Drain pit with drainage in the ground. Budget systems of the drainage of the site and storm sewage from the portal users. How to clean the blockage in the drain pipe

Autonomous sewer systems or local sewage treatment facilities, the same los and septicities of many manufacturers are an excellent alternative to the country area. They can be installed for various reasons: the remoteness of the site from engineering communications, the impossibility of connecting, a certain benefit of the dacnik when using the autonomous system and others. In the event of the acquisition and installation of the septicism in the country, there is a number of issues with which we have already figured out earlier. But the most important thing is not only the choice of LOS, but also its proper installation on the site and the removal of purified water. If we neglect the recommendations and requirements, the meaning of the cleaning of the effluent in some cases is not lost. Therefore, besides correct selection of the septic, you need to think about how to make the right drainage well or aeration field for septic.

At the moment, some articles on the site are written on the topic we need, but today we will try to expand the knowledge of the summer houses, and tell me how to make drainage for the septicity with your own hands.

What is needed drainage for septic

Most septic stems work on a fairly simple scheme, but it is optimal and efficient only in the case of proper installation and connecting all internal blocks and system elements. During the processing of wastewater, the septic tanks accumulates a certain amount of them, which settles on the bottom in the form of solid particles, and is converted to IL. Perhaps this is due to the factors described by us in previous articles, where we communicated about the work of septicists.

The axial part remains in the reservoir, and the purified water is discharged into the soil through the drainage system. It is worth noting that with high-quality water purification, it can achieve a very high degree of purity, but a certain part of pollution still remains in it. If the water is not purified, it will go into the ground in a rather undesirable form, as a result of which not only unpleasant aromas of the nearby Los are developing, but also increases the risk of disease by infection with various infections.

Risks are available in the event that such water is discharged incorrectly and not absorbed into the ground at a certain depth. Of course, it is possible to object to this, because there are many cases when water is discharged into ditches and rivers. But this is just as long as the summer houses were paid huge fines for pollution of ecology. Otherwise, this fact must be fixed and allowed, and water from the septic should be maximally cleaned.

Drainage systems for septic

Drainage systems differ mainly by the ability to remove a certain volume of purified wastewater. Naturally, the system could be one, but the creation of several gave us the necessary choice. Therefore, we are confident that in the near future there are still a few innovative ways to remove water, which will be rigidly criticized, as well as study and try the dacms and masters.

In fact, it is an alternative for each of us also in terms of finance. For example, if the drainage well can be made independently from the girlfriend, then for drainage tunnels it will be necessary to seriously invest in special assembly materials of this system. Naturally, all investments will bring a certain result, but dachensons who visit the site just a couple of times a week, this is clearly not necessary. So let's consider all the drainage systems specified by us for the septica in more detail, as well as make an emphasis on the features of the systems and recommendations of specialists.

Filtering drainage well

This building is a similarity of a cesspool, but with certain differences. Here come here the purified stocks from the septic, which are reaffected and go into the ground.

The option can be called the best solution for giving. It is simple, inexpensive, copes with small amounts of water (for more serious volumes it is better to use other structures), it can be installed even on soils with partial problems.

What is good, and the place of the drainage well practically does not occupy, and therefore, if you have a small plot, then nothing to worry about.

How to make a drainage well with your own hands?

There are no problems in the construction of a drainage well, and for summer residents who have long been with us, and have been engaged in even more serious construction, and is suppressed.

You need to dig a hole and set to equip the pit. There are several options for the device of such a well, and they are all available.

Immediately you can stay on the b / y brick, which is stacked in the circle of the pit, near the walls. Between the bricks, perforation, breaks without a solution, so that water can leave not only through the bottom, but also through the walls.

You can make a drainage well easier - to set a reinforced concrete ring into the pit, which also fill the water removal holes. Similar option is the installation of a large plastic barrel without a bottom in the pit.

• Do not spend money on waterproofing. Here she is not needed, and even on the contrary, it will arrange us when water will evenly go into the ground.
• The drainage well is installed in the area of \u200b\u200bthe area where there are no problems with a high level of groundwater. It is also recommended to set the depth of the structure below the clay layer.
• For better absorption of water, exclusion of problems with soil beagle, as well as for maximum doctor, on the bottom of the well, a layer of coarse sand and gravel layer is laid, 20 cm.
• Perforation is made at a level of 50-80 cm from the bottom, water will also go through it.
• In order for the perforation does not be drunk, in the circumference of the installed barrel or concrete ring, the clayzite is attached or the same gravel.
• Be sure to think about the correctness of the selection of the place - there are gone from residential buildings, well, wells. Also, do not violate legislation by our construction.
• It is necessary to accurately calculate all the parameters of the structure that must correspond to the amount of discharged waters.
• It also takes waterproofing and insulation of the upper part of the drainage well, high-quality ventilation.
• It is important to install on the well and a removable cover that will give access to the inside.

Drainage system of old tires (video)

Aeration fields do it yourself

The principle of operation of filtration fields for septic is the distribution by a certain territory of purified water. Properly made aeration fields are fascinated by drains, and for some information, by another 20-40%. This is a very good result, which means that you do not pollute the soil of your own country area with a similar system.

Build Filtering fields simple enough. To do this, you need to dug a few trenches, under the number of pipes-taps from the septica. Further, fall asleep with these trenches with gravel with gravel by creating a 20-cm with a pillow over all of them. After, over the trenches, install perforated pipes, which will produce a distributed reset of water.

There are many opinions of masters on the installation of drainage systems, but we chose from them the most significant:

• For aeration fields, plastic perforated pipes are used, on the edge of each of which a ventilation output is installed.
• To prevent the punching of perforations, the pipes are wrapped with geotextile, a filling of gravel is made, special bears are built.
• The system is placed in an unused place in the country so that it does not interfere with plants with an increased amount of water in the territory, and the plants did not spoil the system root.
• The entire system is collected with mandatory attention to the requirements of the septica and reset of water, as well as depending on the characteristics of the soil. By the way, a system on sulesa, loaming and sandstones is being built, be sure to measure the level of freezing.
• For laying of pipes, the same slope is selected and installed for the correct distribution of water.

Drainage tunnels

Drainage tunnels or blocks are already a newer and modern system, which is intended for cottage and recreation areas more. The fact is that under this replacement fields of filtration no longer need a separate place with mandatory requirements.

Due to the characteristics of the national team, over the drainage tunnels, you can even install a gazebo, a platform for a car parking at the cottage, deploy the original landscape structure, the same roccar.

But it should be immediately noted that, together with the advantages of the system in terms of quality, strength and durability, it is necessary to consider its value. It seems to be medium and acceptable, but for many it can become a serious clipping from the budget. Therefore, by studying the possibility of installing on the dacha of the filtering tunnels, immediately pay attention to the price.

Benefits of the drainage tunnel system

• It can be said that this is a rather durable system, which is established once and for many years.
• The overall design has increased strength, due to which the territory over the system can be used with benefit.
• Recently increased performance, thanks to which you do not need to worry about the number of discharges.

Fews worked with drainage tunnels, since this system is not suitable for expenses. We are more often installed drainage wells or even just cesspools instead of septic. But if you wish to install on the site exactly such a system, we will give you some tips:

• It is very desirable to install drainage tunnels on a greater depth. Often, this happens as follows - trenching the trench with dimensions under the module, plus 40-50 cm on each side of it. The depth of the pit is about 2 m. At the bottom of it, 50 cm of sand is stacked, then 30 cm rubble, and only then the module is installed, it is desirable to have an already rammed surface.
• The modules are installed on the finished pillow and connect, both between themselves and with the conclusions from the septic.
• So that the perforation is not drunk, the modules are covered with geotextiles.
• Further, the system is covered with rubble, and ventilation conclusions are installed in special holes.
• It remains only to shine a layer to the soil level. This is done with a mixture of land and sand. Also, in many cases, to make the surface of the exploited, the geogrose is stacked, which we conducted in several articles on the site.

We want to note the fact that this information is general and can partially change when choosing a system or another, as well as in combination with its septic set. It is very advisable to consistent about the choice of drainage under Septic and with specialists at the site of the acquisition of LOS, because each sewage treatment has its own features.

Source: Dachadecor.ru.

What do you need drainage pits

Devraging channels

Requirements

The volume of the wasteman

Excavation

Brick walls

Concrete rings walls

How to make a drain pit

How to make a drain pit

What is a cesspool

Types of cesspools

A pit of concrete rings without the bottom

Device cesspool

Location of cesspool

Construction of a cesspool

Sealed cesspool

Installation of overlaps

Source: Septikman.ru.

Drainage pit: how to make it right

In each private household, which has a household plot, the need for processing, purification and disposal of a large number of different liquids is relevant. Streams come from such treatment facilities as septic tanks, assembled by storm sewage, are formed after melting of snow. For the distribution of water directed into the ground, the drainage pit is used.

