Over time in every home, the apartment needs to be repaired. This is especially important with the advent of children in the family. To create a children's room in a studio apartment, it is not necessary to build a brick wall. , Created by your own hands, will distinguish the room, while improves the design. The frame of the partition under plasterboard is created from wooden bars or metal profiles.

Plasterboard Partition for Room Zoning

In both cases, an action plan should be carefully examined, familiar with the generally accepted rules.

To create a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame, you need to take into account some factors from which the duration of the structure of the structure will depend on, its functionality.

1. Wooden frame is installed only in a dry room.
2. The partition is put in the room without sudden temperature drops.
3. Wooden frame is installed in apartments, houses without obvious moves.
4. In a private house there is a high probability of lesion to the tree insects and rodents.

Creating a frame for partitions from GCL on a wooden frame

If all of the listed factors are excluded, the room has a partition with a frame from wooden bars.

Materials for wooden frame partition

To create a frame of wood, materials will be required. Before working, some materials should be prepared.

Mandatory condition for creating a partition, wood for a wooden frame should be dry

Wooden bars for partition frame

Which wood is needed for partition frame? For high-quality frame bases of the partition, the wood is ash, beech, pine, maple - I-II variety. Coniferous breeds contain a large amount of wood resin, which prevents rotting, they are less susceptible to insect and rodents.

The size of the material is selected based on the size of the partition. We will need a cross section of 60x80 mm. For greater stability to the framework of the frame (top, bottom), the bars 50x100 mm are purchased.

Wooden bars 60 * 80, 50 * 100

Before applying wooden bars for mounting, you need to spend some operations:

1. The entire tree used in the creation of the frame base should be dried. It can last up to 1 week.
2. After drying, the tree is processed by an antiseptic. There are many solutions for wood processing on the construction market. The pricing policy depends on the manufacturer's company.

Antiseptic Tool Treatment

For confidence in the processing is used by Olife. It dries for a long time, but it is 100% processed material. For processing, Olif should be heated in a water bath. In a warm form, the remedy penetrates the tree deeper. The ends of the bars should be very carefully treated with Olife. In some cases, the timber should simply be lowered by the end to the container with the antiseptic.

Cooked Olife on Water Ban

When drying 20% \u200b\u200bof the tree changes its appearance, which should be considered when purchasing.

Other materials

Instruments

To create a frame of wooden bars for a plasterboard partition, you will need a set of tools:

1. Pencil or chalk.
2. Meter, plumbing, level.
3. Perforator.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Saw or hacksaw.
6. Roller
7. Set of spatulas with different blades size.

Set of necessary tools for working with GLC

If there is no possibility to purchase power tools, you can rent it.

Plan of work on the installation of a wooden frame for partition from GLK

To build a durable wood frame for a drywall partition, you should act on the planned plan.

Preparatory work and drawing

The first step in the installation is the preparation of the surface. This requires an analysis of the floor surface, adjacent walls, ceiling. The whole surface should be smooth. If you attach a smooth wooden bar to the wall, there will be a 0.3 mm gap. It is not critical, but the gap of 0.5-0.8 and will be more affected by the design, because when fixing the bar, it will come. Therefore, the entire surface must be smooth.

The deviation of the surface from the norm should be no more than 0.8 mm.

Mandatory in the room should be dry and clean. To do this, remove all objects interfering for installation. Remove the garbage, remove dust and cobweb. It is desirable to process the surface of the surface with an antiseptic mixture.

When the surface is prepared, you can proceed to the drawing on paper. To begin with, it is necessary to determine the type of partition. Will she take half of the room or in the form of a wall? Will there be windows, doors or arch? This should be reflected on paper.

The next step is measurements. All dimensions dropped around the perimeter, as well as alleged window and doorways, are applied to the drawing of the partition.

Scheme of plasterboard partition on wooden frame

Every 40 cm is installed vertical racks. Horizontal jumpers are installed in the joints of the drywall shest. In the place of the doorway there is an increase in the horizontal beam. In a niche, which will be functional, also enhanced. In case of covering the septum with two HCL layers, the calculation is required for horizontal jumpers of the first layer of GLC (joints) and the second layer of sheets of sheets.

Marking for wooden frame partition

Markup will need a level or laser. It is necessary to mark with accuracy on the ceiling and semi horizontal lines, on the wall strictly vertical strip. On these lines, fasteners are marked. And it should also be noted the borders of the doorway.

Marking for future plasterboard partition

In order for the markup to be accurate, pinch should be applied. They are descended from the ceiling down. The cone tool does not reach the floor 1-2 mm. A fixed plumb on the ceiling line with its end of the ship shows the exact point on the floor. The plumbings should be kept at least three points through the entire width of the partition.

Montage of wooden frame

Mounting frame base begins with the fastening of a wooden bar to the ceiling. There are some nuances here. If the ceiling overlap is wooden (private wooden house, duncan), then conventional wood screws are used 3.5 * 35. If the base is concrete or brick, then to the wall, the wooden bars are mounted with nails dowels, to the ceiling anchor-wedge.

Originally attached a wooden timber to the ceiling

All guides (basic) bars are attached with a step of 30-40 cm. It will give the reliability and strength of the entire design. If the plaster layer is unreliable, there is an option to replace the dowels on wooden pegs. They are tightly driven into the wall, sometimes they are labeled with alabaster solution on top, after which the self-tapping screw is screwed.

