

Floor alignment by bulk

Also need to competently pick up. It is very important, as it acts as the function of the heat and waterproofing material that protects the laminate from water and cold. Substrates are the following types:

Cork. Eco-friendly natural products. They preserve warmly, but they are afraid of moisture. Under plug insulators should always be additionally placed polyethylene film. And then they will perfectly perform their function.
Polyenestylene. These substrates are not susceptible to the negative impact of moisture. They do not appear fungus, microorganisms do not come to them. Polyeneetylene materials are available at a price. Tip! Do not attempt to fit such films in two layers to increase their effectiveness. The result will be reverse - the risk of violation of the single design of the laminate and substrate will increase.
Products made of coniferous wood. Such substrates are usually made to order. They are great in operation (environmental purity, providing an ideal microclimate in the room, durability), but objectively expensive in cost.
Bitumen-cork. Products created on the basis of craft-paper. Perfectly protect floors from moisture and retain heat. For the price they are slightly more expensive than polyethylene films.

After selecting the substrate and the preparation of the required tool, it is possible to immediately begin to perform the intended works with your own hands.

You need to remove all the items from the room, remove the room well, without leaving the debris of the garbage on the surface of the old screed. Ideally, it is desirable to use the usual household vacuum cleaner for high-quality concrete coating cleaning.

Household vacuum cleaner for concrete coating

If you see that there are no significant defects on the basis of substantial defects (depressions, irregularities), just get it, and then proceed to laying laminated boards. If the status of an old screed is not the best, it must be updated. Do it on the following technology:

You knock down all the available influx and tubercles on the surface of the screed.
Any tiled glue makes the detected cracks on a concrete base.
Apply primer to the floor. Use extremely solutions of deep penetration for these purposes.
Mix the purchased self-leveling composition with water (the required proportions are always available on the packaging of the mixture). At this stage it is important to obtain a flawlessly homogeneous solution. Do not allow even very small lumps in it.
Perform the fill of the new screed. The mixture should be supplied to the most upper part of the floor base. From there he himself spreads along the floor. You will need only to distribute it as uniformly as possible and remove air bubbles from a poured coating by pumping it with a painting roller. If you do not take care of the destruction of air in the screed, it produces a large number of microscopic holes. They will reduce the quality of the fill made.

Singing the self-leveling composition will be about 24 hours. But remember! Laying the laminate to a new screed can be carried out only 2-3 days after soaring the mixture used.

With such floors, it is a little more difficult, although they are aligned without the need for time consuming and dirty fill with a new concrete screed. You will need to carefully analyze the state of the existing wooden coating, to establish the presence of cracked or bumping parts, make sure that the boards are sufficient.

After that, try to remove with your own hands the most problematic sites so as not to dismantle the entire floor. Install new places in the room. Now check the evenness of a wooden base. With high-rise drops up to 3 mm, no subsequent work can be performed. Start equipping the floor with laminate. But when bulging (depressions), more than 3 mm will have to do with the leveling of the old coating. This is done in such ways:

remove or drive into the wood sticking fasteners;
attract all the floorboards as close as possible;
align the outdoor base of chipboard (chipboard) or plywood.

Alignment of wooden base under laminate

We will tell you about the latest technique. You need:

Wooden base is cacked with plastic film (you can lay this material solely on the problematic sections of the floor).
Split plywood or chipboard for the required dimensions and put them on the boards at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other. It is impossible to mount closely aligning products - they will get straightened about the edges of the adjacent plates.
Secure Chipboard or Phaneur universal self-drawing (or stainless screws). Hardware put without spare. The optimal distance between the individual fasteners is about 20 cm.

In situations where the outdoor base is very uneven, laying of plywood and wood-chip products in two layers are allowed. At the same time, make sure that the shake of the lower sheets does not overtaken with the top of the top. You made your own hands perfectly level. Boldly on him!

A very small number of people lays a tile on the wooden floor. Of course, such builders are familiar with all the secrets of this process. For most homeowners, such a combination is not very desirable because there are many opinions regarding the incompatibility of the tree and ceramic tiles. The main explanation is that the tree flies faster, begins to move, which causes damage to the tile on top. However, such consequences arise when laying the tiles on the wooden floor was not entirely correct.

One of the main reasons for laying ceramic tiles on such a floor is the need to ensure excellent sanitary and hygienic conditions in rooms with high humidity. As you know, the humidity destroys the wooden floor. Protects the basis of moisture, because some of its kinds can be perfectly resisting to her.

Laying tiles on the wooden floor is always carried out by the standard way.

All differences, various occasions are only in the preparation of the foundation.

In this case, it is simple to prepare the base. Preparation begins with a thorough revision of the agony. This process is to remove the flooring and the assessment of their condition.

Revision of festivals

Also evaluate the status of the lag. In the case of damaged boards, they are looking for a replacement. Before collecting all the elements into a single design, they are treated with antiseptic substances.

If necessary, the overlap is insulated. Often for this use clamzit. It is falling asleep with a flat layer. On top are wetted by cement mortar. You can apply polystyrene foam or minvatu. In the second case, you should take care of. It is placed under the insulation.

