Do-it-yourself sewer construction in a private house. How to carry out a sewage system in a private house: recommendations of experts. Equipment and materials for installation work

The water supply of a residential building is unthinkable without a drainage system. Therefore, even before construction, you need to decide where and how to lay sewer pipes in a private house, how to arrange an external pipeline.

We will tell you how to lay sewer pipes within the building and on the site. We will show you how to assemble the system and fix its components. In our proposed article, installation rules and building codes are given, and the technology for performing internal wiring is described.

Without preliminary drawing up of waste disposal, construction is out of the question. A carefully thought out, drawn up scheme will allow rational use of capital investments.

In addition, thanks to the preliminary drawing up of a structure's sewerage scheme, more opportunities open up to achieve the required system efficiency.

Example of a wiring diagram: mk - sink; ks - riser; un - toilet bowl (bidet); mind is the sink of the washbasin; vn - bath, 50 and 110 - diameters of pipelines of horizontal lines and riser lines; 1 - siphon with cleaning; 2 - bath siphon with overflow; 3 - square; 4 - tee; 5 - crosspiece; 6 - adapter

The main criteria for drawing up a scheme, as a rule, are considered the following:

• the number of people on the territory of the residential facility;
• the proposed technology for the processing (treatment) of sewage;
• layout of lines for external drainage;
• distribution of lines of internal collection and drainage of waste water.

Having decided on the main points of construction, they calculate the number of system components, including the footage of sewer pipes, and draw up a sketch of the project.

An example of drawing up a sketch of a home sewage system for two adjacent nodes: 1 - sink; 2 - toilet bowl; 3 - washbasin; 4 - bath; 5 - plumbing pipeline. The sketch also marks the distances between the components (a, b, c, d)

Piping for a one-story house

Given the availability of a lightweight and complete set of mounting fittings on the market, it is quite affordable to build a sewage system in a private house on your own. However, it is not easy to build a high-quality sewage system without the advice of specialists and referring to the established standards.

Sewer network diagram with a septic tank outlet: 1 - riser; general disposal of waste products; 3 - compensating air outlet; 4 - septic tank; 5 - treated effluents; 6 - additional final filtration

The classic sewer scheme in general contains:

• sewer riser;
• pipes connecting the internal components of the system;
• an external pipeline that diverts general drains;
• receiver system.

According to the existing wiring standards for a one-story structure, the zones closest to the external point of effluent discharge are plumbing fixtures of the kitchen and sanitary unit.

The wall separating these two rooms of the house is considered the installation site of the riser pipe. The area of ​​the lower point of the riser pipe is diverted to the external line, and the upper one is brought out to the roof.

Part of the general wiring in a private house is an example of the practical implementation of building an internal horizontal network based on popular polypropylene pipes and other components

The most distant plumbing fixture of the economic zone is connected to the riser with a pipeline smaller in diameter and taking into account the slope towards the riser by 1.5-2º. The formation rules are given in the article we recommend.

The laid line is used to connect other plumbing fixtures of the economic and technical area. The closest device to the riser is traditionally a toilet.

Thus, a gravity flow diagram of a one-story private building is created. However, not in every case of a plumbing network device there is the possibility of organizing a gravity circuit. Then the problem is solved by introducing additional equipment - a pump - into the circuit.

Pipeline in a 2-3-storey building

The structure of a private house on two or three floors is characterized by the arrangement of several economic and technical zones. Moreover, the arrangement of such zones is provided on each of the existing floors. Accordingly, in such conditions, it is seen as a somewhat complicated schematic option in comparison with the first one - a one-story house.

Classic wiring for buildings on two or more floors: 1 - centralized collector; 2 - inspection well; 3 - riser; 4, 5 - revisions; 6 - check valve; 7 - forced movement of drains at the basement level

The standards and rules for the construction of multi-storey buildings regulate the construction of premises of the same type in terms of functionality at a single vertical level. Therefore, the sewerage scheme in this case, for example, concerning the toilet rooms, provides for wiring for rooms located one above the other.

A riser pipe, intended for multi-storey buildings, is passed through all floors and brought to the level of the roof, taking into account an additional rise of 0.3 m and higher, if the roof is unexploited.

For the option with an exploited roof, this parameter is at a minimum of 1.5 m. For pitched roofs (a popular design of private houses), the riser is output to a height of 0.5 m from the level of the roof ridge.

Also, the scheme of the device of multi-storey buildings provides for the use of compensating elements at the points of passage of the pipeline through the floors.

Accordingly, the transitions through the ceilings are made waterproof and sound-absorbing, equipped with special fire cuffs.

A practical example of securing polypropylene pipelines, including the risers of the sewer system, by means of special clamps. As you can see, the mount necessarily involves the use of rubber pads.

The riser pipe is fixed directly to the wall using metal clamps with rubber lining. Guidelines for the selection of sewer pipes for the device of internal wiring, we advise you to read the useful information.

