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To make a solar collector yourself. Plastic bottle concentrator. Important nuances of collector assembly do it yourself. Solar collector do it yourself - how to assemble a helixolete water heater from plastic bottles with their own hands

24.12.2017

Developed using the latest technologies and modern materials. Thanks to such devices occurs transformation of solar energy. The resulting energy can heat the water, to pull the premises, greenhouses and a greenhouse.

Apparators can be strengthened on the walls, roofs of the private house, greenhouses. For large rooms, it is recommended to acquire factory devices. Now Heliosystems are constantly being improved. Therefore, solar batteries are strongly fed in price, attracting consumer attention. The cost of factory devices is almost equal to financial costs spent on their manufacture. Increased price occurs only due to the financial screwdriver. The cost of the collector is commensurate with cash costs, which will be required to install the classical heating system.

The devices can be built with their own hands.

To date, the manufacture of such devices is gaining increasing popularity. It is worth noting that the effectiveness of the self-made apparatus in terms of its quality is greatly inferior to factory devices.. But heating a small room, a private house or household buildings Aggregate, made with your own hands, can easily and quickly.

Introductory video about the water heater device

Principle of operation

To date, various types of helixoletors have been developed.

But the principle of water heating is identical - all devices operate on one developed scheme.. In good weather, the rays of the sun begged to heat the coolant. It passes through a thin elegant tube, falling into a tank with liquid. The coolant and tubes are placed over the entire inner surface of the tank. Thanks to this principle, the fluid is heated in the apparatus. Later heated water is allowed to apply on domestic needs. Thus, it is possible to damn the room, use the heated liquid for shower cabins as a hot water supply.

The water temperature can be monitored by the developed sensors. If there is too strong cooling of the liquid, below the specified level, the special backup heating will automatically turn on. Solar collector can be connected to an electrical or gas boiler.

The scheme of work is presented suitable for all solar water heaters. Such a device is perfect for heating a small private house. To date, several devices have been developed: flat, vacuum and air devices. The principle of operation of such devices is very similar. The heat carrier is heating from sunlights with further efficiency of energy. But there is a lot of differences in the work.

Video about various types of heating

Flat collector

Heating the coolant in such a device due to a lamellar absorber. It is a plane plate of the heat machine. The top surface of the plate in a dark shade of specially designed paint. A snake tube is welded to the bottom of the device.

Using it, the circulation of fluid occurs.

Dark selective paint covering the top surface of the plate, absorbs powerful sun rays. The reflection of the sun comes down to a minimum. The absorbed energy warms the coolant under the absorber. To minimize heat loss - you can apply the insulation of the housing using tempered glass. Such material contains a minimum amount of iron oxides. Glass fasten over absorber. The device serves as the top cover of the housing. Also tempered glass creates a "greenhouse effect" in the form of an insulating greenhouse. This significantly increases the heating of the absorber, increasing the temperature of the coolant. Such a device is perfect for the heating of a private house. Also aggregate installed in greenhouses, shower cabins, garden greenhouses and greenhouses.

Vacuum collector

Compared to a flat device, a vacuum collector has another design. The main working elements are considered to be vacuumized tubes, as well as the coolant. Due to the high-selective coating, the glass surface of the device absorbs a large amount of the sun. Solar energy begins to quickly heat the inner coolant. The liquidation of heat loss occurs with the help of a vacuum layer. The accumulated heat passes through the heat collection, moving to the system itself.

The resulting energy can be used to heat the fluid in the accumulative tank.

If we consider work as a whole, the vacuum collector has the greatest productivity, compared with the flat device. The unit can be installed on the roof of a private house, in greenhouses, greenhouses, greenhouses, summer shower cabins.

Vacuum is considered the best insulator.

Air collector

Air collector is one of the most successful developments. But solar air-type solar batteries are very rare. Such devices are not suitable for home heating or hot water supply. They are used for air conditioning. The coolant is oxygen, which heats up under the influence of solar energy. The solar panels of this type are identified with a ribbed steel panel painted in a dark shade. The principle of operation of this device is a natural or automatic oxygen supply to private houses. Oxygen with solar radiation is heated under the panel, creating air conditioning.

It is allowed to install an air collector in private houses, commercial premises.

Pluses Heliosystems

  • Reduction of electricity consumption at least 2-3 times;
  • Due to the strong depletion of natural resources, the aggregates performed by their own hands can become indispensable sources of heating;
  • In the aircraft, to give specific certain aromatic properties, it is allowed to add additional substances. In the water of a flat and vacuum collector fasten antifreeze. They help not freeze fluids at low atmospheric temperatures;

Video about the technical device and the test of the device

Cons Heliosystems

  • Recent introduction of devices into operation;
  • The impossibility of installing the aggregates in some regions due to the time zone, the length of the daylight, location of the area, weather conditions;
  • In most cases, the device performed with your own hands is recommended to be used only as an additional source of energy. Use solar batteries to complete heat generation inexpediently;

Solar Installation Connection Scheme:

What do you need?

In order to make an air, flat or vacuum aggregate with your own hands, need:

  • Temperature sensors located in the device and the accumulator;
  • Adapters for connecting the system to cold water supply;
  • Drainage for hot water supply;
  • Special temperature sensors for heating fluid;
  • Expansion tank;
  • Circulation pump;
  • Solar regulator;

Design drawing:

Assembly instructions

First of all it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the future device. Therefore, it is recommended to carefully carry out the accurate calculation of the area on which the device will be. An important factor in the calculation is to determine the intensity of solar radiation. In the coldest regions, the energy of the Sun is weakened, in the southern regions of the country - increased. Also on calculations affects the location of the house, greenhouses or other sources in which the unit will be located. Another important fact is the material of the heating contour. The lower the material indicator - the less the temperature of the air or water flow.

Assembly process

Main stages of work:

  • Production of the box;
  • Production of a special heat exchanger, as well as radiator;
  • Manufacture of drive and avankmera;
  • Agroregation;

Commissioning;


Production of box

For the box you will need a cutting board 30x120 mm ± 5 mm. The bottom of the box makes textolite, equipping it with special ribs. Thanks to the foam, good thermal insulation is created. The bottom is covered with galvanized sheet.

It is allowed to replace the mineral wool foam.

Production of heat exchanger

  • Metal tubes will be needed. The length of the pipes should be at least 1.6 m. Quantity: 15 pieces. Also in work it is necessary to use two inches pipes with a length of 0.7 m.
  • In thickened tubes, low holes with identical diameter of smaller pipes should be drilled. Holes will be needed to install pipes. The drilled holes must be coaxial on the same axis. Their maximum step should be not more than 4.5 cm.
  • All the necessary tubes need to be assembled into a whole design. For reliability they are welded with the help of a welding machine.
  • On the galvanich, covering the bottom of the box, the heat exchanger is mounted. For reliability, it can be fixed with metal clamps or steel clamps.
  • For better absorption of rays, the bottom of the design is painted in a dark shade. The external components of the design are painted in a light shade. The white shade is perfect. It helps to reduce heat loss.
  • Near partitions are installed with coating glass. The joints carefully seal.
  • The average distance between the elements of the structure is 11 mm.

Production of the drive

A impermeable vessel of 140-380 liters can be used as this device.

It is allowed to use both a single barrel and various cooked structures. The cumulative tank should be isolated from heat losses. The avankaer must be equipped with a hinge valve - a mechanism feeding the liquid. The volume of the avankmera should be equal to 36-40 liters.


