How to cut a vase from the tree with your own hands. Decorative vases for the interior - crafts made of sleep wood. Decoration of the usual transparent vase

The second important condition for the safe work of the small-year-old chisel is the requirement to always direct it down the slope, i.e., to a smaller diameter. The sharpening of this tool is usually performed at 30 °. This operation is very convenient to conduct

with the help of a special device that I did for sharpening deep-shaped chisels, slightly changing its setting. The chamfer is perfectly smooth without faces. This device will be described later in another article, and now it should be clarified that instead of the small-minded chisel to form a vase profile, it is possible to apply a deep-shaped with a less-burnt character that I often do.

In the photo 6, the finishing bag of the sharpened outer surface of the vase with the pills of the fine-tempered chisel, which is conducted under 45 ° to the surface of the part. The final alignment of the workpiece with the longitudinal arrangement of wood fibers can be performed with the help of a jammy chisel, as presented in photo 7. True, it is distinguished by a very angry character and even represents danger, since when a burrow can fly out of the hands and damage to the turner. At the same time, in the hands of an experienced specialist, such a tool is universal, allowing to pull almost everything, but only with the equity arrangement of wood fibers, i.e., with the cross-sharp turning, the co-ssychki chisel is absolutely not applicable. By the way, her blade is sharpening at 25 ° necessarily on the platform of the girlfriend.

Having completed the formation of the external profile of the vase and aligning it with the surface, as well as applying small ornamental brownies and grooves of the fine-shaped chisel (photo #) I spend the wet grinding of the product with the sandpaper R220 grainy. For which dipping "skin" into a plate with water, and spraying the surface. This grinding is preliminary. And in the future, after drying, the product will require final finishing. Next, I cut off the thin cutting chisel the support protrusion on the Diax Vase (photo 9) and squeeze the bottom in the cartridge with the back of the product with the backstone (photo 10) for the dense fit of the front plane of the sponges to the bottom of the vase. The next step will be the drilling of a deep hole in the throat of the vase, but since it has a big length, then for reliability I decided to additionally fix the neck in Luntney (photo 11), the use of which has-practical practices for the sharpening VAZ.

Lunets for small lathes are not sold, they have to make themselves. My three-wheeled lunet (such devices are still two- and four-wheeled) made of plywood with a thickness of 40 mm. The diameter of the opening for the workpiece is 220 mm, and the wheels for roller skates with precision bearings provide relative silent operation. Only installed Lunet, as I needed to interrupt the job: I had to take a roll of the food film and wrap it with a vase (photo 12), otherwise the product from damp wood of an apple tree (extremely "trressing" of the breed) would definitely cracked during my absence. I, by this film, also wrapping semi-prepared bowls from weak, strongly fired wood to prevent them from spooling into pieces with a boring of the inner cavity. The vase conceived by me should have become universal, that is, suitable for both artificial and living flowers. In the latter case, water should be pouring into any suitable small vessel, for example, a glass tube with a length of 200 mm and a diameter of 20 mm, placed inside the vase (photo 13).

I did not find a suitable long drill (type of Spiral Levis or first with grooves for shavings removal) to do the hole in the throat of the vase. I had to plant a simple flat "pepper" with a width of 22 mm from a set of production of still Soviet times on a long (300 mm) steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm and clamp it in a powerful drilling cam patron with a cone Morse (photo 14). The very short base of my machine did not allow to insert the cartridge in the Pi-zero of the back of the grandmother, and the thickness of the rod created tool did not give the opportunity to fasten it in a 10-mm cartridge of the usual drill (9 mm). As a result, when drilling a deep hole in the neck of the rotating vase, it was necessary to hold the cartridge in his hand with great strengtheps, laying the rod to the girlfriend. Photo 15 and 16 show the initial and final stage of this process. By the way, for the convenience of further use, the test tube inserted into the throat of the vase should protrude from there by approximately 5 mm.

At the finishing stage of the Donette, i.e. eliminating the dents from the cam and alignment of the end, it was necessary to deploy an almost ready-made vase on the machine. Previously, I pulled out the supporting tablet with a deepening under the diameter of the neck (photo 17). Placed her back and behind the bottom of the Donette center, which inserted an additional homemade narrow nozzle. When later I pulled out other vases of approximately the same form, then simply carefully pushed the neck in the cartridge using small fists of type F, laying a strip of plastic with a thickness of more than 1 mm. A segment of a coaxial (antenna) cable will also be consolidated as a softening gasket.

