It is difficult to imagine life without making a hot bath. Water procedures are beyond and at the same time relax the human body. If the bath installed in your home / apartment has already served your term, then it will have to be replaced. Baths made of steel, today enjoy the greatest demand. From this article you will learn that the installation of the steel bath with your own hands is quite forces to everyone.

Because of its massiveness, the cast-iron bath will stand reliably as it is not installed. This will not be said about the steel bath. Installing it is important to ensure that it is adjacent to the walls from three sides. In this case, it will be reliably standing, and the water procedures will be safely implemented in it.

Adjustable supports

When buying a bath in the package includes adjustable supports. There are several types of supports, the safest support with self-adhesive overlay. This is important especially in cases where the manufacturer has provided fasteners on tightening bolts. When tightening or loading in places fastening enamel can be detached. In this way, the self-adhesive pad is intended for this purpose, which levels the load. In their form, supports resemble a channel. They contain adjusting screws with plastic tips.

The best fastener that has short supports and long bolts.

Mounting bath on bricks

Because of its small weight, the steel bath is unstable. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of the manufacture of an additional support. The ideal option will be the paved brick frame. In the future, this support will be lined with a cafeter, so it will not spoil the appearance of the bathroom as a whole. By laying out bricks, you need to leave the window through which you can clean or replace the siphon. This window will need to install a decorative door.

Conduct the installation of the steel bath you can without much effort. The process itself is pretty simple and does not require special knowledge in construction. So that you all happen, closely follow the manual stated in this article.

First of all, you must prepare a place to install. At this stage, there must be conclusions of pipes and sewage pipes. Must be performed close to the wall.

Next, carry out fasteners. For this bath turn over the bottom. Under it it is necessary to put a soft material or packing cardboard. The first support is fixed as close as possible to the outlet. Another support is located as close as possible to the opposite end of the bath. At the same time, it should not be shifted from a smooth surface of the bottom. So that the offset does not happen, it is necessary to realize the richness of the carrier chapeller. But do it not on the bath, but aside.

If the supports are purchased by you have a self-adhesive surface, the bonding place is recommended to be treated with alcohol or acetone. The mounting bar must be tightly pressing the bottom surface. As a result, the support will be held very reliable.

If you want to eliminate the protective film from the surface of the bath, use for this hair dryer. A little heated film, it can be easily removed and no residues on the surface of the product will not remain.

Threaded adjusting studs should be scored in a plastic tip until it stops. It is necessary to do it very carefully to not harm the threads. Next take nuts that come in a set with supports, and wind them on the hairpin. After that, the nuts are lowered to the tip and screw the studs so that they become in their place in the supports.

If your bathroom is narrow, then supports should be collected directly in it. Carrying the bath, hold on to its edges, but, in no matter the legs.

By installing the bath on the support, it remains to align it in height and level. To do this, you can use the construction level, which is placed on the side of the bath. Do not put the bottom level, as it is originally flooded so that there is a sufficient stack of water into the sewer. At the end of the installation between the wall and the bathroom, a small slot may form. It should be sealed or foam. If you installed a bath on a pre-laid brick frame, then you will be left to put a tile. If you have not resorted to such technology, you can mount the protective screen. Given this, you can use another bath installation technology. Twisting metal hooks into the wall. Pre-make all the measurements. In the end, you will just wear a bath on the hooks. With this technology, make sure that the legs firmly stand on the floor.

It is also necessary to install a drain siphon. The scheme of its assembly is offered by the manufacturer. You have to assemble the design of the siphon with the help of precipitated nuts. Optionally, noise insulation and insulation of the bath is performed. This uses the usual mounting foam. Apply it to the bottom and side outer walls. Based on the size of the bath, you will need 4-5 foam cylinders.

To all of the above, it is worth adding several nuances that need to be taken into account when installing. The first nuance concerns the installation height. There are no special standards here. However, the height selection will depend on the installation method you choose. If you are using factory supports and want to set the screen, then there are two standard: height from the floor to the edge of the bath 55 cm or 65 cm. Remember that the steel bath is covered with an enameled layer of paint. And if you casually handle it, it can be harmful. Therefore, do not hurry with the installation.

So, you learned how to install a steel bath with your own hands. As you can see the work process is quite simple. You need a desire, and in the course of the work you will figure out with all the issues that arise. If you have experience in installing steel baths, then write comments at the end of this article.

Video

Learn great details about installing a steel bath from the provided video. Footage:

Photo

From the granted photos, you can clearly see the subtleties of the installation of the steel bath with their own hands:

Installation of the bath with your own hands - it's quite complicated. Bath - a bulky object requiring careful circulation; Complete enamel easily, but. Grind steel and plastic baths very carefully: the coating can crack from the deformation. It is impossible to plunge the cast-iron bath, but it is so heavy and durable that herself can beat the wall or the door. In addition, the installation of the bath has to do in close room. Therefore, the first condition for self-installing bath is a strong skillful assistant. One or with a stupid weak subsidist cannot cope.

The second point is the installation of plumbing instruments of the bath. It will have to do almost to the touch. That is, it is impossible to be a squirrel. You must have a tactile feeling; Simply put - your hands should be not only strong, but also skillful. And the third point is attentiveness and accuracy. Accidentally illuminated into a bath bowl tool can cause it irreparable damage. And if the acrylic bath, then it will have to chop the deaf holes. Here you need to be extremely attentive: to pierce acrylic drill is very easy.

