Automation for borehole pumps: the principle of operation and the selection criteria. Remote Control of Pump Remote Control Water Supply from the Well

Many owners of country houses try to equip them so that the accommodation is no less comfortable than in the usual apartment and was centralized heating and water supply. And if you want to establish the work of all autonomous systems yourself, then you need to prepare for a long and hard work. And even when the water supply system is installed, you need to make it so that it works in automatic mode at the operation level of the pump system.

Today we will tell about how to create automation for deep pumps.

Features of modern immersion pumps

Before you begin the creation of automation for the submersible pump, you first need to understand what kind of types of pumps are.

Submersible pumps are divided into two categories:

vibration;
centrifugal.

Each of them having an automatic control unit, put in the fluid itselfwhich will pump. Even the name itself suggests that the pump works on the principle of immersion in the liquid.

The submersible and surface type pumps have the same specificity, but they have different mechanism, and the conditions of use are also different.

For example, submersible type pumps can be applied on deep wells.where with their help should increase the water pressure so that it can pump up. However, the maximum depth of application of submersible pumps is only 10 meters. Professional systems are used for deeper wells. It is worth adding that the surface pumps cannot provide water pumping from deep wells.

Vibrating models are more popularthan centrifugal. They are used in water wells, but centrifugal is more suitable for use in the agricultural sector. The principle of operation of the vibration pump is:

the key element of the design is a membrane;
it is deformed by the influence of the vibration mechanism;
this leads to a difference in pressure, as a result, water is pumped in the right direction.

According to this principle, the most popular models in our country are:

"Garden";
"Kid";
"Aquarius".

When buying a submersible pump, you need to clarify whether it is equipped with the so-called thermal switch. Also, do not forget to check whether it has the ability to take water with its lower part.

If you work in conditions where the ground is heavy, then you need to install a vibration device down, so that when the well pump does not collapse and it was not contaminated by foreign bodies from the soil. Vibration models need to be put exclusively in fortified wells to avoid problems. And to dismantle the submersible device in terms of immersion in IL, it follows only during operation.

The models listed above are convenient both in terms of installation and dismantling, and the other can be performed independently.

In centrifugal devices the working mechanism consists of several wheelsconnected to one shaft. When rotating the wheels, the blades produce the difference in the difference, so that the water is pumped in the desired direction.

The popularity of centrifugal pumps in our country is due to such factors:

versatility of use;
the ability to connect with your own hands;
saving with the arrangement of the water supply system in the country area.

Automation for deep pumps and its types

Automation for submersible devices is divided into three categories:

automatic control unit in the form of a console;
pressectrol;
control unit equipped with a stable water pressure support mechanism in the system.

The first option is the easiest control unit in the form of a standard console. This block protects the pump from voltage drops, as well as short circuits that often accompany the operation of pumping devices. To ensure full automatic device mode, the control unit of this species connects to such devices as:

pressure switch;
level relay;
float switch.

The average cost of such a control unit is about 4000 rubles, but remember that this control device will not work without additional devices., in particular, the same pressure relay or additional protection of the device from dry stroke.

Of course, some models of such control blocks are already equipped with all the necessary systems for full-fledged work, but their cost will be already about 10 thousand rubles. Install such a control device can be independently without a consultation with a professional.

Press control

The following option of the automatic control device is a press control. He is equipped built-in systems for automatic pump operation And passively protects from dry stroke. Control in this case is determined depending on the orientation to some parameters, in particular, the level of pressure and flow of water. For example, if its consumption in the device is more than 50 liters per minute, it will work continuously. And if the flow of water is reduced or increased pressure, the press control turns off the pump, and this will be protected from dry pump.

If the liquid in the system does not reach the mark of 50 liters per minute, then the device starts with a pressure reduction to 1.5 atmospheresThis is very important under conditions when the pressure is sharply rising and the number of switching on-shutdowns should be reduced. It also provides for automatic turning off the device under conditions of a sharp and powerful increase in water pressure.

The most common press control devices on the market for control:

BRIO-2000M (cost - up to 4 thousand rubles);
"Aquarius" (4-10 thousand rubles).

The cost of the backup hydroaccumulator for both devices is most often hesitated within 4 thousand rubles. And remember that by purchasing a block of controlling this type, it will be more complicated independently than the previous one.