Vertical Bar fixed on the wall

After fastening the guide above, you should attach the bar at the bottom. It should be done very carefully, since the fitting partition depends on this procedure. The last bar is fixed to the wall, thereby tying outdoor and ceiling fixed materials. There should be a frame. In all inner angles, 90 degrees are attached metallic corners. This is an additional fixation of the reliability of the frame. The corner is manufactured independently in the absence of furniture parts.

Installation of vertical racks

Now you should install vertical racks. They are created from the tree of the same section as the binding. Fixing the racks comes in wood screws. For strength, metal corners are installed. In the location of the planned door, vertical racks are enhanced (2 shot down bars).

Horizontal jumpers are installed at the junction seat of the plasterboard sheet. And also reinforced horizontal jumpers are put in places of the niche created and at the top of the doorway.

Installing and fixing horizontal jumper

In the place of the doorway at the bottom of the wooden bar will serve the threshold. But, if this element is not provided, the tree is cut, and the edges of the bar are additionally attached to self-drawing dowels.

Wiring

In the design of this type, communications is not possible. But, if you need to make backlight, the socket, switch, then along the path of laying wires, the drill in the tree are made of a small diameter holes.

It should be noted that the conducting of wires through the holes in the tree should be only with the use of corrugations or inserted metal tubes to avoid fire.

Wires are launched into these holes. Wiring should be made according to the electrical component. It should be saved. In places of switches and sockets, it is necessary to highlight place under the box.

Installed boxes for sockets and switches in a wooden frame

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Plasterboard on a wooden frame: arguments and countersdowns, restrictions and tips on the installation

When it makes sense to mount a drywall sheet on the frame at all, and on the wooden in particular? In what cases does the use of wooden crates inexpedient? How and from what to properly assemble a wooden frame for plasterboard? How to perform a framework of a frame and putty GLK? In my article I will try to answer these questions.

Glk against plaster

First, let's decide whether to contact the plasterboard at all or is better to use the plaster in the old way.

Here are the arguments in favor of GLK:

• High finishing rate due to a significant leaf area (3 square meters at 2500x1200 mm);
• The possibility with minimal costs to eliminate significant irregularities of the base. Let's say when the height drops between adjacent elements of the slab overlap in 8-10 centimeters (yes, and it happens) to align the ceiling by plaster is very consistent and unsafe: the fall of the detached plastering such thickness can make a lot of troubles.

But for the GLC on the crate, the condition of the surface does not matter under it - if only it was to secure the framework;

• Kraft paper surface (gypsum core shell) has excellent adhesive properties. It can be glued with the wallpaper of any density using any wallpaper glue; The tile is also perfectly glued to cement tiled adhesive or homemade mortar on a cement basis.

Curious: For stickers tiles on plasterboard over the bathroom, I used a point-applied silicone sealant. It was used to seal the seams between tiles and an apron to the bath. All seams retain absolute tightness for three years of active exploitation of the bathroom; Tile keeps more than secure.

What plasterboard loses plaster?

1. Mechanical strength. Clarify: on this parameter, the gypsum sheet is inferior only to cement plaster. Use GLK to finish the walls in the gym or in the workshop - a dubious idea;
2. Resistance to water with constant contact with it. Alas, even moisture-resistant plasterboard tolerates only high air humidity. It is worth immersing the gypsum core into the water - and it will be splashing in the same way as any other product of the gypsum. Accordingly, there will be a bad idea to use GLC without protecting the waterproof finishing for the construction of shower walls;
3. Occupied by the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room. The walls with insignificant irregularities in a small room is better to level the thin layer of plaster: after all, even pasted directly on the wall, without a crate, a sheet of GLC, taking into account the thickness of the glue, will shift the surface of each wall at least 20 mm. When installing on the frame, each wall will move to the center of the room at 60 - 80 mm.

Frame against glue

When is it worth mounting drywall on the frame, and when it is better to glue it directly on the wall?

Everything is simple here: if the differences, the dumps and the curvatinity of the base exceeds 40 - 50 millimeters, the framework is necessary. In this case, the glue is preferred: it will again save the room space.

There are, however, two more scenarios that will be fed down to the attachment of GLCs on the crate:

1. Installation of plasterboard partition. Here comments seem to be not required: without a frame of her skin, it simply not sharply secure.
2. Gasket behind the lining of the wall of communications - water supply, sewage, electrical wiring, ventilation, etc. Hide them for falsely much easier than to strobs the capital wall.

In some cases (for example, if we are talking about the panel septum inside the apartment), a significant width and depths are impossible in principle.

Tree against profile

In what cases will allow the installation of drywall on a wooden frame, and when is the galvanized profile preferred?

Brusk has the only dignity - cheapness. In order not to be unfounded, I will give average barn prices and profile for the Moscow region:

Next: wood, in contrast to galvanized steel, gigroscopic, and also capable change your linear dimensions and geometry Depending on air humidity. From the practical side, this means that in the raw room, a wooden lamp can be swallowed and unhappy the wall cladding, or even lead to the appearance of cracks by its seams.

Finally, a tree subject to biological influences: It rotes and becomes food for the woods. Again, in contrast to galvanized.

1. Wood frame for drywall can be used only in dry rooms. For the bathroom, kitchen or combined bathroom, it is worth preferred to a galvanized profile;
2. The elements of the crate before its assembly must be mandatory processed by antiseptic.

Loophole

There is, however, an easy way to bring the wood to a galvanized profile for operational qualities. In order for it to fully lose the hygroscopicity and the ability to deform with humidity fluctuations, the bar is sufficient soak oil: The components of its oils will fill the pores between the fibers in the outer layer of the tree, forming the shell impenetrable for water with polymerization.