What to choose a bath

If the bath is supposed to be replaced, and not the transfer of existing one, then you need to immediately decide what to take:

1. Steel ("Tin") Cheaze and easy to work. A strong man with plumbing skills can set such alone. But the short-lived - "plays" during the bay / release of water, which does not benefit enamel. Steel bath can be recommended if the bathroom is small and the bath can be installed close to three walls; In this case, the deformation from the alternate loads decreases by an order.
2. Cast iron - Eternal, with proper handling, but dear. It is very difficult to work with it: heavily. And it's not just a weight: to plant a cast-iron bath on already without damaging it, it is almost impossible. Siphon has to be attached to the bath in advance, but, the pork bath again it is easy to damage. In addition, if the bath on the decorative open legs, then its alignment is the work of the muorny, and the adjustable legs will easily break from lateral efforts, for example - if someone in it slip and slaps. So the cast-iron bath on adjustable legs can only be recommended for the installation of the three walls.
3. Plastic (acrylic) Baths serve until 15-20 years. It is expensive, but the cheaper cast-iron. It is necessary to work with her together, but without a donkey, like a cast iron, and without much difficulties. Damaged coating is easier than enamel. It can be said, an ideal option, except: the acrylic bath is unacceptable to hit aggressive detergents, nor concentrated or in an aqueous solution. In essence, you can only swim in it.

About heat loss baths

With current prices for hot water, the wash in the bath is a luxury, at the cost of it is not expected. In this regard, the importance of the power loss of the bathroom is acquired. In order of their increase, the baths are arranged in this way:

• Acrylic - the most economical. It warms up instantly and very slowly cool: plastic - poor heat conductor. If a temperature of 60 degrees is exhibited on the boiler, then it is enough for its 50 liters with water in 50 liters to fill the usual half-rolled acrylic bath.
• Steel - Not at all economical, as it may seem. It quickly warms up, but effectively gives heat into the space, in the form of infrared radiation. The boiler is needed for 80 liters, or on a 50-liter you need to set the upper temperature limit of 80 degrees. But at such a temperature, literally for the month or two "burnit" an expensive magnesium protector in it.
• Cast iron bath - Dead of calories. And herself herself for a long time, and the heat gives well: metal is still. The boiler is needed at least than 100 liters, and for money - the dispersion in the cast iron bath will cost 1.5 times more expensive than in steel, and 2.5 times more expensive than in acrylic.

Bathroom preparation

Walls

If the installation of a new bath is timed to the repair of the bathroom, then the wall lining is better to postpone "for later", after installing the bath. Why? Here, we put the bath close to the bare wall, made waterproofing of the gaps (see below). Facing tiles start the bottom, from the bath. The hanging bottom edge of the tile (it is also necessary to hydroize it after laying the tile) forms a kind of tear, much reducing the likelihood of rotting and mold.

Note: in This case is incomplete in height, a number of tiles will be in sight. For the sake of preserving decorative qualities of cladding it is better to put it in the middle of the wall height - it looks worse under the ceiling. If this strip on the wall is made from the tile of other colors, it may turn out even more beautiful than it was supposed.

If there is only a bath replacement, then the new on the legs, the adjusting screws of which are turned on 3/4 or 4/5, should be at least 2 cm above the old one. If the new one turns out to be lower, it will be difficult to make an aesthetic look. It will be difficult: although the facing tile does not fade, in its previously hidden part hidden a dirt from which not to get rid of.

Floor

Paul under the bath should be smooth and durable; Especially - under the cast-iron, which and empty weighs a lot. In this case, you need to make sure that the tile on the floor is laid on a solid cement with squeezing, and not on the "comb". Under the weight of the bath, the tile can crack from the slightest emptiness under it.

Note: in order not to transfer the floor and do not take care at all about its strength, you can put two boards-forty boards (lags) from larch (exactly from it, only tick is suitable from another wood, but there is no wide sale). The boards are laid along so that the legs of the bath come to them. The tree must be, and then proliferated or saturated with putty PVA through. A platform pillow will not only distribute the load on the floor, but also solve all the problems with the height of the bath, see below. However, before waterproofing of gaps and / or cladding boards, you need to give a shrinkage: fill the bath with water to the top and extend so at least two days, and better - a week.

Bath height

The height of the bathroom is important not only for its pairing with the facing of the walls and the convenience of sanitary work. Raised raised bath will allow you to install a siphon with a deeper knee. This is primarily important for hygiene purposes: the deeper the siphon, the less likely to leak through it in the reverse order of any infection from the sewage.

Then, the drain from the high bath will go more intense. For what time it will empty, it is not so important. Other It is important: an additional lifting of the bath is only 4-5 cm with properly selected drain fittings, almost completely eliminates accumulation on the flow grid and in the hair siphon. Who at least once took this one, to put it mildly, a very, very unattractive lump, knows what it means.

Choosing drain fittings

Material

The drain fittings of the bath is mainly made of two types of plastic: PVC and polyisopropylene. The second can be found in greater hardness and smoothness. Propylene fittings are more expensive, but has important advantages over Vinyl:

1. Polyisopropylene several times more stronger PVC; Accordingly, the probability of damage to the siphon during installation is less.
2. Polyisopropylene is durable and racks to aggressive media, it does not become fragile with time.
3. The microstructure of the surface of polyisopropylene is ironing than PVC, and not a tube, but a jet. Therefore, propylene plumbing is less prone to clogging than PVC.
4. Due to the same smoothness, the hydraulic resistance of propylene pipes is one and a half times lower than PVC. That is, the propylene overflow hose with the same section will miss more water, and less risk flood their neighbors.

typical plum assembly scheme for bathroom

Plum

Do not take a "Chinese" drain, collected on the bolt. Bolt degrees, even if the grid is stainless steel. After a month, the rust is so grabbing a bolt that it will be impossible to disassemble the drain: in which case it will have to break and put a new one. Change the bolt to brass or bronze no meaning: the material gentleter and the same grabbing. And to sharpen a stainless steel bolt is also meaningless: you do not know the brand of steel, from which the grid is made. Therefore, the bolt from another stainless steel in the water with the grid forms a galvanic pair, immediately will go cells with the same grasp.