The fastening is carried out without a tight tightening - overhead, so that the natural free movement of the pipe along the vertical is ensured. The lower part of the riser is led through the outlet to the external sewer line.

What do you need to know about pipe-laying?

Traditionally, drainage lines from plumbing fixtures such as sinks, bathtubs, household sinks are made on the basis of pipelines with a diameter of 50 mm. The outlets of the toilet bowls require a larger pipe diameter - 110 mm.

At the present stage, polypropylene pipes are traditionally used for the construction of internal sewer lines. However, depending on the specific project and the load (throughput) capacity of the sewer network, different diameters of linear pipelines and risers can be used.

The table below shows the possible options.

The diameter of the riser pipe of the sewerage scheme of a private house in any case is always assumed to be equal or larger relative to the largest floor outlet in diameter

Gravity pipelines of horizontal lines with a diameter of 40-50 mm are mounted, observing the rate of uniform slope equal to 0.03 m per 1 m of length.

Gravity pipelines with a diameter of 85 and 110 mm are laid, observing the rate of a uniform slope equal to 0.02 mm per 1 m of length. The maximum allowable slope angle is not more than 0.15 mm over the entire length of a separately mounted sewer section.

The use of plumbing crosses and tees is a convenient piping technique. In addition, thanks to these elements of the circuit, permeability is created with a lower coefficient of resistance.

Direct connections of the outlet lines and the riser are made by means of tees, crosses at angles of 45º or 60º. Execution of the scheme in this way avoids pipeline clogging during operation.

The scheme and apartments necessarily provide for the introduction of revisions (cleanings) at points on the line where there is a high risk of blockages.

For a circuit in a private house, the location of such circuit elements is shown in the table below:

Sewerage construction procedure

Let's briefly consider the main stages for the construction of a sewer pipeline in a private house. Even if you do not dare to do the work on your own, you can control the hired specialists.

Stage # 1 - installation of a courtyard network

The creation of a sewerage system begins with the construction of an external (courtyard) network. If the length of the courtyard network to the existing one is more than 12 meters, an additional inspection well is arranged. At the same time, the minimum allowable distance from the wall of the house to the inspection well is 3 - 5 m.

He will acquaint you with the methods of arranging the outer part of the pipeline and the rules for laying sewer pipes in the ground, which we highly recommend reading.

In the laying of outdoor sewer lines, they are now mainly used, attracting light weight, excellent performance and an affordable price. When laying the route above the level of seasonal freezing, they are used to protect the lines from the formation of ice plugs.

Often, owners of private buildings have to deal with the lack of a centralized sewage network. In this case, an autonomous system for collecting and filtering wastewater is arranged (). However, the principle of the "external internal network" connection remains the same.

One of the simple and convenient solutions for private households is a sealed septic tank. True, its significant drawback lies in a rather large price, so not every home owner decides to pay for its purchase.

Stage # 2 - construction of an entry point into the house

Next, you need to build an input node directly in the structure of a private house (foundation, basement wall). The construction of the unit is carried out taking into account possible deformations, for example, due to the subsidence of the structure.

The input unit and the external pipeline are reliably insulated.

Input device diagram (one of the possible): 1 - crumpled clay; 2 - cement-based solution; 3 - resinous strand; 4 - sleeve based on steel pipe

Stage # 3 - installation of risers and bends

At the next stage, the installation of riser pipes of the internal network is carried out. It is recommended that these components of the circuit be assembled and assembled beforehand without fastening or with partial fastening.

Full fastening is performed after the final assembly of the entire system. Having completed the installation of riser pipes, they build horizontal sewer branch lines, taking into account the required slopes.

The process of building horizontal internal branch lines provides for the laying of sockets and fittings in the direction against the flow of waste streams

Stage # 4 - plumbing connection

At the final stage, each device is also connected to the corresponding branch through a siphon pipe.

Additionally, it is worth noting: provided the height of the building is less than 10 meters, the internal sewage system can be built on the basis of gravity pipes. At higher heights, pressure pipes are used.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Below is a video of the practice of wiring and laying a pipeline network, taking into account the construction of a private house. Full installation cycle, including testing the system in the simplest ways.

Knowing the procedure for arranging the drainage system from the house, you can try to build a sewer yourself. True, at the stage of laying the pipeline outside, help will be needed to bury the pipes into the ground.

If in doubt, it is better to contact a company with a good reputation and positive recommendations from your friends. Then the sewer system will be arranged correctly and will serve your family for more than a dozen years.

Please leave your comments in the block below. Share useful information, photos and your own experience gained in the field of installation or repair of the sewer pipeline. Ask questions on controversial, interesting and unclear points.

Any private house without a connection to a central water supply and sewerage system does not provide an opportunity to enjoy such benefits of civilization as a bath, shower, kitchen sink, washing machine and much more.

