The most effective scheme of warm floors. Screed on the "warm floor". Water warm floor (VTP). What room is suitable for mounting a warm floor

Warm water floor may be an additional heating source or play the role of the main heating system. The efficiency of the complex depends largely on competent design. An important role will play and the selected thermal water floor scheme - the method, step and "drawing" of laying pipes.

Before proceeding with the design of the heating circuit, it is necessary to study the general principles of installation of the system, select pipes and calculate the warm floor. All these moments are detailed in the article. In addition, we have prepared a detailed algorithm for the preparation of the scheme and led to practical advice on the organization of outdoor heating.

It has long been known and a warm floor of water type is rather popular. The narrow pipes conclude into a concrete tie to suitable flooring. On the system, a hot heat carrier is allowed, which heats the room. Of course, the system consists not only of pipes and screed, it includes many other important elements.

This type of heating gives better heating compared to traditional pipe systems. Heat comes from below and gradually moves up. As a result, the room is heated more evenly.

It is believed that with the help of such a system, it is possible to save about 25% of the cost of heating. This is due not only to the quality of the warm-up, but also with a relatively low heat carrier temperature, which should not be higher than 50 ° C.

Since the pipes are hidden, direct contact with heaters is excluded, i.e. The probability of burns is completely excluded. The interior from such a decision will only benefit, because there is no need to install radiators, lattices for them, etc.

On the warm floor, you can walk barefoot, some hostesses lay down on the surface of grated clothes, it dries very quickly.

However, it is worth noting that such a system has significant disadvantages. To begin with, this is quite difficult installation that needs to be performed very carefully. In addition, such an option is available not to all.

You can easily install water systems in almost any private buildings, but here for apartment buildings there are serious limitations.

The flooring systems of TP have certain advantages over a concrete option, however, they will have to spend a lot of funds and forces (+)

Here such systems can only be done on the first floor, and after agreeing with a number of organizations. Initially, the central heating systems were not calculated on such modifications, so it will be necessary to make sure that the alteration will not break the hydrostatic equilibrium of the system.

The solid weight of the screed and the danger of leakage should be taken into account. To identify the place of damage to the pipe hidden under the tie, it will not be easy, and it is almost impossible to quickly eliminate the breakdown in such a situation.

Therefore, in the apartments of high-rise buildings, the implementation of water warm floors on any mounting scheme is prohibition, it is recommended to give preference to electrical systems.

Water options are characterized by such high efficiency and cost-effectiveness only in rooms with good thermal insulation.

General principles of installation of water type systems

First you need to prepare a reason: to align it and clean from pollution. After that, lay the heat insulation layer, often use plates for this.

Such material comes in the form of plates that are not difficult to install. After that, thermal insulation material is littered with a waterproofing film.

Before starting the installation around the perimeter, there is a damper tape to compensate for the thermal expansion while the system is running. On large areas, it is installed not only along the walls, but also in the houses passing in the middle.

If the insulation and tape are laid correctly, then the film can be accurately fed to the edge of the heat-insulating material, it will fall smoothly with a small tension.

The damper tape installed around the perimeter of the room is necessary when applying a concrete screed for laying TP to compensate for the thermal expansion

On top of the film, it is necessary to put pipes for hot water, it is at this stage that the laying of a water warm floor should be implemented, it is chosen in advance. Pipes should be laid smoothly, trying to preserve an equal distance between them to achieve uniform heating of the floor.

Whatever the selected TP scheme, it is necessary to properly bend the pipe and gently decompose it on the markup grid so that the heating of the floor is uniform

Mixed communications are connected to, through which they connect to the heating system at home, to the boiler, etc. Pipes are poured with a concrete tie, after which it is necessary to wait for its complete drying. It remains to check the operation of the system and lay the floor covering.

Each pipe loop is connected to the collector. It is desirable that the individual areas of the system have approximately equal length and hydraulic resistance.

When installing systems of this type, it does not exist. A small error can cause a serious breakdown in the future.

Therefore, it makes sense to take into account a number of useful tips before starting installation work:

1. The former screed is better to completely dismantle, and waterproofing and insulation put on the maximum strong base, carefully aligned horizontally.
2. It is not necessary to think that under the screed of irregularities of the base will be invisible, all the drops of more than 10 mm must be carefully aligned.
3. If several separate system circuits are stacked in the same room, the space between them should be divided by a damper tape, not limited to it only by styling around the perimeter.
4. In small areas, foamophole is quite admissible as a heater.
5. Over the unheated basement or on the soil you need to make the most reliable insulation, for example, a layer of clay and polystyrene layer at least 50 mm thick.
6. Attaching pipes to the grid, you should not delay the screed too tight so as not to damage the pipe.
7. The diameter of the pipe for such a system can vary in the range of 16-20 mm, the material must be designed for pressure of at least 10 bar and heating to 95 degrees.
8. With a limited budget, it is not worth spending on pipes with options in the form of additional protection, although the reinforcement of polypropylene communications will not be superfluous.
9. To automate the system operation, you need to choose correctly and install a collector, adding it to the design of servo drives, pressure sensors, air vent and other useful devices.
10. The collector box is placed in a niche on the wall, it must rise above the floor level high enough so that it is possible to bend the pipes that are included in it.
11. All pipes should come out of the collector down, and never - up to ensure the correct operation of the device to drive the air.
12. It is not recommended to make a niche for a collector in the bearing walls, if there is no other option, it is better to simply install the cabinet on the wall, and not inside it.

For obvious reasons, fixes after the installation of such a system can be very difficult, so all operations should be performed very carefully. For example, each loop must consist of one solid pipe, no spikes and any other connections are unacceptable.

Project preparation and scheme

Design is the first step when creating warm floor systems. First you need to think about whether it will be the main heating or only auxiliary option.

After that, you need to take a sheet of paper and make a layout plan for stationary furniture in the room. For example, it does not make sense to warm the overlap under the integrated wardrobe or under the automatic washing machine.

Based on the "Snake" or "Spiral" scheme, you can develop options for different premises. For example, a dual snake is suitable for a long and narrow room (+)

It should be noted the position of each such object and specify the exact dimensions. After that, you can leave a specific layout scheme of pipes. Usually use only two main types of layouts. One of them is called a snake, and the second is a spiral or snail. The first option is easier to implement.

Pipes are laid from one edge of the room to another, and then tip back to the collector. But this method has a significant drawback. The coolant, moving along the pipe, will gradually give warm and cool. As a result, the long tube will be at the beginning much more hot than at the end.

In small areas, such a difference does not have a value, but in the spacious room, the floor in different parts will warm up unevenly. To avoid a similar problem, use a snail scheme. In this case, the pipe is performed first along the walls around the perimeter, moving towards the center of the room.

Here the pipe should form a neat loop. From the center, the gasket continues in the opposite direction parallel to the already laid tube. It turns out that the coolant that reached the center of the room, when returning along the reverse spiral, will absorb a portion of the thermal energy of the fresh heat carrier.

Choosing a mounting scheme for water warm floor in the apartment, you need to consider the size of the room. For example, in the corridor or bathroom you can do the snake, but on large areas you need to use spiral laying.

Another important point, which affects the quality of the warm-up - the length of each cutting pipe. It should be approximately the same to ensure the uniform entry of the coolant and high-quality heating of all sections of the floor.

The smaller the step between the loops of the system, the higher the flow of the pipe. This table will help calculate the length of the pipes for individual sites.

Sometimes a snake type scheme may be suitable for those rooms that are unevenly cooled. It is necessary to organize it in such a way that the start of the pipe where the hot heat carrier goes, was there in the same place where the coldest zone is located.

Combine different schemes also when passing such small rooms like a balcony, loggia, etc.

Start the preparation of the project scheme from the determination of heat loss. At this stage, it is necessary to think about the insulation of the room and undertake, if necessary, additional measures: to insulate the facade, repair the windows, put new doors, etc.

Based on the data obtained, determine how many pipes it will be necessary, with what step they need to be deposited and other system parameters.

After that, you can begin to form a scheme of laying pipes.

First of all, you need to select a suitable place for the collector. If it is supposed to heat only a separate small area of \u200b\u200bthe room (bathroom, storage room, corridor), it will not be difficult to cope with the plan.

But you should not think that if the area is small, then all the work can be performed "on the eyes." The exact parameters for the big house are not easy to determine, it is better to entrust the execution of all the calculations to an experienced specialist.

In addition, there are programs that help carry out calculations in automatic mode. If it is assumed to install a warm floor in a complex configuration room, it is better to ask for help from an engineer.

To perform the calculations required to design the system, the following parameters should be used:

• length, width and configuration of the room;
• type of heat insulation material used;
• material of walls and floors;
• selected material for floor covering;
• the diameter of the pipes by which the coolant will circulate;
• what material will be made of communications.

After processing the data, the length of the pipe required for each particular area, as well as the step that must be respected for each site will be obtained.

On large areas, it is not always possible to heat such rooms using only one long tube. Most likely, it will have to be divided into several segments for laying on different sections.

This is also due to such an important indicator as the hydrostatic resistance of the system. The larger the length of the pipe, the higher its resistance. The number of turns can also affect this indicator.

Typically, the calculations for the warm floor are performed separately for each room. It should be remembered that it is impossible to lay pipes close to the walls, you need to retreat about 10 cm.

The pipe is paved in a step, which varies within 10-30 cm. Normal is considered a step between the pipes of the pipe in the amount of 30 cm. When passing complex areas, on which heat loss above, the step is less than - 15 cm.

Start the laying of pipes follows from the outer wall, which is colder and needs additional heating. It is not always possible to perform installation in this case, in this case it is recommended to further insulate the pipe on the area from the entrance to the room to the cold section.

