How to make a retractable knife. How to make a folding knife yourself, where to start, the choice of blade material and handles, the manufacture of handlers, assembly of a self-made folding knife. Folding knife manufacturing procedure with their own hands

How to make or make an independently folding knife at home. Detailed schemes, drawings and phased production of homemade folding knives with their own hands

How to do or make an independently folding knife at home. Let's look at the main schemes, drawings and the phased production of folding knives with your own hands.

The modern "linear" castle was invented by Michael Walker in 1981. The most important thing is that Michael did, - this created an independent system of fixing a blade, having only one spring.

The lamellar spring of the lock not only blocks the blade in the open position, but also provides its reliable fixation in the closed. In addition, this lock allows you to open and close the knife with one hand. This invention in the full sense of the word changed the appearance of a modern folding knife. Honor him for it and praise.

Make an outline of a future design on paper or in some graphic editorial of this, I recommend cutting the blade patterns and handles from cardboard, cutting holes for an axis and braking the knife model with a nut with a nut. Now you can check how the knife closes and opens.

Choose the location of the retaining pin and check if its blade heel does not cling when folding. Choose the shape of the heel blade. This part is very important for the normal functioning of the knife, it should be calculated with special care. Please note that the supporting part of the heel, which will be in contact with the plate of the lock, should have a bracket of a stretch of 7-9 ° required for the "sample" of possible backlash.

The operation of the linear lock is based on three points forming a triangle - the strongest figure in nature. These are these three points: a swivel pin, a locking pin and a contact zone of support planes of the heel blade and a stopper (pressure plate). The transmission of the compressive force from the spring selects longitudinal backlays and leads the entire system into a rigid stress state.

In addition to the strength of the side pressure of the stopper itself, there are no elements in the design of the lock, which would be fixed by the blade in the closed position. For this reason, a small hardened steel ball from the bearing is additionally mounted in the stopper, which is a closed lock in a closed position.

Entering the jack of spherical shape on the heel of the blade, this peculiar retainer, using the force of the curved plate, holds the blade in the closed position from the spontaneous opening. The correct location of this ball retainer is very important for the functioning of the lock.

Mark on the mockup of the blade and the stop spring this place and check, not "pops up" the ball for the dimensions of the blade when folding.
Determine the location of the screws tightening the dice. Do not forget about the diameter of the fastener heads, which you will use to build a knife. Do not place holes too close to the edge of the handle. There may be spaced between the dies, or tubular racks are set - to solve you.

Well, the general geometry of the blade and dies is defined. It's time to move to the manufacture of a knife. First of all, select Materials.

For blade, a stainless steel is preferred, because When moisture gets inside the folds, moisture, not so easy to remove. Consequently, if there is something rust - it is delayed. If there is a thermist, able to work with high carbon alloyed stainless steel, then you are big lucky in life (at the level of happiness).

If not, you will have to work on the tempered material, and this is not easy. For drilling holes in a censum metal, I use a drill on ceramics and a glass with a sweep tip. It is necessary to work hard, on small revolutions, but carefully. You can finish the drill. And, of course, follow the heating of the part. Be sure to cool, otherwise it will be released. Remove the desired mold blade. I used the blades from the Professional Master series several times. They are slightly expensive than ordinary cuceries of this company, but made from Sandwick 12C27 or from 1.4110 from the cereal. This is steel.

For the dies, I recommend titanium, since it is sufficiently durable at low thick and has sufficient rigidity and spring properties. In addition, Titan is easy and not at all rust. Titanium processing has some features. With titanium should work at low speeds. For example, a plate of 4 mm I could not sink with a grinder, and with a hand with a manual metal - easily, though long. Threads in titanium need to slowly, with oil, every 0.5-1 turn back to return.

Detailed video, how to make a folding knife:

To cut the circuit of the lock spring in the lower cry, in the place of the alleged end of its end, drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, connecting them, I get there a hacksaw blade - and forward, not in a hurry, almost to the hole under the axis (in this place I also recommend drilling a small technological hole for a clear end of the propyl). It remains only to be powered by a stopper act. Here it is necessary that the stock remains, which is then removed when "setting up" the lock.

The second, the top, the plate has exactly the same dimensions (as a rule) as the bottom, but it should provide a recess under the hole for opening a knife.

All mating holes should be drilled by a package. Start with holes under the axis. Do not forget that the diameter of the holes under the fastening screws in the lower drench should be under the thread, and in the top under the diameter of the screw.

So, everything is carved and drilled. Choose, or do yourself, two washers from fluoroplast or bronze, which will be used as a bearing on the axis of rotation (folding) knife.

Insert the axis into the bottom of the groove, put a lock pin, washer, blade, and fold the future knife. If something does not match - pon the size of the place. It is necessary to do it very carefully and carefully. Well, everything matches everything!
On the locking spring of the bottom dice, mark the place for the ball and in this place drill a hole with a diameter by 0.1-0.2 mm smaller ball diameter. I use balls with a diameter of 1.5 - 2 mm, from the bearing. Then in the vice (laying a piece of crawled metal under the ball, otherwise it will "fit" in the sponge of the vice) insert the ball into the lock plate. The ball should appear out of about 0.5 mm (the thickness of the washer on the axis between the blade and the shock).