Sewerage in a private house can be equipped in different ways. This will be discussed in this article.

Owners of private houses without sewerage are forced to lay it on their own. If the system was originally incorporated into the project, then there will be no problems.

It is much more difficult to include a circuit in a finished house.

The easiest option is if the sink and shower are in the house, and the toilet is located nearby. In this case, you only need to bring the pipes to the drain pit.

When the toilet is located inside, technology should be followed. Even a slight violation of it can lead to contamination of the site and water. Septic tanks are required in this version.

Utility rooms are to be made nearby (bathroom, toilet, kitchen). It will greatly facilitate the organization of the sewerage system.

How to choose a sewerage scheme

To create a diagram, you will need to answer a few questions.

1. Permanent or temporary residence?
2. At what level is the groundwater?
3. The number of people living in the house?
4. The amount of water consumed?
5. Climate?
6. Land area?
7. Features of the soil?
8. SNiP (building codes and regulations)?

Sewers are divided into two types:

• accumulative;
• cleansing.

A cesspool is rarely used in construction. It is used for houses with temporary residence, where there is no high water consumption.

Groundwater should run no higher than a meter from the bottom of the pit. Otherwise, pollution is assured.

The accumulation system is used in private houses with a high level of groundwater. Due to the tightness of the structure, there is no risk of contamination of the site and water.

Disadvantages of this system. Calling the sewers and you will have to allocate a place for the equipment to enter the site.

Types of sewerage in a private house. Features of septic tanks

Single chamber septic tanks functional are similar to a cesspool.

This option is well suited where the groundwater does not run high.

If the house is permanently resident and a lot of water is used, it is not recommended to install a single-chamber septic tank.

In order for the two-chamber septic tank to function efficiently, the natural filter (crushed stone and sand) should be changed every 5 years.

In houses with permanent residence, septic tanks with biological filters are considered the best sewerage system. They use microorganisms that contribute to the processing of waste. Usually, these organisms are simply poured into the toilet.

The type of this sewage system requires connection to the electrical network.

Biological and soil cleaning is carried out septic tanks with filtration field... Such a sewage system can only be installed if the groundwater is deeper than three meters.

Installation will take up a lot of space. The nearest water source is at least 30 meters away.

Systems with forced air supply (aerotanks) offer significant advantages and fully justify the costs.

After installation, it is necessary to be connected to the mains and constantly monitored by a person.

How to properly make a sewer with your own hands

Construction must take place according to an approved project. The project must have a scheme of internal and external sewerage wiring.

The internal sewerage system consists of risers, a highway and a plumbing connection area (bath, sink, toilet, shower).

This system ends at the foundation level in the form of an outlet.

Arrangement of an external sewage system with your own hands, implies a diagram of a site with an external pipeline, storage or purification equipment.

After the approval of the project, you should proceed to the acquisition of the necessary equipment and select a sewer collector.

When building, rely on SNiP - this will help to avoid mistakes and properly carry out the sewerage system in a private house.

Seat selection

An important issue in the construction of a sewage system is the choice of a place for a septic tank. Its location depends on:

The soil with a large amount of sand is loose, moisture easily permeable, the probability of groundwater contamination is high.

When installing septic tanks, it is necessary to comply with the norms.

1. Distance from home from 5 meters
2. Distance from the water source from 30 meters
3. Distance from green spaces from 3 meters.

It is necessary to leave the entrance for the sewage equipment.

Internal sewerage

On the internal sewerage scheme, it is necessary to select all points of the system.

If 90-degree turns are unavoidable, build it from two 45-degree angles.

Preparing for installation

Installation of external sewerage

The sump should be cleaned every 2-3 years.

How to lay pipes correctly

A line is laid from the sewer pipe that comes out of the foundation to the septic tank. The installation of the pipeline is done at a mandatory slope, which will ensure the gravity of the liquid. The angle standard is 2 degrees.

The wider the pipe is in diameter, the smaller the angle of inclination.

The depth of the sewer installation in a private house is determined by the index of soil freezing. On average, it is 1 meter. In colder regions, the depth should be increased to 1.5m. Before installation, the bottom of the trench is filled with sand and compacted well. This will help protect the line from destruction when the soil is displaced.

The ideal option is a direct pipeline from the house to the collector. For external sewage, pipes made of cast iron or plastic with a diameter of 110 mm are suitable.

The joints must be sealed. The trench with the pipeline is covered with sand, and then with soil.

Sewerage without pumping

This system usually consists of three sections. Two of which are completely sealed (first and second sections). In the first section, heavy waste is deposited. In the second, light particles settle. In the third, the water is completely purified and enters the drainage well.

Such a system needs to be pumped out, but much less frequently than a conventional septic tank. Cleaning is carried out with a special pump for sewage.

When the sludge reaches the overflow point, cleaning is required.