Pressure Support Block

The last version of automation for submersible pumps is a control unit that includes a mechanism. supporting stable water pressure throughout the system. Such a mechanism is indispensable in those places where it is impossible to sharply increase pressure, because if it is constantly increased, it will increase the consumption of electricity and reduce the efficiency of the pump itself.

All this is achieved by rotating the rotor of the control unit of the control unit, but the regulation of the rotational speed occurs in automatic mode. The most famous models of such control blocks:

"Aquarius";
Grundfos.

It is worth noting that the brand "Aquarius" - the most popular in Russia and near abroad on the market of control blocks for pumps. The devices of this brand attract buyers for such reasons:

relatively affordable price;
good quality blocks;
easy installation.

The cost of different models can differ significantly, naturally, devices equipped with subsystems and additional functionality will cost much cheaper than ordinary.

What you need to know when installing automation for the pump

If you purchased automation for the device and found out that the selected control unit is easy to put without the help of specialists, do not rush to install it. First make sure is it equipped with an electronic set, Or you need to buy it additionally. So, if you have a vibration pump system, then it will be necessary to buy additional equipment in addition to automatics, but for centrifugal pumps it will be enough to put a tank with electrical contacts.

Also while working with the immersion pump remember that he will work properly only in clean water. If the water contains solid impurities, they will fall into the blades, and this can provoke a breakdown of the pump engine.

Now you have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat is appliances for automatic control for submersible pumps and, you know what they differ from each other and how to choose them.

This post is the first part of a series of stories about how it can be relatively easy to make a radio-controlled payroll of the payload.
The post is focused on newcomers, for the rest, I think it will be a "repetition passed."

Sample plan (let's see in the course of action) is expected as follows:

Hardware Switch

Immediately make a reservation that the project is done under my specific needs, everyone can adapt it to itself (all sources will be presented along the narration). Additionally, I will describe certain technological solutions and give their justifications.

Start

Currently there are the following introductory:

I want to realize remote control of light and exhaust.
Switches are single and two-section (light and light + extract).
Switches are set in plasterboard wall.
All wiring is a three-wire (phase, zero, protective ground).

With the first point - everything is clear: normal desires must be satisfied.

The second point in general suggests that it would be necessary to make two different schemes (for single and two-channel switches), but we will do otherwise - we will make a "dual-channel" module, but in the case when only one channel is really required - we will not unpack Part of the components on the board (the similar approach is implemented in the code).

The third item - causes some flexibility in choosing a switch form factor (the existing switch is actually removed, the mounting box is dismantled, the finished device is mounted inside the wall, the mounting box is returned and the switch back is mounted).

The fourth item - significantly facilitates the search for the power source (220V is "at hand").

Principles and element base

The switch wants to make multifunctional - i.e. There should be a "tactile" component (the switch physically remains to remain and its usual function should be saved to turn on / off load, but it should be possible to control the load through the radio channel.

For this, the usual two-position (on-off) switches will be replaced by the design switches without fixing (buttons):

These switches work primitively simple: when the key is pressed - the pair of contacts are closed when the key is released - contacts are blocked. Obviously, this is the usual "clock button" (actually so we will process).

Now practically becomes clear how to implement "in the gland":

we take MK (atmega8, atmega168, atmega328 - I use what is "right now"), complete with MK add a resistor to suspend the RESET to VCC,
we connect two "buttons" (to minimize the number of attached elements - we will use the suturing resistors built into the MK), use the relay with suitable parameters to switch the load (I just got the following relay 833H-1C-C with 5V control and sufficient switched load. - 7a 250V ~),
naturally, the relay winding cannot be directly connected to the MK output (too high current), so we will add the necessary "strapping" (resistor, transistor and diode).

The microcontroller will be used in operation from the built-in oscillator - this will refuse an external quartz resonator and a pair of capacitors (slightly saved and simplify the creation of the board and subsequent installation).

We will organize the radio channel using NRF24L01 +:

The module is known tolerant to 5V signals at the inputs, but requires for power to 3.3B, respectively, in the scheme will add another L78L33 linear stabilizer and a pair of capacitors to it.

Additionally add blocking capacitors for the MK power supply.

