What you need to make aquarium. Aquarium made of glass with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions and additional equipment. Choosing materials for design

Many of us have an aquarium at home. Someone because of love for the sea and maritime inhabitants, someone for aesthetic reasons, and someone just like to watch the life of a small ecosystem. The reason is not so important. Aquarium is an interesting, beautiful and most importantly convenient element of any interior.

However, it has one essential drawback - a glass case. There are frequent cases when the glass enclosures of the aquariums crackle or differ at all into pieces, which makes them further operation impossible. What to do in such situations? How to glue aquarium at home? Read the answers to these questions below in the article.

You need to think in advance: choose the "right" aquarium when buying

To avoid situations when your small water ecosystem is collapsing due to broken glass, you need to take care of everything in advance.

Choose the "correct" aquarium when you only buy it! To do this, you will need some knowledge, for example, what kinds of aquarium glasses exist and, in fact, the aquarium with which glass to choose. After all, buying a product that is made of high-quality material, you will already provide yourself half of success, and the question is: "How to glue an aquarium?" Then it will not find you surprise.

Basic criteria for selecting aquarium made of high-quality material

Choosing and paying the goods in the store, you need to make sure that the glass of the aquarium corresponds to the elementary standards. It should be not only aesthetically attractive, but also to provide a good overview of the aquarium deep into the aquarium, as well as to withstand the water pressure necessary for its operation. In addition, there are several basic rules to which every buyer of this glass product should be relying.

Pay attention to the grade glass. Today, according to international classification, there are 8 such varieties: from M1 to M8.

M1 grade glasses are the most durable and high-quality, so they are recommended for the development of most aquariums. Within the norm also use glass material M2 and M3 grades. The glasses of worst quality, as a rule, are not suitable for the design of aquariums and are not used in the works. However, there are different developers, so find out this information from the store's seller if it is not in the product documentation.

Glass for your aquarium should be silicate origin.

Do not buy a product having an organic glass case, as it is low-quality, and the substances in its composition can adversely affect your favorite fish. Remember this.

You buy a reliable and externally attractive aquarium when you find a showcase glass in its design. The fact is that the surface of such material is carefully polished, it is smooth and pleasant to the touch. The showcase glass is more expensive than usual, but the money spent are worth the amazing species that you can then watch through it in your small water world.

Buying goods, carefully inspect the whole surface. Glasses should not have any defects. Remember that even a minor crack or scratch may in the future lead to the fact that with the slightest blow your aquarium will simply figure out.

These are only the main characteristics that will help you choose a quality product. However, what should I do if the material turned out to be a low-quality and glass case cracked? How to create a new aquarium? And what to glue the glass aquarium? Let's deal with it.

Glue selection for repair work

The first question, the answer to which is interested in all those who faced the need to repair or create a new aquarium with their own hands, sounds like this: "And what to make an aquarium?". And indeed, it is quite important to choose a good adhesive tool for this. Many building stores offer a huge range of similar means. Your case is to choose the best of all offered.

Good glue: What is he?

There are several main aspects in the right choice of glue.

First, high-quality glue for the construction of a design that is dealing with water should provide it with complete waterproof and tightness.

After all, if the glued aquarium will flow, then its use will be impossible and repair is simply meaningless. Secondly, before gluing a cracked glass and choose a tool for this, you must first decide on the design of the appearance of your future aquarium. Perhaps you want to change it?

Then consider that all hermetic adhesives for repairing such structures are mainly two species: transparent and black.

The first are most suitable for beginners in this matter, since even coarse errors will not be noticeable after gluing. Black waterproof adhesives are used by more experienced masters, they perfectly decorate and complement the design of large tanks. The choice is yours. However, if you are new and for the first time trying to glue the aquarium with your own hands, then choose the transparent hermetic glue.

Several Best Adhesives

Reliable glass tanks glue silicone glue. They have all the necessary properties in order for the result of your repair to be durable, and the repaired aquarium served for many years. Silicone glue, first of all, is characterized by excellent isolation of aquarium space from the outside world, as well as a high level of strength of gluing and waterproof. There are also other types of adhesives, such as epoxy. However, many of them have completely different destinations and are not suitable for solving specifically our task.

We provide you with a selection of several proven adhesives, with which you can perform work quickly and easily:

german glue Chemlux 9013;
a means that has proven well and has excellent adhesive properties - TYTAN;
leader on sales and quality - Dow Corning 911.

Read more about Clee, you can learn from the video:

Bonding aquarium: What do you need to know and take into account in the process of work?

So, we have already picked up the glue we need, now we proceed to the part of the article in which you will learn how to make the aquarium qualitatively and without more effort. The process itself consists of 6 stages. To glue different sizes of the aquarium yourself, you will need to strictly observe the phase of work.

Stage 1. Before starting the process, it is necessary to protect the glass of the future aquarium from pollution. To do this, you have a special painting ribbon. It is also required to degrease all the surfaces. It is possible to do it, rub them with alcohol or other substances that define acetone.

Stage 2. The correctness of the work carried out largely depends on the adhesive seam, which should turn out to be as smooth. Many masters achieve this evenness thanks to an easy technology: apply a little adhesive to the end. When it hardens, cut this mass so that a small protrusion remains above the glass. He will help you correct all the seams.

