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Build a compost yam with your own hands. Computer pit at the dacha with their own hands: options for making a compotect pit, step-by-step instructions. To the prohibited ingredients of the compost heap are

alchemist 16-05-2011 11:57

pL78 17-05-2011 16:11

the grandfather is made of CSP sheets
loads-unloads from above

Marik. 17-05-2011 19:09

I did not understand, speech about the compost hole ???

Mower_man. 17-05-2011 20:29



well, the box is clear, to me the front wall like a gateway or opened to easily easily and beautiful?
Well, or offer your solutions ... Corner and CHOTS ... This is ....

Erich Weisse. 17-05-2011 21:07

Nikofar. 17-05-2011 21:58

I took seven years ago at the cottage here such compost boxes for disposal of the grass bevelled from the lawn:

Harpushtak 17-05-2011 22:00

Rats in the Pulp compost will be all year round.

Billi Boi. 17-05-2011 22:08

qUOTE: Originally posted by Alchemist:
well, the box is clear, to me the front wall like a gateway or opened to easily easily and beautiful?

Well, or offer your solutions ... Corner and CHOTS ... This is ....

Vladimir - you go on my tracks. I have done something like that last year.
Tomorrow I will look for pictures.
On the fingers - three sections 1x1m with a height of 1.5x 1m
Material - 45th corner and flat slate.
The gateway must be very thought out - I will remake. Computer mass strongly clinically leaf.
In general, I made the bottom window - about 30 cm with a height (somewhere on imported computers I saw. It turned out to be a complete nonsense - it is impossible to get the finished material from the bottom and uncomfortable.
While the usual reinforced swing doors come to the mind on each section separately.
I also wanted to make stationary covers from the same sheet. But after installation, they were inload. So far everything is worth it - without covers. On the extrusion - a couple of regteroids of Ruberoid Kina - it's just necessary to close it from drying out. And the water - let the composter go inside - it does not hurt there.
From uv.

Billi Boi. 17-05-2011 22:10

qUOTE: Originally posted by Mower_man:

Do not make anaerobics, make a lattice, which would blow, the temperature did not grow and the worms multiplied.

What would the temperature rose in the composter - it is necessary to take care of him
So simple - it will rise FIG.
Everything is a daughter because of the company drives.
Till tomorrow.
From uv.

Erich Weisse. 17-05-2011 22:32

But the temperature is advised not only from the worm worm! Mall de will reduce the germination of weeds in all kinds and larvae of worst!

Nikofar. 17-05-2011 22:44

If someone interest my compost boxes, I give a description:
For one compost box made of steel corner with a cross section of 25x25 mm, four frames with a size of 1000x1000 mm are welded with protrusions at the bottom, 80-100 mm long for fixing in the soil.
Two elements of wedge locks are welded on the side vertical edges of the frames. Two frames are made with wedges oriented teeth up, two others - with wedge teeth, focused down.
Then to the framework with the help of tear-off rivets of 4.5x10 or 5.0x12, sheets of profiled galvania are sticking. Step between rivets - 120-160 mm. After connecting to the lock of such four walls, a "cube" is obtained for compost of about one cubic meter.
A schematic drawing of a frame, an element of the lock and section of a wedge lock assembly is given below:

alchemist 17-05-2011 23:16

kolyan - We go from the corner and slate, otherwise it is necessary - it is necessary - the finished from plastic is

Nikofar. 17-05-2011 23:28

IOW, I propose an idea. Zanev is the same slate in the frame from the corner and use such wall screens for the device for folding compost boxes.
After ripening, the humus, one wall is removed and the finished humus is used for its intended purpose. I personally satisfied this scheme very much. And my wife too. We use how I have already said before, - seven years since 2004.

To connect plumbing devices to the water supply network used flexible water lining. It is in demand when connecting mixers, shower cabins, toilet bowls and other points of water intake, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible lining is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar water tools for manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and species

A flexible supply for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the right position and allows you to install in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is intended as a braid, which is performed from the following materials:

  • Aluminum. Such models are withstanding no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. With increased humidity, the aluminum braid is prone to the appearance of rust.
  • Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of flexible water supply for water is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 ° C.
  • Nylon. Such a braid is used to make reinforced models that hold the temperature to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive operation for 15 years.

A pair of nut-nut and nut-fitting, which are made of brass or stainless steel are used as fasteners. The devices with different indicators of the permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue is used to connect to a pipe with cold water, and red - with hot.

When choosing a watering for water, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, fastening and destination. Mandatory is also the presence of a certificate that eliminates the separation of rubber toxic components during operation.

