Soil preparation for growing seedlings. Independent preparation of soil for seedlings. We are preparing the soil under landing in open beds and greenhouse

Droplets on the courtyard, April begins - the time of preparation of the soil to sowing and planting vegetable crops into an open ground.

The main condition for obtaining high, high-quality crop depends on the preparation of the soil. All plants require fertile, if possible, light, loose, water and breathable soil, disintegrating in the mature state of small lumps. Floabling, heavy or sandy are not able to provide the required conditions. Such soils need to be refused, which is to make rippers, additional organic matter and other techniques and methods.

Preliminary spring work on the preparation of soil

Determination of soil maturity

The maturity of the soil for the start of spring work is determined by different ways.

the foot should not be sinking in soil caress, leave a light (no more than 1-2 cm) imprint;
some of the Earth from the subcortical layer of the soil (from a depth of 6-10 cm) is compressed and allowed from a height of about 1.3-1.5 m. Flawed com - ground ground, scattered - mature. You can start spring work.
the soil does not form a dense lump during compression, it is immediately crumpled when the palm is disclosed (usually the sandy) - the soil is dry and watering is needed during crops / landing.

Spring closure of moisture

As soon as the upper layer of land matures, harrowing the soil has been harvested. The soil crust is broken by robbles, the surface is aligned, especially under the sowing of small crops. Similarly, the garbage is removed from the garden (the leaves, the remains of the topped lubricants in the fall of cultures, supports used for the garter of tall plants). This technique also serves to destroy the approach of weeds and retains moisture in the soil.

Especially important is the closure of moisture on light soils and sections with deep groundwater. At such sites, the upper layer of soil is quickly drained.

best4Hedging.

Spring Pumpo

It is best to finish rough soil training in the autumn period (Popile, making fertilizers), and in the spring it is limited to preparing for the sowing of the upper arable layer.

At the same time, heavy floating soils are usually drunk again. As a rule, they are carried out immediately before sowing or disembarking seedlings. Pumping is carried out on the height of the root layer (15 cm) with a turnover or without turnover of the formation.

Pumping with a turnover of the formation is carried out if the site is very clogged with rhizable weeds, if the May beetles, beetle larvae and others were noticed in the past summer. Otherwise, the people is more expedient to carry out without turnover of the reservoir, especially on the depleted soils, the turf, sandy. If the site is not clogged, it is possible to restrict ourselves to the deep (10-12 cm) cultivation (manual spraying of the chopper), which also flashes the upper layer well and closes moisture.

Why is unwanted turnover of the layer? Soil is a living organism, in each layer of which lives their inhabitants. In the upper breathable horizon there is a group of aerobic microorganisms, which are processed in the presence of oxygen the organic in humus compounds available to plants. Outside 15 cm layer is the kingdom of anaerobes for which oxygen - poison. The turnover of the layer changes the living conditions of both groups, causing their death. The freed spot occupies the pathogenic microflora, the quality of the soil decreases, and therefore worsen in the future and the conditions of cultivated cultures. More often will be amazed by diseases root plant system.

Siderates serve as good enhancers of soil fertility and its physical condition. You can familiarize yourself in detail with the role of the Siderators and the technology of their use. Siderats are perfectly cleansed with the soils from weeds, loosen the top layer with its root system and enrich it with an organic basis due to the decomposing biomass. Spring works on beds with Siderats: Switching the Siderate or only to mock the above-ground mass and plant seedlings or sung seeds directly into the living sword.

In the country areas, it is advisable to lead a garden of the garden and rows, which allows you to better and spend all the spring work: freeing the garden from weeds, make fertilizers, pour, plant seedlings.

Row Gardening

Row trucks assumes sowing or landing in one row of high, large plants (tall, cucumbers, beans, curly) or one ribbon (carrots, onions, radishes). Between rows and ribbons leave tracks for cultures. It should be noted that individual series are not the most successful use of the countryside: a large amount of soil is occupied by tracks; When processing plants, solutions fall on the next row with a culture that cannot be processed by the drug, inconvenient watering plants, etc.

Row trucks are more often used in the design of borders, on vegetable flowerbeds or areas allocated for medicinal cultures, when growing tall or curly crops.

Garden of Grookok.

With a small area of \u200b\u200bthe garden, it is rational to use the cultures of the beds.

The beds are divided by

classic
deep, trench
elevated
beds - boxes,
crickerels - box.