In photo 18 shows the search for the center on the Donets when it for some reason was not scheduled or disappeared. The black felt-tip pen marks the beating, then it is necessary, tapping on the Xiankaya celebration, to shift the workpiece so that the desired center is in its place. After that, the formation of the Donets is carried out using a deep-shaped either small-minded chisel (photo 19)

Upon completion of the sharpening, the vase must be dried without cracking. In the air, the formation of cracks is almost inevitable, which is aggravated by a large thickness of the vase at the bottom (the thinner of the wall of the product, the higher the chance to avoid cracks, as well as some warns). I dry my products from raw wood with one of two ways: either I lay in a paper craft package, filled with wet chips of the same tree (photo 20), or filling the product itself, which then wrapping in two layers of the newspaper and put on the shelf in Saraj. The latter method is particularly convenient and effective for cups and plates with walls with a thickness of 4-8 mm, which without cracks and steaming dried in summer in summer.

Unfortunately, the formation of cracks in the lower thicker part of the vase from the apple tree could not be avoided even after a two-month drying in the kraft package, and the circumstances did not dry longer. It was necessary to close the cracks by gluing the thin plates of the same material chopped on the ribbon saw and then treated with a rhochop grinding machine with a carbide disk and the Black & Decker electron. Plots turned out to be almost invisible, but this additional work made me reconsider the method of sharpening VAZ in order to make their lower parts with hollow to reduce the probability of cracking.

I must say that from the very beginning I was bred by doubts about the legitimacy of a simplified approach, limited by the simple drilling of the narrow channel in the neck, which can be seen in a number of videos on the Internet. I used to reassuate the cavity in the lower part of the VAZ, but at the same time there were always various difficulties. True, I rarely did Vaza. In the summer, I made a series of vases close form, and it was necessary to solve the problem drastically. From the very beginning at both ends of the cylindrical billet, it is pulled out on the performance. Having formed the external profile of the lower part of the vase, it is necessary to immediately begin the boring of its cavity with the use of Lune, holding the workpiece in the cartridge behind the ledge on the place of the neck. With the help of deep or small-rough chisels, a hole with a diameter of about 50 mm is reset. Those who can further enter some of the curved chisels - a hinge, with a carbide nozzle or a cutter-nozzle (photo 21), and the residual wall thickness is constantly monitored by a kroncyrkul.

Upon completion of the process of the boring process, it is necessary to separately roll out of the same wood material plug of a suitable diameter and glue it into the opening of the protrusion (dona). Here it is necessary to estimate the depth of the protrusion of the cap inside the cavity so that the test tube, which in the future it will rely on it, went out on the aforementioned 5 mm. If the test tube fails in the neck, an additional fruit will arise with a piece of wood on the bottom of the vase through a narrow channel.

That part of the inclised plug, which protrudes outside, I cut off on a ribbon saw. Next, the Donace will be finally processed by the method described above.

If the vase has a different form with a significantly wider neck, then

the tag as a vessel with water is not suitable here. What to do? The decision came pretty quickly when I took a half-jammed birch suwel with a bright texture, harvested a couple of years ago in the forest, and pulled out a vase with a neck with a diameter of 35 mm from it. Further in its stocks, I found a two-meter plastic tube of a bright green color with a diameter of 32 mm and cut off from it on a ribbon saw a piece of about 160 mm long, deciding to turn it into the desired vessel. First, with the help of gas microgorelka, I was convinced that this plastic is not thermoplastic, i.e. it will not be able to cook from it. I had to turn to gluing, to start scolding from the source tube, another small piece and making an additional dual dolk on it. With the help of an industrial hair dryer, I gotten a segment to a soft condition. Deployed into the plane, put under the press, and after cooling the aligned piece of plastic plastic, the circle struck the circuit on it, which will play the role of the bottom in the vessel from the tube. Next I am quite right, albeit on the eye, led him

the size in accordance with the internal diameter of the tube (28 mm) using the Black & Decker electronage (photo 22). I drove the circle into a depth of approximately 3-5 mm and flooded outside the thick layer of a fairly universal waterproof superclone "Master" based on copolymers of vinyl acetate, which I have been kept for ten years (photo 23). The bright color of the vessel seemed to me with vulgar, and I painted it with brown quick-drying nitrocellulose enamel. The subsequent exposure with water for a month has shown the tightness of the made vessel, and the total aesthetic properties of an accurate vase with a lively branch of the golden river can be estimated in photo 24.

Finally, I would like to notice that the most diverse plastic water pipes are sold in stores, of which you can easily make any vessels for living colors and put inside the accurate wooden vases. In photo 25, a number of such products created by me were shown in summer from various wood breeds by the method described above.

Wooden vase with their own hands - Photo

Photo 1. Cross sawmill on goats. Photo 2. Sharpening of the rimproy chisel on the electric coil. Photo 3. Chernovaya processing of the workpiece by a rimpted chisel. Photo 4. Forming the protrusion at the end of the cylinder under the cartridge with the help of a cutting chisel. Photo 5. Formation of the outdoor profile of the vase with the help of a fine-tempered chisel. Photo 6. Cleaning the surface of the fine-skinned chisel's surface. Photo 7. Pure surface treatment with a jamb. Photo 8. Application of decorative colors and grooves of the fine-shaped chisel. Photo 9. Cutting the support protrusion by a thin cutting chisel.