Next, with the help of a marker, you hover the place of the blade heel, where the ball will move and fold the knife several times / decompose the knife. A clear track from the ball will be visible on the blade. Rates from the place where it (next) ends 0.3 -0.5 mm drill the well into which the ball will go in the folded knife position. Carefully remove the plate in the right direction.

Collect a knife without an upper dice and pigere the lock (you have a stopper cut with a margin). Do it very carefully (remember Zhvanetsky). As soon as the lock "hooked" - stop. Collect the knife completely, with the top shuffer and try folding it several times / decompose it, attach the effort (as if you cut something). Do it several times. And set aside everything until tomorrow.

Speak with the thought that you made a knife. The next day will definitely find what to finish. Bring the castle to the Condition. The locking plate should not reach the upper end of the sequencing heel of the blade, otherwise it will "fall out" already up to the top dice and swap the lock.

If the spring turned out to be too tight (depending on the thickness and brand of the material applied), it is necessary to cut down the recess in its foundation so that the force of pressing for the opening of the knife is optimal (here each one is selected "in sensations").

In the catalog of its products for 2008, Cold Steel announced a new clink fixation system of a folding knife. Simply put, "folding" with a new castle. The new system is called "Tri-Ad Lock", and designed by Designer Andrei Deco.

A brief description of the castle begins with the words "undoubtedly, Cold Steel Makes The Safest, Strongest, Rocker-Lock Folders on the Planet!" - "Undoubtedly, Cold Steel has created a safer, strongest, corner-type castle on the planet!" Well, advertising is advertising and there is, as they say, "you will not praise myself ..."

But after two years, we made sure that it is about it. As there are also "convinced heretics," consider Tri-ad cheap marketing, and even the exploiting glorious design of "Back-Loca". Let's (before switching to torture and executions) Let's try to achieve renunciation, that is, to figure it out.

So - "Back Lock". We will understand how it is arranged, and why the blade unfolded and fixed by the rocker, under load swings - "backlash", in the vertical plane (blade plane). The backlash of these castles is a parable in the towns, and there is hardly a noheman, which does not know about him.

Fig. 1 Platform in the "Back Lock" lock, Ultimate Hunter knife (CS).

This drawback is due to the presence of a gap, the magnitude of the backliness depends on its value. The blade is fixed in the working position of the spike of the rocker set in the groove on the heel of the blade. The closure of the scheme, as can be seen from Figure 1, is carried out on the front (point A) and the lower (point c) of the groove and rocker surface. These two surfaces, plus the blade axis, provide three points of the supports necessary for the equilibrium state of the blade. The rigidity of the circuit depends on the spring spring (the power of the FPR). When working on the blade (FR reserve force), a torque transmitting pressure on both working surfaces of the rocker (points A, B) occurs.

In the case of well-made details, the gaps are not here and the backlash does not arise (in practice, the backlash is often found and during workload, it depends on the manner of the rocker execution by a specific manufacturer). With a folding load (force FC), the torque transmits pressure only to the lower working surface of the rocker, the blade loses the point of support A, and turns to some angle until the third point C, but already on the rear surface of the spike rocker. When removing the load, the blade will return to the working position under the action of the spring springs.

This backlash is a feature of the design. Implement the "Back Lock" scheme is completely without clearance, it is technically impossible.

Now consider Tri-Ad Lock.

Fig.2 Knife with Tri-Ad Lock lock in unfolded and folded. The basis is taken illustration from the CS catalog for 2008.

1 - blade; 2 - dice; 3 - axis blade; 4 - rocker; 5 - springs support; 6 - spring; 7 - the axis of the rocker; 8 - Stop pin.

As can be seen from Figure 2, new items have been introduced into the traditional "Back Lock" scheme (and I would say that only the idea remains from the backclocker).

The first, added a locking pin (8), due to which the blade and the rocker receive fixed points of the support on the front working surfaces, instead of the floating (point A) in the "Back Lock" scheme;

the second, the hole of the axis of the oval rocker, and the axis itself is round, respectively, the rocker has the ability to move back and forth;

third, the plane on which the rocker is in contact with the blade only one, and has a small angle "A", as if chosen inside;

fourth, large enough clearance "D", between the spike of the rocker and the "bottom" groove.

Fig.3 top down, the sequence of triggering the Tri-Ad Lock lock.

Figure 3, I tried "in the dynamics" to portray the final phase of the decay of the knife. Follow the interaction of structural elements.

As soon as the spike of the rocker slides from the cylindrical surface of the heel of the blade, it enters the groove and already curses (or say - can trust) the blade in the working position. Under the action of the spring springs, the spike becomes in place chooses all the available gaps. This is possible because it has a wedge-shaped form (the wedge is formed by the rear, beveled wall and an arcuate front working surface). Plus, the floating support of the axis of the rocker. The pushed spring, it can move forward or backward until the optimal, equilibrium state. Pay attention to how the clearance in the floating support of the rocker axis changes (Fig. 3).