Stage 3. Directly all gluing work passes on a flat surface. Cover the surface with polyethylene. This will give it additional evenly and protects it from the accidental gluing of structural elements. Starting to glue the aquarium with your own hands follows from that glass that will be in front.

Stage 4. Exactly exhibiting the front glass (so that it does not fall, you can use, for example, jars with water), glue the lateral one. Then glue our aquarium gradually, connecting the rest of it. The remnants of the adhesive carefully remove, using a soft rag moistened in aqueous solution of vinegar.

All stages can be viewed on video:

Stage 5. Practically finished aquarium throughout the perimeter will cross the painting grid. Such a procedure will not give windows to deviate from its initial position. The collected design dries about 12 hours. Successful and warm conditions will contribute to the speedy and warm conditions. After the desired time, delete the painting grid, and also clean and check the seams on the strength, filling the aquarium with water.

Stage 6. In the event that the leakage is detected somewhere, you need to pull the water, dry the seams, and the problem area is again filled with glue. You can use the aquarium only after the final drying of all seams and only when you see its absolute tightness.

conclusions

Holding all the instructions induced in the article, you can not only choose and buy a ready-made aquarium, but even glue it yourself. In the case of the latter, the main thing is to remember that work with glass requires careful and neat appeal. Only then its results will be positive.

If you carefully inspect any rectangular aquarium, you can understand its simple design. In principle, this is an ordinary container made of glass segments. Make such a vessel is quite able to man who can handle the home instrument. There are, however, some rules and subtleties that need to know before the start of work.

The purchase of a finished aquarium almost any form does not represent problems: in pet stores, their choice is quite large. At the same time, there are quite a few aquarists that independently make tanks for decorative fish at home.

For this there are different reasons. For example, the owner of the fish lives in rural areas, and the transportation of a large glass design from the nearest urban pet store can be very problematic. Someone makes glued houses for aquatic livery for sale. But most often the meaning of the independent manufacture of this subject is the joy of creativity and the desire to save the money of the family budget.

Materials for work

Production of aquarium with their own hands provides for the mandatory availability of the following tools and materials:

special silicate glue;
a glue dispenser (the so-called gun);
glass cutter;
painting tape;
line or roulette;
sponges;
rods made of natural fabric.

Aquarium Glass Selection

Especially it should be highlighted on the quality of the quality and thickness of the glass. In working condition, the bottom and walls of the vessel are experiencing a significant water pressure. Consequently, with an increase in the capacity, the thickness of the glass should also increase.

For example, for a small aquarium with a length of 50 cm and a height of 30 cm, you need to choose a glass with a thickness of at least 5 millimeters. And when it is necessary to glue a large jar (1 m at 0.6 m, for example), there are already 10-millimeter glass.

If the organic glass is selected as the wall material for the walls, then the same calculations should be followed.

However, the masters-aquarists rarely work with the plexiglass, it quickly flies, and when cleaning the walls from algae, visible scratches appear on it.

There is a requirement to the glass grade. In our case, it is necessary to choose the material of the highest grade M1, without extraneous impurities and microscopic air bubbles inside. Glass of such a brand is usually used in shop windows.

When choosing the appropriate glue, preference is given to special silicone sealant for aquariums. It is necessary to make sure that it is harmless to living organisms. Save on silicone should not. Many aquarists recommend the German sealant Knauf 881 or SILIRUB Aquarium Soudal.

Making the simplest adhesive aquarium

Make an independently panoramic aquarium without special professional equipment can not, but a rectangular can make almost every home master.

Preparation of glass details

After careful measurement, glass for the bottom, facial and back sides, end walls are cut. Ironing ribs are not necessary to protect the best grip with sealant.

All glass parts near the places where the gluing will be performed, are sampled on both sides by the strips of the painting ribbon, the edge of which must retreat from the edge of the wall or bottom by 5-6 mm.

It is necessary that the glass is not dirty in the process of applying sealant. The places of the future docking should be deguted with acetone or White spirit.

Work with glue

On the entire perimeter of the bottom glass, it is necessary to apply a few drops of silicone, wait for 2-3 hours and cut off so that the frozen glue was a thickness of 1-2 millimeters. There are peculiar beacons that determine the thickness of the adhesive seam. It is very important that the glass parts do not touch each other to avoid breakage when exposed to load and lateral pressure.

Further gluing is made on a solid surface covered with polyethylene. It is applied and the facial wall is applied. So that it is not covered, you need to put backups on both sides.

Silicone should be squeezing evenly so that the seams turn out to be the same thickness. The end glass is then attached and seal. In relation to the front wall, it must be fixed by a painting ribbon. In the same way, the second end glass and the rear wall are glued. The remains of excessive sealant are neatly removed with a sponge or a damp cloth.

Depending on the type of sealant, the drying of the seams can last up to two or three days. At this time, the aquarium should stand in a well-ventilated place and not subject to any physical exposure. Capacity cannot be moved, moving, turning, otherwise air bubbles may appear in the seams, due to which the service life of the aquarium can be reduced later.

Immediately after gluing, it is better to put an aquarium on the side and pushed around the edges with something heavy, for example, books.

Before continuing reading, look at the video lesson, where the aquarium glass gluing methods are highlighted in detail:

Strengthening the walls

We will not be alike and the device of rigidity. They are made of strips of the same glass 6-10 centimeters wide and glued at the top of the vertical walls.