MK will be programmed via ISP - for this, we will approve the corresponding connector on the module board.

Actually, the whole scheme describeIt remains only to decide on the conclusions of the MK, which will connect our "periphery" (radio module, "buttons" and select Pins to control the relay).

Let's start with things that are already actually defined:

The radio module is connected to the SPI bus (thus we connect the pins of the blocks from 1 to 8 on GND, 3V3, D10 (CE), D9 (CSN), D13 (SCK), D11 (MOSI), D12 (MISO), D2 (IRQ) - respectively).
ISP is a standard thing and connects as follows: connect the pins of the connector C 1 to 6 to D12 (MISO), VCC, D13 (SCK), D11 (MOSI), RESET, GND, respectively).

Then it remains to decide only with Pins for buttons and transistors, controlling relays. But we will not rush - for this any MK Pins (both digital and analog) are suitable. Select them at the board tracing (Primaryly choose those pins that will most simply dissolve to the corresponding "points").

Now it is necessary to determine which "hulls" will use. In this place, my natural laziness starts to dictate: I really do not like to drill printed circuit boards - therefore, choose the maximum "surface mount" (SMD). On the other hand, common sense suggests that the use of SMD will significantly save the size of the printed circuit board.

For beginners, surface assembly will seem quite complex theme, but it is really not so scary (though, if there is a more or less decent soldering station with a hairdryer). YouTube has a lot of video clips with lessons on SMD - I highly recommend familiarizing yourself (I myself began using SMD a couple of months ago, I studied just for such materials).

We form a "Shopping List" (BOM - Bill of Materials) for a "two-channel" module:

microcontroller - ATMEGA168 in the TQFP32 case - 1 pc.
transistor - MMBT2222ALT1 in SOT23 housing - 2 pcs.
diode - 1N4148WS in Sod323 housing - 2 pcs.
stabilizer - L78L33 in SOT89 housing - 1 pc.
relay - 833H-1C-C - 2 pcs.
resistor - 10Kom, size 0805 - 1 pc. (RESET Tightening to VCC)
resistor - 1kom, size 0805 - 1 pc. (in the transistor base chain)
condenser - 0.1MKF, size 0805 - 2 pcs. (powered)
condenser - 0.33MKF, size 0805 - 1 pc. (powered)
electrolytic condenser - 47MKF, size 0605 - 1 pc. (powered)

In addition, terminals will be required to this (for connecting the power load), 2x4 shoe (for connecting a radio module), 2x3 connector (for ISP).

Here I am a little cunning and peeping into my "stoppers" (I just choose what is already available there). You can choose components at your discretion (the choice of specific components goes beyond this post).

Since the entire scheme is already practically "formed" (at least in the head), you can proceed to the design of our module.

In general, it would be nice to first collect on the layout (using the housings with output elements), but since I have all the "nodes" described above have been repeatedly checked and embodied in other projects - allow yourself to skip the stage of missing.

Design

To do this, we use the wonderful program - Eagle.

In my opinion - is very simple, but at the same time - a very convenient program for creating schematic diagrams and printed circuit boards. Additional "pluses" in Eagle's piggy bank: multiplatform (I have to work both on Win- and on MAC computers) and the availability of a free version (with some restrictions that for most "self-delicacies" will seem completely insignificant).

To teach you to use Eagle in this topic not included in my plans (at the end of the article there is a link to a wonderful and very simple to master the Eagle textbook), I will only tell you some of my "tricks" when creating a board.

My algorithm for creating a scheme and board was approximately the following (key sequence):

Scheme:

Create a new project, inside which we add a "schema" (empty file).
We add the MK and the necessary "drill" (pull-up resistor on the reset, the blocking capacitor for power supply, etc.). We pay attention to the housing (Package) when selecting elements from the library.
"We depict" the key on the transistor that runs the relay. Copy this piece of the circuit (for the organization of the "second channel"). Keys inputs - while we leave to "hang out in the air."
Add an ISP connector to the diagram and a block for fueling a radio module (we make the appropriate compounds in the scheme).
To power the radio module, add a stabilizer to the scheme (with appropriate capacitors).
Add "connectors" to connect the "buttons" (one pin of the connector immediately "ground", the second - "dangles in the air").

After these actions, we obtain a complete scheme, but still remain unconnected transistor keys and "buttons".

