Repairs Design Furniture

It is better to make a warm water floor. The device of warm water floor with their own hands: What will you have to come across installation? Circulation pump for a warm floor

Water warm floor is a heating system that uses hot water as a heat source for the room. The principle of operation of such a heating system is quite simple: special flexible pipes are installed on the floor surface, according to which a hot heat carrier is applied.

The heat source for such a heating system is a central heating system or a gas boiler. Installation of water underground can be performed with your own hands, but before that it will be necessary to make a project correctly and decide on the connection method.

The water warm floor system installed in the apartment consists of:

  • Water heating boiler;
  • Circulating pump;
  • Ball valves installed at the entrance to the boiler;
  • Pipes for wiring and laying the heating line;
  • Collector;
  • Regulation and configuration systems;
  • Fittings connecting collector with pipeline.

The boiler that needs to be connected to the plumbing heating system can be:

  • Electric;
  • Gas;
  • Solid fuel;
  • On liquid fuel.

The circulation pump is included in most boiler models, but before installing it, it is necessary to make calculation and find out if its power is enough for a warm-alone system. The capacity takes the power of the heating circuit, (kW) and the temperature of the coolant.

The collector distributes hot water over the heating circuit - it is used to set up and adjust the warm floors in the apartment. You can make and connect a collector using metal-plastic pipes with your own hands - this will save money on the installation of the system.

The cake of water warm floor laid in the screed is divided into three layers - this is:

  • Shielding substrate;
  • Heating circuit;
  • Finish flooring.

A foil coating film is used as a shielding substrate. Film protects the heating contour from possible heat loss.

Water warm cake without a screed consists of:

  • Primary gender;
  • Thermal insulation layer, best - a special polystyrene cooker;
  • Aluminum plates for laying pipes;
  • Heating pipes;
  • Substrates;
  • Finish coating.

Compare water and electric heated floors, it should be noted that:

  • Perform the design and install the water floor is more complicated and more expensive than electric, but its operation is much cheaper. Heating 10 square meters. m., water floor consumes only 1.5 kW of electricity per hour.
  • The water heat system is characterized by the complexity of temperature adjustment in the apartment. Adjusting the heating of electric floors is quite simple.
  • The starting heating of the floor in the water system occupies a much less time than that of electric.
  • With a large area of \u200b\u200bthe room, you can make water floors the main source of heating, with a small area of \u200b\u200bthe room, it is recommended to be heated by electric heat floors.

Water Heat Project

H2_2.

Optimal floor heating temperature.

The project compilation instruction requires the presence of baseline data, which includes the level of heat loss of the entire building and each room separately. In addition, you must calculate the temperature value in advance to be in each room.

The technology is focused on averaged data, so the water floor on average generates energy of 100 W / m2, which is equal to the average heat loss "averaged building". When drawing up a project, it is necessary to take into account that the warm water floor in each room will cover various heat loss. For example, in the bedroom, they make up 50 W / m2, in the hall 100 W / m2, in the bathroom 75 W / m2.

Pipe laying scheme

The pipes for the heat transfer system are made from stitched polyethylene, polypropylene, copper, metalplastic or stainless steel. The advantage of polypropylene pipes is their low cost. Metal-plastic products retain the stability of the form and are not deformed. Copper pipes have a long operating time and high degree of thermal conductivity. Stitched polyethylene pipes are distinguished by high thermal stability and durability.

Before you start laying a water heating system with your own hands, you need to select a piping step. Here step is the distance between the laid pipes performing the heating of the floor. The pitching step affects how the temperature on the floor surface will evenly be distributed.

The laying instruction allows you to use a step from 5 to 60 cm, but most often the laying of pipes are made in a step of 15-30 cm. The choice of this parameter must be done depending on the type and features of the room, as well as the indicators of its calculated heat load. For example, to mount the pipe system in a step of laying at 15 cm is recommended in the bathrooms and all those rooms where the uniform heat distribution on the floor surface is important at the level of heating loads in more than 85 W / m2. You can put pipes with orientation to the following schemes:


When implementing the scheme of laying "Snail", the pipeline must be put in a spiral, which is spinning to the walls from the center of the room. "Snail" is the most popular and frequently found method of laying pipes with their own hands. The design of such a scheme makes it possible to feed and reverse is located near, which contributes to the alignment of the average floor temperature, in which cold zones will not occur.

Such a scheme allows heating to the coldest sections located along the outer walls. Reverse circuit The instruction allows you to mount closer to the center of the room. You can make the stacking snake in rooms with a floor bias - it is important to properly put the heating circuit in the highest part of the room. This will contribute to the independent air outlet from the pipeline to the collector.

Laying of pipes by double snake allows you to smooth out floor heating unevenness. To perform such laying, you need to do double loops of feed loops and returns. The laying technology allows combining the schemes of "snail" and "snake" - the snake of the pipes are stacked around the perimeter of the walls, and in the middle of the room they are stacked by a spiral.

All the presented ways are directly dependent on the features of the room and the angle of tilt of the floor.

Tip! In the coldest zones, it is necessary to increase the dysnity of the styling of snake up to 10 cm, especially the sections near the external walls.

Warm floor connection methods

Connect with your own hands the water floor follows the connection chain "Pipe collector-boiler". The most common options are:

  • Systems using a collector.
  • Connection using three-way mixers;
  • Connecting with a circulation pump.

When connected using a collector, the system is mounted so that inverse and feed pipes are fluent in the collector cabinet. Next to the pipes are connected by the tank collector outputs that provide the feed and reverse movement of the coolant. The design is supplied with shut-off valves, with thermometers installed in them to monitor the temperature regime.

Fasteners of pipes, valves and other elements are performed using compressor fittings. In addition, fasteners of collectors to the water floor circuit can be made using special connections - brass nut, clamping ring or support sleeves. At the last stage, the collector is connected to the coolant pipes.

If you edit and connect a system with a three-way mixer, then it should be installed at the output of the reverse circuit. You can mount such a system with your own hands, connecting a directly three-way mixer with pipes to the boiler.

The collector needs to be supplemented with a splitter, on the upper side of which the air vent is installed. This element will provide air bubbles from the closed system. Fasteners of all components of the chain can be performed using fittings or clamping rings.

If the system is characterized by weak water pressure, and the mixer is not needed, you can install a circulation pump equipped with a thermostat. The pump can be connected to the central heating system, but it is necessary to do this after agreeing with the resolved bodies of the housing. Installing the pump is preferably on the reverse circuit of the system, since when installing on the feed circuit, it will take excess water, which can harm the central heating system.

How to install a warm water floor with a screed

The warm water floor system is set in the following order:

  1. The foundation is prepared - the main requirement for the draft floor is a flat surface and dryness.
  2. Putting the waterproofing layer. As a waterproofing, a conventional polyethylene film can be used. The film is spread over the entire surface and the joints are sickling with scotch.
  3. The damper tape is stacked. It is necessary to do it all over the perimeter of the room.
  4. Thermal insulation layer is mounted. A foamed polystyrene foam can be used, on top of which to steal a film with a foil coating.
  5. In accordance with the markup, the laying of pipes is performed.