Features of gas supply

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment also use flexible liners. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and not tested for environmental safety. For fixing uses end steel or aluminum fittings. Distinguish the following types of fixtures for connecting gas appliances:

  • pVC hoses that are reinforced with polyester thread;
  • from synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
  • silphon, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, reinforcement, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The range is represented by products and materials of famous foreign and domestic manufacturers. With wholesale purchases, discounts apply, and product quality is confirmed by certificates of the established sample. For information support and assistance for each client, a personal manager is assigned. The possibility of making delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly get purchased goods without unnecessary trouble.

Drainage - a hydro-elevative event on the disposal of excess groundwater.

If you do not leave the water from the territory for a long time, the soil is flunk, if they quickly disappear (swell) shrubs and trees, it is necessary to urgently take measures and carry out the drainage of the site.

Causes of soil moistening

The reasons for the convergence of soils several:

  • clay heavy soil structure with weak water permeability;
  • the waterproof in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
  • high groundwater occurrence;
  • man-made factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects), which prevent natural drainage;
  • violation of water balance with the construction of irrigation systems;
  • landscape plot is located in a lowland, beam, hollow. In this case, atmospheric precipitation and water inflows are playing a major role.

What is fraught with excess moisture in the soil

The results of this phenomenon you see yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

  • the oxygen content is reduced in the soil and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and power mode in the soil;
  • there is an oxygen fasting of the root-forming layer, which leads to the dying of the roots of plants;
  • violates the receipt of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.), because Excessive water flushes mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
  • an intensive decay of proteins occurs and, accordingly, the processes of rotting are activated.

Plants can suggest at what level groundwater

Look carefully to the flora of your site. Inhabiting its views will be prompted, at what depth there are soil layers of water:

  • ripowodka - in this place is best to dig up with water;
  • at a depth of 0.5 m - the bow of the village, the chests, varieties of the Oskock - bubble, ostolic, foxes, Vainik Langesdorf;
  • at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - Tollga, Canary,;
  • from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for taming meadow, mint, mouse peas, ranks;
  • from 1.5 m - drink, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know, planning the drainage of the site

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

  • with a depth of groundwater from 0.5 to 1 m can grow vegetables and aluminum flowers at high beds;
  • the depth of the water reservoir to 1.5 m is well transferred to vegetable crops, grains, annual and perennials (flowers), decorative and fruit-berry shrubs, trees on dwarf dive;
  • if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
  • the optimal depth of groundwater grounds for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Whether the drainage is needed

Record your observations at least for a while. You will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect the tale and sedimentary waters along the bypass channel, and not allow them to flow through their plot?

Perhaps you need to design and equip the lavety and improve the composition of the soil and will it be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and decorative trees?

The exact answer will give you a specialist, to call which we strongly recommend. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, a production building, as well as in private home ownership, it is required to experience the system involved by the method of forced strait. This task is applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewed sewage unit and the act of testing of internal sewage systems and drainage systems will be a real proof of work on the reception of the object.

Visual check should be accompanied by the test of the internal sewage and drainage systems in the ACT, which is currently submitted by the current regulations of the application of the "D" series, which corresponds to the joint venture 73.13330.2012 "Domestic Sanitary and Technical Systems of the Building" has recently applicable new Actualized working edition of SNiP 3.05.01-85.

How to make a compost pit - with this question sooner or later each owner of the country site is facing. From this article you will learn how to competently arrange a place to obtain natural fertilizers.

Compost - effective means to increase soil fertility. This is known even to novice gardeners. But about how to equip a compost pit, unfortunately, not everyone knows. In this case there are many nuances. And only a competent approach will allow "kill two hares" - dispose of household waste and lay the foundations of a rich harvest.

Choose a suitable place

If you break your head over the question, how to make a compost yam correctly, then the first thing you should take care - the choice of a suitable place.

As a rule, a compost bunch is placed for economic buildings, on the backyards of the site. Do not stir the pit too close to the source of drinking water. The optimal distance to it is 25 meters. The place must be shaded, because Direct sunlight inhibits processing processes. It is important to take into account the direction of the wind, hardly the neighbors will be delighted with the smell by the future fertilizer.

Think about the convenience of access. Many are forgotten about it, and then suffer with the bookmark of garbage and the sample of humus. Well, if the surface of the earth is smooth - stagnation of water reduces the inflow of oxygen, which will significantly stretch the time "preparation" of the most valuable additive.

Chose a place for a composter? Excellent! Clean the land from the turf and explode to a depth of 30 cm. So you will create favorable conditions for the vital activity of worms and other useful microorganisms that make an active participation in recycling.

About sizes and design features

So, with a place for the composter figured out. And here it is brewing a new question, what size should a compost pit be? The size is determined by the principle of "two cycles". That is, the first half of the pits should occupy the waste, which accumulated in 2 years, the second half is "young" compost (not older than 2 years).