We place terminals for connecting the power load.
The right of the terminalnikov - relays.
Even the right - elements of transistor keys.
Power stabilizer for a radio module (with appropriate capacitors) accommodate next to transistor keys (at the bottom of the board).
I place a block for connecting a radio module from the bottom to the right (we draw attention to the fact that the radio module itself is in terms of a policy connection to this block - according to my idea, it should not act beyond the main board).
ISP connector posting next to a radio module connector (as the same "Pins" MK are used - to make it easier to breed a fee).
In the remaining space, I have a MK (the case must be "twist" to determine the most optimal position to ensure the minimum length of the tracks).
Blocking capacitors are placed as close as possible to the appropriate conclusions (MK and radio modulus).

After the elements are placed in their places - I make the trace of conductors. "Earth" (GND) is not laughing (later I will make a polygon for this chain).

Now you can already decide on the connection of keys and buttons (I look at which Pins closer to the appropriate chains and which will be easier to connect on the board), for this well before your eyes have the following picture:

The location of the MK chip on the board, I just correspond to the picture above (only turn on 45 degrees clockwise), so my choice is as follows:

Transistor keys we connect to Pins D3, D4.
Buttons - on A1, A0.

The attentive reader will see that the ATMEGA8 appears in the scheme below, the description is mentioned atmega168, and in the picture with chip - in general AMEGA328. Let it not confuse you - the chips have the same pinout and (specifically for this project) are interchangeable and differ only in the number of memory "on board". We choose what I like / is available (I subsequently searched 168 "pebbles": a bigger memory than Amega8 - it will be possible to implement more logic, but about it in the second part).

Actually, at this stage, the scheme takes the final view (we do the corresponding changes in the schema - "connect" keys and buttons to selected pins):

After that, I'm already completing the latest connections in the printing board project, "throwing" the GND polygons (since the laser printer does not print solid polygons, I make it a "mesh"), add a couple of transitions (VIA) from one layer of board to another and check that There is no non-divorced chain.

I got a 56x35mm handker.

Archive with a circuit and board for Eagle version 6.1.0 (and above) is on the link.

Voila, you can proceed to manufacture PCB.

Production of printed circuit board

I make a board with a LUT (laser-iron technology). At the end of the post there is a link to the materials that helped me very much.

I will give for order basic fees for the manufacture of the board:

Print on paper Lomond 130 (glossy) bottom side of the board.
We print on the same paper the upper side of the board (mirror!).
We fold the obtained printouts with images inside and on the lumen we combine (it is very important to get the maximum accuracy).
After that, the stapler fastens the paper sheets (constantly controlling so that the alignment is not broken) from three sides - the "envelope" is obtained.
I cut the appropriate size a piece of double-sided fiberglass (scissors for metal or handwheel).
The glasskestolitol needs to be treated with very shallow skin (we remove the oxides) and degrease (I do it with acetone).
The resulting workpiece (neatly, by the edges, not a touch of purified surfaces) I put in the resulting "envelope".
Heat the Iron "on the complete" and thoroughly ironing the workpiece on both sides.
I leave the board to cool (5 minutes), then you can brush the paper under the jet of water and delete it.

After it seems that all paper is removed - I wash the board dry and under the light of the desktop lamp I consider on the subject of defects. Usually there are several places where the pieces of the glossy paper layer remained (they look like white spots) - usually these residues are in the most narrow places between the conductors. I remove them with an ordinary sewing needle (a solid hand is important, especially in the manufacture of cards under the "small" housings).

Toner wash off acetone.

Council: When you make small boards, make the workpiece under the desired number of boards, simply placing the image of the upper and lower part of the board in several copies - and already this "combined" image "roll" to the billet from the fiberglass. After etching, it will be enough to cut the workpiece into separate fees.
Only before Check the sizes of boards when entering paper: Some programs love "a little bit" to change the scale of the image at the output, and this is unacceptable.

Quality control

After that, I make visual control (good lighting and magnifier is required). If there are some suspicions that there is a "dull" - control by the tester of "suspicious" places.

For complacency - control tester all Neighboring conductors (it is convenient to use the "Correspondence" mode when the tester gives a beep when "short circuit").

