If you can not imagine your life without harassing in nature, you are interested in hunting or fishing, go to the alloy or from time to time you choose long trips, then the topic of survival should be interesting for you. After all, any, even with the form of a harmless way into the forest, is inextricably linked with extreme conditions.

You need to be prepared for everything, so you should take more than seriously. In his campaign arsenal, you definitely does not hurt a knife for survival. Of course, in the campaign you can do and usually, but it is worth considering it as an option.

The theme relative to the survival knives is already so rejected that add something new is quite difficult. But we still try. There are both supporters and opponents of this type of knives. Opponents lead a bunch of arguments about the actual uselessness of a knife for survival - they say, why do you need all these pribruda like saws on the outer, which is not really scolding, the compass showing it is not clear that a disposable file, a naz in a hollow handle and much more.

Maybe in something they are right, but should be remembered that this is, first of all, the knife survival. And the maximum benefit of this knife is manifested in the most extreme conditions. When you won't be at hand, neither the ax, nor saw, then this, seemingly useless, the pedel will greatly facilitate the survival process.

As for the basis of Naz, the storage of him in the hand is fully justified, because you always hold the knife with you, and you are not the best option to clarify the emergency reserve for pockets. Yes, and you need to manage to lose the knife, it is much easier to lose everything else. Disadvantages can always be found, but in fact, survival knives have its advantages.

Let's list their advantages:

• The survival knife is good in that they can be performed by work that will be difficult to carry out a conventional knife. With the help of it, you can easily put a pinch pinch for the crossbar, it is perfect for riding stakes and cutting rather thick branches. The knife of survival is great for you in the construction of shelters (cutting branches for shala). If you wish, it can be used as a shovel for the coppe.
• Whatever they say, it is possible to attribute to advantages in the handle or in the sheath. It is unacceptable to put it on pockets or stored in a backpack, and so wherever you go and whatever you do, the knife of survival you always carry with you and in an extreme situation without a ана you will definitely not stay. Using Nazi, you can breed fire, repair clothes, to provide yourself or someone minimal medical care.
• Thirdly - this knife will be excellent, as a means for self-defense, you will be able to repulse a wild animal. It is also perfect for hunting and they can be easily divided by the carcass of the dead beast.
• With the help of this knife you can make various tools of labor, tool or weapons from the tree - cut the baton, sharpening a spear, to build a paddle.

Well, there are disadvantages, where so without them:

• Poor suitable for cooking. No, clean the potatoes with it will succeed, but considering the size of the knives for survival, it will be very difficult to do it.
• Indeed, the presence of a compass on the handle loses any meaning if the handle itself is not made from the non-magnetic alloy. Yes, and when performing impact work, you need to be neat so as not to knock on this place.
• I don't drink a saw on the outer a lot - as a rule, the teeth are almost not divorced and there is a big risk of damaging your hand when sawing.

Survival knife design

In most cases, survival knife has a hollow handle that serves as a penalty for the ladder. Let many believe that the knife strength with a hollow handle is worse than a knife with a shank passing through the entire handle, we disagree with this. If the product is done qualitatively, it will be quite strong and reliable.

Sometimes it is not placed in a knife, but in a scabbed, entirely, or partly, as a rule, these are various auxiliary pieces like a bar for sharpening, a signaling mirror or many other useful things.

The knife blade can be smooth or sir. In our opinion, it is better to use the standard smooth blade, in which one is easier to sharpen it. On the knife, there is almost always a teeth (a fender), with which you can make a small cut in a tree, bone or even metal (depends on the step and laying of teeth).

The survival knife may have a different form, a lot of factors affect this - geography and climate of use, independent choice of owner and the specificity of survival.

What is usually included in the list of survival knife:

Compass. Can be located on the handle or on the sheath. Means for breeding fire. It is usually a light, a lighter, somewhat impregnated with wax matches and dry fuel. Threads. From Capron and ordinary. Minimal fishing set (5 meters of fishing line, loaded and hooks) needle set (surgical and usual for sewing clothes), several pins, tweezers. Water to disinfection - Tablets or manganese. Medical set and leucoplasty.

This is an exemplary set of аз, each completes it at its discretion. Additional elements can be a whistle, a magnifying glass, a sharpening stone, a mirror-heliograph, blade, a small knife.