Warm overlap

Next collect wooden flooring. To do this, lugs with a level. After placing the boards. They are also checked for drops. If some chalkboard is too low, cardboard, rubberoid or fiberboard are substituted under it. The resulting surface is putty.

After on top of the flooring, we need to put moisture-resistant plasterboard. It is fixed using two-component polyurethane glue. The design can be strengthened by posting another layer of plasterboard. It is created so that the seds of the following series be covered with sheets of a new layer.

Important: The material is put so that the gap between it and the wall arise. Each seam needs to be filled with sealant.

Before putting the tile on the wooden floor, you need to brand the base.

Progress the foundation

For this, a universal primer is used. Next you need to apply glue compatible with GKVL and lay ceramic tiles. At the end take the sealant and fill the temperature seam left along the walls

If the floor has grunted and only lags remained

In this case, all the floorboards are dismantled, lags are evaluated. Some of them should also be rotten. Bad lags are replaced with new ones.

All beams are treated with an antiseptic agent and exhibit using the level.

A wooden flooring processed with a new wooden flooring.

Nice new wooden flooring

The further procedure is as described above.

There is another option. Mount additional lags. Further . The latter will be the basis for laying a tile. This option will be discussed below.

This desire can be performed when the floor is over the soil or on the concrete overlap. In this case, you need to perform the following actions:

Remove the plinths, floorboards and dismantle lags;

Dismantle the old floor

Clean the concrete base, remove the discharge cement, develop every crack or align the soil and fall asleep clamzit;

Clear concrete base

The concrete overlapping is ground or insulated with thermal insulation materials (clayzit, expanded foam);

Warm thermal insulation materials

Put the damper tape;

Place the damper ribbon

Poured the leveling screed (for this it may be a cement mixture for the bulk sex), in the case of the use of a cement solution before filling the screed, beacons are put; After such a tie, it is advisable to pour;

Poured aligning screed

Wait for complete drying of the screed and start laying the tiles.

Getting styling tiles

Laying tiles on a wooden floor, covered with chipboard or plywood, is a very good option. That is why he became the most common. It is implemented in different ways:

Fastening of sheet wooden material (plywood, chipboard) immediately on aligned flooring.
Formation of a new system of Lag and the installation of plywood on them. These lags need to put on a ready-made board floor.
The use of finished sets of regulating floors that have screw plastic supports.

Any of these methods involves the use of an old wooden floor as a base.

Laying in different ways

Therefore, it will not be superfluous to check its suitability, to process all parts with protective solutions and replace bad items. The second and third step cannot be made without disassembling the design. Although this is an additional work, in the end there is a good opportunity to assemble the design without drops.

When there is equal, durable base, proceed to one of the three above mentioned methods. The final stage of each of them is the laying of chipboard, plywood or similar sheet material. Put the squares of plywood you need so that there are no cruciform joints. It is desirable that the joint of two sheets of one row come to the middle of the sheet of the next row.

Chipboard or plywood coating

Fixation of the coating occurs with the help of screws. Must organize grinding of formed seams. After cleaning the surface with a vacuum cleaner and proceed to filling the seams with a sealant. It can also be done using polyurethane two-component glue.

It is worth saying that it is this solution that needs to be glued to plywood.

The use of conventional tile glue will not give a good result.

Laying tile

Before laying a tile, chipboard or any analog is impregnated with primer.

Video

In this video you will learn how to properly prepare the wooden floor under the tile laying.
Thanks to this material, get a lot of useful information.

Source of photos: stroyday.ru; Bath-rmnt.com.

Wooden floor coloring process is quite ordinary. Another such coating could be seen almost in every home or apartment, since another material for flooring was simply absent. Now it can be found in those houses where they care about its ecology. Another wooden floor gives the house extra comfort.

This article will present the technology of painting a wooden floor. Also on the video in this article you can visually see everything.

Staining the wooden floor yourself

The wooden floor is painted not to make a lot of work, you just need to do everything according to the rules and stick to the desired technology. The instruction below will help everything right and efficiently. If the painting of the wooden floor is made, then the ultimate price will not be significant, you will only spend on materials.

ATTENTION: Many experts believe that the boarded floor of the paint or varnish will serve as much longer than having no coverage.

Some owners think that the painting of the wooden floor is very simple and does not require the skills. But to purchase paint and tools - it is not all that is required to start work. All stages of the floor preparation to paint and the color itself must be fulfilled correctly, otherwise the flooring will be corrupted, and the money isted wasted.

We select materials

To start working needed, prepare the following materials and tools:

Wooden rails;
Paint;
Solvent.

Putty for repair work on a wooden floor

In order to close holes and cracks in the floor, you will need several different putty.

In their structure, they are different, and this must be considered when choosing:

Oil putty The composition has a glue that is sifted to the chalk, oil and sequivat. Despite the fact that the seboration is a substance that allows you to quickly fall asleep with putty, it dries sufficiently long compared to other species. The main advantages are reliability and durability.
Acrylic putty It is made from Barita, Talca, Okra and Belil. Its advantage is that it shrinks the gap perfectly, makes a smooth surface and dries very quickly. Such a putty is well suitable for those who want to level the walls. For greater reliability before mailingring the slot, it is necessary to clean, wash and dry.
Homemade putty Suitable for conventional wooden floor from boards. It is preparing from glue and sawdust from a tree. This putty dries quickly. It is easy to apply and align the surface. Another advantage of homemade putty is its durability.