What do you need drainage pits

The drainage pit is intended for partial purification and distribution of the liquid into the soil layer. Highly occurring soil water and excessive liquid, which is formed as a result of seasonal rains or melting of snow, can sometimes create serious problems on the land plot. In addition, in a villa or country house, it is required to solve the issue with the disposal of purified waste from the sewer system of the local value, for example, septic. Read also: "How to make drainage on the site with your own hands - do the right."

An option with a simple reset of the fluid in the nearby reservoir is not always possible, and it is impossible to call it acceptable from the point of view of ecology. A reasonable solution will be directed to drainage for drain pit in the form of a well. In this construction, the waste liquid and water are subjected to additional cleaning and are distributed into the ground.

To bring the drains in drainage of a drain pit, equip special ditches or feed them through the pipeline from the sewage unit.

Devraging channels

Drainage databases are intended not only to redirect water surplus to the drainage pit, but also for partial leads to the ground. When the location of the drainage system is designed, take into account the relief of the land. If there is a height difference, it is perpendicular to the slope. Such a ditch configuration allows you to significantly lower the level of soil waters on the site (read: "Devraging drank device on the site").

On the extended slope, there are at least two drainage databases, each other is connected by bypass pipes. The last of the ditch, located at the bottom of the plot, should have access to the drainage pit (read also: "How to make drainage around the house right"). Since the leaves and garbage with rain and melt water fall into the drainage system, it must be cleaned regularly. The design of the drainage ditch (see photo) was constantly improved and now this is an effective structure, characterized by the simplicity of the device.

How to make drainage ditches on the plot

At first they make a project, and then make marking on the household plot. At the next stage, the trenches are digging, their depth can reach one meter.
Sandy sand poured on the bottom of the ditches. You can build a drainage database or closed or in an open way. With a closed embodiment, a pipe having a perforation in its lower part is placed on a sandy pillow. With the open method, the ditch is covered with a grid on top, and the walls are strengthened. In this paper, plastic or reinforced concrete products are used.

In order to increase the degree of filtering of the effluents passing by drainage channels, a combination filter is arranged in its lower part of the sand layer on which geotextiles is placed. Then the design falls asleep with rubbank. The presence of geotextiles and a chicken layer prevents blurring a sand pillow.
If the drainage drank drank is laid in a dense soil, its walls are allowed not to strengthen, leaving the sheer. When the soil crepts, the walls of the ditches are recommended to be made by gentle and unable to strengthen or use ready-made elements.

As for drainage drangies, equipped in open type, they are paved in small areas. In addition, they can only be used in the warm season.

A closed drainage system has a more complex design, it allows you to collect water from large areas and can function year-round. It is often done in the form of a Christmas tree, but it should be borne in mind that the cross-section of pipes adjacent to the drainage pit should be greater than in their distinct ends.

Construction of drainage pits do it yourself

The drainage pit is intended for water drain on the countryside, its partial cleaning and distribution in the ground. An important point in the arrangement of the well is the calculation of its required volume (more: "device of drainage wells on the site"). It must meet the capacity of the local sewage system and have a stock for the disposal of wax and rainfall.

If necessary, on the site, not one drainage pit can be equipped with their own hands, but several.

Now they can be built using different finished structures:

• use old steel barrels. They remove the bottom and lower end part;
• drainage wells are operated for a long time, for the device of which reinforced concrete rings are used;
• also for the base of the wells involve plastic products. This option is most appropriate, because the cost of their small, they weigh a little, and besides this plastic is not subject to the process of corrosion.

Device of a well made of old barrels

A relevant way is the drainage pit device from the former previously used barrel. For the supply of fluid to it, polypropylene pipes that have a section of 5 centimeters can be used. READ ALSO: "Drainage wells do it yourself - how to make it right."

They will be enough to remove water, for example, from a small bath:

1. At first, before making a drain pit, digging trenches for polypropylene pipes. To use the drainage system in winter, they need to be laid below the depth of the soil. Pipes should additionally be insulated with a layer of isolation or lay a warming cable with them.
2. Next dig a pit under the drainage well. It must be located below the level of soil freezing, so its depth depends on the region finding the site.
3. For the formation of the necessary angle of the bodice of pipes on the bottom of the trenches, the layer of rubbank is poured. Check the correctness of such work with the help level.
4. In the pit-well, the old barrel is placed, which does not have the upper and lower lids. Crushed stone on the bottom. Also using rubble is equipped with a backstage of the pit, which is placed barrel.

Create your own hands a cesspool without pumping

When building a private house, a question arises from the sewer collector: how to organize storage and disposal of wastewater. A cesspool is designed to solve this problem. Two main types of sewing holes are isolated: hermetic (or waterproof) pit and pit without a bottom (drainage). The hermetic pit does not miss the wastewater into its surrounding medium and is designed for localities with sandy soil, it is also designed with a large (more than 1 cubic meter per day).

For cleaning the waterproofed pits twice a month, a special associate of pumping machine is called. The cost of use is expensive. With a small amount of wastewater, the cesspool will be built without the bottom, such a drainage pit does not require pumping. It is quite easy to construct it, which will save considerable funds.

Requirements

Sanitary standards for the placement of cesspool drainage pits on the site

It is necessary to carefully take advantage of the placement of the placement of the cesspool, since, in violation of sanitary standards, administrative responsibility threatens. The pit should not be located outside the land plot of the developer.

For its construction, a flat surface is chosen, with a hilly relief, the lowlands of the site are chosen. It is desirable that the jam is the access of an assessing machine for pumping in the event of waste overflow. More accurate placement guidelines:

1. 4-5 meters from residential buildings.
2. 3 meters from the fence, roads, trees.
3. Not less than 25 meters from the well, well, spring.
4. 30 meters from the nearest reservoir.

Depending on the type of soil, on which the waste pit is placed, the regulated distance to the sources of drinking water changes. When placed on sandy soils, it is allowed to build a cesspool no closer than 50 meters to the wells. With clay - from 20 meters.

The volume of the wasteman

To calculate the volume of the waste hole, it is necessary to take into account the number of people living in the house. Capacity is calculated based on the fact that one person per day consumes 170 liters of water. Thus, for three people, a waste pit is needed with a volume of 10 cubic meters.

As experience shows if the pit is equipped with a good drainage system or is located on sandy soil, it is enough of a smaller volume in 6-7 cubic meters. If the pit is digging with their own hands, it is better to think over the spare amount in advance so that the extractions did not go beyond the limits of the drainage pit, and there was no need to pump.

Excavation

Earthworks are best started in the middle of summer, with stable dry weather. For the future drain pit prepared the pitual. Most often, it has dimensions of 2 meters high, width and long (8 cubic meters). You can dig it both with your own hands and with the help of an excavator.

First, the upper layer of fertile soil is removed, it is better to distribute the garden. In the future, the soil is exported. If the soil around the pit is sandy, you should fear the wrap of the walls of the pit. To avoid this, you can prepare wooden shields and temporarily place them with an emphasis along the walls of the pit.

After the required depth is reached, it is recommended to leave the pit for two days. The bottom of the cesspool should be higher than the level of autumn / spring groundwater minimum per meter. The permissible depth of the yam of this type is from 1 to 3 meters.

So that wastewater leaves faster from the pit to the soil and did not need to cause pumping, you need to prepare high-quality drainage. First, sand pits on the bottom of the pit. The thickness of such a layer should be 30 cm. After that, the bottom of the pit is lined with a special synthetic tissue (geotextile), the edges of the fabric should lean on the walls of the pit.

Sections adjacent to each other are stitched. A layer of rubble with a thickness of 10 - 20 cm is poured onto the fabric. Crushed stone is covered with a second layer of synthetic tissue. The edges of the first and second layers are stitched or shut off bitumen. In this form, the drainage layer remains until the use of the pit.

If the cesspool is created with their own hands for the country toilet (without pumping), the drainage can be simplified. A layer of sand (30 cm) is poured onto the bottom of the pit, on top of it the rubble layer (20 cm).

Summing up sewer pipe

When mounting the sewer tube, you should pay attention to the height of the level of the pipe in the pit and the pipe level in the house. It should not be less than meter. With a small height difference, the stocks will be stood in the pipe, and it is possible to break.

It is best if the pipe will go beyond the houses under the ground. The depth of the pipe must be deeper than the layer of winter blasting of the soil so that the drains do not frozen during frosts, clogging the pipe. If the pipe goes to the surface, it should be warm up well.

There are various variants of the walls of the cesspool. They are plated by bricks, logs, concrete rings and slate. The choice of material of the wall depends on the personal desire of the builder.