Aggregation

  • First of all, the drive and avankamer are installed. The height of the water in the avankmere should be 0.8 m above than in the accumulator. It is necessary to think through the liquid overlapping device.
  • The collector intended for heating is fixed on the framework frame. A device intended for water heating can be placed on the roof of the greenhouse, greenhouses or at home. To accommodate the device choose the south side. The installation must have a slope to the horizon equal to 35-40 °.
  • The distance between the heat exchanger and the drive should be no more than 50-70 cm. Otherwise, the loss of solar energy will be very tangible.
  • The collector should be located below the drive, and the drive below the avankmera.


Commissioning

The finished design must be connected to the water supply.

For the final assembly, there will be a special shut-off valve in the form of various adapters, splits or fittings. High-pressure sections of the solar battery are combined with special pipes with a diameter of 0.5 inches. For low-pressure sections, it is recommended to apply a pipe with a diameter of 1 inch.

  • With the help of the lower drainage opening, the design is filled with water;
  • Avankaer joins the device;
  • Liquid levels are resolved;
  • It is recommended to check the battery for water leakage;

After assembling and checking the design, you can start operation;

Production or purchase of a ready-made solution?

Homemade devices intended for heating and water heating have low efficiency. Therefore, such structures are recommended to use greenhouse for heating, floral greenhouse, small private space. Air, flat or vacuum apparatus can significantly increase the level of comfort in the country or in a country house. The devices reduce electricity costs consumed by conventional power sources. Thanks to the introduction of new technologies, the use of heliosystems is gaining increasing revolutions. But for the cold regions of the country, the factory structures should be purchased.

Ready solar panels have the highest efficiency compared to homemade devices.

Solar collectors are a good way to save energy resources. Solar energy - free, so at least 6-7 months a year you can get warm water for household needs. And the remainder months - also help the heating system.

Solar collector can be made independently. To do this, you will need materials and tools that can be bought in most building stores. Or what you will find in your garage.

The technology below was used in the project "Inclining the Sun - Live Comfortable". It was designed specifically for the project of the German company SOLAR PARTNER SUED, which is professionally engaged in selling, installation and service of solar collectors and photoell panels.

The main idea is cheap and angry. For the manufacture of the collector, pretty simple and common materials that can be bought in the nearest store, or even find in their garage. In this case, the efficiency of the collector remains at a decent level. It is lower than in factory models, but the price difference fully compensates for this disadvantage.

There are various types of solar water heaters, but all of them are based on a simple principle: the black surface absorbs solar heat, then this heat is transferred to water. The simplest models can be built from available materials and do not require pumps or other electrical equipment. An effective solar collector can be used even in winter due to the use of non-freezing liquids - antifreeze.

The described solar collector system is passive and independent of electricity. It costs without pumps. Hot fluid moves between the collector and the tank on the principle of convection, thanks to the simple rule - the heated liquid always rises upwards.

The principle of operation of such a solar collector is:

  1. The sun heats the liquid in the collector
  2. The heated liquid rises along the collector and the pipe in the tank battery
  3. When the hot liquid enters the heat exchanger installed in the water tank, heat is transferred from water heat exchanger in the tank
  4. The liquid in the heat exchanger, cooling, moves down the spiral and comes from the hole at the bottom of the tank back to the collector
  5. Water, heated in the tank, accumulates at the top of the tank
  6. Cold water from a water supply / tank enters the bottom of the tank
  7. The heated water is selected through the outlet in the upper part of the tank.

While the sun shines on the collector, the liquid in the pipes with absorber heats up, moves to the tank and thus constantly circulates. This process ensures water heating in the tank in just a few hours with intensive solar radiation.

The main element of the collector - absorber. It consists of a metal sheet, which is welded to metallic pipes. Several pipes are installed vertically and welded to two pipes of large diameter, located horizontally. These thick pipes for input and fluid exit must be located in parallel to each other. A fluid inlet (lower part of the absorber) and the outlet (upper part of the absorber) should be located from different sides of the panel (diagonally). To connect thicker pipes, it is necessary to drill holes for the diameter of vertical pipes.

For better heat transfer from a metal plate to pipes, it is very important to ensure maximum contact plate with pipes. Welding should be along the entire element. It is important that the metal sheet and pipes fit tightly to each other.

The absorber stacked in a wooden frame and covered with glass that protects the collector and creates a greenhouse inside the effect.

Applied ordinary window glass. The optimal thickness is 4 mm, while the good reliability and weight ratio is preserved. Preferably the desired glass area is separated into several parts. So more convenient and safer to work with it.

The use of several layers of glass or glass will give an increase in efficiency, but will increase the weight of the structure and the cost of the system.

The sun rays pass through the glass and heat the collector, and the glazing prevents heat leakage. The glass also prevents the air movement in the absorber without it the collector would quickly lose heat due to wind, rain, snow or low outer temperatures in general.

The absorber is laid under the absorber. Most often used mineral wool. The main thing is that it can withstand quite high temperatures during the summer (sometimes more than 200 degrees).

The bottom of the frame is closed by OSB stove, plywood, boards, etc. The main requirement for this stage is to make sure that the bottom collector is reliably protected from moisture ingress.

For fastening glass in the frame there are grooves, or fasten the planks on the inside of the frame. When calculating the size of the frame, it should be borne in mind that when changing weather (temperature, humidity) during the year, its configuration will change slightly. Therefore, on each side of the frame, there are several millimeters of stock.

On the groove or bar, the rubber window seal (D-or E-shaped) is fastened. It is put on it glass on which the seal is applied in the same way. From above, it is all fixed with galvanized tin. Thus, the glass is securely fixed in the frame, the seal protects the absorber from the cold and moisture, namely the glass will not be damaged when the wooden frame will "breathe".

Cumulative tank. Here is stored with a heated collector water, so it is worth taking care of its thermal insulation.

  • disable electric boilers
  • food Barrels

The main thing is to remember that pressure will be created in hermetic tank, depending on the pressure of the plumbing system, to which it will be connected. Not each container is able to withstand pressure in a few atmospheres.

In the tank make holes for the entrance and exit of the heat exchanger, the insertion of cold water, and the fence is heated.

In the tank there is a spiral heat exchanger. For it use copper, stainless steel, or plastic. Water heated through the heat exchanger will rise up, so it should be placed at the bottom of the tank.

The collector is connected to the tank with a pipe (for example, metal-plastic or plastic), conducted from the collector to the Baku through the heat exchanger and back to the collector. It is very important to prevent heat leakage: the path from the tank to the consumer must be as short as possible, and the pipes must be very well isolated.

The expansion tank is a very important element of the system. It is an open reservoir located at an extreme upper point of the circuit circuit of the liquid. For the expansion tank, you can use both metal and plastic dishes. With it, it is controlled by pressure in the collector (due to the fact that the fluid from heating is expanding, the pipes can be cracked). To reduce heat losses, the tank is also necessary to isolate. If air is present in the system, it can also go through the tank. Through the expansion tank there is also filling the collector liquid.

More features of the structure, the necessary materials and the rules for establishing a solar collector can be found by downloading a practical manual on the project website. Published

Join us in

The solar collector is a device designed to absorb solar energy and transform it to thermal in order to further transmit it to the coolant. A classic device is a black metal plate placed in a glass or plastic housing, the surface of which absorbs radiation. There are several types of them and the purpose can be different. Let's consider in more detail the principle of operation of this device, as well as the phased production of this object with your own hands.

Depending on the temperature that the plates can reach, collectors are:

  • low temperatures - do not give high power energy, they heat the water no more than 50 degrees Celsius;
  • average temperatures - water heat up to 80 degrees, so they can be used to heat the rooms;
  • high temperatures are used mainly at industrial enterprises, and at home is impossible to do them.

Integrated collectors are divided into:

  • accumulative integrated;
  • flat;
  • liquid;
  • air.

