Pre-revolutionary fashion. History of clothing design. Beautiful era - luxury time

The last century is the time of Krnolins, Tournogo, Polonza, Dolomana, abundant rushes and ruffles of all sorts of species. The next century behind him, the most height of the beauties (beautiful era), is distinguished by simplicity and common sense, and although the details are still carefully worked out, the finishing finish of the dresses and unnatural lines are gradually moving into the background. This craving for simplicity has become even stronger with the beginning of the First World War, which clearly proclaimed the two main principles of the female dress - freedom and ease of wearing.

Beautiful era - luxury time

In 1900 G.G., if you were an exquisite young English lady belonging to the elite of society, you were supposed to make a pilgrimage to Paris twice a year along with the other women from New York or St. Petersburg.

In March and September, we could notice a group of women visiting the studio on Rue Halevy, La Rue Auber, Rue De La Paix, Rue Taitbout and Vandom Square.
In these, often close shops, with feverishly working in the rear rooms, they met with their personal seller, who helped them choose the wardrobe for the next season.

This woman was their ally and knew all the darkest secrets of their lives as personal and financial! Survival of such early fashion houses is entirely dependent on their powerful clients, and the knowledge of their little secrets helped them in this!

Armed with copies "Les Modes", they looked through the last creations of the great couturies, such as Poire, Vortes, Callo sisters, Jeanne Packen, Madeleine Sheru and others to come up with a wardrobe, who would be eclipsed by the wardrobe not only friends, but also enemies!

Decade has passed, and these terrible magazine images of static women, where every seam is visible and every stitch, they were ousted by a more free and smooth style of "AR Nouveau", where new photographic image methods were used.

Together with the seller, women chose a wardrobe for the next six months: underwear, homemade clothes, dress for walking, alternation options in clothes, travel costumes by train or in the car, evening outfits for idle time, outfits for special occasions, such as ascot, Wedding, visit theater. The list can continue infinitely, here everything depended on the size of your wallet!

Wardrobe Ladies Edwardian Period (1901-1910 g)

Let's start with a wardrobe. It consisted of several underwear objects - day and night shirts, pantalonons, golf and lower skirts.

Women began their day with a combination selection, then put on the S-shaped corset, on top of which there was a bodice cover.

Next was the day ensemble. Usually it was the morning clothes made in a strict style, which could be worn when meeting with friends or when making purchases. As a rule, it consisted of a neat blouse and a wedge-shaped skirt, jacket jacket turned on top of the weather.

Returning to Lunch, it was necessary to quickly change the day outline. In the summer, it has always been any colorful clothing of pastel colors.

By 5 o'clock in the evening it was possible that with relief and was done, remove the corset and put on a tea dress for recreation and reception of friends.

By 8 o'clock in the evening, a woman was tightened to the corset again. Sometimes underwear has changed in fresh. After that, there was a turn of the evening dresses for home or, if necessary, to enter the light.

By 1910, such dresses began to change the changes under the influence of the work of the Poire field, whose satin and silk outfits inspired by the eastern motifs became very popular among the elite. Large hit 1910 in London ladded ladies' shots as a costume evening dress!

During the day it was also necessary, at least twice a day, changing stockings - cotton - for wearing in the afternoon - in the evening they changed to beautiful embroidered silk stockings. It was not easy to be a woman of Edwardian period!

Edwardian silhouette - myths and reality.

1900 - 1910

Until 1900g. Each lady from the highest society - with the help of his maid, was forced to tighten himself daily into close corsets, impellent breathing, as her mother and grandmother did. For a woman it was very painful! Definitely, the sale of a snuff salt was very profitable in that epoch.

The goal of the corset [if you believe the illustrations] was to push the top of the body forward, like a pigeon, and hips left back. However, Marion Macnili, comparing illustrations with photos of women 1900-g. In their daily life, suggested in Foundations Revealed, which the real goal of S-shaped corsets was demonstratively straight posture, created in order to emphasize the bends of the thighs and the chest by turning back the shoulders, as a result of which the chest was raised, and the hips were rounded.

My opinion on this issue is the following: There is a tendency, as in modern fashionable illustrations, too much to emphasize the line. Comparison of the Lucille Mod Lucille houses presented above from 1905 with a beautiful natural photo of a young woman from London made by Edward Sumbourne, proves the fact that women did not drag the corsets too much!

Most likely, it was an idealized version of the Woman of the Edwardian era of the time, popularized by Charles illustrations of Gibson, and postcards with Gibson's Girl Camilla Clifford, as a result of which we had an extremely exaggerated impression of the female forms of Edwardian era.

Fashion in dresses - 1900 - 1909

Women began to wear jackets in strict style, long skirts [Hem slightly raised], half boots on high heels.
The silhouette gradually began to change with the S-shaped in 1901 at the Ampire line by 1910. Typical colors of clothing for every day for the Woman of Edwardian period was a combination of two colors: light top and dark bottom. Material - linen canvas [for poor], cotton [for middle class] and silk and high-quality cotton [for the highest class].

As for the details, in a beautiful era, lace frills signaled about the social status of a woman. Numerous ruffles on the shoulders and the corsight, as well as appliques on skirts and dresses.

Despite the ban on wearing corsets, women, especially from a new middle class, began to feel greater social freedom. It became quite normal for women to travel abroad on bikes - for example, in the Alps or Italy, which is perfectly captured in a melodramatic picture "Room with a view", shot on the book E.M. Forster, which he published in 1908

Popular casual wear consisted of a white or bright cotton blouse with a high collar and a dark wedge-shaped skirt, starting under the breast and descending down to the ankles. Some skirts also stuck in the corset product from the waist to the place under the breast. This style: a simple sports blouse and skirt - for the first time appeared at the end of the 1890s.

Often there was one-only seam on the skirts, with the result that even the most hopeless figures acquired pleasant harmony!

Skirts and dresses sewed to the floor, but so that women can be comfortably climbed into the wagon. By 1910, the hem began to shorter and ended a little above the ankle. Initially, there were volumetric shoulders in the silhouette of the blouse, but by 1914 they were significantly reduced in the amount, which, in turn, led to a greater roundness of the hips.

By 1905, with the increasing popularity of Women's cars, following the fashion, became autumn and winter wearing a manto or a semi-long coat. Such coats were very fashionable, they were from the shoulder and ended below the waist, which was about 15 inches in length. In such a dress, and even in the new short skirt, which did not even reach the ankles, the woman looked very boldly! If there was a damp on the street or was snow, you could throw the boot on top to protect your clothes from dirt.

An afternoon dress, despite the fact that it was performed in various pastel shades and with numerous embroidery, remained quite conservative in the 1900s, as it was put on to visit official dinners, meetings and conservative women's meetings - Here the dress code was influenced by women with Victorian views on life!

Tea dresses in which women, if they were at home, usually dressed to 5 o'clock in the evening, were excellent: as a rule, they were made of cotton, white and very comfortable. It was the only time for the woman Edwardian era, when she could remove the corset and breathe normally! Women often met and entertained friends in a tea dress, because it was possible to afford to be extremely informal!

In Britain, Edwardian period, women were given the opportunity to demonstrate their best outfits from Paris during the London season passing from February to July. Starting with Covent Gardena, royal techniques and private balls and concerts, and ending with jumps in Ascota, the elite of society demonstrated its most recent, the best and worst outfits.