Brick walls

Most often, the walls of the cesspool are barely brick. This material has a number of advantages: easily accessibility, convenience of masonry, strength. It should be noted that not all bricks are equally well suited to arrange a cesspool. Silicate brick is distinguished by low moisture resistance, so it cannot be used for this purpose. What you can not say about ceramic brick, its varieties are fully suitable.

The masonry can be carried out with their own hands, by conventional solution, but the mason must leave small gaps between the side sides of the bricks and not fill it with cement. It is necessary to filter the effluent and passing them into the soil surrounding the pit. Outside the masonry should be left 30 cm space and fill it with a broken brick, gravel and sand, to improve the filtering of stock water.

Log walls / Walls from boards

In the country areas of the wall of cesspools under the street toilet (without pumping) or others are most often plated from boards, bars or make a small log cabin. This material is less durable, but it will be much cheaper than the other analogues. You can cope with design with your own hands.

If it is decided to fold the pit with boards, 4 large bar prepare first. The size is better to choose 10x10. They are covered with a special solution - protection from cored and rot (if bars from larch, protective equipment are not needed, this tree is not subjected to decades against decades). A little sharpened one end of each bar, it is necessary when attaching a bar in the land of the day of the day. Bruks must match the depth and have a reserve long, to deepen them in the bottom of the pit.

After the bars are arranged at the corners of the pit and fixed, you can start mounting boards. The most durable and thick boards (if different sizes are used) are closer to the bottom of the pit, later it is from the bottom of the bottom to the walls the strongest pressure of the Earth will be. The board covered with a special protective solution is naked in such a way that the bars are inside a wooden box.

Between the boards it is recommended to withstand a distance of 1-2 cm for the exit of stock waters in the soil. It is much more convenient to put the wooden box outside the pit, and after omitting it. But this will require the help of a crane or a large number of people, because the mass of the design will exceed 400 kg.

IMPORTANT! The log cabin is constructed in the same way. It should only be noted that the thickness of the brica will noticeably reduce the volume of stocks. In order to avoid this, it is necessary to revise the volume of the pit.

Concrete rings walls

For long-term use of stocks, it is best to construct it from concrete rings. Concrete is the most stable and unpretentious material.

Create a design from concrete rings with your own hands does not work, about their purchase you need to take care in advance. And also you need to calculate in advance, in which ring and where there will be a hole for the pipe, it is shown until immersion. When the rings are available, the question arises: how to omit them in the pit (it is worth remembering, the pit should not be completely dying at the time of the first rings). Here there is a wide range of possibilities, from the use of the crane (the mass of one rings reaches 600 kg) and the swans, before self-immersion of the rings. A more economical option will cope with this problem independently.

First digs up with a height equal to the altitude of one concrete ring. One of his edges is made partially gentle (mounted) for convenient design descent. The ring is drilled in such a way that the rings axis go to the center of the pit.

With the help of a lever from the bar (the length of 3 m) is recommended) the ring turns over, melts to the canopy edge and gently slides down in a vertical position. For the convenience of descent to a gentle edge, you can lay out boards. After the first ring took his position, the builder goes down and starts the recess of the pit from the inside rings.

Gradually, with an increase in the depth of the pit, the ring smoothly will settle. After that, the same operation is done with the next ring. It is very important to monitor a strictly horizontal design level when the pit is deepened. After lowering all the rings, the holes are drilled in their walls (5 cm is recommended) every 30 cm in the vertical direction, they are intended for the production of stock water.

The design of walls from slate sheets

A simple and original way is to lay the walls of the drain pit with slate sheets. This material is not afraid of moisture, but fairly fragile, what to take into account when choosing. The design will not be difficult, with it you can cope with your own hands. Produce a blank of four iron corners (bent longitudinal metal strip), holes for future fastening are drilled in them.

Four slate sheets (it is better to choose a special flat, and not wavy for the roofs, wavy less durable) omit into the pit. Next, an assembly is made: corners (to two leaves from the opposite side) are screwed to the leaves of slate with self-drawn), all the leaves of the slate and the frame are ready. Holes drill holes for the production of stock water.

This information will be useful not only for the improvement of the country area, but also help construct a cesspool for a private house with their own hands. Such a pit will not require pumping, which will significantly save the costs of its construction.

How to make a drain pit

How to make a drain pit

Nowadays, the cesspool is a decent alternative to local sewage and, with proper arrangement, it will be able to effectively and for a long time to deliver you from wastewater.

Such a pit is very simple, it is easy to do it yourself, not attracting specialists and equipment.

At the same time, a drain pit can be made in different ways, each of which will not require any special costs.

What is a cesspool

The cesspool is the simplest design in essence, but it is strengthened and it is built in different ways.

It is represented by a dug apart, to which the sewer tube is supplied. The wastewater is directly falling there and through the drainage pillow absorbed into the soil.

If the type of soil is not able to absorb a large amount of water, it is boomed from the pit forcibly, different types of pumps.

An example of arrangement in the private house of the drain pit you see below.

The advantages of this design are low costs and the ability to make it quickly and independently.

The disadvantage is that a pit with waste pollutes the environment and in case of insufficient sealing can spread the unpleasant smell on the site.

If there is a source of drinking water nearby, then it is necessary to make a fully sealed pit.

Types of cesspools

All cesspools differ in strength and degrees of their strengthening. Of course, more time will go to the arrangement of a stronger pit, but it can stop for many years.

A pit waters can be open and closed. If you make a reliable hatch for the drain pit, then unpleasant odors will be felt less or they will not be heard at all.

With the open pit, the water simply flows into a manually digging by manually, without closing and without strengthening. If necessary, this pit is simply thrown out earth.

In addition, pits can be built with the help of different materials.

Depending on this, the criterion cesspools are divided as permanent and temporary.

Continuous options include:

• drain pit of brick, slagoblock. The walls of the dug holes are laid with brick or cheaper blocks;
• pit of concrete rings. It is done in the form of a hermetic well, the walls of which consist of ready-made concrete rings. When installing, it requires the participation of the crane or other equipment, as the parts are too heavy;
• the monolithic pit from concrete is expensive, but more reliable option. The device passes by the laying of the foundation. May require external waterproofing;
• various plastic containers. Such a pit will be safe and completely sealed, guarantees the lack of unpleasant odors and durable. The minus is that such containers have a sufficiently small volume and require frequent cleaning and pumping;

An example of a permanent pit using a plastic tank you see below.

Cesspool of a plastic container

Options for permanent drain pit can also be with a bottom or without bottom.

The pit without the bottom can be built if the daily drain in the sewer does not exceed one cubic meter of water.

Also playing the ability of the soil to absorb drain water. The pit without the bottom is suitable for sandy types of land and with low groundwater.

You can look below for a cesspool without the bottom.

A pit of concrete rings without the bottom

A chubnery pillow pillows on the bottom, through which water goes into the soil.

Pits with the bottom are more complex and expensive, but effective option. In this case, at the bottom of the pit, a concrete screed is made, and it turns out to be completely isolated.

With such a device, a constant pumping of water is required, but this pit does not pollute the soil and prevents unpleasant odors due to the hatch, which is covered at the top.

To temporary cesspools can be attributed to:

• tire pit. In this case, it is digging, in which the tires of different diameters are installed, and the outer walls fall asleep with sand. Through the tires are carried out pipe, and water falls there directly. This pit is not completely isolated and short-lived, suitable for infrequent plum;
• celmary pit from a tree. Her walls are trimmed with thick boards or other wooden materials. The pit for some time will not be sprinkled, but it will not be able to perform their functions for a long time, as the tree will quickly deteriorate from the water. The device of such a pit you see in the figure below;

• pitments of girlfriend. It can be slate, stone and other materials to strengthen the walls of the pit. This will help not worry about plum for some time, but is also a short-dealing option.

The view of the Poam depends on how much time, money and strength you can spend on its arrangement, but the optimal option is the device of a constant isolated pit with a bottom that will serve for many years.

Device cesspool

How to make a drain pit? Before you directly engage in the construction of a drain pit, you need to accurately calculate the place and volume for it.

First of all, it must be said that following sanitary standards, a cesspool should be located as follows:

• at a distance from the dwelling of 5-20 meters;
• retreat at least a meter from the fence, that is, from the edge of the site;
• location 20-50 meters further sources of drinking water or wells.

The lifting motion scheme for plum is shown in the figure below, where 1 is a cesspool itself.

Location of cesspool

The volume of the pit is calculated depending on how many people live in the house and with which periodicity is used to drain into the sewer.

For example, about 12 cubic meters of water leaves for a family of three people per month.

You still need to take into account the type of soil, if you suggest a pit without the bottom. The ability to absorb the amount of water you use is not every type. For example, clay soil misses a very small volume and, in this case, it is more expedient to make a pit with a bottom or constantly pump water.

When calculating the volume, it is necessary to take into account that initially the pit must be filled, not reaching the surface on the meter. Thus, the pipe of the sewage is supplied.