This operation has several subtleties:

• Olif is better to apply heated in a water bath. Then it penetrates the structure of the fibers deeper; Accordingly, the waterproof coating will be more durable;

• The ends cut down the size of the bar easier do not cover the oil with the help of a brush, but to make a jar with her. It is the ends due to the orientation of the fibers perpendicular to the surface most vulnerable to moisture;
• Olife dries several days and has a strong characteristic odor. For drying bar, it is better to highlight a separate room with good ventilation.

Selection of material

What is the carcass under the plasterboard from the tree?

I did not in vain, as an example, the price of a lamination crate of a bit of 50x50 millimeters: It is he who is the most chassis for assembling frames of partitions and cladding (ceiling and wall).

With special requirements for the stiffness of the septum, it can be collected from the bar 50x100; In this case, the wide party is oriented perpendicular to the wall plane: this is how the maximum resistance to the side load is achieved.

Finally, when installing a wall shabby, a edged and unedged arbitrary width board can be used. It is attached to the capital wall with long dowel-screws or even nails in wooden chops.

Are there any requirements for the quality of wood?

When assembling the frame or when installing the crates on the suspensions - there.

Wood should not have vices from the following list:

• Rot and defeat by the woods;
• Cosovation (significant deviation of the direction of wood fibers from the longitudinal axis of the bar);
• Dropping bitch with a diameter of more than a third side of the bar.

The instruction is related to the fact that all these vices are destructively affect the strength of the frame. In addition, the moisture content of the tree should not exceed 20%: when dried, the bar is often breeding.

Montage Rules Karcasa

Partition

The assembly of the partition frame begins with the markup of the fastening lines of the upper and lower strapping on the ceiling and on the floor, as well as extreme racks on the adjacent walls. To lies strictly in the same plane, use a plumb.

Then the bars of strapping and extreme racks are attached to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. The damper tape is laid under them, excluding the transmission of acoustic oscillations by capital designs of the building and thereby contributing to noise insulation. Anchor bolts or ordinary dowel screws can be used to fasten the strapping and racks to the walls.

The next stage is the installation of racks. The step between them is determined by the requirements for the stiffness of the septum and is 40 or 60 centimeters. The width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step so that the seam between adjacent sheets accounted for exactly on the middle of the rack.

The edges of the adjacent sheets are as possible to be attached to a common framework or cable element for them. In this case, the probability of the appearance of cracks on the seams is minimal.

Connections of racks with strapping do not experience significant operational loads - they are assumed to cover partitions, drywall, so any methods of attaching racks are allowed:

• Clogged or wrapped at an angle of the stand of nails or self-tapping screw;
• Inserting from the trimming of the bar, which is attached to the strapping, after which the rack is attracted to it;

• Galvanized perforated lining;
• Furniture corners;
• Cutting struts in drapery with a fit on glue. However, it is not suitable for the frame elements impregnated with oil: impregnation reduces adhesive quality of glue.

For gluing dry wood, you can use both specialized joinery adhesives and the usual construction glue PVA. For our purposes, the strength of its seam is quite sufficient; Drying glue takes no more than 12 hours.

How to install the door in the wooden frame partition?

1. In the lower strapping, there is a pass on the width of the door with the box;
2. The door leaf is crushed in a box with wooden wedges. The goal is to store the gaps after installing the gaps that do not allow the doors to rub the shoals;
3. With one of the edges of the doorway, the rack adjacent to the box is mounted;
4. On the outer surface of the box, the strip of the mounting foam is applied, after which it is attracted by self-drawing to the rack. Self-tapping screws are screwed from the side of the rack, their length is selected so that they deepen into the box, but they did not pass through;
5. From the second side of the opening, the second rack is similarly mounted;
6. On top of the racks are connected by the jumper;
7. All compounds of racks with strapping are enhanced by galvanized overlays on self-drawing.

The light window (for example, in the bathroom wall) is established similarly - with a correction to the fact that its frame is based on the horizontal jumper between the racks.

Dome of the suspension

How do you collect a wooden crate to clamp a wall with significant gypsum drywall?

1. Assembly of the frame and in this case begins with mounting to the floor and the ceiling of the bottom and upper strapping. The damper tape is also put under them. The method of fastening the strapping is the same as in the above scenario;
2. Then, extreme racks are attached to the adjacent walls through the damper fly;
3. On the capital wall strictly vertically, the positions of intermediate racks are placed on the plumb (remind, with a step of 40 or 60 cm from the center to the center of Brousa);
4. Along every rack with a step of 80 cm attached dowel-screws direct suspensions;
5. The racks are set on the markup, after which they are screwed up with screws on a 25 mm ears of the suspension. The free part of the ears is bent to the wall. The frame is ready for the trim.

Cruise on pads

With a relatively small curvatroniness of the wall, the crate can be attached to it without suspension, using wood strips or plywood. In this case, as I mentioned above, you can use not only the bar, but also the unedged board.

If necessary, a lumber of any width can be dissolved on narrow powder or a bar with a typical manual disk saw with a guide frame. The sawing of one board takes no more than two to three minutes.

The doomle is attached to the capital wall with long dowel-screws or nails in pre-drilled holes with wooden choppers. Lower blockage as such is missing; Instead of her in the gap between the racks of the crates to the floor and the ceiling, short bars are attracted, which will continue to fit the plinth and baguette.