Greater gardening allows you to introduce a cultural work, which improves the quality of the soil and grown crops, care and processing of plants. The beds can be made temporary, but better constant engaged in a certain wedge of the land of the country's dacha under vegetable and other cultures.

How to make a bed?

Classic Grokes

Classic beds are formed directly on the soil. They do not have standard sizes. Usually, each gardener places the area (width and length) so that it is convenient to treat plants and care for them from the tracks without disturbing the surface of the bed.

The beds are placed in such a way that each has a free passage from both sides. With such a device, the optimal bed width is 1.5-1.6 m. That is, on each side, the area of \u200b\u200bthe garden can be treated for the length of the elongated hand (70-80 cm), without stepping on the Groke itself. Length - arbitrary and depends on the size of the site allotted under the garden. Between the beds, there are 50-100 cm width tracks, which will allow freely use of garden equipment, leading and processing plants. By the way, weeds and other waste drop on the track during the warm season, and the tracks are cleansed in the fall, throwing the organic mass on the bed and dripped as an additional organic material. Permanent beds and comfortable tracks will make a vegetable garden and attractive, make it easy to fight weeds.

On the gardening plants are planted in the direction of north-south. Such a layout of plants contributes to the best lighting of the rows of plants, reduces their shading to each other. If the beds are focused on the east to the west, then sowing / landing do not lead along, but across the bed.

On the slopes of the beds there are across the slope of individual terraces.

If the beds were fertilized in the fall under the poppill, then the spring fertilizer does not contribute. Works are limited by the closure of moisture (harrowing with rabls), pre-sowing cultivation and (if necessary) local irrigation on furrows or wells before sowing / landing.

Monhly updates.

Deep Grokes

Deep beds are divided into in-depth and trench. With this technology, the base of the bed is deepened into the soil. Usually, in-depthricted beds are formed in greenhouses, and in the open ground - on the turf lands or skiddes.

As for the classic, there are a surround area. In each corner, the pegs are driven and stretched at the same height signal cord. Cropped with a knife or shovel around the perimeter of the garden (it may not have 4, and 5-6 angles - according to your choice) a layer of turf. Roll it as a carpet.

It turns out the base of the in-depth bed. To reduce the germination of weeds, the base of the bed is covered with a dense flooring from any girlfriend natural materials - cardboard, old newspapers read from the holes of old magazines, rags. On the base laid the turde carpet by turden. And then it is mixed with 10-12 cm layers with humus, ground (from tracks), compost. The order of laying layers is to choose a host, the main thing - the upper layer should be from high-quality, better humus ground. In the spring, the garden is harrowing to close moisture. Before sowing / landing, the looser and locally watered (if necessary). Fertilizer's application is required. Such a bed with early spring can be occupied by cold-resistant cultures. The humid and compost, decomposing, will contribute to the increase in the temperature of the soil layer. And for cold-resistant crops, it is enough + 3 ... + 5 * C to start sowing. After the harvesting of early with short vegetation, crops can be seeded by the seedlings of thermo-loving crops. Trench beds are mainly used in the south. Shoot trenches to a depth of 30-50 cm. The base is dried with the introduction of organic and mineral fertilizers. Soil does not dry. Plants are stubborn from the burning of the rays of the sun, form good yields, they are less ill. But, such beds are suitable only for soils with good water permeability. On clay, chernozem and other flawed soils, turning off the roots and the appearance of root rotes will begin everywhere.

High Grokes

Recently, increasing recognition gets agriculture without resistance. It is most convenient to exercise it at elevated or high beds. In the farmers, they receive different names, but the main essence is that the soil does not need the soil in such beds. The upper layer is enriched with useful microflora, weeds are easily destroyed.

Annually, the garden is introduced into the garden, the weeding under the cultures are replaced by mulching.

The technology of breaking such beds is to create a fence for increased beds of 20-25 cm, high - up to 50-60, sometimes up to 90 cm. Fencing beds, laid on Earth, received different names from gardens:

compost
raised
warm
high garden,
puff garden,
garden-lasagna.

The bulky, or compost, warm bed is usually arranged directly on the garden. The bedrocks of the standard size are fitted with a suitable material: boards, shields, wicker vine and others. The soil can be swapped on the bayonet shovel to increase its water permeability. The dry branches, bark of trees, chips, chips, leaves, solol, sawdust, old rags are laid on the ground or straight on the ground. From above, a layer of 10-12 cm is placed compost or overwhelmed manure, straw with bird litter. The next layer is soil and again organic. Calculate so that the upper layer is from a good garden land, you can mix the sheet with humus. Scheduled fertilizers can be added to the top layer under the rake. The soil, humid, mature compost add to the settlement bed. You can use green fertilizer - Siderats. It is better to sow oats or rye without blockage in the soil. Just scatter seeds over the soil and peel the bed. If necessary - to pour. It is advisable to leave the Siderat to spring. In the spring, throw the overhead mass and use it for mulching sowing or when disembarking seedlings.