Ryra, which should be 4-6 cm shorter than each wall length, ensure uniform water pressure on the entire surface. This measure is particularly relevant for large capacities.

After a day, you can experience a glued bank under load. If there is no leakage, then the aquarium is ready.

By this principle, you can glue an increased volume aquarium. Naturally, it will take a thicker glass, a ribbon rumble at the top and bottom, as well as a system for fixing vertical walls when gluing with, for example, angular clamps.

How to embed aquarium accessories?

Depending on the equipment used (, external, etc.), it is necessary either in the side wall, or to cut holes in the bottom and gluing short pipes into them.

Some craftsmen gently cut off the necks from glass bottles, insert the neck into the holes the neck outside and tightly fixed around the circumference with silicone. Subsequently, the hoses of external livelifting devices are easily attached to these homemade adapters.

Write for aquarium with your own hands

The material for this important element can serve a plexiglass, simple silicate glass, plastic. It all depends on the size of the container.

With the advent of new building materials, the home masters began to abandon the heavy plexiglass and began to apply to create an aquarium cover foamed polyvinyl chloride, and simply put the PVC panels.

Making frame frame

If the aquarium is small, then the lid can also be made from an ordinary building plastic with a thickness of at least 3 mm. In any case, it is impossible to put it on the glass. Therefore, you first need to make the side of the same plastic, cutting the strip along the wall length of 6-10 cm. It will be the height of the side.

The frame is glued with a resin or special plastic glue. The angular connection is better to increase the metal corner (also sticks).

Fastening cover to aquarium

Interesting method of fastening board to the top of the banks came up with folk craftsmen: with the help of PVC cable channel.

On both sides, the cable channel has grooves in which the walls of the aquarium are inserted and the cuts of the board, so it immediately needs to be chosen under the appropriate glass thickness. All joints are worth losing silicone.

The hinges for lifting lid are joined to the back board. They can be either glued, or copped the bolted compound. A square slot is made in the plastic surface of the roof for its capture and raising. Through this hole also served food for fish.

If plastic begins, then from the inside the entire length should be enhanced with a light aluminum corner. This corner will be simultaneously fastening for lamps.

Technological holes

So that the wires and hoses came inside the aquarium space, at the stage of gluing the frame in the side of the side, the holes are neatly cut down. This can be done with a wide tree drill. Some owners of decorative fish drill the same holes in the opposite side, which contributes to the best ventilation of the actions.

Built lighting

Each aquarist chooses to his taste, but many masters advise to acquire luminescent lamps with a light ratio of not lower than 60 RA. The presence of this technical indicator should be clarified in the store.

If desired, the outer part of the lid can be decorated with self-adhesive film. The cover for aquarium is ready.

Why do you need to make aquarium yourself if you can freely purchase a pet store or on a bird market? Creative people who are the subject of pride of which are things made with their own hands to this question. In addition, cash costs in the independent manufacture of glass containers for fish almost twice the cost of the finished product.

Video with instructions, how to make an aquarium with your own hands:

If something happened to you, and you wanted to fuck aquarium, but whether the means for his acquisition is missing, or with all the holes available on the body, the rushing of a dissatisfied desire to surprise the world with their golden hands, you, of course, will begin to think about As if to create this miracle vessel. I hurry to calm you: everything is not so difficult, as it seems. The only request (this is in your own interests): Do not try to create something ambitious, trust it with professionals (i.e. me). For a beginner wizard for the manufacture of aquariums, the upper limit of volume is 200 liters. Trying to create something incomparably more, you risk staying without pants, because The same 200 liters can spoil another 2-3 apartments other than yours. And now think what a furior is made by liters, say, 500? Do you have money for repair half of the entrance? If any, then there is nothing more to break your head; It is necessary to escape to the nearest store-salon for the sale of aquariums and order (or buy) the Waited bank there. If she falls apart, you still have a chance that you will help with repair.

Well, and those who are inexorably standing on their invincible desire to do everything itself, the following are devoted to:

First, imagine how you need what you need. In the end, the plasticine layout is suitable for a genuine size. :-) I know by experience that the client, ordering an aquarium, does not quite rightly represent that gigantic piece of glass, which, puffing and darling, drags to him in the apartment. As a rule, there is no limit to surprise: "How? This is me?! Yes, I, it seems, did not order such a huge ..."

In short, if you thought well and donated 7 times, it's time to start glass cutting. Immediately I warn you: there are 2 ways to build rectangular aquariums (I hope that you have enough mind not to take immediately for a more complex shape): The first implies a design in which all the walls stand at the bottom. In the second case, the walls are placed around the bottom. For aquariums, over 50 liters, we strongly recommend the second method. In addition, it is much easier. Next, you should decide on the glass thickness that you have already gathered to crush. The length and height of the can play a decisive role here (of course, we are talking about the length of the wall that is more, i.e. facial). The thing is not in litter, which scares, but in the height of the water column and the length of the glass, to which this pillar has the greatest pressure, i.e. The longest of all available. For example, the Baltic Aquarium is very common in its time, the Baltic Aquarium for 200 liters size 1000x400x500 just right from the glass of 8 mm. Something smaller rolled out of 6 mm, if only with a height of 500 mm, the length did not exceed 900 mm, and at a length of 1000 mm height did not exceed 400 mm. Again, if you saw something exceeding these recommendations, do not confuse: this story is for you, i.e. for Dummies". Do not be offended by this nickname: wonderful books on computers from the series "... for teapots" reads the whole world, and no one is offended.