Ceiling

The skeleton of a simple single-level stream is mounted in the same way as a doomle on direct suspension - adjusted to the location in the horizontal plane. To create a frame of curvilinear elements of a multi-level stream, thick (at least 15 mm) plywood is used; When covering, GLC is attracted by self-drawing to her end.

Sheaving

How to mount plasterboard on a wooden frame?

For the walls of the walls used wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm. The ceiling is usually trimmed with a ceiling drywall with a thickness of 9.5 mm. In dry rooms, an ordinary GLC (white) is used, in wet - moisture resistant (blue).

Let me remind you again: in premises with high humidity, the wooden frame is necessarily sequentially soaked with an antiseptic and oil.

For fastening sheet, tapping screws are used for a 32 mm long tree. Self-dynamics length exceeds used when mounting on the profile. The step between adjacent mounting points is 15-20 centimeters; The average fastener consumption is 100 screws on a sheet of 2500x1200.

When installing a challenged sheets (if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the sheet), an additional bar is laid under perpendicular pillars. Instead, you can use the cutting board or thick (from 12 mm) plywood. The main thing is that the edges of the adjacent sheets are attached to the overall element of the frame.

Where the wall or partition is not experiencing deforming loads (for example, under the ceiling), you can do without bookmarking the bar under the transverse seam. In his absence it is especially important to correctly perform reinforcement, which I will tell a little later.

In rooms with high patency or with alleged significant loads on the walls (kitchen, hallway, etc.) Frame is better to sow two layers. The GLC of the first layer is attached by 32 mm longs; Fasteners consumption - 20-30 self-tapping screws on a full-size sheet. The second layer of HCL is mounted with the ligation of horizontal and vertical seams; For fastening, tapping screws are used on a 45 mm long floor at the rate of 100 pieces onto a sheet.

How to cut GLK for the desired size?

• The curvilinear parts are cut with an electric bison with a tree filling. GLCs cut them very quickly and without any effort, but with cutting into the air, a huge number of plaster dust rises. It settles on all surfaces in the room. Especially destroyed gypsum for bearings of cooling systems of computers and laptops, so at the time of repair, they need to be kept off and covered with polyethylene;

• Along the straight lines of the GLCs are caught with a sharp knife according to a quarter of thickness, after which they break on the edge of the table or any other suitable elevation.

After mounting the seams between the sliced \u200b\u200bsheets, the sheets are expanded: the headset at the angle of 45 degrees on half of the sheet thickness is sharp.

Reinforcement and shtcocking

The plasterboard sheaves wall or partition is not yet ready for finishing: hats of self-tapping and seams between sheets need to be hidden by putty. In addition, the seams and the outer corners of the walls need reinforcement and strengthening.

For reinforcement of seams is traditionally used sERPYANK- Self-adhesive firmware with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It passes along the seam, after which he is filled with putty right through the grid cells. Place is at least twice: the gypsum putty gives a small, but quite noticeable shrinkage during drying.

Outdoor corners are enhanced:

• Galvanized perforated angular profile;
• Plastic profile with a grid.

The corner is removed in a putty applied to the angle, after which it is covered by another layer.

However, I prefer to use an ornamental plastic plastic plastic plastic plastic plastic plastic plastic.

In the photo - the angle of the partition protected by a decorative plastic corner.

What putty to use to equalize the surface?

The most common gypsum spacities produced by the German company Knauf - HP Finish and Fugen. However, I am much like more cheaper and less common ABS Saten.: The mixture lives noticeably longer (at least 45 minutes against 25-30 in the products of KNAUF), if necessary, can be diluted with water (which increases its life to an hour or more) and does not give lumps when the shifting.

How to prepare putty?

1. Water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of dry gypsum mixture is poured into wide dishes (I use plastic bucket from paint);
2. The mixture is poured into water, as much as possiblely distributed over its surface;
3. After 3-5 minutes, the swelling putty is mixed - manually (spatula) or a mealker for a drill.

How and how to put the seams, corners and hats of self-tapping screws?

• Hats are covered with two movements of a width of 10-12 cm crosswise. The first sliding movement fills the deepening with a putty, the second ("on the SDIR") removes its excess;
• The seams are also filled with cruciform movements of the same spatula. In this case, the seam turns out to be filled with putty as much as possible. The cavity in it increases the likelihood of cracks. The second passage of seams together with its reinforcing sickle is covered by the longitudinal movements of the spatula 30 - 35 cm wide;

• For alignment of external and internal angles, it is better to use special angular spatulas.

After filling the seams and disguise the Hats fasteners, the GLCs often put off all over the area. A layer of putty thick about a millimeter finally masks the seams and does not allow the base to be shifted through painting.

Next stage - grinding. GLCs are grinding nets No. 80 to the first pass and No. 120 - 160 second pass. Grind better with bright braid lighting, which will emphasize the slightest irregularities due to the shadows dropped. I use an inexpensive vibration grinder for grinding.

By the way: if necessary, intermediate grinding can be performed after filling the seams and sealing the screws. Its necessity is determined only by the state of the surface.

The smooth surface of GLC is dustd (I clean it from the dust with a regular blizzard) and the penetrating acrylic soil is ground. The soil gluits dust residues and improve the adhesion between the surface of the drywall and the finishing coating - paint or wallpaper.