Mesh plum

Also do not take drain with a grid in the form of a cross from two crossbars. Such a mesh is a very good hair catcher, and get out of there hardly and disgust. The grid of round holes located around the circumference is better. But the best (and expensive) option is a grid of oblique profiled gaps. In the bath with such a drain, you can manually wash the carpet, the hawk, flannel, and the stock will not break, and the grid will remain clean.

Cork chain

The usual chain of the traffic jams is shortly, and in any case, a salt of salts is covered, the attractiveness of the bath is not adding. There are drain devices with a remotely controlled plug, but they are roads and prone to breakdowns. Therefore, Tip: Immediately replace the chain on thick, 0.8 - 1.5 mm, fishing line, better painted, it is clearly visible in water.

Overflower tube

Do not take hard - this is the relic of the past. A flexible corrugated hose is more convenient to mount, and its lumen with the same outer diameter, which means it is less likely to overflow through the edge.

Bath installation

Tools and materials

To install the bath you will need some special tool:

• Rule. This is a flat rigid bar length in a bath diagonal. Need to align the bath level. Aligning on diagonals Even the amateur is made in two receptions, and 4-6 iterations need 4-6 iterations for alignment on sides, and it is often a cracked after that.
• Fork key for tightening output parts. Drokes do not grab, and the passatsia are extremely uncomfortable, and you can damage.

Little rubber hammer. It is needed to shrink the legs of the bath when assembling it. The cubs of the metal hammer due to the resonance can cause education in the enamel of microcracks, and the wooden mold will not give the necessary strength and impact accuracy.

Note: As a rubber hammer can be adjusted, stretching onto its spherical ovens of a drying hose.

Materials will need silicone sealant (sealants based on MS roads and significant advantages over silicone do not have) and x / b ("rag") of the tape, if the acrylic bath. From the tapes make a drill tracking limiter. PVC tape is easily slid. But absolutely reliable drilling depth limiter is a piece of the same darya hose, tightly stretched on the drill.



On alignment and interface with sewage

The main principle of alignment is to lift the outed angle, and not lower the raised. Remember the above the bath, the cleaner is drained. But, if a rigid rubber cuff is used to conjugate the exhaust pipe with sewer, it can simply not get into place, or turn out if it is already set, or breaking away.

Therefore, the final pairing with the sewer must be made after alignment, and take the cuffs to take a soft, micropower or neoprene so that the exhaust pipe of the drain could become a tilt. Instead of cuffs, it is preferable to use crude rubber or soft rubber sealant - it looks like white plasticine. The connection on it is absolutely reliable; The estimated service life is 100 years. In the USSR, he was known as "military sealant."

But the easiest option is to acquire drain reinforcement with the exhaust pipe of the sewn so that the gap can simply pour silicone. To blew the mounting foam it is impossible: it is strongly expanding when frozen; The influx from the inside can overlap the release, and everyone will have to redo.

Actually, the alignment to the diagonals is done like this:

1. The rule is laid on the diagonal of the bath, they put a level and achieve horizontal, tightening the adjusting bolts of the legs.
2. Turn the rule to another diagonal, repeat the procedure.
3. Check whether the initial diagonal has not risen. If the floor is even, this does not happen.

When aligning on sides, the level is placed on board the baths and adjust the legs of this side. Then go to another side, but after aligning there, the horizontal of the source side is knocked out, and it is necessary to repeat the procedure several times, gradually approaching the overall horizontality.

Note: it is necessary to achieve precisely horizontality. The tilt of the bottom of the bathhouse to the drain is already provided.

Seat preparation

The pipe of the sewer pipe and the pipe itself from the inside for the reliability of sealing should be dry. First, for this, when installing the bath, in no case should there be a flow from the kitchen.

Secondly, the sewer nozzle and the pipe flooring to half the sides, you need to dry well from the inside. You can not count if it is a bit, but you need to dry carefully. It is done, as you probably have already guessed, with a groom hairdryer, which can not always be correctly understood.

Therefore, on the day of installation of the bath Try to shoot anyone else's home. With the exception, perhaps an adult son is an assistant.

Scheme-example of the installation of the bath:



Installation of acrylic bath

To install an acrylic bath, you will have to first attach complete guides (lifts) for legs to her bottom. They are installed across the bottoms on special complete screws.

Marking of fasteners of lifes under the self-samples make strictly according to the instructions. If there is nothing about it there, it means that the positions of the lodents are standard: the front in 7 inches (17.78 or simply 17-18 cm) from the inner side of the edge of the drain opening; Rear - at the location of the bowl in the rear rounding.

The lunas are imposed perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath, with a pencil through the mounting holes in them, place the sites of the drills, and drill the drill with the limiter. The depth of drilling is 3/4 of the body length of self-press.

Then an inverted earlier bath put on the side and mount the drain fittings. There are nuances here:

• All gaskets are lubricated with silicone before installation.
• Plum gasket is installed outside.
• Gasket between overflow and overflow hose - conical, i.e. In the context of wedge-shaped. It must be put on the clina's edge to the hose crop, so that when it is tightened, it is trembling in space.
• Non-threaded connections are not tightened.

The bath turn over the bottom of the bottom, the legs are mounted. Adjusting screws are screwed with a mechanical to protrude equally. Next, the bath turn over and enter the bathroom; A more experienced worker should be from a plum.

Then the bath carefully put in place, closely inputting to the walls. Experienced while watching the bathing of the bath in the sewer nozzle. Then the bath is aligned, seal the release. While the sealant is not frozen, the fork key tightened the joints: who is bigger, sitting in the bath and sticks, and who has smaller hands, bend, reaching and twist: all turnkey places - outside. To frozen the sealant (if it is silicone; if a soft sealant is immediately tested on leaks.

