Stairs for outdoor baths. Choosing a ladder for a bath: recommendations from experts. Outdoor staircase design

The stairs in the bathhouse to the second floor should be special. Already the two-story bath itself is something special. This is a place of rest for avid bath lovers and their friends. Therefore, the project must be approached with all responsibility.

Bath stairs

The stairs in the bath to the second floor can be made of different materials. It is necessary to think over its design, calculate the optimal angle of inclination of the steps and their height, take into account operating conditions and much more. All this is often beyond the power of the builder, it is necessary to involve specialists, and we offer you our solution.

We are ready to take on the responsibility for the design, manufacture and installation of stairs to the bathhouse from the street, to the second floor, from the attic and much more. Immediately after placing an order, our specialists will get to work, and soon you will have a new staircase.

What is the feature?

The staircase in the bathhouse to the 2nd floor is a special design. It's all about the features of the building itself.

During use, the temperature rises in the bath, which negatively affects the characteristics of any material.
The bath is humid. As a result, the metal can become rusty, and the wood can become soaked (without proper treatment).
When you do not use the sauna (especially in winter), the temperature in the room drops. Constant drops reduce strength and wear out the material.
Most likely, you will walk on a wet surface, so the stairs should be equipped with a non-slip coating. Otherwise, the risk of injury is quite high.

Among other things, the ladder should have optimal dimensions, not take up too much space. Steps should have a comfortable height and slope. The design of the structure is also important (imagine how the spiral staircase in the bath will look). We are ready to do all the necessary calculations.

We have only the best specialists in our state. Specialized stair design software is used, so the chance of error is extremely low. Installation is carried out by professional builders with extensive experience. All these qualities allow us to constantly increase the list of satisfied customers.

Order stairs to the bath

To order a staircase in the bath to the attic or to the second floor, please contact our specialists by phone or leave a request. Look at examples of our work and make the right decision!

The attic room of the bath is often used as a utility room for storing brooms or a rest room. To access the second floor, a compact wooden staircase is usually constructed. You can build it on bowstrings or stringers with your own hands.

Content:

To climb to the second floor or attic in the bath, they install a production (collapsible) staircase or build a structure with their own hands. In the latter case, it is necessary not only to build it correctly, but also to correctly calculate the angle of inclination, dimensions, type of steps. The ladder for the bath should be compact, comfortable and safe. Calculate its location so that the exit to the second floor is near the wall. So you can significantly save space and expand the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe dressing room.

Types of wooden stairs for a bath

Often, to enter a room or on a porch, a small structure is built on several steps. It is optimal to build it according to the calculations recommended by GOST:

tilt angle - less than 45 degrees;
step length - 80-100 cm;
lifting step - from 17 cm;
width - from 30 cm.

For the construction of the entrance stairs to the bath, pine or larch is considered the best option. At the same time, they must be treated with antifungal impregnation. Such structures are installed on a columnar or pile foundation.

The staircase in the bathhouse to the second floor can be made in various modifications:

Direct single-march. The simplest option, however, requires a large installation space.
U-shaped. For its construction, it is necessary to design mines in advance in the room.
L-shaped. They can be designed along one or two walls.
screw. Designed at an angle from 270 to 360 degrees. It must be installed counterclockwise, since most people start lifting with their right foot.
Samba or goose step. Compact, but rather inconvenient.

Before you start building a bath with your own hands, you need to decide on the materials of manufacture. For bath structures most often used:

stainless steel. The metal ladder is not deformed and does not corrode. At the same time, it is easy to install and economical.
Granite or artificial stone based on concrete. Model for Turkish baths.
Wood. Traditional material for Russian baths.

We will focus on the construction of a wooden staircase.

IMPORTANT: wooden components for stairs must be moisture resistant. They must be treated with impregnation to protect against fungus, decay and insects.

For a sauna staircase made of wood, it is best suited: teak (about 500 rubles per step), larch (from 12 thousand rubles per cubic meter), ash (from 30 thousand rubles per cubic meter), wenge (about 100 thousand rubles per cubic meter), pine ( from 100 rubles per linear meter), oak (from 18 thousand per cubic meter), spruce (from 6.5 thousand rubles). Wood for stairs is used with a thickness of 4-5 cm. It must be carefully polished. It should not be slippery, but also without roughness.