Let's consider the most popular models for survival knives.

Aitor Jungle King II

King of Jungle 2 is one of the most popular survival knives. It is manufactured by the Spanish company Aitor.

Knife characteristics:

• Blade. Length - 13.5 cm. Steel is a stainless chromoliben-vanadium. The hardness of steel is 54 HRC.
• Lever. Hollow, hermetic, inside is located.
• Naz. The kit includes needles and pins, fishing gear, blade, pencil, leukoplasty, tweezers, fire, harness, mirror, knife skinner, grinding lump.
• On the sheath wound cordYou can use for different needs, a small skinner type knife can be opened with cans, remove the skin with animals, and they can also use as dumping or chairs for the fire.

In principle, a good survival knife. Very multifunctional, high-quality and reliable. A compass is built into the handle stop, which will help to navigate in the forest. Sometimes he shows nonsense, but mostly working. Knife Skinner can not only open beer bottles - accumulated to the stick, it is easily turning into a stort. On the sheath there are folding horns for a slingshot (you can shoot small game).

On Jungle King II, there is a saw, it saws pretty good, especially dry tree. There is no comments to the cutting part of the knife - it cuts quite well. The only one, when the meat cuts, sometimes stops Garda, but this is a trifle. The weight of the knife is 460g, it is the mass of all the set, in principle, quite light (this is due to the fact that the handle is hollow).

Some are considered for the lack of knife dimensions, the length of all the knife is almost 30 cm (27.5), and if they also take into account the sheath, it turns out quite impressive sizes of the unit (uncomfortable with sock on the belt). The molding of the blade in the handle is reliable, the method of fastening - the blade is recessed into the handle on 35mm and is fixed in it in a transverse sleeve.

Survival knife HB-1-01

This blade occurred from the Basurmann army knife. According to characteristics and appearance, looks like the Jungle King described above.

Knife characteristics:

• Blade. Fleshy. The length is 16 cm, width 3 cm, thickness 4 mm. Mark steel blade - 8khf.
• Lever. Hollow, with a title inside. Material - steel.
• Naz. The standard set is this - fishing gear (hooks, fishing line, loaded), needle + threads (3 meters), set for breeding fire (3 hunting matches + chirkach for matches), 1 pin, seer, tablets for water disinfection.
• Sheath. The sheaths have a hinge device separated by cavity. On one half wound a cord. In the second cavity, there is a saw (10 cm long) and a small knife skinner, which can open bottles and cans, it will also replace the score and wrench. Also on the sheath there is a cutter for reducing the wire and the built-in compass.
• Weight and dimensions. The weight of the knife with a complete set - 750 grams, the total length in the sheath - 33 cm.

Well, now the parsing of flights. In principle, the HB-1-01 knife is quite suitable for hiking travels and small shafts on nature, but for extreme conditions you need to look for something more serious. According to personal experience and reviews of the owners of this knife, the following conclusions can be drawn - steel is not very good quality, it is bad, prone to corrosion, the boring is quickly well.

It is advisable to completely change the name on your own, because the quality of the standard set is also not very. The handle is uncomfortable round shape. The blade is fixed in the handle quite reliably, but in the passport it is written that the load on the breakdown is only 30 kg., That also makes you think.

But here the sheath are really good, a very simple and functional suspension system is thought out here. Even the advantages can be attributed to the presence of a compass on a knife, but on the sheath. In general, you can decide whether you should acquire such a knife, there are craftsmen who are finalized and eliminated some disadvantages themselves in the course of operation, but think if you need such hemorrhoids.

FallkNiven S1.

FallkNiven S1 - Excellent Swedish Survival Knife. Initially, the US Air Force crews was originally created.

Knife characteristics:

• Blade. The blade is 130 mm long, 5mm thick. Excellent three-layer Japanese steel, central layer of steel VG-10, steel plated from steel 420. Steel hardness - 59 HRC.
• Lever. Material - Thermorun. At the bottom there is Garda. The material is very durable and pleasant to the touch.
• Weight and dimensions. The weight is 190. The total length is 247 mm. Pretty compact and easy thing.