Wallpapers can be glued immediately after drying soil, but painting will have to wait at least two weeks After shtlivania. If you hurry, the seams will be shifted through any number of paint layers due to the end of the evaporated moisture.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope that I managed to answer all the questions accumulated from the respected reader. As usual, additional information will offer you a video in this article. Do not hesitate to share our own experience in comments. Successes, Camrads!

September 28, 2016.

If you want to express your gratitude, add clarification or objection to ask the author - add a comment or tell me thanks!

Despite the fact that there is a way of mounting drywall on a frame of a metal profile, many prefer to mount this finish on a wooden crate.

It is preferable if you need to mount a single-level ceiling or simply to strip the wall. This is a method of cheaper, dried in the chamber is not deformed, perfectly withstands such a load and is able to reliably serve for many years. In addition, this installation is simple, and it is chosen by those who lead to the drywall independently.

Montage of the rush frame for suspended ceiling

• 1 Preparatory work.

  Before starting the installation work, the lowest point of the ceiling is visually determined. It is marked with its design position: retreat 5cm, and with the help of the level of the horizontal line around the perimeter. If the work is performed correctly, the initial and endpoint must match. For this horizontal, the rake is fastened with the help of screws around the perimeter.

• 2 Installation of longitudinal regions.

  Next you need production longitudinal rails for the crate. The profile is selected from 30 * 40 to 50 * 70 cm. The finished length of each should be 1 cm less than the ceiling length. They are screwed by self-absorbers at an equal distance from each other. The possible curvature of the ceiling surface is eliminated either by the shy of the rail, or the small pieces of dense cardboard are put into the depressions. Longitudinal rails are fastened with self-drawing to the surface of the ceiling.

• 3 Installation of crates.

  For wooden crate choose dried in a special drying chamber Rake. This completely eliminates the possibility of their deformation. It should be remembered that the raw material during drying can lead to the loss of self-tapping screws from the body of wood. If a material is good quality, then reiki fasten with increments from 50 to 70 cm. For regions with a wet climate or in case there is insufficient ventilation in the room, step is better to cut to 40cm. You should not save on self-drawing. In any case, a reliable fastening of the frame of the frame to the ceiling will provide you with long and trouble-free operation in the future.

• 4 Installation of longitudinal plates for connecting plasterboard sheets.

  Suitable size for work - 25 * 80 mm. On a wide side, the sheet is comfortably joined. In addition, it guarantees the reliability of the installation. Placing the future location of the rails in such a way that the joints of the sheets of plasterboard accounted for their middle. After that, the cables of electrical wiring are stacked and start assembling drywall.

With us you can for mounting drywall only from high-quality lumber. It passed a special drying in the chambers, so its surface is dense with the necessary level of humidity at 12-14%. Rakes are not deformed and easily withstand the load as a carrier frame. Mounting on wooden rails is simple, reliable and fast.

Working with us, you get the opportunity to acquire a great product at the lowest price and maintain repair in your home without excess costs.

It will only be about the longitudinal (vertical) cladding scheme. Approximate cladding sequence on wooden frame as follows:

1. Place the position of the bars of the crate and cut them in size. When cutting racks, it is necessary to subtract from the length of the wall thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars.

2. Install racks and upper and lower horizontal bars.

3. Install short bars over door and window openings, slightly shifting vertical short bars so as not to make cuts in drywall.

4. Refrigerate (glue GLC) window and doorways inside. Needle plasterboard sheets on the walls.

5. Nail sheets around window and doorways.

6. Close the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls to the finish finish.

Walls made of brick and masonry are rarely perfectly even, so in the manufacture of plasterboard facing, all irregularities should be taken into account. Much difficulty is the alignment of the bars of the crate of vertical and horizontally. If this procedure does not pay due attention, smooth and smooth walls will not work.

Mounting the frame at an uneven wall is performed so. First detect the irregularities of the wall. The exhaled lower horizontal timing of the future frame is placed on the floor in the wall and spend a line along its outer edge. Perform markup at a rack with a pitch of 600 mm. Then the racking wheel is pressed vertically to the wall and the position of the end is noted at an equal intervals when it comes out the line on the floor. Connect the marks of the second line parallel to the first. Attach the support bar to the floor so that its outer edge goes along the outdoor mark. Install vertical bars on the support, aligning their external surfaces, inserting, if necessary, gaskets. Equality check with a plumb, level and rule. Fix the horizontal bar at the ceiling level. It is more convenient to first install two extreme racks (vertical bar) and stretch the cord between them. Then set the intermediate racks and check the fixation of the installation on the cord if the floor is uneven, then the support bar is also put on anything in the right places (so that it is installed at one level), and then exhibit all the other bars.

For alignment of the racks, trimming plywood, fiberboard, wood of the desired thickness are used. On the gaskets you can apply a little glue on the tree before clogging for bars. The gaskets are installed in those cases, if the ends of the bar are tightly on the wall surface, and in any of its middle part there is a gap (concave wall).

When deflection on a large segment, the step between the dowels should be reduced to increase the rigidity of the bar.

If there is a smooth floor and if it allows its area, you can simplify the process of mounting the frame. For this, the internal perimeter of the wall is carefully measured. Then the frame was collected on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm for a length and 5 mm to height. Brux bars are inserted into the resulting frame with a pitch of 600 mm, and they are attached to nails clogged through the frame in the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the collected frame lies face on the smooth floor - in the assembled form it will already have a flat surface. Therefore, the step of the reconciliation of each bar in terms of the level is thus excluded. It remains only to insert the collected frame at the perimeter of the wall and, together their edges, fix the dowels with screws or dowel-nails.