After the hydraulic tests are carried out, there comes a queue of concrete fill. In order to make reinforcement, a metal mesh with a cross section of 5 mm wires should be used, with the size of the cells of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. The fill of the finishing screed can be made of blends for bulk floors, special building mixtures or a solution with the addition of plasticizer. The thickness of the concrete layer should not be more than 30-35 mm.

Tip! For the alignment of the non-frozen screed, the aluminum bar with a length of up to 2 m is best suited. The plank will help quickly and efficiently perform initial alignment.

After completion of the work, it is necessary to wait for the full pouring of the fill, after which it is necessary to carry a decorative coating.

How to install without a screed

Warm water type floor can be installed without applying a concrete screed - under a polystyrene base or wooden flooring floor.

Laying under the polystyrene framework is performed in the following order:

  1. In accordance with the preliminary marking, the polystyrene foam base in the form of plates is stacked. They fasten with each other with special locking locks.
  2. Aluminum plates fall into the grooves, on top of which pipes are stacked with orientation on the laying plan of the heating circuit.
  3. On top of the plates you can put the waterproofing layer - a conventional polyethylene film is suitable.
  4. The finish coating is placed on top of the plates.

When using wooden modules, the following actions are performed:

  1. The modules are put on the lags, the step of 600 mm is observed.
  2. Between the lags, the waterproofing and insulating layer is stacked.
  3. Modules are connected with each other with special locks.
  4. Metal plates are put on top of the layer of prepared modules.
  5. On top of the metal plates, laying of pipes according to the selected scheme.
  6. If the tile or linoleum will be laid under the warm wooden floor, it will be necessary to prepare a smooth surface - on top of the metal plates to put plasterboard sheets or chipboard plates, fix them and close all the joints and cracks using a putty.

Water warm floor is a decent replacement for conventional radiator heating. The costs of its installation, compared with other types of warm sex, for example, with a slightly larger, are somewhat larger, but these tools are completely justified during operation. About all the advantages and minuses You can read on the "Selecting Heating Paul" page, on the same page we will move directly to its installation, which consists of several stages:

Installation of collector cabinet

We define the location of the collector and install a special collector cabinet for it, the approximation of which is 60x40x12. Inside the collector cabinet will dock the heating pipes with the rest of the heat supply of the house. Also inside it will be installed elements regulating water supply and so on.
To install a collector cabinet, it is necessary to outline its sizes on the wall and add 1-1.5 cm of the gap from all sides, after which it cut out

bulgarian with a circle for concrete according to the planned slots. This is a slightly dusty procedure, but the edges of the niche under the collector box will be careful; Then the perforator is taken, it is preferable to more powerful, and the niche itself hosted, in which the cabinet is installed. If you do not have a grinder and perforator, then protective gloves, glasses, chisel, hammer and niche are hosted with these tools and "such mother" !!!

Collective cabinet assembly

So, the collector wardrobe is installed, we bring the pipe to it that provides hot water from the boiler and the return - this is a pipe that our water is returned to the first pipe, which has given the heat of the screed and cooled. Next, it comes again into the boiler, heats up and passes again into the first pipe feeding hot water (feed) with the help of a circulation pump that ensures uninterrupted water supply. To feed and reverse, you need to install shut-off valves.

If necessary, closing both valves, we disconnect our room from the total heating system of the house or apartment in the event of an unexpected damage to the water underfloor, repair or simply in order to save. Compression fitting is combined with a metallic valve with a plastic pipe. Next, set the collector is a brilliant tube similar to an incomprehensible braid tool that has several side outlets. Also, the collector has the main input and exit. The main entrance is connected to the valve, and the tee is set to the output, to which the drain valve is attached on one side, and with another automatic air vent, through which air bubbles are removed in the heating system. In case of unforeseen repair
It will be possible to drain the water through the drain crane. The side outputs of the collector will be connected pipes (contour) of our warm floor connecting with compression fittings.
Also to the beacon you can connect the water system of warm plinth

Preparation of the room


Indoors in which laying is planned water warm sex with their own hands, Place markings are made, taking into account the temperature extensions of the screed when heated. If the draft floor is not even, it is necessary to align with a cement depression solution, pre-trusting it with a primer for mineral surfaces, or to make a preliminary screed of the base, since the high-altitude differences of the area for one coil should not exceed 0.5-0.7 cm. On the floor having Ground base, produce waterproofing.

Heat insulation

In order for heat loss to reduce to zero, it is necessary to use as a substrate under the pipe foam, polystyrene foam foil or penplex. With these materials, the pipes of water warm floor will not warm the draft floor and heat will rapidly go up, warming up our room. Before thermal insulation, we pre-lay vaporizolation, that is, a polyethylene film that will protect the insulation from moisture. The film is laid out on 10 -15 cm and glue the joints with scotch. We laid along the walls to dampfer tape, which should perform over the height of the floor by 2-3 cm. The damper tape is a strip of the foamed polymer, the thickness of which is 0.5 cm and width 12-18 cm, which compensates for thermal screed extensions. Now we pave heat insulation. With cold overlap or when the lower room is not heated, (for example, a basement), the recommended layer of thermal insulation is at least 5 cm. On the size of the floor overlap is enough 2cm. The recommended material density is exceeding 25 kg per 1m3. It is very convenient for these purposes to use a foolish polystyrene with a thickness of 3 cm for these purposes, since its surface has special grooves for fastening the pipes with a diameter of 16, 17, 18 cm. Its bottom surface has a relief that helps smooth irregularities and increases sound insulation .


Laying pipes

It is better to use pipes made of transversely crosslied polyethylene, with high density (PE) or metalplastic.

If you use profile thermal insulation stoves, then you can just fix the pipes in special grooves with one just pressing them. But if you use another type of thermal insulation, then a wonderful option is to lay a reinforced mesh with a 3-mm wire cross section and the sizes of 10 × 10 cm cells, which in addition to the stripping of the screed, will make another useful business - you can bind pipes of our warm floor with wires or Fastening clamps, but not very tight, since when heating the pipes can be deformed due to different thermal expansion of materials (pipe and wire). You can also buy special clips or fastening tapes that are attached to the pipes directly on the heat insulation layer. Pipe fastening is made in increments of 1 meter. Schemes for which the pipes are diverse and in the people have different names: snakes, double snakes, snails, zigzags, a spiral with a displaced center, etc., you can choose anyone that you feel more convenient, I will stop at the two most common ways Styling pipes for water warm sex with their own hands.
1 Laying of warm water floors in the form of a snake.
This method demonstrates the laying of pipes to each other in the form of a snake, it is also called parallel. It is well suited for the premises of a small and medium square and put it better from the windows or walls outside the outside of the house, since the largest temperature will be at the entrance of the pipe.
2 Spiral Laying Pipes water warm sex with their own hands (in the form of a snail)
This method is better to apply in places with high heat consumption or indoors with a large area of \u200b\u200bm2. The large advantage of this method is that when one pipe is cooled - another compensates for its heating, due to the fact that the feeding and return pipe (feed and reverse) go parallel to each other. The patch of pipes with a spiral method from 10 to 30 cm. That is, the main area of \u200b\u200bthe room is set to 30 cm, and in the places of large heat loss (entrance doors, windows) reduces the laying step up to 15 cm. When the pipes are held near the walls, then the minimum distance Between them should not exceed 8 cm.