If the system calculations are made unprofessional, it may lead to serious problems that will be detected only during operation. This may be the usual uneven heating of the floor, when in some areas heating is stronger, and the so-called "thermal zebra".

In this case, cold and warm bands are formed on the floor, which makes the use of the system is extremely not comfortable.

It will be difficult to correct this provision, it will be necessary to virtually dismantle the entire system and perform installation re-in accordance with the correct calculations.

Less obvious problems arising from abroad in design, this is heat leakage and a decrease in the movement rate of the coolant. As a result, heating costs will increase, but the house will not be heated properly.

Read more about the execution of calculations is written in the articles:

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Detailed information on the installation of systems of this type is contained in the video material:

Water warm floor - the system is comfortable, but it is not necessary to call it easy to install. Proper design, accurate calculations, the choice of quality materials and elements will create a truly effective option of heating.

Tsugunov Anton Valerevich

Reading time: 5 minutes

Execution of a screed is one of the most important steps with a warm floor device with your own hands. This paper needs to be suitable with maximum responsibility, since not only the appearance of the future floor depends on its quality. Coupling for a warm floor performs several important functions:

• protects the heating system from mechanical damage, and in the case of electric heating floor, also from air;
• it serves as a floor radiator of an impressive area distributing heat from the heater over the entire floor surface and heating the entire space of the room;
• serves as a flat surface for the finish flooring.

The composition of the tie under the warm floor

An unambiguous opinion about what is best suited for the arrangement of a warm sex with their own hands does not exist. Recently, supporters appear, which are based on dry materials, allowing not to spend time to dry out the solution, as with a wet version. But the most common view continues to be a wet screed.

For warm floor, the following composition options will be suitable:

• Cement-sandy solution, mixed in a 3: 1 ratio. Suitable for both water and electric heating floors.
• A concrete solution containing fine-grained filler. An excellent option for a water heating system, which allows to avoid cracking of the surface.
• . In an independent embodiment, they are suitable for filling electrical heating elements, convenient when performing work with their own hands.
• Special mixtures intended for warm floors. They have a different composition, are presented in stores in a large assortment.
• Tile glue. Plays the role of a screed when using electrical heating elements.

Tip: To increase the strength of the floor covering when performing work, use the reinforcement grid. Increase the resistance of the compositions helps add different plasticizers and microfibers.

Thickness and horizontal screed

One of the most important parameters of the screed for warm floors causing the greatest number of questions when performing work with their own hands is it. It is presented to certain requirements:

1. The screed must have the same thickness over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Only under this condition is uniformized material warming and high-quality heat transfer. Therefore, it is unacceptable to begin work in the presence of irregularities and drops on the draft floor - in this case it is pre-aligned.
2. The coating should not be too thin, because in this case the heating will be uneven and only individual zones will be warm. The thin layer will not accumulate heat and will quickly cool. Too small thickness can lead to crack formation.
3. The layer can not be done too thick, otherwise it will hold the heat inside, without releasing it out.

Danger of cracks

When using a traditional wet type of screed, it is very important to prevent the occurrence of cracks. Their appearance can lead to many negative consequences:

• it will be impossible to the uniform warming of the room, which will negate the advantage of the modern heating system;
• the uneven warming of sections of the floor will lead to overheating of individual thermal elements and their subsequent failure;
• may suffer.

To prevent the occurrence of cracks in the manufacture of a screed, you need to:

• properly observe the proportions of the solution, as well as the drying mode;
• use to increase the elasticity of the composition;

• strengthen the design of the reinforcement or;
• install between the wall and the screed.

A damper can be used as a damper or low density foam. The main task is to compensate for the expansion and compression of the material as a result of temperature change.

Sequences layering layers

The screed for a warm floor does not poured on a naked overlap, the design is a multi-layer "pie", each of the layers of which performs its tasks. When applying a screed device, it is very important to observe the correct sequence of laying layers.

"Pie" for water floor

For water heated floor, the most common is the following styling option:

1. Layer. Waterproof film is needed not only so that the liquid solution is not leaked to neighbors below. Waterproofing prevents the penetration of moisture from the overlap side, and the heat of the heating system is not spent on drying.
2. Heat insulation. The main task of the heat insulating layer is the direction of the maximum amount of heat into the room and the creation of an obstacle to its distribution on the ceiling plates. The best effect is achieved when using two types of materials:

• Three centimeters thick, which does not allow concrete to pull heat;
• reflective heat-insulating coating guiding thermal stream up.

1. Reinforcing layer. For reinforcement, a special grid is usually used that enhances the screed. This layer is important to prevent the material cracking due to the deformation of the soft lower layers or thermal expansion.
2. Pipe system.
3. Screed. This layer is performed according to standard technology using.

Tip: So that the pipes do not float during the fill of the solution, they need to be consolidated on the insulation plates either on the reinforcing grid.

Features of layering layers for electric floor

The "cake" device when using cable heating and heating mats will be the same as during the water system. However, it must be remembered that the cable should not touch the thermal insulation, so it must be attached to the reinforcement grid suspended between lags. Film heating elements can be put on top of the screed or use the minimum layer of fill up to 2 centimeters.

Warm floors are considered in our understanding of a more modern heating system than radiator heating. However, this is not the case - they appeared much earlier. Stubborn historical facts suggest that the warm floors were successfully used during the times of ancient Rome, in Korea, and in Russia, too. True, only furnace heating was used, since the transportation systems of hydrocarbons in the pipes did not yet exist. In the modern world, the most economically successful countries are widely used by heating with warm floors, and this is done not only for considerations of obvious comfort, and the fact that such heating allows saving energy resources, the demand for which is growing every year is taken into account.

This type of heating is the cheapest pleasure. Accessories and work are very expensive. That is why any maternity owner may have the idea to make a water warm floor with their own hands. Why not? Especially since the experience of both successful and unsuccessful implementations is already enough to give specific recommendations. The goal of our article is to give specific advice to those owners who are going to make warm water floors, but at the same time they save their money and eventually got what they wanted - comfortable and economical heating.

Why is it a water warm floor?

Of course, it is easier to be implemented, they are easier to manage, but the cost of energy makes their own adjustments - in operation this type of heating is much more expensive than water warm floor. It will take place only 4-5 years and the warm water field will pay off with interest, but only with the condition that it will be made competently and correctly. It is about this that the authors of the article and want to say to our readers. Matching colorful catalogs with expensive equipment, and based only on the experience of people who were able to realize warm water floors in their home.

Most heating systems are currently used as a source of heat natural gas - and it is completely logical, since this type of fuel costs cheaper than others. And this trend will be maintained for several more decades at least. Therefore, warm floors are best realized precisely water, the coolant in which heats the combustion energy of natural gas. But for this you need to comply with a number of conditions.

Water warm floor

Warm water floor is a complex multicomponent system, each part of which performs its function. Consider its device in the following figure.

Typical design of "Cake" of warm water floor

This type of floor heating is called "wet" because the "wet" building processes are used in its arrangement, namely the fill of the cement-sand tie. There are still so-called dry warm floors, but they are mainly done. As part of this article, we will consider the "wet" warm water floors, as they are much better, at least their installation and more difficult.

Warm water floor is mounted on a stable and durable base, which can be a concrete slab or soil. On the base, vapor barrier from a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.1 mm is stacked. The next layer of "cake" is the insulation as it is best to use extruded, which has a very low thermal conductivity coefficient, high mechanical strength and reasonable value. A cement-sand screed is equipped over the insulation, in which the plasticizer is necessarily added - for the mobility of the mixture, ease of laying and reducing the water-cement ratio. The screed is preferably reinforced with a metal wire mesh with a cell pitch 50 * 50 mm or 100 * 100 mm. In the same place inside the screed tubes of a warm floor with circulating coolant circulating in them. The height of the tie over the pipes is recommended to do at least 3 cm, however, the practice suggests that it is better than 5 cm and the strength will be higher and the heat distribution on the floor will be more uniform.

In the place of the walls of the walls to the screed, as well as the damper tape, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the screed when it is heated. The finishing floor covering should be intended for working with warm floors. The best way out is ceramic or porcelain stoneware, but some other types of coating are laminate, carpet or also can be used with warm floors, but there should be a special icon in their marking.

Such coatings, however, require a clear observance of the heat regime, which is achieved by the use of automation - special mixing nodes.

Requirements for the premises, where heating with warm water floors will be implemented

The most intelligent stroke in construction is when the heated floor pipeline is laid at the layout stage. It is very successfully used in Germany, Sweden, Norway, Canada, and, and in other economically successful countries, where energy carriers are very expensive and therefore, it is precisely an outdoor heating that is 30-40% more economical radiator. It is quite possible in the finished room, but it must meet certain requirements. We list them.

The most proper pipeline of the warm floor is the one that is laid at the construction stage of the house

• Given the significant thickness of the warm water floor - from 8 to 20 cm, the height of the ceilings in the room should allow you to mount such a heating system. It is also necessary to take into account the magnitude of the doorways, which should be at least 210 cm.
• Floor base should be strong enough to withstand a heavy cement-sand tie.
• The base for the warm floor should be clean and smooth. The irregularities should not exceed 5 mm, since the differences strongly affect the current of the coolant in the pipes, they can lead to importing contours and an increase in hydraulic resistance.
• In the room where warm water floor is planned, all plaster works must be completed, windows are inserted.
• The heat loss in the premises should not be more than 100 W / m 2. If they are more, then it is worth thinking about insulation, and not to give the environment.

How to choose a good pipe for a warm floor

About the pipes of warm water floor is written in detail in on our portal. Obviously, for a warm floor, it is better to choose pipes from stitched polyethylene - pex or pert. Among Pex pipes should be preferred by PE-XA pipes, as they have a maximum stitching density - about 85% and therefore have the best "effect of memory", that is, the pipes after it stretching, always seek to return to their original position. This allows you to apply axial fittings with a supervision ring that can be meditated in building structures without fear. In addition, at the dawn of the pipe, it is possible to restore its shape to the heating problem of the construction hairdryer.