FallkNiven S1 is a survival knife without any extra addicts. Perfectly cuts, almost not stupid, it is easily sharpened, not subject to corrosion, does not scratch. A small handle gives more freedom to manipulate the knife. It comes complete with leather sheath.

This knife + some good multitool is the most excellent option for the real survival. Such a knife is good both in everyday life and in extreme conditions.

Wildsteer WX.

Wildsteer WX is a knife survival of a famous French firm. The manufacturers themselves master their brains with a folding tactical survival knife.

Knife characteristics:

• Blade. The length of the blade is 10 cm, the thickness is 4.5 mm. Steel - brand X46CR13 (our Russian analogue - steel 40x13).
• Lever. Material - stainless steel, length - 16 cm.
• Weight and dimensions. The weight is only 270 grams, and the total length in the decomposed state is 26 cm.

The main feature of Wildsteer WX is a unique patented lock of the lock of the blade - WX Lock. This retainer is so reliable that in the open form, this unit can be bolded to be called a knife with a fixed blade.

SOG D25.

Another very interesting option is Sog D25 survival knife. This knife is more like a dagger, he has a double-sided sharpening and a spear shape. The base of the blade on both sides has a scene.

Knife characteristics:

• Blade. The length of the blade is 14 cm, the thickness is 4.5 mm. Steel - 440A, hardness is 56-58 HRC.
• Handle. Made of wood and has a very compact size - 11.5 cm. Plastic Garda is quite impressive, she will definitely not let the hand on the blade.
• Weight and dimensions. He hangs this dagger of 240 grams and has a total length of 27 cm.

Perhaps this knife should be considered not as a knife of survival, but as a combat. Although why not, a good survival and the application will find it. But agree, this copy looks quite exotic.

Mora 2000.

And this handsome man from the Morakniv family - Mora 2000. This Swedish knife can be used both in extreme tourism and domestic needs. The main feature of this blade is that from the middle of the blade the thickness of the knife decreases. Mora 2000 is a great option for survivalors, tourists, hunters and fishermen.

Knife characteristics:

• Blade. The length of the blade is 10.5 cm. Material - Sandvik steel (brand 12C27), steel hardness - 58 HRC.
• Handle. Plastic, cast, zonor-cutted.
• Weight and dimensions. The weight of the knife is 100 grams, the total length is 22.3 cm.
• Sheath. Made of very durable plastic, there is a leather tape for wearing a knife on the belt.

This knife has proven itself among the survivalors, they can easily be separated by meat, to distort the firewood, it easily opens cans and the blade after that nothing is done, there is nothing like the slightest scratch. Again, this option + multitool and you will not disappear anywhere.

SURVIVALIST X D2 Gray Titanium

Consider another survival knife. Another option with a hollow handle for Naz. Included with it are very interesting sheaths with the Molle system.

Knife characteristics:

• Blade. The length of the blade is 18.5 cm, the width is 3.8 cm, the thickness is 4.9 mm. Material - Steel Stainless steel brand D2, steel hardness - 59-61 HRC.
• Handle. Duraluminum, hollow.
• Weight and dimensions. The weight of the knife is 385 grams (with sheath 530), the total length is 31.5 cm.

Excellent survival knife in its class. Good steel, comfortable sheath, on the outer blade there is a special SCOS, designed to cut bones. Also, the knife is easily turning into a spear, it is only necessary to spin the plug of handle and insert the stick of the corresponding diameter into it. In general, the knife is pretty cute, although the opponents of the hollow handles and similar rambids will find the disadvantages in this knife. But here everyone is his own.

Here, in principle, we will finish our review of the survival knives. Very soon we will prepare full-fledged tests on specific models of the best survival knives. We also collected for you a good selection of video on this topic. You will see video reviews on specific NV models, waders will share with you their experience, will tell about the merits and disadvantages of certain survival knives.

The Fortis team is scientists, writers, clairvoyant, Ufologists, who gathered together with the sole purpose: to solve the secrets of the Russian land.
Strong not only in spirit and physically, but also knowledge, many spheres of which today only open the thinking part of humanity .... Read more ...