As can be seen from the figure, all the elements of the scheme are closed without gaps - respectively, and the backlats ride uneasy. With that, points A, B, with which you contact the blade and the rocker, do not open from the loads on the blade. Moreover, this refluxing scheme will save efficiency even when developing will appear on the items. The rocker will simply drop slightly lower, the gap D for this is designed (see Fig. 2).

Fig.4 Reaction of the Tri-Ad Lock lock on the load.

How will the Tri-Ad Lock scheme be reacting for load? Very simple, take a look in Fig.4. During the workload (FR), the pressure, mostly, is perceived by a fixed locking pin (point A) and is transmitted with handles. With the folding (FC) - the same locking pin, but already through the spike of the rocker (point B). And here a positive role is played by the very corner of "A" (see Fig. 2) thanks to which the blade does not push the rocker upwards, and stronger presses it to the lock pin.

Fig.5, Fig. 6 Working Castle Castle Cold Steel Rajah II.

All above and suggests that it is the "Tri-Ad Lock" it is the next stage of the evolution of "Back Lock-A".

Choosing a knife, today increasingly give preference to the folding knife. It is understandable. If there is a need to always have a knife, then the folding knife is incomparably more convenient in everyday life.

Folding it almost twice, you can not fear that the knife cuts the bag, pocket, jacket, or any other item in which it will be. Nevertheless, each shebravan or sandpaper perfectly understands that folding knives are inferior by the strength of the incompetent conjunctions precisely because of the castle compounds. The castle in the folding knife is a vulnerable place and the weakest link. Therefore, when you choose a folding knife, you should pay attention not only on the blade of the blade, but also on the design of the castle.

The most simple check of the reliability of the castle

We want to offer you the easiest test for checking the strength of the locking mechanism before you take the final decision to buy a knife.

Take a knife in the open state and knock on the palm. At the same time, try to keep your hands in such a way that the blade blade with a sharp closing of the knife did not hurt your fingers. If with a rather strong tapping knife did not work out, it means that the castle passed the test.

As part of this article, we want to tell you about what kinds of castles are found in most of the most popular knives manufacturers.

Types of castles

The basis of this castle is a flat spring, which is a continuation of the liner. The mechanism of operation of the lock is that the spring when the knife is opened, rests in the blade shank. Choosing a knife with such a lock design, always pay attention to how deep the spring comes to the shank. Ideally, it should go to the distance, which is somewhat larger than the thickness of the spring itself.

This option of the castle is found quite often and well established itself in everyday use.

FrameLock (Integral Lock, Monolock)

The device of this lock is similar to the design of Liner Lock. Only in this modification of the locking plate is a knife handle. The housing of the handle is performed metallic, which increases the strength of the entire structure. In addition, holding a knife with hand, an additional fixation of the plate occurs.

Back Lock

Here, the fixation of the shank blade is carried out on the side of the footage using the spring-loaded rocker lever. The complexity of such a lock is that when it is made, it is necessary to precisely adjust the slot on the shank and part of the incoming rocker. Otherwise, the rocker may not be enough to enter the shank, and the blade will be badly fixed. Or, on the contrary, provided that the rocker will be fluent in the shank, the blade will be fused. A small gap is still provided for the design itself, but it must be perfect.

The more advanced design is the finalized model of such a castle, which was called Tri-AD Lock. Cold Steel, which spoke at the ancestor of this type of lock, introduced fundamental changes to its design. A stop pin was added, which began to take on all load during mechanical exposure. The engagement of the rocker and the groove in the shank changed their configuration, as well as the rocker axis became oval. All innovations qualitatively affected the strength of the product as a whole. At the same time, the rocker is arranged in such a way that, as the contacting parts of the knife, it will respectively change its position accordingly. As a result, the gap will save its sizes.

Compression Lock.

Combines elements Back Lock and Liner Lock. The difference in the design is that the LINER LOCK spring is pressed against the shank behind, and in the Compression Lock - on top. Another positive point is that the spring one side enters the shank, and the other side presses to the lock pin. Such a lock mechanism makes a knife completely safe, as, closing, blade blade in no way can hurt your fingers.

Levitator Lock.

Such a lock device can be used exclusively in knives with a metal handle. A special notch (pad) is carved on the handle in the form of a spring plate. When pressing this plate, the rod displacement occurs in the shank and the blade is released. Knives with locks of this design are manufactured by Benchmade.

Viroblock (coupling lock)

One of the most common variations of the locks, in particular, occurs in the TM Opinel knives. The blade is fixed due to the presence of a metal rotary clutch with a longitudinal section. Using the coupling, the blade is blocked. When the coupling is in the extreme position, it prevents the discovery of the blade. And when the knife is open, it is enough to turn the coupling in any direction to block the closure of the knife.