If still somewhere discovered unnecessary contact - I fix it with a sharp knife. Additionally, I draw attention to possible "microcracks" (so far I just fix them - I will correct in the layout of the board).

Lunetration, drilling

I prefer a fee before drilling to post - so soft solder allows you to smother easier to drill and drill on the "output" from the board less "River" copper conductors.

First, the manufactured printed circuit board must be deguted (acetone or alcohol), you can "go through" an eraser to remove the appears. After that, I cover the board with ordinary glycerin and then the soldering iron (the temperature is about 300 degrees) with a small number of solder "I drive" along the tracks - the solder lies smoothly and beautifully (glitter). It is necessary to brow enough quickly that the tracks are not treated.

When everything is ready - I launder a fee with ordinary liquid soap.

After that, you can already drill a fee.
With the holes with a diameter of more than 1 mm, everything is quite simple (just drill and everything is necessary only to try to observe, then the outlet will fall into the place allotted).

But with the transition holes (I make them a 0.6mm drill) somewhat more complicated - the outlet, as a rule, it turns out a little "ribbon" and this can lead to an unwanted rupture of the conductor.
Here you can advise to make each hole in two passages: to sew first on the one hand (but so that the drill does not come out on the other side of the board), and then - similarly on the other side. With this approach, the "compound" of the holes will occur in the thickness of the board (and small inconsistency will not be a problem).

Installation of elements

First disarm interlayer jumpers.
Where there are simply transition holes - just insert a piece of copper wire and searched it on both sides.
If the "transition" is carried out through one of the holes for output elements (connectors, relays, etc.): I dissolve the stranded wire on thin veins and gently searched pieces of this vein on both sides in those holes where the transition is needed, while the minimum occupying Space inside the hole. This allows you to implement the transition and holes remain fairly free to ensure that the corresponding connectors normally get into place and have been scrupla.

Here again, it should be back to the "Quality Quality" stage - I call the tester all suspicious previously received during the mezzani / drilling / creation of new places.
I check that the previously discovered microcracks are eliminated by the solder (or by eliminating the soldering thin conductor over the crack, if the crack remains after the fox).

Eliminating all the "snaps", if such still appeared in the process of tinning. it much easier To do now than in the debug process already fully assembled.

Now you can proceed directly to the installation of elements.

My principle: "Bottom up" (first I pull the least high components, then those that "higher" and those that "high"). This approach allows you to place all items on the board with less inconvenience.

Thus, the SMD components first open (I begin with those elements that "more legs" - MK, transistors, diodes, resistors, capacitors), then it comes to the output components - connectors, relays, etc.

Thus, we get ready for a fee.

To be continued ...

P.S. The "two-channel" module can be used to replace the "pass-through" switches (usually put at the beginning and end of the stairs between the floors, etc. places).

P.P.S. If you use more flat pushbutton switches, then with a small refinement you can make boards that fit into existing mounting boxes (that is, not only for placing plasterboard walls in niches).

In order for the well to be a high-quality source of water uses specific equipment. It allows not only to pump water, but also deliver it to the house or any other business building on the site.
Automation for the well at the moment has a huge selection.

Storage arrangement using equipment

The well will not give water by itself, it is necessary to make some events.
Consider a Read more:

The depth on which water is rather large in the well and can reach 200 m.
Water from it can only come with a powerful pumping equipment.
At the moment there are two types of pumps.
It is also worth paying attention to the cleanliness of the source.
For water purification, filter equipment is used.

Note. It is worth considering the water level in the well, which is monitored using special sensors. They are installed on the walls of the structure using special devices. The method of their attachment depends on the internal arrangement of the well.

Pumps for well pumps

Automatic feed is carried out using a powerful pump.
He can be:

Superficial.
Deep.
Vibration.
Centrifugal.

Note. The power of such equipment is different and selected depending on the depth of the source and its contamination.

Council. More powerful should be selected by the artist of art school. It is determined by the fact that the depth of the well reaches 500 m and it is used for industrial production, which means the debit of the source should be at a high level.

How it works:

The pump is selected depending on its power.
It is measured in cubic meters of water supply in one hour.
At the moment, all pumps that are produced by modern manufacturers can increase their power and thereby increase the debit of water in the source. In this case, energy consumption during operation can decrease.
There are pumps that are provided with the help of certain engines (centrifugal), and there are those that work on the basis of the bearing (vibration) rotation.