Marking for ordinary (universal, etc.) Dowels are performed using an electric drill. For this, the bar is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. Asking the partner to reliably hold the bar in its original position, drill through holes in it in an 800-1000 mm increments in such a way that the output drill makes marks on the wall. The diameter of the drill must be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the applied screws. After that, drill the wall to the installation of the dowels. Holes of the dowels after they are installed accurately coincide with the holes in Broke.

In the event that the attachment of the bars will have to be performed without a partner, they come so. Find the point of the location of one dowel. Drilled in the wall (floor, ceiling) under it the hole in which the dowel is installed. After that, the bar is fixed on one dowel and holding it with one hand so that it does not shift, drill through holes in the bar until a clear mark on the wall is obtained. After that, the bar can be removed or simply turn around the axis of the installed dowel (pre-twisting a little screw) so that access to marked places has opened. After that, the holes are drilled and the remaining dowels are installed.

It is most convenient to perform the fastening of the frame to the brick or concrete wall of a dowel-nail. The bar is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, drill through holes in it with a step of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill the hole in the wall. The diameter of the drill with a winning tip is determined by the dowel diameter.

Fastening the frame to the wooden wall is carried out with the help of long galvanized nails.

Facing the walls of the room with plasterboard can be started either from the angle or from the window or door opening. For fastening the sheathing on a wooden frame, screw screws 35 mm long with a step of fastening 250 mm or galvanized nails (better than special serrated) 40 mm long (for sheets of 12.5 mm thick) with a 100 mm fastening step. GLCs are fixed around the perimeter and to intermediate racks (see Fig. 47). The indentation from the edges is the same - from the edge of the lined edge of the edge of at least 10 mm and from the edge of the unclosed edge of at least 15 mm. Work is carried out from the angle in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. Nails are driven until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the head of the nail or the screw should not break the paper. There should be space in 5-7 mm for decoration of seams between sheets of drywall. Between the floor and the end edges of the plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm. Between the ceiling and the upper end edges of drywall sheets, it is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws should be covered and cleaned.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to overlap the entire room in height, the sheets are placed with the displacement of adjacent end joints (rotary), and in the places of compounds, the transverse bars are mounted.

To date, plasterboard is rightly recognized by one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is explained by his pricing accessibility and indisputable ease. It is very often treated for alignment of overlaps in the house. Today we will talk about how to mount plasterboard to the walls, as well as get acquainted with all the advantages and disadvantages of this common finishing material.

What it is?

Before proceeding to the study of such a finishing material, such as plasterboard, it is worth understanding what he represents.

Plasterboard is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with solid plaster and special fillers inside. It is used in various purposes. For various works, sheets with different thickness are produced. Looking plasterboard panels can not only on the walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose the materials of the appropriate category.

Features

Today in the stores of construction and finishing materials you can find absolutely any products for any repair work. For alignment of walls, customers are offered high-quality putty, plaster and other practical compositions. However, many people choose for such works "dry" material - plasterboard.

To date, the problem of uneven walls familiar to many.It is faced with owners of private houses and urban apartments. However, it is quite possible to make the overlaps of smooth, not attracting the brigade of the finishes.

Uneven floors are bad not only what they look unpainted, but also the fact that many finishing materials cannot be applied on them. This can be attributed to the tile, most types of paints and wallpapers. Based on the drops and potholes, such coatings are held unreliable, and they look very inaccurated. Many of the finishing materials and emphasize irregularities on the walls.

In such cases, do not do without perfectly smooth and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat look. In addition, the sheets of this popular material are as simple as possible in processing and can be coated with practically any canvases and paints.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall with a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless montage method, which specialists consider more complex.

Choosing one or another installation method, it is worth considering that it is necessary to work with drywall. This is due to its feature consisting in the fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the plasterboard, then it is hardly possible to return to him the primordial species. That is why for the manufacture, for example, arched structures, the usual plasterboard will not fit, because when it is easy to flexure it will just break.

Another distinguishing quality of plasterboard is its multitasking. It is used not only to align different bases, but also for the manufacture of interesting multi-level ceilings, racks with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and the ease of working with it.

Pros and cons

Like any other finishing material, plasterboard has advantages and disadvantages of which you should know if you decide to install it on the walls in your home.

To begin with, you will get acquainted with the list of positive qualities of plasterboard sheets:

• They differ in a smooth and smooth surface, due to which they are chosen to align different bases.
• The advantage of plasterboard is also its thermal conductivity. Indoor, where the walls are covered with this material, will always be warm and cozy.
• Plasterboard is recognized as an environmentally friendly material. It has no dangerous and harmful substances in its composition, so it can be safely used even in the decoration of children's rooms.
• The sheets of GLC fireproof and do not support burning.

• Another weighty advantage of plasterboard is its vapor permeability. Thanks to this quality, such material is not subject to the formation of mold and fungus.
• Often, consumers buy precisely plasterboard, as it has an affordable price, but applied in various purposes.
• Plasterboard walls can be complemented by various insulation (more often prefers polyplex and mineral wool).
• Work with plasterboard is quite simple. To do this, you do not need to be purchased by expensive tools.

• Using this finish material, you can implement any bold designer ideas. That is why plasterboard uses many designers in their developments.
• Plasterboard does not require expensive and regular care.
• From the GLK does not come unpleasant chemical smell.
• He is fragilely processed. To do this, you can use almost any materials from conventional paper wallpapers to tile.

• Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any rooms. It may be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter it is necessary to select moisture-resistant canvas.
• Thanks to the gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
• With a skeletal method of fastening drywall, rough walls do not need long and scrupulously prepared with special compositions. It is enough to treat them with antiseptic means to avoid the reproduction of harmful microorganisms.
• Many consumers are purchased for repairing drywall, because it can be used immediately after the purchase, giving them to lie 2-3 days without exposing additional preparation.
• To date, the selection of plasterboard sheets allows you to choose the optimal option for any conditions.

As you can see, a list of positive qualities at drywall is quite impressive.

However, he has its weaknesses:

• Normal plasterboard is not recommended to mount in rooms with high humidity. For such conditions, it is worth choosing extremely moisture-resistant types of material. However, according to specialists, even such plasterboard in wet conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
• Plasterboard sheets can begin to crumble, especially under the action of large loads. That is why the gypsum walls are not allowed to hang heavy items such as large hours, suspended shells in the bathroom, lighting devices, large paintings and other objects with considerable weight. Otherwise, these things will take long on their places, and then just fall off and damage the plasterboard.

• Working with plasterboard needs very careful not to damage it. Do not bend this material if only it is arched.
• Plasterboard on the frame will "eat" some space in the room, so this method of installing the material is not suitable for all squares.

As far as the listed minuses are - each consumer must decide for itself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you can easily select the material and when you fasten the walls to the walls to strictly follow the instructions.

Materials and tools

If you decide to independently install plasterboard on partitions in your home, then you should be in withdrawing tools and materials.

From the toolkit you will be useful:

• special knife for cutting plasterboard sheets;
• special glue (for frameless installation method);
• construction level, plumbing, special markup cord, roulette, long line (instead you can take the rule), pencil / marker - these tools will be needed to mark the walls and for competent control over the vertical surfaces;
• ordinary and rubber hammers;

• spatula (instead you can take trowel);
• separate container for kneading the adhesive composition;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;

• self-tapping screw;
• dowel;
• screws;
• electric drill with a nozzle mixer;

• roller with a long handle;
• soft tassel;
• planned (needed to cut the chamfer);
• putclone (for applying the finish layer after all works).

From the materials you will need:

• the sheets of GLC (ordinary, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the installation of sheets is planned);
• galvanized profile or wooden bar (for frame formation with the corresponding installation method).

Application area

Plasterboard is a versatile material. It is used in a variety of conditions and fragilely fixed on various bases.

Without this material, just do not do if we are talking about a wooden house or building from the cut.In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require competent alignment. However, it should be borne in mind that the houses from the tree always give shrinkage and plasterboard plates in them can only be installed after the completion of this process. Otherwise, sheets can be damaged in such conditions or deform.

To install drywall on the walls in wooden houses, it is necessary:

• provide space for mounting the insulation (if you, of course, plan to insulate the room further);
• have a free space for laying communication systems.

Align the walls in wooden houses is not easy. In this case, the optimal option will be the frame installation. However, some owners first fasten on the boards and bars sheets of plywood or chipboard, and then plasterboard are glued to them.

Plasterboard is permissible to attach to walls with a concrete basis. For such surfaces, it is not necessary to make a complex frame. Plasterboard can be glued to such bases using a special glue. Such adhesive compositions today are found in stores very often. For example, the qualitative composition of PERLFIX offers a well-known company Knauf.

Plasterboard is often used to align brick walls.Here you can also refer to the usual stance of the material without the manufacture of the frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out with the help of a level as far as the overlap is curved, after which any contamination, dust and fat stains are removed from the brick. In addition, the brick wall should be absolutely dry, otherwise sufficient adhesion with drywall will not succeed even when using high-quality glue.

In case you want to level the walls of foam blocks, you should contact the framework of the installation. This is explained by the softness of such grounds. However, some users turn to the frameless installation, but before this foam must be prepared - to separate the ground or plaster.

Walls made of aerated concrete also often require alignment. In such cases, it is possible to use frame, and frameless mounting methods. In the second case, it is necessary to treat aerated concrete bases for the primer of deep penetration. Glue in such cases it is necessary to select especially carefully, as in cases with overlappings from foam blocks. Experts recommend applying the compositions from Knauf and "Will Montage".

Plasterboard will be able to make walls even in saman houses.Such buildings are full composites built from clay, land, straw and sand. Of course, with such materials, the construction of perfectly flat partitions does not have. For this reason, they simply need aligning plasterboard fabrics.

Methods of fastening

We have already mentioned above that plasterboard sheets are attached to the walls by making a frame or a frameless way. The selection of this or that installation variant largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the owners preferences.

On profile

This option is the mounted plasterboard is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, the gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame consisting of metal profiles recorded along the wall.

It is worth considering some nuances of this common installation method:

• Between the wall and the profile you can position the insulation, if necessary. Most often consumers choose mineral wool, penplex or foam. However, it is impossible to forget that the draft walls before laying the insulation layer must be processed by the antiseptic composition.
• In the cavity of the frame you can hide various engineering communications. It can be water pipes, heating batteries or wiring.
• Do not forget that in rooms with high levels of humidity, only moisture-resistant plasterboard is permissible. Conventional sheets in such conditions will serve not long.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on the frame has a number of advantages:

• with a similar installation in the room, additional noise and thermal insulation are ensured;
• frame mounting allows you to align even ugly wall curves;
• before installing the frame and fastener of drywall, black partitions do not require preparation (enough to go through them with antiseptics).