With string glass, the front walls are cut on the overall dimensions of the aquarium, the bottom is reduced in length and width to 2 glass thickness, minus a couple of millimeters for glue. The ends are cut out the same width as the bottom, and the height is equal to the facial. Those. The aquarium with dimensions, for example, 800x400x450 with a glass thickness of 6 mm, the size of the glass is as follows:

Facial (2 glasses) ... 800x450
Bottom (1 glass) ............ 786x386
Ends (2 glasses) ........ 386x450

Next, it is necessary to cut more and so-called ribbon ribbon, which attached to the upper edge of the face glass, do not let them bend outward and, as a result, burst. The ribs should be a little shorter of the bottom (as far as it is not fundamentally, if only they occupied at least 3/4 on the length of the aquarium) and a width of 40-50 mm.

Now a little about cutting glass

Deciding to do it yourself, do not buy cheap glass cutters, - you just spoil the nerves and glass. Nice glass cutter is not less than 150 rubles. At the same time, buy professional glass cutter for 45 $ is also not worth it. It is advisable to choose a gold middle. By the way, the thing is not disposable, may be useful in the farm. Good glass cutter (necessarily roller!) Should be smoothly and gently, without jumps and vibration, not subdining, go through the glass. The glass, by the way, should be clean, dry and not have on the intended lines of the cut of any defects (bubbles, foreign inclusions). And, of course, nothing of this can not be allowed somewhere in the middle of the face wall or bottom! When the glass is marked, take into account the thickness of the glass cutter from the edge to the middle of the roller (usually 2.5-3 mm). No need to put pressure on the instrument handle, it will only be worse. With too much pressing on the glass there remains a very deep section of the cut, along the edges of which bounces "chips". The glass can not break down badly. However, to lead the glass cutter as a pi ... de lard, is also not suitable; In short, before the start of the glass of the glass along and along, you need a little (and someone may, and a lot) to practice. It would be nice before cutting, moisten the head of glass cutter in liquid oil or turbidar. After cutting, it is necessary without delay to get to the flushing. Do not go to the cross, to calm the loose nerves, because The glass has the "cool" property after cutting and can break worse. So, "Kui Iron, without departing from the box office." It is not worthwing to "tap" the cut line, as much recommend many. The end of the glass is irrow, and indeed the glass can crack at all where you need. Just put the glass on the table so that the cut line accounted for along the edge of the table, and one confident push, bother the sliced \u200b\u200bpiece. When cutting off the narrow strips, you can use the following admission: to put the tip of the pencil or any small non-metallic object under the end of the cut, where it ends, and push the edges of the glass next to this place. The crack will crash forward over the cut line.

If you still successfully coped with the task, it's time to proceed to the processing of stalk. Here, the space for creativity is not limited, but there is one subtlety: do not attempt in any case to process (stabbed) mating (glued) surfaces. They do not glue, because Silicone sealant does not stick to porous and grinding surfaces. The chamfer, of course, can be removed in order not to cut off the same. I can suggest that, in addition to the well-known diamond, the glass is also processed by the sanding paper, called in the people of the skin, and abrasive bars, for example, for sharpening shoal knives, etc. Main, do not forget to wet the bar (or diamond) in water. Firstly, the processing will go faster, secondly, the glass will not be heated (and this can not be allowed), and, thirdly, the bar will not be arranged and clogged with abrasive and glass dust.

Cut and processed windows need to be compared with each other and pick up in pairs, so that something damn curve did not come out and absolutely not similar to the desired one. Next, proceed to the choice of sealant. By the way, about them, their birthdays. Many are tormented by the question: what is still glue? Silicone sealant or the same glue? So, my dear, it is the same! Based on the set of identities seen by me, characterizing this substance, I propose the most complete explanation of what it is. So, it is "single-component 100% silicone adhesive sealant of acetate group, based on acetic acid." If you do not understand anything, it is not scary. The main thing is that when choosing a sealant in the total mass of such products, you made sure that it contains 100% silicone. It is also important to check whether it is harmful for living organisms (because there are those that are created specifically to combat the manifestation of life, or rather, to combat bacteria, i.e. antifungal, "sanitary" sealants). I will allow myself to recommend you some grades of sealants to facilitate your painful selection process. The best of all known to me is Dow Corning 788, but it is very expensive, and therefore the following sealants are also suitable: Chemlux 9011, Kleiberit Suprasil 590e, Teosil A Akvariolaatu, Dow Corning 911. All of them are suitable for aquarium gluing and differ by some parameters, Which are important only with mass applications, and, of course, the price. When applying, be guided by the instruction written on the cartridge. In most cases, everything is written there. But do not be afraid of the phrases: "... Avoid hitting the skin! .." (in English version it can sound approximately like "... May Cause Irritate Skin ..."). I have not met a person who would suffer from it.