Connection

After you laid pipes in the way that you are preferable, and fixed them by any of the above methods - one end of the pipe attach to the feed collector, and the other to the return. If the room is large, then several contours are made (such loops) and collectors are appropriately selected with the desired number of inputs (outputs). It is desirable that each loop consists of a solid piece of pipe, because additional compounds increase the risk of leaks. It is also necessary to produce a deformation seam if your room's length is more than 7-8 meters. This seam is needed to compensate for thermal expansion and it is possible to make it from the same damper tape that has already been used early. Temperature seams must separate each contour, unless of course it is one. In the case when the temperature compensation seams pass through the heap pipes (feed or reverse), it is necessary to pre-put a protective corrugation with a length of 40-50 cm. If you forget to do it when laying pipes - this can be done before launching the temperature seam , cutting the corrugation across on one side and put on a cut down onto the pipe in the place where the temperature seam will be held.

Checking a water warm floor system with their own hands


Each contour you need to take turns to fill with water through its collector so that the air is completely left. For this purpose, flow meters and regulating cranes are opened on each circuit.

During the system check, the automatic air vent must be completely closed. Air needs to be lowered through drain valves.

If you are mounted water warm floor do it yourselfUsing pipes from metal plastic, then the system needs to be checked with cold water, with a pressure of 6 bar per 1 day. If the supplied pressure at the inlet is equal to the output pressure, it means everything is fine and you did everything right.

PE-X pipes (polyethylene) tested a little different way. The system is loaded with pressure, 2 times the large operating performance. Pressure in the pipes is beginning to decline. After 30 minutes, it is restored, and then repeat the procedure 2 more times.

After 90 minutes, after the last procedure, the system is left alone for a day. If during this period the pressure in the system will not decrease more than 1.5 bar, and the pipes will not give the leakage, then the check has passed successfully.

Then the system is checked for heat resistance. Warm floors are heated to + 85 ° for 30 minutes, while tested the tightness of the tubes and the compound, this is especially true of the collet.

If necessary, they should be tightened. To remove the voltage, the system must be warm up. After cooling the pipes, a concrete screed is poured, but a little later, let's imagine that our water warm floor do it yourselfready and we need to adjust the room temperature.

Water warm floor temperature adjustment


For this, two common options are used:
1) The easiest and most common option is adjusting the supply of hot water using the valves on the outputs of the collector, the smaller the feed, the smaller the temperature in the room and vice versa. To begin with, the room is usually heated, and then the supply of hot water decreases and a certain temperature remains.
2) With the help of automation specifically designed for water heating floor.
The automation contains two blocks, the first is an electric valve installed in front of the collector and its essence is to open and closing the hot water supply.
It controls the valve servomotor, also the thermostat can have an additional sensor. The second block contains an electronic thermostat that is batted on the inside of the wall,
Built in the screed. You give the temperature to the temperature setting and it observes it, affecting the electric valve based on the testimony of its sensors. All simple! Very comfortable thing !!!

Screed for water warm sex with their own hands

After the water heating floor system, installed by its own hands, passed all the tests go to the pouring of the screed. Its minimum height should be at least 3 cm, and the maximum - no more than 7 cm. When using the heat-insulating layer, the screed layer must be at least 5 cm. The recommended thickness of the screed layer above the pipe level is not more than 3 cm. Screed for water warm floor - This is a very responsible stage, no less responsible than the assembly of the water warm sex with their own hands. Many people do not give it importance, and in vain, since the appearance and durability of the coating of the warm floor will be dependent on the quality of the screed, including the finish. For example, if you buy a ready-made cement mixture of a poor-quality producer or make it wrong with your own hands, then during a short time after filling the screed, it will begin to deform, crack and see due to temperature exposure, so that the upper decorative layer, such as a tile, too It will be out of order ahead of time.
For such things as water warm floor, the screed must be resistant to deformation at temperature effects and not to give cracks, as well as possess high thermal conductivity in order to maximize the heat produced by the pipes of water heating floor. In order for you to make yourself exactly such a screed, an article has been prepared for you, in which all sorts of delicious recipes of cement-sand solutions are specifically for a heap screed.

Buy stamp for concrete
At the final stage of the finishing decorative coating, the screed can be used by a more economical and less banal option than a ceramic tile, namely, to apply a thin layer of cement mixture (0.6 - 10 mm) and using stamps for concrete to make embossing or printing defined Your chosen texture. You will significantly save on the tile and get a durable, reliable coating with good thermal conductivity and heat transfer.Read more about this on the page thin-layer decorative concrete.

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Articles

Water installation as the heating method of premises (by the way, not only residential), has a number of indisputable advantages over the radiator or convection heating system. First, the warm floors ensure the heating of the room uniformly, and the direction of warming up the bottom up is beneficial for the human body. The use of such systems does not even affect theoretical harm to health - on the contrary, water warm floor reduces the concentration of dust in the air and does not sew air as its electrical analogs. From aesthetic point of view, the lack of bulky radiators and batteries allows to achieve designer attractiveness and expands residential space. Economically, the water heating floor is expensive - but this is a one-time investment. Operation of high-quality warm floors with hot water circulation lasts several decades, and maintenance does not require large material costs.

Warm water floor

Structurally water floor is a network of one or more pipe contours, mounted in a concrete basis. It is possible to arrange such systems on a wooden basis, but the efficiency of heat transfer is reduced and the choice of decorative finishing options is reduced. Hot water circulating in pipelines warms the floor and adjacent to it layer of air, providing heat in the entire room. Barefoot is possible to go to the smallest weather by barefoot in its apartment only when heating with "warm floors" - no radiator or heat gun will not allow you. The finishing of the upper (working) surface may be different. Ceramic tiles, laminated panels and other coatings can fit into various repair concepts and at the same time serve as a functional finishing coating for warm floors.

The type of water heated floor is compared with a puff pastry - a very labeled analogy. Each Cake Layer performs its task, ignoring any component will not allow to obtain high-quality "baking" in this repair "cooking":

  • Base. It must be concrete. A device of water warm floors on rough wooden floors, on sandy or earth frustration (usually when working outdoors) - but the concrete base is the best construction solution, especially in terms of long-term and reliable operation.
  • Layer of waterproofing. In most cases, it is combined with a gasket of damper tape around the perimeter of the room to compensate for mechanical loads.
  • Layer of thermal insulation. Thermal insulation is intended for the directional action of thermal radiation - upwards to the finish coating and to reduce the misuse of the base material.
  • Contour system of pipes. The main part of any water heated floor provides all its functional advantages.
  • Bearing layer. Pipes have sufficient strength, but laying tiles or linoleum directly They can not. In addition to the uniform pressure distribution, the carrier interlayer from the screed contributes to the warm-up of the entire surface of the floor, without local zones with high / low temperatures.
  • Finish coat. Performs decorative and aesthetic tasks must have good thermal conducting qualities.