After its gasket, the pipe falls asleep, and the volume of the pits increases for this meter.

Construction of a cesspool

If you build a cesspool for giving or house where you are rarely, then it is cheaper and easier to build a cesspool without the bottom, that is, absorbing pit.

The process of its construction will pass like this:

• at the first stage, the pit is digging. To the desired depth, it is necessary to add a place for a pillow - a filter that will help drain water, absorb soil;
• at the same time, the device of walls and sewage pipes are made, which are packed at an angle;
• laying pipe inside the pit. This pipe should also enter the pit at an angle so that the fluid is fluid flow;
• if the walls are made of brick, then the overlap is made and the hatch is installed.

Such a pit can be arranged by the simplest way, and with rare use will serve for a long time and reliably.

If you live on the site constantly, then you should make the same pit, but it is to cover it with a knitted reinforcement and pour concrete. Then it will be hermetic and safe. On the outside of the walls, it is also possible to make waterproofing from rubberoid or other materials. This will give the strength of the cesspool.

You can also be installed in the pita and sealed capacity of the desired volume, as shown in the image below.

Sealed cesspool

The most inexpensive options will be the construction of the Eurocuba or using plastic containers.

The construction of hermetic pits takes such steps:

• drying is a container;
• sliding sewer pipes below the soil winter friction level;
• a ventilation exit device that is done so that harmful gases do not accumulate in a sealed container. Ventilation should be at a distance of 70 cm from the surface;
• the pit is falling asleep with sand or earth.

This pit will require constant care and pumping, but for its durability can not be worried. It is ideal if the groundwater level on the site is high, but with such a factor, the container needs to argue or strengthen, causing the bottom, otherwise it can simply pop up when the spring water rises above.

Installation of overlaps

At the very end of construction on the surface of the pit, the overlap is made, which protects the walls from destruction and completes the design of a constant drain pit, making it safe.

Overlap are made from different materials, but in any case they must withstand the weight of two adults. Most often it is a concrete plate, which is stacked in the finished form or poured manually.

Installation of overlap in the form of a concrete slab, cast on its own, the following steps are:

• the earth is 20 centimeters from different sides;
• formwork is made throughout the perimeter of the hatch;
• strengthening the plate with the help of reinforcement. The section is 100-150 mm;
• the design is poured with concrete and plugs well in order to avoid air pockets;
• concrete levels and freezes. This process can be considered completed in a month.

An example of mounting overlap you see in the figure below.

After this work, the formwork is cleaned and you can install the hatch. The overlap remains in the same form or falling asleep soil for thermal insulation.

How to turn your wet plot into a full-fledged courtyard and garden with blooming plants? Drainage prevents the caution of rain / mole water at the local area, minimizes groundwater harm. Also drainage allows free to get clean water suitable for watering.

Why do soil drainage

The drainage of the soil is produced in order to lead groundwater or excessive moisture accumulating after the rains, snow melting. Is it worth reminding how many misfortunes can do constant dampness:

• catching fences;
• flowing flower beds and gardens;
• burst foundation;
• mold in the basement, etc.

Drainage is needed if:

1. Groundwater level less than 1 m from the surface of the Earth;
2. The ground around the house is clay / looming with low water reservoirs;

1. The site is located on the slope (a transverse drainage ditch is installed or several included in the central highway).
2. The compound is in lowland (the perimetral system of drainage pipes is stacked).

1. The local area is flat, water does not have natural drains and is stuffed.

Types of drainage

Depending on the depth of groundwater, the geological structure of the dried plot and the nature of the object is equipped with a certain drainage system. Local drainage systems use local drainage systems for drainage at home and business buildings.

Types and functions of local drainage:

1. Plastic or filter bedLocated directly under the building on a weak-dimensional soil. Prevents the flow of moisture is already in capillary form. It is placed simultaneously with the construction of the house. It is advisable in the presence of a deep basement / underground garage.
   The filtering bed is a layer of rubble / gravel, rubble and sand or geocomposite, associated with the DREN system, leaving for the outer walls of the foundation at least 0.7 m;

After construction work, such a drainage will be impossible to carry out, so geological surveys are needed at the design stage.

1. Annular - also protects from flooding part of the house below the ground level. The effectiveness of the drainage depends on the depth of the pipes, as well as the size of the contour. Unlike the reservoir can fit after the construction of the house;

1. Wonderful- It is used in the case of a house on a waterproof soil. Pipes with filtering sprinkling are laid outside the object;

1. Cotton - It is arranged in places of ordinary "wet" works: a platform for washing the car, washing carpets, at a plumbing column.

Performing a common task to stabilize the water balance of the Earth, the device of drainage structures may have differences. This dissimbat makes it possible to effectively use designs on the relief of any complexity, save money and time.

Design differences drainage:

1. Horizontal - It is a pipeline placed between the filtering layers of sand, gravel, geocanies. The system includes viewing wells for pipe maintenance. This can also include ditch / trenches and rainwater drains - sewer pipes / concreted channels;

1. Vertical - Multiple wells, of which water can go down naturally / through a bored well, pump pumps or act on the combined system of DRET to the collector;

1. Combined (The name speaks for itself) is a device at the same time horizontal and vertical drainage.

How to find out whether drainage is needed in the yard

Before you start volumetric work, in each case you need to make sure the need for a similar event.

How to determine the moisture:

1. Hide a well in 0.5 m increments, checking the dryness of the soil. Gradually, to lower the rope with the ship and a piece of paper, noting on the rope each meter. The depth on which the paper remains dry, means the upper level of groundwater;
2. In the area of \u200b\u200bNovostroek, it is checked by the pit on the sector of neighbors - whether there are water there, how much, it flows and where it is either stuck;

1. In the presence of wells - the water level is exactly visible;
2. Inscribe the local population for seasonal / permanent floodings.

Do not ignore natural tips. If the territory is growing in moisture, reed, horsetail, forget-me-not, Kaluzhnitsa, there are clusters of mosquitoes, it means that without drainage cannot do.

Professional help

Full information on the structure of the Earth within a certain territory gives an organization engaged in the geology of the Earth. It has a special technique and the ability to carry out professional surveys.

Based on the information received, it is clearly defined:

1. Geological structure of the site;
2. Square in need of drainage;
3. Characteristic movement of groundwater;
4. Changes in groundwater level at a finished drainage system and.

The study of the soil is useful for the design of the house and the drainage system (these events are better in parallel). Documentary justification such works can be found in SP 47.13330.2012, 11-104-97, 11-105-97. Works are expensive - the cost of drilling will be average from 600 to 2500 rubles / 1 m.

Equipment for drainage

The drainage system is a single design, the elements of which are intended for collecting, passing and accumulating excess water. If you delete even one structural element, the drainage will deteriorate and gradually comes to no.

What is the system:

1. Drain with a diameter of 100-180 mm;
2. Watching / drainage wells (240-360 mm);
3. Absorption well (may not be);
4. Collector, final chain link. It accumulates water coming from all pipes on site.

Comparative characteristics of drainage pipes

Pipes for the drainage of the soil due to the porous surface possess absorbency, justifying their purpose. Not all owners of private house-building have a special technique or the opportunity to order it. It is of great importance for them to work with such material with their own hands without spending tremendous physical efforts.

What types of pipes can be used:

1. Asbestos-cement;
2. Ceramic;
3. Polymer - polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polypropylene (PP), low pressure polyethylene (PND);
4. Perfocor - high-modulus polyethylene + minerals. Two-layer (diameter 110, 160, 200 mm). Perforated over the entire surface are used for deep drainage, with perforation only to the top - to remove the rover.

It is necessary to take into account the weight of the material, the ease of cutting the fragments needed along the length, a convenient connection of segments and, of course, the cost. As a rule, instead of pipes of prehistoric materialism, plastic counterparts are most often choosing.

Asbesto-cement

Asbic cementary BST DRere is suitable for sections with groundwater depth to 2.5 m. But it is unlikely that there is a person who agrees to use bulky heavy pipes of the era of prehistoric materialism. You can turn them only with cranes + the heavenly work of professionals. The service life of such drains is from 30 to 35 years.

The advantages of asbetic pipes:

Perhaps one thing is not afraid of frost, fire, aggressive environments.

disadvantages:

1. Considering the service life + the cost of installation work, it becomes clear that such pipes will cost more;
2. The rough inner surface is quickly styled;
3. Heavy. For example, BST-100 3950 mm long weighs just over 23 kg;
4. High price - 1 pc. About 500 rubles.

Ceramic

Natural material suggests the right thoughts on the environmental purity of the surrounding world. Only the mad popularity of the inhabitants of clay drains also do not use - the material is heavy, fragile and requires increased attention.