AXIS, ARC LOCK, ROLLING LOCK, ULTRA LOCK (Pottal locks)

Benchmade is patented by AXIS type lock device. At the heart of the lock mechanism lies the spine-like pin, with which the blade is fixed both in the closed and in the open position, which makes knives with such locks are completely safe, since the risk of random closure of the blade is excluded. Only dirt can be called from disadvantages that can accumulate in the grooves on the shank.

Another type of lock from the same company, ROLLING LOCK, also at the heart of its mechanism contains pin. Only it is completely immersed in the knife handle, and it is provided with the help of a M-shaped lever.

Arc Lock - This type of locks and knives produces SOG. The lock mechanism is largely identical to the AXIS design. The only difference is that the pin has an additional fastening inside the knife handle. This mount is carried out on the swinging rocker. This nuance in the castle device allowed the company to patent their invention.

The Ultra Lock manufacturer is Cold Steel. In the shank of the blade there is a U-shaped groove. The pin moves through this groove. The blade is fixed with the help of a locking rod that blocks, if necessary, as discovery, so closing the blade.

Button Lock, AXIAL LOCK (push-button locks)

Such a lock is used mainly in automatic knives. When you press the pin button, in the form of a spring-loaded button of the variable diameter, moves to the blade plane, resulting in the release of the blade. He records the blade when opening and closing.

AXIAL LOCK - Another kind of push-button knife. But the mechanism is rather unusual. Opening and closing a knife with a lock of this type occurs if you press the knife axis and slightly turn it with a thumb. It works such a mechanism due to the fact that there are special protrusions on the axis, which includes grooves on the blade and in the handle.

For this device, the presence of a movable brand on a knife blade is characterized. At the time of the opening, this whine carries out a grip with a removal located in the front of the handle, and blocks the blade. For reverse action, a shoe shift towards the island. Users of such a mechanism will need to learn some skill, but the blade opens very quickly, and the castle is considered strong enough. Such locks are found in the line of models of Kershaw knives.

RAM SAFE LOCK, BOLT LOCK (BIGEL CAMDES)

As an example of the RAM Safe Lock lock, you can pay attention to the Kold Steel Pocket Bushman knives. In the device of the castle you will see a combination of philand and simplicity. In the technological design of the knife, the rigle (rod) is used, with which the blade shank is fixed. Rigel moves along the course of the footage (parallel). With the opposite side of the blade side, the rigle is pressed with an elastic spiral spring. The opening of the knife is carried out if you pull for a treaty, that is, for the opening, and also for the closure of the knife is required both hands. But the castle is distinguished by practicality and durability.

BOLT LOCK - has a similar device. It is only distinguished by the fact that a whine is attached to the riglel, which is derived from the side of the handle. As for the principle of work, here you can conduct an analogy with pin locks.

Ratchets Lock (Gear Castle)

Ratchet Lock, or Cogwheel Lock is found in the designs of South African Oska, but most often they can be seen in the Spanish knives of Navaha, as well as in the modern version of Cold Steel Kudu. The rounded part of the shank has the form of a comb, the teeth of which have straight or slightly curved angles. Plate-cover is equipped with a slot on one of such teeth. With the plate, a knife is closing. When the knife opens, the plate is extended, and then all the gear teeth can pass through it. When you need to close the knife, the lock plate manually rises, for example, for the ring.

Balison

As such, the lock in this knife is not in principle. The technology of protection of the blade is based on the fact that the blade, being folded, is simply closed by handle, which consists of two half. Each of the half has the ability to turn 180 degrees. Opening both halves of handles in different directions, the blade is released. Some models can be equipped with a latch that fixes half of the handle.

Very common type of lock. It is often found in budgetary, tourist models. The flat spring holds the blade in its extreme position for a rounded shank. As such tight fixation does not guarantee such a lock, but also does not allow the blade to unexpectedly.

FRICTION FOLDER (friction fixation)

The simplest device used by the peasants in the Middle Ages. Japanese knives are also arranged. According to this principle, hazardous razors make. A friction force is used in the knife device, with which the blade is held in an open state, namely, the shank is running about the handle in the axis area. Opening a knife occurs with the lever. In the closed position, this lever protrudes a little from the handle. You should simply press the lever so that the blade is advanced, and then manually can be opened completely.

Finally

Choosing a knife, orient not only on the design of the knife, but also for metal, the quality of manufacture, the manufacturer. After all, it is often the most complex castle, but fulfilled ineptly, will give up the most simple castle made by the famous manufacturer's company that guarantees its quality and durability.

Folding knife - a great tool in a man's pocket and not only. It must be taken with him, going to the campaign or just in nature. With the help of the knife, you can not only cut the sausage or open beer, but also protect yourself from enemies. And more often the enemy does not turn out to be a man, but an animal, for example, a dog or even a fox. In this instruction, we will look at how to make a good simple folding knife with your own hands.