Then we make approximate calculations. Here are a few key points to keep in mind:

It is undesirable to do more than three or four winder steps.
The width of the steps must be designed according to the length of the foot.
The size of the opening must be calculated so as not to hit your head during the descent.

Instructions for the construction of stairs on stringers for a bath

Stair structures are built on stringers and bowstrings. In the first case, each step is placed on a ledge of a sawtooth profile. This method requires certain carpentry and carpentry skills. Work is performed in the following sequence:

We choose hard and dense wood for the manufacture of stringers.
We cut out a step shape template from thick cardboard with the appropriate size and slope.
To connect the stringers with the top floor and the base, we make special grooves and markings according to the prepared template at the ends.
By marking, we cut out the protrusions with a jigsaw and process them with a grinding machine.
We cut out a recess for fasteners in the floor beam and mount metal supports.
We fix the support beam with anchors along the line of the bottom step.
We install the stringers at the desired angle. We fix them from below and from above with anchors.
For steps we use boards from 3.6 cm thick, for risers - from 2 cm.
We cut and grind each workpiece.
We lubricate the lower cutout of the stringer with wood glue or PVA to prevent squeaking. Exactly along the edges we apply the elements of the risers.
We fix the parts with self-tapping screws and install steps above them.
After laying all the steps, we mount the railing. For the manufacture of racks, you can use figured wooden blanks. We mount the railing handrails along a clearly corresponding slope of the stairs.

The erection of stairs on bowstrings in the bath

Mounting steps on bowstrings is much easier. It is possible to independently build such a modification, adhering to the following plan:

We make measurements of the height from the floor of the room to the top of the future stairs. We round the number and divide it by 18, we get the desired number of risers.
We fix the brass ladder gauges on the joiner's square in pre-calculated places.
We check the material of the bowstring so that it is straight, and put a square on it evenly. We draw a riser line and, without moving the tool, draw a step line.
Using the calibrators and lines, draw the outline of the bowstring until all the steps are drawn.
We remove the calibrators from the square when drawing the last element.
Using a circular saw, make cuts along the edges.
We cut out the middle with a sharp hand saw, apply the resulting part to the material and draw a contour.
We make two edge and one middle bowstring.
We adjust the height of the lower riser so that it is shorter by one step thickness.
We attach a plywood sheet where the landing connects to the steps.
We make marks for installing the bowstring and fasten it to the plywood.
We cut out the same risers and fasten them with screws to the bowstrings.
We attach the steps with screws and glue to prevent creaking and increase strength.
For a general connection, we attach the upper step with screws to the plywood part.
We mount the railing post in a vertical position and attach it with screws.
We install the railings so that they repeat the angle of inclination of the stairs, and fasten them sequentially with screws.
We assemble the handrails (railings) with nails and fasten fasteners to the stair structure.
We attach the railing above the last crossbar, observing the correct slope.
We prime and varnish the surface.

Do-it-yourself spiral staircase for a bath

The technology for constructing a spiral staircase is distinguished by more in-depth calculations. To correctly build such a structure, you should do it according to the following scheme:

We make winder steps without risers. This will provide additional convenience when lifting.
We design the step so that in the center its width is from 20 cm, and 15 cm from the racks is not less than 10 cm.
We calculate the diameter of the structure from two meters, and the length of the steps - from 80 cm.
We leave the height of the passage to the upper turn from 2 m.
We use a thick-walled pipe made of stainless metal with a diameter of 5 cm or more as a supporting element. We install it strictly vertically at the very beginning of work. This will increase the strength of the stairs.
We fasten the main support to the wooden floor with fasteners and anchors. If the floor is cement, then we concrete it using extensions.
We drill a hole (with the diameter of the rack) in the narrow part of the tread to fix the step. For the installation of each element, we use bushings with the appropriate height.
To prevent deformation of the step, we place a washer between the tread and the bushing. Its thickness is important to consider when designing the height of the sleeve. Otherwise, the staircase will turn out to be much higher than it was designed.
We determine the length of the steps in accordance with the size of the rise in the ceiling. To calculate their number, the height of the entire structure is divided by the height of the opening between them. It should be from 18 to 20 cm, excluding the thickness of the step.
We install steps with a slight overlap. We fix the structure with brackets between the edges of the wide part.
We mount the final step on the floor with fasteners.
We install the railing posts vertically to the steps and attach the handrails to them at the angle of the base of the stairs.
We carry out decorative finishing.