Consider more than step-by-step instructions for mounting drywall on the frame:

• First you need to measure the walls and make marking on the installation of metal profiles and suspensions.
• Marking under the guides should be started from the top profile. At the same time, the necessary indent is made from the overlap, then the line is carried out and with the help of a plumb is transferred to the floor.
• Vertical profiles need to be located at least 60 cm from each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each plasterboard leaf relies on three racks.
• As for the installation of the suspensions, it is necessary to withstand a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.

• After that, you can move directly to the mounting of the frame. First, around the perimeter needs to consolidate the guide profiles. To fasten their ceiling and floor, you need to use a perforator, dowels and screws.
• In the points marked during measurements it is necessary to attach the suspensions.
• In the guide profiles should be inserted bearing and secure their suspensions.
• Configure all the details as securely and tight as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire design will depend on the quality of the frame.

• Before installing plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to strengthen horizontal guides.
• When the frame will be ready, you should switch to the installation of plasterboard sheets on it. They must be fixed in a vertical position. To do this, you can use special 25 mm metal screws. But they need to fasten them in such a way that the caps were slightly "drowning" into the plasterboard.
• After installing all sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using the reinforcing tape.
• When the putty finally dries, the drywall attached to the frame should be fully sharpened. After that, the surface of the wall finish will be perfectly even smooth (without any flaws).

According to experts, such a installation technology is simpler. However, it is worth considering that a similar design takes part of the area indoors, so in a very small room it is better to use a frameless way, if, of course, it allows you to take overlap.

Blind designs

Frameless fastening of drywall is differently called adhesive, since it is fixed with the sheets at it with a special adhesive composition.

Choosing this installation option, you need to observe the following conditions:

• on draft floors there should be no fungus or mold;
• sowing plots should not be;

• walls should not be processed;
• they must be protected from dampness and excessive moisture;
• from the surface of the walls it is necessary to remove old finishing materials, as well as dust, dirt and any other contamination.

It can only be applied to the frameless fastening of drywall in the event that the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile framework.

You can glue drywall on bases in different ways.

The optimal option must be selected, based on the technical condition of the overlaps:

• The first method of installation is designed for more smooth surfaces. Under it, the fixing of plasterboard sheets occurs directly on the wall using mounting gypsum glue. It is transferred to the base around the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
• If the overlaps have on their surface of irregularities, then drywall is recommended to be glued to them with the help of the "Perlfix" glue. It must be applied portion along the entire length of the back side of the gypsum web (withstand the distance between the glue heaps of 35 cm), as well as on its perimeter.

Now it is worth considering the Instructions for the Filly Installation of Plasterboard Sheets:

• First you need to measure the floors and plan the placement of plasterboard plates.
• Then it is necessary to competently prepare the surface of the base. If the wall is distinguished by a porous structure, then it should be covered with a primer mixture.
• Now you need to cut down the sheets of GLK, as you will be useful to not only the entire panels, but also prepared inserts.
• To make a cut straight, it is better to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make cut curves, then you should use electric jigsaw.

• Prepare glue. To do this, you can use modern gypsum solutions that frozen sufficiently.
• If the glue dries too quickly and you wish to extend the time of breathing, it is worth adding an adhesive composition for wallpaper or good old PVA into water.
• Now you can start glitting on the walls on the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive layer. It directly depends on the area of \u200b\u200birregularities on the ground. If the overlaps are smooth enough, then the mixture can be superimposed immediately.
• To eliminate considerable curvature it is worth putting beacons. It is possible to build from drywall strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued throughout the perimeter in a vertical position, withsting a step at 40-50 cm.

• Right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb.
• After that, focusing on the mounting line (or thread), stretched between extreme beacons, you need to establish the remaining bands.
• Align lighthouses by rule.
• Plasterboard sheets need to be pressed using the rule installed in various positions. Touch the panel with a rubber hammer and correct their position.
• When the glue dries, the seams between the plasterboard panels must be separated by putty.

Plasterboard is a rescue circle in matters of wall leveling. Installation of gypsum sheets can not be called unbearable and energy-intensive.

So that you have a more aesthetic and reliable design, the following advice and recommendations from professionals should be taken into account:

• The installation of plasterboard plates in the room is permissible only after laying outdoor coatings. Also by the time of alignment of overlaps in the room, all questions should be solved on the laying of communications and heating systems.
• Printing plasterboard (with a frameless way), try to avoid cross-shakes. It is better to lay out sheets with offset.
• Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets with the distrofile mounting. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor is 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
• In order for the plasterboard to securely hold on overlaps, it is necessary to pay attention to their technical condition. The walls should not be shrouded and sprinkling areas.

• With a frame installation method, it is recommended to create a chamfer on the cropped material (it is needed for a better sealing of all finishing seams). To do this, it is recommended to use a special edge planer.
• All tools and materials are recommended to prepare before starting installation work. This will allow you to work without distracting and not spending time on extra action.
• Adhesive compositions need to be breeding, based on the instructions. It must be applied on the packaging.
• Do not tighten the fasteners on the drywall too much, as this can lead to deformation of a fragile material.
• To work with plasterboard you will need a level. Of course, you can choose the instrument yourself, to work with which you are more convenient, but experts advise to contact laser devices.

• Pay attention to the temperature regime during installation work. The temperature is +10 degrees recommended. If the room is tangible, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
• Plasterboard sheets are recommended to install on the walls not immediately after the purchase, and after it will lie at home for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.