Cumulative integrated or different thermosphonic collector. It can not only heat the water, but for some time to maintain some time the desired temperature. There are no pumps in it, so it is much more economical than the other options. The drive device is a construction of one or more tanks filled with water and placed in the heat insulating box. From above on the tanks lies the glass cover, which passes through the glass and heats the water. It is inexpensive, easy to maintain and easy to use the option. However, winter use is very difficult.

The flat collector externally resembles a conventional flat metal box, inside which is placed a black plate, absorbing sunlight. A glass container lid enhances it, the glass has a low iron content, such a way to absorb all rays. The box itself is thermally insulated, and the black plate is heat-visible, due to which the heat is highlighted. However, the KPD plate is only 10%, so it is additionally covered by a layer of an amorphous semiconductor. Flat collectors are used to heal water in the pools, the heating of the premises and other butt needs.

In liquid drives, the main coolant becomes liquid. They are glazed and non-protected, with a closed and open heat exchange system.

Air collectors are much cheaper than their aquatic female. They do not freeze in winter, do not leak. They are used for drying agricultural products.

There is another kind - hubs , they are distinguished by the concentration of sun rays. This is due to a mirror surface that directs light on the absorbers. The main drawback is the impossibility of working on cloudy days, so they are used in countries with a hot climate.

Solar furnaces and distillers. Distillers operate on the principle of evaporation of water, thereby not only give heat, but also purify water. The furnaces are also used both for heating and for water sterilization.

Photo Gallery: Various types of collectors

In the design of the cumulator can be several tanks

Flat collectors are more often used for the heating of rooms and heating water in the pools.

In the liquid collector heat carrier water

Air collectors can also be used for drying fruits.

Scheme of work

The collector consists of two main parts: a light liner and a heat exchange battery, which converts radiation energy into thermal energy and transmits it to the coolant. Drives can be vacuum, pipe and flat. In the first, the construct is similar to the thermos: one pipe is inserted to another, and there is a vacuum between them, creating perfect thermal insulation. Due to the cylindrical form of pipes, the sun's rays fall on them perpendicularly and transmit maximum energy.


The solar collector consists of two main parts: light liner and heat exchanger battery

The coolant in such structures is ordinary water. It can not only dampen the room, but also serve for household needs. At the same time there are no carbon dioxide discharge into the atmosphere, which is very relevant today. In addition, no fuel costs are required, and the efficiency of the collector is 80%. On the most part of Russia in the period from March to October, on average, the sun is produced by the Sun 4-5 kWh / m 2, which allows a small device size 2m 2 to heat daily to 100 liters of water.

For all-season use, the collector must have an extensive surface, two contours with antifreeze and additional heat exchangers. Thus, thanks to competently used energy, it is possible to receive free heat for 7 months a year, regardless of that clear on the street or not.

Thermal energy for your home: how to make a collector with your own hands?

Polycarbonate sheets, copper or polypropylene tubes can go to the move.

The most universal design is the development of the Bulgarian engineer Stanislav Stanilova. The main principle of this collector is the use of a greenhouse effect. The drive is a tubular radiator cooked in the heat insulated wooden box, cooked by their steel pipes. To summarize and drive water, water pipes with a diameter of 1 or ¾ inches are used.

The box is heat insulated on all sides using foam plastic, polystyrene foam, mineral or eco-art. The bottom is especially carefully insulated, where the galvanized roofing iron sheet is put on top of insulation, which is put on the radiator itself. It is fixed in a box with steel clamps. The metal sheet and the radiator are sliced \u200b\u200bby black matte paint, and the box from all sides, in addition to the glass cover, is covered with white paint. The covered glass, through which the sunlight will pass to the radiator, is well sealed. The heat drive can serve as a metal barrel placed in a platform or plywood box, in the cavity of which is filled with eco-art, dry sawdust, clay, sand.

Required tools and materials


The main principle of the operation of such a collector - the use of greenhouse effect

  • glass (for example, 1700/750 mm);
  • rama under the glass;
  • organic for the bottom;
  • board with a cross section of 120/25 mm;
  • steel strip with a cross section 20 / 2.5 mm, length 3 m;
  • corner cover;
  • wooden bar cross section 50/30 mm;
  • coupling;
  • radiator pipe;
  • radiator reception tube;
  • clamps for fastening;
  • galvanized iron as a reflector;
  • heat insulator;
  • the tank is 200-300 liters.

Production: Step-by-step actions

Solar collector design is simple

  1. From the board the box is laid, the bottom of which is enhanced by the bar.
  2. The thermal insulation (foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool) is stacked on the bottom, on top of which iron or tin sheet is put.
  3. The radiator is installed on top and fixes the clamps from the steel strip.
  4. All connections are sealed, joints and cracks are embarrassed.
  5. Radiator pipes and metal sheet are chosen into black.
  6. The box and the water tank is painted in silver color. The water tank is placed in the heat insulated box or barrel (there is a thermal insulation material between the tank and the walls of the box).
  7. To create a permanent pressure, an aquacamera with a float valve is purchased, as in the toilet barrel. It can be purchased at the plumbing store.
  8. In the attic of the house, aquacamera and water drive (tank) is placed under the roof. Aquacamera is placed above the tank at least 0.8 m.
  9. The collector is placed on the roof of the south side of the house at an angle of 45 0 to the horizon.
  10. Next, there is a connection of the entire system among themselves with pipes: High-pressure part of the system from Aquacamera to the water supply is mounted. Inch pipes are mounted low-pressure parts. The minimum number of pipes is 12 pieces, but, depending on the distances between the parts of the collector, you will need 18-15 pipes, but not less than 12.
  11. To avoid air traffic jams, the system is filled with water from the bottom of the radiator. Once the entire system is filled with water, water is polished from the drainage tube aquacmer.
  12. Open the valve in the tube to fill the tank.
  13. Water begins to heat up immediately. Warm water rises up, recking cold, and that automatically enters the radiator.
  14. As soon as part of the water is used, the float valve in aquacmer will work, and cold water will go into the lower part of the system. Water mixing does not occur.

At night, it is desirable to overlap the access of water into the tank so that the heat loss does not occur.

Video: Air Solar Collector Device for Home Heating

Video: Use solar energy to heating the pool

Video: Production and installation of a collector for heat heating

Video: Simple device for collecting solar energy from beer cans

Use solar energy for home heating, greenhouse or pool heating. Solar collector will help you save a lot of money and serve for a very long time.

2016-03-29 11:15:04

"At night, it is advisable to overlap the access of water into the tank so that the heat loss does not occur" is it possible to somehow automatically control? Every day you do not always have time. MB Reverse valve to put on the entrance?

2016-05-30 18:00:26

Photo relay for exterior lighting (500r) + ball crane with Chinese (about 1000r)

2016-06-02 22:12:58

What if the roof on which the solar collector is placed, partly overlaps from the sun with nearby high-altitude houses and high trees? How to increase the power generated in this case? Is it possible to make a system from several collectors to increase the generated heat? What to do in winter to avoid the freezing of the system?

Year-round water heating or home heating in the winter due to solar energy - all this can be obtained by making your own hands with a sunny collector.

Depending on the speed of water movement in the heat exchanger, it can also convert water to steam, which can be useful for various industries or needs - be it starting the steam engine of the stirling or stepping concrete products.

Such devices are made from undergraduate funds without serious costs.

We will consider the following options:

  • manufacture of flat mirrors;
  • from the old parabolic antenna;
  • from hoses.

Production of a hub from an old satellite antenna

1. Any model will suit the design to concentrate solar rays at one point - a straightfonic or offset.

2. The curvilinear surface of the parabola is covered with ribbons cut from a mirror film, a solid piece of causing it is difficult.