Pert pipes do not have the effect of memory, so only collet fittings are applied with them, which cannot be meditated. But if all the circuits of the warm floor are made by solid pieces of pipes, then all connections will only be on the collector and it is quite possible to use PERT pipes.

In addition, manufacturers produce composite pipe pipes, when a aluminum foil is placed between two layers of cross-linked polyethylene, which is a reliable oxygen barrier. But the heterogeneity of the material, the difference in the coefficients of the temperature expansion of aluminum and polyethylene can provoke the bundle of the pipe. Therefore, it is better to choose the PE-XA or PERT pipes with a polyvinylethylene barrier (EVOH), which significantly reduces the diffusion of oxygen into the coolant through the pipe wall. This barrier can be located in the outer layer of the pipe and inside, surrounded by layers from PE-XA or PERT. Of course, it is better that the pipe, in which the Evoh layer is located inside.

For heat-mall circuits there are three main pipe sizes: 16 * 2 mm, 17 * 2 mm and 20 * 2 mm. Most often use 16 * 2 and 20 * 2 mm. How to choose exactly the "right" pipe.

• First, the brand in this matter matters and it is necessary to pay attention to it. The most famous manufacturers: REHAU, TECE, KAN, UPONOR, VALTEC.
• Secondly, a lot can "tell" the labeling of pipes, it should be carefully studied and should not be ashamed to ask more questions to the seller-consultant.
• Thirdly, the qualification of the seller-consultant helps a lot when choosing a pipe. Do not forget to demand certificates of compliance, ask about the presence and prices of fittings, mixing nodes, collectors and other equipment. It is necessary to know about what bays sell the pipe, by how many meters so that later in the calculations it takes.
• And finally, if the PE-XA tube is selected, then you can spend a small test. To do this, a small segment of the pipe must be stirred, and then warm up this place with a construction hairdryer. High-quality PE-XA, and PE-XB pipes should also recover the original form. If this did not happen, so that it would be written in the label - it's just not a PEX pipe.

Warm Paul Design Principles

One of the most important stages in the arrangement of warm water floors is their competent calculation. Of course, it is best to entrust it to experts, but already enough experienced experience says that it can be done independently. On the Internet you can find a lot of free programs and online calculators. Most famous manufacturers provide their software for free.

water warm floor

To begin with, it is necessary to determine what temperature should be at the warm floor.

• In residential premises, where most of the time, people spend standing the floor temperature should be in the range from 21 to 27 ° C. This temperature is most comfortable for the legs.
• For work premises - offices, as well as residential rooms, the temperature should be maintained in the 29 ° C area.
• In the hallways, lobby and corridors, the optimal temperature is 30 ° C.
• For bathrooms and pools Temperature floor should be more - about 31-33 ° C.

Heating with warm water floors is low-temperature, therefore the coolant must be supplied at lower temperatures than in radiators. If water can be supplied in the radiators at a temperature of 80-90 ° C, then no more than 60 ° C in the warm floor. In the heat engineering there is such an important concept as fall of temperature in heating circuit . It is nothing but the difference in temperatures between the feed pipe and the reverse. In warm water floors systems, 55/45 ° C, 50/40 ° C, 45 ° C and 40/30 ° C are considered to be optimal modes.

Very important indicator is (loops) of warm water floor. Ideally, they must be all the same length, then problems with balancing will not arise, but in practice it is unlikely to succeed, so it is customary:

• For pipe with a diameter of 16 mm Maximum length 70-90 m.
• For pipe with a diameter of 17 mm - 90-100 m.
• For pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 120 m.

Moreover, it is advisable to navigate not to the upper border, but on the bottom. It is better to break the room for a larger number of loops than try to achieve circulation by a more powerful pump. Naturally, all hinges should be performed by pipes of one diameter.

Pitch layout (laying) Pipes of a warm floor - Another major indicator that is made from 100 mm, up to 600 mm, depending on the heat load on the warm floor, the appointment of the room, the length of the contour and other indicators. Step less than 100 mm Make Pex pipes is almost impossible, the probability is just to break the pipe. If the warm floor is equipped only for comfort or additional heating, then you can make a minimum step to make 150 mm. So, what is the layout step to apply?

• Indoors where there are external walls, in the outdoor heating make so-called regional zones where pipes are stacked with 100-150 mm increments. In this case, the number of rows of pipes in these zones should be 5-6.
• In the centers of premises, as well as in such where there are no external walls, the laying step is made by 200-300 mm.
• Bathrooms, baths, paths near the pools stacked with a pipe with a step of 150 mm across the area.

Methods of laying the circuits of a warm floor

The contours of water heat can fit differently. And in each way there are advantages and disadvantages. Consider them.

• Laying the tube of the warm floor "Snake" It is more simple in the installation, but its essential disadvantage is that on the floor will be at the beginning of the circuit and at the end a tangible temperature difference - up to 5-10 ° C. The coolant, passing from the feed collector to the inverse of the warm floor design, cools. Therefore, such a temperature gradient arises, well tangible legs. This method of laying is justified to apply in boundary zones, where the floor temperature must decline from the outer wall to the center of the room.

• Laying the pipe of the warm floor "snail" More complicated in the implementation, but with this method, the temperature of the entire floor will be approximately equal, since the feed and reverse is undergoing in each other, and the difference is leveled by a massive tie tie when performing the calculated installation requirements of the laying. In 90% of cases, this method is used.

• Combined Warm Paul Pipe Play Methods Also applied very often. For example, the boundary zones are laid by snake, and the main area of \u200b\u200bsnail. It can help correctly split the room on the contours to distribute with a minimum of remnants of the pipe bay and provide the desired mode.

In each of the ways can be applied variable laying step When in the edge zones it is 100-150 mm, and in the indoor of 200-300 mm. Then it is possible in one room to provide requirements for more intense heating of edge zones, without applying other methods of laying. Experienced installers most often do this.

Laying of the heating circuit "Snail" with a constant step (left) and with variable naked (right)

To calculate the contours, it is best to take advantage of a special and very easy-to-use software. For example, the famous Valtec manufacturer, which distributes its program for free. There are also simpler programs to calculate the layout of the contours that count the loop length, which is very convenient. For example, the program "Snail", which also extends free of charge. Those who are not very friendly with the computer can make the calculation of the contours on their own, taking advantage of millimeter paper on which on the scale to draw the plan of the room and already on this sheet a pencil "decompose" the contour and calculate their length.

When dividing premises on the contours of the warm floor, the following requirements should be followed:

• The contours should not move from the room to the room - all the premises should be adjusted separately. Exception can be bathrooms if they are located nearby. For example, a bathroom next to the toilet.
• One heating circuit should not heat the room with an area of \u200b\u200bmore than 40 m 2. If necessary, the room is divided into several contours. The maximum length of any side of the contour should not exceed 8 meters.
• On the perimeter of the room, between the premises, as well as between the individual circuits, a special damper tape should be laid, which, after filling, the screed will compensate for its thermal expansion.

Selection of the type of heaters for a warm floor and its thickness

The insulation for warm water is obligatory, because I would not want to spend my money on heating the Earth, the atmosphere or unnecessary building structures, but the floor is exactly the necessary, which should take the lion's share of heat from the heating circuit. For this, the insulation is used. What kind of types need to be applied? Among all their diversity, the authors of the article recommend that only two of them should be paid attention to.

• Extruded expanded polystyrene (EPPS). This material has low thermal conductivity, high mechanical strength. Epps is not afraid of moisture, it practically does not absorb it. Its price is quite accessible. This insulation is produced in the form of plates of standard sizes 500 * 1000 mm or 600 * 1250 mm and a thickness of 20, 30, 50. 80 or 100 mm. For good docking plates on side surfaces there are special grooves.

• Profile heat-insulating high-density polystyrene foam. There are special round or rectangular bolsters on their surfaces, between which it is very convenient to lay a pipe without additional fixation. The fastening step is usually 50 mm. It is very convenient when installing, but at the price they are much higher than plates from EPPS, especially in eminent brands. They are produced with a thickness of 1 to 3 cm and sizes 500 * 1000 mm or 60 * 1200 mm - it depends on the manufacturer.

Epps plates may have an additional foil layer having additional marking. Plate marking The case, of course, useful, but the presence of foil only increases the cost of the insulation, and there will be no sense from it for two reasons.

• Manufacturers declared reflectivity will not work in an opaque environment, which is a screed.
• Cement mortar is a strong alkaline environment that is perfectly "eating" insignificant (in several dozen micron) aluminum layer before its froze. It is necessary to realize that foil plates are a marketing stroke and no more.

The authors of the article recommend applying for insulation of plates from EPPS. Saving compared to profile mats will be obvious. There is enough difference in the cost and fasteners, and a lot of money will remain. Recall the folk wisdom that saved money is akin to earned.

What thickness should the insulation in the construction of a warm water floor cake? There are special and complex calculations, but you can do without them. If you learn a few simple rules.

• If the warm floors will be made on the ground, then the thickness of the insulation must be at least 100 mm. It is best to make two layers of 50 mm and put them in mutually perpendicular directions.
• If the warm floors are planned indoors above the ground floor, then the thickness of the insulation is at least 50 mm.
• If the warm floors are planned over the rooms heated below, then the thickness of the insulation is at least 30 mm.

Additionally, it is necessary to foresee the fastening of EPPS plates to the material of the base, since when pouring the screed, they will strive to emerge. For this purpose, the plate dowels are ideal. They need to fix all the plates in the fields of joints and in the center.