What is good ceramics:

1. The inner smooth surface is not lured for a long time;
2. Service life of up to 50 years;
3. Environmentally friendly material.

disadvantages:

1. The length of the segments is small - up to 1500 mm, and this means a lot of junctions requiring rubber seals, sealant. As a result, the high cost of installation + high cost of the drains themselves;
2. The smooth surface does not hold geocan;
3. It is afraid of frost, additional insulation is required.

Plastic

Easy inexpensive material without special problems has become familiar. Working with plastic drainage pipes with their own hands is not an example more pleasant than with their classic counterparts.

Polymer pipes are different:

1. Structurally - single and two-layer. With filter coating / without it;
2. According to strength, corrugated has an increased hardness class indicated by the SN index. The higher the index, the greater the depth of the pipe, for example, SN2 - 2 m, SN4 - 3 m, Sn 6 - 4 m, SN16 - more than 10 m;
3. Release form - Bobbins for 40-50 m (flexible), segments 6 and 12 m (tough).

Advantages of plastic DRET.:

1. Some have the finished winding-filter - geosynthetic polyester material from staple fibers, in use it is called geotextile / geometal (not decomposing); coke fiber (decomposed);
2. Resistant to aggressive media, corrosion;
3. Relatively cheap;
4. Lungs (weight of the 50-meter bay from 13 to 55 kg);
5. Moderate cost - from 70 to 7000 rubles / Pog. m.;
6. Construction integrity when the soil is shifted.
7. The longest service life is from 50 years and longer.

Disadvantage - The need to use in the design of angular nodes / fittings.

Wells, their functions

There are several types of wells in the system, one of which is mandatory, while others can be refused. The well is a corrugated / smooth-suited mine (pipe). Its bottom has a passing / tee inputs for DRET, located perpendicular to the case.

The instruction instructs the height of the inlets relative to the bottom of at least 40 cm. The throat of the well is closed with a decorative lid.

Types of wells:

1. Rotary / watch - Locked on the turns of the pipeline or connects several pipes. In some classifications, these wells are considered separately, although they perform the same functions;

Wells have constructive features, differ in size. For a rotary, a corrugated pipe D 100-460 mm is often used, for a plastic container with an inlet opening of at least 1000 mm so that the person can fall inside for maintenance.

1. Absorbing / submersible - Installed point (the drainage system is not intended) in the low point / points of the site. The diameter of the maintenance of the service should be sufficient so that a person can get inside;

1. Collector - Quite large capacity capable of accommodating the contents of drainage pipes and storm sewage. If the site borders with drawing land and relief decreases, the wastewalk is output abroad.

Popular pipe manufacturers, fittings, wells and components:

1. InstalPlast (Poland);
2. FD Plast, Rodlex, Rostok, Polypajps (Russia).
3. Wavin (Czech Republic).

In favor of the installation of the factory well, there is a price variability - from 1000 to 8,000 rubles, a small weight, minimum of work. Well made of concrete rings, bricks will increase the cost of material, special transport, solution.

Installation of wells: Subtleties

For an observation well, a fragment of the corrugation is used, at the bottom of which the holes are cut under the drain. The bottom is glued with waterproof mastic or other special means. The pipe is connected to the housing using rubber seals. The turn signal is installed on the pillow from sand and rubble, on the sides, is sprinkled with rubble.

Installing the absorption well more laborious, most often for it is used by rail rings, requiring certain skills or help specialists. The depth of the structure exceeds the level of frosting of the soil, and the diameter depends on the degree of waterproof the soil - the lower, the wider well.

If necessary, at the base, additional wells are placed in order to reach a layer of land capable of absorbing water. The well creates a metal perforated pipe capable of withstanding soil shifts. This pipe protrudes from a well to a height of 0.5-0.7 m. The bottom of the structure is covered with a layer of granite rubble.

The drainage pit for water flow is made from the rings or from stone with the sealing of the joints. Install ready-made PVC collector faster and cheaper. In this case, the smooth pure base is with great importance - protrusions, pits and sharp items can damage the case. The optimal option will be a cement base, sprinkled with a sandy-gravel mixture, trambus each layer.

The main rules for laying drainage

The rules for laying the drainage system are based primarily on elementary logic. For example, a bias is needed towards the collector so that water flows, and not stood in the drain.

The layer of geoticani separating the design from the ground, and the sprinkle of the pipes play the role of additional filters and insulation. Storm drains are a separate building with their specificity.

Open system

The easiest way is the open horizontal drainage - the famous ditch of a depth of 700 mm, with a width of 500 mm with a spoke of the side walls of 30 °. So that the edges do not float, half the trenches are filled with large rubble, and from above small. You can disguise the stones by the turf, but the functionality of the ditches will decrease sharply.

Crumbn fridge turns a ditch into something resembling a garden path, which can be used in decorative purposes in the garden. As an option, the construction is masked by artificial coating. The trench can become a temporary option before laying the depth drainage.

Closed drainage

How to make a removal of rainwater? Rains can enjoy the monthly rate of Sadkov in a few days. A crowded drain instead of the fence of water will saturate her earth. If the in the fall of overwhelmed loam will freeze, the foundation, the scene can be taken, and the wet basement "flourishing" spots of mold.

Equipment for Livnevka:

1. Sewer smooth-beam PVC pipes D 110-200 mm;
2. Pestoflates - Plastic type 2 containers in 1. The inner capacity is removed to remove the accumulated sand, leaves and twigs;
3. Decorative lattice covering the holes of sandplants;

Under the landing, it is not necessary to dig a separate trench, the pipes can be laid parallel to drainage pipes.

The following variant of the storm sewer is shallow concrete gutter, in which the corresponding trays from plastic are inserted. The joints between the trays are sealed, and on top over the entire length of the trays are covered with grilles. The flow of water is carried out in the well or output from the site if the conditions allow.

You can check the finished ravnevy can be pouring into every gutter on the bucket of water. It should be flown in a bucket suspended in a well. If the amount of poured and assembled water coincides, then the bias is observed and the system is ready to operate.

Deep drainage

This type of drainage is used to dry the Earth or creating an optimal moisture mode for plant roots. In the first case, the drain is located below the groundwater level.

In the second - the deepening of the pipes is averaged and depends on the type of green plantings. For the garden of the middle depth of the pipe of the pipe is considered 1.5 m, flower - 0.9 m.

Installation of the system:

1. Make a drainage plan. The arrangement of DRET will depend on the terrain;
2. The trenches are paved (usually a shovel) on average 40 cm. The depth in each case depends on the level of groundwater;
3. Put the trench from the inside geotextile, the pinching on the edges with chopsticks / sins.

1. At the turns to establish viewing wells;
2. On the bottom of the ditching layer of rubble / construction debris, transmitting water, 5-10 cm thick, levels;
3. The pipe for the ditch is stacked on the crushed stone, the fitting connection of the side drain with the main pipeline, with viewing wells, manifold;
4. The structure falls asleep from the sides and on top of the next layer of rubble layer of 10-15 cm;
5. Geocatian edges are superimposed by one on another, wrapped in full tube.

Before falling down trenches, the performance of the drainage is desirable to check. After a good rain it becomes clear how good the water comes. If there are flaws in work, they will need to correct.

Summarizing

Now you know that Rips, ditches, pits and trenches are extremely helpful: the problems of raw basements, rain puddles and stiff trees will disappear. If any moments in the article seemed difficult, see the video: I hope it will help to figure it out.

The removal of soil and stormwater from the foundation will significantly increase the service life and capital building, and the country's construction. Easy in the device The drainage system will save underground concrete structures from gradual erosion, and basements from the edge. But it is extremely important to prevent the destruction of the foundation of the structure, right?

A competent drainage diagram around the house will help to build an effectively active system for collecting and removing natural water. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the carefully selected and verified information based on the regulatory documents and the real experience of builders of low-rise objects.

We will thoroughly tell about the types of drainage systems, the features of their device, the specifics of operation. We bring arguments in favor of selecting a certain type of drainage. The useful information proposed to your attention are supplemented with photos, schemes and video instructions.

Designing the drainage system, first of all determine the goals that are planned to be achieved. They can be in the drainage of the entire site, in protecting the foundation and basement at home from excess moisture.

Of the existing drainage systems, two main types can be distinguished - open and depth (closed). The first can be used for the needs of agriculture, for drainage from the cultivated territories. Closed drainage is used to remove water in the country and cottage sites, to protect buildings from the negative effects of high-corne.

The organization of the drainage system is necessary at a high groundwater mirror, which is especially manifested in the flood period. Drainage to protect against the aggression of underground water concrete foundation and reduce the hydraulic load

The combined drainage systems also use. They are often complemented by storm sewers intended for disposal of atmospheric water. Subject to their competent design, they allow you to significantly save on the construction of each system separately.