Even before the start of re-equipment of the heating system according to the method of water warm floors, it is important to consider not only the cost of components and timing of work. The dimensions of the design should be taken into account - various variants of the water warm flooring device have a thickness of 80 to 160 mm. A specific size depends on the diameter of the pipes used, the type of insulation, the thickness of the screed, etc., but in any case the height of the room will decrease.

Consider the main stages of installation of water floors with the degree of details, which does not interfere with the versatility of advice and recommendations.

Water Paul Installation Rules

General rules for mounting pipelines with a device of water warm floors are as follows:

  • The density of the laying of pipes is determined by the necessary level of room warming. Therefore, near the facade walls, entrance doors, etc. Stop it is tight, but at the center of the room - less often. The distance from the pipe to the wall or door threshold should be at least 12 centimeters.
  • The step between pipe structures should lie within 10 - 30 centimeters. With a smaller gap increases the length of pumping, which makes it difficult to circulate. When mounting gaps, more than 30 cm probably uneven heating of the floor, with the presence of "warm" and "cold" stripes.
  • The length of one contour is undesirable to perform greater than 100 meters. For systems with autonomous equipment for circulation (own pumps), this requirement is not relevant, but they are much more expensive.
  • Installation of pipes at the joints of thermal insulation stoves, transitions from the room into the room, the joints of the plates of interpochor floors are performed in metal sleeves.
  • If several circuits are provided in the selected water floor system, it is necessary to decide in advance - where the control manifold with gearboxes, sensors and other necessary equipment will be located. This distribution cabinet can be fitted in the designer concept of the repaired premises, it is obliged to provide easy access to all adjustable devices.
  • The main schemes of the installation of pipes in the device of water warm floor - "Zigzag", "Spiral" and "Snake". The choice between them depends on the specifics of the room, such as the selected pipes and other features. According to any of the selected schemes, the installation is carried out with fixation of pipes - either in the grooves of heat-insulating plates, or using special clamps or a combined method.

Hydraulic water floors tests

When the laying and connection of pipes, when installing water floors, are completed and they are connected to water supply, must be "placed".

Water is supplied to each outline of water floors separately. The air is watered through specially provided drainage plugs - otherwise you can damage automatic air vents, dust and dirt there are dust inside the pipes. Under pressure, the warm floor should be withstanding for two days, many experts advise you to choose test pressure with a reserve - where it is technologically possible. With the slightest signs of leaks, the poor-quality plot should be dismantled and removed. The re-test is carried out throughout the system of the warm floor - and not only on the problem circuit. Tested quite differently.

Installation of the finishing screed with water floors

After the completion of hydraulic tests, the finishing screed is made - the final stage of all work (if you exclude the flooring of the floor with a decorative coating - linoleum, ceramic tiles, etc.) The main rules for creating the finishing screed are as follows:

  • If a metal mesh is stacked - it performs reinforcing functions - then the wire cross section should be at least 3 mm 2, and the size of the cells is at least 10 per 10 cm
  • Mesh sheets should not cross deformation seams (with extensive surfaces of the fill, such seams are required)
  • If the fibrovocol - metallic or polymer is chosen as the reinforcing method - it is added directly to the solution. The labor intensity of work on the installation of the finishing screed is reduced, its cost is growing.

The pouring of the finish tie is performed from blends for bulk floors, special building leveling mixtures or plasticizer solutions. The presence of plasticizers allows you to increase the thickness of the finish layer to 5 cm (when using conventional mixtures, it should not exceed 3-3.5 cm)

The temperature and humidity of the air in the repaired room must comply with the recommended values \u200b\u200bof the manufacturers of building mixtures. It is important to wait for a complete drying of the finish layer - and only then to fit the decorative coating. The system of water heated floor can already be used and operated in a heated room. When installing baseboards and in general, any designs with long fastening elements need to be careful and not damage the laid pipes.

The system of water warm floors is able to serve for a very long time - up to 50 years. It requires solid repair costs, but you get used to the warm floor under your feet very quickly - however, as it really is truly good ...

The warm floor is an excellent option to create a comfortable temperature regime in the room. Cool tile pleases only in summer, and it is not always, but in the winter barefoot legs on the cold semi completely unpleasant. The installation of a warm floor will create acceptable conditions for the operation of any decorative flooring, it does not matter whether it is a laminate or ceramic finish.

To date, there are 2 large groups of outdoor heating - water and electric. The first option is very laborious in the installation, but economical in operation. The second, on the contrary, you can even install a newcomer, but electricity bills will increase significantly. In this article we will tell you how the installation of water warm floor is going on and what to pay attention to.

general information

Before talking about the technology of mounting warm water floor, we will deal with the concept of such an installation.

So, the warm floor is one of the premium heating variations, the most important feature of which is a large heat transfer surface with a constant air convection. In other words, with the same power of radiators and a warm floor, warmer will be in the room where the last option is installed.

In order for the laying of a warm floor to be as clear to the perception, it is worth first to remember the traditional water heating scheme. The main heat transfer elements in such a chain are radiators. Air masses, heating from the walls of radiator sections, rushes up, as cool down, go down, and such circulation occurs permanently.

Typical pipe laying schemes

Of course, modern batteries feel well the room, but cold sites also a lot. Basically, this is the space at the floor surface that does not heat up to the end.

Features of the outdoor system

The technology of installation of water warm floors is characterized by a slightly different picture. The heating pipeline element is located directly in the cavity of the floor covering, and if you correctly install this system, the heat coming from the source will be distributed evenly throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

Ultimately, thermal flows of air masses begin their movement up directly from the coating itself, providing more comfortable conditions for a person. In addition, legs are in constant contact with the floor, and when this surface is warm, it is impossible to freeze even in light clothes.

Water warm floor, mounting which, although it is complicated, but fully in force, in most cases, it is used as the main system of home heating, apartments or a separate room. And if the electric floors can only be put on a separate area, then mount the water system is too difficult to take it all a couple of square meters.

What you need to know before installing

If you plan to use hot water as a coolant, the meaning of such a system is quite simple. Instead of batteries connected to centralized heating, a flexible special pipeline is laid under the coating, and hot water circulation will be carried out. This installation can work from an autonomous gas boiler.

Connect water outdoor heating in apartment buildings to centralized highways is prohibited. As a result of the equipment, the pressure will fall in all riser and the temperature may not be enough to the upper floors.

It is allowed to connect to the central network only in private homes, but this option is not perfect, as you have to wait for the moment of supplying heating. Moreover, due to regular breakdowns of communications, the risk remains without heating is quite large. Accordingly, the most rational option for the installation of warm water floors is either a private house or individual heating in a high-rise building.

Why need heat insulation

According to the rules of the installation of warm water floors, the obligatory stage of the work is to lay the insulation under the pipeline. Often, the masters are missing this out of sight, leading to significant heat loss.