For fastening the pipe to EPPS, special harpoon brackets are used, which reliably fix the pipe. They are fastened with an interval of 30-50 cm, and in places turning the pipe from PEX, the step must be 10 cm. Usually it is calculated that 500 pieces of harpoon-bracket are required on the bay of 200 meters. When purchasing them, it is not necessary to chase over the brand, as it will cost several times more expensive. There are very high-quality and inexpensive brackets of Russian manufacturers.

Choice of the collector-mixing node of the warm floor

The water floor collector is the most important element that receives the coolant from the highway, distributes it in contours, adjusts the flow and temperature, balances the loops of the contours, contributes to the air removal. Without it, no warm water floor will cost.

Collector's choice, and if you spend a more correct - the collector-mixing node better to trust the specialists who will select the necessary components. In principle, it can be collected independently, but this is the topic of a separate article. Just listed which elements should be in order not to be mistaken in the choice.

• First, it is directly the collectors themselves that can be equipped with various reinforcement. They must be equipped with tuning (balancing) valves with flow meters or without them, which are placed on the feed collector, and there may be thermostatic valves on the opposite or simply overlapping valves.

• Secondly, any collector to remove air from the system should be equipped with an automatic air vent.
• Thirdly, and on the feeder, and on the reverse collector should be drainage cranes for draining the coolant from the collector and air removal when the system is filling.
• In the fourth, for connecting the pipe to the collector, fittings should be used, which are selected individually in each case.

• Fifth, for fastening collectors and providing the desired center distance, special brackets are applied.

• Sixth, if a separate riser for warm floors is not equipped in the boiler room, then a mixing unit must be answered for the preparation of the coolant, including a pump, a thermostatic valve, bypass. The design of this node has many implementations, so this issue will be reviewed in a separate article.

• And finally, the entire collector-mixing unit should be located in the collector cabinet, which is installed or in a niche, or open.

The collector-mixing knot is placed in such a place so that all the lengths of the highways from it, to the hinges of the warm floor, were approximately equal and the main pipes were in close proximity. The collector wardrobe is often hiding in a niche, then it can be placed not only in cabinets and boiler rooms, but in dressing rooms, corridors, and even living rooms.

Video: What calculations are needed in front of a warm floor device

Installation of water warm floor with his own hands

After calculations and purchases of all necessary components, it is possible to gradually implement a warm water floor. Initially, it is necessary to outline the places where collective cabinets will be placed, crushed, if necessary, a niche is also made through building structures. All rolling and drilling work must be completed before the next step.

Installation of insulation

Before this stage, it is necessary to prepare the premises for this - to endure all unnecessary, remove the entire construction trash, replace and spend the floors. The room must be absolutely clean. When mounting the plates, it is necessary to be in shoes with a flat sole, as heels can damage the surface. We list the sequence of actions when installing the insulation.

• First of all, the clean floor level is littered on the walls using laser or water. All irregularities are measured using a long rule and level.
• If irregularities exceed 10 mm, they can be completely aligned with pure and dry sand, which should be dissolved later.

• If the warm floor is made on the ground or above the ground floor, the waterproofing film is spread with the adhesive adjacent strips of at least 10 cm and coming to the wall. The joints of the joints are glued with scotch. A polyethylene film of 150-200 microns is quite suitable as waterproofing.
• Starting from the far corner of the room, the process of laying plates of EPPS begins. They fit close to the walls of a marked surface up.
• The plates of EPPS must fit tightly with each other with the grooves that are available on their side surfaces. When laying each plate, it should be tight to the base and be in the horizontal plane, which is checked by the construction level. If necessary, under the stove sweeps sand.

• If obstacles are obstacles in the form of protrusions, columns and other elements, then after preliminary markup, the stove is cut by a construction knife along a metal line. At the same time, the EPPS must be put on some non-solid foundation so that the knife does not fill, for example, a piece of plywood or OSP.
• When laying the next row, it should be borne in mind that the stakes of the plates should not coincide, but to go aims, like brickwork. In order, if the Epps remained from the last latter, a part of at least 1/3 of its length remained, then the installation of the next row should be started with it.
• If laying of the second EPPS layer is planned, it should be carried out in a mutually perpendicular direction with the first layer.
• After laying thermal insulation, it follows using a perforator with a long brown and a hammer to fasten the plate dowels on each junction - on each joint and in the center of each EPPS stove. The joints between EPPS are stuck with a building tape.

• If, after mounting the insulation, cavities or slit remained, then they can be scored by the trimming of Epps and blend the mounting foam, but you can do it later, after installing pipes.

After that, it can be said that the insulation installation measures are completed. Although EPPS plates are sufficiently density to withstand the weight of an adult, it is still necessary to observe precautions when moving. It is best to use wide boards or pieces of plywood or OSP.

Installation of warm water floors

It has come the most responsible and difficult moment - installation of pipes of a warm floor. At this stage, it is necessary to be particularly attentive and neat and here without an assistant can not do. It is also desirable to have a special device for unwinding the pipe, since it is strictly forbidden from the bay pipe with rings, since it will be very strong voltages, which will complicate or make it impossible. The main rule - the bay must be twist, rather than removing the pipe from the stationary bay. In principle, this can be done manually, but it is much easier to the device.

If there is a markup on the upper side of the plates, it is simply wonderful, then laying pipes will be very simplified. And if not, it is not necessary to "be conducted" to purchase a foil thin insulation made of foamed polyethylene with applied markup. There will be no sense from him. You can apply markup on your own. To do this, marker on the upper side of the plates are made marks at the distance of the required step of the contour, and then the paint thread is fighting the lines - you can make markup in a short time. After that, you can read the tracks of the circuits of a warm floor.

heavy-floor screed

The collector cabinet is attached in the intended place and the collector is mounted in it, while without a pumping mixing group, it will be needed later. When entering the collector, when leaving it, as well as at the entrance to, each pipe must be protected by a special corrugation. However, the corrugation from eminent producers is a breathtaking money, so it is quite acceptable to replace it with the thermal insulation of the corresponding diameter. Also, the pipes should be protected when transitions from the room in the room and from the contour to the contour.

The installation of a warm floor pipe should be started from the zones that are most remote from collectors, and thermal insulation from foamed polyethylene must be dressed on all transit pipes, which will ensure maximum energy preservation to the destination point, and does not "confuse" heat along the road. Further, the pipe "emerges" from the plates of Epps, already "naked" bypasses all its warming circuit and "overtures" back and already in the heat insulation follows to the collector. The transit pipes themselves are placed inside the plates of EPPS, for this, the passages of the passage are preliminarily cut into them.

If the thermal insulation consists of two layers of EPPS plates, the first layer is first fit, then all communications are laid, including the transit pipes of the warm floor, and then the second layer is adjusted and trimmed on the spot.

In addition, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe location of the warm floor, pipes can go to radiators, as well as highways of hot and cold water supply. If there are several pipes, they can be fixed in a beam or plate dowels or a perforated metal strip and dowels. In any case, they should not be behind the top surface of the EPPS plates so that from above can be unhindered to lay the circuit of the warm floor. All cavities are placed by the mounting foam, which, after frozen, is cut off flush from the surface of the insulation plates.

On the perimeter of the room where the warm floors will be, a damper tape is pasted on the walls, which is designed to compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed. The tape is like a glue layer, and without it. When purchasing it, it is not necessary to chase the brand and overpay several times more. Now there is a decent damnation tape of Russian production in all senses. If there are no tapes at all, then this is also not a trouble - it can replace the foam of 1 or 2 cm thick, glued to the wall on liquid nails or the mounting foam.

The damper tape should also be installed between the rooms and different contours. For this, a special tape with T-shaped profile is produced. And in this case, it can replace a thin foam glued with mounting foam or glue.

Installation of pipes is made as follows:

• With the bay, 10-15 m tubes are wrapped off, the thermal insulation and the corresponding fitting for connecting to the collector are dressed.
• The pipe is connected to the appropriate collector output.
• According to the previously marked tracks, the pipe is stacked and harpong-brackets is attached in direct areas after 30-40 cm, and on the turns after 10-15 cm. The pipe should be bending carefully, without chances.

• When laying, do not try to attach the pipe at once, and it should first decompose on approximately 5-10 m highways, and then fix brackets. The pipe should lie on the insulation without tension, there should be no effort that tries to pull out the EPPS braces.
• If the bracket for some reason flew out of its place, then it is mounted in the other, at a distance of at least 5 cm.
• After bypassing the entire circuit of the warm floor, the reverse tube returns to its feed and with it next to the collector. If necessary, heat insulation is put on it.
• By arrival to the collector, the pipe connects to it corresponding to the fitting.

• Near the corresponding loop of the warm floor on the wall, as well as also on paper, the length of the contour is necessarily recorded. This data is necessary for further balancing.

Similarly, all contours are laid. At first it will be difficult, but then, after one laid "snail" everything will be clear and work will go without problems. When moving on already padded circuits, it is necessary to bed under your feet or knees of boards, faeer or osp.

Walking in shoes on pipes is not recommended. It is better to organize such "paths"

Video: Laying of a warm floor pipe

Installation of reinforcing grid

Disputes about the feasibility of the reinforcing grid are constantly. Someone says she needs, others claim the opposite. There are a lot of examples of a successful embodiment of a warm floor without reinforcing grid and, at the same time, there are examples of the unsuccessful sale of a warm floor with reinforcement. The authors of the article claim - reinforcement will never be superfluous, but only correctly performed.

The Internet is replete with examples when a metal mesh is placed on the insulation and fixes, and then a warm floor pipe is fastened to it with the help of plastic screys. It seems that it is convenient, but this is not reinforcing, but simply putting an absolutely useless mesh under the screed, to which money was spent. Reinforcement is when the grid is inside the screed, and not under it. That is why the authors recommend putting the grid on top of the pipe.