Gallery of images

The first and main feature, according to which the site owners need to arrange drainage, is stagnant water during the snowmast. This means that the soil underlying soil have a low filtration capacity, i.e. poorly pass water or don't miss it at all

Drainage is needed in areas with pronounced signs of soil erosion: cracks appearing in a dry period. This is a manifestation of soils to groundwater, resulting in the end to the destruction

Collection and removal of water is required if in the period of snowy and abundant rain falling groundwater rises to the level of laying of communications

Drainage systems are built on sections with a characteristic bias. But in this case, they are needed for a balanced water distribution and holding it on the sublime sites.

Flooding of the site during the snowmation

Erosion and soared under the foundation

Water at the laying level of communications

Country

# 1: open drainage device

Open drainage is the easiest and most economical way to drive water, which can be applied subject to the following conditions:

• the underlying soil layer are grunted clay, poorly passing water, because of which the fertile reservoir, located on 20 - 30 cm from the surface of the Earth, was rejected;
• the site is located in the lowland, into which rainwater flows naturally during a period of abundant dropping;
• there is no natural slope in the relief of the site, ensuring the movement of excess water towards the street.

Open drainage is arranged in areas with a high corner, the mark of which is most often due to the location of the land in a lowline or clay composition of soils that do not miss or quite weakly pass water into the underlying layers.

The drainage system designed to remove the excess of groundwater, perfectly works in a pair with a lavety, whose work is to assemble and tap atmospheric precipitation (+)

Planning the drainage scheme is best carried out at the design stage of the house. This will allow you to associate work and place a rainmaker under drainage to the device of the scene.

Open drainage is considered the simplest and does not require the compilation of the scheme. It is a trench of 0.5 m wide and a depth of 0.6-0.7 m. The side of the trench is located at an angle of 30 °. They are squeezed by the territory around the perimeter and send wastewater into a ditch or pita, in a storm sewer.

The territory with a bias towards the street is easier to be drained. To do this, in front of the house, the slope across the drain ditch, which will delay the water from the garden. Then they dig a ditch, it will guide the streets towards the street, in the ditch.

If the site has a slope in the opposite direction from the road, then the transverse drainage ditch is rotated in front of the facade of the fence and one more longitudinal is done until the end of the site.

The disadvantage of such a drainage is its low aesthetics and the need to regularly clean the grooves from yals and dirt, which periodically accumulates in them. This type of drainage is not recommended to be arranged under the road surface, as it leads to the sedimentation of the soil and deformation of the canvas

The length of the water flow lines, the number of wells and sandblasts depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe site, its relief, the intensity of precipitation in a particular area.

Waterproof ditch can be strengthened from erosion using reinforced concrete plates, stone paving, obesniki with crushed bottom

If the site is considered to be more or less smooth, and the level of its wetlands is not too high, then you can do the device of the simplest drainage system.

Along the foundation of the fence, in the lowest site, the ditch is rotated with a width of 0.5 m, a length of 2-3 m and a depth of 1 m. Such a drainage of though protects from high angle, and perfectly cope with atmospheric precipitation.

So that the edges of the ditches are not collapsed, it is filled with rubble, broken glass and brick. Fill in it, dig up the following, it is also filled and tightly tamped. The outlined ground is used for low-spirits in the territory

Over time, this simplest drainage system can lose performance due to gradual gradation. That this does not happen, it can be protected by geopolo. It is placed on the ground, after filling in the ditches, the shoulder closes the drainage layer. From above to hide the ditch, it is sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil.

# 2: Effective Livnevy Construction

Storm sewage is necessary for accumulation and output from a water section falling in the format of atmospheric precipitation. It is equipped with point and linear waterborne devices.

Gallery of images

Storm sewer systems are suitable for collecting atmospheric water and prevent its penetration into the soil, and then into the underlying soils

By type of water-driven devices, storm sewage systems are divided into point and linear. The first build on areas with organized drain, the second - with an unorganized

Linear water receivers have a significantly larger area than that of point. They are installed next to houses with an inorganized drainage and on sites paved by waterproof coating.

In linear mountaineering, water both going and is transported over the network of channels closed with a metal or plastic grille. In point systems, water removal is made by the system of pipes laid in the ground

Storm sewerage with a point water receiver

Channel Channels Point Livnevy

Water reservations linear varieties

Structure of trays with lattices

The first type of water collectors is installed under the risers of an organized drainage system. The second type of water collectors is located under the rods with an inorganized drainage.

Water falling into the waterborg moves along an open or closed pipeline. It is assigned either to the overall waterborne well, or to a collector well, from which moves to a centralized sewer network or a wastewater.

The rainmaker is a container for collecting water, equipped with removal for connecting pipes of a linear drainage system. Devices are made of durable plastic or cast iron (+)

The elements of the storm system with point water collectors are also drain drainage, ladders, dampers. Some manufacturers provide for the possibility of connecting rain-seekers with roofing gardens, as well as with underground water disposal systems.

In addition, ready-made production models provide for sands and garbagers that simplify system maintenance.

The device with an installed decorative grid must be located below 3-5 mm than the level of the track, soil

This is a system of drainage gutters made of plastic or concrete, which are installed on the plot in those places in which water accumulation is most likely, but extremely undesirable.

For a catchment well, choose the most remote place from home, well, cellar. If nearby is a natural or artificial reservoir, then the removal of water can be organized into it

Designing with linear water drives, the first thing is planned to place a catchment or collector well. Next, determine the place of the rotary and revision wells. Their arrangement will depend on the placement of rain-seekers-grooves and closed sewage branches.

So that the water from the street did not fall into the courtyard, the gutter is installed along the line of the gate leading to the courtyard, garage gates, as well as in the wicket area. When selecting the elements of the system that will be installed on the roadway, take into account the future load on them.

So that the moisture does not get inside the building, the bias of the coating in the garage are made towards the water-made lattice. So water, when washing the car or thawing snow on the vehicle, will flush in the chute.

Drainage trays must be installed on the porch, around the pool. They are also installed along the gentlestock, garden tracks laid out of facing material sites

To impart a neat species, special trays of polymer concrete, plastic, which are closed with metal or plastic lattices are used. At the entrance to the house use a special pallet for cleaning the shoes.

Grid for a gutter installed near the pool, choose plastic, white, to avoid burns on a hot summer day.

With intensive operation, drainage trays are mounted on a concrete base. The higher the class of load on the roadway, the greater thickness there must be a concrete sole (+)

The gutter and water reception points are connected to the drainage tank. In places, the jetty and pipes include revision wells. They are designed to facilitate access to the system and clean it from possible clogging.

Audit wells are made mainly of plastic. In order to obtain the necessary depth, their design provides for the possibility of extension using special extension elements.

Accommodation, bias and length of storm sewage pipes - all these characteristics are very individual and depend on many conditions on the site

A wide range of system elements allows the most rational to design, which will be optimal from a technical and financial point of view.

The main elements of the linear drainage are gutters made of concrete, polymer concrete, plastic, point receivers, sand-trap, grilles (+)

# 3: Construction of closed drainage options

Underground, closed drainage is used if the open system device takes too much space on the plot or it does not fit into the landscaped picture of the territory. The conditions for its device closed drainage system are similar to the prerequisites for the organization of a network of open drainage drangies and cuvettes.

Closed drainage schemes are used to protect the foundation, basement from the impact of groundwater and increase their service life. Them by analogy with open applied to drain the country territory from excess groundwater

In mandatory, you need to organize underground drainage on the plot if:

• it is in lowland, in a wetland;
• near buildings is natural reservoir;

Underground drainage can be divided into two types:

• wailed drainage;
• trench (plastic) drainage.

Both types of underground drainage are performed at the construction stage of the building. If it was decided to embark on the problem of drainage after the construction of the house, then the trench ring system is used. There are limitations for the use of trench drainage. It can be used if there is no basement in the house.

The fact is that, after, the belling of the pit and the ground creates a more loose medium between the rooted rock and the foundation. As a result, the ridder penetrates this environment and then even the presence of a castle from clay does not protect the construction from the effects of moisture.

Therefore, if there is a basement in the house, it is best to make a victim drainage to efficient drainage. He drainage is used to drive groundwater directly from the foundation of the building, to protect basements, cellars, basement floods from flooding.

It is impossible to plant trees and shrubs. The distance to the landed tree may be at least two meters and to the bush at least one meter

Wounded limits the increase in water level, not allowing its raising above the line of the location of the drainage tubes - drain. It is believed that the drainage tube with a length of 1 m is able to dry up a plot of about 10-20 m 2.

The pipe with the arrangement of a used drainage is placed around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the DREN bookmark can not be below the base of the foundation plate or the soles of the foundation. If the foundation is strongly bueled, the pipe laying is allowed somewhat above its base (+)

The distance from the drainage pipe to the foundation depends on the accommodation features. They are laid in every corner (or after one angle) of the building, as well as in places of turns and pipe connections.