It is important to understand that the larger the compost pit, the faster it is heated to the desired temperature (up to 60 degrees). If the pit is small, then it, of course, is also heated, but hardly to the temperature indicators, in which all pathogenic flora and weeds die. Specialists are recommended to lay a compost bunch with the following dimensions: height - at least 1.2 m, width - 1.5 m, length - 2 m.

Be sure to comply with the removable lid for the composter. Do not cover the bottom with film, rubber, metal sheets or slate. They will prevent moisture passing up, which means that the compost will be dry. The best floor for compost pit is an earthy.

Production options

Computer heaps can be several species. Consider the options for arrangement, and you will choose the most convenient for you.

Ordinary Yama

"Composter for lazy" is a conventional shallow pit. First put on the bottom of the bark of trees, hay or branches. Next - vegetable and food residues. Blank with black polyethylene film. After each discharge of new waste, cover them with grass. To be honest, this option cannot be called successful - the contents of the pit will not warm up sufficiently, and the stirring will have to spend a lot of forces. It is better to try and build something more efficient.

Wooden two-section composter

Wooden drawer, immersed in the ground, is the most common option. Having a depth of a depth of about 50-80 cm, a width is 1.5-2 meters and a length of 2-3 meters. In the corners of the corners of the support bars, retreating from the edges of the pit of 20 cm. With this task, the cuts of the pipe will cope with this task. Treat previously bioprotective composition.

Collect three walls of the drawer from the boards, providing ventilation holes. Install and remove if necessary. Divide the composter into two parts using a wooden shield. The first compartment is for the "old" compost, the second - for the "young". Screw the front wall.

Each bottom straw or wood bark. It will protect against the accumulation of excess fluid and will provide a normal air exchange. The lid can be made of plywood sheet, fixed on the back wall by means of loops. First, process the wooden parts impregnation protecting against moisture and insects, and then cover acrylic paint in two layers.

You can divide the compost yam not two, but by three sections. The first compartment is for the finished compost, the second is for the concerning, the third is to bookmark new waste.

The whole composter is made of wood, but if you wish, you can use slate, metal sheets or bricks.

Composter with one section

If a two-or three-section composter seems uncomfortable to you, then you can make a pit with one compartment. Install the wooden box so that 30 cm remains between the Earth and the edges. From this hole and the matched compost will be selected. The new raw material is laid on top, that is, loose fertilizer is not necessary. In principle, very convenient.

Concreted pit

Those who want to make a compost pit once and no longer worry about it worth advantage of the concreted "tank". Follow the territory (approximately 2x3 meters) and dig a shallow trench (70-80 cm). Build a formwork with a thickness of 10-12 cm around the perimeter of the future composter. Prepare concrete and pour it into a formwork. After the final frost, the formwork disassembled. Lay into the pit of waste and cover with a film, metal mesh or wooden shields. That's all.

Plastic containers

Modern interpretation of the traditional pit, requiring some refinement. Plastic does not let air, so you have to do ventilation holes yourself. Make it happens problematic. It is better to buy a ready-made plastic composter, equipped with a lid, ventilation strokes and lower doors for calculating fertilizers. The volume may be different. On average - from 400 to 1000 liters. The cost varies from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

When the work on the arrangement of the compost pocket is complete, you should think about how to use it correctly. After all, it directly depends on how quickly you get humus and how much it is nutritious.

  • from time to time, "Combat" the contents of the pits of the pits. So you will provide oxygen access and speed up the rotation process;
  • do not forget to water a compost bunch - dry waste does not decompose;
  • accelerate the process of "preparation" will help the film that the pit is covered;
  • sometimes, sit in the worms in the box and add drugs activating decomposition (composting, compostar, Baikal EM-1, etc.);
  • place the raw layers. Wedding residues alternate with food waste, wet - with dry;
  • will accelerate the decomposition process of cow manure, as well as some plants (dandelion, chamomile, Valerian, Yarrow);
  • do not tamper the layers tightly, watch the contents not too wet, too loose or, on the contrary, dry;
  • the dry material in the compost puch should be 5 times more than the wet.

And finally, that you can lay in the composter, and what is impossible. This, by the way, determining the moment to get a good fertilizer. Wedding residues are thrown into the compost yam - mowed grass, straw, bark of trees, leaves, branches, wood ash. Food waste - welding, fruit and vegetable peel, egg shell, porridge residues and soups. Black and white newspapers, napkins, cardboard, old things from wool or cotton.

To enrich the contents of the pit nitrogen, from time to time you need to add to it manure, bird litter, bone flour, legumes and pea stems. Do not forget about superphosphates, dolomite flour and complex mineral fertilizers.