For the manufacture of a knife, the author used pretty a professional set of tools, he needed an electrolybiz and other tools. But it is not worth despair, if you have skilled hands, such a knife can easily be done with conventional manual instruments. The locking device of the knife is also performed simply, all parts are manufactured manually. So, proceed.

Materials and tools that used

List of materials:
- high carbon steel (which can be hardening);
- pins (steel or brass);
- material for lining (wood, plastic, and so on at will);
- epoxy adhesive;
- spring rod (for the manufacture of spring).

List of tools:
- ;
- drilling machine or drill;
- clamps;
- Bulgarian;
- vice;
- paper, pencil, scissors for the manufacture of template;
- sandpaper;
- oven, oil for quenching.

Knife manufacturing process:

Step one. Template
First of all, the author manufactures the template, including all internal details. For those who have already made a knife at least once, will not make a lot of work to make such a pattern. You need to think over the locking mechanism, it is done as a lever with a hook.

Step second. Cut the blank
All parts of the knife author carries out sheet steel. The fixing mechanism consists of two parts, one part holds the spring, and the second is a lever with a hook, which holds the blade.

For the manufacture of the handle, you will need to sharpen two identical parts. All items, including blade, the author cuts with a grinder. In hard-to-reach places where the grinder does not bring out, we make a lot of transverse propilov, and then we gradually cut them out.

For the manufacture of the blade, it will take steel with a high content of carbon, in America it is customary to use steel 1050, in Russia the most common brand of steel for the manufacture of knives can be considered steel 65x13. Good steel, which can be hardening, is widely used in the manufacture of tools. You can also use steel from the old cutting disk.

When cutting the blanks for the manufacture of the handle, collect them on the pins or just on the bolts. Now polish the contour product, in the end you will get two identical parts.

Step Three. Grinding
We proceed to a thinner processing of blanks, namely grinding. Here we will greatly help the ribbon grinding machine. We bring the items to the ideal, and at the end we can pass by a hand with a file where you could not get a machine to the machine.

Using a grinding machine, you also need to withdraw the scones on the blade. The author fastens the blade to the special adaptation and starts work. The main criterion here is the symmetry of the bevels.

At the end, the author handles the details manually using sandpaper. The next step is for us hardening, before that, do not forget to drill all the necessary holes in the blanks, as then it will be done problematic.

Step fourth. We descend the blade
To keep your knife for a long time sharpening, blade must be hardening. Since our blade has small sizes, it can be easily warm up to the desired temperature with the help of a burner, as the author did. Kalim metal as long as steel will no longer attract a magnet. If you approach more professionally to this case, then for each steel there is a clear heating temperature.

When you warm up steel, lower the workpiece into the oil. It is quite suitable for spent oil from the car, as well as vegetable. After cool the workpiece, go through the metal burner to burn the oil. Now the steel can be checked if it is not taken with a file, it means that the hardening has passed successfully.

The next step by hardening is the metal leave, otherwise the steel will be very fragile. Home oven is suitable for vacation. Place the blade in it and warm it for about an hour at a temperature of 200-250 degrees Celsius. Then give the oven to cool in the closed state with the knife inside. Vacation produced! Now the steel will spring, and the blade will not break at high load.

Pitch fifth. Go to the assembly of a knife
After quenching, polish the blade to the brilliance, since after heat treatment it will change color. Now the knife can be collected. Lubricate all the inner parts of the engine oil so that the knife is not rusted from the inside. Now we collect everything on the pins. Pads are glued using epoxy glue.

Hold the handle with a good few clamps and give the glue to dry completely. Epoxy will usually dry about a day.

When the glue is completely dry, we produce the final grinding. First, the product is processed on the grinding, and then manually using sandpaper. At the end, bring the handle to the perfect smoothness with the help of shallow sandwich.

The knife is a very useful tool, they can be protected, put out a stick, cut the sausage or use instead of a screwdriver if necessary. So that the knife is always with you, it should either have a protective case or should be folded. The second option is more convenient, as such a knife will be more compact, and you will not be able to lose the case. Folding knives are of a wide variety of designs, we consider the simplest one.
The author decided to make the handle of his knife solely from the tree. This material is available and easy to work with it. The author for the manufacture of the knife used only manual tools. The main emphasis in the article is made on the manufacture of the handle. You can find the blade either ready from an old knife, or you can pull it yourself, it is not difficult. So, proceed to the manufacture of a knife.

Materials and tools that used

List of materials:
- blank for blade;
- wooden trunk;
- steel rod (as an axis for blade);
- glue for wood;
- tape;
- oil for impregnation.

List of tools:
- Lobzik;
- wood-hacksaw;
- drill;
- marker;
- planer;
- sandpaper;
- Files;
- vice;
- Clamps.

Knife manufacturing process:

Step one. Cut the blank for the handle
For the manufacture of the handle will need a piece of the board. You can use various trees breed based on your preferences. But only remember that solid rocks will process more difficult. We will cut the board along two halves, we will eventually get two blanks. Here you will need to correctly take into account the thickness of the board.