Council. Automation for wells should be seamless, based only on the principle and regularity of the equipment.

For regular and uninterrupted work, always use.
It serves a longer period of time than vibration.
If it is planned to use the water all year round, it is better to give preference to him.
If the country's country area uses only in the country season, it is better to apply a vibration pump that has a smaller power, but is quite suitable for the normal water supply of the site.
It is worth noting that the price of centrifugal pumps is several times higher than on vibration equipment.

Surface pumps

What is the surface pumps:

Equipment of this type is on the surface of the soil.
Water fence from the source is carried out according to the suction method.
For this reason, the power of such a pump must be high at high well depth.
Surface pumps are divided into: vortex and centrifugal.

Note. Most often, surface pumps are used to arrange water supply on the site in order to increase the debit of water supply from the well. Inside the design use submersible pumps.

Surface pumps are quite large aggregates.
They have automation that can turn off and turn on the pump if necessary.
Supporting equipment of this type has a pressure of 1.5-3 atm.
It will be enough to ensure economic goals in the house: washing, gas columns with two levels and so on. See the photo with an example of such a pump.

Surface pumps work quite loud.
Recommendations:

Such equipment cannot be in unprotected.
For him, as a rule, a separate room is envisaged.
It is necessary to isolate it in order for the operation of the equipment to be heard, as it is to deliver some discomfort to residents at home.
Be sure to connect it to its electrical wiring and tested the pipes from the well.

Submersible pumps

There may also be vibration or centrifugal.
How it works:

The work of such equipment varies.
In the vibration pumps of the submersible type, the work process is to supply water due to the work of the piston, which is located in a special hydraulic chamber.
There is a certain frequency of vibration movements, which is at least 100 times per second.
Thanks to such a device, water supply is carried out under high pressure and water is easily pushed to the surface.
Vibrating pumps are designed for a simple water supply system of a country house.

Note. It is worth noting that the performance of such equipment is low, which does not make it possible to use it for industrial production. In addition, vibrations that are formed as a result of the pump work are capable of rapidly destroying the walls of the well and repair such a source is no longer subject to.

The most common are centrifugal submersible pumps:

They differ from the previous ones that are inside the source.
To install them, there is an instruction that indicates that the pump should be at a depth of 50-100 cm from the bottom of the source.
They have a number of advantages.

The advantages of submersible centrifugal pumps:

Installing such equipment is carried out with your own hands, and it is quite simple.
Pumps themselves have a longer period of permanent operation, which reaches 25-50 years (it all depends on the manufacturer and from the model).
The operation of pumps is not accompanied by noise and vibration.
They do not destroy the walls of the well.
The performance of this type of pumping equipment is quite high and it is used with different power for industrial production.
Pumps do not overheat, as they have a special sensor, which cools the engines in case of overheating.
With this will not be and when it overheats, it will immediately turn off.
The pump has a compact cone form, which is placed in a well without difficulty.

Council. For pump pumping, it is such pumps.

The average performance of the centrifugal pump is 3.4-3.5 m3 / h.

Council. If you can use submersible pumps to improve the well, it is best to exploit equipment throughout the year. If it is not used in this way, it is necessarily disassembled after use. This will make it possible to protect the equipment from breakdowns.

Methods of installation

With automation, it is possible to put it with your own hands. Moreover, in this embodiment, the issue price will cost exactly the cost of components.
You can mount the pump in the well in two ways: "Summer" and "Winter".

ATTENTION: For any embodiment, it is necessary to carefully monitor the quality of the joints. They must be completely sealed.

"Summer" way

So:

The entrance to the well is closed with the headband and is located above the ground surface.
The pump is lowered in a well at a certain depth with a water-lifting pipe, which is made of plastic PND d. 32-40 mm.
The process is carried out on stainless steel shelter 5 mm. As a rule, automation is not installed, but turn on and turn off the pump manually.

ATTENTION: This method is appropriate during the installation of water supply during construction or for country facilities that do not have internal water wiring in the house.