As a reflector, a metallized adhesive film is suitable, and pieces of mirrors are suitable.

3. The focus point on the satellite antenna corresponds to the converter mount area.

4. The copper tube is wrapped on the pipe ½ inches - it will be a heat treatment.

So that the copper tube is not deformed and did not pry during the winding, it is filled with salt.

5. For a better result, the heat receiver is painted in a black color heat-resistant paint.

In order not to cool down from the bustovs of the wind, it is insulated using refractory materials, for example, a mulliforidal fiber.

From flat mirrors

For its manufacture it is better to use an aluminum corner. Possessing a small weight, it forms a lighter design.

To build a mirror surface, aluminum polished or thin sheets of polished stainless steel are suitable.

If there are remnants of cropping of mirror stainless sheets, then it will be quite a budget option.

Glass mirrors are too fragile and heavy. Instead of mirrors, polystyrene plates coated with adhesive-based foil are also suitable.

The dimensions of the plates do not have a decisive value, one of the options - Squares 15x15cm.

Where to start

How to make a heat transfer

Stages of work:

1. Frame and lattice better make From an aluminum corner, the perimeter of the cells from the guides should be a little more perimeter of the mirror plates.

2. The heat exchanger is assembled from copper pipes:

  • swire from them with a grid
  • to prevent heat losses, closed the crops between them.

3. The angular joints of the guides are drilled, the bolts insert a length of 70 mm into the holes, fix them with nuts.

4. By selecting the correct arrangement of the heat exchanger (which coincides with the focus point), fasten the mirrors on the frame in such a way that each - reflects the solar rays into one point.

5. The first mirror is fixed with two washers so that the reflection of the sunlight from it is oriented at the focus point.

It will serve as a reference for the following parts..

Since the mirror mount will occupy enough time, and solar activity changes during the day, periodically, it will be necessary to adjust the frame position in such a way that the reflection of the reference mirror was all the time at the focus point.

6. The second mirror is fixedAnd also goes to the focus point.
So that the installed mirrors do not interfere when installing subsequent, they are shaded.

7. The attachment method from the end of the previous mirror is possible for the first rows of plates.
But, better, the rows of mirrors are installed from the frame, because in the rows describing the parabola, may not be enough of the length of the bolts.

8. When the plates are fixed, the rods are installed on which the heat exchanger will be fastened.
At the point of focus, the heat exchanger is installed, it is poured with water, the temperature is measured.

9. When moving sunlight The reflection from the mirrors will shift to the side, and the heat exchanger will stop warm.

For continuous operation, the installation of a special system with a mechanism unfolding the hub towards the Sun is thought out.

Manufacturing collector

1. It is a simple constructive version of the hub. Well suitable for water heating up to 100 liters.

With this option, only the water is used (how to find on the site read in the article), which heated in the pipes, and there is no need to install a cumulative tank.

2. Polyethylene or rubber hoses are used black, a diameter of 20-25 mm. They put them on the spiral on the gentle roof.

In the case of too much inclination of the roof, the helix of the hose is placed in a specially built box.

3. So that the pipes are not deformed when the temperature drops are fixed by clamps, plastic or metal.

Plastic bottle concentrator

It is a different constructive look - allowing the sunshine at different times of the day to fall at right angles.

Bottles surface enhances the effect of sunlight, performing the role of lenses. The transparent plastic surface is resistant to ultraviolet, rather than rubber or PVC.

The main material used for the manufacture of the hub is not worth the money, therefore, the manufacture of equipment will require minimal investments.

Needed materials:

  • plastic bottles of the same configuration and size;
  • tetrapk bags from under juice or milk;
  • pVC pipes (external diameter of 20 mm) and tees for hot water supply.

Instead of PVC pipes, copper pipes are used, But their cost is much higher.

Stages of work:
1. Bottles and tetrap packages Wash with detergent, remove labels.

2. Tetrapaki paint black. With the help of a cardboard template and a stationery knife cut off the bottom of the bottles along the line.

3. The heat exchanger is collected from polyvinyl chloride pipes with a diameter of 20 mm. At the top of the corner and tees are connected by glue.

4. Pipes on which bottle and absorbers from tetrapaks are rolled, to absorb solar energy, choke black. After bottles, absorbers are bred, inserting them until it stops.

5. Install the design on a support from a tree or metal, towards the Sun. For medium latitudes, the southeastern direction is chosen.

6. The cumulative tank is installed above the collector No less than 30 cm.

At this height, installing the pump to create circulation is not needed.

Since plastic bottles, over time, lose traffic, it is recommended to change them every five years.

Connection methods

A common, not complex method is the use of a collector for water heating, using the method of natural circulation. It is suitable for the summer soul and hot water supply in the house.

For natural circulation, the collector is installed at a distance of no more than 1 m from the tank and below 70-80 cm.

The pipes used between the tank and the collector are selected enough diameter, not less ¾ inch. For the summer soul, the tank is installed on the street, for the hot water supply of premises or household needs (about connecting the washing machine to the water supply, you read with your own hands) - in the house.

Connection on the principle of natural circulation.

The circulation pump is used to create forced circulation, if there is no possibility to install the tank at the desired distance and height.

In winter, water from the tank is drainedSince frozen water damages pipes.

To ensure the heating of water for a winter concentrator connection, a special fluid is poured into the heat exchanger - antifreeze (non-freezing liquid).

The tank model for this method is chosen insulated with a copper coil installed inside (indirect heating).

With such a scheme, the coil heats the water, and the circulation of the liquid passes between the collector and the coil located in the tank.

In this case, it is desirable to use forced circulation, with the installation of the circulation pump. The contour will require a mandatory connection of the expansion tank.

Installing a reservoir at right angles The sun rays gives a larger efficiency. During the year, the angle of inclination of the collector is changing, depending on the intensity of solar lighting:

  • in summer, the magnitude of the angle corresponds to the geographical latitude of the locality plus 15 °;
  • in winter - minus 15 °;
  • in the spring and autumn, installed, almost vertically.

For properly efficient work The collectors to them connect the mechanism of tracking the sun, which is controlled by the engines.

The more the weight of the structure, the more powerful the engine is chosen.

Solar concentrated energy, located in the focus area, can cause serious burns or cause ignition objects.

For this, enough, hold the wooden subject at the point of the focus of 30 seconds.

For security purposes, protective remedies are used when working, be sure to use: sunglasses, welding mask, tarpaulin gloves.

For the manufacture of solar collectors, folk craftsmen use old window frames, refrigerators, electric boilers and other healthy objects and materials.

The manufacture of solar collectors is under the power of each, only knowledge of the laws of physics and skills to work with simple tools are required.

What is a solar collector and how to make it with your own hands, clearly shown in the proposed video.

Energy. Free solar energy will be able at least 6-7 months a year to provide warm water for household needs. And the remainder months - also help the heating system.

But the most important thing is that a simple solar collector can be made independently. To do this, you will need materials and tools that can be bought in most building stores. In some cases, it will be enough even what is found in the usual garage.

The following technology of the solar heater assembly was used in the project "Inclusive Sun - Live Comfortable" . It was designed specifically for the project of the German company SOLAR PARTNER SUED. which is professionally engaged in selling, installation and service of solar collectors and photoelectric systems.

The main idea - everything should get cheap and angry. For the manufacture of the collector, pretty simple and common materials are used, but its effectiveness is quite acceptable. It is lower than that of factory models, but the difference in price fully compensates for this flaw.

The sun rays pass through the glass and heat the collector, and the glazing prevents heat leakage. The glass also prevents the air movement in the absorber without it the collector would quickly lose heat due to wind, rain, snow or low outer temperatures.