For reinforcing screed, a metal mesh made of wire with a diameter of 3 mm cell size 100 * 100 mm is quite enough. The grids from the reinforcement are not recommended due to the fact that the reinforcement has a corrugated surface and when installing can damage the smooth surface of the pipe. Yes, and it is not worth spending extra money on excessive strength of the screed, because it is assumed that the warm floor is mounted on a sufficiently strong base. The grid is stacked with an overlap per cell and binds to either knitting wire or plastic clamps. The sharp protruding ends must be bought off so that they do not damage the pipe. Additionally, the grid is attached to the pipe in several places by plastic clamps.

Instead of a metal mesh, plastic can be used, which will perfectly rein the screed and save it from cracking. Stop the plastic mesh is more convenient, as it goes in rolls. The use of a plastic mesh practically eliminates pipe damage, and its cost is significantly lower.

After laying the grid, the question arises again about the protection of the pipes, because, moving into the shoes on a metal grid, you can easily damage it, and the pipe is therefore recommended again to move only on boards, plywood or OSP. But there is still a very competent solution that will avoid damage to the pipes when pouring the screed.

The cement mortar is prepared - the same as it will be when laying a screed (1 part of the cement M400 and 3 parts of sand) and in the laying process, "blooms" are made from the solution that are slightly performed for the surface of the grid - 2 cm is sufficient. These "flames" are made with such frequency (30-50 cm), which will allow in the future to put on them boards or phanels and completely safely move. Another plus of this approach is fixing the grid, because when walking it, it seeks to bend, and this can damage the welds.

"Lyapki" from the solution will fix the grid and will help to safely move

Filling out contours. Hydraulic tests

This operation must be carried out even before filling the screed, as it is easier to fix it with a hidden malfunction immediately than after the floors are flooded. To do this, the hose is connected to the drain nozzle on the collector and is displayed in the sewer, as there will be a lot of water through the contours of heating. It is best if the hose is transparent - it will be easy to track the output of air bubbles.

To the input of the feed collector, which must be equipped with a shut-off ball valve, plug water through the hose or pipe. If the quality of tap water is low, then it is worth filling the system through a mechanical filter. To any other output associated with the circuits of the warm floor, the crimping pump is connected. It can be a free output manifold output, the output of the returns from the collector and other places - it all depends on the specific implementation of the collector node. In the end, the tee can be screwed into the ball cut-on faucet, and the system is filling through it, and crimping. After testing, the tee can be removed and connect the collector to the feeding line.

The system filling is made as follows:

• The collector overlaps all the contours of the warm floor, except one. Automatic air vents should be open.
• Water is supplied and its purity and air output is controlled along the plum hose. On the inner surface of the pipes during production, the production lubricant and chips can remain, which must be washed with flowing water.
• After all the air came out, and the water flows absolutely clean, the drain crane overlaps, and then the washed and filled circuit overlaps.
• All these operations are done with all contours.
• After washing, removal of air and filling out all contours, the water supply faucet overlaps.

If leaks are found at the filling stage, they are eliminated immediately after pressure reset. As a result, it should be filled with a clean heat carrier and a monitoring system of warm water floors.

To test the system, a special tool will be required - a crimping pump that can be rented or invited an experienced master who has such a device. We describe the sequence of actions during crimping.

• Fully open all the contours of the warm floor connected to the collector.
• Clean water is poured into the capacitance of therapy pump, the pump feed faucet opens.
• The pump hits the pressure in the system two times more than the working - 6 atmospheres, it is controlled by the pump pressure gauge and on the collector (if there is a pressure gauge).
• After lifting the pressure, a visual inspection of all pipes and connections, which, in principle, should be only on the collector. The pressure gauge pressure is also controlled.
• After 30 minutes, the pressure again raise up to 6 bar and again inspect all the pipes and connections. Then after 30 minutes these actions repeat. If leaks are detected, they are immediately eliminated after pressure reset.
• If the leaks are not detected, the pressure again raise up to 6 bar and leave the system for a day.
• If, after a day, the pressure in the system fell no more than 1.5 bar and no leakage was detected, then the heat-mall system can be considered properly mounted and hermetic.

When lifting pressure in the system, the pipe in all the laws of physics will try to straighten up, so "shooting" of some brackets is possible in those places where "familized" with them. Therefore, "leaps" from the solution will help to keep the pipe in place. In the future, when the screed is filled, the pipe will be securely fixed, but when pressure tests, poorly fixed pipe can be given unpleasant surprises.

Video: Filling system with heat carrier

Video: Covering system of warm floors

Installation of Mayakov

The fill of the tie of the warm floor should be carried out on pipes under operating pressure. Considering that in most closed heating systems, the working pressure must be in the range of 1-3 bar, you can take the average value and leave pressure 2 bar in contours.

As a lighthouses, it is best to use the guide plasterboard profiles of Mon 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27. They have sufficient stiffness and a smooth upper surface, which is very useful when moving the screed.

Lighthouses must be installed at the level of pure floor minus the thickness of the finish flooring. To secure them very often use simply mortar pillows, for which the guide profile is placed, and then it is removed by level. But this approach has a disadvantage in the fact that if the lighthouse rose below the required level, it is necessary to get it, put fresh solution and exhibit.

It is best if the lighthouses from the guide profile will be under it to have a tough support and can serve as a dowel for concrete and the screw of the corresponding length. It is preferable to use special screws along concrete - braided, which do not require the installation of a dowel, and, it means, the drilling diameter will be less. If a dowel is required to drill a hole with a diameter of 10-12 mm, then 6 mm is sufficient for heat. The top surface of the screws screw should be at the level of the surface of the future screed.

Screws on concrete - braided

Lighthouses should be located at a distance of no more than 30 cm from the walls. There should be no long distance between the beacons, since the solution suggests to settle and the pit may form on the ready-made screed. Optimally 1.5 m, then a construction rule of 2 m is used to align the screed. When installing beacons, the following is made:

• From the walls located on the left and right of the entrance, two lines are watched at a distance of 30 cm - it will be the position of extreme lighthouses.
• The distance between these two lines is divided into equal parts so that it does not exceed 150 cm. It is desirable that one of the bands occur directly to the entrance to the room. If necessary, the band, which comes to the input may be smaller.
• On the floor, the lines of the position of future lighthouses are stuck. They make the location of napillates with a step of 40-50cm.
• The perforator with the corresponding heating of the brown is drilled by the holes to the specified depth.

To exhibit copper caps in the same plane, it is best to use the laser level. If there is no herself in the arsenal of his home master, it does not matter, now this very useful tool can be rented, especially since it will be required for only one day.

Laser level - an indispensable assistant when marking and installing beacons

On the wall made a marker of lighthouses. To do this, the thickness of the finishing flooring is taken from the thickness of the finishing floor surface pre-battered on the wall. The laser level is set at this mark, and then screwing or unscrewing brazen, their caps are set at one level. If you enjoy with this operation a regular construction level, it will take much more time, and the error will be higher.

Further, the guide profiles are stacked on the caps of the copiers, the construction level is checked correctly. To secure beacons, a cement solution is used in its places as the same formulation as for a floor screed (1 part of cement + 3 parts of sand).

Lighthouses are removed from copper caps, and then slides are made from the cooked solution slightly higher than the height of the screed. It is enough to do them after 1 meter, as the beacon and it will already be securely fastened on the hats. Further, the profile is stacked and pressed into the solution, and its excess is immediately removed by the spatula. Finally, the level of installation of all beacons is checked.

At the same time, you can check the correctness of the installation of all damping tapes, separating the premises and contours and, if necessary, strengthen them with a solution.

water warm floor

Video: Installation of beacons for a heap screed

Warm Filling

Increased requirements are imposed on the tie of warm water floors, because in addition to the mechanical loads that portened by it, it also experiences temperature deformations. And usually the cement-sandy solution does not go here, the concrete mix must be modified by plasticizer and fiber.

The plasticizer is designed to reduce the water-cement ratio, increasing the mobility of the mixture and increase its strength when drying. Mobility When laying a heating floor screed is extremely important, as the solution should be tightly "clay" pipes and easy to release air bubbles outward. Without the use of plasticizer, the only way to increase the mobility of the mixture is to add water to it. But then only part of the water will enter the reaction with the cement, and the rest will evaporate for a long time, which will increase the time of setting and pouring and reduce the strength of the screed. The water-cement attitude should be exactly the way that will allow the screed to grab. Usually, 1 kg of cement requires 0.45-0.55 kg of water.

The plasticizer is produced in liquid and dry. It is necessary to apply it exactly as the manufacturer recommends, and nothing else. All sorts of "substitutes" in the form of liquid soap, washing powder, PVA glue is not allowed.

Fiber is designed for dispersed reinforcement of a concrete mix, which makes it possible to significantly reduce or virtually eliminate the formation of cracks, increase the strength and resistance of abrasion, increase the strength to bending and compression. This is achieved by the fact that the microfiber fibers are distributed and fasten the screed throughout the volume of the concrete mix.

Fiber is metallic, polypropylene and basalt. Polypropylene or basalt fiber is recommended for tie. It is added according to the manufacturer's recommendations, but it is recommended to use at least 500 grams of polypropylene fibra by 1 m 3 of the finished solution. To get a mixture with the best properties, add 800 or more grams per 1 m 3.

You can find ready-made mixtures for pouring the tie of the warm floor from well-known and not very manufacturers. The composition of these mixtures already includes a plasticizer, fiber, and other components. With undoubted convenience of their use and high quality, the cost of the finished screed will be significantly higher than the solution cooked independently.