Survival knife with your own hands

As already mentioned, now the purchase of a survival knife does not cause big problems, if it were not for one "but": a good knife can hardly hit the pocket, and bad - to bring in the most inappropriate moment. As a rule, inexpensive knives are made in the Middle Kingdom, and the quality of their metal we all know well. If you want to still get a good survival knife with a practically gift, then the only way out is to make a knife with your own hands from the available materials. And we will help you in this. It is worth noting that professional masters-shelters use special devices and tools for their masterpieces, we will limit the minimum set of tool that will be found in any garage. To work, we will need:

Power and / or ESM (Bulgarian);
Grinding machine and / or nozzle on a drill;
Set of naughty;
Sandpaper of different grainability;

The most important thing in the knife, as is known to everyone - the blade. Steel for the blade of the survival knife must be sufficiently solid, to keep sharpening well, but not fragile, and give away in field conditions. The optimal option will be alloyed tool steel having a hardness after hardening 57-60 units on the Rockwell scale (HRC). A suitable workpiece can be purchased in the store tools or in the construction market.
For this master class for the manufacture of a survival knife, we purchased a suitable tool from steel, grade 95x18 in the construction market, 5 mm thick. Since the workpiece was partially ordered, it was released, heating with a gas burner on a brick to about 500 degrees and leaving cooling on it. After vacation, the metal becomes plastic and is easier to handle.
After purchasing the workpiece, you need to draw a sketch of the future knife. To do this, you can use a graphic editor, but you can simply break the workpiece with a pencil or make marking directly on the blade. We will use the game installation and combined set handle, therefore, for reliability, the shank is left for a long 3/4 handle. The form, thickness and size of the blade and the hospital in our case are due to the existing sheath, so for your own survival knife you can choose a form based on your fantasy, limiting it only by the strength characteristics of the selected billet and its size.

After the workpiece is marked, we attach the shape of the blade on the sandpaper, we form the descent and cut the shank. After turning the blade, it is necessary to graze sandpaper. To do this, fix it for a clamp tail on a wooden bar and processed by sandpaper, strictly in one direction, moving from large to small, periodically wasting with water. For the grinding of this blade, sandpaper 3M with grain with grain 120, 240, 400, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 2500 was used in series. In principle, at this stage, it is not necessary to grind the blade with an abrasive thinner than 1200.

Now you can go to hardening. The necessary modes of heat treatment for each, the concrete steel grade can be found in the table or in reference books. Steel, 9x18, used on our blade, is tempered at a temperature of 1050 degrees, followed by cooling in oil. Accordingly, for self-hardening of the blade, oil is needed and a high temperature source. Oil can use any mineral, which is not a pity. In this case, it was a transmission TNK. For heating, a similarity of Horn was used.
It should be noted important nuances that need to be taken into account when heating the blade:
- It is necessary to ensure the uniformity of heating. To do this, it is best to put the blade on the volatile and to roaring coals on both sides.
- Air served on the side, and in no case on the blade.
- The heating temperature of the blade can be determined visually, on this table, but for better hardening it is necessary to use a pyrometer.

After heating to the required temperature, we remove the blade from the mountain to any suitable tool and quickly omit in the oil.

After the blade is completely cooled, we take out, wipe and, let it be searched for several hours, go to the next important stage - vacation. After hardening the blade acquires the necessary hardness, but becomes fragile, and if you do not spend your vacation, then the cutting edge can begin to sharpen. Vacation mode, as well as hardening mode, is determined by tables and reference books for each steel grade. For our 9x18, vacation is required at a temperature of 150 degrees: that is, it is enough to withstand the blade in a preheated oven the necessary time, after which it is to give slowly cool. The temperature of heating can be determined by the color of passion, in accordance with this table.
After heat treatment, the blade is spinning and form the cutting edge. In addition, you can decorate the injury blade, or put the pattern galvanically. About how to do this - read on. Our blade was treated in vinegar.

When the blade is fully prepared, we are soaring it with painting scotch, so as not to cut your hands and do not scratch, and go to the installation of the handle.
In front of the manufacture of handles, survival knife must be decorated with form and material. The knife, which we collect, is intended for the girl, so they do not make handle and most beautiful as possible, based on the materials available. We used:

Copper plates of different thickness for the manufacture of the hospistra, penny and spacer;
Rog roe;
Multicolored fiber for gaskets (can be replaced with dense diembly paper);
Tree for handles. For the arms of their knives survival, we choose the cap or suwel birch. This material is very beautiful, durable, and has a wonderful energy.