With the help of this step-by-step instruction and a photo of the bath stairs, you can perform all the work quickly and efficiently, the process is shown in more detail in the video:

The ladder in the bath is a compromise between convenience, safety and compactness. Remember that before you make a ladder in the bath, you need to draw up a thorough project. A high-quality staircase should not only be reliable, but also fit well into the interior of the room. If you are not sure that you can make your own design that meets all standards, you can pick up a ready-to-install option in the store.

Since ancient times, the bath had a limited set of tasks: a person came, steamed, washed himself and went home. To date, the baths are rebuilt in two floors, and the upper level is made residential, but how the construction work is carried out and the further operation of such buildings will be discussed in this article.

Individual features of two-story baths

Modern construction trends are such that a bathhouse with a second floor is represented by a washing room and a steam room on the first floor, and a kitchen block and a living room are located on the second.

This placement has a number of advantages:

the bath can be used not only for the sake of taking procedures that are beneficial to health, but also as a temporary residential facility. Such a combination becomes especially expedient in the conditions of a summer cottage, where it is not possible to make two buildings separately due to a lack of free space;
the construction of one two-story building is more economical and takes less time than the construction of several separate buildings;
It is possible to build such a building both for seasonal living and for year-round use. A sauna with a garage can also be built, which is very practical.

Considering typical projects of a bath with a second floor, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

linear dimensions of the building;
type of foundation;
availability and characteristics of the heating system;
characteristics of the water supply system and sewage disposal;
type of installed stairs;
purpose of the second floor;
the presence in the construction of a swimming pool or bathing room.

Let's consider each of these parameters in more detail. It should be understood what the design of the two floors of the bath should be in order to get a comfortable, reliable and safe building during construction. It is necessary to think over in advance the plan of the bath and adjacent buildings.

Optimal linear dimensions of the building

First of all, when determining the size of the future bath, it is necessary to take into account the estimated number of people who are inside at the same time. For example, if a washing room is needed for a family of 3-4 people, and it will be used only at the end of a couple of weekends, then there is no need to make a huge room at all. And vice versa, if a bathhouse with a residential second floor will be used all year round, as a full-fledged country-type house, then its dimensions should correspond to a modern cottage. In our country, a sauna in a wooden house is a very popular phenomenon.

In such a building, it is worth adhering to the following rules of internal planning:

on the ground floor there is a steam room with a shower room (bath, pool or other washing room), but they can be supplemented with a separate relaxation room, technical rooms or even a small fitness room. A corner bath can be designed, which is also very convenient;
the distribution of rooms on the second floor remains with the owner, but, of course, there should be a bedroom, a kitchen block, possibly a separate dining room and a common living room. But here the owner of the future bath is not limited and, if desired, a balcony or terrace from the street side can even be completed.

Rules for creating a foundation

Choosing the right foundation for a two-story building is very important, since the total weight of the entire structure will be very large, which means that the foundation must be more massive and immersed in the ground than in the case of one-story buildings.

Experts do not recommend paying attention to the columnar foundation, even in cases where a minimum load will be created on it (when building from a foam block or profiled timber). Such a foundation cannot withstand a more significant load, and therefore it is better to take care of safety and pour a concrete monolithic reinforced strip foundation, laying it to a depth below the soil freezing level.

Features of the heating system

If you can heat a one-story bath with a standard stove-heater, then for a two-story building this becomes impossible. It is necessary to create an individual design that will heat the upper level of the building.

It is best, of course, to use gas heating, if there is access to a centralized gas supply. In this case, you can use a gas boiler with the ability to connect two heating system circuits to distribute heated water through pipelines and heating radiators. However, do not forget about bathing traditions by placing a stove-heater in the steam room and bringing its firebox into the dressing room.