Multilayer beds can not be dragged. Only annually add a mixture of organic matter with soil. Before planting / sowing, slightly explode the upper 5-10 cm layer. Such a garden is watered by hot water to spring, insulate the coating material, straw. The organ "lights up", that is, intensively decomposes with heat release. Soil in such a garden is warmed by 6-12 days faster than the usual ground. Warm bed makes it earlier to plant seedlings (if necessary - under the shelter) and get an earlier harvest of vegetables. Increased, warmed beds can be put in cultural work in all regions.

Crichet-boxes

Cricket boxes have long been used by gardens. These are the same greenhouses in which they grow early seedlings, and after its samples, vegetable cultures are planted on a permanent place. They are good because after sampling, seedlings practically do not need preparation, since the soil under seedlings is always prepared very carefully and with sufficient fertilizer.

Grocery-box

Grokes-box appeared relatively recently and are already evaluated in areas with a wet summer and a cold climate.

Their device repeats the construction of increased beds. You can familiarize yourself with them in more detail in the relevant article. This type of bed has a number of advantages:

in the northern regions, a bulk garden cuts off cold soil,
studies of organic residues creates an early positive temperature of the soil, which accelerates sowing / landing early crops,
when watering, water does not spread,
missing weeds
it is easy to fight with crots, it is lined with a small grid.

Grokes-box in one place can "work" to 6-8 years or more, if they are working capital.

Complication of care

After 3, the laid body will be overlooking. The upper layer of the soil will need to be removed, replaced with a fresh layer of soil, better by an organic matter with subsequent mulching by an organ-soil mixture. So that the soil does not overheat, frequent waterings that destroy the soil structure are necessary. A few years later, new organ-soil layers are needed to launch warm beds, which complicates care.

And at the same time, in the cold northern Groinsky-box - it is progress in open soil vegetable.

To prepare a plot for early sowing, it is necessary:

Major works (cleaning of plant residues, perplex, fertilizer, deoxidation, sowing sites) are performed in the fall, which allows you to have time to prepare the soil to sow early crops in the spring.
In the spring, as soon as the tillage of the soil allows, harrowing is harrowing to close (save) moisture. If necessary, the soil is mured with beveled seeded, shallow chips, humus.
When the wind is dried and for faster heating, the soil beds are covered with loosely or other coating materials. This technique accelerates the heating of the soil to 6-12 days.
In order to obtain an early harvest prepare warm beds. They can be embedded from autumn and warming up with watering hot water or in the spring of manure with straw under the soil layer.

The best beds for the south are classic, raised and trench.

For cold regions with short summer and strong frosts in winter, early vegetable cultures are better grown in beds-boxes, boxes-boxes, in which the soil is heated faster, not related to the main soil.

The future crop of pepper depends not only on the seedlings, but also from the Earth in which he planted. It can be independently cooked primer or option purchased in specialized gardening stores.

The problem of the latter lies in the fact that such options are made from peat with the addition of excessive amounts of fertilizers. That is why they are so often "burning" seedlings. In this regard, good soil for the landing is better to prepare himself, while not experiencing about its quality. It is worth considering all the nuances of cooking in more detail.

General requirements

Excess minerals can not only slow down the growth of seeds, but also cause the development of various kinds of diseases in them.

To grow good and strong seedlings, it is necessary that the Earth meets such requirements:

Good permeability moisture and air. To achieve this, the soil should have the desired degree of loosenness, to be porous and not very difficult, so that good access is provided to the roots of the plant and for oxygen, and for water.
Balanced by fertilizers and minerals. As part of the Earth, not counting all organic substances should contain useful trace elements in an easily-friendly form for plants, but in an amount not exceeding the norm.
Acidity. It should not exceed the indicator 7.0, but at the same time be at least 6.5.

Simply put, to grow pepper seedlings, the land must be balanced by nutritional elements. Any significant deviation from the norm adversely affects yields. It is best to make feeding with time during the active phase of growth.

The composition of the soil

In no case cannot be added clay, it will make the soil more dense and reduce its bandwidth.