Evening dresses in Edwardian period were frosted and causing, with a deep neckline, which openly demonstrated the breast of women and her decorations! Evening dresses in the 1900s. Sold from a luxurious material. By 1910, women began to tire from major evening dresses, especially for the French fan, who decided to abandon loops on the dress and switched to the style of Ampir from Poire, inspired by the Russian Seasons.

In 1909, when Edwardian period was already approached by an end, there was a strange fashion for narrow skirts with interception below the knees, whose arrival is also counted to the Pouare field.

Such narrow skirts strongly tightened a woman's knees, which made it difficult to move. In combination with increasingly popular broad-colonged hats [in some cases, their size reached 3 feet], which received their popularity thanks to Lucille - the main competitor of Poire from America, it began to seem that fashion moved all the faces intelligent by 1910

Hairstyles and ladies' hats in the Edwardian period 1900 - 1918.

Fashionable magazines of that time began to pay great attention to hairstyles. The most popular then considered curls, curled by forceps in the style of "Pompadour", as it was one of the fastest ways of laying hair. In 1911, the 10-minute hairstyle "Pompadour" becomes the most popular!

On such hairstyles were well kept surprisingly large hats, which were eclipsed by the hairstyles they were jokes.

By 1910, hairstyles in the style of "Pompadour" were gradually changed to "Low Pompadour", which, in turn, with the onset of World War I turned into simple low laid beams.

To use the advantages of this hairstyle, the hats began to wear below, right on the beam, wide fields and bright feathers of previous years have gone. Military time norms have not approved such things.

"Russian seasons" 1909 - wind change

By 1900, Paris was the world capital of fashion, and the houses of fashion Worth, Callot Soeurs, Doucet and Paquin were included in the list of leading names. High fashion or from-couture is the so-called enterprise using the most expensive fabrics for the sale of their influential elite of Paris, London and New York. However, the style remained the same - ampir lines and directory lines - high waist and straight lines, pastel paints, such as greenish color of the Nile water, pale pink and sky-blue, reminiscent of tea outfits and evening dresses of the society.

It's time for change. This was preceded by the following events: the effect of Art Deco, which emerged from the modernist movement; The offensive of the Russian Seasons, for the first time in 1906 in the form of an exhibition organized by their founder Sergey Dyagilev, the phenomenal performances of the Russian imperial ballet 1909 with their luxurious costumes inspired by the East and created by Leon Bakstom.

Nijinsky dancer sharovar caused a vast surprise among women, and the wizard of opportunism Paul Poire, having considered their potential, created a harem skirt, which was very popular among young people from the British top class for some time. Poire, possibly, under the influence of the illustrations of Bakst, 1906, felt the need to create more expressive illustrations for his creations, as a result of which he attracted the illustrator of the Illustrator of the IRIBO, operating in the style of "AR Nouveau", to illustrate his work "Pouare field dresses" In 1908 it is impossible to overestimate that the influence that this work has had a fashion and art. After that, the two of these great masters worked together for two decades.

The emergence of modern fashion - 1912 - 1919

By 1912, the silhouette acquired more natural outlines. Women began to wear long straight corsets as the basis for tightly fitting day outfits.

Oddly enough, a short return in the past in 1914 was just nostalgia: most of the fashion houses, including the Fashion House Poire, presented temporary stylish solutions with tournights, hoops and garters. However, the desire for change was no longer stopped, and by 1915, at the height of the raging bloody war in Europe, Callo sisters represent a completely new silhouette - not a surrounding female shirt over a direct base.

Another interesting innovation in the first war years was the appearance of a blouse that coincides in color - the first step towards the daily style, which was destined to become the main element of a female costume.

Coco Chanel adored female shirts or dress cutting "Shirt" and thanks to his love for a popular American jacket or sailor blouse [Blouse of a casual belt, tied by the belt] - She adapted the jumper wearable by sailors in the popular seaside town of Deauville (where she opened a new store), And created a female cardigan with expressive belts for every day and pockets, which became a forerunner of the fashion image of 1920. 5 years before it became the norm.

Like Chanel, another designer Zhanna Lanwin, who in this period specialized in clothes for young women, also liked the simplicity of the female shirt, and she began to create summer dresses for their clients who were taken from the restrictive movement of dresses.

The beginning of the First World War in 1914 did not put an end to the international show of Paris collections. But, despite the attempts by the editor of the American magazine Vogue, Edna Vulman Chase organize charity events to help the fashionable French industry, Paris was fully justified by the fact that America, being a competitor of Paris, intends to benefit from the situation in one way or another. If you are lucky to have fashionable French vintage periodicals of that time, such as Les Modes and La Petit Echo De La Mode, please note that they rarely find a mention of war.

Nevertheless, the war went everywhere, and female dresses, as in the 1940s, as needed, became more military.

Clothing has become a reasonable - jackets are strict lines, even warm shorters and pants have acquired special female outlines if women worn who helped in war. In Britain, women joined volunteer medical detachments and consisted in the service of nurses of St. In the US, there was a reserve of the female auxiliary MP, as well as special women's battalions.

Such military groups were intended for women of the highest class, women from the working class in different countries, especially in Germany, worked at military factories. As a result of such a shaking of social classes, when poor and rich, men and women are all together, as never before, has grown such a phenomenon as Emancipation in a female dress.

1915 - 1919. - New silhouette.

It was the time of the figure in the style of "AR Nouveau"

Now the focus in the women's underwear was not made to giving the forms of a female figure, but for her support. Traditional corset turned into a bra, who has now become indispensable for a more physically active woman. The first modern bra appeared thanks to Mary Phelps Jacob, she patented his creation in 1914.

A traditional lifer came to replace the overwhelmed waist, taped with a beautiful wide scarf. Fabrics such as natural silk, flax, cotton and wool were used, artificial silk - sarza, gabardine (wool), organza (silk) and chiffon (cotton, silk or viscose). Thanks to young designers, such as Coco Chanel, such materials like Jersey and Denim began to enter into life.

In 1910 A horizontal look appeared on the design of dresses. Alternatively, vertical capes were used, such as popular kimono jackets from Poire, which were put on top of a set of jacket and skirts of strict lines. The hem of casual clothes was at a level a little higher ankle; Traditional length in the floor at the evening dress began to rise a little since 1910

By 1915, together with the advent of skirt-jelly (known as military crinoline), a reduction in the length of clothes, and, therefore, and the new silhouette began to appear with the appearance of the visible shoes now. The shoes on the lacing and with the heel became a pleasant addition to the models for the winter - beige and white colors joined us to black and brown paints! With the development of hostilities from collections began to disappear evening dresses, as well as tea clothing.

Annette Kellerman - Revolution in Swimwear

The designs of the swimsuits of the Edwardian period led to the overthrow of public morals, when women on the beach began to demonstrate their legs, albeit-destroyed stockings.

If you do not take into account the Australians, especially the Australian Plaschuchi Annette Kellerman, who, in some way, produced a revolution in swimsuits, it should be noted that bathing costumes changed gradually from 1900 to 1920.

Kellerman caused a real stir when, on arrival in the USA, she appeared on the beach in a tightly fitting body of a swimsuit, as a result of which she was arrested in Massachusetts for obscene exposure. The court over it became a turning point in the history of bathing costume, and also helped get rid of outdated norms, as a result of which it was enclosed. She created an image for beauties in swimsuits from Max Sennett, as well as standards for sexy swimsuits from Jantzen, which appeared later.