Audit wells are also located in the places of the large area of \u200b\u200bthe level of the site and with a large length of the pipes - the distance between the wells should be not more than 40 meters.

In the audit well, the pipe cannot be solid, it breaks. This is done so that when clogging the pipeline remains the possibility of rinse it using high pressure hose

The whole system closes on the last well. It must be located in the lowest place. Next, water flows into the usual sewer or outdoor reservoir. If there is no possibility to remove the water from home by gravity, then the pumping equipment is installed and forcibly pumped out.

To ensure the sampling of water, the pipes are placed to the side to the collector. The bias must be two centimeters per meter of the drainage pipeline. The depth of the pipe location should be greater than the depth of the soil freezing.

The pipe is falling asleep with drainage material - gravel, small rubble or sand. The minimum layer that will ensure the flow of water in DRETU - 0.2 m

In order to save on geocomposite materials and prevent their mixing with the soil, geotextiles use. He freely skips water to the drains and at the same time delays particles that lead to casing. The pipe itself before filling is also necessary to wrap in protective material. Some models of the drain are produced with ready-made filters from geotextiles.

It is possible to increase the efficiency of the used drainage using a profiled polymer membrane, which is two- or three-layer. One of its layers is a polyethylene film, with formed protrusions, a second layer of membrane - geotextile tissue.

The three-layer membrane is equipped with an additional layer of smooth polyethylene film. The membrane helps to filter out water from the soil and simultaneously serves as a waterproofing layer for the foundation of the building.

Closed trench-type drainage protects the structure from flooding and humidification. It is a filtering layer that falls asleep into a trench at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the wall of the house.

It is better that the depth of the drain is 0.5 m deeper the base of the foundation - so water will not have pressure from below. A layer of clay soil remains between the trenches with drainage and the foundation of the house, which serves as the so-called clay castle.

As with the installation of a used drainage system, the drain is stacked on a gravel layer or a small rubble. And the pipes and the gravel layer are protected by geotextile from clogging.

# 4: Construction of a used drainage in steps

In order to gain a visual view of the drainage device process around the country house, consider an example. The plot given in it required the device of the brine of the groundwater, because Under the soil and vegetable layer, loams and sandy are located, extremely poorly transmitting water due to low filtration capacity.

Gallery of images

For the drainage device we develop a trench around the house. Since the work was made by a mini-excavator, then retreated from the walls of 1.2 m, so as not to damage the construction. If you save manually, you can be taken closer. Bottom of the production of 20-30 cm below the foundation

The branches formed around the house of the trench should have a bias towards the common trench, intended for the removal pipe of the assembled water to the collector well

The bottom of the trench smell sand. His trambra and form a bias of 2-3 cm on the trafficphone meter. Dog send to the side of the total trench, the bottom of which is also dumbling and the trambam. In case of crossing the trench communications, we take into account that the drainage pipes should be held below them

We prepare drains, perforated polymer pipes, to laying in a trench. Wrap them with geotextiles, which will prevent the system clogging and profil defines the groundwater

The ramped bottom of the trench we stood up the second layer of geotextile, we embarrass the gravel and put the drain on it

The channels of removal of water sewage and the drainage system are placed in one trench. Exammable water collected from them to allocate in one collector and use common viewing wells.

Wrapped the gravel hiding together with the drainage pipe by the second layer of geotectifyl, we fall asleep the trench by career sand. We do not use the ground, reclined in the development of trenches, the sand will be better to skip the water to collect DRAIN

The total trench, to which the circular drainage is supplied, brought to the installation site of the collector well

One of the most important stages of bathing is the organization of timely disposal of wastewater in the sewage treatment plant. The most accessible version of the sewer system is a drain pit for a bath.

To ensure the safe use of the drainage system, until the start of work, it is recommended to carefully examine its design features and fulfill the necessary calculations, and at the construction stage - follow the main recommendations of specialists.

Varieties of drain pits

Sleepy pits are three types: a hermetic reservoir, a yam of drainage type and a multi-chamber septic.

Hermetic cesspool is the easiest and safest facility, which eliminates the penetration of polluting effluents and household chemicals in the soil and aquifer. It is constructed on land with a high level of groundwater.

The design is represented by a simple hermetic reservoir inserted into the ground to the desired depth. A feature of the cesspool is the need to regularly pump accumulated water drains. The essential disadvantages of the hermetic reservoir include the complexity and high cost of maintenance.

The drainage pit for a drain is the most sought-after option for private baths that do not have baths. In this case, an open container is shutdown that does not have a hermetic base. The bottom filter uses a gravel-crushed stone mixture. The design of the drainage pit involves the presence of special holes necessary for the output of purified liquid into the soil.

The primary hermetic chamber provides for the collection and initial filtering: waste in solid form at the bottom, and the fluid passes additional cleaning of aerobic type microorganisms. The tank is connected to the second compartment of the overflow tube, which provides the flow of purified fluid. The second chamber performs the function of the drainage pit, where the water passes the secondary cleaning and is displayed in the soil.

If the septicch consists of three compartments, then the drainage chamber is installed last. In this case, in the second chamber, a deeper purification of impurities and pollutants occurs, after which the purified fluid enters the drainage tank.

Available Materials for Building Drain Pit

The choice of suitable material for the construction of a drain drainage pit under the bath depends on the structural features of the structure, the volume of wastewater and the financial capabilities of the owner of the site.

Pits from barrels

Reservoirs can be built from barrels, metal and plastic, various volumes. Such a system involves the use of one or two drainage containers:

• One container. The bottom of the prepared pit is falling asleep with a drainage mixture of rubble and gravel, then the plastic container is lowered in it without the bottom and with a perforated surface. The distance between the barrel and the drinke was falling asleep. A waste pipe is connected to the barrel at an angle. Part of the liquid through the drainage holes will flow into the soil for further purification.
• Two tanks. Such a system involves the use of two barrels, while the first is set to 25 cm above the second. Capacities are connected to each other overflow. Stocks come to the first container in which third-party impurities and solid waste are settled. Next, the purified fluid is overflowing into the second tank to which the perforated pipes for drainage are connected. Waste elements are installed in trenches filled with drainage material and a dense layer of soil.

Brick pit

A ceramic brick is used to arrange drain yams, which is performed with low gaps - they provide the drainage into the drainage pillow and the soil. The principle of operation of such a drainage system does not differ from the previous one, the difference is used by the material. The distance between the brick reservoir and the earth ground is filled with drainage material designed to purify the effluents and distributing them around the perimeter of the pit.

The brick pit is considered longer and practical compared to the design of plastic barrels.

Concrete pit

With technical equipment and financial capabilities, you can build a drainage pit from concrete rings with a perforated surface, which are mounted in the prepared kitty. After completion of the edge of the rings, the bottom of the structure is covered with a drainage cushion from gravel and rubble.

In the case when the depth of the pit is at least 2 meters, and the bottom of the reservoir is concreted, such a structure can be used both to remove the effluent from the bath, and for the sewage system of a residential building.

Pits from auto stakes

Celded pits from exhaust auto strokes are designed to remove liquid drain, so well suited for the needs of the bath.

The arrangement of the drain system during installation of tires can be carried out in various ways, among which the lateral perforation of the walls, compliance with the technological gap between the installed skates, the cutting of the outer walls while maintaining the inner construction of the tires.

This is the easiest and most popular version of the organization of drainage under the bath, according to which the work can be performed by itself.

Step-by-step improvement of the drainage pit for a bath

Now consider the question that interests many, - how to make a drain pit for the bath with your own hands. The easiest option for newbies is a drainage pit from the barrel. As a tank for drain, a barrel made of metal up to 250 liters is used.

First you need to choose a suitable place under the pit. The distance from the foundation of the bath to the sewage unit should be from 3 to 7 meters. When determining the depth of the waste hole, it is important to take into account the total volume of effluent and groundwater. The optimal value is not more than 7 meters.

The process of arrangement of the PMs for the effluents provides phased performance.

Preparation of pit and gasket pipe

• Preparation of the construction site for the pit. From the base of the bath there should be dug ditch, which has a necessary bias for convenient drainage of wastewater. The average slope value is 4 degrees per meter running. The bottom insulate and fall asleep drainage from gravel and sand. The pillow is placed by a drainage pipe connecting the steam room and the waste hole.
• Next, digging the pit and also insulate. At the bottom, it is equipped with a pillow for drainage from gravel and rubble (thickness up to 25 cm).

Preparation of drain container

• The side surfaces of the barrel will be perforated with a grinder with a step of 18 cm in a checker order.
• In the bottom, a hole for mounting the nozzle is done, which will be connected to the drainage pipe mounting coupling. The connecting joke is treated with a sealant from the inner and outdoor side.
• The baroch is wrapped with geotextile material, which will ensure reliable drainage of stocks and prevents third-party items entering the container. Geotextiles fixed over the entire surface with the help of a twine or construction tape.