So, why such material is needed:

  1. To create a heat transfer screen that does not allow to penetrate heat to the lower floors. Due to this ability, everything heat coming from the pipe is reflected and moved up to the room, but not in the inter-storey space and not in the next apartment.
  2. The substrate is necessary for uniform heat distribution over the entire surface. With its absence, the heating of the floor will not be entirely, but separate fragments where the pipe runs.
  3. Modern insulating mats are equipped with retainers, thanks to which the tubes are easily fixed and do not move when pouring them with a concrete tie. Also using such fixtors it is easy to observe the specified step between the turns.

Coefficient of thermal conductivity

If the carpet, linoleum and other materials that are not conducted on top of the inner heating system, then its effectiveness will be minimized. Therefore, it is worth considering the properties of materials and lay such that will not prevent heat transmission.

The coefficient of thermal conductivity is an indicator demonstrating heat transfer ability. What it is higher, the better the material will pass the waves emanating from the system. These include laminate, ceramic tiles, bulk floors, etc.

Subtleties of mounting

Installation of the warm floor of the water is made along the long-developed scheme when the pipeline is located in a concrete screed. Why is that? Everything is simple enough. First, heavy loads that pass through the pipes need reliable fastening and protection, and secondly, the air is an excellent heat insulator, and therefore, if the pipes are in contact with the air masses, then there is no sense from such a heating system.

  1. First you need to clean and remove the floor surface to one level. After that, it should be checked if there are height differences. If they do not exceed a height of 10 mm, you can start the installation of warm water floors.

If the difference exceeds 10 mm, it is necessary to use a self-leveling mixture frozen literally for 3-5 hours. But the traditional sandy cement mixture will be well quality. For checking rectinity, a construction level is used.

  1. The next stage is the installation of a waterproofing film that allows you to protect the coolant from the effects of moisture. It is desirable that it was a foil coating. After that, on the perimeter of the wall floors, the damper tape on the height of the warm floor is fixed.

  1. Further laying of the insulation, the thickness of which depends solely on your preferences. On top of the insulation, a layer of vapor insulation material is placed.
  2. Reinforcement. To do this, it is necessary to buy a reinforcement grid with 18-20 cm cells, which will allow the pipeline to be paved without any problems. This stage can be skipped if mats with retainers are used for isolation.
  3. Laying the pipeline. First you need to connect the pipe to the output of the collector installation for feeding. If the internal system is the only source of heating, then they are stacked with a small step, the value of which does not exceed 20 cm. When this floor heating system is an additional source of comfort, it is allowed a more squeezed laying step - up to 35 cm. Fastening pipes to the grid is carried out Through special clips. The pipeline can expand a little during heating, therefore it does not need to fix it hard.

Each contour is laid in a whole piece, without resorting to additional connections. Such connecting elements increase the risk of various leaks.

  1. Check systems for performance and reliability. The trial launch of water heat is carried out with an increase in pressure to about 0.3 MPa per hour, the water temperature should remain unchanged.
  2. After successfully passed tests, under which leaks and defects were not found, you can start the pouring of the screed. Its maximum height should not exceed a mark of 70 mm, otherwise, heat emanating from the tubes will not be enough to overcome the thickness of the concrete mix.

If you doubt that you can independently carry out the installation of warm water floors, it is better to turn to professional craftsmen to help you realize the conceived.

Now you know what water warm floor, installation, video and photographic materials are presented in this publication.

Video: how to assemble a water warm floor with your own hands

Heating in the house is an integral engineering network. Of all possible floor heating systems, warm water heating uses the greatest demand, and this is despite the complexity of its installation. Thanks to the warm floor in the room, you can create a comfortable and cozy atmosphere. In this article, we will consider general recommendations on the installation of warm water floors.

As arranged

The warm water floor in the assembled form is a layered structure also known as "heating cake". Its thickness depends on several factors:

  • The thickness of the insulation used.
  • The thickness of the draft and finishing leveling screed.
  • The diameter of the heating circuit.

The device of outdoor heating includes a boiler, a submersion assembly, a collector, heating circuits and other auxiliary equipment.

Views

There are 3 types of warm floor systems:

  1. Concrete . Heating contours are poured with a concrete tie, which in addition to the protective and leveling function performs the role of heat accumulation.
  2. Nastyl . Mostly, this system is implemented in wooden houses on lags. These are all those cases where it is impossible to equip the concrete screed or the overall weight of the screed will not endure overlap. Also, this technique is used in panel houses, where the slabs are unable to withstand heavy loads.
  3. Wooden . Such a system is used in the same place, where both the flooring, only with one difference: the heating contours are mounted between lags under the flooring, which is stacked on top of the lag.

The flooring and the wooden heating system can be the main only in the case when the room and the whole house is well insulated. That is, common heat loss should not exceed 40 W / m 2. Otherwise, when the heating is disconnected, the room will be very quickly cooling. In the case of a concrete screed, everything is different, the screed itself is a heat battery, so a comfortable temperature will be maintained for some time in the room. Thus, the floor or wooden system with poor insulation can only serve as an additional heating to the main radiator system.

Tart of warm floor

Under the cake meant all layers included in the design of outdoor heating. Depending on the selected system, its composition may change slightly.

Concrete system cake

Warm concrete cake thickness may vary. Below is a cake scheme with an indicative size of the thickness of each layer:

Consider the sequence of laying the heating cake of the concrete system:

  • Draft base. Screed poured on the plate or soil. In the latter case, sand and crushed stone with a total thickness of up to 60 mm must be attacked and trambed.
  • Waterproofing. It is necessary if groundwater is locked nearby.
  • Heat insulator. The main task is to eliminate the bridge of cold and heat leakage. For example, it is possible to use polystyrene foam with a thickness of 20-115 mm with a density of 30-40 kg / m 3. Especially the thickness of the insulation should be big, if under the floor there is a unhepal basement or soil. If it is decided to use special mats (made from insulation) with bugs, then it is important to consider that their thickness is 30 mm. To give the heat insulating layer the necessary thickness, additionally, the polystyrene foam is stacked under the mats.
  • Polyethylene film. Located two layers. The film thickness is at least 150 μm.
  • Reinforcement grid. It is necessary to give a high strength screed in cases where its thickness will exceed 60 mm and high load is expected on the base. For example, the diameter of the rods of the mesh can be from 3 to 5 mm, and the size of the cells of 100 × 100 or 150 × 150 mm.
  • Trumpet. Pipe laying step is 100-300 mm. The pipe is fixed to the reinforcing grid with special plastic clamps. Where the compensation seam will be equipped, the corrugations are worn on the pipes.
  • Finish concrete tie.
  • Substrate.Under laminate, parquet or other facing material.
  • Facing.

Pie of the flooring system

The feature of this method is that after the end of the installation, the flooring system is immediately ready for operation.

The cake of the flooring system consists of such components:

  • Chernovaya Pol.
  • Mats with bobies. They are without insulation. In this case, the thermal insulator is purchased additionally. The total thickness can be from 30 to 70 mm. Existing buses will allow reliably to fix the pipes.
  • Trumpet. Its installation is carried out in a special aluminum plate. It is important to note that no pipe is suitable for the heating system. It should have a special coating that prevents creak.
  • GVL or other flooring.
  • Substrate.
  • Facing layer.