In addition, you will need:

So, the material is selected, the blade is ready - proceed to the manufacture.
The first thing that will be needed is a friend. For it, we use a thick copper plate. At the request of the future owner of this Survival Knife, the Britis and the goggle are decorated under Mokum (how to do it - is described on), here we will tell you how to make a combuary from a simple copper plate. It's not hard. We draw an alleged friend on the cardboard, cut out, simply cut, repeat until you like it. Then we translate the resulting shape on the copper plate and cut out with a grinder or cut down the chisel, we draw on the sandpaper. Now it is necessary to make the landing hole. To do this, place it on the template and drill several holes:

After that, cut the partition chisel and equalize the shape and size of the appliances. Grind. Polishing. Bruce is ready.

Now let's make a stroke from the horns. We cut off a piece of horns of the desired size, place and form the landing hole - drilling and choose the extra supfyl:

We collect everything on the blade:

And give approximately the shape on the sandpaper or the sandmashin, leaving about 0.5 mm on the final processing.

In the same way, as well as the Britis, we make a copper spacer, only the planes are not grinding, but slaughtered a large sandpaper, or some other tool so that the surface is rough and better glued. Cut from fiber or paper all the necessary spacers. We form in the bar of the cabin the landing hole. There are many ways to do this, but the simplest - drill a few parallel holes and the same drill to remove jumpers. The main thing about to constantly check the landing so that in the end the shank in it is completely, but enough tight and without the backlash. We put all the surfaces ready for finishing, so as not to smear the glue and do not scratch.

Pour the glue into the seating hole in the Cape, planted on the shank, removing the flowing glue, remove, lubricate the shank with glue, add a bit into the hole, and they are finally planted, without squeezing very much. Let us lie down the whole design of 10 - 15 minutes so that the glue absorbed into the tree and paper, and compress the clamp for a couple of days. Usually the glue completely harvested after 24 hours, but it is better to hold everything under the press for some time.

When the shape of the handle is removed, we make a tick. Copper plate cut it on the template. Shipping pins of thick copper wire. Wine best of all reflecting PSR or copper-phosphoric. Drills in handle holes.

Cut the right number of spacers and collect everything together. Do not forget to keep the handle with painting scotch.

Now glue everything with epoxy and clamp into the clamp per day. When the resin hardens, we calculate the tick, not overheating, on the grinding, or better in the old manner - without a typewriter - a file, we take the final form.

We proceed to the final processing. Entry paper P180 - P240 remove large scratches and irregularities. Smaller - smoothing the surface and redeem the R600 grain. After processing it, we cover the wooden part with a water vehicle with aqueous vehicle, with a brush or tampon, and let dry a few hours.

When dried, we proceed with the stenched P1000 and again cover the veneer. So repeat with the sandpaper P1500 - R 2000 - P2500. After processing P2500, the verses do not cover. The surface becomes smooth and smooth. Watering the metal parts of the handle of paste gay, trying not to stain a tree and horn.

Now it is necessary to impregnate with flaxseed oil in order to show texture of the tree and protect against moisture. This can be done by immersing some, quite long, time to handle in a container with oil, or a brush, periodically boiling, soaked, putting on polyethylene. It is impregnated until the oil stops absorbed. After the impregnation, we leave the knife for several days until the oil is dry.

After the oil is completely dried, densely rub on a bee wax ...

So we get a high-quality and beautiful survival knife with minimal material costs. In addition, in a knife for the survival, made with their own hands, you can always be sure, since all its properties you specify yourself - in the process of manufacturing and selecting materials.