The surface on which the aquarium is to be collected must be smooth, for example, the table. All bondable surfaces need to be deguted with acetone or gasoline (the White Spirit is suitable) and wipe dry, because acetone, though it removes fat, etc., but may leave after herself a muddy trace of the unfortunate (solid) particles - so to speak, the precipitate, and gasoline and white spirit are not enough volatile and leave after themselves a small fat film that, however is easily removed by a simple rag, while the real fat just does not delete. Stay under the bottom of some unnecessary newspaper or just paper so that the aquarium does not stick to the surface, and you did not have to drink a piece of the table, and ...

Wait, and you have a gun for sealant? Ah, there is! .. For those whom the phrase as a "gun for sealant" turns into a despondency, I give a picture:

Take it into the right hand (you are not left-handed?), And start to wear the facial wall. It is better to do this or on the lineup, putting something under it so that the glue does not touch the line, or you can train the spout of the gun along the edge of the glass, resting in this very edge. In short, do it as it is more convenient for you, if only it happened evenly. The width of the glue "sausages", which climbs from the nose of the cartridge should be about the same thickness as the glass. At the same time, try to apply glue at exactly, in order to save yourself and those surrounding from the realization of your crucial. The glue is applied along the vertical faces and along the bottom (and, at the bottom, it is possible to make seam slightly thicker, and it is also allowed to natuft with beauty). Next, we put the seam along the bottom face of one of the end glass (you can also not very beautifully).

We take with two hands the smeared facial wall and put it to the back of the bottom; Climb over the entire length and follow the walls along the edges of the bottom from the bottom at the same distance. Then, holding this very wall with one hand, put the cooked end to the bottom, a little deflecting the back wall, in order not to smear the vertical seam on it. Only now, when you pressed the end to the bottom, you can aim and get the end of the "end" in the vertical seam on the back wall. After that, put the second end. Well, after all this, glue the last front wall for you, you have just climbed the non-real experience, will not be difficult. After all this nightmare, press out some of all adhesive connections so that glue is almost not left between the mating stews. Well, honestly, not quite so, but do not leave thick seams. The thickness of them should be in the range of 0.5 - 1.5 mm. But you do not need to pull the aquarium by jack, clamps or something else in this way.

Now a few words about why I treated the bottom seams so dismissively. First, the lower edge of the aquarium is desirable to decorate something (so much moresthetically). Secondly, in order to avoid water leakage, the lower seams should be smeared around the perimeter with a spatula or, at worst, finger. By this, you will protect yourself and those surrounding possible troubles that arise due to penetration of air bubbles and the like. It turns out something like this picture:

It remains to glue ribbon ribs. This can be done when the aquarium is driving. Then it can be put on the side and inside, i.e. To the inner sides of the front walls perpendicularly (not plastics!) Printed these the most ribs. It will look like this:

Now a few words about how the glue dries. In principle, the overwhelming majority of sealants allow you to carry out further work with the aquarium the day after the gluing. You can glue the rib, crop over the glue of the glue, who protruded out (I hope, everything is perfect inside you, it is not necessary to cut anything), but it is still impossible to pour water yet !!! This can be done (with a small reinsurance) days after 5-7.

Well, as the Forrest Gump spoke, "That's all I can say about the War in Vietnam." I seem to say a little more, and not about Vietnam. If you have after a thorough study of my instructions at least something happens, I will be happy. Write me about how many aquariums on the day you managed to glue, I will put you a passing score in the company "Assembers of ZOO" - this is exactly what is written in my work or, as the Yankees say - in my all-service list.

But at all, do not get a hemorrhoids and order the aquariums in stores-stores, support the domestic manufacturer (ie me)!

All information is taken from www.aquaserg.ru. Here you can find a complete list of all instructions for the manufacture of aquariums, lamps and stands on your own.

Video

Aquarium do it yourself. How to make aquarium?

Methods for gluing aquarium glasses. How to make an aquarium with your own hands

How to glue the aquarium with your own hands. The most qualitative way.

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Aquarium do it yourself. 200 liters. Part 1

Aquariumism every year is becoming increasingly popular hobbies in different countries of the world. Fish is very beautiful, watching them wonderfully soothes the psyche and configures on a positive, creative way. The only problem is that the value of the aquarium may be very large. And it is not only about some branded models!

Many lovers have the question of how to make in principle, there is nothing extraordinary in it. And you can make sure that you read our article.

What to do "amateur"?

There are several reasons at once, in addition to dissatisfaction with the price of factory instances. Let's list them:

First, an experienced amateur of aquarium may not be satisfied with the quality, shape and other characteristics of what is now sold in stores.
Secondly, you just may want to do something useful with your own hands.
Thirdly, you wish to "fill your hand" and subsequently sell on independently made aquariums.

In general, with reasons figured out. So how do you make your own aquarium? It is necessary to start with the selection of a suitable material.

Materials and other

It is believed that the best grade glass is M1 or M8. The best choice will be a variety of M1, but also worth such a material is somewhat more expensive. Experts say that when choosing a variety, the glass should be chosen not worse than m3, as it is too dangerous to risk in this case: the flooded neighbors are unlikely to be glad to hobby.

Before making your own hands aquarium for the first time, it is not necessary to especially experiment. You perfectly suit an ordinary showcase glass. When buying, be sure to make sure that there are no cracks, chips, bubbles and other defects on the material.

Do not forget that before the purchase does not prevent in advance to decide on the material thickness. Let us give a table for example that you can "fuck" these parameters. At the junction of the values \u200b\u200byou will see the required glass thickness.