The standard problem at novice gardeners is planting seeds into untreated soil. It becomes the reason for unsuccessful attempts to grow seedlings themselves, after which they buy ready-made options for landing.

So that this does not occur, the soil must be properly prepared, so it should consist of such components as:

Peat. It allows you to make the soil of the desired looseness and provide the desired humidity plant.
Humus. Due to the content of a huge amount of minerals, it is the best tool for increasing fertility.
Basin. The main type of such a component is river sand. If it is used with peat, then such a mixture replaces sawdust. However, it is worth noting that before applying them must first be treated with boiling water.
Sheet land. A good option of loose soil. The main minus is in the low content of the necessary minerals and nutritional elements.

It is worth knowing: If you are used by purchased soil options, they must be diluted with ashes and sand to reduce the standard reduction in minerals.

Therefore, to use this type of land, you need to combine it with other types of soil and fertilizer. They collect such land in forest belts, where deciduous trees grow in large quantities.

Mixing components

If there is no possibility to use manure, it can be replaced by various mineral fertilizers.

The process of preparing the soil for seedlings begins with mixing. To do this, a thick polyethylene film is spread to the Earth, on which all components are poured into the following proportions.

Standard soil option for pepper seedlings should have such a composition:

Mix in the same quantities of turf land, peat and as many river sand. Mix all this mixture very well and add 30 g of superphosphate to them, as much of potassium sulfate, 10 liters of water and 10 g of carbamide. Mix the mixture and leave to dry.

It's important to know: Those who have considerable experience advise for each grade to make a separate seedlings. It is necessary in order to more optimally select the components under the individual needs of each type.

Another option is to mix the humus with peat and the turf of the earth also in equal amounts. Mix and add half-liter cans of ash and 35-40 g of superphosphate.

Disinfection of soil

The most sparing option for soil disinfection is a freezing, since when processing with high temperatures, the soil loses its useful properties.

In addition, the seedlings can destroy the unbalanced soil, it can destroy the diseases. So that there are no harmful organisms and causative agents in the earth, it is necessary to carry out the disinfection procedure. For this, such methods are used:

Calcination.

This option is to treat the soil with high temperatures. For this, approximately 5 cm of the Earth is placed on the baking sheet, then placed in the oven.

Its temperature should be an average of 80 degrees. But you need to look at that this indicator does not rise above 90 degrees, because in this case the soil can lose its fertile properties and it will be impossible to grow seedlings on it.

Steaming.

Somewhere one month before the start of use, the Earth needs to disappear a few hours in a water bath. The capacitance cover in which this process will take place should be well closed.

Farming.

In the autumn you need to cook the soil and leave it in the tank on the street, while closing, to protect against precipitation. For about a month before use, to put into a warm room, let it warm up, after which it is mixed with the desired components. Then again to take out on the street and the remaining time let it insist.

An easy way to process the soil is to pour it by manganese and wait until dried, after which you can plant seeds.
To disinfect the soil, you can also use a fluid of fungicide, for example, foundazole.

These are the main ways, but not all. At the same time, each of them also has their supporters and their opponents, so you need to choose the method of disinfect.

Storage of soil

If the soil not treated with additives and fertilizers is usually stored on the balcony or in the garage, where the temperature in the winter time is about 0, then after processing and disinfection, the terms list increases.

Ready to use the Earth must be stored in dry and protected from sunlight rooms. Nearby should not be any drugs or food.

The temperature mode should be not lower than -35С and not higher than + 40 ° C, although it is better to store with minus indicators. With full compliance with these conditions, the shelf life of such a soil may be more than one year.

Soil for seedlings - a mixture of organic components and inorganic impurities. This is the basis necessary for the development of the root system, normal growth and fruiting plants. The yield will depend on the proper preparation of the soil for seedlings.

What kind of soil is better for seedlings?

You can use the purchased soil for seedlings. Convenient, fast and no harves. They are all on the basis of peat. But here you can encounter a problem, what mixture to choose? In order to choose a high-quality soil for seedlings, you need to understand the components or consult with a professional in a specialized store.

Save money and at the same time not to be disappointed in the results can be prepared independently soil for seedlings. It is not as difficult as it seems. The main thing to comply with the basic rules and recommendations for the preparation of the soil.

Basic requirements for the prepared soil

Prepared primer should be:

fertile and balanced;
light, porous, loose;
well absorb moisture;
have an average level of acidity;
contain microflora.