We apply blade to the board and supply. Now we know what about length should be a handle so that the blade can go into it. Consider the location of the locking pin and so on.

Making all the necessary calculations, clamp the board in vice in a vertical position and proceed to cutting. The author first outlines the plus line with the help of a jigsaw, and then a hacksaw with a wide blade comes to the rescue. Slowly, slowly, cut the board into two halves.

Step second. We make and install the axis of blade
Blade is attached to the handle using one metal axis. We are looking for a stem suitable on the diameter and cut off the desired piece. In the blade drills a hole of this diameter so that the axis tightly went into the hole. Blade should not hang on the axis.

Step Three. We refine half the knob
After the board was cut into two parts, we had two halves. Each one of them needs to be pretty aligned and polished, since after cutting the parts will have a lot of irregularities. You can align them using a plane or by grinding, which is safer. At the end, polish the details of the sandpaper so that they become perfectly smooth.

Step fourth. Internal strut
Between two halves there is another detail of the tree, with the help of it we get the desired gap. Choose a gap in accordance with the thickness of the blade. The main idea is that the blade tightly went into the handle and did not fall out. There are no additional locks here. Also, this item will act as a stop for the blade. Wood for this part use dense, like oak, maple and so on.

Pitch fifth. Drill holes under the axis
Apply the blade to the workpiece and drill holes for the axis. It should be inserted into the detail tight. Try to collect all parts into a bunch and make sure that all the details are made true. The blade should not spontaneously fall out of the handle. If so, you need to reduce the gap between the halves of the handle.

Step six. Gluing
Epoxy glue is suitable for gluing, but the author decided to use adhesive for a tree, it is also enough here. We apply glue to the "strut" on both sides, and then we glue the sides on the sides. As for the axis, on which the blade holds, before assembling it is extremely desirable to apply epoxy glue, so it will securely stick to the handle. But be careful if the glue glues the blade, you can not open the knife after the manufacture.

Clear all this case with several clamps and give glue to completely dry. Epoxcine dries about a day, a glue for a tree is better to stay about as much time.

Step seventh. Final treatment
When the glue dries, remove the clamps. You need to cut off the protruding parts of the axis, to do this, use the metal hacksaw.
At the end, you will remain forming the desired profile of your handle. This can be done manually, as the sizes are small here. Relieve files and form a desirable profile. Then switched to sandpaper. At the end, we use the smallest sandpaper to bring the product to the ideal.

In the same step, the blade can be molded, a small sandpaper, moistened in water, is perfect for this.

Step eighth. Impregnation
The tree is very cunning material, it instantly changes in size, cracks, deformed if moisture falls on it. To avoid these unpleasant consequences, the tree needs to be protected. Here you will save flaxseed or any other, intended for wood processing. Do not use mineral oils, as they do not dry. Soaking the handle everywhere, both outside and from the inside. Let oil dry. Instead of oil, you can also easily use varnish.

That's all, the manufacture of the knife approached the end. As a result, we have a small comfortable pocket knife. Do not forget that the handle is made of wood, so the knife will not be able to end the high load on the blade. However, for most domestic work, its strength should be enough. On this, everyone, good luck and take care of yourself!

Dec 21, 2018 Gennady

This is an instruction on how to make a homemade folding knife with a lock button that blocks the knife in the open position.

The project took a lot of time and effort, but I am very pleased with how I made a folding knife with my own hands.

Step 1: Preface

Before you see the scheme and drawings, I have to tell you that it is a very difficult assembly, and I think that during the manufacture of a knife luck was on my side. Therefore, if you are a novice, I would recommend you to start with a simpler project, for example, collect a small, strong, ordinary knife. The project was much more complicated than I expected, and I had to deal with new problems all the time. But if you want to make the same knife - act! A wonderful feeling when something like that lies on your table, and you know what made this thing alone.

Step 2: Information

This is a brief overview of all information that belongs to the folding pocket knife.

• 8 cm long
• Thickness 1.3 mm
• Mirror polished
• Acute as a razor
• Engraved logo

• Length 10.5 cm
• 1.5 cm thick
• Made of stainless steel and black zebrano
• with buttons blocking system

Materials + Cost:

• the old saw was used for metal cutting - free
• stainless steel from the old washing machine - free
• Zebra Tree - free (I had a piece of this tree in my arms)
• other iron parts were found in the garden - free
• the project cost time, grinding disks and electricity

Step 3: Create a blade

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Note: Some of these photos are not from this knife, but the method of manufacturing the same.

To assemble the folding knife with their own hands at home you will need high-quality high carbon steel. Good for this, saws, or, for example, a disc from a circular saw. The best thing to find spring steel. You can check whether steel is high carbon, polishing it with a desktop grinding machine. If the sparks are long and narrow, then the steel is soft if the sparks are divided into several smaller sparks, then the steel is high carbon.

If you use (like me) some old drink, you need to "weaken" it. This means that the steel is too hard for processing, so you need to make it soft. The best and most convenient way is to just throw it into the fire and leave there overnight so that the steel begins, and then very slowly cooled. (It may be necessary to repeat the procedure several times).