Since the article earlier dealt with the construction of a two-story bathhouse on a suburban area, then, most likely, there will simply be no opportunity to supply gas. In this case, you can use a solid fuel boiler in one of its many modifications.

Water supply and sewerage equipment

A two-story building on a suburban area can be provided with water:

by connecting to the central water supply system;
from a drilled well or dug well, from which a pump will pump water into the building.

If precipitation often falls in the region and various spontaneous weather manifestations occur, then it would be reasonable to place a well or a well in a closed structure. It is even possible to create them inside the building at the ground floor level, but then a separate area will have to be allocated for this room.

To divert sewage, it is most reasonable to use a septic tank. Its advantage is that wastewater is treated and can be further used for agricultural purposes.

Types of stairs

In a two-story building, of course, one cannot do without a convenient staircase, which will allow you to quickly and freely move around the floors.

There are two options:

external staircase suitable only for seasonal use of the bath, since moving around it can become difficult and unsafe when wet, iced, etc .;
internal staircase is the best option for year-round operation of the building, as it is located indoors and is not exposed to adverse weather conditions.

Purchase of building materials

It is worth saying that a two-story bath with a balcony or terrace can be built with your own hands. However, this becomes possible only after the right choice of building materials. One of the most popular materials are foam and cinder blocks.

These materials have significant advantages:

their light weight provides a minimum load on the foundation;
blocks can be easily processed: sawed, cut, stabbed or drilled;
the cost of the material is low, and therefore the cost of the entire building is also reduced;
blocks are an environmentally friendly material, and therefore completely safe for humans;
the speed of construction work is high, since individual blocks have precise linear dimensions that simplify their installation.

It can also be used as a building material profiled timber or logs. To date, a bath from a bar with a second floor is really an elite building, but carrying out construction work with lumber is much more difficult and requires special skills from the worker.

The only drawback (condition) in the operation of wood is its immunity to high humidity. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out competent processing of the material and monitor the operating conditions in order to avoid deformations in the first months of the operation of a wooden two-story bath.

Wood also has its positive qualities:

ecological purity of natural material;
light weight;
reduced thermal conductivity;
ease of processing;
reliability and long service life with proper processing with various compounds that protect against natural and other negative factors.

Outcome

Thus, a two-story bathhouse made of timber or foam block will be an ideal option for organizing living and leisure activities in a suburban area. If such a site is planned to be visited more than 1-2 times a month (exclusively for recreation), then you need to take care of the construction of a full-fledged two-story building with all life support systems: heating, water supply, sewerage, etc.

If desired, you can entrust the construction work to specialists who will take responsibility for all stages - from the purchase of building materials to installation and putting the bath into operation.

Bath is a place of rest, loved by many. The construction of such a structure has become very popular both in private homes and for organizing a small but very profitable business.

As a rule, the building is made small, one-story, without additional rooms. However, those who want to be able to not only take a steam bath in the bathhouse, but also sit during breaks with friends or, if necessary, stay overnight, equip it with rest rooms, special rooms for storing the necessary attributes, etc. In such cases, more often in total, the area for construction is very limited and it is necessary to build a building with several floors (more than two is extremely rare). Then, among other things, the building requires the design and installation of stairs.

Bath staircase design process

In the case of stairs for a bath, just like any other, it will be important to determine the appropriate type of construction. Not any of them will be able to satisfy both the needs for use and comply with safety regulations in such a room.

The main stages in the selection of stairs for a bath:

Decide on an appointment. The design can be used to access the second floor or to reach the shelves in the steam room. In the second case, everything is simple - you can limit yourself to a small ladder, the main thing is that it is not slippery and not too rough, which will not allow you to fall or get hurt.
In the case of stairs to access the second floor, it is very important to understand the purpose and frequency of use. If it is used simply as an attic space, then the design will be quite simple and without particularly strict requirements.
Select the material for the stairs.

In these three stages, the answer to the question of which ladder is better to use in the bath lies.