It is worth separately mentioning the layer that is located between the pipes and facing material. The type of substrate may differ, depending on the method of finishing. If you plan on the floor to lay ceramic tiles or linoleum, then a plate of moisture resistant drywall in two layers is placed on top of the pipe. However, after a while, drywall under the tile can be cooled, so you can consider alternative substrates: moisture-resistant plywood, glass-magnesium sheets or chipboard.

Pie wooden system

Consider 6 methods of laying a warm floor on wooden lags, which are implemented without a screed:

1st way.

50 × 150 mm boards are stacked on the wooden floor with a pitch of 600 mm. Between the lags, mineral wool is 100 mm thick. The heating pipes are unloaded from above. In the appropriate places in the lags, holes for the passage of the pipe are performed. The plywood and finishing material are put on top of the lag. The minus of this technique is that a airbag is formed between plywood and the pipe. This adversely affects the thermal conductivity.

2nd way.

Between the installed lags, the thermal insulation layer of polystyrene foam, mineral wool, etc. is applied. A chipboard, osprement or plywood is mounted on top. After cutting plates from chipboard with rounded corners. They will later form a heating circuit. The resulting plates are screwed to the already existing base with a step larger than the pipe diameter by 4 mm. Next is the foil as a reflective layer. The heating tube is mounted on top. Finally, the surface is closed with laminate. This method is not suitable for parquet, since the base is quite moving.

3rd way.

This method is quite laborious. There is also a heat insulator between lags. After the board is taken, equal to the pipeline. In one corner, the grooves along the entire boards for laying the pipe. Initially, the foil is hardened in it, and after the pipe. Then the facing material is mounted.

4th way.

In this case, special aluminum plates with grooves for laying pipes are used. They are attached to lags. But in this case, on top of the plates it is recommended to lay a tight material, for example, a chipboard to prevent pushing. And only after that the finish finish is placed.

5th way.

Falsefol is mounted between lags. Between the beams are laid out the thermal insulation layer. On top there are sheets with bobbies in one level with the top of the lag. In places intersection of lagows, there are small grooves, and a special corrugation is put on the pipe. This is important, since due to linear expansion, the pipe can be thrown about the tree. The substrate and finishing material is stacked on top.

6th way.

This method is one of the simple. Pipes are placed directly into the insulation, namely in polystyrene. The space between the upper part of the lag and the pipe can be pumped by plaster, which will act as a heat battery. However, you can fall asleep and clean dry sand.

Video: Wooden Cake Production

Where you can install

The floor heating system can be mounted in different rooms. However, in each individual case it is important to take into account some features.

  • In the apartment. In urban apartments, which uses a centralized heating system, mount a warm water floor prohibited. Modern new buildings already have separate risers and exits in each apartment to implement such heating. On the other hand, some at their own risk are introducing a similar system in their apartments. For this, they even developed a number of schemes due to which the connection to the central heating system is carried out. However, this causes a number of difficulties. The floor level increases noticeably. It may be a problem in low ceilings. In addition, there is a risk of flooding neighbors. Therefore, all materials used should be reliable and high quality. If the house has a panel overlap, it may not withstand an additional load, so many are resorted to alternative heating - electrical. Connection from the central system requires significantly reduced the temperature of the coolant. In the heating system, on average, the coolant has a temperature of + 60 ° C. For outdoor heating, it is too much, since it is usually enough + 30 ° C. If you want to receive an official installation permit, then you should contact public utilities and solve questions at a personal level.
  • In a private house. As for private houses, here the situation is much easier. Installation is the easiest way at the construction stage of the house, or rather, before the fill of the screed. An important requirement is the arrangement of high-quality hydro and thermal insulation. Also, the heating cake should include a special reflective material. If you do not fulfill these requirements, there will be essential heat loss. A mixing unit is equipped in a private house, an additional circulation pump is set, which will evenly distribute heat energy throughout the floor. However, with all the advantages, it is important to take into account the disadvantages of this solution. After the manufacture of outdoor heating and fill the finish screed, the heating cannot be commissioned on average for 4 weeks. Although plasticizers are added to the screed for quick drying, it should still dry by naturally. This minus is insignificant and temporary.

  • In the garage. It should be engaged in the arrangement of the garage at the stage of its construction. In the ready-made garage, fulfill these works will be problematic and at the same time expensive. The main condition for the floor in the garage is the ability to withstand high loads. The average weight of the passenger car is 3.5 tons. Given this, the screed must be made of durable concrete. Moreover, after the fill of the concrete screed, it is impossible to turn on the heating. If suddenly the heating system will fail, it will be problematic to correct the problem, in the worst case, all coverage in the garage will have to completely dismantle. After eliminating leakage, the floor covering is re-mounted.
  • Bathroom. Bathroom, this is the place of constant accumulation of moisture. For this reason, the presence of such heating will be an excellent solution to prevent the formation of dampness, mold and fungus. To improve heating, it is necessary to raise the floor level by an average of 110-130 mm.

Payment

First of all, it should be solved, there will be a warm floor main or additional to radiator heating. It is important to take into account the nature of the floor covering. Ceramic tile is distinguished by a high thermal conductivity coefficient. As for the tree, this indicator is significantly lower. Therefore, the power of the selected heating system will depend on the type of coating.

In addition, the calculation is taken into account and the configuration of the heated room. One heating circuit should not exceed 120 meters. After that, possible heat loss are determined, which are calculated based on the following:

  • what material built house (blocks, wood, brick, etc.).
  • glazing type (double-glazed windows or profile).
  • average air temperature in your area.
  • are there additional sources of heat.

Video: Calculations of outdoor heating

Video: Calculation of the temperature of the warm floor

Design

The key link of the outdoor heating system is pipes. The length of the contour directly depends on the diameter of the pipe. The following data are known:

  • Pipe Ø16 mm - up to 90 m.
  • Pipe Ø17 mm - up to 100 m.
  • Pipe Ø20 mm - up to 120 mm.

The diameter of the pipe is larger, the less hydraulic resistance in it. If the room has a small area, then one contour is usually enough. However, if with a pipe diameter of 20 mm on the entire area of \u200b\u200bone room, 120 m is not enough, it is better not to add length, but to make 2 contours. It is better that their length is the same with a difference of up to 10 m.

An important role is played by the Pipe laying step, which can be 15, 20, 25 and 30 cm. If we are talking about large rooms, such as a gym, then the step can be in the range of 35, 40 or 45 cm. However, near the big windows It is recommended to make 10 cm.

Consider in the table separate zones:

These figures recommended. The selection of this or that step also depends on the pipe used. If this is a metal-plastic, then bend it without damaging the step with a small radius is extremely difficult. Therefore, if the scheme of styling a snake, then the perfect step is 15-20 cm.

If the area of \u200b\u200bheated room is from 50 m 2 and more, then the recommended pipe diameter is 16 mm. Even with a well warmed house, it is recommended that the pipe pitch is not more than 15 cm with a pipe Ø16 mm. The thicker the pipe, the big expenses are expected. This will especially affect the purchase of fittings and other materials of the larger diameter. The project should be with a pipe Ø16 mm.