The last stage in the process of manufacturing a knife of survival with their own hands is sharpening. Immediately arrange: it is possible to sharpen a knife without special devices, but it is better not to hope for a special quality. If there are no fixtures for sharpening and set bars with different graininess, it can be done with all the same sandpaper. Restore the band of about 40x150 mm, put it on the wooden bar and sharpen it. For relatively high-quality sharpening, it is advisable to walk the sandpaper P240 - P400 - P600 - P1200 - P200 - P2500.

knife for survival with your own hands- Beautiful practice for any survival. And there are two approaches about which we will tell below. The first is a knife is a knife. With the help of the necessary tools, taking into account the choice of materials and processing methods, and the second is the manufacture of a survival knife with their own hands from the girlfriend, under wildlife. What, you see, closer to the real conditions in which any of us may be
1st way to make a knife for survival with your own hands
So, in the first case, to make a knife of survival, you will need a blank, a file (Bulgarian with a grinding circle), a hacksaw for metal, a drill, a rivet material (copper rods for example), a blank for handle and sandpaper. As for the workpiece, it is possible to use a car refrigerator or a file as it. Outline the contours of the future blades with a pencil and gently drill a row of holes along the entire length. Also drill handle for rivets. So easier and faster will cut the desired form. After that, using a file to treat edges, removing irregularities. Now we already have a finished form. Note the cutting edge and start toaching it with a flat file consuming the workpiece in the vice. Divide the fire and while it burns to process the workpiece with sandpaper. Using long blacksmith pliers (or their analog) Put the knife in the corner. For successful hardening, you will need 10-15 minutes. You can check with a conventional magnet: if the steel is magnetic, the knife is not ready yet. Do not forget about the temperature and do not touch the knife with your own hands. Cool the finished knife in the oil. In order for the cutting edge does not crumble apply the procedure known as vacation. To do this, wipe the knife dry and place it in the oven at a temperature of 350_400 degrees and "Bake" minutes of forty. Give naturally cool and repeat the procedure. On the finish, pass the surface for the subsequent binding to secure your corrosion knife. It's time to go handle. Attach your knife to the handle and circuit and circuit out the contour. Drink the lobsiko and sand. Alleged, also through knife applications, rivet holes and drill a future handle. All, now with the help of epoxy resin and rivets, construct your knife and handle together. Eaughty for survival with your own hands is ready!

2nd way to make a knife for survival with your own hands
The second method will come to your aid in the absence of suitable materials and tools. In other words, under conditions where you have to survive. If you correctly determine the necessary functions that such a knife must perform, the resulting result will not be very reflected by the real knives. In fact, to, for example, an abhoring an animal carcass can be used even a sharp stone fragment. And if it is also correctly processed, it will turn out the most real knife for survival with your own hands. Choose a suitable one-piece of stone - it must be small to handle less and less comfortably lying in his hand. Suitable seedling can be mined and swarming the stone on the stone. If possible, choose stones with glossy scolf - they are the hardest. Now you need a piece of bones that should be made sharp from one end. Processing consists in strong pressing with a turn towards sharpening. Put the stone on something soft and elastic. The thick bark is well suitable. For a scraper it is necessary to sharpen one storm of the cutting edge. After all, it will be written to them about how a secure razor. Classic, flat knife, can be made by cold forging. To do this, you will need a blank in the form of an iron plate. If you are going to find such a thing to find, then we take one side with a hammer (its analogue). The material is compacted and a solid cutting edge appears. If you manage to make the likeness of a dynamo machine with sufficient current, then the iron blank can be treated with electrolysis. In parallel the edge of the blade, in the plane plane, we install the wire along the contour and connect the plate to the plus, and the wire to minus. Lower it all in a 25% salt solution and turn on. Due to the uneven dissolution of the plate, a small cutting edge is formed. With the deficiency of materials, the simplest knife for survival can be made with their own hands from the tree. Using a sharp stone or scraper for processing described above, or any other solid object.

Imagine that you were in an emergency when something threatens your life and health. What knife for survival in this case is best to have? Honestly, you would be glad to any knife. However, if you are currently reading this article, then you have a habit of thinking about the coming and planning. And hypothetical emergencies are unlikely to find you surprise with empty pockets. Moreover, you will most likely be with you not an old rusty pocket knife, but something more serious.

We all have their own personal preferences regarding what the "good knife" means for hiking in nature. And in an extreme situation, you would certainly want to get the best possible options. Therefore, in this article we will try to compile a list of the best knives for survival, so that you can choose the most suitable for yourself.

However, we will talk about ...

What is a knife for survival?

A survival knife is a universal tool designed for everyday outdoor use and for applying in real conditions of survival in the wild (as, in fact, and the name). It should be suitable for most camp work, among which is to arrange the shelter, breeding fire, cooking, the manufacture of various traps, digging the earth, as well as much more. In addition, it must be suitable for self-defense and hunting (nominally - for the bad animals and cutting them).