Requirements for stairs to the second floor of the bath

For access to the attic, which will be used as a recreation room, more stringent requirements are set for the stairs than for a simple attic. In this case, the design must ensure safe ascent and descent. Consider that often guests do not mind relaxing in a bathhouse with alcohol, and this does not quite go well with dangerous stairs. The optimal solution would be a classic mid-flight staircase, made in compliance with all norms and requirements. Despite the convenience, there is not always a place for it in the space of the house, not to mention the bath, where there is much less space.

Often, in the case of this room, the most organic and reasonable would be to put a “duck step” staircase, as in the photo. It refers to the marching type of structures, with increased steepness. However, due to the unique design, the angle of more than 45 ° is not so noticeable, since the location of the steps allows you to stand on them with a full foot and maintain balance. It will take up much less space than the classic one.

In terms of saving space, spiral staircases are also often in demand. However, in this case, security is compromised, and it is better to consider other options before installing.

If it is planned to rarely go up to the second floor, and its use ends with the storage of unnecessary things, then you can completely get by with attic types of stairs, for example, retractable or folding ones. For the purposes described, such a ladder will suffice.

Material selection

After all issues with the room and the type of suitable stairs have been resolved, you should pay attention to what it is best to make it from. In the case of baths, additional requirements are put forward for the material from which the structure is made:

Modern country or country houses are rarely built one-story, mostly two-story, three-story or one-story buildings with an attic floor. In this case, there is always a need to somehow make high-quality movement between floors possible. A good solution would be to manufacture wooden stairs that could provide a comfortable entry and carry of heavy furniture or equipment. Let's just say that this is not an easy task. And if it is possible to order at least a project or even finished staircase elements from the manufacturer, then it is better to do so. Well, if you are confident in your abilities, have carpentry skills and free time, you can try to make a staircase yourself. Within the framework of this article, we will briefly talk about what kind of design stairs are, how to perform the calculation and how to make a staircase.

Elements of wooden stairs
Calculation of a wooden staircase
- Ladder length
- Stringer length

Construction of a wooden staircase

It is necessary to choose the design of the stairs based on the space that can be used, the convenience of location, configuration and lifting, as well as for aesthetic reasons.

Conditionally everything wooden stairs can be divided into screw and marching.

Spiral stairs are used quite rarely. Mostly in extremely tight spaces. The second reason may be the desire of the owner - for aesthetic reasons. It is worth noting that the spiral staircases are not very functional. For example, it is extremely difficult to bring heavy furniture along it. In other words, it can serve only for the descent - the ascent of one person. For its manufacture, complex calculations will be required, since it will rely on one pillar - a support. The slightest mistake in the calculation of strength can lead to sad consequences.

Marching stairs- the most common. They consist of their marches, they are also called "flight of stairs", i.e. directly the steps and platforms that separate the marches. Marches can be either one or several. And there may be no platforms at all if the stairs are single-flight.

Marching stairs can have a different design, you can see them in detail in the diagram below.

There are straight marching stairs. At the same time, they can be single-march and two-march, separated by a platform for ease of movement. Such stairs can be located against the wall or not lean against the wall at all. A characteristic feature of straight stairs is that they take up a lot of space.

Most often, to save space and ease of use between floors inside the house, two-flight turning stairs are made. The rotation can be right angle (90°) or any other angle up to 180°.

The march can have a curved design with a convenient angle for entering the stairs. In this case, all steps can also be rotary.

Also, two-flight and three-flight stairs may not have platforms, but only turning steps.

In order to choose the right staircase design for a particular situation, it is necessary to measure the free space that can be used under the stairs, make small calculations and draw a drawing. The drawing should show how the staircase is located, whether its elements interfere and how comfortable it will be.

Elements of wooden stairs

The above photo shows the elements that make up the stairs, and their names are indicated.