Suppose you have good, high-quality and soft steel. Now you need to come up with the shape of your knife. For this project, I had to come up with a special form so that I could assemble the blocking mechanism. As you can see, I made several prototypes, which drew on the steel.

Drill a hole (if you can't do this, then the steel is still very hard and you need to soften it even more). Then use the angular grinding machine with the disk to cut the rough form. Align the workpiece with something like a desktop or ribbon grinder.

Now clean the steel and get rid of all traces that are present on it. You can again use a ribbon grinding machine or a grinding disk attached to a drill.

After cleaning, start the steel under the blade. I used a manual grinding machine.

I wanted to make "focus for the thumb", so I took the remaining steel and tried various form options on it. The one I liked the most, I cut out with a hacksaw and leveled in small files.

Here I stopped, because I did not want to polish the blade again, if I suddenly scratch it. After the handle was made, I thermally processed it using a propane burner so that it fastened to red and then harden her in oil. Then I polished it with emery paper of different graininess and finally polished on the grinding circle.

Step 4: Make a handle

In the same way, I cut out and polished stainless steel pieces for the handle. I drilled four holes, one for a bolt, second for the lock mechanism and two others for fastening wooden tabs.

Step 5: We continue with the handle

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In order for the lock to be more stable, I wanted in front of the handle steel parts. I made them the same as the blade and stainless things. I used a steel rod with a thickness of 0.5 cm. For a safety pin, you need to drill a hole in the rear, but not throughout, and so that the spring can stay there! The front also has a smaller hole outside and larger inside. This is done so that the safety pin does not fall.

To make a thread for a bolt, I drilled a hole with a diameter shown on the back side of the caliper (see photo). The bolt that I was needed, I could not find, so I made it myself on the lathe. Then I made a thread and cut out the recess in my head.

Step 6: Make a handle: safety pin

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This thing is the most accurate, the hardest and smallest in the assembly of a perico knife with their own hands.

Let me first tell you something: my initial idea was to make a simple friction folding knife, so I developed it and made a blade. But then, I started thinking about a knife and realized that I could have a blocking mechanism. A few minutes later I came up with this idea. I decided that this is a good option how to make a lock mechanism. Therefore, I made another design and one more blade and hoped for the best. Before that, I did not try to create anything like that, and I was very curious, whether my idea will work.

During the assembly, I found that everything will be not as simple as I expected, but there is nothing impossible. Using turning and drilling machines, metal files, emery and much more, I, about 3 hours, finished the pin.

Let me explain to you in what its essence: the front of the pin (the one that without a ring) serves as a block for the blade. The pin is sitting on the spring, so when you press it, the other it clicks on the spring, it drops and a more subtle part of the pin slides across the grooves of the blade. The ring on the other end serves as a block, so the pin does not fall out of the knife.

Despite the complexity of the manufacture of this product, I was forced to make two pins, because the first dangled a bit, and the blade hesitated.

In order for the pin to return and fixed the folding knife, it is necessary to insert a spring into the back. "I cut out the suitable sprout from the ballpoint handle.

Step 7: Make a handle: Align

As can be seen from the name, you need to perfectly align the handle using all the methods that you consider fit.

You also want to make struts. I made my stainless steel slicing. Next, I drilled two holes in the handle and in the strut, and then cut the rod, which was 2 millimeters longer, so that I could score it and make it flat.

Step 8: Make a handle: Wooden lining

As I mentioned earlier, I used a zebra tree. I do not recommend it for beginners, because it is very hard wood and it is difficult to work with it. (I know what I'm talking about. I had to redo the lining on another knife twice, because I didn't know how the wood behaves.) The most affordable and easy in the work of the tree I found is beech. He is solid, but it is easy to work with it.

First copy the sketch of your knife to a piece of wood. Then we roughly treat it with a rashpyl for giving shape and with a circular file to make a groove. Using different files and sandpaper, rounding the corners of the tree so that the pen is pleased to keep. Using pins, secure the lining and make sure everything looks smoothly and efficiently.

Step 9: Finish

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Finally, the product has become like a knife. The only thing that remains to do is to polish its sandpaper of different grain and polish on the grinding circle.

Stick wooden plates with epoxy and secure them with pins, but not through, but only to parts of stainless steel so that the knife can enter inside. Now cut the pins in the size of the lining and lay them under zero. For finishing, I used some kind of oil. You can use anything - oils, wax, paints, varnishes and so on.

As I wanted to somehow mark my knife, then using two batteries of nine volts and vinegar, I finished my logo on the blades. Pour a bit of vinegar into a small container and put a slight salt there - enough such concentration so that the salt is no longer dissolved. Now take a cotton wand and plunge it into the solution. Next, connect two batteries. Connect the positive wire with the blade, and the negative - with the tip of the stick, so that the blade concerns the cotton saturated with the solution. Prepare the blade by clearing it with alcohol or soap. Use nail polish to cover the area where you want to apply your logo. Scratch the desired image of the toothpick. Now you can start etching. (I recommend trying this process on a spare piece of metal, because for the first time you will not succeed to do the job well.)