It is impossible to make excrement of animals, fats, bones, spoiled products, tomato and potato tops, weed seeds treated with plant herbicides, inorganic debris (rubber plastic, glass, synthetics).

Video: Device of modern compost pits on the household plot

If there is a cottage, it means there is a vegetable garden, and for the vegetable garden, the most important fertilizer. Not everyone loves to use mineral complexes as feeding. Many prefer the organicity like humus and compost that can be prepared by themselves. In this case, magnificent assistants for the gardener will be composters for cottages - special containers of different volumes in which it is convenient to prepare and store natural fertilizer.

It is mistaken to believe that these two terms have one value. The total for them is only the essence of fertilizer, namely, the process of overloading. The difference lies in the components used, which will put the basis of the feeding and its vitamin and mineral composition.

Humus

This decomposed manure is a cow, horse, rabbit and any other depending on the farm living in the site. The whole process of debating or decomposition takes from 2 to 5 years. The finished humus should have a pleasant fresh aroma, like land in the forest. To improve the quality of the fertilizer, the manure is stirred from the ground, sawdust, straw, adding water as needed to prevent drying.

The presence of a heavy ammonia smell says that the process of maturation is not completed.

Estimation of centuries by manure in Russia feather almost all cultures. It is great for sakes, keeping moisture in them. Clay soils it makes more loose and aerial. Ready humus - this very humus, which is a fertile component of any soil.

Compost

Not all dachans have the opportunity to fertilize the area by humus. In this case, compost comes to the revenue, which can be done by itself using a pit or a special capacity - the composter.

For its preparation take vegetation and everything that can overheet. Great fits grass, sawdust, chips, small twigs, remnants of tops, cleaning, tea bags, ash, and all that is at hand. Some gardeners can add some manure or chicken litter if possible - this significantly improves the quality of the finished fertilizer.

It is not recommended to put vegetation, feces of dogs, cats and a person, fish, bones, meat and dairy products in a compost bunch of fungi and disease. Violation of the compost rules can lead to a deterioration in its quality and the development of harmful microorganisms.

Comfort fully matures in about two years. But the market today offers various composting accelerators, as a result of the use of which the whole process can take no more than one season. The finished fertilizer on a par with a humus improves the structure and properties of the soil, thereby increasing yield.

What conditions are required for composting

The simplicity of compost preparation only seems at first glance. In fact, compliance with the composting conditions is necessary that the fermentation process goes correctly. The main factors that naturally affect the course of this process are:

What is a composter and what is it needed for?

For the preparation of the compost, the pit is traditionally digging. However, its use is not very convenient, especially when there are only 4-6 acres in possession. The small area of \u200b\u200bthe plot, the smell emanating from the pit, the inconvenience during the mixing of the compost heap is forced to look for an alternative.

The composter is a container of a given volume, a special device of which provides for the creation of favorable conditions for the preparation of compost.

Each design must be:

  • cover, where material is layered for composting;
  • holes for air intake;
  • holes at the bottom to eliminate the accumulated liquid.

Additional functions depend on the specific model.

The composter can be independent of the primary materials - it is a good cash savings. The advantage of purchased models is durability and a beautiful appearance that allows you to put boxes anywhere.

Composters made from different materials, such as wood. In such products, good saturation of the contents of oxygen occurs, as a result, the fertilizer is obtained by crumbly, but sometimes a little dry. In metal containers, moisture is superbly maintained, so the prepared compost is wet and more dense. There are also composters from plastic resistant to low temperatures and ultraviolet.

What are the advantages of using a composter

The household composter is the same as the food processor for the household. This is a comfortable thing that will help save time, strength and money. Composters, especially closed, have many advantages, most essential of which are:


Modern composters have excellent operational and aesthetic characteristics, so they can be installed without harm for the design of the site. In addition, manufacturers began to produce landscape devices in the form of a small hilly, decorative stone or other natural elements. Such models will not only fulfill their functions, but also decorate the place.

Types of composters

By type of operation, the device for composting is divided into:

  • Open composterswhich are exploited during the warm season. This is the most economical option. It is easy to collect and conveniently operate on large areas, where many organic material.

The disadvantage of this type of construction is the spread of the unpleasant smell and the possibility of grazing with vegetation. In addition, the term of fermentation increases.

  • Closed composters More convenient in use. They are small, their volume is from 200 to 1000 liters. Such composters can be left on the street all year round, and if necessary, it is easy to hide in the garden. Moreover, chemical reactions are in faster, which means that fertilizer will be ready earlier.

The only minus closed composters is the price. It is significantly higher than the open-type composters.

Models

Among the variety of industrial composters, the following three models are distinguished, which differ in their constructive features:


How to choose a composter?