Kosour is a load-bearing beam that supports steps and risers from below. It bears all the loads.

bowstring also performs a support-bearing function. At the same time, there are recesses in it, into which the steps are inserted with the butt. This design is used on the one hand, if the staircase is adjacent to the wall, and on both sides, if the march is sandwiched between two walls. The bowstring is less preferable than the kosour due to the fact that it is not able to withstand heavy loads. Therefore, even if the stairs adjoin the wall, they still try to complete it on the stringers.

steps for stairs - wooden beams, consist of a tread (horizontal) and a riser (vertical). We step on the surface of the tread with our feet. And the riser is a vertical beam under the step, which encloses the tread space and performs a supporting function. It is possible to make stairs without a riser, in which case the step space will be free, the leg will not rest, but the structure will be less durable and reliable.

Steps can be rectangular, radius for a beautiful entry to the stairs, turning at a certain angle to replace the dividing platform and running - the first step of a non-standard shape.

railing for stairs - wooden balusters and handrails. Their shape and size may vary. Basically, railings are made to order, in the form that the customer wishes.

If the staircase is more than one-flight, its design includes support post or pillars at the turning points of the stairs.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of stairs, it is imperative to make calculations and complete a drawing. Wooden drawings for stairs are made both independently and with the help of special architectural programs. In the latter, you can also perform calculations. A good solution would be to contact companies specializing in wooden stairs. So you can be sure of the quality and accuracy of the calculations.

Calculation of a wooden staircase

Number of steps and riser height

To determine the height of the stairs, we measure the distance from the base of the finished floor of the first floor to the finished floor of the second floor. If the finishing floor is not yet equipped, then its dimensions must be laid on the basis of "by eye". Because the wooden staircase becomes only on the final floor. In this case, we will assume that the height from floor to ceiling is 250 cm, the thickness of the interfloor overlap with the floor is 35 cm. Total 285 cm.

We make a calculation, starting from the height of the riser. The fact is that most often this size is standard and ranges from 15.2 to 19.7 cm. It is believed that this height is the most optimal for ease of use. Smaller - will knock down the step. Large - too heavy to climb and difficult to descend. From this interval we take the average value (you can take any) - 17 cm.

Number of steps = ladder height / riser height;

Since the number of steps cannot be uneven, we round up - 17 pieces.

In doing so, we have two options. We can make the first winder step small, and the rest with a riser of 17 cm. Or we can recalculate and get a more accurate, but uneven result.

To do this, we divide the height of the stairs by the number of steps: 285/17 \u003d 16.76 cm.

So we can complete 17 identical steps with riser height 16.7 cm.

It is believed that the minimum tread width for convenience should be 22 cm, and the maximum 37 - 40 cm. If less, it will be difficult to descend, if more, the step will go astray.

For a more accurate calculation, there is a dependence:

2a + b = 64 cm;
a + b = 47 cm;

a is the height of the riser;

b is the width of the tread.

Let's try the second formula: 47 cm - 16.7 cm = 30.3 cm. This width is quite acceptable, we can round it up to 30 cm.

For the sake of interest, we calculate according to the second formula: 2a + 16.7 = 64; a = 23.65 cm. This width is too small, so we will use the data obtained from the previous formula.

The width of the march of the wooden stairs

In principle, the width of the march is not strictly regulated in any way, but the number of marches will depend on the place that can be used for the stairs.

It is believed that the minimum comfortable width of the march is 80 cm. If the stairs are narrower, there will be difficulties with the passage of full people or with the passage of furniture. Options from 100 to 140 cm will be successful.

In order for the whole structure of the stairs to look organic, you can use the following hint: the width of the march should be a multiple of the width of the tread. In our case, these are 60 cm, 90 cm, 120 cm and 160 cm.

Ladder length

To calculate the length of the stairs, we need only two values that we have already calculated, this is the width of the tread and the number of steps.

Stair length = tread width * number of steps(without the last one - this will be the floor of the second floor);

30 * 16 = 480 cm.

4 meters and 80 cm- a rather large length, which "eats" a lot of space.

Therefore, if it is not possible to equip such a staircase in one flight and straight, you will have to change the design and make it two-flight with a turn of 180 °. In this case, you can make a dividing platform, or you can make turning steps. It is most convenient to make such calculations in special programs, where the location of the elements of the stairs will also be clearly visible.

Clearance height above steps

An important parameter. The beginning of the flight of stairs almost always falls under the ceiling, thus reducing the free space above the head of the person walking up the stairs.