In the prepared soil should not be:

clay;
weed seeds;
active decomposing components;
pathogenic microorganisms, larvae, worms;
toxic substances.

Organic components and inorganic impurities

To improve the quality of the soil for seedlings, both inorganic impurities and organic components are used. It is important to know which of them can be used, and which are not.

Organic components

Suitable organic components:

wood ash;
egg shell (raw, crushed);
riding peat;
transition peat;
moss sphagnum;
low-head peat (after freeing, weathered);
sawdust of coniferous and deciduous trees;
heat treated turbulent land.

Unsuitable organic components:

humus;
petty chips of any tree breeds;
low-handed peat without processing;
sheet land;
hay, straw dust;
ferry earth without processing;
composts of all kinds;
sawdust painted wood.

Inorganic impurities for soil

Suitable for use:

washed bottom, quartz and river sand (excellent baking powder);
perlite (increases the looseness and air permeability of the soil);
(maintains the level of moisture);
vermiculitis (possesses the properties of perlite, contains in small quantities, magnesium, calcium);
crushed foam;
pumice;
ceramzit.

Unsuitable for use:

not washed river sand;
career sand with clay.

How to cook soil for seedlings with your own hands?

For the preparation of the best soil for seedlings, the ground is used, inorganic and organic components, prepared from autumn. Earth of moderate fertility for future seedlings can be taken from its site. It should not be strongly overwhelmed and very humid. After removing the layer 5 cm, it is cut with a thickness of 15 cm and placed in the boxes. Purified from weeds, large larvae and worms of the soil are well sifted. All the land lumps falling thoroughly "rubbish" in their hands. Then the cooked soil is subject to disinfect.

Defair methods

There is a lot of disinfection methods. All of them have both pros and cons. Most frequently used methods:

marching;
steaming;
calcination.

Destroy the weeds and part of the pests and at the same time do not turn the soil into a lifeless substrate, you can apply the freezing method. It consists in constant alternation: freezing - thawing. Boxes from the ground are put on the frost, a strengthening of precipitation. Pretty vocabulary, enter the warm room. Scattered with a layer of no more than 8 cm, moisturized with water. Boxes with soil in warmth are standing with a week, then put again on the frost.

The freezing method partially disinfects and improves the soil, but does not kill all the infection (keel disputes, phytoofluorosis).

Steaming is best spent a month before applying the soil for seedlings. The soil must be disappearing on a water bath with a closed capacitance capacitance for at least 3 hours. The calcination method occurs in a preheated to +40 oven for about 30 minutes. Thermal processing (steaming and calcination) kills all pathogens, as well as the necessary microorganisms. Therefore, in front of sowing to the ground add components necessary to restore microflora.

It is possible to displaced the soil already prepared by a mortar solution of average intensity.

Components that do not require pre-processing

For a good structure of the substrate, it is suitable: sand river, sawdust of coniferous and deciduous trees. Owls of coniferous trees do not require pre-processing. The only one cannot use sawdust, which are impregnated with diesel. River sand is enough to wash and free from stones.

The composition of the soil

The composition of the soil for seedlings directly depends on the requirements of the culture that you will plant. For example, for pepper, cucumber, bow, eggplant is suitable for composition: 25% of the Earth, 30% peat, 25% sand.
For cabbage, the percentage of sand is permissible to increase to 40%.
For tomato, the share of land can be increased to 70%.

A recipe suitable for almost any seedlings: 1 part of the drainage, 2 parts of the organic, 2 parts of the earth, with the help of ash or lime lower acidity.
If you need to increase the acidity of the soil as a deoxidizer, you can use a dolomite flour.

During the growth of seedlings, it is good to use water with divorced mineral fertilizers. But you should not overstat the soil for seedlings. Everything should be in moderation.

Buy or prepare the soil for seedlings yourself, of course, to solve you. But picking up the necessary composition of the soil, you do not have to constantly spend money on substrates of little-known manufacturers.

Video: Independent preparation of soil for seedlings

Our future yield of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and other cultures largely depends on the quality of the soil for seedlings, which we harm yourself or buy in the store.

Each vegetable places its requirements for the composition of the soil, but the main components of the right seaside ground as were and the land, peat and sand remain. Depending on the cultural culture, additional components are added to them in certain proportions: a coward, ash, sawdust, lime, chalk, mineral fertilizers.

We bring to your attention a reference table "How to prepare a soil under the seedlings of the main garden crops."