Height, centimeters	The length of the aquarium, centimeters
Height, centimeters

Calculate the required volume

In general, before making your own hands aquarium, it is desirable to at least approximately imagine its volume. To calculate it, the simplest mathematical formula will be required:

l - the desired length of the vessel.

a - his estimated width.

h - respectively, its required height.

Just moving all these parameters, you will get the volume of the aquarium that you need. As you can see, nothing more complicated for determining these values \u200b\u200byou will not need.

Stiffening rib

What is it and what are they needed for? Stiffness ribs are such stripes of the same glass that will protect your vessel from bending outward. The thickness and length of them should be the same as the glass aquarium. The width of the rigidity can be within five centimeters. If your aquarium is longer than half a meter, then we strongly recommend it to collapse with the presence of a special constructive element, which should be mounted at a right angle to facial and side windows.

In addition to increasing the strength of the vessel, the ribs make it possible to put heavy covering glasses on top, and also to transfer an aquarium with them. If the length of the design is equal to one and a half meters (or more), it is extremely preferably installed also tie. In principle, these are the same strips of glass, but it should be glued to the gear of the rigidity themselves.

Cry or not to cut?

With the basic parameters everything is clear. But how to cut the material and is it worth doing it yourself? If you were born with a glass cutter in your hands - no questions, dare. But if there is at least a drop of indecision, it is better not even bother. First, it is really difficult and vigorously. Secondly, the cost of cutting is most often included in the price of the material. Even better when you found a decent workshop, where the glass does not handle glass cutter, but a special machine with which you can make perfectly smooth cuts.

The latter not only directly affects the appearance of the aquarium, but also on the quality of its gluing, which is much more important. If you are satisfied with a small vessel, then you will certainly be able to negotiate with the master so that the details for him are made of trimming: the cost of this option will surely surprise you! It is very important that in the workshop, the edges should be treated in the workshop, as it will be very insulting without finger as a result of fish care. In principle, they can be treated at home, that's just such an operation is still fraught with injuries.

Before making the aquarium is really with your own hands, including the glass cutting, as you follow, and not the results you will surely disappoint you.

Adhesive question

By the way, what glue to connect all this "good"? The answer is unequivocal - silicone sealant and only he. That's just before making aquarium, we strongly recommend to make sure of two important things:

This is really 100% silicone.
It is in fact suitable for gluing aquariums. The information on the package is desirable to read two times. Important! Today in the markets it is often possible to see antifungal sealants, which, as it were, suitable for aquarium. That's just in fact, those fungicides, which are contained in such a glue, extremely negatively affect the state of the flora and the fauna of your aquarium! Among the professionals, the Standard Dow Corning 911 is considered. With this sealant you will probably have no problems.

Before making aquarium at home, it is also necessary to choose the appropriate color of the sealant. Today there are the compositions of all colors of the rainbow: what to choose?

It should be known that black sealants look better in aquariums, the volume of which is more than a hundred liter. Colorless sealants are universal. If you want to make a sea aquarium with your own hands, it is preferable to choose this particular option. Practice shows that it often takes a reaction with dyes, and this often fills up.

It should be noted that with colorless sealants not so well noticeable the errors of gluing and cutting glass. White and colored adhesives have to be linked to the design of the room. In addition, the "colorful" small aquarium in most cases will ridiculously look.

Before making aquarium at home, it is better to purchase a colorless glue. Note that it is better to buy it in a tube, to which you can join it will work much easier.

Decoration

We will make a small lyrical retreat. Many are interested in how to make decorations in the aquarium with their own hands at home. Two words here are difficult to answer. However, we will try.

Decorations are two types: items to the first include squigs. To prepare them, a complex and multistage welding is required. In addition, if it was conducted by a non-professional, no one would give guarantees that Koryaga will soon not be rotten. Therefore, such decorations are better to buy in specialized stores.

So still how to make a decor in the aquarium with your own hands? It is easiest to dial beautiful stones (not limestone) and make a bizarre composition of them. In addition, a beautiful backbone frames are often made on the rear wall of the aquarium: the "box" of the corresponding size is made of glass or wood, in which the compositions from branches, dry plants and other things are laid out. We also note that the ass can be tricually paint.

What is useful for work?

This is what a short list of tools and consumables, we would like to offer you:

Soft grinding stone.
Syringe of milliliters for twenty.
It does not hurt a good stock of napkins.
A sharp stationery knife for cutting the remnants of sealant.
Bottle of degreaser.

We begin to glue

Before making an aquarium with your own hands, you need to clearly imagine two main gluing methods:

The walls can be glued directly on the bottom.
They can be attached to the bottom.

In numerous sources, it is described that the second method is more reliable. But practice shows that the first option is no worse, the strength characteristics of such aquariums are quite good. Many fans of aquariums say it is much more convenient in execution. It is on his example that we will tell you about how to make an aquarium with your own hands. Remember that one important circumstance should be taken into account: the side walls are made shorter than the width of the aquarium bottom (exactly two thickness of the glass). Do not forget to add a millimeter to the reserve.

In general, you all needed stuck, everything you need learned. It's time to start a gluing. So how to make an aquarium with your own hands at home?