In some cases, the pipes Ø20 mm are used. However, such costs are often unreasonable. After all, the volume of water in the system is significantly increasing, for heating which will require more thermal energy. Plus to all, bending the similar diameter is difficult.

When designing, it is important to take into account the following nuances:

  • First, install partitions, and then determine the number of contours. In one room there should be one contour.
  • The collector must be in the middle at home. If this is not possible, the problem of the difference between the length of the contours is solved by installing flow meters. Due to this, the coolant flow will be uniform.
  • If you want to install two collectors, then each should go a separate pump.
  • The overlap between the first and second floor is necessarily insulated. It is necessary to not warm the overlap itself.

The process of designing the warm floor is complex and responsible. Therefore, many use the services of specialists or special programs.

Laying circuits heated

There are several pipe laying schemes:

  • Snake.
  • Snail.
  • Combined.

Each of them has its own technical features that consider further:

  1. Snake . This scheme has several obvious drawbacks. When entering the room, the temperature of the coolant and the floor is high. The further, the floor is colder. This is explained by the fact that the coolest coolant is returned through the return. When installing such a scheme, special skills are needed. If metal plastic is used, then the installation step is often made 20 cm and more, because Bend the pipe to a smaller angle is difficult. However, a step can be reduced to 10 cm, but at the edges it is necessary to make small rings, which is a time-consuming process. Often, such a laying scheme is used when it is necessary to align adjacent contours zones. Also, such a method of laying pipes Suppose if the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is very small, up to 6 m 2.
  2. Snail . Its principle is that, in the first place, the outline is paced around the perimeter of the room with a gradual narrowing to the center. Back the contour returns to the starting point. In this case, if you planned a step between a pipe 20 cm, then the contour is placed in a step of 40 cm. On reverse the tube is placed between the already laid and forms a step 20 cm. This laying scheme is one of the effective. This is explained by the uniform distribution of thermal energy throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Moreover, it is possible to strengthen the zones near the outer wall or large windows to reduce the step distance. For such a scheme, there are practically no restrictions on the form and size of the premises.
  3. Combined . Here it is implied to combine the two above-mentioned pipe styling systems. For example, one part of the room can be lined with a snake, and the other is snail. There is also a function of combining water outdoor heating with electric. However, in this case, electrical heating will serve as an additional. This is especially effective in the early autumn and late spring, when the water heating is not reasonable.

Video: Layout hinges of the heating circuit

Insulation

Heat insulation must be high quality and safe for others during operation. The selected heat insulator must comply with such requirements:

  • Fire resistance.
  • Low thermal conductivity.
  • Moisture resistance.
  • Strength.

Therefore, choosing the insulation, it is important to take into account its technical characteristics. Below is several types of insulation, which are successfully used in heating cake.

Polystyrene foam

If you have a concrete screed, then expanded polystyrene is the perfect option. It happens two types:

  1. Smooth.
  2. With bobbs.

The second option greatly simplifies and speeds up the process of laying pipes. Also, polystyrene foam is divided into 2 types:

  1. Conventional foam.
  2. Extruded polystyrene foam.

If you compare heat engineering properties, then the extruded polystyrene foam is higher.

Bung

This material in all parameters is suitable option. Among its positive properties can be allocated:

  • With sharp temperature drops, the cork does not change in volume.
  • Environmental.
  • Under the weight of the concrete screed is practically not deformed.
  • Although the material has a small thickness, it is characterized by high-quality thermal insulation.

However, the explicit minus of this insulation is the price. Its cost is higher than other materials almost 3 times.

Penophol

Penofol or foamed polyethylene is often used when mounting a warm floor. It is represented in the form of a rolled foil material with a thickness of 3 to 10 mm. For the convenience of laying pipes, a markup is applied to the foil surface. If you live on the first floor and under you the soil or unheated basement, then this insulation will not be enough. It is necessary to combine with expanded polystyrene.

It is better to choose a foam with a metallized surface, only not from aluminum. This coating is not interacting with a negative medium of a liquid solution, which is capable of corrupting a conventional foil.

Mineral Wat and Eco

Collector

There are several types of collectors that are used during installation work:

  1. Collector with exits for Euroconuses. One of the simple type of collector. It is a pipe having internal and external threads to connect heating contours. However, to introduce it into a warm floor system, you will have to buy a large number of parts for the full configuration.
  2. Collector with outputs for connecting contours and adjustment valves. Often these are Chinese collectors who are sold in stores. They have one explicit drawback - after a while, from under the handles, water can start leak. This is explained by the low quality of the coolant. They can be repaired, it is enough to replace the rubber gasket. Such collectors are not intended to complete with additional regulatory automation. They will be ideal for homes with a small area, where the contours have the same length.
  3. There is also a collector for connecting metal-plastic pipes. It has adjustment cranes and fittings. Such valves can be equipped with a servo, whose work will be regulated by the thermostat installed in the room. Fittings themselves are also known as Euroconuses, which consist of 3 details: Euroconus, crimping ring and a cape nut. Also, the Euroconus has a sealing ring.
  4. In cases where the length of the contours is different, and manually adjust the adjustment is not possible, it is recommended to purchase a collector with flow meters and servo sockets. On some collectors, they are covered with blue hats. Due to this, you can regulate the temperature of the coolant in each separate circuit. However, you can combine - buy a collector for feeding with flow meters, and the return - with conventional valves for manual adjustment.

As for the mixing unit, it is necessary in its set:

  • Safety valve. It gives a signal to mix the coolant at high temperatures.
  • Circulation pump. Thanks to this device, the system is heating the room evenly.
  • Bypass. Prevents overload.
  • Trigger valves and air.

Special attention should be paid to the special valve, which is two-way and three-way. Each of them has its own differences and use goals.

Two-way valve . In its set, it has a thermal head with moisture sensor. If necessary, the supply of hot water overlaps. As a result, water in automatic mode is mixed. Mainly, such valves are introduced into the heating system, where the area of \u200b\u200bthe residential area does not exceed 200 m 2.

Three-way valve . The supplied valve defines two indicators at once: balancing bypass crane and bandwidth characteristics. It occurs in mixing hot and cooled heat carrier. Often, the three-way valves are equipped with a servo drive controlled by thermostatic and meteocontrollers. The mixing process is carried out due to the presence of a special damper inside the valve, which adjusts the fluid supply. A similar valve is used in warm-aluminum systems with a large number of contours.

Also, the collector and the mixing unit is equipped with street temperature sensors. They allow you to adjust the temperature of the coolant, pushing away from the temperature of the street. Although this adjustment can be performed independently, the presence of such sensors allows you to adjust the optimum temperature.

Installation of a warm floor

The installation process consists of several consecutive steps. Acquaintance and compliance with technology will allow you to independently produce all installation work.

Waterproofing and installation of damping tape

First of all preparatory work. For this, the old screed is completely removed. If the difference in the room is more than 10 mm horizontally, then it should be leveled. To do this, you can pour a draft self-leveling screed with a thin layer.

The next stage of preparation is the installation of a damper tape. It is necessary to compensate for the linear expansion of the screed when it is heated. If you do not use it, then a short time, the screed may crack. The damper tape is fixed around the perimeter of the entire room to the wall using the self-adhesive layer or tape.