Fertility: Soil for seedling should contain all the necessary nutrients.
Balanced: All components of the soil must be in the optimal proportion. Too high or, on the contrary, too low a concentration of a particular mineral substance may adversely affect the quality of seedlings.
High air and moisture permeability: The soil mixture should be loose, light and porous without plant residues.
No pathogenic microbes, seeds of weeds, mushroom dispute, larvae, worms, etc., which are able to destroy young plants.
Purity, that is, unpollity of heavy metals, waste of harmful industries, etc.

Reference table with coating options for garden crops seedlings

Culture	Seeding options for seedlings
Tomato (tomato)	Option 1: 4 parts of peat, 1 piece of turf and 1/4 pieces of a cowboat or 3 peat parts, 1 part of sawdust, 1/2 part of a cowboat. By 10 kg. Such a mixture is added 3 kg. River sand, 10 grams of ammonium nitrate, 2-3 grams of superphosphate, 1-1.5 grams of potassium chloride. Option 2: 1 part of humus, 1 part of peat, 1 part of the turf land, 1 part of the twist wood sawdust of brown color. 1.5 cup of wood ash, 3 tablespoons of superphosphate, 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate, 1 teaspoon of urea is added to the bucket of such a mixture.
Sweet pepper	Option 1: 1 part of the turf of the earth and 2 parts of the dung area. Option 2: 2 peat parts and 2 pieces of humus. Option 3: 3 pieces of humus and 2 pieces of turf; Option 4: 2 parts of peat nutrient mixture and 1 part of the turf. Option 5: 4 parts of the peat, 2 pieces of the turf, 1 part of humus and 1 part of the lying sawdust of brown.
Cucumber	Option 1: 2 parts of peat, 2 pieces of humus, 1 part Piece of overworked sawdust. On a bucket of such a mixture, 1 cup of wood ash and 1 teaspoon of urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate are added. Option 2: 1 part of the turf land, 1 part of the compost or humus. On the bucket of such a mixture, 1 cup of ash, 10 grams of potassium sulfate and 20 grams of superphosphate are added. Option 3: 6 parts of peat, 1 part of humus, 1 part of sawdust, 1 part of sand, 1 part of a cowboat. Option 4: 1 part of the turf land, 1 part of the peat, 1 part of humus and 1 part of the lying sawdust.
Eggplant	Option 1: 2 parts of the compost or dung humor, 1 part of the peat and 1/2 of the part of the lying sawdust. Option 2: Garden land from under cabbage or cucumbers. On the bucket of the Earth is added half a cup of ash, 1 tablespoon of the scratched superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of urea and potassium sulfate.
Cabbage	Option 1: 1 part of the turf land, 1 part of humus and 1 part of the peat. Option 2: 5 pieces of the turf, 1 part of the ash, 1/4 of the lime part, 1/4 of the sand. Option 3: 3 parts of peat, 1 part of the turf, 1/4 of the sand.
Celery	6-7 parts of peat, 2 pieces of humus, 1 part of the turf land and 1 part of the cow.
Salad	3 pieces of peat, 1 part of the turf, 3 pieces of humus, 1 part of the sand.
Strawberry	Option 1: 3 parts of the garden land, 3 parts of humus or compost, 1/2 part of wood ash. Option 2: 4 parts of vermiculite, 3 parts of peat, 3 pieces of sand.
Basil	Option 1: 2 pieces of coconut fiber, 1 part of humus or biohumus. Option 2: 2 parts of the peat, 1 part of humus. Such a mixture should be shed a solution of mineral fertilizers: 1 liter of water 1/8 teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate or potassium chloride and superphosphate.

After the preparation of the soil mixture, store it in a cool room: in the garage, cellar or shed - let the soil freeze, which will dry out in the apartment.

It is also necessary to remember that before planting seeds for seedlings, the soil is recommended to be disinfected - to get rid of possible causative agents of diseases, larvae and dispute. Usually it is recommended to disappear soil. How it's done? The soil is laid out on a finely playful mesh and withstands 35-40 minutes with boiling water, after which it cools and folds into the seedling pot. Labor-intensive process, is not it? But efficient.

But if there is no desire to engage the soil for seedlings, the soil mixture can be cleaned from unnecessary microflora and fauna by marking. In this case, the soil is kept in a negative temperature (for example, on an open balcony) during the week, and then brought into a warm room for thawing for 3-4 days.

There is another option for lazy - shed the ground before planting a hot raspberry solution. Then he will only wait until the soil gets up, and you can safely plant seed seeds.