Even at the stage of creating a drawing, it is necessary to calculate the height from the highest step, located under the ceiling, to the ceiling. The minimum allowable value that can provide comfortable access to the stairs even for the tallest people is 195 - 200 cm.

Stringer length

Calculated using the Pythagorean theorem.

Ladder length2 + ladder height2 = kosour length2;

4802+2852= stringer length2;

230400 + 81225 = stringer length2;

Stringer length = 558,23 cm. We take with a margin of 560 or 580 cm.

How to make a wooden staircase

The simplest solution would be to order a project and ready-made staircase elements from the company, with all the necessary cutouts. All elements will be numbered. After the unassembled stairs are delivered to the construction site, wooden stairs are assembled according to the attached drawing and diagram. So you do not have to buy a special tool for trimming and dusting around the house.

We buy material for a wooden staircase

If you decide to perform an independent installation of wooden stairs, start with the purchase of building materials.

For bowstrings or stringers, a beam of 50 * 250 mm is required. Its minimum width can be 150 mm, if the design of the stairs allows.

For risers, we purchase beams with a minimum thickness of 25 mm, you can take thicker ones.

For beam treads, it is better to take from 30 to 40 mm. And you can the same as for the risers.

We order handrails and balusters from the manufacturer or buy ready-made ones, since in order to make them yourself and beautifully, you need to have considerable experience, knowledge and skills.

Install stringers or bowstrings

We cut the beam, which we bought for the stringers, from above and below so that we get the required length of the stairs. Then from below we cut off another thickness of one tread, i.e. 5 cm

Important! The fact is that when we did the calculation of the number of treads, we did not take into account the thickness of the steps. It is really not important for the whole structure, except for the first step - its height does not increase by the thickness of the tread.

We cut off the excess. It is better to use a jigsaw or a saw. But for lack of it, you can use a hand saw.

Then we attach the kosour to the place where the ladder will stand. Its upper edge should rest against the ceiling, and the lower one should rest firmly against the floor of the first floor. We check the horizontalness of the cuts for the steps.

Important! We need two such stringers, but depending on the loads that the staircase must withstand, there may be more stringers. In this case, we cut out all the others, using the first one as a template.

Thoroughly sand all surfaces. If necessary, we mill the outer edges, making roundings (for beauty).

At the bottom and at the top of the stringers must be connected to each other by a beam. To do this, cut them a quarter from the bottom and top. We fix to a thick beam with anchor bolts. If it is possible to fix the stringers to the walls, then we also use anchors.

If we use one bowstring, then it must be cut to the required length. Then cut out holes inside with a cutter - recesses for steps. The bowstring is fixed to the wall with anchors.

Important! We check the correct location of the bowstring and the kosour on the other hand, they should be located on the same level so that the steps do not have a slope.

Install steps and risers

After the stringers are tightly fixed, we begin to put the risers.

To do this, we cut the beam into the required number of risers of a certain length. We level them relative to each other and sand them.

We fix it to the kosour with self-tapping screws on the front side. Then we putty them or hide them under decorative elements. You can also use special glue.

When all the risers are installed, proceed to the steps - treads.

To do this, we also saw the beam into the number of steps minus one. Then we skin their surface and mill the protruding outer edge with an angle.

Then we put them on top of the risers and fix them with self-tapping screws or screws.

Important! If we use the bowstring on one side, then we insert the step into the groove cut in the bowstring, having previously glued the edge of the step and the hole in the bowstring.

We install the balusters on the steps and fix them with studs 100 mm long and 8 mm thick.

From above we install and fix the railing with self-tapping screws.

At this point, the work is completed, only the painting of the wooden stairs remains. For better preservation of wood, while preserving its natural beauty, you can use special transparent varnish coatings.

In this article, we examined the manufacture of a single-flight straight wooden staircase with our own hands. If the project involves a staircase of a different design, then the installation will be different. For example, for a two-flight staircase, the platform and the supporting column are first installed and fixed, and then the stringers, risers and steps are already installed. Some steps in this case may not be straight, but rotary and rounded.