Another useful thing is to make a hole from plastic two mugs and make holes in them. Place these mugs between the blade and the steel part of the handle, slightly smearing with WD-40, the knife will open and close much smaller.

The last thing you need to do is put on the blade. I used a wet grinding stone and a strip of leather. I compared the sharpness with my old razor and I must say that the sharpness is almost the same.

I spent about 40 hours on the project, but it was worth it. The best thing you can hear from other people is the question of where you bought this knife and are not going to do and sell knives.

Step 10:

For better wearing, I made homemade leather sheath. First, take foam and cut out inside the hole under the knife. Then take a piece of skin and soak it in warm water. Next, make a sandwich: Put the tree on the table, put the knife on it, on top of the plastic package (so that the knife is not wet), then the skin, foam with a hole, a foam cover and another piece of wood. Then heal the sandwich in the vice and let it dry overnight. Just sew the resulting skin fragment with another piece of leather, add a rivet and clamp for the belt.

Step 11: Photos

Here are some photos of the finished knife. I hope you enjoyed it, because it is a beautiful and complex project.

Making knife womb

Push-button broken knife, only at first glance is very difficult. But in fact, if you carefully figure it out in his device, and have home the necessary equipment and material, then make an independent knife-miscarriage, do not represent special problems. As the theater begins with hangers, and every product (regardless of its complexity) - begins with the drawing. Take a sheet of paper or cardboard and draw a knife on it. If your talent of the artist is still deeply buried, then just circle the knife contour from the finished product. Cut separately from the cardboard the shape of the blade of the future blank knife. Attach it with the pin to the sketch of your drawn knife and count down how its components will interact. Make all the necessary markup.

Take you plan to use and transfer sketch to it using the blade template. Now you can start processing the blade on the sandpaper. I would like to say that now for home use, you can buy any equipment. Starting from the emery machine and ending with a mini-lathe. If you don't have at least a sandpaper, then you should not begin to do, it's not too simple, a product, like a vykutny knife. However, the most overwhelmed, can use: manual drill, homemade sharpened on the motor from the fan, a file, a knife for metal and a set of supules. It is longer, but not worse. You can also use for blades, old kitchen knives.

After you have been processed on the sandpaper, giving it the necessary shape and sharpening, clamp in the vice and start its grinding. First we make black treatment with diamond nadfyl, then finishing processing is a small storage. Dispise the extra part of the steel strip from your blade and drill a central hole on the boring machine. Treat the blade ends on the sandpaper.

Now we will take care of the manufacture of a knife knob. Thin titanium is quite suitable. We cut off the electr the labzik for metal a rectangular strip of the required size. Since titanium viscous metal, lubricate the place where the oil is proper. There are two such rectangles. We make a preliminary marking on one of them, and clamp both pieces into clamps. We are again waiting for fascinating work on the emulsive machine. We proceed by the ends of the blanks of the knife knob of the knife with a file to make both halves full identity.We apply the blade on the workpiece of the handle and clamp the clamp. In the centerpoint of the blade, we drill both halves of the handle.

We drink from the steel strip another detail, called the spring. We process it and cut the necessary holes on it on it. Now applying the spring to the knife knob, drill holes. Do not forget to shoot chamfers from the outer part of the holes. Currente on the knob of the hole under the button and the retainer of the spring. Now drill their subtle drill. We process the supphyl to the necessary sizes. You can use bronze bushings for fastening overlays. We insert them into the side plates and rushing from the inside.

Now you can collect the entire design of the discharge. Cut from wire or nails pieces for stakes. Weight. Rivets are stepping with a file to obtain a homogeneous surface.

We drink a rectangular hole in the blades with a diamond supfil. Now with the help of a lathe make the axis. If you wish, you can do without a lathe, using files.

Customize the blade under the retainer, drinking rectangular grooves. We make a P-shaped retainer. We insert the lock in the knife handle knife. Now we need a flavor for the retainer. You can cut it out of steel tape. Secure the federal of the retainer using a bolk. Now pressing the lock, you will feel that the spring seeks to push it back. Pulling the spider blade can be used from the car starter. Grind the blade to the guma paste.

Next, make lining. What material to use for the knife handle linings we spoke in. Drink two rectangular strips of lining. Serve the grooves in them. Let's leave on the handle and give the form on the sandpaper. We finally process the file. We have all the details, you can proceed to assembling a discarded knife. We insert the blade, the axis, we bring the sputum spring, insert the button, connect the lining, screw them with the bolts. Vykidnaya knife is ready.

Of course, the above photos and my brief description is very not enough to perform the work on the manufacture of a discarded knife. So I bring a link video on YouTube, http://youtube.downloader.com.ru/kid2cf8amma. Where is very detailed and step by step, the master describes how it makes this vykutant knife. All photos are taken from this video. Consider this article just a familiarization.