First stage

Immediately process the edges of the glasses, if not done before. It is best to do this as follows: you dial about ten-fifteen centimeters of water into the bath, put a thick terry towel to the bottom, and it's gently put the glass on it. Weling soft water, quietly spend them on the edges of the glasses. Cut surfaces themselves do not process in any way! The fact is that Silicone is well held on the smooth, and not on the rough surface.

If you want to make an aquarium with your own hands (big), find out in advance whether it is possible to work in the bathroom, whether it is litlable: one awkward movement - and you do not have glass. After the end of work, we wipe the glass with a dry cloth. Their ends need to be deguted, using alcohol or acetone (only in a well-ventilated room).

Second phase

We put the bottom of the future aquarium in the room where you will work. Do not forget that it is desirable to put a clean and thick rag under the glass. In principle, paper is not bad. Gently cut off the nose with a tube with glue, pre-locating it into the mounting gun. We take the front wall of the future aquarium, we apply to her end silicone sealant.

If you glue the glass for a small aquarium, then it will be more convenient to use a mounting gun, but a syringe, about which we mentioned above. First, the glue strip will be better to go to bed. Secondly, the excessive sealant will certainly appear much less. Applying a substance, make sure that its layer is as uniform as possible.

If you saw the resulting cavity, immediately fill it with it. Applied a layer of sealant? Then we take the wall and set it on the bottom of the aquarium. It should not be expanded greatly: otherwise too many adhesive excessors are formed. Silicone is characterized by the fact that its layer is stronger than it is more.

Try to do so that surplus silicone did not get out of both sides. If something is still "crawled", it is better not to take anything yet. Let the seams like that will dry, so that it was easier to cut up too much. The glued front wall is propheted and leave.

Third stage

The side wall is beginning to be attached to the same way. The aquarium ends neatly wist with a sealant, gently glue. It is very important at this moment to prevent the formation of beeps and the like defects. Constantly monitor the condition of the silicone layer in the connection places.

Fourth stage

As can be understood, all the remaining edges glue the same way. Walls to each other need to press carefully, without fanatism: otherwise, you risks just squeeze a bunch of silicone, which almost certainly leads to the formation of leaks. In the finished form, the aquarium needs to leave the minimum on one day. In no case cannot be moved or moved.

Fifth stage

We have already mentioned that I recall again. So how to make an aquarium with your own hands (400 liters or more volumetric vessels especially) is quite difficult from the first time, do not forget to progress and paste the ribs.

Fasten them should be started after the end of the rings of the aquarium. First you need to turn the finished product of the side. The edge of the rigidity thoroughly misses silicone sealant throughout its area. Most importantly handle the longest side. We glue the details and again we are waiting for at least a day until the design reaches the necessary strength.

If you do a really big aquarium, it's better not to hurry anywhere and wait at least two or three days. So much more reliable. In general, in this case, it is best to take the instructions for your sealant and thoroughly shit it. As a rule, there is a lot of interesting things written. Often in the market you can buy such a sealant, the official term of complete drying of which is at least four to five days. By the way, there is one little secret here: if the humidity is at least in the room, the silicone dries much faster.

Final Actions

So, the glue is finally dry. Now it's time for us to proceed to the elimination of his surplus. For this purpose, a sharp blade is taken or in principle, inside the aquarium can not cut. Water, soil and vegetation will perfectly hide all your flaws.

Finally, we recommend that you need to check the tightness of your creation. Transfer (if possible) an aquarium in such a room, which in the case of which is not sorry to fill. Gently fill it with water and leave for a couple of days. If all the length of this period from the seams did not make a droplet of water, can be deservedly congratulated.

Information on how to make a glass aquarium with your own hands will be useful to many. Although there is a fairly wide range in specialized stores, not every fisher lover can find the desired model, and someone does not suit the cost, which is high enough. In addition, the manufacture of such structures is a good business on which you can earn good. And the tank of a small volume, and the aquarium by 500 liters do its own hands much cheaper than to buy.

How to choose glass

Properly selected material from which the design will be collected is half of the success. Glass must be responsible for both aesthetic requirements and functional: provide a good overview and to withstand water pressure. The wrong choice will lead to an unsatisfactory end result. Before buying a glass for aquarium, you need to learn some rules:

It should be silicate, not organic. The latter is synthetic, and can allocate chemicals that will negatively affect the representatives of the fauna and flora in the aquarium. In addition, his appearance leaves much to be desired, so the plexiglass does not fit.
Silicate glass allocate two types that are characterized by quality processing. The window, well known to everyone, for the manufacture of aquarium is also completely unsuitable, as it is fragile, has irregularities and distort the image. The design of such a material will inevitably cause disappointment. It is better not to spend time, strength and money, but immediately purchase a showcase glass - it is carefully polished, and its surface is smooth and brilliant. Exactly what is needed! It is somewhat more expensive, but these funds will not be thrown into the wind.
It is also very important to pay attention to the variety. The glass has eight them, ranging from M1 (top quality) and ending with M8. No need to buy - for the manufacture of the Wizard Aquarium, it is recommended to choose M1. If you do not seem to be able to purchase the glass of the best quality for any reason, then M2 is suitable. And m3 use only in extreme cases. Lower varieties are forbidden, because in this case, the glass will not be able to cope with its appointment, simply speaking, burst.

When purchasing glass, it is necessary to carefully examine its surface, which should be without any defects. Even the smallest crack or scratch can lead to deplorable results.