The choice of the composter begins with its volume. For small areas (up to 6 acres) or for the disposal of food waste, a volume of 200-300 liters is suitable. For larger area, great capacity will be required - up to 1000
l. Sometimes dachensors acquire two or three composters at once and in turn lay the organic in them, thereby ensuring themselves with the continuous flow of organic fertilizer.

When choosing a composting device orient on its design details. For example, it is important to pay attention to the presence of a bottom mesh that protects the contents of the container from rodents. If it is not included, it is worth worrying about the timely additional acquisition. And it will not prevent immediately decide whether it will be a summer composter or the all-season laying of the organics will be supposed.

Before purchasing boxing, you need to pay attention to the input and output hatch. They should be wide enough to make it easy to put the hack of grass and straw up the fertilizer of the Sovic shovel. Having a large loading hatch, it will be easier to steer a bunch to increase the access of oxygen. As an alternative to the unloading hatch, a retractable pallet with a finished fertilizer from the lower layers can be.

Fastening hatches - a spoon of tar for many models. During operation, it is found that the doors hang out and from the wind remains to fly. Therefore, before buying, you need to check how they rotate and how tightly adjacent when closing.

The mobility of the composterator is important, especially if it is removed by the winter to store or regularly move. If composting is planned throughout the winter, the thermostat with thermostat, thermostat, and peat bundle will be indispensable. For lovers of Californian worms, vermicoposter will suit.

Best manufacturers

Kekilla Global (Finland)

Perhaps the first place can be assigned to the Finnish manufacturer Kekilla. Their composters are distinguished by excellent stability to strong frosts, and therefore are considered universal. There are no heavy or small details in the most popular Globe model. Rounded design, easy to use, safe for children.

Due to the high composting rate, the device is 310 liters. By the number of finished fertilizers per season comparable with 600 liter. In addition, the volume can be artificially increased by adding a pair of 160 liter rings, which are purchased separately.

Compost is reliably isolated from the environment, and after ripening is easily removed using a shovel. To do this, simply remove the lid and the case, opening access to the content. Finnish key-flag on the composter - a sign of the highest quality of products made of its own raw materials.

An analogue of the Finnish composter is the Russian meridian, which exists on the market for 5 years. He has the same characteristics as the Finnish "fellow", but the outside has a pattern in the form of parallels and meridian. It has a favorable price.

Graf. THERMO. King. (Germany)

Another thermocoupler model that has proven perfectly in practice. Its hull is made of plastic resistant, which foamed the structure of which perfectly supports the optimal temperature inside the box. There is support for the choice of the summer and winter mode of operation.

The lid consists of two sash and securely fixed. Does not open even with strong wind. Loading material, respectively, is carried out on both sides, as well as the extraction of the finished compost. The design of the device is beautiful, ergonomic, easily fits into the landscape.

Wavea (Russia)

This cone-shaped container, the body of which has a wavy shape (hence the name). Made of frost and heat-resistant propylene increased rigidity, which due to its form perfectly distributes the compost mass. It does not oxidize and does not enter into a chemical reaction with other substances.

The volume of wave is 1000 liters, ideal for six acres. He has no bottom, so the extra moisture will go to the ground. However, additional acquisition of the bottom mesh is required to protect against rodents.

In the case there are ventilation holes and four holes for the extraction of compost. Easily disassembled and transported in the trunk of the car. Of the disadvantages - the opening of the lid with strong wind.

Operating Rules

  • Do not overload the container - the finished fertilizer should be loose and slightly wet. Immerse the material in it is not higher than the maximum mark.
  • Installing the composter is recommended on Earth or grass, but not on a wooden or concrete base. It is necessary to provide worry access inside the design and to remove excess moisture.
  • The best place to install the compostera is shaded and protected from the wind plot away from open fire.
  • The bottom of the composter should be protected by a metal mesh from penetration of mice.
  • When coldly occurs, the device needs to be translated into winter mode or wrapping the film to maintain the internal temperature.
  • Regularly 1-2 times a month need to mix a compost bunch to improve chemical reactions. At the same time, the lower, the proper layer is better not to touch.

Composter do it yourself

The composter can be made of girlfriend - boards, old furniture, construction residues. Most often make wooden containers, as working with wood easily allows you to observe all the necessary conditions. Furniture in this regard is good good, it usually grabs only one season.

For convenience, you can prepare a drawing of boxing. It will be easier to navigate it in the process, as well as calculate the amount of the required material. The optimal size of the composter is 1 m 3, that is, 1m × 1m × 1m.

To work, it will take a 5-centimeter bar and 2.5 cm thick boards. All material will need to be treated in advance to the means against rotting, which will prevent the participation of the hull in fermentation.

At first, the bars make the columns that stick into the ground and, if desired, are fixed with cement mortar.