In order to optimally choose the volume of a septic tank without pumping out, the formula is applied:

200l multiplied by the number of people, add 20% to the result.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

When arranging a country house, many communications are often installed by hand. There is nothing surprising in this: the process itself is quite simple, and the work does not require special skills. Of course, there are certain rules that must be followed: for example, it is worth carefully designing the structure and making sure that one communication line does not interfere with the other. How to install a sewage system in a private house will be discussed in this article.

If we talk about sewage, then the first thing you need to know is that this system consists of internal and external parts, and the arrangement of each of them is carried out in its own way. The external sewerage system is installed somewhat easier, since the work is carried out in an open space. From the inside, everything is a little more complicated, so the installation of a sewage system in a private house with your own hands begins with it.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

The first stage in the arrangement of the structure is planning. You need to know exactly how much plumbing will be installed and where it will be installed. When performing work, be sure to have a pre-drawn up project on hand. You can immediately deduce one rule: when installing a riser, it must be placed as close as possible to the wall under which the sewer outlet is equipped. Naturally, this wall should be located on the side where the sewer well is located, which, in turn, is arranged as low as possible so that it would be easier for the drains to move there on their own (read also: "").

The riser is usually made of 110 mm plastic pipe. All branch pipes are connected to the riser, through which drains are collected from plumbing devices. To connect the toilet to the system, straight sections made of 100 mm pipes are used, while other devices can be connected through various fittings using pipes with a diameter of 32 to 80 mm.

Do-it-yourself sewer installation in a private house is usually performed parallel to the water supply line. Such installation is especially convenient when communications will be installed in the walls. For this, it is necessary to prepare grooves intended for laying pipes. There is one caveat here: the water supply system works under some pressure, so the slope of the pipes is not a necessary condition.

The sewer system requires a slope, otherwise it simply will not work: the structure functions on a gravity basis, therefore, the slope must be observed in all its sections, regardless of the length of the pipelines or the location of the devices. According to regulatory documents, the average slope should be within 2-3 cm per 1 meter of the pipeline. When creating a slope, you need to carefully monitor the observance of this value, otherwise the system will very soon begin to create problems.

To connect plastic pipes, it is necessary to use fittings of the same material: such a connection will provide the structure with sufficient strength and tightness. With a hidden sewerage installation, it is necessary not only to lay the pipes in the prepared grooves, but also to fix them with clamps for reliability. The strobes themselves are subsequently masked with a special solution.

Do-it-yourself outdoor sewerage installation

The elements of the external sewerage system include all parts that are equipped outside the building.

Installing a sewage system in a private house requires attention, especially in such moments:

1. The design should have a minimum of bends and turns, so the entire line should be made as straight as possible.
2. If plastic pipes were used in the house, then the external sewage system should also be made of this material.

The installation of an external sewage system also has some features that you will have to face:

1. Large volume of earthworks... It is necessary to lay the external sewage system, taking into account the level of soil freezing: the pipes must be below this level so that negative temperatures do not provoke stagnation or rupture of the system.
2. Creation of a sewer well... Before creating a sewage system in a private house, you will need to accurately calculate the number of drains, which is primarily affected by the number of residents. The large estimated volume of waste indicates the need to create a large reservoir, so the depth of its arrangement should be large enough.
3. System type selection... The quality of collection and disposal of wastewater, as well as the ease of use of the sewer system will be directly influenced by its type. Each design has its own nuances: for example, an ordinary cesspool has an extremely low efficiency, but is very cheap, but a powerful biological treatment plant will be expensive, but its performance will be at the highest level. Read also: "".

In any case, the external sewage system makes special requirements for its arrangement, and they must be taken into account in order for the structure to be as efficient as possible.

Excavation works

Excavation work is one of the first stages of the sewerage arrangement. These works can be performed both independently and with the involvement of additional forces (teams of workers or special equipment). Naturally, before work, it is necessary to mark the area along which the trench will pass.

In addition, it is important to pay attention to the slope of the trench bottom: when using equipment, the required value will not be achieved, so everything will have to be leveled independently. In any case, after preparing the trench, its bottom must be covered with a small layer of sand.

Arrangement of a sewer well

This design can be made from different materials:

• brickwork;
• metal tank;
• reinforced concrete rings;
• plastic septic tank.

Each system has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

It is worth saying a few words about each of them:

1. Devices made of bricks or blocks are pretty good elements of the sewer system, but their arrangement takes a long time. With a little experience in performing construction work, it can take several days to create a brick well.
2. The metal structure compares favorably with the brick for ease of installation and lower cost, but the service life of the device in this case will be much less: the metal is easily corroded, and very soon the device will become faulty.
3. Reinforced concrete wells are quite common structures, since strength, reliability and durability can be distinguished among their advantages. The disadvantage of a well made of reinforced concrete rings is a complex installation: ready-made rings have considerable weight, so it is almost impossible to install them with your own hands.
4. Plastic septic tanks can also be attributed to reliable and high-quality structures: they are durable and much lighter than reinforced concrete counterparts, so they can be installed with the efforts of 2-3 people. True, the cost of the structure is somewhat higher than the cost of previous devices, but the funds spent will pay off in the very near future. In addition, if we take into account the labor costs for the arrangement, for example, of concrete wells, then the price will practically be equal. Read also: "".