The frame should be treated with antiseptic and paint for outdoor work.



In the case, through holes are made to supply cold and removal of heated fluid from the collector.


Absorber himself paint heat-resistant coating. Conventional black paints at high temperatures begin to peel or evaporate, which leads to the darkness of the glass. The paint must dry completely before you secure the glass coating (to prevent condensation).

The absorber is laid under the absorber. Mineral wool is most often used. The main thing is that it can withstand quite high temperatures during the summer (sometimes more than 200 degrees).



The bottom of the frame is closed by OSB stove, plywood, boards, etc. The main requirement for this stage is to make sure that the bottom collector is reliably protected from moisture ingress.

For fastening glass in the frame there are grooves, or fasten the planks on the inside of the frame. When calculating the size of the frame, it should be borne in mind that when changing weather (temperature, humidity) during the year, its configuration will change slightly. Therefore, on each side of the frame, there are several millimeters of stock.

On the groove or bar, the rubber window seal (D-or E-shaped) is fastened. It is put on it glass on which the seal is applied in the same way. From above, it is all fixed with galvanized tin. Thus, the glass is securely fixed in the frame, the seal protects the absorber from the cold and moisture, namely the glass will not be damaged when the wooden frame will "breathe".

The junctions between the sheets of glass are isolated by a seal or silicone.



To organize solar heating at home you need a storage tank. Here is stored with a heated collector water, so it is worth taking care of its thermal insulation.

As a tank, you can use:

  • disable electric boilers
  • various cylinders for gases
  • food Barrels

The main thing is to remember that pressure will be created in hermetic tank, depending on the pressure of the plumbing system, to which it will be connected. Not each container is able to withstand pressure in a few atmospheres.

In the tank make holes for the entrance and exit of the heat exchanger, the insertion of cold water, and the fence is heated.


In the tank there is a spiral heat exchanger. For it use copper, stainless steel or plastic. Water heated through the heat exchanger will rise up, so it should be placed at the bottom of the tank.

The collector is connected to a tank with pipes (for example, metal-plastic or plastic), conducted from the collector to the Baku through the heat exchanger and back to the collector. It is very important to prevent heat leakage: the path from the tank to the consumer must be as short as possible, and the pipes must be very well isolated.


The expansion tank is a very important element of the system. It is an open reservoir located at an extreme upper point of the circuit circuit of the liquid. For the expansion tank, you can use both metal and plastic containers. With it, it is controlled by pressure in the collector (due to the fact that the fluid from heating is expanding, the pipes can be cracked). To reduce heat losses, the tank is also necessary to isolate. If air is present in the system, it can also go through the tank. Through the expansion tank there is also filling the collector liquid.


Engineers from the distant Argentine Province Tucuman developed a simple and cheap solar water heater of several dozen plastic bottles. And they wrote a detailed instruction that became so popular that thousands of people from different parts of the Hispanic-speaking world were used.

This device will absolutely freely provide 80 liters of warm water with a family of 4 people. And all you need for this: 6 plastic bottles and 2 meters of hose.

Step-by-step instruction, how to make a solar water heater from plastic bottles

1. Assemble at least 30 bottles of soft disposable 1-1.5 liters and remove the label.
2. Buy in the store 12 meters of the hose for watering black (exactly black) 2 cm in diameter, 8 "T-shaped" adapters and two knees, a tonflon roll and two ball valves 2 cm in diameter.
3. At the base of each bottle, we do holes equal to the diameter of the hole in the neck. You can drill, and can be a hot screwdriver.


Then make the bottle on the hose, so that one row accounted for 6 bottles. You should have 5 rows of bottles with a length of the hose 2 meters.


4. We connect the hoses by T-shaped adapters.


5. We post the entire design into a foam insulated box and connect with a barrel with a barrel of 80 liters. (For a better thermal effect, you can store the foil box. And you can cover the matte paint from the canister.)


6. I exhibit the collector at an angle of 45 degrees on the south side of the roof. (For windscrelarms, you can cover the collector with glass and transparent polycarbonate.)


Pour water and ... voila! After 15 minutes


C Ollenium Collector Pat Bottles

Konstantin Tymoshenko
Source: DeLaysam.ru.

Two years ago, I experimented with PET bottles on the subject of manufacturing a solar water heater - a collector, which would supply my seven hot water in the country season and for washing and for economic needs. And finally, this year they reached him.

Copying for the winter there is a lot of pet bottles from under drinking water, I decided to make a solar collector from them - a water heater. I also bought a polypropylene tube with a diameter of 50 mm, a couple of plugs - plugs and started working. On the length of the pipe felt 20 PET bottles of 2 liters each. Thus, the volume of the solar collector should have been about 40 liters of water. The volume is quite sufficient for daily needs in a piece of washing dishes and washing.

Saving the desired number of holes under the bottle in the pipe, I ran into the problem of sealing the interface of the bottle and the polypropylene tube. Silicone and acrylic sealants flatly refused to adhere to it and fly away like leaves from the cabbage coach. It seems to be tightly kept, but I slightly pressed - it departs entirely. The output was found in the use of thermoclause. But here it did not cost without surprises. The glue seems to be good, but too, peeled out with layers. I had to take a soldering iron, and carefully launched (wigitive) glue into polypropylene around the perimeter of the hole. I also had to do with bottles. The glue had to be fused in their neck. After that, it was possible to firmly and securely glue bottles into the pipe.

In one from the end traffic jams, I embed a fitting to connect to the water supply. The water heater was supposed to accumulate. Those. With the discovery of the crane, it was filled with water (40 liters), the water heated and merged into the thermos-drive. Bottles were supposed to be located at an angle of about 20-30 degrees, down the neck. Whatever the bottled air interfere with the water filling them, a small hole (2-3 mm) has been done in the upper part of all bottles.

In order for the collector did not "closer" under the severity of the filling its water, a box of 150 mm width was made. The bottom of the box was laid a layer of polystyrene foam in 50 mm and covered on top of a household foil. This is done for the thermal insulation of PET bottles and to improve the efficiency of the solar collector.

So, the entire system was laid in the box and is connected to the water supply system. Bottles I covered black matte paint from the canister, remembering my experiments with PET bottles to heat water (solar flow-cumulative water heater read below). After filling the solar collector with water, I inserted a sensor from an electronic thermometer into one and bottles to keep track of water and air temperature.

The housing itself of the solar collector was focused east (alas, the roof was already ready ...). But since its slope is quite small (about only 20-25 degrees), the loss of efficiency should have been small. In fact, it was possible to assume that the collector is almost horizontally.

The first day of the reservoir was issued with "variable cloud." But the sun was quite a lot and the water was heated at 48-50 degrees to 14 o'clock. The collector's housing was not closed and since the wind blew the middle strength, I understood that the bottles were heated from the Sun, and cooled by the wind. Yes, and 50 degrees for hot water - not so much. Wash, wash the dishes - ok. But without the "stock", even fused in thermos such water will quickly cool even the next day.

Therefore, I decided to make the windproof bottles with several pieces of glass lying from me from time immemorial. Printed glass into several points with silicone sealant, but left microsers for airing into the case of his fogging.

The day was not clear, but also with variable cloud. But the air was transparent, almost without haze. Therefore, the sun shone brightly, although not "100%". With the installation of glasses, heating began to occur much more intense than without them ... The temperature of 50 degrees (the initial temperature of the water is about 15 degrees) was achieved approximately to the hour of the day and then continued to rise, although the sun exceeded the "perpendicular" to the solar collector plane.