Speaking in general, a knife with a fixed blade and a fullttang type shank is a much more successful choice as a knife survival, rather than a knife with a skiing shank or, moreover, a folester. After all, by virtue of its versatility, the knife of survival may experience very serious loads that can fail the folding knife or lead to an oblast thin shank at a light fixed.

How to choose the right of the survival knife: 8 important points that should be paid attention to.

Below we will look at several important points that must be considered when choosing a knife for survival, because it is they define its convenience, reliability and versatility under wildlife. For your convenience, we have made a list with references for a quick transition:

1. The type of blade - how to choose the right knife blade for survival?

Recommended Types of Blade Profiles: A - Clip Point (Clip Point), B - Spear Point (Spear Point), C - Drop-Point (Drop-Point).

When you choose a survival knife, it is worth remembering what it is for what it is intended. After all, being one on one with wildlife, it will have to use it to the maximum, and in this case, such a factor as the form of the blade plays a latter role.

Among the numerous current forms and variations of blades should be preferred by three, namely - clip Point, spear Pointu and drop-Point. The reason for this is the location of the level of the isge close to the median (conditional) line of the blade, thereby improving the control of the knife and, as a result, its versatility.

According to these parameters, knives with a clip, alcohol and drop-point exceed the knives with a straight mist, not to mention other types of blade.

Experienced Wildlife Survival Wizards share all survival knives for three large categories, depending on their sizes and destination: Tesakov, camp knives, bushwood knives / utilitarian survival knives.

Tesaki.

The first category includes knives with a clinful length of more than 10 inches (25 cm), with a balance shifted to the blade and (ideally) flat descents. As steel for these knives, the brands 1095, 5160 or 440С are most often selected. In addition, the handle of Tesakov should be ergonomic, textured and must be kept well even in wet hand.

Camp knives

Camping knives are medium-sized knives (the minimum size of their blade is about 5 inches). The perfect balance for such a knife is in the Garda area, and the descents will fit both straight and concave. The handle should also be ergonomic, well lying in your hand and allow you to perform a variety of actions. This category of knives is the most universal, and can be applied on most of the work - from the cutting of game and cooking food to light roasting.

Utilitarian knives, knives for bushkraft

The utilitarian knives, Bushkraft knives are small knives (with a blade in the area of \u200b\u200b4 inches, and sometimes even less) and flat descents. Ideal for accomplishing small woodwork, devices of traps, etc.

2. Fixed or Folder?

Of course, this is an excellent tool for EDC, but his main problem is that it is only good in the "peaceful" time, because it is not designed for serious loads. And his main problem is that it can be broken in a critical situation, it can be much easier than a knife with a fixed blade.
Cut foods or rent a fish / small bird and a folder, but to prepare the shelter when it is helped, to separate major prey or, especially, try to dig something or chop - it will be much more complicated and with a huge risk for the integrity of the knife.

This, of course, does not mean that the "survival" should not have a folding knife with him. Just the opposite - it is worth it, but exclusively as a backup and not in any way as the replacement of the main working fixed.

3. Form of the blade - how to choose it depending on the purpose of the knife

The blade shape (working / cutting edge, RK) of survival knife is also one of the fundamental factors when it is selected, since it directly affects the appointment of the knife and the convenience of its use in various situations.

Thus, the direct working edge is the most versatile and suitable for the fulfillment of most tasks that can be supplied under survival conditions.

The cutting edge with a recurrence is less universal, and also does not allow a number of work with high accuracy (for example, for neat removal of the skins it is better to use only knives with a direct RK). At the same time, recurrence allows us to quite accurately and less effort to perform a different objects with part of the blade located near the hospital, and also provides a stronger cut part of the blade, located near the island (compared to a similar knife, but with a straight working edge).

An example of the cutting edge with recurrence.

4. Length of the blade - how long should there be a knife for survival?

The choice of the correct length of the blade is an equally important factor than all the previous ones, since the knives of different sizes are intended to solve various tasks (this has already been mentioned above). Speaking about choosing one single survival knife, you can advise the length of the blade in the 9-inch area (20-22 cm).