We wish you success and big harvests!

The country season has already begun in many regions of Russia. But the preparations for him the avid gardens begin in the fall, when the soil is harvested for seedlings, which will be planted in February-March. However, many people have already abandoned this classes and prefer to buy ready-made soils.

Purchased and independently cooked primer for seedling: reviews

Supporters of the purchase and personally cooked soil have their own arguments in favor of their choice. Ready substrates today can be purchased at any specialized store or even a supermarket. They are found in any varieties - universal, for seedlings, for some particular plants. Each species differs from components and their proportions, so you can find the perfect soil for any culture. But at the same time, buyers often complain about the low quality of ready-made substrates - seedlings in such grows weakened or "burns" to the root before landing.

According to the reviews of more hard-working gardens, which themselves prepare the soil for seedlings, such problems can be avoided. In this case, the substrate is mixed with their own hands, in the correct proportion, and the components are selected the best of the available. But the problem is that such a soil for seedlings will be infected with all microorganisms, disputes, fungi, pests and seeds of weighing plants, which were met on the place where he was taken from. In addition, in some regions it is difficult to find good fertile soil. We must not forget that when preparing the soil, you need to understand what composition and proportion of components will be perfect.

So a unambiguous answer to what the soil is better does not exist. Always need to navigate in circumstances.

Best substrate

What kind of soil is better for seedlings? No matter what kind of primer, purchased or independently cooked. Any land for seedlings should be high quality and possess the following characteristics:

Looseness. A more porous structure will not prevent free circulation of air and water. Components should be selected so that the mixture does not fit with time and not solid until the state of the stone was not prone to the formation of lumps. High-quality land does not have clay in its composition, with this component, it becomes unsuitable for growing seedlings.
Fertility. The composition should be mineral complexes and organic matter, which will provide young plants base for intensive growth.
Lack of microorganisms, dispute, fungi, pest larvae and weed seeds. At the same time, complete sterility is not welcome, since useful bacteria contribute to the normal development and growth of bacteria.
Fully decomposed organic complex. If there are still decomposing organic substances in the composition, it will lead to the death of seedlings.
Neutral pH. The soil should not be an acidic nor alkaline, but a normal acidity index for soil is 6.5-6.6 pH. It is as close as possible to the neutral level.

These are the main characteristics of any universal mixture for seedlings.

Types of ready-made soils

Finished soils for seedlings as a whole can be divided into three large groups:

Professional - with various additives, moisture retarders, breakdowns and other facilitating labor components.
Amateur - Simple mixtures of a small number of ingredients, in a small packaging.
Special - substrates for exotic and rare crops with special properties.

For a small amount of seedlings, you can use amateur soils - they are inexpensive and suitable for most plants. If you need to plant not one greenhouse, then you should buy professional soils - they are more expensive and sold in bags of 150 liters.

If we talk about the specific types of finished soils, then the following can be distinguished:

"Living Earth", "Terra Vita" - fully natural ready-made land with the addition of biohumus, argoperlitis, sand and mineral complex. Distinced. There are several types of "living earth" - "universal", "floral", "№1" (for tomatoes and pepper), "№2" - they differ in different acidity and slightly composition. This mixture can be used for seedlings or apply as fertilizer.
"Gumimax" - sterilized soils from low or upper peat with sand, compost and fertilizers. The composition is a humate potassium.
"Earth-Mother" is a soil for seedlings with the addition of biohumus and humate. But insufficiently loose, so it needs to be diluted with sand.
"Micristen" is a neutral land for seedlings and the growth of winter greenery. But, according to reviews, it is not necessary to use it in its pure form, it is better to mix with a steady soil in equal proportions, adding a little sand and laying sawdust.
"For cucumbers" - the soil contains peat, ideal for growing seedlings. You can use both mulch and add to transplantation as fertilizer.
Tomato is a ready-made product for growing tomatoes, Physalis and Bulgarian peppers.

The soils of "biode" are the latest organic machinery based on null compost. They have already deserved the right to be called the best ready-made complexes. There are several types of such soils - from №1 to №6, each is intended for some specific cultures. For seedlings, vegetables perfect number 4.
"Garden Earth" is a simple mixture of soil, peat, overworked sawdust and mineral complex.
"Violet" - a brick from a compressed peat. Designed to distill greens on the windowsill.
"Universal" - consists of low-spirited peat and overworked sawdust with the addition of mineral fertilizers. When using this product it is better to enrich any useful additives, such as biohumus.
"Torpholid" - ready-made cellular peat tiles. It is convenient to use when clearing cabbage and some other crops.
Biohumus is a mixture of peat, brown sawdust, reworked manure and aviation. Biological and nutritious characteristics are much higher than that of humus.
The "supercompost of PICS" is expensive organic fertilizer, is used mainly to increase the fertility of the soil.