Primer

Painting the floor in a wooden house is done after applying the soil, it will strengthen the clutch and extend the service life of the coating. Olife and primer are considered important materials. They are needed to impregnate the board, as well as to protect it from insects.

First decide what you will paint. If it is a colorless varnish, then the soil should not have colors. Otherwise it will be difficult to overlap in color.
If you have chosen the paint, then instructions for it should be studied. After all, some manufacturers offer a soil of the same brand. It will fit well.
It also costs to apply the soil to apply a spray gun. After all, then you will not have drowshes and the coating will be uniform.

Wooden Paint

Usually for painting wooden floor The owners prefer special enamel paints or varnish. If you have chosen something that you are painting the surface, you can move to the selection of the required material. At the moment, there are a large number of different types of paints in the building markets and in stores.

To make the right choice, you need to know which parameters it is selected:

Humidity of rooms in which there will be the floor covered with paint;
General condition of the floor and boards, their type;
Load level falling on floor covering.

By parameters of use and you need to pick up a dye:

Typically, oil paint is used for painting of the board. Many years of experience in its application shows that it is resistant to wear and inexpensive material. The only disadvantage is that it dries very long.
The enamel paint on the contrary is considered quick-drying. It gives the smoothness of the surface covered. The cost of such paint is slightly higher than oil.
Another means that is used for the impregnation of the floor is an alkyd and acrylic varnish on a water-soluble basis. It is most often used to cover perfect new boards or peeled from the old layer of wood. The drawing becomes clearer and bright.

One cans of paint will be little if the surface area is quite large. Therefore, it is pre-calculated the amount of material consumed.

For convenience, some manufacturers on paint banks indicate approximate consumption per meter in the package of milking floor. If there are no such data, then the calculation can be done with themselves, taking into account that the meter in the square requires approximately 250 grams of paint in one layer.
If you plan to cover the floor in two and more layer of paint, then it is necessary to purchase it 1.7 times more than the material on one layer. This is due to the fact that the first layer is spent more paint than on the following.
Another emphasis on which you should pay attention when choosing a paint material is a partition number of paint. In order for the color did not differ, it should be the same on all purchased banks. In the store of subtlety, the color differences can not be noticed, but at home it can manifest itself in the colorful surface of the floors.

Painting Preparation

The preparation of the wooden floor to painting is quite an important point. At this stage, you prepare a plane. From the quality of performance, it will largely depend not simply the appearance, but also the durability of the coating.

Preparation of an old floor

To restore the old floor, which before it was painted several times, you need to work hard and remove all layers of paint to the bottom (see how to remove the old paint from the tree without problems).

First, you need to remove the plinth so that in the future their presence does not interfere with the work.
Secondly, to kill those nails or other attachments of boards to lags, which could be higher than the level of the floor over the years. Otherwise, they will make further work on coloring.
Now we decide what to remove the old paint from the wooden floor, if earlier the floor was covered with one layer of paint, it can be removed by the grinding machine. Such devices are tape, disc and eccentric. The car can be rented in a construction store or call a specialist to perform this work that has its own device. This method of cleansing will allow cleaning boards from old paint and update it, as well as align and make a smooth.
The multilayer floor must be cleaned of paint with a special construction dryer. It will heat the layer and then the old paint is easy to remove with a spatula or scraper.
Manual grinding machine clean up to the end old floor surface.
If you need to align the joints of the adhesive among themselves, you can use the squabble machine.
The dust and rest of the garbage remaining after the grinding procedure should be removed from the surface. This will suit the construction vacuum cleaner.
The next thing to do is to close all the cracks between the boards. You can fill them with putty. She compares them and makes the floor even.
Wooden rails are needed for wide slots. They must be a wedge-shaped form, narrow from below and wide. Previously wash them along the entire length of the layer of glue or putty and drive into the gap.
The planer will need to compatient on the racks protruding over the floor after complete drying of the glue.
When the glue on the surface is completely driving, it is necessary to carry out control grinding that smoothes the remaining irregularities. After that, you need to remove the remaining garbage and dust.
The next step will be a hot oil or primer treatment. For this, ready-made impregnations are suitable, as they immediately solve two tasks: they have antiseptic properties, as well as smoothed the surface, which makes it easier to apply paint on it. Write to dry the material caused to the floor.

Preparation of a new floor

If we talk about a new milk surface, then it is usually superimposed, and there are no cracks between the boards:

But even such a new gender needed a lacquer and grinding. It is necessary that the floor surface looks more beautiful and was completely smooth.
After that, the floor is covered with a hot oil or antiseptic, allow to dry. It is believed that new boards are better to cover the primer in two layers.
The first layer is almost all absorbed into the boards, and the second will make the surface optimal for painting.