If it does not flow, or eliminated - the same silicone seal the slots between the baths and the walls. The drums and influx of silicone are immediately removed with a rag moistened with vinegar. It remains to install the screen, but about it later.

Steel bath

Installation of the steel bath is made in the same way as acrylic, with the exception of the legs: they are inserted into regular fasteners and fixed with bolts, nuts on threaded studs or wedges. It is necessary to fix it with a neto, but gradually, hailing legs and cutting them with a rubber hammer. The legs should be sitting in their places like gloss.

Here, too, there is a nuance: if the backlash retaining of the leg allows, you need to pave them from the surface of rubber from the car chamber, you need to be paved under them in contact with the bath chamber. Then the bath will ring less when filling with water.



Cast iron bath

Installation of the cast-iron bath has its own characteristics: it is very heavy, and turn it risky to surround. Therefore, if the sizes of the bathroom allow, "naked" bath you need to immediately put there, and there it is already equipped with drain and legs. If the bath on decorative legs, then its alignment is also made in the "naked" form on the spot, and only then proceed to the equipment.

Alignment of the bath on decorative legs is a time-consuming and extremely responsible operation. The lining under the legs are reduced to no aesthetics, and the foot feeding requires accurate measurements and professional skills. And every time such a bath should be shed, turning over, and then put on the legs again and drag. Therefore, for a bath on decorative legs, floor of the bathroom needs in advance of high strength.

The cast-iron bath is also uncomfortable and risky once again put on the side for the installation of the drain. Therefore, it should be immediately put on two durable boards, and to mount the drain to lift the front edge by putting chocks or bricks under them. And it is extremely careful: "Spank" bath guarantees a hand fracture or a fragmented brush.

Plastic bath

In the sale there are cheap acrylic bath substitutes. When installing such a plastic bath, besides a particularly careful relationship to it, it is necessary to put a few chocks from larch treated under the legs under the feet under the bottom. With such a pillow, a budget bath may well listen to a dozen years.



Screen

The screen under the bath can be both and complete. The homemade screens are described by many, and their designs are distinguished by an amazing variety for such a simple device. You can select only one recommendation: do not bring the screen to the floor by 5-6 cm. The trash under the bathroom can not be visible, but such a gap will reduce the likelihood of the screen damage to the shower.

For complete screens, the base of the bath is provided for grooves or latches. In this case, the sealing of the input of the release into the sewer and the slots between the bathroom and the wall is made last. Installing the screen under the bath is carried out with the already aligned and standing on the place of the bath, the exhaust pipe of which is still hanging in the air in the middle of the sewage removal.

The bath is lifted, wear the screen to the place, and the bath is gently lowered until the top of the screen goes into the groove or does not grab the latches. Then seal the release and gaps. For sealing release in complete screens, hatches or sliding doors are provided.

Note:


1. If the complete screen is deaf, then you need to look for drain fittings with a flexible corrugated exhaust pipe. Then the sealing of pairing with sewage is done in advance. But this is not the best option: the maintainability of such a plum is zero.
2. For the bath with a complete screen, the litter of lags under the legs is not applicable, except that in some way to lift and screen. And it is necessary to align such a bath not only horizontally, but also in the height of the screen.

In general, it is not better not complete and not homemade, but the purchase screen for the bath. Such screens are supplied with adjustable legs. They can be adapted even to the bath standing on the spot: wrap the legs to the end, pushing, and turn off until the bath boot is on the bottom.

Summary

Independent installation of the bath, especially cast-iron - severe and difficult work. Newbie can be recommended to independently install only an acrylic or steel bath.

Did you start the overhaul of the apartment? Then the bathroom will require special attention. In addition, the choice of sanitary decisions today is most diverse - acrylic baths, cast iron, metal. And everywhere a wide selection of all kinds of forms, color versions, sizes. Installing your bath can pass differently. It also depends on the material, and on other characteristics, such as a form, value, installation location. In order to properly install the bath, it is necessary to qualitatively, need special knowledge and special professional skills. Therefore, you will be absolutely right if refer to the person skilled in the art.

Nevertheless, some aspects will not prevent and know in advance

What you need to know at the preparatory stage

Bathroom repair begins with the main questions: "What to put", "where to put" and "how to put". First of all, it is necessary to decide how to put a bath, to establish and adjust the water supply and sewer. And also, align the horizontal and vertical surfaces. Experts recommend to salae walls and floor tiles. How to install a bath in the apartment? The easiest way to work when the new bath is installed in place of the previous design. But if you started the global permutation of sanitary devices in the bathroom, then it is necessary to competently complain all the supply and taps of water and calculate the installation options. Most likely, without a plumbing here can not do.

How to install the bath? It is advisable to put it under the tilt depending on the place of the plum. So you will ensure complete water flow. Any plumber will explain to you that, otherwise, water (albeit in small quantities) is stirred, and this leads to the emergence of all hated "yellow spots".

How to put a bath right, depending on the form? For angular and rectangular models - their preferences. But the main thing is the design assembled, should not interfere with the approach to important communications and valves.

Sets of different types of baths

Consider the most popular options for installing the bath. The easiest thing is to install a cast-iron bathroom. This bath is very heat-resistant, the water in it remains warm. In addition, it has excellent sound insulation characteristics. And, of course, very heavy. But it is even plus, since thanks to its gravity, the bath does not require additional experiments with the installation. With the help of a specialist, pick up the bath of the desired size - and go ahead. As for the sizes, the main thing is not to guess, otherwise you have to adjust the walls or reduce the sidewalls of the bath.