Birth image Dresses-Charleston

It is difficult to accurately determine when the style of a low waist girl dresses appeared, which became the norm by 1920, the image of the mother and daughter, created by Zhanna Lanwin in 1914, attracts

Look carefully on a small rectangular daughter dress with a low waist, and you will know the image of the Charleston dress, which will be dominated only a few years later!

Black color was standard color during the First World War, and the miniature Coco Chanel decided to take the maximum from him and other neutral paints, as well as from the models of military time clothing, and thanks to the love of Chanel to simplicity and was created a shirt dress with a belt on a low waist. , the models of which were demonstrated in "Harpers Bazaar" in 1916

This her love for more sporting and everyday dresses began to quickly spread from the seaside town of Deauville, where she opened the store, in Paris, London and on. In the publication "Harper's Bazaar" 1917, it was noticed that the name Chanel simply does not come off with the mouth of buyers.

The star of Poire field began to fill up with the onset of war, and when he returned in 1919 with numerous beautiful models in a new silhouette, his name no longer caused such admiration. Accidentally faced with Chanel in Paris in 1920, he asked her:

"Madame, for whom do you wear mourning?" Chanel wore her corporate black colors. She replied: "For you, my dear Poire!"

There is no such designer who would never quit its predecessors. Shipping well forgotten old on a new way - a favorite reception and Jeremy Scott, and Karl Lagerfeld, and Nicolas Jacks. In order to guess the allyusy couturiers from one glance at the silhouette and cut, it is worth dealt with the last century fashion history.

1910 - Paris dictates new style - Ar Deco

To change Belle Epoque (translated from the French - "Beautiful Epoch") with the characteristic silhouette of "Hourglass" comes by Ar Deco. New Canon Beauty - Natural, Unfortunate Forms of Women's Body. Europe is disguised in exotic outfits, inspired by the ballet "Shekhrezada", represented by Dyagilev within the "Russian seasons" in Paris.

Fashion designer: Paul Poire is a fashion reformer, it was he who freed women from corsets and tournuguers, offering loose-free tunic in ancient Greek style, as well as capes, Monto and Sharovari, inspired by the East. Poire introduced exotic and orientalism, cultivating luxury and abundance in clothing: expensive fabrics and a mass of decor - signs of his creations.

Stamps: Dress with an overwhelmed waist, narrowed to the bottom of the skirt, skirt-pants, sharovar, cape-kimono, dress-sari, turban, handbag-hand.

Fabrics and decor: Parcel, silk, velvet, taffeta, oriental ornaments, embroidery with golden threads, precious stones, batik.

Style icons: Aseedor Duncan made a free dress-tunic Poire known to the whole world, appearing in a translucent dress on stage - unheard of audacity. Another fashionable icon of the era - Ida Rubinstein, the Sherryzad ballet star - did not leave the image of the East Beauty and outside the scene, choosing silk kimono for every day.

1920s: Emancipation and Jazz

The emancipated woman and drives the car, and writes novels, and smokes, and famously dancing Charleston in a comfortable straight dress with a low waist - symbol of the era. The modest elegance of Coco Chanel is adjacent to the excesses of the "Jazz era": feathers, boa and fringe. Garcon style (translated from French - "Boy") got along with Ar Deco, is still popular.

Fashion designer: Coco Chanel changed women into men's things and proved that a small black dress, complemented by pearl thread, is an evening version not worse than beaded outfit. For the more feminine direction of fashion, Zhanna Lanven was replied.

Stamps: Dress of cylindrical shape, fur monto, jacket, cardigan, loose sail pants, suit-pajamas for the beach, Cloch hat, rims and hair ribbons with abundant decor.

Fabrics and decor: lace, silk, velvet, wool, book, jersey; Basic colors - black, white, gray, cream, beige; Jewelry from pearls, minimum decor - from Chanel, maximum - the rest (embroidery, feathers, bows, glassware).

Style icons: The actress of a silent movie and the dancer Louise Brooks became famous not only by freedom of morals, but also with love for Cloch hats. Tennis player Suzanna Lengle introduced fashion to sports women's clothing.

1930s: Cold Hollywood Sensuality

The new era resolutely refuses androgyan style dresses hiding sensual bends. Fashion designers proclaim a different silhouette - an underlined waist, from which a flowing long skirt is going. Following athletes, the girls start wearing knitwear. The luxurious decor of the former decade is forgotten - the Great Depression and the feeling of a close war ask completely different moods.

Fashion designer: Elsa Skiaparelli comes up with a sweater dress, a jumper with a print, first uses viscose and zipper. She is the first provocateur and a surrealist from fashion. What is at least a dress with a lobster and parsley or a hat in the form of shoes!

Stamps: Dress in the floor with an underlined line of waist, sweater dress, jumper, tennis pleated skirts, polo dresses, sports pants, silk gloves to elbow, loops, first bathing suits.

Fabrics and decor: Tulle, silk, velvet, wool, knitwear; noble saturated and pastel tones - dark blue, burgundy, pearl; Finishing lace.

Style icons: Women of cold beauty, Hollywood stars - Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo, mounted from screens with perfect and refinement.

1940s: wartime dictates its orders

War begins, and the girls are forced to abandon luxurious complex dresses. There is a clothes in the style of militaries - women's things stitched from the same fabrics as the form of the military. So far, in Europe, the Fashion is constrained by the Second World War, the United States creates its own "from Couture".

Fashion designer: The chief "Trendsetter" of decades is a deficit: tissues, buttons, decorative elements. It is he who defines innovations in the female wardrobe: shortens the length of the skirt, prohibits magnificent ruffles due to a lot of fabric consumption, deprives stocking and studs, and girls have to wear hats and scarves to hide non-disheveled hair.

Stamps: Prtedated jacket with overhead, double-breasted coat, a pencil skirt, blouse with lanterns sleeves, a shirt dress with an emphasis on the waist, a dress in the marine style, a hat with a veil, a belt, brooches, beads.

Fabrics: Dark green, khaki, brown, gray, dark gray, black, blue, white, light yellow, red; wool, cotton, flannel; Cell, print polka dot.

Style icons: Sex symbol of America, Hollywood actress Rita Heivort and PIN-UP models Betty Grab and Betty Page. Images of beauty so loved by American soldiers that they repeated them even on airplanes.

1950s: Flowering Paris Fashion and New Feminine

Paris returns the title of fashionable capital. New Look - a new appearance of a woman proposed by Christian Dior, gains popularity. During the war years, everything is too tired of deprivation! Girls seek to look as much as possible and spend a lot of time and toilets.

Fashion designers: Christian Dior generously spends tissue meters on one magnificent skirt with a high waist (outrageous and delightful luxury!) And again delays women in the corsets. Christobal Balenciaga goes by another way and prefers direct silhouette and architectural experiments with him to dior "buds" and "sand-hour". Coco Chanel returns to the fashion world and presents a tweed jacket with a skirt, and Jumber Zhivanusha creates elegant, aristocratic outfits for their music Audrey Hepburn.

Stamps: A bustier dress in the floor, anted skirt in a fold, short narrow in waist jacket, coat a-silhouette with sleeves three-quarters, gloves, little hat, bag-clutch, shoes with sharp noses, pearls, necklaces.

Fabrics and decor: velor, flannel, wool, silk, atlas, suede; Embroidered flowers, lace, fine pattern in flower, horizontal strip.