Next, the side walls are harvested, follow the back and front. Between the boards leave 1-2 cm. Gaps for access of oxygen. A small gap is necessary and from the surface of the Earth. The front wall can be short for convenience, then the folding door will lie under a small angle. The lateral door will noticeably simplify the extraction of the finished compost.

By the same principle, two- and three sectional composters are made. While in the same section, the process of debate is underway, the vegetable material is laid. You can make the side walls of the device not from the boards, but from a fine stainless grid, concluded in a wooden frame. Frames are attached to the bars columns, creating a well-aerated container.

Composters manufacturers are a lot. Here you can truly show fantasy and your skills. It is only important to observe the basic principles of the device, which are responsible for the quality of the finished fertilizer.

Video instructions for building a composter


A compost pit of organic waste is an integral part of the country or the nice site. In the presence of own garden, a person tries to cultivate the vegetation and fruits that do not contain nitrates on fertile soil. To this end, they use organic fertilizers derived from compost. The purpose of this article is to tell the owners of garden sites, how to make a compost pit from low-cost firing materials.

Instructions for the manufacture of a compost pit (box) do it yourself

Make a compost yam with your own hands easy. Its arrangement involves the use of lungs and inexpensive components. In the example below, the compost box is created from palletsused in the construction sector to fold consumables. You can purchase such pallets for a small amount or generally get free, taking them after unloading building materials.

making a compost pit with their own hands. Photo

If you do not know how to create a compost yam with your own hands, the step-by-step instruction in detail will tell about this procedure.

First thing choose a placeThe most suitable for the arrangement of the compost heap. This site should be located in the distance from residential buildings and is preferably in the zone where the wind is dominated. This will exclude the likelihood of an unpleasant smell of compost in the courtyard.

Follow drawingrepresented as an example to create a compost box properly. Remember that it should have a presentable view, be convenient to operate, easy to dismantle when filling with organic waste.

computer pit with your own hands manufacturer. Photo

Disassembleprepared wooden pallets by removing connecting elements (nails). The result of such work will be the receipt of edged boards-shakes.

Take advantage of a circular machine to split All boards on the billet length about 1 m. Of these, a compost box will be created.

In order to collect one-piece design from individual boards, two of them follow cut downlobzik rectangular holes. The photo and video attached to the instructions will help the master to navigate into how to make cuts in the remaining boards to accurately connect them with two crossbars.





space pit with your own hands step by step with photos

Installationall boards (except facial) is carried out vertically, and their mount is made on the mounting glue. The first (front) board is shuting under a small angle to the whole structure, and without the use of adhesive solution. Compliance with this condition is necessary to facilitate the disassembly of the structure. The device of the described type of compost drawer allows you to easily rearrange it to another place, perform a disassembly after filling it with organic waste and residues of vegetation.

To compost drawer from wooden pallets, it turns out to be stable, during its installation on the plot allotted for this align Bottom boards of the finished box with a level.



As you can see, quite a bit efforts need to be applied to create a compost pits of the construction materials of the construction industry. The finished compost box looks decently, and makes it possible to utilize all unnecessary vegetation from its own garden site. Gradually sealing in such a container, and being under the influence of moisture and putrid bacteria, the vegetation turns into organic fertilizer of high quality, ideally suitable for feeding gardening vegetation.

How to make a compost pit. Video

Making a drawer for compost with your own hands

The question associated with the disposal of plant waste at the household plot is worried about most gardeners. Exporting them outside the garden is not worth it, because with the right approach of the body can become excellent fertilizer. The same unnecessary vegetation, as noted above, is better in the compost yam, which should be volumetric. We suggest to consider the option of building a compost pit with your own hands, a step-by-step instruction to which the procedure even a newcomer will help to implement the procedure.

As an example, take the design a compost drawer consisting of three sections.

Install 8 wooden ColumnAfter finishing the protective composition of the lower part of each of them (the one that will be located under the earth). As a protective solution, you can apply fuel oil, moving or used machine oil.

If a fenceon your household plot is durable and reliable, then its canvas can be applied as a support for one side of the sides of the compost drawer (as shown in the photo). Actually, this option facilitates the task, eliminating the need to dig a few more holes under the columns.

The next step in the creation of the design is a sectional device partition. To do this, to support several boards, leaving the small slits for ventilation necessarily between them. It should also be considered that in two compartments of the box will be created small doorsTherefore, the front part of it should be seen by the boards only until half of the height.

The third compartment is equipped with a large door, and in connection with this it is worth nourishing one board in the lower, front of the box.

Next Stage of Work - Installation covers The end areas of sectional partitions, as well as - the rear and front walls are enhanced by crossbars.

computer box with your own hands. Photo

The door hanging is performed, which also perform the function of the lids of the compost box. It is already clear that one large and two small doors will be located in front.