Photo 10. Clamp of a vase form in a cartridge with a backstop of the backstone. Photo 11. Fixing the neck of the vase in homemade lunet. Photo 12. Sealing vase with food film. Photo 13. Glass test tube. Photo 14. Homemade pepper
Photo 15. Start drilling a deaf hole under a glass tube.

Photo 16. Cork in the holes of the vase. Photo 17. Cutting the supporting tablet with a hole under the throat of the vase. Photo 18. Reverse fixation of the vase and the center search on the Donets. Photo 19. DOAGEMINE OF THE INTERNALLOGE-OBLASHED ENTERNAL.

If you have a professional tool at hand, you can explore its capabilities infinitely. For example, the usual construction torch is often used as a basis for the manufacture of souvenirs and various decorative products. Beautifully made wooden candlestick on the lathe looks great in the classic interior of the house. A large vase made of wood can affect the imagination. Sometimes in the hands of an experienced master ordinary at first glance, chock turns into a real artistic masterpiece. How do they get it? What can still be sharpened independently?

The lathe on the tree allows not only building billets, but also various decorative products that are designed to please the eye and demonstrate the possibilities of the equipment. Any crafts from wood are very practical, they always have a place in the house, so you can safely experiment and try to do something with your own hands. The in the easiest thing is the sharpening vase from the tree, it can easily be jug, saltka and a storage box for all trivia. You can offer to make chess.

Vase

How can I make a vase on the lathe? It may take a specific tool for its manufacture. In addition to the lathe, it is necessary to take the cutters, plans, hacksaw, line, circulatory, ax and saws, grinding skins and a chisel.

The process of sharpening a vase is extremely simple. True, it should be noted that the vases are complex on configurations and simple. Consider how the simple version can be turned out.

First, the pillow is cut out a scrabble, 10-20 cm long.
It must be necessary to earn money on the plane, both from the ends and along the length.
A blank is installed in the cartridge of the machine.
The machine turns on and is checked for the subject of the part.
If it is present, it is necessary to hold alignment.
Removing the upper layer of wood to a depth of 1 cm.
The chamfer is removed at an angle of 45 ° C of the outer end.
A drill is inserted into the backstone.
The hole is drilled down the depth less than the length of the blank by 3-5 cm. That is, the bottom of the vase is determined.
Now with a cutting, which is called a kosyachok, cut the cavity of the product.

Since the vase can have a different form: direct, oval, and so on, then, accordingly, the boring of the upper surface is withstanding the exact shape. After that, the grinding of the product is outside and from the inside. For which the sandpaper is used. Wooden product is removed from the machine, the bottom is modified manually using a planer and stacks. After that, the souvenir is covered with varnish.

Chess

Chess - Figures are small, so their manufacture requires a certain experience and hardness of the Tokary's hand, as well as its eyelash. For the manufacture of the figure you will need a small scuba with a cross section of 50x50 or 60x60 mm. It on one side is formed under a smaller cross section, for example, 40x40 or 30x30 mm, as shown in the video.

With this smaller end, the workpiece is inserted and clamped into the cartridge. Now it is necessary to cut the free end of the blanks with a cutter and press it with the center of the backstone. Removed by a cutter layer of wood so that the billet becomes a round section. After that, you can start making the chess piece itself. You can use traditional forms, you can fantasize.

As soon as the figure is fully ready, it must be seated, and at the end cut off from the pressed part of the workpiece. It remains only manually to handle varnish or paint into black or white. By the way, the candlestick made of wood is made on the lathe just as well. Its length is larger, which means that there will be a longer billet.

Make a casket

The box is not the most complex element that can be sharpened on the lathe. But if it is a product with a lid, then the drawings will be required here. After all, the lid must enter the box and sit on the groove, that is, the lid should become in the edge of the product itself.

For the manufacture of the casket, a cylindrical billet will be required, which is installed in the lathe. The main thing is that the workpiece does not take to the bed.

First, the wood layer with a semicircular cutter is removed to give the billet rounded shapes.
Then the jam is needed to earn a surface, that is, make it smooth.
After that, it is necessary to form the inner cavity of the wooden product. This uses a narrow straight cutter. One pass is not to finish this operation, so it will have to hold it stepwise.
Using a triangular cutter, one can expand the inner cavity to the wall thickness.
The bottom of the box is aligned with a straight but wide cutter. They are also made grooves for the lid.
Grinding of internal and external planes is performed.
It is applied with top, wax from the inside.