Style icons: Marylin Monroe, Grace Kelly, Sophie Lauren, Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn, demonstrating the latest models of the most popular designers, demonstrating the latest models of the most popular designers.

1960s: Riot in fashion and art and sexual revolution

Freedom of morals is a fashionable anthem of the era! In the women's wardrobe there are mini skirts, jeans, a trouser costume, dresses-trapezoids and coats of a-silhouette. Fashion designers after modern artists are experimenting with might and main and create clothing from vinyl and synthetic materials.

Fashion designers: English designer Mary Kuant gave the world to the mini skirt. Andre Kurrzha and Yves Saint-Laurent almost simultaneously presented a short trapezoid dress that became an absolute hit. In addition to high fashion, the couture starts to create the Pret-A-Porter collections.

Stamps: Mini skirt, pants with high waist, jeans, trapezium dress, coat with round gate, peasant style shirt, sundress, boots to knee, bag on a long strap, wide-headed hats.

Fabrics and decor: cotton, denim, knitwear, wool, viscose, strip, cage, polka dot, small patterns; Rugs, bows, collars, lace finish.

Style icons: Brigit Bardo made a sensual image of trendy: it is disheveled with flavored and bright black arrows copied everywhere. Jacqueline Kennedy Mirila Trends and Eternal Classics in his stylish images and served as a sample elegance for thousands of women from around the world.

1970s: youth subcultures choose their heroes

The denim boom covers the world: blue and blue, torn and shabby denim - at the peak of popularity. Following the gains of Hippie's movement, Kuturier turns to folklore and ethnics. Unisex Style Conquers Positions - Men and Women Dress Up the same, simple and comfortable things. Current music dictates your dress code - the disco style occurs. Packaged punk - style of rebellious youth - took into service Vivien Westwood. New fashion centers appear - so, in the first Milan Fashion Week presented their collections from George Armani, Giannie Versace and the Missoni family.

Fashion designer: Yves Saint-Laurent presented fashion female tuxedo, transparent blouse, safari style, abstract prints, African motifs and much more. "Japanese in Paris" Kenzo Takada spoke as an apologist asian sensuality and street style. Sonya Riekel made a slim knitted dress with her business card, and Oscar De La Rent opened the name of the brand in New York.

Stamps: Turtlenecks, shirts, jeans, claw pants, sundresses, knitted sweaters, cardigans, hats, poncho, canvas bags, baubles, overalls.

Fabrics and decor: Lon, cotton, wool, silk, denim, bright colors, colorful ornaments, embroidery, oriental and floral patterns, beading trim.

Style icons: Jane Birkin was empty to the public with candid outfits, for example, a grid dress, rude on a naked body. Model Lauren Hatton demonstrated how to dress in the style of safari in everyday life, and Jerry Hall was a fan-style disco and advised to add glamor to any image.

1980s: The Epoch of Strong Women

Business woman - a new ideal of the era. Designers come up with a whole wardrobe of an independent and successful woman. And then go further, representing defiant sexual outfits, proving what power the so-called weak floor has over men.

Fashion designer: Karl Lagerfeld becomes Creative Director Chanel in 1983 and launches the first line of finished clothes at home. Japanese designers Yoji Yamamoto and Rii Kavakubo declare themselves a completely new direction in fashion - deconstivism that transforms and breaks the usual silhouettes of clothing.

Stamps: Classic arrow pants, jackets and tuxedo with overhead, dresses-cases, dresses and sweaters with bats "bats", leather jackets and raincoats, leggings, bustier tops, mini and midi leather, footwear on the platform, boots.

Fabrics and decor: leather, mohair, velor, velveteen, suede, silk, atlas, viscose; Saturated and neon shades, animal prints, vertical strip.

Style icons: Grace Jones, who did not change the boy's short haircut and leather outfits. Madonna and its aggressive sexy image.

1990s: Minimalism, Theatrical and Street Style

The trendy world is divided into two camps. The first defends the principles of minimalism, which entered the industry with the Jil Sander collection. The second one, with an expletion, follows the crazy experiments of Alexander McCain and Jean-Field Gauthier and supports their couture frenzy. The mass market spreads throughout the world, penetrating even in the USSR - already broken, but still closed. Sporty style, grunge and punk are relevant to youth around the world.

Fashion designers: Mark Jacobs demonstrates a grunge style collection at Fashion Week on behalf of the Perry Ellis brand. John Galliano raises critics with his theatrical show. Kelvin Klein returns androgynost.

Stamps: T-shirts, pullovers, denim jackets, low waist jeans, Denim skirts, sundresses on thin straps, Hoodies and sweatshirts, sneakers and sneakers, coarse shoes.

Fabrics and decor: Cotton, denim, leather, flannel, viscose, chiffon, all colors, prints with logos and names of famous companies.

Style icons: Supermodel Linda Evangelist, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christie Tarlington, Claudia Schiffer and Kate Moss, who became not just faces of the era, but role models for millions.

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Of course, Paris is one of the brightest and most famous capitals of fashion, and even a hundred years ago, he also caused admiration and surprise of the whole world by the courage of design solutions and his exquisite style. If the most interesting thing happens on the podium, then in 1910 it was enough to come on the racetrack so that with my own eyes to see the most fashionable dresses and accessories.

By 1910, the silhouette of a female dress became softer and elegant. After the grand success of the ballet "Shechherzad" in Paris, the cooking passion for eastern culture began. Couturier Paul Poire Paul Poiret) was one of the first to suffer this trend into the fashion world. The PAARE clients were easy to learn about brightly colorful pantals, tuning tuyurban hats and bright dresses in which women resemble exotic geist.

At this time, Art Deco movement was formed, which instantly found their reflection in fashion. Hats made from felt hats, high-turban hats and an abundance of Tulle. At the same time, Jeanne Paquin (Jeanne Paquin) appeared at the same time, which one of the first opened the representative offices of his design abroad in London, Buenos Ayris and Madrid.

One of the most influential fashion designers was at that time Jacques Doucet. His dresses of his design differed from the rest - these were outfits of pastel tones, with a snuff of lace and jewelry, which glistened and blurred in the sun. It was a favorite designer of French actresses that were fed in his dresses not only on scenes of theaters, but in ordinary life.

At the beginning of the twentieth century, dresses with an overwhelmed waist were popular. However, by 1910 tunics on top of a long skirt entered the fashion. This multi-layerness of the outfits was observed in the collection of almost all the couture of that time. Later, in 1914 they became fashionable skirts, strongly narrowed in the ankles. In such outfits, it was quite difficult to move, but fashion, as you know, sometimes requires victims.

As if in a time car, we continue to return to the most significant for the history of the XX century of the XX century decades - and in line 1910-1919. In that era, the European Fashion has succumbed to the tremendous influence of the outside: it is the widespread popularization of sports, and the East expansion, and then the national Russian styles (along with the Russian Seasons, Dyagilev), and, of course, the First World War, which divided the decade for two periods And forced people to take a new way and all the clothing business as a whole.