Such length is still excessive for a more or less comfortable cutting of game and performing small works (for example, on the device of traps). But at the same time, it is already sufficient to carry out such tasks, like cutting branches and batoning.

5. Steel knife for survival. What to stop your choice?

The next important parameter when choosing a knife is the steel brand, from which it is made. It is important to decide on to choose a knife with a wedge of carbon steel or stop your choice in a stainless steel.

So, carbon steel They have the best sharp and easier right in the field, but at the same time rust even with a minimal amount of moisture. In turn, stainless steel It is practically not afraid of dampness and better hold sharpening, but at the same time they do not have such aggressive sharments, as well as more complex for sharpening in outdoor conditions.

In addition to the type, its hardness plays an important role. So, steel with hardness within 50-54 Rockwell is more durable than knives with high hardness, but at the same time weaker hold sharpening. Knives with hardness from 58 Rockwells and above well hold sharpening, but possess increased fragility (in addition, such knives will be difficult to sharpen "on the knee"). It is for this reason that the perfect hardness for the knife of survival is the hardness of 54 to 58 Rockwells.

It should be noted that if we are talking about powerful tesacles, intended mainly for cutting, then a preference should be preferred by low-carbon steel, tempered up to 50-54 units.

The brands of 1095, 5160, O1, A2 can be advised as good carbon steels for knives, as well as domestic instrumental steel series and spring steel 65g (especially for a chopping tool). As a good stainless steel, such brands like 440С, AUS8, AUS10 and even 420ns can be given.

6. Cline descents - how to give preference?

Various types of cutting edge profiles.

How well the survival knife cuts, it depends not only from good steel, but also from the geometry of his blade, namely descents. The most universal in this case are flat descents. They allow you to easily carry out all the basic operations, namely cutting, planing, splitting and cutting without risk to damage the blade. Close on their operating characteristics to flat descents are descents with a "saber" profile.

At the same time, choose as a universal knife to survive the blade with concave descents - it is categorically not worth it. Despite the fact that it may even better cut the products than the blade with flat descents, but for power works (for example - cutting) it is practically not suitable, because in soft wood it is good, and there is a real risk of choking whole pieces of blade ( And there is a lot of examples).

If we talk about lenzoid descents, then they are less universal, and to sharpen knives with such geometry in hiking conditions is also more difficult. For this reason, your choice should be stopped on knives with saber or flat descents.

7. SHAVELY - Solid or Ski?

The knife shank is the continuation of the blade, which goes inside the handle. And it is the point in which the shank enters into the handle is the weakest place of the knife. It is for this reason that a knife, calculated including the powerful work (as, in fact, and the knife of survival) should have a really durable shank running along the entire length of the handle, namely - Fulltang. And look for any compromises here there is no point. First, it is practically unrealistic to break such a knife (except in cases have flowed steel or local fatigue), and secondly, even with a broken handle (or rather handles) such a knife can continue to be used, which you can not say about knives with other types of shanks .

Close to Fulltang is a hidden shank (that is, coming almost throughout the volume of handles, but at the same time invisible outside). It ranks second in its reliability, as well as convenience in using a knife with a broken handle. Survival knives with a similar shank are also a good option, although it is still better to give preference to Fulltang.

8. Choice of knife handle

The last important factor when choosing a survival knife is the material of its handle. After all, if it cracks or, especially, splits into parts, the ease of use of the knife will fall sharply, and in some cases it cannot be applied at all.

Currently, in the first place in popularity is the material for the handle called "Mcage". It can be linen or hemp, and combines strength, durability to pollution and practically immunity to high humidity.

In second place are G-10 and Zytel. In its properties, they are close to McCare and are also an excellent material for the knob of survival knives. As you can see, the list of recommended materials does not include a tree. It is caused by the fact that it is more dependent on the drops of moisture and temperature, and also has a greater fragility than composite materials.

As a material of the handle for large Tesakov, we can advise rubber and rubber-like plastics, quenching vibrations and reduce the "return" currently operating on the hand, for example, Krayton or Hypalon. At the same time, embossed elements should be applied on the handle that improving the hold and preventing it slipping out of the wet hand.

That's all. In the next part, wait for the top 10 best knives for survival selected based on the criteria above.