When creating a wooden box for compost, immediately take care that wood does not become a composite component of organic fertilizers prepared from waste of vegetable origin. The compost ripening process involves the gradual decomposition of the organic, and the tree also belongs to the components of natural, organic origin. And therefore, when designing a three-section compost box made of boards, it is preferably to impregnate every item special compositiondeep penetration. It will protect the tree from the effects of moisture, putrefactive processes and harmful insects. It is now easy to acquire a solution for the complex protection of wooden surfaces, but it should be remembered that it should be non-toxic. Then the organic fertilizer (compost) will be qualitative.

After the boards are saturated, the finished box for compost coloringin an acceptable color for you. The paint is desirable to pick up non-toxic. It should have high resistance to temperature drops, not fading into the sun. Apply it to a box in two layers.

The last stage of creating a design is to hang out the scores and pens. The compost pit from the boards is fully ready for use!

Computer pit. Options for its equipment

Now there are many different technologies for the construction of compost pits with their own hands. Each owner of the cottage or country house with a land plot chooses the type of construction, which is ideal for specific location conditions. We give the several most common types of equipment of the kittleners to assemble compost.

Option 1st. It is rarely used, and mainly in cases where the prepared compost is expected to be used no earlier than after 1.5-2 years. The essence of the work here is to dig a pit on the allotted area of \u200b\u200bthe terrain. It should be similar in shape to the well, but be not so deep. The walls of the compost pit must be strengthened so that the soil does not collapse. The peculiarity of the pit prepared in this way is that it will ripen the raw materials for fertilizer, without interference from a person. And therefore it is worth taking care of creating optimal conditions for the preparation of organic fertilizers. The walls of the finished pit begin to sow at an altitude of 15-25 cm from the bottom, while at the bottom of the bottom no material stacked. This will allow microorganisms and worms to penetrate the soil in the folded residues of vegetation unhindered.

Council. Before laying the vegetable mass into a hole, wept to break it well, as well as equip the ventilation output in the form of a pipe. After heavy rains or abundant watering a pit with a compost, cover with a polyethylene film. This activates the operation of microorganisms, and the jurisdiction of the organic will go faster.

If possible, a compost yam is better to create beyond the local area, in the forest belt.

Option 2nd. In this case, the pit for compost is equipped right in the garden. Many land owners note that such an option is more convenient in the sense that the unloading of organic fertilizers from the pit is carried out as needed. The basis of the design is a formwork, and it is possible to make it from any submitted materials. It can be plastic barrels or a box collected from individual boards. The presented method also involves ensuring access to worms and microorganisms into the thickness of organic residues. And therefore, the soil is loosened before laying vegetation, and the formwork design is slightly plunged (about 20-30 cm). The need to prevent the natural circulation of air in the generated box determines the leaving of the alkaline between the milk elements of the structure, or the formation of holes in plastic surfaces.

Option 3rd. Another method of preparation of organic fertilizers from plant residues is the creation of the so-called buoy, or a compost heap. This technology is considered the simplest, however, when it is used, hygiene requirements are not respected. At the preservation area, when choosing such a method of cooking compost, the optimal area is selected, on which the substrate from gravel, sand or dry grass is immediately made. The top of it is placed on her vegetable waste, and their overvalues \u200b\u200bare waiting. Full availability Organic fertilizer reaches a year after two or more. The complexity lies in the fact that the bunch has to be intermitted periodically, and before the onset of winter, it is still engaged in its insulation so that microorganisms do not die under the influence of cold.

So, the variants of the equipment of the compost hole there are many, and the difference between them goes both by the materials used and the size and characteristics of its design. In any case, with the right approach, it will not even be difficult for even a novice master.

Schifer


The compost yam with his own hands for its creation requires solid materials from which it would be possible to make the walls of the box in which plant residues will be stored. The previous sections have already described the possibility of forming such structures from boards, building pallets or plastic barrels. There is another good way - a compost box of waste slate. In the household, many lacrimal owners are certainly there such a dacha. Slate leaves are becoming a beautiful base for the walls of the compost box. In addition, the compost pit from such a material will be reliable and durable. To create a box of slate with your own hands, we recommend performing work in such a sequence:

Decide exactly parameters Designs. Remember that the pit should be in size so that all the plant waste was placed inside it, collected from the site for two seasons (and sometimes more time). If we consider that a small bunch of vegetation residues (topped leaves) by its volume is about 0.25 cubic meters, then the pit for their processing can be made with dimensions of 1M * 1M * 1M. In this case, there will still be a bit of place and for food waste.

After selecting the territory, you will need to make a small depressionin the soil (by 20-30 cm).