1910-1913: Sports style and new colors

The main discovery for the history of fashion in the pre-war era was the new color gamma. In 1905, bright multicolored paintings in Paris demonstrate in Paris (Matisse, Deres and others), in 1911, Sergey Dyagilev, in the framework of the Ballet tour "Russian Seasons" puts in London Ballets "Shahryzada" and "Cleopatra" with colorful costumes Leon Bakstatra, Made in oriental style. Orientalism with its live paints and rich decor becomes a new fashion trend of the early 1910s and introduces bright colors of spices and wonder plants instead of pastel shades on the podiums. The legislator of fashion on orientalism was considered the famous French couturier Paul Poire. He became an innovator of this era: Poire got rid of women from corsets, putting forward a new silhouette with straight vertical lines and a high waist. He also simplified the cut dresses, making a silhouette soft and natural, and added a bright color and decor in ethnic style.

At the same time, the first years of the new decade draws inspiration in the 1900s fashion historic. For the ladies from Beau Monde, the daily routine still implies four dressing a day - in the morning, at noon, to tea and evening dinner. The girls are preparing to be binding into this era, collecting dowry in advance. It included at least twelve evening dresses, two or three evening capes, four street dresses, two coats, twelve hats, ten home - "tea" - dresses and dozens of pairs of shoes and stockings.

In 1913, sportswear is added to the already extensive wardrobe. Passion for sports applies to Europe from England, where horse riding and cycling are unusually popular. Ladies start playing golf, crocketh and tennis, skating, horses and outdoor cars instead of horse wagons - all these active classes demanded to get rid of the corset with metal bars and abandon the interlayed lush dresses with long skirts in favor of light dresses with direct, A slightly fitted silhouette and skirt to the ankle.

Lady is allowed to shoot a corset and during traditional in England Five O'Clock: "Tea" Dresses had a lace manica with a high collar, lush sleeves-buffers and freely dropped from the breast a long skirt with a flower pattern and today would remind us of our grandmothers night shirts. But the evening dress code was still strict: the ladies competed in the luxury of their hats, and the silk dresses were sparkled by an expensive decoration of lace, embroidery or fur ...

1914-1919: Militari of the New Time

In August 1914, Germany declares France war. Universal mobilization begins in the country, and Kutyur is moving into the background: the entire light industry is thrown to the needs of the front. From seasonal collections, evening dresses practically disappear (only the United States remains in their main customer in the war), and the ladies have no more need, as before, change out four times a day. The fashion includes dark colors, which used to be used only for outerwear: black, gray, dark blue and khaki.

Women's clothing since 1914 begins to experience the influence of the Militari style: the silhouette of daytime dresses becomes minimalistic, the length of the skirt is shortened to almost the middle of the caviar, and pockets appear on them. The woman's working suit consists of the main Must Have of this era - an elongated fitted jacket with large buttons - and a narrow long skirt of Hobble Skirt, who has become a "grandmother" of the modern skirt pencil. British Burberry and Aquascutum brands in these years earn their name by introducing a military raid in the women's wardrobe - Trencha.

With a change in the skirt length, the role of shoes is becoming increasingly important - in this era, leather shoes with an ankle strap and half boots with buttons or on lacing, but necessarily of the skin of two colors.

It is for the war years a hundredr hundred Coco Chanel accounts for the war: opening his first store in Deauville in 1913, Chanel actively recruits clients. Its simple, but elegant jersey costumes, consisting of a white blouse with a V-shaped collar, a free jumper with a belt and postponed collar (His Coco borrowed from the sailors) and a magnificent skirt length to the middle of the caviar, used incredible popularity and allowed Chanel already in 1916 The year to join the rows of Couturier and demonstrate its first HAUTE Couture collection.

The war gives a colossal impetus for the development of the finished clothing industry - companies that in the war worked for the needs of the front and produced military uniforms, already in peacetime begin to switch to the production of clothing and shoes Prêt-a-porter for daily socks.

This period is characterized by feverish searches for new expressive tools and forms. In the fashion of that time, relevant political problems, the development of social movements, the struggle of women for equality was reflected. The Russian-Japanese war and the flourishing of colonialism led to the emergence of exotic elements in fashion.

New decades' images are built on elements of pre-war fashion. Contrary to the economic crisis, the growth of inflation and the acute shortage of tissues and accessories they are affected by their luxury.

Public events of the 1910-1920 period, which most influenced the development of fashion:
World War II 1914-1918

Silhouettes 1910-20.:

Disappeared:
Corsets.
"Chromium" skirts.
Complex hairstyles.
Big hats.
Embroidery, applique, lace.
Shugged skirts.

Appeared:
Functional details of military clothing: high "aviator racks", overhead pockets, postponed collars (like French).
Suit: an extended skirt with a fastener + baggy jacket with false pockets and a postponed collar or a collar "Aviator Rack".
Military skirt + Militari-style jacket - with abundance of lacing, high shaped collars, strict lapels, metal buttons.

Handmade knitwear, jackets, cardigans, jumpers, scarves, caps.
Casual dresses have reached only before the ICR and are rushed with high shoe shoes.
Peplamas (similar to a small skirt Supplement, previously sewn to male doublet or vest, later to the female liftime, somewhat extensioning clothes below the waist line). Other name: Basket.
Boche-shaped silhouette.
Gaiters, felt hats, cough.
Briefly condensed hair in women.

In the everyday models of high fashion, the effect of military uniform was felt. In elements of pre-war models, elements were preserved in elements:
Turbans with egreats from feathers.
East-style dresses with an overwhelmed waist line (their skirts have become wider and shorter).
"Military Crnolins" - wide skirts in the form of a bell, to sewing a lot of fabrics left. Instead of traditional wrap for chinoline, numerous lower skirts were used here. The price of such a product was quite high despite the low quality material and finishing. "Military crinolines" - manifestation of romantic style, as a result of fatigue from the war.
Skirt "Panya" - wide in the hips, flat front with from behind (Panier-basket in French).
Spanish style (Spain did not fought and all Spanish associated with a peaceful life): High ridges and mantle, tango shoes with membranes and strings, Spanish Flamenco dresses.

Dresses on the manner of those worn in the era of the king Louis XV: a very narrow bodice and a wide skirt with ruffles on the sides that emphasize the thighs line.

In 1909, Chanel began to see the work in the world of fashion, offering women:
Sport dresses from Jersey.
Sweaters.
Blazer.
Pleated skirts to ICR.
Shirt dresses.
English cotton blouses
Suits from knitted canvas.
Pajamas, in which you can descend into bomb shelter.

It was the time of the cult of operetta, which not only was a cheerful entertainment, but also introduced new types of clothing. In addition to operetta and always trendy dramatic theaters, a similar role was performed by a root and a cabaret with famous artists, such as Mustengets in Paris or Lucina Messal in Poland. They introduced not only the Argentine dance tango, but also - with him - a skirt-pants.

It is also worth mentioning the role of ballet in the formation of fashion and new approaches to the design of clothing. Capacan of the past and classic ballet, which turned choreography into graphic signs, in the so-called dance letter, which in the XIX century inspired many artists (Degas, Toulouse-Lotrek, etc.), in the 20th century they moved to the background.

New theories proclaimed that value is not in a skillful design, but in natural, expressive body movements. The embodiment of this new idea was the work of Duncan Ayedor, who had a considerable influence of his time.

The desire for reform and simplification in clothes is brighter than everything in ballet, which was surprisingly strongly influenced by public taste.

The revolution in fashion was caused by tour in Paris of the Russian ballet Dyagilev with the famous dancer of Nizhinsky and Karsavina's ballerina. Costumes for ballet made according to the sketches of Baksta, differed in great originality, as well as the scenery of ballets.