Installation of containers in the pit

• The barrel is installed on a drainage pillow so that the nozzle is located on top.
• All formed empties between the walls of the pit and barrels fall asleep with small gravel.
• The nozzle is connected to the sewer laid earlier.

Single Pipe Plate

Laying the drainage pipe is an important stage in the arrangement. According to the construction standards, the pipe is laid at the Stage Study of the foundation. It is located at the bottom of the base with a bias toward the drainage pit. When the pipe laying is required for the finished structure, the installation is carried out under the floor of the steam room.

To properly install the pipe, you need to follow the following rules:

1. No bends, turns and joints when installing the product are not allowed. This can lead to the appearance of blockages on any section of the pipe.
2. After the installation of the drainage is completed, a concrete screed of bath floors is performed in compliance with the slope toward the drain hole. After complete drying, the floor tie is lined with a tile or porcelain stoneware, on top of which wooden grilles are installed. They will provide protection against burns with direct contact with a preheated flooring. In addition, the lattices are easily dismantled for drying and processing with antiseptic compositions.
3. Drain is closed by a protective grille to prevent possible clogging of the sewer pipe.

Important! Bath floors do not require additional insulation. With high-quality concreting and facing, this base warms up in the process of the furnace and prevents the penetration of the cold outside.

How to make a drain pit for a bath - a question that will not find out the rupties of owners of such buildings. After all, it is easy to organize a reliable removal system for the removal of wastewater from the explosive materials and without attracting a construction team is easy, the main thing is to be a mood and a serious approach to business.

Experienced builders and country residents know well that the "extra" water on the plot is bad. Excess water leads to the flooding of the foundation and the ground floor, washing the base, flooding the beds, the root of the territory, etc. As a result, in the spring, autumn and even in the summer in the country, it is impossible to pass without rubber boots.

In this article, consider:

• How to equip water removal on the site.
• How do you make a budget storm sewer.
• Device drainage. How to make an inexpensive drainage and drain the wetland.

What water prevents the development of developer and country household

On the types of surface and groundwater, as well as the drainage and system of storm sewage can be written a separate book. Therefore, we leave a detailed listing of types and causes of groundwater, but concentrating in practice. But without minimal theoretical knowledge, it is taken for independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewage - throw money into the wind.

The fact is that even incorrectly made drainage system for the first few years. Then due to the colmattail (casing), the pipes wrapped in a geotextile, which was put in clay, loamy, etc. Soil, drainage stops working. And the money on the arrangement of drainage is already spent and, most importantly - the construction of drainage is associated with a large volume of earthworks with the involvement of technology.

Therefore, it is easy to dig and shift the drainage pipe in 3-5 years after its bookmark - it is difficult and consolidated. The plot already lies, the landscape design is made, the scene is equipped, a gazebo, a bath, etc.

We'll have to break your head like removing drainage so as not to turn the entire area.

From here - the construction of drainage should always be based on the data of the geological study of the soil (Which will help to find a waterproof layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge, which water leads to the flooding of the house or the root of the site.

Surface water is seasonal, associated with the snowmast period and the rain. Underground waters are divided into three main groups:

• Capillary water.
• Groundwater.
• Ripper.

Moreover, surface water, if it does not take it on time, with infiltration (absorbing) into the ground turns into underground water.

The volume of surface waters usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Output: surface drain should be removed by storm (rain) sewer, And do not try to make a superficial drainage!

Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or dwiners, breakaged in the ground, taking water from the drain from the site + competent organization of the relief in the household territory. This will help to avoid stagnant areas on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further fear.

Basic errors that are allowed during self-contained drainage device:

• Failure to comply with the right slope of laid drainage pipes. If you take averaged, the slope is withstanding from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 p. Drainage pipe.

• Use the drainage pipe in a geotextile winding on the "wrong" soil. The tube in geotextile to avoid its casing is used on soils consisting of pure medium and coarse-grained sands.

• Use instead of the cheaper limestone crushed stone instead, which over time is blurred by water.
• Savings on high-quality geotextile, which should have certain hydraulic properties affecting the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 μR, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as transverse CF, which should be at least 300 m / soute (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive storm sewage by their hands

The first thing that comes to mind is to equip the budget version of the storm sewage in the site - to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". It forces users of our portal to seek cheaper options for arranging storm sewage and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member Forumhouse

I need to make an inexpensive livneemka, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, for the removal of melt waters that come from a neighbor. Water must be left into the ditch. Thought how to make a water removal. At first, it was necessary to buy and install special trays, but then they will remain "extra" lattices, and a special aesthetics for livnevka is not required. I decided to buy asbetic pipes and cut them with a grinder along, thereby receiving homemade tray.

Despite the budget of this idea, the presence of the need to sing asbotic tubes of the user did not attract. The second option is the ability to buy drain gutter (plastic or metal) and put them on a prepared base in a layer of concrete about 100 mm.

Portal users dissolved Denis1235 From this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooking for the idea of \u200b\u200ban inexpensive strawberry, but not wanting to bind to independent sawing pipes, Denis1235found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they are immediately cut into pieces of 2 m long (so that when transporting it is not cracked the 4-meter) and bring ready-made trays to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme of laying trays.

The following "Pie" turned out:

• Ground base in the form of a bed.
• Sand layer or PGS with a thickness of about 5 cm.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When the device is such a strain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) to the joints and leave the deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget livnee at the cottage. It was gone: 2 days for a king of the trench, two more days on concreting and installation of the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on the trays.

Practice has shown that the track perfectly "overwhelmed" did not cracked and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the plot dry. Also interesting is an option for rain (storm) sewage user portal with nickname yury_BY..

yury_BY Member Forumhouse.

Because The crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer for rainwater in the house. I want to solve the problem, and save, and do everything qualitatively.

Thinking, the user decided to make a shower for removing water on the basis of flexible double-wall corrugated pipes (they are cheaper 2 times than "red" sewer), which are used for laying power cables under the ground. But, because The depth of the occurrence of the drainage route is planned only in 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yury_BY.it was afraid that the gofrotruube when water enters the water between two layers can break in winter.

Eventually yury_BY. I decided to take the budget "gray" pipe that is used in the arrangement of internal sewage. Although he had concerns that pipes that do not possess such rigidity as "redheads" breaks in the ground, the practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yury_BY.

If she turns into an oval on the "gray" pipe, but in the place where I buried it, there are no significant loads. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Setting the pipe into the trench and sprinkled with her soil, I was convinced that they hold the form, and the livnevka was working.

So I liked the option to install an inexpensive straw on the basis of "gray" sewer pipes that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process clearly demonstrate the following photos.

Copy pit under the collection of water.

Align the base level.

Install the concrete ring.

The next stage - we fall asleep at the bottom of the fusion of the gravel fraction 5-20.

Mixed from concrete homemade well lid.

Mobile hatch lid.

We make the insert in the well of the drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, withsting the slope of the track in 1 cm for 1 mongor meter.

Sing the pipe with a mixture of sand with water so that there are no emptiness between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

So that the pipe does not fall, it can be pressed by brick or board.

We put the lid, mount the hatch and fall asleep everything with soil.

On this, the manufacture of budget livnev is completed.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of a wetland

Not everyone gets "Right" sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the Earth can be very wetrated, or the developer of a peatman. Build on such an earth a normal house under permanent residence, and not a light summer cottage - and difficult, and expensive. There are two exits from this situation - sell / exchange a plot or deal with drainage and bringing the site by order.

In order not to deal with various expensive alterations in the future, the users of our portal offer budget variants of drainage and drainage of the territory on the basis of automotive tires. This option saves a family budget.

Yuri Madigama Member Forumhouse

Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. In my area, water is almost in the surface, and after the rain does not go to the ground. To remove the upper water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on the purchase of special pipes for drainage, and made drainage from automotive tires.

The system is mounted as follows - the channel is rotated, the auto strokes are stacked, the tires are covered with polyethylene, so that the earth does not fall inside. Polyethylene can also additionally press "unnecessary" in the household slicer slices. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water falls into the "Tirep" pipeline and then retire beyond the site.

But there are more "heavy" places where much more is to do.

Seryoga567 Member Forumhouse

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of \u200b\u200b8 acres. The site has a building that I plan to complete and expand. Place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT, they are in a deplorable state, where buried, litter or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The cov is so high that water from the well can be drawn a bucket, holding it for the handle. In the spring, the water in the country is standing for a long time, the site is actually turning into a swamp and, if she enhances, then only in the summer in the world. Nobody wants to bring drainage drangies in order, so everything is swimming. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight my neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to give all the "unnecessary" water from the plot.