In the corners of the design and in the central part are installed racks Created from thick branches of trees or conventional metal pipes of small diameter.

With the help of prepared slate sheets form walls Computer box.

Compost ripens in the pit for two years, and slate partitionLocated in the middle of the box, makes it possible to use the internal space of the pit continuously. That is, the result of the work becomes a two-piece box from slate, each of the compartments of which is used alternately.

List of compost drawer requirements



By studying the question of how to make a compost yam from certain materials, do not forget about the requirements for such designs. First of all, in the manufacture of a compost box, it is necessary to consider that a constant air flow is needed for ripening. Therefore, on the sides of the design must be present ventilation holes. So that useful substances from the created organic fertilizer were filled out into the ground, it is desirable to cover the compost yam during the rain lid. You can use the conventional polyethylene film instead of the cover, but in this case it will need to somehow fix on the edges to avoid being blown by the wind. It should also be taken into account that the compost is ripening from the bottom faster, so easy access should be provided to the lower part. On the above scheme, you can see how the simplest box for compost is arranged. Note that the boards located on the side are made removable, and the design dimensions can be changed. As an option, you can consider creating a drawer with removable front boards.

There is also a way to create a simpler design box. In it, the loops will be made of durable strips of rubber or other elastic material. They are well fixed on the surface of the chismeted boards.

An economical option for creating a compost box will be the product from wooden pallets, for the device that does not need special skills and a lot of time.

What can and can not be thrown into the compost pit?

Finding out how the compost pit is made from different consumables, it is impossible to cost attention and recommendations on which waste can be thrown into it, and which is not.

A well-designed pit for compost will fully justify the goal of its creation if the following types of organic waste will be collected in it:

  • The fallen bark of trees, old leaves and small branches, cheva, herbal roots and small roots of trees.
  • Suspended manure and bird guano.
  • Grass and beveled weed vegetation.
  • The remains of herbal tea or coffee.
  • Purification of vegetables and fruits, missing berries, fruits and vegetables.
  • The ash, remaining from the burning of wood.
  • Wood chips, straw, sawdust, hay.
  • Napkins, cardboard, packages from paper and paper itself.

Recommendation. To the thick layer of grass laid in the compost hole, decomposed faster, sprinkle it on top of fresh loose ground. If this is not done, the process of overheating the grass will delay for a period of half a year before a year.

As for those components that cannot be inserted into the compost yam, they are present in their list:

  • Potato and tomato tops. Often, it is infected with phytoophluorosis disputes, and laying it into compost in the future will lead to the spread of the disease throughout the garden plot, and the defeat of phytoofluorosis of new seasonal vegetation.
  • Products of inorganic origin that will not be detected under the influence of natural factors. This belongs to the metal, packages made of polyethylene, rubber and synthetics, components with the base of plastic.
  • Vegetation, generously fertilized by chemicals.
  • The branches of large thickness, for the overloading of which takes a lot of time.
  • Seeds of weeding plants that have already passed the stage of ripening.
  • Fekes of animals living in the house. They may include inclusions in the form of bones or eggs of helminths

How to exploit the compost pit?

In the previous sections of our article, we found out how to make a compost yam from the primary components, and also - what can be laid in it, and what to put in a pit is undesirable. Now it remains to designate those simple requirements that will help properly exploit the design to store compost throughout the year. Here they are:

  • Try to periodically exercise looseningcompost Garden forks. This will provide an oxygen inflow to a divergent organic. Waste mixing will help speed up the process of their decomposition.
  • The compost pile should occasionally water. If there is arid and hot weather on the street, the amount of watering compost irrigation should be increased. With regular moisture, the contents of the pit will be better and faster. But the dry compost completely stops its decomposition.
  • If there is such an opportunity, it is desirable to periodically lay in the thickness of rotting vegetation californian worms. They will not only break the contents of the compost, but also partially process it.
  • Preferably on top of waste in the pit lay dark polyethylene film. Due to it in the thickness of the raw biomaterial, a greenhouse effect will arise, and due to it, the temperature inside the heap will increase significantly. Binding folded layers of vegetation will occur faster. At the same time, the presence of film ensures the preservation of the wet environment in the compost, and prevents the growth of weeds there. The ripening period of the compost heap covered with a film is 3-4 months. If you do not cover the pit with an organic, then the process of ripening waste is stretched for a whole year.
  • If there is an opportunity to a hole with a compost, it is recommended to add special preparations Accelerating the decomposition procedure of components. Among the most famous such compositions can be called Baikal EM-1, SanEX eco-componust, a compostar, composting, arbitration.

With the right arrangement of the compost pits and regular care, the owners of the household plots will be able to obtain a fertilizer of high quality, which does not contain in its composition of harmful substances.

Computer pit with your own hands. Video