These speeches marked the beginning of theatrical reform and the end of naturalistic drafting. Music Debussy, Ravel, Prokofiev and Stravinsky, Fantastic costumes and new staging of the works of "Shekhrezada", "Fairy of Roses", "Parsley", "Tamara" and others were beautiful lessons that enjoyed in the salons up to the First World War.

Costaologists Bise and radius wrote that 1909, in which the named ballets appeared on the stage, became a significant date in the fashion history. This year entailed an explosion of enthusiasm in the creation of richly embroidered tissues and the use of transparent, smoky, like Muslin, Muslin.

Along with this, the banner of Eastern luxury, the wealth of the Palaces of Sultanov and the Khalifa gardens. Already in 1910, their influence on fashion was noticeable. Ecotic elements appeared not only in the composition of the clothing composition, but also throughout the art of the decor.

Later, in the 20s, the love of decorative tissues arose, which was a certain extension of this influence.

Suit on the project L. Baksta to the ballet "Daphnis and Chloe" in the design of Dyagilev, 1912. Paris model of the dress, inspired by the costumes on the project L. Baksta

New theories proclaimed that value is not in a skillful design, but in natural, expressive body movements.

The embodiment of this new idea was the dance of dancer-sandals Ayedors Duncan, American in origin, which in 1900 at the age of 22 came to Europe and made a coup both in choreographic art and in the theater costume (which used to consist of TUTU, t. e. Pantalon and put on top of them gas skirts, the number of which came sometimes to twenty).

She first danced barefoot, barely dressed in a transparent shirt and shawl. Plastic techniques were drawn in classic sculptures, in images on the ancient Greek and Etruscular amphoras, in reliefs on the front of the temples. In live plastic and rhythm of Aseedor Duncan embodied his concept, hoped in ritual dances Vestnok.

Her dance was sculpture, melody and movement, underlined by the evolution of transparent shawl. This dance has become the basis of the theory of rhythmic dance.

Already initial masterpieces were rewarded with loud glory. Tours from 1900 throughout Europe, at the beginning of its artistic activity exclusively in private houses and palaces, and later on the scenes of theaters, Aseedor Duncan, the execution of classic dances in the ancient robes and the charm of the person instigated the love of antique simplicity.

Her dance influenced the fact that the first suits of the new, strict line introduced by the Poire field had a stylized antique character. The desire for reform and simplification in clothes is brighter than everything in ballet, which was surprisingly strongly influenced by public taste.

The breakdown in the fashion of exotic elements contributed to the acquaintance of Europeans with the folk art of colonial countries, the countries of the near and Far East, which led to a new approach in the ornamentation of tissues and the appearance of various cable, fuular handkerchiefs, kosnock, etc.

Exotic was also reflected in the dances of that time. Brazilian Maxime and Negro Cake-Walk laid the beginning of a number of new dances, which refers ultimately, and tango. Characteristic of the music of these dances was chanting rhythm.

The Argentine Tango, which became fashionable at the time in Europe, was born from exotic dance, largely obliged to with his form of Spaniards.

In the course of its development, the tango has undergone many changes, then received, finally, the usual appearance, so different from the initial one for us.

In the years of which the Tango caused a huge protest of the conservative part of the European society, just as in the XVIII and XIX centuries. Such a protest caused Waltz, who was considered a shameless dance, in the 20s of the 20th century - Charleston, and later - Rock and Roll.

Tango was first only a scenic dance, and the old clothes were not suitable for his execution. For this dance, a special suit in the form of a Turkish type sharovar or draped skirts was invented, in the context of which the legs were visible.

Fashion House Drakol and Beshop in Paris demonstrated in 1911 various models of trummers, for example, the so-called JUPE-Culotte (trousers skirt), which, however, did not in-place. They performed only the dancers, as a result of which the new Tango dance was called the "tank dance".

A minor number of women who dared to seem in these dresses on the street were ridiculous, in connection with which such a suit quickly disappeared.

In accordance with the general fashion line, we also tried to wear trousers, but they did not become taken, because they were against the accepted regulations of public morality.

In 1908-1914. An ideal was a woman with white matte leather, with brown hair, who took part in sessions of spiritualism and shining as an angel. Previously, the infant blush should have disappeared, and women from youth tried to create the impression of experienced and aware.

Pale as a statue and melancholic woman, dressed in transparent gas and Muslin, surrounded himself in the interior with light, pastel, close by tone with flowers, where everything shone from gilding, mirrors and sunlight. She wanted to be loved and waited for an oath to loyalty.

In 1913, noisy performances of Emancipants began in England, seeking to direct the life of women to another path. But most women wanted only to have fun and be loved.

Sport has not yet occupied a significant place in the life of women, but nevertheless, it was during this period that the influence of sports for fashion is quite well to appear, in connection with which the turn to freedom and simplicity.

There were no so many folds and stripes from the pockets, many previously used decorations. Hairstyles have become smoother and lower, the neck, hands and legs were exposed.

Huge changes began to undergo underwear: lower skirts, bodies, shoes, pantalonons and covers.

Tren disappeared, the boots became easier and replaced with various shoes. Women exhausted by the corsets, willingly get rid of terrible pressure in the belt. There was a wide variety of clothing forms.

This and subsequent period, which continued until 1923, is characterized by frequent change of fashion trends caused by the search for new means of expression and convenience.

New forms not only did not emphasize the anatomical structure, as it was in 1901-1907, but also tried, although it looked, to silent it.

In the period between 1908 and 1914, it is possible to distinguish (theoretically) several stages in which various styles influenced the fashion.

The influence of Greek costumes can be traced around 1909, ampir style - circa 1911, Eastern clothes - circa 1913

Dresses based on Greek clothes:
1 - French model, project Poire, 1903;
2 - Polish model, 1911; 3 - English model, 1910

Clothes on oriental reasons:
1 - dress and headdress, project Poire, 1911;
2 - Dress in the style of "narrow fashion", Paris, 1914;
3 - dress with skirt, tightened on the hips, Poland, 1914

Dresses based on ampir style:
1 - Polish model; 2 - French model;
3 - English model.

1911-1914 Brought samples of returning "narrow fashion". The period described was predominantly pseudo-sufficient solutions, and the fashion became increasingly uncertain.

Mode 1911-1914. Characterized the softness of the lines, emphasizing the natural bulge of the silhouette and at the same time attached to her feminine character, according to not so pronounced as before.

Soft, fluttering light fabrics freely fell, giving clothes a specific character, which at the time was defined as Mode Lingerie.

By this period, the rejection of rigid shemetakes fitting the neck is introduced, the neckline is introduced, the nude shoulders (the so-called "nagging fashion". Clean the use of silk lips, strengthened even very thin tissues in the previous period.

There was moderation in the main lines. The former shape of the "bell" and "curves" lines gave way to strict lines, and the silhouette began to be called "cue".

The waist rose highly as in the fashion of the first empire, and wearers of this turn were very wide belts from silk fabric; They were called "Bayader".

Big sleeves disappeared; The sleeve has become a narrow, smoothly engaged below the shoulder, or kimono. Asymmetry was one of the foundations of the overall composition, which found an expression in asymmetric drapes, valves, wedges, fantasy tubes, gaskets, etc.

The effect of Eastern clothes manifested in gaskets, expanding the dress below the hips, and in the use of expensive fabrics, color, transparent, with fabulous ornamentation.