At about 16 pm "happened terrible." When the water temperature is reached at 65 degrees (what I did not dream), the collector just began to collapse! Thermocles softened so much that he stopped withstanding even the minimum water pressure and the location of the PET bottles and the polypropylene tube were "crying". But these are still half. Pet bottles themselves began to breed! It is clear that the temperature of their "hull" exceeded the limit for PET and was larger than the water temperature. I knew that PET is breeding at high temperature, but did not expect that this temperature will be achieved in a primitive in the construction of a solar collector. Thus, my solar collector - the water heater ceased to exist during the "tests".

What conclusions can be made from this experiment?

1. You can make a simple and extremely cheap solar water heater - a collector from PET bottles. The cost of it will not exceed $ 10! Bottles - conditionally free, pipe 2 meters 50 mm - 60 rub, pair of cap covers - another 40 rubles. A pair of thermoclause rods - 30 rubles. Fitting for connecting to water supply, trimming of foam, board, glass or plastic film ...

The only drawback is the temperature of the heated water should not exceed 50-55 degrees. Otherwise, the solar collector collapses. The problem of thermoclause can be solved by the manufacture of fittings. For example, take the tube (aluminum or copper), and cut the thread on its outer face. And a pair of nuts to secure the cover of the bottle on the collector of the water underwear. And just screw the bottle into your own cork.

In principle, this temperature of water (50 degrees) is sufficient for household needs. Perhaps in the hottest months of the summer should not increase the efficiency of the solar water heater. Let it be better a little longer than melting. And in the demi-season months - it's worth covering the collector to glass.

2. The potential at the solar collector - water heater even in the middle lane is Russia there! And the potential is huge! From April-May and in September inclusive (in fact, the entire country season) Solar collector - the water heater of proper size and design can provide hot water a regular family, saving hundreds (and maybe thousands) of the family budget, which are spent on electrical heaters and their work .

Of course, you should come up with something more reliable and heat-resistant than PET bottles for use in a solar collector - water heater. And of course - budget. For example - aluminum banks ....

Sunny flow accumulative water heater from PET bottles

Experimenting with elements of the flow - cumulative solar water heater from plastic PET bottles, I somehow noticed that the temperature of the dark (brown) bottle of beer, even to the touch higher than that of transparent water. It came across me to make a simple experiment with bottles of different colors and species, in order to identify the most effective of them from the point of view of heating.

At the very beginning, I thought that there was no better water bottle, rather than transparent. The sun warms the water directly, without intermediaries. How I was mistaken! The very first results of the experiments dispelled my theories in the fluff and dust.

The conditions for conducting the experiment were simple. I just put a number of bottles at the shed wall, which is facing about southeast. Since the conditions for all bottles were completely the same, I did not heat them in any way and oriented. Those. That is the case, in Spartan conditions, this used Pet Patra and should have shown its true character.

Bottles were prepared according to the list in the table. At the same time I used the following considerations.

1. It was understood that the shielding of the rear (unlit part of the bottle) aluminum foil will reflect the irrigated IR rays and reflect them back into the bottle.

2. The rear of the back of the bottle (rubber-bitumen mastic from an aerosol can) will allow "absorb" passed through the bottle of IR rays. One of the bottles was dried completely, i.e. From all sides and became black and matte.

Everything was done on the eve and the next day all the bottles met the dawn at the venue of the experiment. The ambient temperature was taken into account (in the shadow of nearby) and the wind blowing bottles.

The sun on this day shone through a small haze, i.e. It did not give a complete heat, but since everyone was in equal terms, it can not be considered.

The results of this experiment are shown in the table. By the way, if someone thinks that water in 52 degrees is "so-so" - try to hold your hand in it, at least 2 minutes ... only inquiring the post-and-like Mazi ... And at the same time, measure the temperature of hot water from the crane in the apartment . It is unlikely that it will be much higher.

What conclusions can be done?

1. Actually transparent water is a very bad absorber of IR rays. They practically pass through it without lingering. As you can see, a transparent bottle remained the "cold". Heating can be safely attributed due to the non-absolute transparency of the bottle itself, rather than direct water heating in it.

2. The presence of foil on the rear wall of the bottle as little affects the heating. I do not know why. It is possible to heat only on the front wall of the bottle, possibly foil except the reflector lenses also performs the role of the radiator - the cooler.

3. Transparent with a shredded bottom looks much better (by 8%). But obviously, the change in the angle of lighting the sun began to be affected. As the illumination angle changes, the area of \u200b\u200bthe rear absorbing surface has been changed.

4. It was the fullenticated bottle better than everyone. The black matte surface almost completely absorbed the IR rays. And since the PET bottle is round, the lighting angle has no fundamental importance.

5. Also very well showed themselves and bottles of dark plastic. This suggests that the absorption of heat PET bottles is mainly the side facing the sun. And very weak - actually "insides" of bottles (water). And at all in any way - the back side.

This allows us to conclude that the solar collector from plastic PET bottles should actually be.

It must be a box, with a well insulated bottom where PET bottles are laid. The side of the bottles facing the Sun must be burned out by any matte paint (the same "Kuzbass lacquer" or rubber-bituminous mastic). From above, the box is close or thin glass, or tightened with a polyethylene film, to protect against wind.

This design of the solar flow or cumulative heater from PET bottles will be the most efficient. By the way, the same results allow you to estimate the design and most effective "classic" water heater. It is obvious that his "mirror" does not necessarily have to be transparent. And if it is transparent - then the "bottom" must be absolutely heat-absorbing.

Now let's talk about the "place" of such a heater in the system of cottage water supply hot water.

Of course, the presence on the roof of this heater does not ensure that you will have hot water. There are also prolonged bad weather, and at night, especially in demi-season, water will be very cooling in such a heater.

I think that a similar water heater performs 2 functions.

BUT) Allows you to make sure that solar water grew is possible and this reality is possible. After all, not everyone will decide that with the bay-junctions to build a solar collector, putting into solid money for the sake of the ephemeral economy of electricity, firewood, money. This water heater will pay off for 500 rubles per season and will let you feel the charm of the moment.

B) This water heater will continually save money in the form of firewood, electricity, gas, etc. Working as a water treatment system for any industrial water heater.

Consumption of hot water in every family your own. But in any case, it should be always. Therefore, as soon as the water heating in the solar collector ends, it should be immediately sent to a well-thermally insulated drive from which the hot water consumption occurs. In the same drive, a TEN must be installed, which will allow hot water to get hot water during the period of prolonged bad weather. Either it can be brought to wood water.

But in any case, the actual solar water heater is only part of the hot water preparation system. Then hot water will be in the house or soul always and around the clock. Although of course it can be used in itself. Just hot water will be ready for dinner.

Solar water heater from plastic bottles

On solar water heaters (solar collectors) in general ...

The overwhelming majority of dachans would like to have a shower with solar water heating. But then the primitive barrel installed on the roof of the shower cabin is usually not going. 99% do not recognize to build around this barrel even the simplest frame and cover it with a plastic film (which would increase the use of solar energy times in 2, at a minimum! Try to enter the closed film greenhouse on a sunny day!). The most advanced is inserted into this barrel of the TEN (thermoelectric heater) and warm themselves with them atmosphere.
Meanwhile, probably every schoolboy knows that for each square meter of the surface perpendicular to the sunshine, it falls 600-1000 watts of energy per hour! Well, just sin does not use it in the summer! When it is especially pleasant after a hot day to take a shower before bedtime, and during the day it does not prevent a refreshing. But after all, not ice water from a well or well.

Those who were in Greece or Italy probably noticed that almost every house there is a water heater heliacollector. Although they are arranged in principle, quite simple, there are many nuances in their work. For example, a permanent way of water, thermal insulation of the accumulative tank, the organization of water circulation between the tank and the actual manifold, etc.