The lid is made of the same material as the box itself. Just this requires a fine billet, which is fixed in the chipper of the woodworking lathe. First, the processing is carried out with a wide straight cutter, that is, the inner part is formed, it can be flat or concave inside. Be sure to grinding.

Then the outer part is formed, for which the workpiece will have to flip. That is, the semiginal part of the lid is cut off and is already installed in the cartridge almost the finished inside. Then the same cutter produces the formation of the outer side of the lid. It can also be flat or convex. At the end, grinding is carried out. After that, the finished product is covered with varnish.

In principle, the sequence of facing the parties can be changed if the holder handle is on the lid. To do this, you will have to take the workpiece to sharpen the handle. It can be round, oval or curly. You can make a handle, as a separately crazy element, and attach it to the casket cover with adhesive composition.

The diameter of the lid must correspond to the diameter of the inner groove of the box. That is, the cover must freely enter the groove.

These products can be done with their own hands on a tree lathe. The most difficult of the above decorative items is a box. Here it is necessary to accurately adhere to the sizes, it usually concerns the wall thickness. They made a little thinner, and a high probability will appear that it will burst with time. In addition, you will have to accurately stick to the diameters of the lid and the groove on the box itself. If one of the sizes does not match, then or the lid falls inside the casket, or it will be on the edge of the product.

Therefore, when pulled out on the lathe of homemade crafts from a tree, attention is required and accuracy (work is not rude). Of course, it is necessary to remove the sizes in the work in the work process.

Large floor decorative vases for the interior are a stylish decoration element. Agree, the handicraft from wooden circles looks spectacular?

We will create it with your own hands with the help of small spikes of the tree - round in cross section. We will not need entire trunks, only branches from about one to three centimeters in diameter, as well as the basis for which we will clipped small wooden parts.

Materials for a vase from wood do it yourself

As I mentioned, we need a weigh branch branches, quite a lot, depending on the size of the vase, or rather, more from its surface area.

You still need something that would serve as the basis of our craft. They can have anything, even a simple cans, as you see in the photo below, or a flower pot.

It would be better for the tin surface to be so visible, so it is possible to first reorganize it, for example, with a twine or sack paper. Despite the fact that this work is completed too rudely, the flowers in it look pretty cute.

If you have a vase with a defect, for example, with a crack, or broken - not trouble, it can be useful for us. Breated we first shake. Surfaces and cracks on it will still not be visible - we reorganize it with a tree.

The simplest thing is to find the finished reason for our interior vase, but in principle there is another way to make it yourself. It could be a papier-mache vase, you can utilize a lot of unnecessary newspapers. Then the product will be very easy and better will make it another form, more stable.

Or make it from clay, and insert an ordinary glass jar or a bottle insert, so that the vase can be used not only as a decorative object of the interior, as well as in direct purpose - to put flowers or twigs into it.

Spila is better to carefully clean it with the front side that will be visible for us. Zzabrin and special irregularities should not be, we do not want to scatter. To remove the bark or not - this is your personal business as who likes or what effect you want to achieve.

Still cook good glue, we will stick these small rounds.

Decorative Vase - Production

The tree can be treated with a verse or leave as it is, this is a matter of taste and personal preferences. It would be nice to consider where the decorative vase will be, in which interior. Under the light furniture, sleep is better to leave as it is, do not paint.

If the tones of the furniture are dark, then you can part of the wooden parts or everything is immediately processed to give them a darker shade.

The color is left natural, natural, well visible texture of a tree - circles. I almost forgotten - the sleeves should be all the same thickness so that in the end the vase has a flat surface.

Now proceed to work, actually creating your designer work - a decorative floor vase from the tree. We select in size and glue a speech so that the closed turned out to be as much part of the foundation.

Between big glue small pieces like a mosaic. You can start with anywhere, as you like more. But it is better, I think, start with the most flat (least convex) part.

When everything is glued, you need to give a product well to dry. From above, a decorative wooden surface, if desired, can be covered with varnish.

This is how the outdoor decorative vase looks like in the interior. It is made of natural natural material, gives the room warmth, creates a style. It will look good for various beautiful twigs collected in the forest, or stems of dry plants.

If inside is a tank of a type of can or a bottle that does not pass water, then our vase can undoubtedly be used for fresh bouquets.

According to a similar principle, vases are made by simpler forms in the photo below. Wooden kreagashi can first treat the veil to give color. Or leave as it is.

An interesting pattern on the texture is created by alternating circles of different diameters. Some bodies of the tree have their own unique pattern on the cut, it adds originality.

Products from natural natural materials, in particular wood, have gained extraordinary popularity recently. You can browse some ideas on sale, and then repeat yourself for the interior of your own home.

It may be not only vases, but also other small decor items, even whole walls, furniture.