Paris name - Leon Bakst. In 1910, Paris in the Russian Seasons Program, organized by Sergey Dyagilev, saw the ballet "Shekhrezada". Ballet was supplied by the famous Mikhail Fokin, and the scenery and costumes are made according to the sketches of the lion of Bakst. He creates his own, special, bafth style. Paris forgot that Bakst Alien, that he was rooted in Russia. The name Leon Bakst began to sound as the most Paris from all Paris names. It began to imitate it, his ideas were varying to infinity. The artist in Dyagilev ballet was a full partner of the director and balletmaster. So, Bakst worked closely with the famous Fokin, and then with an equally famous Nizhinsky during the production of Stravinsky ballets. His principles of pictorial design were unconditionally accepted by critics. Bakst draws out performances not only in Paris, but also in London, and in Rome.

The legislators of the Parisian fashion began to promote the "Baksta style". They were treated with orders for suits. It extremely fascinated by the artist, and he creates a series of magnificent costumes, as well as fabric drawings. "... Bakst managed to grab that the elusive nerve of Paris, who rules the fashion, and his influence is true everywhere in Paris - both in the ladies and picture shows," wrote M.Volinshin in 1911.

Paul Poare began to work with Doss and Wort, and in 1903 opened his fashion house.

Poire created a powerful fashion empire. Nowadays, fashionable houses produce different products under one brand, but then it was sharply different from generally accepted norms.

The silhouette created by them freed women from the corset: a falling skirt that does not reach the floor, the overestimated line of the waist. It went wrong with the rules of decency. But only two years passed and this innovation was accepted. In 1909, Sergey Dyagilev "brings" Russian art to Europe, including ballet. Thanks to the first Paris season of the Russian ballet, France has opened the charm of the East. In the ballet "Cleopatra" the riot of paints dominated: a combination of purple and emerald, pink with yellow and black. This cultural event influenced the creativity of the Poire field: he included Eastern motives in his collections and began to create clothes in new colors on a new silhouette - sharovars, turbans, bright colors and ornaments: pink, golden, canary-yellow, poisonous green, and azure blue. Never before the clothes were not so colorful. It was more than exotic. Paul Poire won the public.

Paul invented a tunic-lamp-lamp-shade - a tunical apparel about the knee. Another one of its invention is the "lame" skirt - she narrowed below the knee. It was possible to walk in it only in small margins, so she got such a name.

Poire successfully resumed the fashion for a combination of sharovar and skirts, sharovar and tunic.

Inspiration and the Muse of the Poire field was his wife Denis.

With a field, Poire worked two best illustrator - Paul IRIB and Georges Lepad, which embodied the Poire model in the illustrations.

In 1911, Papa Poire released the first design perfume "Rosina" (named Elder Daughter). All from beginning to end: creating a flavor, a bottle design, packaging, advertising, distribution - was invented and carried out by the designer himself. This meant the invasion of a new market, which at that time was a monopoly of French perfumes. Papara, along with Raul Dufi, actively work on the creation of tissues. Paul Poire said as he said: "Couturier, like the fabric, owns many languages \u200b\u200bwith one goal - to fight feminine beauty." Paul Poare was a passionate fan of contemporary art and closely communicated with such geniuses of the 20th century as artists Henry Matisse and Pablo Picasso, the poet Jean Cocteau. Papa Poare was a patron. In 1911, he opens in Paris Atelier "Martin" (named the youngest daughter). There girls from poor families taught not only to sew, embroider, but also art history, drawing.

Paul Poire became a legend in his life. Understanding the connection of fashion and advertising, the organization of holidays and performances. He was more than just a couture. Poire became the founder of the modern concept of "Fashion as a lifestyle". He practically invented and used marketing and PR strategies (Public Relation), which have now become common practice and norm. His houses, salons, holidays that he organized became a stunning performance and spectacle, where his works - dresses played a major role. One example: For advertising his fashion house, he hired a mannequin, dressed them in his outfits and drove them in Europe and to Russia. All this was accompanied by loud articles in the press and photo reports.

Art Deco style. Erte (Erte Nag. Surname and Name Tyrtov Roman Petrovich 1892 - 1990) - Russian artist, representative of Modern, Graphic design, and famous fashion designer. Refusing the traditional career for the family, settled in 1912 in Paris, becoming a correspondent of the Pyterburg magazine "Damed Fashion". I did not receive a systematic art education, I visited the Academy of R. Zhülen for a short time. Compiled by the alias "Ertte" from the first letters of the name and surname. He lived in Paris and Monte Carlo.
Art Deco style - cut from the name of the exhibition "L" Exposition International des Arts Decoratifs et Lndu-Striels Modernes "-" International Exhibition of Contemporary Decorative and Industrial Arts ", held in 1925 in Paris) - Artistic style of interior design, decorative and applied products Arts, jewelry, clothing modeling, as well as industrial design and applied graphics.

Coco Chanel - With the help of Cepel in 1910, Coco opened his first boutique in Paris - the famous salon on Ryu Cambon, and after three years - the first branch in Deauville. Soon she had a real house of models on a fashionable resort of Biarritz. What was the secret of such success? Before Chanel, women were buried under the kilometers of fabrics and laces: narrow skirts, huge tournies, loops, dust, and giant hats, more similar to cakes. Shannel itself did not fit the dresses, emphasizing the mouth of the waist and a lush bust, - she had nothing to emphasize. In addition, such toilets were skipped movement. She offered women brand new, unprecedented outfits, often borrowed from the male wardrobe. For example, a sailorka with a deep neckline and a wide postponed collar or a leather jacket on Jockey's manner. She always inspired what she liked her personally and was comfortable. It was a real revolution. Chanel created the fashion anew, not believing with what is accepted, and what is not.

"Men's" women's clothing - the end of the 1910s

"Once I put a male sweater, just like that, because I got cold ... tied it with a handkerchief (on the waist). That day I was with the British. None of them noticed that there was a sweater on me ... "So a new female fashion appeared - flannel blazers, a cassette skirts, a long sweaters from Jersey, sailors and a famous suit (skirt + jacket).

"Crested in a corset, the chest outwards, put the ass, so climbing in the waist, as if it was cut into two parts ... to keep such a woman - the same thing that I knew the property to manage real estate about what he was talking about. Working, independent, active women simply could not walk in corsets and swans.

Rules of a small black dress from Chanel:
- The dress must necessarily close the knees.
- There should be no decorated details on the dress: Ruffle, embroidery, lace
- necessarily clear focus cut on the waist
- Shoes - closed boats (not sandals!)
- no big decorations
- small ladies bag

1914 - First World War

Describing the fashion 1915-1923, we can safely say that it was a continuation of the search for new means of expression required at such a quickly replacing each other forms. The main line of the fashion of these years was a kind of freedom ("accusion") and fantasy. Freely hung on the shoulders of the blouses, their basks and wide belts did not make it easier for the mill. There were short and wide sleeves, sometimes fantastic outlines, elongated in front, resembling gothic. Swiss turns of skirts and attached to them aprons, loops, shawls, shawls, etc.

The spaciousness in clothing, which in 1922 reached the highest point, masked the natural outline of the figure. The woman of that time "hung over" dress. This effect was intensified by using soft tissues whose plastic properties caused the creation of soft, blurry forms. All this was a complex resistance to rigid and refined forms of clothing of the beginning of the XX century.