Steel bath has thinner walls. By the way, that is why when water is poured, we hear a loud sound. The lack of such a bath on himself will immediately feel a person whose dimensions will not call miniature. The fact is that under the weight of the heavy owner or a large amount of water, the metal itself is most likely to begin to fuse and can damage the enamel.

That is why the correct installation of the bathroom is important. In order for the deflection to do not happen, the installation of the bath and finishing is accompanied by an installation of an additional foundation. Alternatively, put bricks under the bottom and fill the free space by mounting foam. Less often, but still use, reception with sand: the bath itself is inserted into the container filled with sand. In such cases, metal curvature can be avoided.

To note: the walls of acrylic baths do not tolerate large loads. Professionals recommend putting it on a metal base. Or reinforce the stability of the mounting foam. In addition, additional compounds with the wall are also needed.

Installation of the bathroom is better to produce as far as possible to the wall. Where the wall is connected to the edges of the bath, you need a benign waterproofing. Professionals advise the use of a special tape, all sorts of gazes and plinths (better, of course, ceramic, and not plastic).

As we see, methods for installing the bath can be different. And everywhere there is your professional nuances.

Bathroom installation in the bathroom is usually carried out by a specialist. Or at least in its presence. It will be difficult to do it yourself. Only the company's representative of the relevant profile will be able to give you a guarantee of high-quality installation. Or recommendations, how to install the bathroom correctly.

Basic installation rules

Like any other professional, plumbing, hearly knows the control rules for installing the bath and installation requirements. Consider some of them:

• According to SNiP standards (construction standards and rules), the surface on which the bathroom is installed, should be perfectly smooth. It is recommended to pre-lay the floor with a tile;
• To protect the bath from damage as much as possible, its installation is lasting, that is, when the rest of the repair work has already been completed;
• Not only the place to install the bath is chosen in advance, but also the height of the structure. It should be considered whether the tile will be put under the bath and what the font floor will rise to the floor or on a special podium, etc.;
• Each professional will tell you that not always included in the set of items for installation are ideal for a particular design. For example, you bought a bath from thin steel. After some time, enamel near the legs, most likely cracks. Here you should know about alternative fasteners - special corners with lining.
• Designer models are usually equipped with attractive legs. Therefore, the task how to install your new bath is solved much easier. Here it is enough to buy the bath itself, put on a smooth floor and attach to the sewer system;
• Otherwise, it may take the construction of a brick "foundation."

Even these examples are enough to entrust the bath installation by a qualified installer. You can do not just make the basis for the bath, but to complete it with its fold.

Order of work

If you briefly answer the question "how to install a new bath", in response you will hear a list of actions. So, the installation order of the bath looks like this:

• floor preparation;
• calculating the size and alignment of the bath relative to height;
• installation of a siphon, its connection to sewerage;
• installation of construction;
• tightness check;

But this is clearly not enough to fully understand how to properly install the bathroom. That is why we do not advise experimenting with such painstaking work. Moreover, if you do not have practical experience in repairing the bathrooms.

Buying a bath, be sure to check the availability of documents, such as installation instructions and quality certificate. In production documents, for example, it is indicated which a bay bias should be.

So, what should we need for high-quality bath installation? Mandatory mounting kit: screwdrivers and gas keys, hacksaw, zublogo and hammer, passage, perforator. As well as tape, mounting foam, sealant, cement, damping corrugations and funnels.

Features of installing steel bath

Easy model, unlike the cast iron bath, requires a solid installation. How to put a bath? Required its adjacent to the walls. Otherwise, the bath will not be maximum sustainable. Installation of the bath on the tile here is inappropriate. The bath is placed before tapping and regulated by additional supports. Self-adhesive lining - the most optimal option. If you use the bolts, you can damage the enamel.

• The preparatory stage does not differ from the installation of the cast iron bath. Just before installing the bathroom, the tile does not fit. Mounting of pipes relative to the mixing system is not executed outside, but in the wall;
• It is no secret that the question is how to assemble the bath, begins with the construction of the support. Bath assembly requires plumbing upside down. The first support is made not far from the drain hole, the second is closer to the opposite edge. The main thing is to mount on a flat surface. Schawler alignment with a hammer as possible as possible to the bath. Where the bath will contact with overlays, alcohol is carried out (you can use acetone). Before removing the protective film from the lining, heal them with a hairdryer;

IMPORTANT: In the room you should put a bath vertically, holding for flights (do not take it behind the legs!).

• As soon as the bath is in the prepared place, control is performed in height. How to align the bath? Between the sides of the plumbing and the walls are clogged (they will remove a little later). All gaps are poured by mounting foam. If you suddenly drew foam, it should be cleaned immediately, as then it will be impossible to do it. After the foam fiction, the clins are pulling out;
• Tiled pasting make close to the bath. Plumbing stack the film, in order not to blur and not scratch. The bathroom and tile shake is processed by the grout of the waterproof structure or silicone. The fact is that the mounting foam skips water.

Observe the installation sequence of the bath specified in the documents.

Features of the installation of the acrylic bath

In fact, the bath installation technology is not many different from those discussed above. Only supports are cling not to bolts, but screws. The space between the screws and the bottom is filled with the mounting foam. If suddenly there is no production recesses on the device for support, use the drill. It is very important, do not break through the bath through.

A particularly popular solution is to install an angular bath. Such plumbing is usually sold complete with a plastic screen, which is mounted after the completion of the main installation works. A screen is installed with a gap of about 2-3 mm.

On our site there is a special video tutorial on this topic. As well as a bath installation scheme.

Bathroom Plug Tile

Installation of the bathtub under the tile - the optimal solution to the question how to make a bath sustainable. Such material is considered more hygienic and practical. For facing the tile of the bath itself, it is not without installing the screen. And you can take a tile absolutely any bath. Such a cladding will be very harmonious in the bathroom interior. And, most importantly, it has the maximum stability of a special connection with the floor. The screen under the tile can be erected from brick or cement.