Before the fill of the screed, it is necessary to remove all the extra items from the floor, if necessary, the surface is needed. It is also necessary to prepare the entire tool and dishes to knead and transport the solution. All the work on the pouring of the tie of the warm floor in the room should be made at a time, so it is desirable to have two assistants: one is preparing a solution, the second is wearing, and the chief executor lays and smash the screed. All windows must be closed in the room, the screed must be limited to the effects of drafts and direct sunlight.

An independent preparation of a heap screed solution should only be carried out by a mechanized manner - the quality of the solution must be high. A concrete mixer or construction mixer can be used as auxiliary mechanisms. No shocks on a drill or puncher here are suitable here, no matter how many "truthful" sources say.

The basis of the solution is the portland cement of the brand not lower than the M400, which should be dry and with storage time not more than 6 months after the release date. Sand should also be dry, washed and sifted. River sand will not fit - it is too correct. For a screed, the ratio of cement to the sand should be 1: 3 by weight, but in practice few people weighed sand and cement, and the universal measurement method is taken - bucket. Considering that the density of the construction sand is in the range of 1.3-1.8 t / m 3, and cement during transportation of 1.5-1.6 t / m 3, then you can not be afraid to measure cement and sand buckets, since quality The mixture will be quite valid.

Water in the composition of the solution should be about a third of the mass of cement, that is, an approximately 15 liters of water is needed on 1 bag of 50 kg of cement. However, the use of a plasticizer reduces the water-cement ratio, so when preparing a solution with water, you need to be very careful - it is better to not be discolored and then adding than to pour.

The technology of preparing a solution with a mixer and concrete mixer is slightly different. The mixer must be stirred on the low turns of dry cement, sand and flocculation polypropylene or basalt fiber and then gradually add water with a plasticizer dissolved in it. In the concrete mixtures of the gravitational type, which the absolute majority, stir dry cement and sand is difficult (dry cement is sticking to wet blades and drum), so it is first pouring a part of the water with a plasticizer, and then the cement is added first, then the sand, then also portion of cement And the remaining water. Fiber is added gradually. One piece along with water, the other with sand. At the same time, Fiber can not be thrown into the drum of concrete mixer lump, and it is necessary to divide on the portion and flush before the bookmark.

The cooking time in the concrete mixer is usually 3-4 minutes, and a mixer is a little more - 5-7 minutes. The readiness of the solution is determined by homogeneous color and consistency. If you take a lump of a solution in hand and squeeze, the water should not be released from it, but at the same time the solution should be plastic. If you put a solution with a slide on the floor, then it should not be very spread, but only a little to settle under its own weight. If there is no cuts in it, they should not be broken, but should keep shape.

Laying the screed begins with distant corners of the room and is conducted by the lighthouses. Only after the completion of one band, the next one is put up and the next one, the process will end with the entrance to the room. In the level of alignment, do not try to perfectly align the surface of the screed on the lighthouses. The main thing is that there are no failures in the screed, and small influx and traces from the rule are easily corrected later.

After 1-2 days (it all depends on external conditions), when the screed can already go, it is necessary to shine its surface. Initially, a damping tape protruding from the screed is removed and the construction rule is removed, and then the construction rule is taken and the sharp end is pressed against the beacon plane. In the direction from ourselves, short, but energetic movements are cleaned until lighthouses are completely broken. Then the trash is cleaned, the screed is moistened from the sprayer and is covered with a polyethylene film.

The next day, the beacons can be carefully removed, it is possible to unscrewed, and the formated grooves are wiping with a solution or tiled glue. The screed is moisturized and covered, it is recommended to do daily for the first 10 days after the fill.

Balancing of heavy floor contours. Commissioning

After full ripening of the screed, and this is at least 28 days, you can start balancing the circuits of a warm floor. And in this process, flowmeters on the collector will help. That is why it is necessary to acquire a collector with balancing valves and flow meters.

The fact is that the loops of the warm floor have a different length, respectively, they have a different hydraulic resistance. Obviously, the "lion's share" of the coolant will always go along the path of the least resistance - that is, along the shortest contour, and the other will get much less. At the same time, in the longest circuit, the circulation will be so sluggish that there is no speech about any heat unit. In a competently composed project of warm floors, consumption is always indicated in each circuit and the position of adjusting valves, but if the warm floor is made on their own, then a simplified, but active technique is suitable.

• If the pumping node is not yet connected, then it is installed. A warm floor collector is connected to the feed and return highway.
• Full all the contours of the warm floor are opened, the balls of feed and returns are open at the input. Automatic air vent valves must be open.
• Included circulating. The maximum temperature is put on the head of the mixing unit, but the boiler does not turn on, the coolant should circulate room temperature.
• Pressure in the entire heating system is communicated to the working (1-3 bar).
• All the contours of the warm floor are closed, except for the longest. The position of the flow meter on this circuit is noted and recorded.
• Fully opens the second in length of the contour. If the flow in it is greater, the balancing valve is spinning until the consumption is lined with the longest.

• Further, all the contours are sequentially open in the order of their length, the balance of the valve is adjusted.
• As a result, consumption in all circuits should be the same. If this is not the case, you can correct the adjustment on the contours, not the touch of the longest loop.

All of the above operations are completed correctly and flow meters show that circulation in contours occurs, it is possible to begin testing a warm floor with a heated coolant. It is necessary to start at low temperatures - from 25 ° C, and then every day gradually increase the temperature by 5 ° C, until the coolant is supplied to the contours with its operating temperature. What a sequence of actions at this stage.

• A temperature of 25 ° C is displayed on the thermostatic adjusting valve of the mixing unit, the circulation pump is turned on at the first speed and in this mode they give the system of day. This monitors and corrected circulation of flow meters.
• After a day, the temperature rises to 30 ° C, and the system of warm floors is left for a day. Controlling flow and flow rate and returns.
• On the next day, the temperature rises another 5 ° C, to 35 ° C. It is already much closer to the operating mode of the warm floor, so it is already worth adjusting the temperature difference between the feed and reverse collectors. If it is in the range of 5-10 ° C, then this is normal, and if more, then you should increase the speed of the circulation pump for one level.
• The maximum temperature to which the temperature can be lifted in the feed floor collector is 50 ° C, but it is better not to do it, but to check on operating modes - 45 ° C or 40 ° C. Similarly, the temperature difference is checked for feeding and reverse. The pump should work at the lowest possible speed so that the temperature difference is up to 10 ° C.

The correct adjustment of the heated floor is impossible to evaluate immediately, since such a heating system is very inertial. Must go through a few hours to feel the change in temperature mode. Therefore, everyone who has made independently a warm floor should be armed with patience and gradually bring the system to such a mode that would provide the desired floor temperature taking into account the coating. To do this, you will need to "play" with the settings of balancing valves, the thermal heads (if they are equipped with a collector) and the speed of the circulation pump. The main thing is that the water warm floor system made by its own hands works.

Find out how, having studied the instructions with the photo, in a special article on our portal.

Conclusion

Stubborn statistics suggests that the system of warm water floors beyond obvious comfort gives more substantial energy savings. The same statistics suggests that the number of successful independent realizations of such heating is growing every year. All technologies are already worked out, the market is flooded by any components, for every taste, color and wallet. The necessary information is always in open sources, specialists can always ask the Council. The team of authors hopes that this article dispelled the original fear and made it possible to understand the readers that it is possible to make a water warm floor with their own hands possible.

Video: How to calculate and make a water warm floor with your own hands

In essence, the hydraulic floor is pipe systemThrough which the liquid circulates a certain temperature. Heating is made by a boiler, in the design of which can be turned on pump. Otherwise, it can be derived separately. The pump serves to download the cooled water into the heating device.

At the entrance to the boiler is mandatory installed manometerallowing you to control the pressure in the heating system. Hot water enters the pipe system through collector. It also serves to remove the fluid.

The collector is a pipe segment, with two types of splitters: for hot and cooled water. As part of the collector, there are emergency plum systems, adjustment and system settings, valves that prevent reverse current fluid.

System mounting technology

Independent styling includes several stages: screed (or alignment), laying of thermal insulating and waterproofing layers, pipe distribution, flooring assembly, installation of a water heating device (boiler), installation of pipes, pouring screed.

All types of work must be carried out in compliance plumbing standards and security rules.

Each component design must have appropriate pressure Resistance Indicators, fluid or steam exposure.

Every stage is needed testing tightness And the strength of all devices.

Each water warm floor scheme can have its own distinctive features depending on the selected room type (bath, balcony, living room), as well as base material flooring (tile, wood, plastic, concrete screed).

These nuances and detailed descriptions of each installation phase are presented below.

Alignment of the base

The level of alignment required in the presence of irregularities is always accompanied by full removal of an old screed, cleaning the mud, dust of the construction garbage.

When the horizontal drops exceeding 10 mm, the procedure must be carried out.

The procedure can be executed "Dry" and "Wet" way. In both cases, the first stage is getting rid of holes and cracks With the help of a concrete solution or other designed for this construction mixture.

Under the "dry" method, the following works are carried out:

You need to start alignment from distant corners, moving to the entrance door. If projections or depressions are found during the work, you can get to them with the help of "building islands" - GVL sheets.

When using the "wet" method after removing the old screed on the floor, the primer is poured and flipped with foam rollers. For drying it is necessary to 5 hours. The following procedure is similar to the "dry" method, the only difference is to use water during clay seal.

How the pipes are stacked

Polystyrene plates are stacked on the aligned surface of the floor. They serve for temperature isolation and prevent the spread of heat in all directions.

The actual laying of pipes is carried out in two main ways: bifilarial (parallel rows) and meandrovo (spiral).

First type applied when there is a bias of floorsNo need for strictly uniform heated. Second - requires great effort and accuracy, applied when used multiple power pumps.