How to install sewer pipes

Installation of the pipeline usually starts from home - it is easier to monitor compliance with the slope of the structure. When laying pipes, it is necessary to connect with couplings. When connecting several drain systems into one, it is necessary to use tees or other appropriate fittings.

The last stage of laying the pipeline is connecting the pipeline to the sewer well. For this, couplings are also used that connect all pipes of the external sewage system with each other and with the internal sewage system. When the pipes are mounted and installed in their places, the trench is covered with earth, and this is where the work is completed.

The subtleties of the arrangement of the sewage system

There are some nuances that you have to face when installing a sewage system:

Too deep level of soil freezing... With this phenomenon, the pipes must be laid too deeply, and the volume of work will increase greatly. This phenomenon can be avoided with the help of thermal insulation.

It can be done in two ways:

• using thermal insulation materials that do the job well;
• with the help of electric heating, realized by means of a cable stretched along the entire sewer line.

The need to maintain a slope... It is imperative to observe the slope, and its value must be within the specified limits. The reason for this is as follows: a too weak slope will not allow waste to move through the system, and the system will soon clog up, and if the slope exceeds the standard, the water will move too quickly and will not be able to wash the pipes from the inside, which also leads to blockages.

Choice of design... The selection of a sewer system is an individual question, and there is no universal answer to it. To make the choice of sewerage more understandable, it is worth reading an article about the types of sewerage systems.

Conclusion

Sewerage installation in a private house can be done with your own hands - even inexperienced craftsmen will not have any special problems. And if you stock up on some knowledge and carefully prepare for work, then the structure will turn out to be reliable and will be able to function for a very long time and efficiently.

The end of the second decade of the XXI century assumes in a modern private house, including a summer cottage, a latrine somewhat more technological than a modest wooden booth at the end of the site. It is not surprising, therefore, how advanced the sewerage systems for country houses and materials for them have become today. And all this is quite affordable and feasible for a home craftsman when installing with his own hands.

Any system for drainage and disposal of wastewater in a residential building, no matter how small it may be, needs to build a diagram that will demonstrate the size of the system on a scale and help in choosing:

• type of plumbing and its placement, including additional suppliers of wastewater, such as a bath;
• internal pipe routing;
• the place where the sewer system exits the building;
• passing the sewer main outside the building;
• the type of equipment and its location on the site;
• materials required to create a system.

The diagram also shows pipe diameters, their connection options and other information that is necessary for assembling the internal and external components of the sewer system.

Types of sewerage system

The most popular sewerage systems today are based on the use of:

• cesspools;
• storage tanks;
• two-chamber septic tanks;
• septic tanks with filtration;
• septic tanks with a biofilter;
• septic tanks with forced air supply.

Did you know?As established by archaeologists, the world's earliest drafts of sewage systems, which appeared in Mesopotamia, are almost five thousand years old. However, a sewer system, reminiscent of the modern one, appeared in Ancient Rome in the 6th century BC.

The time-tested method of sewage drainage is simple and cheap. For the construction of a cesspool in the form of a well without a bottom, concrete rings, bricks and similar materials are needed.
Since the bottom of this well consists of bare soil, household liquid waste falls through the well onto it, seeps out and begins to be cleaned. The harder fractions of these wastes are retained in the pit and precipitate. When a lot of them accumulate in the well, cleaning is required.

This system operates reliably and justifies its existence if the volume of wastewater from the house does not exceed a cubic meter per day. This amount allows microorganisms in the soil to cope with the processing of organic elements and thereby purify the water entering the soil through the bottom of the well.

When this volume is exceeded, the water no longer has time to be purified and begins to pollute groundwater. It makes sense to build a cesspool if the dacha is visited by a small number of people only on weekends. In any case, this primitive type of sewage is now less and less popular with suburban homeowners.

A container for receiving waste waste installed near the house can be plastic, brick, concrete, metal, provided that this container is hermetically closed.

This is especially true for land plots where the level of groundwater is high. A hermetically sealed tank will protect both soil and groundwater from contamination. The only inconvenience of this system is its dependence on frequent calls of sewers, which is why the cost of its operation is quite high.

This device consists of two tanks, the first of which is equipped with a sealed bottom, and the second is not equipped, being covered from below with a layer of sand and crushed stone mixture.

Did you know?The all-round genius of Leonardo da Vinci even invented a flush toilet in 1516. But even the French king could not bring the revolutionary idea to life, since then there was no water supply or sewage system at all.

Wastewater flows into the first reservoir, where solid organic matter sinks, fatty particles rise upward, and partially purified water is located in the middle.