But the independent manufacture of such systems is extremely and laborious, and expensive, and in general, with a dilettanic approach, it promises more hassle than benefits.
In fact, it is necessary to make a hermetic collector, organize water circulation and its regular replenishment, avoid mixing already heated water with fresh cold. And for the winter it's all this business (we do not have Greece with +12 in January). And what for? Toli business native iron barrel! Poured - heated, merged for the winter - no problem. Well, and that it works only 10-15 AZ in the year. But without hassle.

These are all these problems and hold dacnons from creating a normal and efficient water heater solar collector.
But it seems to me that when using plastic bottles, many problems are solved. All "delights" of simplicity of the primitive "barrel" solar water heater remains and the advantages of a real manifold are added, with water circulation. And these advantages will be apparent along the description of the water heater.

Solar water heater collector from plastic bottles.

What is a plastic PET bottle, you do not need to explain. For a solar collector, any transparent from under carbonated drinking water is suitable. Although I do not know, I did not experiment with dark bottles.
If you pour water in such a bottle and put in the sun, the water in it is quickly warm up. But the bottle has a very limited volume! 2-2.5 liters maximum. And so that it would be decent to take a shower, you need at least 50-60 liters, better than 100.
The main problem of creating a solar water heater consists in connecting many plastic bottles into a single container and the organization of their kind of dockey! So that cold water can flow into them, and warm - to flow. Deciding this task, we just get a small transparent tank that perfectly heats the water due to solar energy. Taking, for example, 100 such mini-tanks, i.e. Bottles, we already get 200 liters of warm water!

Initially, I wanted to organize a bottle flow through creating a special cork. For example, with coaxial tubes. One flows into one, it follows. But the manufacture of the mass of such tubes (for example, 100 or 200) is not very simpler than creating a normal classic solar collector. Therefore, I decided to go to another way - the connection of bottles and the creation of a peculiar transcendent pipe, which will be simultaneously the tank, and the collector itself. Well, like a barrel, only flat and transparent.

Having measured the diameter of the thread on the neck of the bottle, I picked up the drill that a hole in the bottom of another bottle is drilled. The drill thing is best - the ringlet for drilling the holes for a large diameter of a 26 mm wood (sets of such pylons in abundance are available and cost 70-100 rubles). With this diameter, the neck of the bottle is quite tightly screwed into the hole in the bottom of the other. Sometimes you have to work round a large file. Yes, and it is advisable to drill a hole strictly around the bottle center with a regular drill of 6-8 mm. I will say what to do it is not easy, because It is in the center of the Donkey there is a very solid and sleek tide - pimples. Therefore, for mass accurate drilling, it will be better to make a simple template that would not grow drill.

The next problem was the question of sealing. Generally speaking, to PET, as it were, nothing sticks and is not glued. But it turned out, not quite so. Even with a drilled hole, the bottom of the bottle retained absolute rigidity, and this gave hope for the use of silicone sealants. Carefully degreased the surface with acetone, I smeared the bottle thread and screwed it into the bottom. And then abundantly smeared the joint with a sealant and outside. For reliability, left bottles were stationary for 3 days (the rate of fermentation of sealant 3-4 mm / day, as stated in the instructions).


As I just was going to work out technology and conduct an experiment, I was limited to a consistent connection of only 3 bottles. The tightness of the joints turned out absolute! In the photo, the water bottles lie on the cardboard and as you can see, no water flows! By the way, Silicone is so sticking to PET - you will not be filled with a knife!
During the day in the sun (or rather, in just a few hours), the water was perfectly heated even without any additional tricks. Thus, a certain conditional collector cell - water heater was obtained, with a size of 0.1 meters (bottle diameter) per meter (bottle length approx. 35 cm). Those. The collest area was 0.1 square meters. meter, and the container is OK. 6 liters. It is easy to calculate that by 1 square meter. Approximately 10 such modules will fit the meter, the capacity of which will be 60 liters of water. On these 60 liters of water, the Sun will freely pour in almost kilowatt energy! Yes, this water is not so much to heat - you can boil! Well, of course it will never boil, at least because of the heat loss. But to heat 60 liters of water to 40-45 degrees can be 2-3 times accurate. What is more than enough for dacha need.

Now actually about the project of the water heater.

For example, we make 10-20 such modules and a length of 3, but 5-6 bottles (in general, how much the roof area facing south). You can, of course, using hoses to organize the complete flow of all modules, but I think it is meaningless. Because all the same water is heated at the same time and gets the same amount of heat at any point of the collector. Therefore, we will connect our modules in parallel! And we will use from the barrel mode: poured - heated - used (or merged into a thermally insulated drive).
To connect all our modules in parallel, a pipe is required, a sufficiently large diameter (millimeters 50, and better 100, for example, polypropylene). All modules are cut into it as well as the bottles between themselves in the module. Perhaps it will be possible to do and easier. By sticking or having screwed up a bottle with a screw to the pipe and ensuring tightness, drill in a plug (and pipe, at the same time) hole, simply screw the module into a plug.


Modules, of course, should be located under the tilt (the bottom side is drawn towards the south, the total pipe at the lowest point of the collector). In the uppermost bottle of the module, it is necessary to drill a small hole, 2-3 mm. On both sides of the pipe to install the valve. To one of them we bring water (for example, from a pump or water tank, in Figure 2). And the other valve will be collapsible, warm water will merge through it (in Figure VENT.1).
Works solar water heater collector as follows. The valve is closed, and we begin to fill the collector with water, opening the valve 2. The water fills the bottles "bottom up". The air is out of the holes at the top of the modules. Of course, as in the communicative vessels, the water level in the modules is the same. Visually, identifying that the bottles were filled, we close the valve 2 and the water heater begins its work.
If we need warm water, we open the valve 1 and the heated water begins to drain from the collapsible pipe.

That's all right.
Everything is just like in a barrel, only water such a collector will heat up an order more effectively than barrel, due to its large area.

A little about the design.
Of course, the modules are desirable to put in the "drawer", to give stiffness of the structure. The bottom of the box is desirable to make a dark material absorbing the sun's rays. For example, shrew the iron sheet. Under the sheet, it would be nice to place a thermal insulator, for example, a thin foam or foamed polyethylene ("PESEROPLEX"). The top of the box is tightened with a polyethylene film or glass, so that the wind does not cooled the bottles.

The angle of inclination is minimal, degrees 10-20-30, no more.
First, in the summer it is the most optimal angle of inclination towards the Sun (almost perpendicular), and in the winter this collector do not use.
Secondly, it will provide a minimum water pressure drop (waterpover height), which is important if there are many butts of bottles. Although at the tests, I set my 3-bottle module even vertically and he "held" a pressure of 0.1 atm., I would not take risks when working.

The size of the whole water heater is the taste of the creator. For 200 liters, it will be necessary. 110 bottles that will occupy OK. 3 square meters. True and the power of such a heater will be about 3 kW!
You can use the heater in the "poured - poured" mode. And you can also arrange a thermally insulated tank-drive for warm water. On a good sunny day, 2-meter, sorry, 2 kilomate water heater will heat you and half-bottom water.

Freezers such a water heater is not afraid (except for water fittings), the sun is not scary to the sun (PET is poorly decomposed in the sun).
Of course, such a solar water heater has disadvantages (for example, bad automation) However, much pays off in almost free. Judge yourself, what money will be spent here. Well pipe, couple valves and 2-3 Tubes silicone sealant on 45-50 rubles / pc. And bottles of water will get you as a bonus when buying water in the store. By connecting to their collection and acquaintances, you will collect several dozen for the next season, and then hundreds of bottles and you can make yourself a very worthy and productive solar water heater. Total: 300-500 rubles a maximum (!!!), and you are hot water all season!
* * *
Experimenting with elements of the flow - cumulative solar water heater from plastic PET bottles, I somehow noticed that the temperature of the dark (brown) bottle of beer, even to the touch higher than that of transparent water. It came across me to make a simple experiment with bottles of different colors and species, in order to identify the most effective of them from the point of view of heating.
At the very beginning, I thought that there was no better water bottle, rather than transparent. The sun warms the water directly, without intermediaries. How I was mistaken! The very first results of the experiments dispelled my theories in the fluff and dust.