"Winter" way

In this way, you can use for year-round autonomous water supply:

Entry in need to deepen underground by 2 m, install metal caisson and close the head board.
The pump is lowered into a well at a certain depth using a water-lifting pipe from plastic PND d. 32-40 mm on a 5 mm stainless steel shelter.
Pipes for water supply to the house from the caisson are laid at a depth, which will be below the deep freezing (1.8 m).

In the technical room, for example, in the bathroom, boiler room or under the flight entrance, they are automatical (pressure switch), a pumping control panel, hydropneum-buck and stabilizer. Installation work is possible in Kesson.
Subject to the construction of the house on the ribbon or column foundation, as well as when the technical room will not heal in the winter period, the vertical tap pipe should be chosen by a heated cable system and insulate insulatingly.

ATTENTION: For both methods, PND pipes are suitable from plastic with a diameter of 23-63 mm at a level of water dynamics in 100 m and at a pressure of a maximum of 16 atm.

With a 100 meter level, tap pipes are needed from galvanizing, stainless steel or black:

They are cut by rings 4-11 mm and are connected by couplings or flanges.
The pump is mounted with their own hands at a depth of 80 m on a plastic pipe.
Pumps are lowered on plastic pipes with a large diameter or metal pipes to a depth of 80 m manipulator, winch or truck crane.

It happens that high-performance pumps (20 m3 / h) are mounted on pipes from fiberglass of increased strength, low weight and with a service life of more than 50 years. Installation work is carried out using a truck crane or manipulator.
So:

After installing the pump in the well, it is necessary to assign the headband with pipelines and put adjustment fittings or shut-off valves.
The adjustment valve is needed in order to output the pump on the working surface (calculated by the pump diagram) and limit the performance of work to the maximum.
Then the well pump up to obtain clean water, which passes into the house to the automatic hydropneumobacu.

For normal operation, not only special automation on the well, but also filter equipment is needed.
Design features:

At the moment, the filter can be mechanical that are installed in the well and do not allow the pump when the pump is turned on into the water supply of impurities and other pollutants.
Also there are automatic, which are installed at the outlet of the well or with the approach of water to the house.

Council. When arranging the well, self-made pumps are often used, which are installed at the bottom of the construction.

The pump can also be installed on the pump itself. In this case, the equipment begins to work after switching on the pumping equipment.
Filters help make water cleaner and high quality.

To equip the well, equipment for it and automatic systems are chosen based on the recommendations of specialists. On video, this article shows the process of installing the filter and pump in the design.

The owner himself is located on the backbone and he needs to organize watering. With the help of the keychain, you can control the submersible pump, turn on watering, dial water into the bath, turn on the fountain.

Use wireless control in the country.

The convenience of wireless light control is obvious. Now you do not need to look for a switch, a ball on the walls in the dark, highlighting their cell phone.

Include lighting can be located anywhere at home or plot and even on the approaches to the country. There are several options for using a rustic wireless control.

The main of them.

Wireless pump control (turn on and off) with the remote control.

The owner himself is at this time on his preservation site and he needs to organize watering. This mode is particularly convenient if the nearest well with the submersible pump is on a certain distance from the house and the site (100-150 m or a little more in the area of \u200b\u200bthe line of sight). Having this system, you can work on the site without leaving it, while water can be obtained as much as required. The pump operation is controlled by radio channel. The stated range is 200-250 m, but obstacles in the form of brick and concrete walls, as well as the tip of the LPP and the cellular antennas can reduce it.

Example of use from the company Zamel (Poland).

Remote + Wireless Relay.

To install on the street there is a moisture-proof box.

Additionally, it is possible to program an autocluting of watering, a timer is provided in the relay. For example, set the value of 30 minutes, after half an hour, watering stops.

Sets on control of watering and pump.

Wireless electrical shutders can be carried out at different frequencies - 433 MHz, 866 MHz and 2400 MHz. A relatively recently standard signal transmission frequency was 433 MHz, but recently the advantage operating at 868 MHz is becoming increasingly becoming increasingly.

We list the main advantages of work in this range:

It is less used, so there is less interference and "false positives", which often occurs at a frequency of 433 MHz;
You can connect up to 32 transmitters to one receiver, so the consoles can be distributed to all family members;
Increased range (200 m in line zone);
No permission to use;
Transmitters operating at a frequency of 868 MHz consume much less electricity than their higher-frequency analogues.