If seedling "burns" in the ground

If seedling "burns" in the ground, this suggests that there are indecomposable organic components. They continue the decomposition process, heat the soil, and seedlings die. The undetended organic is visible to the naked eye - if the product has a fibrous structure, it means that it contains a riding peat, which has not yet managed to completely ferry. Such soils should be decking the addition of dolomite flour.

Also, ready-made soils may be too acidic. This can be checked using a litmus paper: the handful of land is stirred with rainwater to a sour cream state, then when the water is dents, you need to omit the indicator. If the piece of paper turns, the soil is very sour, yellowes - sour. Blue with a green tint will mean a neutral level, blue - alkaline soil.

What to pay attention to when buying

How to buy the best soil for seedlings? To do this, use the following tips:

High-quality mixture is homogeneous, without lumps, aligned in composition.
The size of the fractions of the soil is of great importance - too small particles of the Earth are quickly joined and zakyat, large quickly dry. You need to choose something mean, 3-4 mm in the largest fractions.
The poor-quality substrate can be determined by the presence of indecomposted fibers and other plant residues, lumps, stale smell.
Carefully study the label: you can find information about the composition and appointment of the finished soil.
Carefully choose a substrate containing wood sawdust. On the one hand, this is a good baking powder, but some species of trees strongly scatter the soil.

How to disinfect soil from your own garden

If none of the finished substrates inspires confidence, you can cook the soil for planting seedlings yourself. But it is necessary to start his cooking in advance, since raw land needs to be disinfected. To do this, use one of the following ways:

Freezing and thawing. You can repeat several times.
Steaming on a water bath for 2-3 hours.
Elimination - in the oven by 90 ⁰c, not less than half an hour.
Warming up in the microwave - in small portions.
Strait of soil with boiling water - small portions.
Flushing in a weak solution of manganese.
Etching "Aktar" or Fungicides.
Adding "Phytosporin".

After applying any method of disinfection of experts, it is recommended to withstand the ground for 2-3 weeks before use.

What is the universal mixture

For the preparation of soil for seedlings of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and other vegetable crops, only a few components are necessary:

Earth, best of all nervous or delicious, but it is possible and poorer, if only she did not contain clay.
River sand, which will provide a substrate more loose structure and good drainage.
Peat soil, humid or compost, which will increase the nutritional value.

These are the main components, but also use other components: overwhelming sawdust, ashes, vegetable fiber, moss, chalk, mineral fertilizer complexes, lime, etc. in different proportions.

What kind of soil for seedlings is best used? The universal substrate is well suited for most vegetable and flower crops, but you can also prepare the optimal mixtures for specific plants.

Ground for cucumbers

For the preparation of soil for cucumber seedlings, it is necessary to mix in equal parts of the turf land and humus. For each bucket of the resulting substrate you need to add a glass of ash.

Another option: mix in equal parts disgraced earth from the garden, any universal purchased soil and river sand.

Another composition: two buckets of the turf or leaf land, 200 g of superphosphate and 10 g of sulfur potassium, then add ½ cup of ash and 80 g of ammonia nitrate.

For tomatoes

The soil for the seedlings of tomatoes is prepared as follows: in equal shares, the deafening ground is mixed, disgraced soil from the garden, river sand and humus. Then to prepare a liquid mineral complex: 10 g of carbamide, 30 g of superphosphate and 25 g of potassium sulfate by 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is good to shed soil a few days before landing.

The next recipe is equal parts of the turf, peat and sand.

For pepper Bulgarian

The soil for pepper seedlings is easy to prepare, besides, it is suitable for most varieties of this culture. It is mixed from the same components and in the same proportions as the substrate for tomatoes. Also for pepper, you can use a mixture of equal parts of peat, delicate soil and humus.

For cabbage

To get large dense cochanists, you need to grow cabbage in fertile soil with a neutral pH. You can use the following types of soils:

Mix in the same pieces of turf soil, peat and humus.
On 10 parts of the turf soil, add two parts of wood ash and half a share of ash and sand.
On 6 shares of peat you need to take two parts of the turf and half of the sand.