The number of contours depends on sizes of heated room. Maximum area for placing one contour - 40 sq m. Stacking pitch can be both uniform throughout it, and varying depending on the need for enhanced heating in certain zones. The average length of the step is 15-30 cm.

Since the pipes are experiencing a strong hydraulic pressure, then when installing water heated floor, their connection is unacceptable using couplings. For each circuit, you can only use one coupling.

It is recommended to use one contour for heating every room, including bathroom, loggia, storage room, shed. The smaller the contour, the higher its heat transfer, which is especially relevant for angular premises.

Mounting collector

The collector must contain the number of outputs sufficient to connect all the contours.

The same applies return collector. In the simplest version, it contains only the valves required for one-sided current of water.

Availability servo drives Allows you to open or closing the valves.

The thermostat makes it possible to set a certain temperature and expose it. It is associated with valves using controllers and is displayed in the system available to users.

Place the thermostat is necessary to remove from drafts, cold or hot air flows for adequate information transfer.

Installed collector at height 50 cm On the wall bracket or in a special box, mounted in the wall. Pipes are included in the corner retainer and are fixed using Euroconus.

To install the thermostat, you will need a cable with a length of 1.5-3 m and availability of sockets near With its location.

Hydraulic crimping system

After connecting pipes into a single system need to check their strength and tightness. To do this, they are completely filled with water and produced air. Controls the working capacity of all valves, visually checked pipes for leaks.

Repeated crimping is carried out after connecting the pump and barometers.

After the floor is covered with concrete, the pipes will be under pressure up to 30-40 MPa. Crimping is carried out under pressure, in 1.5 times higher than workingWhat is 60 MPa.

For this overlap all collector valves And pour air or liquid into the pipes. Pumping with water is made within 30 minutes, pressure control is performed several times between 1 to 2 hours when the pump is turned off. Permissible is the drop in the indicator 2 hours at 20 points.

Installation and connection with your hands of a gas boiler and a pump for a warm floor

Standard gas, operating from gas and serving hot water and heating of premises, has 5 conclusions consistently from left to right:

1. The outlet of hot water into the heating system.
2. The yield of hot water into the water supply system.
3. Gas feed.
4. Cold water inlet for heating and feeding.
5. Heating of cold water from heating (reverse).

Connections all pipes with heating element connectingInstalled using couplings and nuts.

The heating system is controlled separately from water supply, which makes it possible to independently connect.

The boiler from the collector of warm water floor should approach two tubes. One will pass the flow of cooled water, on the other, hot into the heating system.

The pump enters most of the modern boilers. In case of its absence, it is necessary to install it consistently with a collector and heater.

Mix for fill screed

Filling the floor or screed - a procedure requiring great care and accuracy. Avoid sex cracking When dried and during the operation of the system, you can, thoroughly observe the temperature regime and strictly following the instructions for the preparation of solutions.

For fill apply ready self-leveling mixtures for a warm floor or alone concrete based on concrete basis.

In the first case, the mixture is made on the basis of gypsum, require water dilution to the consistency of sour cream. Floor drying term in this case is from 3 to 5 days. During this period, it is recommended to minimize air humidity.

From the use of these floor screed solutions in rooms constantly exposed to water (bathroom, cellar) it is better to refrain.

Homemade mixtures are made on the basis of cement. Recommended brand - M300 and higher. The composition has the following mixture:

1. Cement - 1 part.
2. The sand is fine-grained - 4 parts.
3. Water. The addition of water is performed until the mixture acquires the test consistency. When making water, constant mixing is necessary.
4. Plasticizer. It makes it easier to carry out a screed, introduced in concentrations recommended by the manufacturer, ranging from 1 to 10% by volume.
   The criterion of proper consistency of the mixture is ability to sculpt some lumpswho do not scatter and do not spread. If the plasticity of the composition is not sufficient - the ball cracksSo, there are few liquids in the mixture. If the mixture is too liquid - it is necessary to add sand with cement.

Before the fill, the perimeter of the room is tightened by a damper ribbon that serves for noise insulationPreventing sex cracking when heated.

Pipes and cables are fixed with rigid clamps.

Screed is performed at air temperature from 5 ° to 30 ° (A number of professional mixtures allow laying at lower temperatures, they have a special labeling).

Maximum Square for one-time fill - 30 sq m. Large spaces are better divided into sections. In places dividing the surface on the plots on the pipes wear protective corrugated hoses.

The shelf life of the finished solution is 1 hourAt the expiration of which it is impossible to use it.

Pouring one site is produced promptly and in one reception.

Immediately after the procedure, the mixture is worth pierce in several places with a seer or thin needleTo ensure the yield of air bubbles. For these purposes and additional alignments, a needle roller or a rigid brush is used. The needle must be long the thickness of the layer of the solution.

Drying homemade mixtures occurs during 20-30 days and has a number of features:

1. Unacceptable sharp drops of temperature indoors, exposure to direct sunlight. This is fraught with uneven drying and subsequent deformation.
2. The surface of the floor is better cover the polyethylene film and periodically (once a few days) wash fluid.
3. After drying, it is recommended enable the heating system For several hours in moderate heat supply mode.
4. Recommended air humidity - 60-85%.

Before laying tiles, linoleum, parquet or wooden flooring heating must be turned off.

When using materials prone to cracking and swelling, air humidity must lower up to 65%.

The tile is placed on the tile glue, carpet, linoleum and laminate directly on the tie.

Independent installation of warm water floors is possible only if a sufficient amount of time, neat and clear compliance with all instructions and rules.

We offer to watch a video that tells in detail about the installation of water warm floors:

Want to make your home cozy, modern and warm? Pay attention to the warm water floor. In this article, we describe in detail all its advantages and disadvantages, tell me how to choose pipes and put them, describe the collector and control system.

Advantages and disadvantages of water warm floor. Preparation of the foundation. Montage nuances. Select pipes, methods for their laying, turn frequency and fixation options. Screw and dates of ripening.

Device and principle of operation

Water warm floor, this is a room heating system in which the coolant circulates along the contour under the floor coating. Please note that not always the pipes are in the screed. There are "flooring systems" in which the contour does not poured concrete.

With a detailed consideration, the waterproof cake consists of the following elements:

1. Prepared grounds;
2. Screed (5 cm);
3. Heat insulator (5 cm);
4. Pipes (2 cm);
5. Screed (4 cm);
6. Outdoor coating (2 cm).

Depending on the pipes used, there may be several layers of waterproofing. The base is a draft floor in the basement or on the first floor of a private house. The first string layer is required in the absence of a smooth surface.

The heat insulator is a thickness of 5 cm - the standard solution. But if it is possible, it is better to increase the thickness of up to 10 cm. This is 10-15% increases the efficiency of the entire system. Especially if the water warm floor is arranged on the first floor. The best material for this layer is extruded polystyrene foam.

Pipes in the overwhelming majority of water warm floors are used with a diameter of 16 mm.

The second layer of the screed closes the entire system and serves as a gigantic heat battery.

The thickness of the water warm floor cake, varies from 18 to 23 cm. And the mass of 1 m 2 of this system reaches a quarter ton! Such rigid conditions, significantly limit the propagation of water warm floors.

The circuit is connected to the pump and the boiler through the adjustment and control system.

Where you can use

In view of sufficient thickness and mass of the entire system, its use is limited to private house-building. In the apartments of water warm floor it is extremely irrational.

The main reason is difficulties with power connections. You can connect to the central heating system only after resolution from the controlling organs. And it is almost impossible to get it. Even if it is, the main leitmotif will disappear - autonomy. We know options with installation in the apartment of electrical and even gas boilers, but these are isolated cases that only confirm the rule: water warm floor use only in private houses.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of water warm floors are completely revealed only when using cheap energy carriers, somehow: gas, coal, firewood. Heating of the coolant electric boiler, approximately 7 times more costly than when using gas equipment.

Gigantic heat capacity of the water warm floor system, another plus. The room in which ≈ 100 kg / m 2 of the heated concrete cannot be cooled quickly (only the top layer of the screed is taken into the calculation).

But there are also cons. First of all, it is monstrous inertia. To warm up such a layer of screed, time and energy is necessary.

Inertia brings to the fact that the temperature of the water warm floor temperature is very conditional. The controlling equipment removes the temperature indicators from the coolant, the surface of the floor and air (in some thermostators). But the changes made through the thermostat, very slowly manifested.

Installation of water warm floor

The task is quite complicated, but done. Only you need to align the base. This is a very important requirement, given that even the equal to the first layer of screed is more effective. Why?

For example, the height difference in the room is 3 cm. If you immediately put the pipe and only then align with a screed, it turns out that in one angle, the height of the cement mixture will be minimal - 4 cm, and in the other 7. So during the operation of warm floors, with One side they will warm up 4, and with another 7 cm concrete. Such an uneven load is very detrimental to the entire system as a whole and leads to rapidly sputtering outdoor coating.

Therefore, the first and important stage is the leveling of floors by the level of the horizon. To prepare concrete floors, it will be necessary:

• Light profile;
• Laser level;
• Construction kitchenage;
• 5-10 kg of gypsum;
• Primer;
• Mobile concrete mixer;
• Cement;
• Polypropylene fiber.

Proceedings:

The floors sweep and ground. While the soil dries, the lighthouses are exposed. To do this, in the middle of the room install a laser level with such a calculation so that the projection of the horizontal beam was at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. Then the coolee measure the height from the floor to the beam in different angles of the room and the results determine the highest point. In this place, the height of the screed will be minimally permissible - 4 cm. In the rest of the places - according to the need.