Both volumes are connected by a pipe with a slight slope towards the second tank. Along it, the already partially purer water flows into the second reservoir. And there it, passing through the sand-crushed stone mixture, as well as through the soil, is additionally cleaned.
It is clear that in the first compartment, which is a sump, masses of waste gradually accumulate, in order to eliminate which one has to resort to the services of sewers.

But it is recommended to equip the second tank only when there is at least a meter distance from its bottom, filled with a mixture of rubble and sand, to the groundwater. Moreover, this sand-crushed stone mixture needs to be changed every five years.

It consists of a tank divided into several sections, connected to each other by slightly inclined pipes. Typically, such a tank is manufactured at the factory.

The first tank is used for settling liquid waste. From it, partly clarified water flows into another compartment of the container. And there anaerobic bacteria decomposing organic elements make the water even cleaner, after which it flows into the third reservoir.
And from it, through the soil, the water reaches the filtration fields specially created from the sand-crushed stone mixture, where it is purified up to 80% and discharged into special ditches or containers. This method of cleaning liquid waste is advisable only where there is a large area of ​​land.

After all, only from the filtration fields to the house or the source of drinking water, the distance should be at least 30 m. Plus, the filtration sections themselves occupy a lot of area, although they are underground. In addition, in this case, groundwater should rise no higher than 3 m.

This type of treatment device differs in that it can be used on land plots where the water table is high. It is a reservoir, consisting of four sections, connected to each other by pipes with a slight slope.

In the first tank, the drains settle and in the form of partially purified water flow into another compartment. There, the water is further purified by means of anaerobic microorganisms and, in a more clarified form, is sent to the third compartment-separator, and from there to the fourth.
And there it is already being treated with aerobic bacteria. They need a constant supply of fresh air, which comes here through a pipe that is led out to a height of half a meter. Thanks to the treatment with these bacteria, the water reaches a purity of up to 95% and is quite suitable for watering plants, washing a car and other household needs.

This method of cleaning sewage is most in demand in country houses with people permanently living there, since bacteria need a continuous flow of liquid waste, without which they die. And although bacteria can be easily added to the system through the toilet, it will take about two weeks to fully restore their full activity.

This installation, with the help of electricity, significantly activates wastewater treatment. It does this by means of forced injection of atmospheric air, for which an electric pump and an air distributor are used.

This type of purification device can consist of one tank, divided into three compartments, and of three different tanks, connected to each other by means of inclined pipes.

Primarily treated wastewater from the first compartment is poured into the aeration tank, which is the second section. There is aerobic sludge, supplemented by plants and microorganisms. It is they who need the forced supply of fresh air.

After that, the already more purified liquid, together with the sludge, is poured into a third tank, where, after settling, it is subjected to better treatment, and the sludge that has found itself in the sediment is returned to the aeration tank with the help of a pump.
Forced air serves as an effective catalyst for the process, as a result of which the water is purified much faster and more efficiently.

And although the installation consumes a little electricity, it nevertheless needs an electrical network, which is partly its disadvantage. The functioning of this system also requires continuous residence in the house of one of the household members.

How to mount a sewer with your own hands

With a high-quality diagram of the future sewerage system and with the availability of all the necessary materials, you can proceed directly to its stage-by-stage construction.

There are three stages, which involve:

• installation of an internal sewerage system;
• laying pipes outside the house;
• construction of treatment facilities.

Video: sewerage at home

Piping and riser routing

Indoor wiring includes horizontal pipes that connect plumbing to a vertical pipe, which is a riser. And it connects to the main line that leads out sewer drains.

Ideally, it is desirable to combine the installation of a sewer system with the construction of a house, but it is quite realistic to collect the wiring located inside and in an already built house, especially if it is small.

In this case, you should adhere to the following requirements:

1. Since waste water from plumbing devices is discharged by gravity, pipes that go from them to the riser must be laid with a certain slope.
2. Sanitary equipment must be necessarily separated from the pipelines by hydraulic seals in the form of siphons, which are a curved pipe with water constantly in it, which does not allow odors to penetrate from the sewage system into the premises.
3. The pipe connecting the toilet bowl to the riser should not exceed 1 m.
4. The intra-house sewage system requires ventilation, for which the riser is brought out with a slight elevation above the roof.

Important!The toilet must be connected to the horizontal wiring at the lowest part of the floor.

Pipe routing

If the pipes are laid in an already built house, then there are three ways to lay them:

• ditches are made in the walls with the help of chipping, into which pipes are hidden;
• lay them on the floor;
• fastened to the walls with clamps.

The pipeline is assembled, starting from the riser and ending with plumbing. The main thing when routing horizontal pipes is to establish the required angle of inclination.

The larger the pipe, the smaller the angle should be. For example, with a pipe diameter of 50 mm, one end of its meter section should be 30 mm higher than the second, and with a diameter of 200 mm, this elevation is only 7 mm.