This period brought the woman important achievements in the struggle for equality and in connection with this new conquest in the field of clothing reform. The reason for this was the First World War, which played a much more significant role in the struggle for women's equality than all previous efforts of Emancipat. Left alone, women were forced to bear all the responsibility for themselves and the family; They took the place of men in the industry, in offices, hospitals, etc., felt confidence in their physical strength and intellectual value.

During World War II, women began to lead a male lifestyle, became conductor in trams, freight forwarders, and some even got into the utility military services and put on the corresponding uniforms. For example, natives and American field mail workers went to sports shirts from khaki fabric and in caps. With the beginning of the war, the modes of the mod were closed, and women themselves more or less skillfully sent a fashion movement, freeing from many ridiculous fantasies that were imposed on how the canons of fashion. Unnecessary decorations were discarded, and clothing was designed in such a way as to provide the necessary amenities in the work. Casual clothes in the style of reform gained popularity and was so firmly, that the tailors, returning in 1917 to their work and wishing to have a dominant role in approving fashion, should have taken this clothes, and attempts to the new introduction of Krnolin or a "narrow fashion" were injured defeat. At the same time, trenches, rigid corsets and excess decorations disappeared.

The army, not only European, but also colonial, also had a great effect on fashion. She brought the atmosphere of distant countries and exotic excellent native art. Patterned decorative fabrics from Morocco and Tunisia, beautiful shawls, shawls and other exotic items, who fascinated Europe appeared. The fashion immediately absorbed new elements of Croy and decorating Chinese, Arab and Indian costumes.

It may seem paradoxically the fact that, along with the appearance of simple, practical, rational clothes, the love of the abundance of patterns, lace, appliques, knitting, beads, etc. has increased again, protested against the simple cut and began to introduce fantastic supplements to the dresses of simple, forms. From the magazine article of that time: "... Dresses of a simple cut and without jewelry caused displeasure from the ladies. They tried to influence artists who create models, in order to introduce finishes even in excessive quantities. It has not been seen of the dresses so embroidered with pearls Merges, decorated with collected ribbons, appliques from cloth embroidered with a thick wire and a huge amount of thin ribbon, which formed complex patterns on the bottom and on the sleeves of woolen dresses and even covered the entire plane ... ". A few years after the start of the war, despite the struggle lasted on the front, life in the rear came to normal; Ballas and Rauta began to be given again.

Theaters-Review, taking faster than all and bold all new forms of clothing, became in the forefront of fashion. Large disagreements appeared in the roar of the need for a fantastic framework of plastics designed by the most famous decorators and tailors under the influence of Russian ballet and solved everything in the contrast of black and rich colors. In 1921, Poire developed a scenography and costumes for the Casino de Paris Review, operating in the main black and yellow. This fact led to the writing penetration of black in the toilets of women. In Paris, a special white-black ball was established, which caused the stormy tull protests. As a rule, figurative costumes of the actors had an impact on the approval in the life of certain forms of clothing, but the attempt to resurrect the fashion of ostrich feathers, which all costumes were revived, failed. But the fashion of the Spanish shawl was given to the Argentine dancer Isabelle Ruis, who changed Shawl in every dance.

Changes in fashion happened gradually. During the war, they wore costumes everywhere. In the forms of jacket, the influence of military uniform, and wide skirts, in a fold or curved, opened shoes to the top of the top. Moderate a narrow sleeve was fastened to the cuff, waist, a somewhat lowered first, returned to his place. Hats were medium size. In 1917, the costumes moved to the background, the women had reached their pre-war dresses and had returned to the fashion of the pre-war years for a while. Attempts have arisen to lengthen the dresses and even wrinkle legs, but it did not quiet. Skirts that became narrower and long, rounded the hips and exercised the book. Silhouette resembled spindle. The waist was indicated high. In the dresses and coats did a lot of assemblies.

J. Lanun offered his clothes-shirts to its customers.
In 1917-1918, a new silhouette appears with two waist lines: overpriced and understated, on hips.

In 1918, the dresses were shortened again and expanded due to the ruffles, which were turned on across skirts. The extension was provided by soft free belts and assembly basks, as well as tunics that were shorter and wider than skirts (see Fig.).

"Cute girl".

"Self-conceived mother."

"Exotic Woman Vamp".

Three completely different ideal images.

In 1900, the use of makeup was already widespread. However, it was applied so that the result would look as natural as possible. At this time, the pink powder of Helena Rubinstein came out more by way, since before the face covered with white powder looked too artificially. At the same time, her American competitor Elizabeth Arden opened his first salon, and soon two queens of cosmetics began to fight for clients, releasing all new and new products. They recommended that women regularly visit cosmetic salons. We started with deep cleaning of the skin with a couple - quite the same way as today.

During the war, it became not taken to spend time and money on cosmetics. A little bit of lipstick on the lips, a droplet of brilliant petroleum in the eyelids - that's all. Hair, which before it was curved in flirty curls of A la Mary Picford, began to divide a clear probor. Men on the front should have known that their women were abandoned from all coquetry, keep modestly and cardio, like Lilian Diana Gish.

Photo: "Cute Girl" Lilian Diana Gish fully corresponded to the tastes of that time. The star of a silent movie, which never found herself in the sound of a movie, performed on stage from five years.

Sell \u200b\u200bcosmetics with these selfless women was not so easy. Therefore, most cosmetics have declared health benefits.

Vaseline, with the help of which gave glitter with lips and centuries, was considered to be ointment; At the same time, most women did not realize, however, as well as today, that the matter is in the issue of sales of goods. Since what is relevant to medicine should not look frivolous, women were more likely to resort to a cosmetic operation than to use cosmetics. The usual was the operation to smooth wrinkles by injection under the skin of the paraffin.

Photo: Teda Bar - an exotic beauty with a draft glance and a small mouth in the form of a heart was considered the embodiment of sins and imagined the hidden fantasies of Saforna America in the images of Salome, Madame Dubarry and Cleopatra.

After the war with a virtue, it was finished - all wanted to look mysterious and fatal.

Photo: Gloria Svenson Angel and Devil in one face. The image of an exotic woman vamp. His ideal embodiment was called Gloria Svenson (1899-1983), which, on the one hand, held as a secular lady, and on the other hand, without constrained, appeared in erotic outfits, such as satin underwear, silk kimono and luxurious fur. She played in scandalous and risky roles, the theme of which was treason, the fores of the threesome and sexy breaking of a woman. And she did all this with great elegance.

Hair cut under the boy, the eyes were led by a pencil for eyebrows, the lips were painted very brightly, and the exoticity of accessories did not know the borders, which in 1910 called Poire with his harem style.

From 1914 to 1918, women and men had only one ideal: a dedicated sister of mercy. This concerned first of all sisters from the Red Cross, whose uniform was developed by Kuturier Radfern. The admiration of a disinterested service came so far that the secular ladies perpetuated themselves in the guise of a nun or sisters of mercy and sent these photos to their husbands to the front.

Photo: Ida Rubinstein - Sister of Mercy at the Paris Hospital during the First World War.

Style: ART NOUVEAU, ART DECO
Designers: Coco Chanel (Beginning), Jeanne Paquin, Jeanne Lanvin, Léon Bakst, Jacques Doucet
Illustrators: George Barbier, George Lepape
Music: Tango, Waltz Boston, Ragtime, Jazz (Beginning)
Art: Ballets Russes, Fauvism, Cubism, Dadoism, Futurism.