How to put a bath on the tile

Suppose you have a good floor tile in the bathroom. How to install a bath on the tile? To put the bathroom on the moving basis, it will be necessary to secure the basis of waterproof polymer glue. In order not to scratch the tile, experts recommend dressing the legs of the bath in plastic tips.

To learn more about how to install a bath on a tile, you can see photos, videos on our website. Also for you prepared detailed instructions.

Important Nuances Installation

• The legs are attached to the bath so that the siphon's output element is easily joined into the sewer pipe. If your siphon is cast iron, you will need to screw the steel tube into it;
• Bath must be installed with a bias;
• It is important to take into account the parallelism of the side of the bathtub relative to the floor;
• How to hermetically install the bath? The sealing of the joints is subject to mandatory verification. Little spaces between the wall and the side of the plumbing must be cemented with a triangular recess. And on the outer surface apply a layer of acrylic paint;
• The tightness of the places in contact with the bath and sewer system is also obligatory!
• In case the installation of the bath does not occur at the wall, and in the center of the room, the sealing of the edges of the bath is not important at all;
• Large slots are laid by brick, plastic plate or pipe with a special sealing layer;
• It is also recommended to connect the bath to the electrical normalization system. This connection is a professional installer makes a copper wire or steel strip;
• Before using the new plumbing, it is worth pouring about 10 liters of water into it. First hot, then cold;
• Installing a new bath with a hydromassage obliges to trace the supply of additional communication.

Conclusion

Such subtle technical moments once again prove the need for the intervention of professionals. They are available to you and understand how it is better to install a bath. For example, the hydromassage baths are so complex in the installation that a non-specialist cannot cope with the installation of such a gorgeous bath.

You can only tell the plumbers about your preferences, for example, where it is better to install a bath. How to hide the visibility of pipes and wires. These topics, professional installers will also give you a couple of useful tips.

Step by step will analyze the installation of the steel bath. I will safely blow it on legs, we learn about the installation tricks that increase the period of operation and characteristics of plumbing, we will make a niche under the bath from moisture-resistant drywall and the metal profile Knauf.

Step 1: Setting the legs

For installation, a steel rectangular bath of the Spanish company ROCA series Contesa with dimensions of 1700 × 700 × 400 mm is selected. The volume of the bath is 185 liters, and the thickness of steel is 2.4 mm. The main advantage of the steel bath is ease. The presented plumbing weighs 29 kg, so one person will quite cope with its installation. But install the cast-iron bath alone will not be easy. Its minimum weight is 80 kg and varies up to 180 kg. You have to connect an assistant or even a brigade.

Installation of the bath begins with the attachment of the legs. In order not to damage the floor covering, underwear something soft under the bath. Factory cardboard can not be removed yet, it is a reliable substrate from scratches. We turn the bath. Self-adhesive structures are considered good legs for fastening, as in our case, which repeat the bottom circuit. They have height adjustment, prevent breaks and irregularities of the floor. To install the bath on the legs, pre-try on P-shaped supports. After marking, degrease the surface with alcohol, providing a reliable clutch. Attach the design with the help of bilateral scotch. Supports fix exactly on both sides of the bath, avoiding the skew. There are also legs on bolted fasteners, however, we do not recommend applying them. They may not withstand the uneven load on the bath and damage enamel.

The set with legs includes long adjusting studs. They must be inserted up to the stop in plastic tips. We do it smoothly, follow the threaded connection. Customize the hairpin with a rubber hammer.

We proceed to the installation of studs. Pre-screw the nuts to plastic tips and screw the hairpin into the designed hole on the support. It is this detail that allows us to adjust the bath in height and the horizon.

Step 2: Collection of drain reinforcement

After installing the legs, turn the bath. Install the drain system. Unpack it and learn the instruction. We begin the assembly from the bottom drain.

Plug sockets set to the tube under the bottom of the bath. This element consists of two parts - a pipe with a funnel-shaped expansion and a cup-shaped chrome part that prevents large garbage from entering the drain system. During installation, the main thing is not to forget to put all the gaskets, and if you are not sure of their quality, use additionally silicone for reliable sealing.

Go to the connection of overflow. This element is represented by a tube, one end of which is installed in the upper hole under the side of the bath, and the second is to the lower plum, outputting into the sewer. When buying a set, choose a corrugated overflow tube. It is simply mounted, has a greater clearance of the outer diameter than the rigid tube, and therefore the probability of overflow of water through the edge is minimal.

The modern market offers two baths for baths. The most famous set with a plug on the chain and with an automatic cork. In the second version, the discovery (closure) occurs with the help of a mechanism that is mounted on overflowing, as we have. In this case, there is no need to lean and pull the plug, it is enough to turn the lever.

This is how the final version of the drain system is found.

Step 3: Calculation of the height of the bath and installation of the stop

Calculate the height on which the bath will be installed. The correct measurement will ensure not only good fit with facing tiles and the supply of the sanitary node, but also allow you to install a siphon with a deeper knee. The probability of seeping outsiders in this case is minimal. Additional lifting the bath just 5 cm will also eliminate the accumulation of hair and garbage in the siphon and the metal mesh.

To strengthen the bath with the wall, insert the stop, the main thing is that it is stable. We used the metal profile of the company Knauf.

Fresh profile with a dowel-shuropov, choose yourself. It is desirable to mount fastenings as often as possible.

So it looks like a metal focus after attachment on a dowel-shurahop.