Video: routing sewer pipes At first glance, it seems that the greater the slope of the pipeline, the better the drains will flow through it. However, in reality, excessive slope leads to the fact that the water rolls down the pipe too quickly, and the harder parts of the effluent do not keep up with it and are retained in the pipeline.

Installation and assembly of the riser

The installation of the internal sewage system begins with the installation of an in-house collector in the form of a riser. In its lower part, the riser is connected to a pipe passing through the foundation and drains outward, and at the top it is crowned with ventilation towering above the roof.

Important!The best option when there is only one riser for the whole house.

Installation and assembly of the riser is carried out in the following sequence:

1. On the wall, at the place where the future riser passes, it is necessary to depict its axis with a pencil. If desired, a recess is made in the wall, the width and depth slightly exceeding the diameter of the riser pipe. For external fastening of the pipe to the wall, clamps and brackets are used. The fasteners should be installed under the sockets connecting the pipes, the distance between the fasteners should not exceed 4 m.
2. Then it is necessary to pre-assemble the riser and attach it to the wall in order to check whether all dimensions have been correctly observed, taking into account the fittings for connecting the horizontal part of the system. The places of installation of fasteners are also determined, if external installation of the riser on the wall is provided. It should be borne in mind that the pipe cannot be installed close to the wall, the gap between them must be at least 3 cm.
3. Having eliminated all errors in the installation of pipes, the riser is assembled with the help of seals and fastened with clamps, if external fastening is provided.
4. Next, you need to connect the riser to a pipe that leads the drains to the outside, and the upper end of the riser can be connected to a fan pipe that rises above the roof.

Video: tips for installing sewer risers

Waste pipes used for ventilation of sewage systems connect the internal system with the external environment, helping:

• to divert harmful and foul-smelling gases that are formed in the sewer system into the atmosphere;
• maintain the required pressure inside the system.

For all its usefulness, funnel pipes are not at all necessary in all housing construction without exception. In a small one-story country house, where the volume of wastewater is small, it is quite possible to do without this device. But in large houses, two or more floors, with a considerable number of tenants, fan devices are certainly necessary.

They work on the principle of sucking atmospheric air into the sewer system when the air inside it is rarefied. In this they are helped by vacuum valves, which just let in atmospheric air when its pressure in the system drops, but prevent the gases accumulating in the system from escaping to the outside.
Install fan pipes with vacuum valves on the roofs of the building, where they, as a rule, rise 20 cm above the roof. Sometimes this ventilation is installed in the attic of buildings.

The sewer outlet is a system of pipes that is placed under the foundation of the house and serves as a continuation of the riser. It is an intermediate link between the internal sewer and the outside of the sewer system.

The most difficult point in its arrangement is going out under the foundation or through it to connect to the external pipeline.

The outlet equipment requires pipes of the same diameter as that of the riser, as well as bends that transfer the vertical pipeline to a horizontal position, in which it is brought out through the foundation.

The external sewage network starts from the outlet coming out of the foundation and goes to the treatment plant, where it delivers liquid waste from the house.

For the device of a non-building section of the sewage system, you should adhere to the following rules:

• the external pipeline should be located at such a depth that it does not freeze in winter;
• if it is not possible to dig a deep trench, the pipe must be insulated;
• every ten meters on straight sections of the pipeline and on its bends, it is necessary to install inspection wells.

Except for digging a trench to a frost-free depth, laying the pipe does not require much effort:

1. First, the trench is brought to readiness, which consists in the required depth and tilt towards the cleaning device.
2. A 10-centimeter layer of a mixture of sand and clay is poured onto its bottom.
3. A pipe is placed on top of this layer.
4. The gap between it and the walls of the trench is also filled with this mixture.
5. The trench is backfilled with previously excavated soil.
6. The landscape disturbed by these operations is being restored.

Ancient cesspools without a bottom are now used less and less. Instead, storage and cleaning devices are used. The first of them is a large tank, hermetically sealed, as a result of which its contents do not come into contact with the surrounding soil in any way.

Video: choosing a septic tank for a private house

It is most rational to use this component of the suburban sewerage system in areas with a high level of groundwater, as well as in country houses and dachas that are rarely visited by a small number of people.

If the country house is large, equipped with many types of plumbing and is constantly inhabited by a large number of residents, then a septic tank with soil purification of effluents or with forced aeration is necessary.

Device

The accumulative type of sewage system works very simply: liquid wastewater enters the reservoir and accumulates in it, without contacting the surrounding soil in any way. After the tank is completely filled with drains, it is necessary to resort to the services of sewers to remove them.

Both large factory-made plastic tanks and independently made of bricks, concrete, concrete rings or iron barrels welded together are used as storage tanks.
Different types of septic tanks are more complex. They consist of several sections, in the first of which the solid waste elements precipitate, undergoing anaerobic treatment by microorganisms, and partially purified water flows into the next section, where it is purified using various filtration methods.