It is also necessary to carry out accurate calculation of glass for aquarium. If with such parameters, as height, length and width, everything is clear - they choose the manufacturer, then with the wall thickness it will be a bit more complicated. To calculate it, it is necessary to determine the volume of the future tank by the formula from the school courses of physics: V \u003d L * A * H, Alternating all the indicators, and then resort to the help of the table:

* - with ribs of rigidity; ** - with ribs and tie

The ribs of rigidity and their screed are additional elements in the form of strips of glass, helping the designs to restrain the pressure of the water volume in aquariums, the length of which exceeds 50 cm, preventing the formation of the walls of the walls. Although they are sometimes used in the manufacture of smaller tanks. The ribs are glued to the walls at an angle of 90 °, which will be described in more detail below. The use of such elements allows not only to increase the strength of the vessel, but also put the glass cover on top of it.

Cut the glasses on the necessary parts can be yourself if there is a good experience. And if it is not, it is better to use the services of professional and special workshops.

After the ideal wall material is selected, you need to go to the next item: what to glue the aquarium from glass? This question is no less important.

How to choose glue?

Building stores offer a wide range of various products. But choosing how glass can be glued with glass, you need to take into account the specifics of use for aquariums. First, the tool must provide complete waterproof by obvious reasons, because if the aquarium flows means it is not suitable for use.

Secondly, before you determine how the sealant is glued aquarium, you need to think about the design of the future design, because they are black and transparent. If this is the first attempt to assemble the tank with your own hands, then, of course, you should use a colorless means - possible errors will be visible. And the black waterproof glue for aquariums looks better on large tanks, and its application requires some experience, certain skills and maximum accuracy.

Now directly about the choice. Many newcomers of the aquaries ask the question: "Is it possible to glue on silicone sealant?" Need to. This is the only suitable remedy for the future tank, so the answer is obvious. Silicone glue for glass has all the necessary and properties, first of all, excellent isolation. Do not experiment and choose other means, for example, epoxy adhesive for aquarium is not the best option, because its appointment is completely different.

By purchasing glue, you should carefully read his instructions - is it suitable for aquariums? Some funds are in their composition antifungal agents, which are destructive for the inhabitants and plants of the home reservoir.

What sealant for aquarium is better? We will help you decide on the purchase. Here are the most used in the circle of specialists:

Dow Corning 911 - undoubted leader;
Tytan - has excellent properties, but has an unpleasant smell that will disappear for several days;
SOUDAL SILIRUB AQ - proven itself well;
Chemlux 9013 - German production.

A suitable aquarium silicone will ensure the reliability of the design and the comfortable life of the water inhabitants. It should be remembered that all work needs to be carried out in gloves, not

The process of gluing aquarium

When the required material is purchased, you can start up to the assembly itself. To do this, you will need some tools:

grinding stone (better choose soft);
20 cubic syringe (if the glass thickness is less than 4 mm, the sealant will be applied with it);
a sharp blade (a stationery knife can be approached;
paper napkins to remove excess glue;
degreaser.

How to glue aquarium at home? There are two ways to gluing aquarium, which differ in the location of the walls in relation to the bottom:

they glue directly to the bottom;
around him.

According to its reliability and complexity of assembling, both such designs are approximately the same, and their technology is not very different from each other. They allow you to make as a small tank for several inhabitants, and make a large aquarium with your own hands. For example, for the first method, you need to follow the following action plan:

For safety, it is necessary to sharpen the edges of the glasses in order to avoid possible cuts. To do this, a dense soft fabric is placed on the bottom of the bath, preferably a terry towel (to avoid damage), type water and put in it glass. Then with a moistened with accurate stone gently process edges. It does not need to touch the cut - this can lead to the fact that the sealant for the bonding aquariums will not be able to firmly connect the surfaces.
After this procedure, all edges must be carefully dried and wipe the disinfecting agent.
Next, the most responsible stage begins. The walls are cut and processed, the tool than glue the glass is chosen, it remains only to bore the components of the structure. For this, the bottom is put on the newspaper (it should be noted that in this place the reservoir will dry during the day). First, you need to take the front wall of the aquarium and apply the sealant to its end (if the glass is thin, the syringe is used), and then it is used to gently put it on the bottom of the aquarium, only slightly giving it.

Excess glue while it is not necessary to delete. The lateral wall is attached in the same way, only at the same time the vertical edge is still smeared. The remaining edges are also glued.

The resulting design should dry about a day if the reverse is not specified in the instructions for sealant. Next, if necessary, install the ribs of stiffness. The aquarium is placed on the side wall, and the sliced \u200b\u200bplates are thoroughly wetted from three sides and glue to the aquarium. After that, dried another 24 hours.
When the glue is completely dry, you can remove with the help of the blade or the stationery knife of its remnants. For this make light movements along the surface of the glass.

Now the time has come to check the aquarium for strength, typing water into it. If it was formed to flow, you can try to eliminate it without rejorating the walls. For this, a bit of sealant is pressed with a finger into the place of leakage or remove the section of the flowing seam. If the problem did not solve this, then the wall is separated by the knife and the gluing procedure begins again.

Here are a brief information about how to make aquarium yourself that will help save a lot of money. The main thing is to choose the maintenance of materials and comply with gluing technology. If everything is completed with a decent way, you can get a wonderful result.