Step 4: Installation Baths for Bricks

Return the bath and put it in place. Since the drain hole in the wall is high and the length of the legs are not enough, you have to install a bath on bricks to level the level. In addition, the metal legs are not durable and heavy, can easily reveal under body weight or water. The beauty here is not the main thing, since in the subsequent you will close the niche under the bathroom with plasterboard, and facing the cafeter. When laying bricks, do not forget to leave enough space from the siphon so that you have free access. Brick laying are carried out on cement-sandy solution.

Watch the line by the wall and move the bath. We apply silicone sealant to the screwdriver profile, and below the marked line. After the silicone caused, put the bath to the previous place.

I exhibit the bath exactly by level with the help of adjusting bolts.

Silicon sealant close the adjoining between the bathroom and the wall.

In order to firmly fix the legs and prevent slipping, we strengthen their brick fragments, the joints are embroidered with cement mortar. Especially firmly close legs when installing a heavy cast-iron bath.

After we pulled the rear corner of the bath and securely attached it to the wall, on the ends, we attach a pink for stiffness, sitting it on the tile glue.

Step 5: Connection of a siphon with sewage and checking

When silicone sealant and glue will be angry, proceed to connecting the siphon to the sewer plum.

Connection will pass with a rigid design. For system divorce, we use corners under 45 ° C. Unlike a corrugated tube, such a system is easier to operate and clean. If the break occurs, it is enough to open a locking armat and clean the drain.

So the system should look like after connecting the rigid siphon to sewage.

Install the bottom plum plug and the swivel lever to open and close the lateral drain.

To check the quality of the drain system, open the tap and fill the bath with water. With a closed plug, there is no leak - the upper neck is assembled correctly.

When the bath will be filled with half, open the cork, check all other connections on the probability of leaks.

Everything is dry, the bathroom can be used. If leaks are observed, most likely, you looked loosely tightened the nuts, skewed was formed, or the adapters were not tightly fixed. Tighten the nuts and direct the design in the desired direction.

Step 6: By blowing foam and casing niches under the bath

Despite the advantages, the steel bath has two main disadvantages - water in it quickly cools and increased noise when the water is set. Budget version of the elimination of these problems - blowing the installation foam. Installation of acrylic and cast-iron bath does not require this procedure. These materials have good noise insulation and low thermal conductivity. However, if you want to improve their qualitative characteristics, no one forbids you to blow such baths. The mounting foam is better to apply on a moisturized surface than on dry, small sections. Around the technological holes, leave a small gap, about 2 cm. Excess foam is easily removed using a sharp blade.

We proceed to assembling the frame from the ceiling profile. Here you again use Knauf profile. We start with the layout of the depth and width of the niche. We mount the guides to the floor and fix them with the help of a dowel-nail. We establish a profile on the sides, deepening it into a niche on the thickness of the sheets of plasterboard and tiles with glue. Together, this distance will be approximately 22-24 mm, taking into account that the thickness of the plaster sheet is about 12-13 mm, and the tiles with glue are 10-11 mm. It is better to take the distance with the reserve. If niche is slightly recessed, not scary. But the discharge plate will look ugly. Side strips connect with a wide ceiling profile, fixing them close to the side of the bath, gaps. Fix vertical profiles in the middle using self-tapping screws.

We proceed to the trim, we use the moisture-resistant plasterboard Knauf. Standard sheet size - 3000 × 1200 × 12 mm. There is no more than one such sheet on the bath for up to 170 cm. For the inclined surface of the niches, measure the rectangle of the desired length and widths, cut out and secure. We sew the rest of the niches. The resulting space between the inclined and direct part is closed with carved triangles from drywall. We do not pay attention to small gaps, these errors will not be visible under the tile. After the trim, we do the window of the desired size and install a sanitary hatch. The final stage is the applying of glue and cladding with tiles.

Step 7: Sealing Silicone seams

The missing tile between the bathroom and the wall is laid, the seams are lost, now we proceed to the last stage of the finish - sealing seams. Purify the seam between the bathroom and the wall, we wipe all dry. For sealing, we will use white silicone, which will not give water to leak through the side of the bath.

So that silicone does not smell the tile and bath, we glue around the perimeter the barrier in the form of painting tape. It will prevent the sealant on the facing and plumbing.

Purified and prepared seams fill in white silicone sealant.

We make seam even, smear it with a neat finger, plastic blade or spatula. Surplus sealant wipe the wet rag.

When Silicone snacks slightly, carefully remove the malarious tape.

After Silicone finally hardens, the bath is ready for use.

18667 0 4

Four ways to fasten the bath yourself

Hello, dear readers! In this article, I will tell you how to fix the bath. Despite the fact that modern plumbing is pretty simple in the installation, with questions on the installation of baths blog subscribers are often referred to. Therefore, I propose to consider how the widespread plumbing made from metal and from acrylic on the example of the work has already been attached.

Actual ways of fasteners

In accordance with the peculiarities of the bath location, the following installation types differ:

• fastening on the floor, when plumbing is installed separate on one or that distance from the walls;
• fastening to the floor and to the walls is the most common option when installing the corner plumbing or in the case of the installation of the bowl in the niche.

In accordance with the type of fasteners used, it differs:

• installation on brickwork - a universal solution that is often used for reliable and stable installation of metal baths;
• installation on unregulated or adjustable legs is relevant for steel and cast-iron baths in the configuration of which such supports are provided;
• installation on metal structures and adjustable supports are the most common option for attaching acrylic plumbing.

Method first - installation of steel bath on a brick

I suggest familiarizing yourself with the photo report on the installation of the steel bath Kaldeweisaniformplus with sizes of 1.7 to 0.75 m. The installed product has a standard configuration, but due to thick walls it is highly high. Considerable weight has complicated assembly and presented additional requirements for strength and stability of fasteners.

According to the instructions, the product is installed on special legs, which significantly simplifies the installation. But, in order to save it, it was decided to perform installation on brickwork. As it turned out later, the brickwork provided the best rigidity than the use of regular legs.