For the installation of beacons, the gypsum is bred to the state of thick sour cream. Then small handhes along the same wall made from the resulting mass, with a step of 60-80 cm, the beacon profile is placed on them. Attaching the coal, align in the level of the horizon, having it at the desired height. From the wall to the first lighthouse should be 50 cm. Between neighboring beacons, the distance varies depending on the length of the rule (orient to 1-1.3 m). Consider, the gypsum grabs quickly, the work is carried out "without a swift".

After about 30-40 m, you can fill the screed. Cement is bred with PGS in a 1: 5 ratio. Polypropylene fiber is added from the calculation of 80 grams. per 100 l of mixtures. Fiber is an element of dispersed reinforcement, efficiently increasing the strength of the coating. In addition, after frozen, the new surface will be perfect smooth.

Poured the resulting mixture so that each next portion, 10-15 cm visited the previous one. In terms of the level of the screed is leveled by the rule, with the orientation of the lighthouses.

After filling the entire surface, it takes time for the technical ripening of the cement-sand screed. Calculation, approximately following 1 cm thickness - 1 week.

Laying thermal insulator

Extrusion polystyrene foam and crosslinked polyethylene foam, only these two material can be used for thermal insulation device in the water warm flooring system.

Before laying the heat insulator sheets, the perimeter of the room is glued with a damper tape with a thickness of 10-12 mm. It serves not only to compensate for thermal expansion screed, but also to prevent heat from leaving the walls. Height, it should be beyond the boundaries of the top layer of the screed.

Sheets of thermal insulator lay out the rotor and necessarily on the layer of waterproofing. For waterproofing, it is best to use a polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.2 mm.

If you decide to make a thickness of thermal insulation 10 cm, it will be better if you put two layers of plates with a thickness of 5 cm. Mandatory with disperse between the layers.

There is an option to use special plates as a heat insulator, designed to organize water warm floors. Their difference in bobbs on one of the surfaces. Between these bolsters, the pipe is placed. But their cost is unreasonably high. In addition, not all pipes will be kept in such plates. For example, polypropylene and polyethylene pipes are too elastic, additional fixation will be required for them.

Fastening pipes to the thermal insulator is not performed. Fasteners should pass through the polyplex layer, and fix in the screed. This is a very labor-intensive process, given the amount of work.

Mounting tapes are a more acceptable solution, but they are very difficult to lay a pipe with a spiral (snail).

The optimal option will be fixed pipes on the grid. At the same time, the grid will serve precisely for fasteners of pipes, and not for reinforcing the screed.

There are special meshes from biaxial oriented polypropylene, and you can use a simple masonry grid.

Pipe selection and laying them

The following types of pipes are suitable for water warm floor:

• Copper;
• Polypropylene;
• Polyethylene pert and pex;
• Metal plastic;
• Corrugated stainless steel.

They have their own strengths and weaknesses.

Characteristic Material	Radius	Heat transfer	Elasticity	Electrical conductivity	Life time*	Price for 1 m. **	Comments
Polypropylene	Ø 8.	Low	High	Not	20 years	22 R.	It is bent only with heating. Frost-resistant.
Polyethylene PERT / PEX	Ø 5.	Low	High	Not	20/25 years	36/55 R.	Do not withstand overheating.
Metalplastic	Ø 8.	Below the average	Not	Not	25 years	60 R.	Bending only with special equipment. Do not frost-resistant.
Copper	Ø3	High	Not	There is, requires grounding	50 years	240 R.	Good electrical conductivity can cause corroded. Emergency required.
Corrugated stainless steel	Ø 2.5-3.	High	Not	There is, requires grounding	30 years	92 R.

Note:

* The characteristics of the pipes are considered when operating in water warm floors.

** Prices taken from Yandex.Market.

The choice is very complicated if you try to save on yourself. Of course, the copper to consideration can not be taken - very expensive. But here is a corrugated stainless steel, at a higher price, has exceptionally good heat transfer. The difference in temperature in the return and on the feed, they have the largest. This means that the heat they give better competitors. Given the small bend radius, easy to work and high performance, this is the most worthy choice.

Laying pipes is possible to spiral and snake. Each option has pros and cons:

• Snake - simple installation, almost always observed the "zebra effect".
• Snail - uniform heating, material consumption increases by 20%, styling more time-consuming and painstaking.

But these methods can be combined within the same contour. For example, along the walls of "looking" to the street, the pipe is laid by a snake, and on the rest of the area snail. You can also change the frequency of turns.

There are generally accepted standards for which professionals are focused:

• Step - 20 cm;
• Pipe length in one contour no more than 120 m;
• If there are several contours, then their length should be the same.

For stationary and large-sized interior items, the pipes are better not to start. For example, under the gas stove.

Important: Be sure to draw the scheme of laying in compliance with scale.

Styling start from the collector. Unwinding the bay fix the pipe according to the scheme. For attachment it is convenient to use plastic clamps.

Corrugated stainless steel is available in bays 50 m. It uses branded coupling for its connection.

The last element laid between the turns of the pipes is the thermal sensor. It pushes into the corrugation, the end of which is muffled and tied to the grid. The distance from the wall is at least 0.5 m. Do not forget: 1 contour - 1 thermal sensor. The other end of the corrugation is excreted to the wall and then along the shortest path is summarized to the thermostat.

Control and crimping system

Water warm field control system includes:

1. Pump;
2. Boiler;
3. Collector;
4. Temperature regulator.

Layout of all elements with compliance with technical parameters, a very complex heat engineering task. The mass of the parameters starting from the number of fittings and the length of the pipes, and the end of the wall thickness and the country's region are taken into account. In general, you can navigate the following data:

1. The pump can only be used circulating. "Wet" type of pump, reliable "dry" and less demanding in service.

Use the following formula to calculate productivity:

P \u003d 0.172 x W.

Where W is the power of the heating system.

For example, at the power of the system 20 kW, the pump performance must be 20 x 0.172 \u003d 3.44 m 3 / h. Round the result in the big face.

The pressure is calculated by a more complex technique. After all, the pipes are arranged horizontally, and the pump characteristic shows the vertical pressure. Use the following formula: H \u003d (L * K) + Z / 10. Where L is the total length of the contours, K - the coefficient of pressure loss from friction (indicated in the passport of the pipe, is translated into MPa), Z - the attenuation coefficient of pressure in additional elements

Z 1 - 1.7 thermostat valve;

Z 2 - 1.2 mixer;

Z 3 - 1.3 valves and fittings.

This looks like this, let's say, there are 3 contours, 120 m. In the amount there are 18 fittings, 3 thermostat valves, 1 mixer. Pipe - corrugated stainless steel Ø16 mm, loss coefficient 0.025 MPa.

H \u003d (120 * 3 * 0.025) + ((1.7 * 3) + (1,3 * 1) + (1,2 * 18)) / 10 \u003d 9 + (5.1 + 1,3 + 21 , 6) / 10 \u003d 11.8 m. The result is rounded into the large side - the pump pressure is 12 m.

1. The boiler power is calculated by the formula w \u003d S * 0.1. Where s is the house area. There are also a mass of correction coefficients, depending on the thickness and material of the walls, the house, climate of the region, the floor, the presence of adjacent rooms.

Note that the water temperature at the output must be more than 30 - 35˚C. To withstand the temperature, the mixer is installed before the collector. It is mixed in it to the desired temperature before feeding into the contour.

1. The collector regulates the water supply in each circuit. Without him, the water will go along the way the smallest stream resistance, that is, along the shortest contour. Adjustment is carried out by servo drives, according to the data from the thermostat.
2. The thermostat is observed behind the temperature in controlled premises, removing the indicators from the thermal sensors.

Before crimping the contour is washed and only then connected to the collector. Water is fed under normal pressure, but the temperature is increased by 4˚C per hour, to 50 ˚C. In this mode, the system should operate 60-72 hours. Important: During crimping, constant control is required!

At home, without the use of special equipment, it is impossible to pressed with high pressure.

If the check did not reveal the installations of the installation, then you can start further operations.

Screed

Important: The top layer of the screed is poured only when the contour is filled. But before that, the metal pipes ground, and is closed with thick polyethylene film. This is an important condition for preventing corrosion due to electrochemical interactions of materials.

The issue of reinforcement can be solved in two ways. The first is to put a masonry grid on top of the pipe. But with this option, cracks may occur in the consequence of shrinkage.

Another way is dispersed fiber reinforcement. When pouring water warm floors, steel fiber is best suited. Added in the amount of 1 kg / m 3 of the solution, it will evenly distribute all over the volume and will qualitatively increase the strength of the frozen concrete. Polypropylene fiber, for the top layer, the screed is much less suitable, because the strength characteristics of steel and polypropylene do not even compete with each other.

Install the beacons and mix the solution in the above formulation. The thickness of the screed must be at least 4 cm above the surface of the pipe. Considering that the pipe Ø 16 mm, the total thickness will reach 6 cm. The ripening time of such a cement screed layer is 1.5 months. Important: Accelerate the process including floor heating - unacceptable! This is a complex chemical reaction of the formation of "cement stone", which occurs in the presence of water. And heating will cause her evaporation.

You can accelerate the ripening of the screed when inclusion in the recipe for special additives. Some of them cause full hydration cement after 7 days. And besides this significantly reduces the shrinkage.

You can determine the readiness of the screed, if you put a roll of toilet paper on the surface, and cover it with pots. If the ripening process ended, then the paper will dry in the morning.

First inclusion

Very important stage of operation of a water warm floor. In order not to crack the screed from uneven warm-up, and did not damage the pipes, the inclusion is carried out according to the following scheme:

1 day - temperature 20 ˚C.

2 days - increase the temperature by 3 ˚C.

3 And the next day, raise the temperature of 4 ˚C, before going to the operating mode.

Only after that, you can move to the installation of the floor covering.