The choice of this or that type of septic tank is determined by the level of groundwater on the site, the size of the site itself, as well as the house, the number of permanent residents and plumbing devices that they use.

Construction

To build a storage tank, you should:

1. Dig a pit.
2. Install a concrete base in it.
3. Build a brick wall around it, providing a hole for a sewer pipe in its upper part. On top of the concrete cover there should be another hole for the sewer hose, which should be tightly closed at all other times.
4. Instead of bricks, you can use concrete rings or welded metal rings.

Video: construction of a septic tank For the construction of various types of septic tanks, concrete rings, metal containers, eurocubes and other plastic tanks are used.

They are mounted in different ways, but their installation is very similar:

1. First, you need to dig a pit, which in length and width should be about half a meter larger than the container installed in it.
2. Then the bottom of the pit should be leveled and covered with a 2 cm layer of sand.
3. For concrete and plastic containers, concreting of the base is required.
4. After that, you need to install the tank.
5. The installed tank must be connected to pipes, through one of which sewage is supplied, and from the other purified water comes out.
6. Then, if necessary, it is possible to attach elements of additional purification of water with the help of soil.
7. Hatches should also be installed.
8. And, finally, you need to fill the container with previously removed soil.

Alternative options

If someone does not want or is not yet able to install a sewerage system in his country house or in the country, he has the opportunity to do without it, using dry closets. They are autonomous devices that do not need to be tied to the sewage system.

Currently, there are many types of such toilets, but the most popular among them are:

Peat, as it is easy to understand from the name, use special peat with bioactivators for composting waste products. In the liquid, special solutions are used, which accelerate the processing of waste products.

And electric, the most expensive, separate waste into solid and liquid fractions, the first of which are then dried, and the second are disposed of.

With the seeming complexity of this process, installing a sewerage system in a house with your own hands is quite within the power of a home craftsman. With a correctly drawn up scheme of the future system, the availability of materials and a great desire to bring what has been planned into life, success, as practice shows, almost always comes.

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Sewerage laying is an important stage in the construction of a private house. If there is no public sewage system, then in order to equip a fully autonomous drainage system, you need to lay a network that delivers wastewater from sanitary and household appliances to a collection well. Installation of a sewage system for a private house is not a quick matter, however, if you do the work yourself, serious difficulties should not arise. The help of specialists may be required only in the most difficult sections of the pipeline.

The drainage system of a private house consists of an internal and external sewerage system and a collection well. In cottages with more than two floors with their own bathrooms, the sewer network is additionally equipped with a fan pipe.

Water supply and sewerage systems are usually designed and installed at the same time, since the same plumbing and household equipment is connected to them.

The procedure for laying the sewer network:

• Prepare a pipeline project, taking into account all devices connected to it, a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter, and calculate the amount of required building materials.
• Purchase pipes, fittings and fittings.
• Cut pipes into lengths in accordance with the project.
• Carry out internal wiring and lead the sewer pipe to the outside.
• Install the waste pipe.
• Lay the external sewage system.
• Equip the collection well and connect the pipeline to it.

Internal wiring

Indoor sewage is collected in such a way that its lowest point is the place where the pipeline is taken out. In order not to be mistaken with the angle of inclination, you can start assembly from this point.

If there is a project, the order of connection is not important, but you must strictly follow the rules for performing internal wiring:

• Each device and functional section of the pipeline requires a pipe of the appropriate diameter: for a riser and a toilet bowl - 11 cm, for showers, baths, kitchen sinks - 5 cm, for everything else, 3.2 cm is enough, but if several devices are connected to one pipe at the same time , its diameter must be at least 7.5 cm.
• Since the wastewater flows through the pipes by gravity, a pipeline slope of 2-3 cm per running meter is required.
• The pipe connection must be airtight and not impede the free flow of liquid: the pipes are connected along the flow, there must be no roughness or burrs at the junction.
• Right angles should be avoided, as it is in them that blockages are most often formed. It is better to use several knees with smaller angles to complete the turn.
• It is necessary to prevent back suction from the sewer and the penetration of unpleasant odors into the house. To do this, a siphon or S-shaped bent pipe is installed on the branch pipe of each plumbing fixture, which performs the function of a water seal.
• If the house has several floors and each of them has plumbing, you should equip a common riser.
• Toilets are installed closer than other household and plumbing fixtures to the riser.
• Nodes of the pipeline should not be performed in places where walls or ceilings pass.
• Holes for pipes passing through walls and ceilings are cut with a margin, it is advisable to insert special sleeves or sections of wider pipes into them.
• The connection points to the riser and pipeline bends are equipped with a tee with an inspection window, closed with a plug. Through these windows, in the future, the pipes will be cleaned in case of clogging.
• The riser is located as close as possible to the place where the sewer is taken out.