Do not know how to fix a steel bath to not swing? Read on and find out how to do it.

Installation technology

So, proceed to the arrangement of the bathroom:

• Unpack the bath and correlate its dimensions with the size of the landing place;

Attention! For a successful installation of the bath in a niche, the distance between the sides of the bowl and the wall on each side should be at least 2.5 cm. On the installation, this requirement does not apply.

• We establish a bowl on the strips, which put back to the offstairs of the sides;

• Checking Waterpas the position of the bowl relative to the horizon and, if necessary, align, changing the installation angle of the strut;

• Lay out brickwork under the parts of the bath, where the presence of legs were originally assumed;

• The last row of masonry is removed close to the wall of the bowl using the brick pieces for this;
• After the laying dried, take the struts and check stability using its own weight;

• From the brick along the perimeter of the bath, we post the screen for the very side.

In this case, the screen performs not only the decorative function, and among other things, it serves as an element that provides additional stiffness of the entire structure. The adjoining of masonry to the bottom of the side of the perimeter allows you to avoid the skew of the bowl even if the bottom backups are not durable enough.

So, we learned how to strengthen the steel bath so that it was not walking. But once again I draw your attention to the fact that this method is relevant for the metal and make such a masonry under the bowl of acrylic is not recommended.

The method is second - fastened to the wall and to the floor

So, we looked at how to mount metal plumbing on brickwork, now I propose to learn how to make a bath mounting to the wall.

In the photo you can see all the same Kaldeweisaniformplus bath with dimensions of 1.7 to 0.75 m, but this time the installation is not performed on the brickwork, but on the regular support structure.

Specifically, in this case, it was too late that the heel of the supporting legs of smaller smaller than we were intended initially. That is, it was planned to install under the height of the side of 59 cm, and the bath along with the fully twisted legs has a height of 56 cm.

The problem was solved by cutting slices of tiles, which were subsequently glued on the place of the arrangement of the legs.

Fastening to the wall with a sealing silicone

On top of the profile, departing from it 1-2 mm, caused a strip of silicone sealant.

Installing plumbing for glued on silicone pieces of tiles can not be not earlier than a day after silicone completely polymerizes.

So now you know how to attach to the wall and floor metal plumbing. It remains to learn how to fix the popular acrylic plumber today?

Method Third - Installation of acrylic corner bath on regular supports

How to strengthen the bath so that it is not risen if it is made of acrylic?

Consider in more detail the steps listed on the instructions:

• Acrylic bowl with your own hands free from packaging;

• Establish on the floor of the bathroom covered and turn the bowl on it (this is a measure of precaution against the formation of scratches)
• We remove the sizes from the sides of the bowl and correlate with the size of the landing place;

In order for the angular bath to be quickly and efficiently installed, make sure that the two walls of the planting place converge at right angles. The lack of direct angle says that there will be a gap between the side and one of the walls that is very difficult to cover.

• Unpack the components from which the frame will be made;
• Expand separately, all components in order for them to be more convenient to collect;

• In the ends of the feet insert the plugs and snatch them;

• We screw into the adjusting legs of the studs (inside the legs there is a thread);
• Having twisted two lock nuts on the hairpin;
• We collect a profile from which the frame will be performed;

• In the hole on the insert in the profile, screw the heel of the adjusting leg;
• One locknut coolant close to the profile, and the second to the foot to the design is durable and stable;

• Prepared profiles set on the cup and screw themselves with self-draws that are included in the kit;
• For the assembly of another profile, we prepare one short and one longer hairpin;
• Short hairpins screw and connect in conjugays as other legs;

• We screw the long stud with the side of the profile, which will be located on the side of the start side of the bathtub;

• On the twisted long heel, plastic legs set on both sides, that is, one leg will rest in an acrylic board, and the other in the floor;

• Installed on both sides of the legs with contact with nuts;

After the support legs are installed on the profile, their plugs should be placed on the same level. You can check the location of the extreme points of the support legs by a ruler by measuring the distance from the profile surface to the surface of the plug.

• We turn the collected design and install on the seat;
• We check the level of the position of the bowl by applying it to the sides;
• If there is a need, we will tell the nuts on the supports, align the legs and re-tighten the lock nuts.

Fourth way - reinforced attachment of acrylic baths

So, just we learned how to install an acrylic bath on the support legs. But as long-term operation shows, this method has a significant drawback. On the plot between the fortified profiles, the bowl of crunches under the weight of a person.

Of course, this deficiency is not critical, but it is better to eliminate it. For these purposes, standard-concrete blocks are 625 mm long and 250 mm thick.

In order to install the bath on blocks with standardotiramearm cells, when assembling the fastener frame profiles are separated by a distance of at least 65 cm.

The blocks are installed under the bowl on the mounting foam. After the foam completely freezes, the bath will stop crunch and become fixed. The price of this method is minimal, as you have to purchase only a few bricks and a foam balloon.

Consider in more detail what the fastener gain instruction:

• With the help of adjusting supports, we raise the bowl for the maximum height;
• Under the cup around the perimeter, on which bricks will be laid, blow the strip of the mounting foam;
• We put the blocks on the foam, on the surface of which is pre-applying the foam strip;
• With the help of adjustable supports, we lower the bowl on the foam and the contamus of the support with nuts.
• After a day, plumbing can be used for its intended purpose.

In order for foam to better lipla to blocks and to the floor screed, mounting surfaces need to be mixed with water sprout.

Output

In this article I talked about how to fix the bath to the wall and the floor. I hope, now with the arrangement of the bathroom room you will not have problems. However, if any questions appear on the implementation of installation, I will be glad to give an exhaustive answer on them.

September 5, 2016.

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