The conditions for conducting the experiment were simple. I just put a number of bottles at the shed wall, which is facing about southeast. Since the conditions for all bottles were completely the same, I did not heat them in any way and oriented. Those. That is the case, in Spartan conditions, this used Pet Patra and should have shown its true character.

Bottles were prepared according to the list in the table. At the same time I used the following considerations.

1) It was implied that the shielding of the rear (unlit part of the bottle) aluminum foil will reflect the irrigated water rays and reflect them back into the bottle.

2) Furning the back of the bottle (rubber-bitumen mastic from an aerosol can) will allow "absorb" those who passed through the bottle of IR rays. One of the bottles was dried completely, i.e. From all sides and became black and matte.
Everything was done on the eve and the next day all the bottles met the dawn at the venue of the experiment. The ambient temperature was taken into account (in the shadow of nearby) and the wind blowing bottles.

The sun on this day shone through a small haze, i.e. It did not give a complete heat, but since everyone was in equal terms, it can not be considered.
The results of this experiment are shown in the table. By the way, if someone thinks that water in 52 degrees is "so-so" - try to hold your hand in it, at least 2 minutes ... only inquiring a larger Mazi more ... And at the same time, measure the temperature of hot water from the crane in the apartment. It is unlikely that it will be much higher.


What conclusions can be done?

1. Actually transparent water is a very bad absorber of IR rays. They practically pass through it without lingering. As you can see, a transparent bottle remained the "cold". Heating can be safely attributed due to the non-absolute transparency of the bottle itself, rather than direct water heating in it.

2. The presence of foil on the rear wall of the bottle as weakly affects the heating. I do not know why. It is possible to heat only on the front wall of the bottle, possibly foil except the reflector lenses also performs the role of the radiator - the cooler.

3. Transparent with a shredded bottom looks much better (by 8%). But obviously, the change in the angle of lighting the sun began to be affected. As the illumination angle changes, the area of \u200b\u200bthe rear absorbing surface has been changed.

4. It was the fullenticated bottle better than everyone. The black matte surface almost completely absorbed the IR rays. And since the PET bottle is round, the lighting angle has no fundamental importance.

5. The bottles of dark plastic also showed themselves very well. This suggests that the absorption of heat PET bottles is mainly the side facing the sun. And very weak - actually "insides" of bottles (water). And at all in any way - the back side.

This allows us to conclude that the solar collector from plastic PET bottles should actually be.
It must be a box, with a well insulated bottom where PET bottles are laid.

The side of the bottles facing the Sun must be burned out by any matte paint (the same "Kuzbass lacquer" or rubber-bituminous mastic). From above, the box is close or thin glass, or tightened with a polyethylene film, to protect against wind.
This design of the solar flow or cumulative heater from PET bottles will be the most efficient. By the way, the same results allow you to estimate the design and most effective "classic" water heater. It is obvious that his "mirror" does not necessarily have to be transparent. And if it is transparent - then the "bottom" must be absolutely heat-absorbing.
Now let's talk about the "place" of such a heater in the system of cottage water supply hot water.
Of course, the presence on the roof of this heater does not ensure that you will have hot water. There are also prolonged bad weather, and at night, especially in demi-season, water will be very cooling in such a heater.

I think that a similar water heater performs 2 functions.

A) Allows you for the "living pennies" to make sure that solar water grew is possible and this reality. After all, not everyone will decide that with the bay-junctions to build a solar collector, putting into solid money for the sake of the ephemeral economy of electricity, firewood, money. This water heater will pay off for 500 rubles per season and will let you feel the charm of the moment.

B) this water heater will really save money in the form of firewood, electricity, gas, etc. Working as a water treatment system for any industrial water heater.

Consumption of hot water in every family your own. But in any case, it should be always. Therefore, as soon as the water heating in the solar collector ends, it should be immediately sent to a well-thermally insulated drive from which the hot water consumption occurs. In the same drive, a TEN must be installed, which will allow hot water to get hot water during the period of prolonged bad weather. Either it can be brought to wood water.
But in any case, the actual solar water heater is only part of the hot water preparation system. Then hot water will be in the house or soul always and around the clock. Although of course it can be used in itself. Just hot water will be ready for dinner.

"Encyclopedia of Technologies and Methods" Plukh V.V. 1993-2007


When it is hot on the street, the number of such garbage as plastic bottles is significantly increasing. These are bottles from mineral water, from juices, beer and a lot of other. One author was proposed a way as this material can be used when creating a very useful homemade. It is about such a device as a solar collector that allows you to get hot water from solar energy.

The author of this homemade was the Brazilian named Jose Alano. Its feature is that such a collector is able to actively work both when sunrise and sunset. The thing is that the sun's rays penetrate through the bottle and heat the water. If we talk about collectors with glass, then there the solar rays are reflected from the surface, if not undergoing at an angle of close to 90 degrees.

Materials and tools for homemade:
- plastic bottles (their number depends on the scale of the collector);
- Tetra Pak from juice or milk;
- PVC pipe with an external diameter of 20 mm and tees (you can use a copper tube, but it is expensive material);
- cardboard;
- stationery knife;
- black heat-resistant paint;
- scissors;
- Cumulative tank.


The process of manufacturing a manifold:

Step one. Preparation of bottles
To create a collector, the bottles of the same form are needed, so you need to try a little and find their suitable quantity. It is necessary so that you can insert a bottle of each other in a friend, thus the chain of bottles is formed.

When the bottles are found, you need to wash them and remove the labels. Then the cardboard is taken and the template is made of it. Subsequently, using this template, the bottles need to cut off the lower part at the specified level. It is convenient to make a stationery knife.


Step second. Making absorber
To make the absorber need a packag of milk or juice (tetra Paka). Packages need to rinse well, because the contents when heating will scatter, and it will make an unpleasant smell. After drying, the material is cut as indicated in the pictures. After that, it must be painted with black paint (heat-resistant).


Step Three. Collect the collector
The heat exchanger is assembled from PVC pipes, the diameter of which is 20 mm. For these purposes, it is necessary to use only those pipes that are intended for hot water supply. Corners and tees in the upper part are connected using glue for PVC. To increase the manifold efficiency, the pipes need to paint black.







The design is assembled as follows. First you need to take a bottle and put it on a bottle of neck forward. Then the absorber (tetra pack) is taken and inserted into the bottle until it stops. The length of the pipe is about 105 cm, with the number of bottles on it assembled in this way should not be more than five.

Step fourth. Collector installation
To install the collector, you will need a wooden or metal support. It needs to be deployed so that the sun falls on it, you need to navigate in the southern direction.




So that water can circulate naturally, the tank must be placed in terms of the level above the collector. Now cold water will fall down, as it is harder, and the hot will expand and enter the tank. The distance from the collector to the tank should be at least 30 cm, then the circulation will pass with the desired intensity. Thanks to this approach, no pumps will be needed. The tank must be inspired to reduce thermal losses.

Another system can be equipped with a turbulent gearbox. It is necessary for hot water to enter the tank smoothly and without pressure, while mixing smoothly with cold. It is made of a bottle with a closed bottom, it needs to make a number of holes.