Laying insulation

The next step is the installation of the insulation. The selection of insulation and its installation method depends on the type of room and the use of heating. If you have the first floor and there is no heated basement, then insulation should be impressive. The layer of claymps is poured and the polystyrene foam is used with a thickness of up to 100 mm.

As for the laying method of the insulation, then when using traffic jam or foam, everything is simple enough. These are leafy materials that glue with a scotch. If polystyrene systems are used with grooves, their assembly is also not related to special difficulties. Between itself, the insulation is joined with special grooves.

However, it is not always possible to use similar insulation. Often the most affordable - foam. In this case, its laying should be made of jack. It is desirable to glue it with each other, for example, by mounting foam. Upon completion of insulation, the entire area should be covered with insulation.

Consider the sequence of floor insulation using polystyrene:

  • Step 1. The first sheet is placed in the angle of the room so that both sides fit tightly to the corners of the walls.
  • Step 2.. Further, the sheet is put on the jack, one to one is tightly adjusted.
  • Step 3.. If you need to get around the angle, column or other obstacle, then polystyrene is easily cut by a sharp knife.
  • Step 4.. The next row needs to be laid with a slight offset, exactly half of the sheet.

If you planned warming in two layers, then the second layer of the insulation should be seized across with respect to the first. Due to this joint, they will not coincide with each other. Increasing a special film with marking for mounting pipes.

If the heating is installed on the wooden floor, the mineral wool is used as the insulation. She stacked between lags. When installing width, mats should be a little wider distance between lags. This will allow you to tightly lay thermal insulation and prevent the appearance of cold bridges.

Video: Preparation of the base, laying of thermal insulation and reinforcing mesh

Installation of pipes

When the insulation is made, the installation time of the warming circuit comes. In this process, it is important to accurately calculate the laying step, the contour length and the number of outputs on the collector. However, before this it is worth discussing the issue of choosing a heating tube.

How to choose a pipe

There are several types of pipes used for warm water floors, each of them is in different price categories. The cost of a pipe depends on the manufacturer.

Trumpet

Features

Approximate / average price per meter

Connect pipes with special fittings, forming a solid and hermetic compound. However, when installing them easily damage them. Consider water temperature up to 120 ° C. They are sold by bays, which greatly simplifies the installation and delivery process.

When heated, the metal plastic tube is not subjected to deformation. The pipe is flexible and retains the shape after bending. Little weight simplifies the process of assembly work.

These are expensive pipes that are used extremely rare. They have the lowest level of bending radius. The service life is 50 years. Operating pressure from 400 atm.

Laying pipe

At the stage of laying pipes without assistant, it is not necessary to do. The pipe on the warm floor is sold by bays, so one will be unwound, and the second to hold the bay. The laying method depends on the system you chose. If the choice fell on special mats with bugs, then the work is greatly simplified, the main thing is to observe the installation step. If a film with marking is laid on top of the insulation, special clips are applied to fastening the pipe. How to be if there is no such markup? It can be done independently. To do this, use a folding cord with paint.

When installing pipes, it is unacceptable to be interrupted. One contour should consist of one whole piece of pipe. Staying begins with the farthest zones. Very convenient when thermal insulation is made in two layers. In the first layer of insulation, transit pipes and the necessary engineering communications can be placed.

The process of installing the pipe consists of several stages:

Stage 1. - Cut off the bay 10-15 m. One thing is put on the fitting and connect it to the installed collector.

Stage 2. - The pipe is connected on the reservoir to the feed.

Stage 3. - on the markup, the pipe is fixed to the heat-bracket insulation. If the plot is direct, then enough space 40 cm. On the corners of the interval is reduced to 15 cm. When flexing, be extremely careful not to break the pipe.

Stage 4. - In the course of laying, make sure that the pipe is not in voltage. It must be free. Otherwise, the voltage will constantly pull out the brackets.

Stage 5. - If the bracket flew out, then retreat from the previous place for 5-10 cm and re-fix the pipe.

Stage 6. - When you offset the entire contour, the pipe is supplied back to the collector and with the fitting connects to the return.

For proper balancing, it is important to have information on the length of each contour. Marks can be made on the collector itself, for example, assign a digit to each contour or the name of the room where it is sent. Relevant notes can be made on a piece of paper. Do not keep everything in my head. Plot of pipes near the collector should be insulated, otherwise there will be strong floor overheating. Moreover, it is recommended to insulate the pipe through one, i.e. The insulation is put on the flow, and the reverse is left untouched. Thus, the return will not be heated from the feed.

Several methods of fastening pipes can be distinguished:

1 method : tightening clamps.

2 method : Soft steel wire.

3 method : Special Stapler and Locks.

4 method : locking truck.

5 method : mats with bugs.

6 Method : Aluminum distribution plate.

Video: Laying of a warm floor

Reinforcement

Often, the first layer of reinforcement is placed on top of the insulation. In this case, the mount will be carried out using nylon fumes. Separate parts of the mesh interconnected by knitting wire. The size of the reinforcing mesh cell depends on the selected step you. The grid must have Ø5 mm. In addition, a layer of reinforcement is also stacked on top of the pipes. This is explained by the fact that the mesh underlying the bottom will not give any effect.

Pressing

Under the crimping it means a process that allows you to make sure that all mounting connections are sealed, and the pipes do not have any defects. This process is performed immediately before the fill of the screed.

Cooking can be made in two methods:

  1. Water.
  2. Air.

Pressing water

All contours must be completely opened and connected to the collector. The system is filled through the squeeze, pressure is created up to 2.8 atm., At least 2 atm. At the same time, the coolant must first be up to the mixing unit.

  • All caps are closed on the return on, they often have blue.
  • After serving the crane opens.
  • In the process of filling the pipes with water, a hissing sound can be observed, it is air leaving through the crane of Maevsky or automatic air vent.
  • Now opens a crane on the return. So, it will be possible to lower the air through the drain tap on the reverse collector.
  • The filled outline closes on the return and the next one opens.
  • Finally, the valve before the feed collector is closed, and the crane in front of the reverse collector opens.

Fill in the system with water and having lowered the air, it is necessary to inspect the design to detect leaks.

Pressing air

At the time of the heap processing process, the automatic air vent is removed and the plug is twisted on its place. To work, a compressor or a car pump with a pressure gauge is required. Pressure during therapy air should be three times more worker. Therefore, create air pressure up to 5 atm.

Such pressure should be created only in the system of the warm floor, and not in the track connecting the boiler and the collector. It is explained by the fact that some boilers are calculated only for pressure up to 3 atm. Therefore, this area is checked later separately.

So, when the system is injected up to 4 atm., Leave the cranes closed for a day. Pressure should not fall. Although the minimum deviation will be, since when downloading the compressor slightly heats up the air, which will be cooled later. To make sure the tightness, in all the joints you can walk with soap solution.

Screed

When it comes to a finishing screed, it is important to provide several important conventions:

  1. From the system it is impossible to drop water, and hold it under a given pressure of 1.5 atm.
  2. Include heating is prohibited.
  3. Make temperature seams.

Temperature seam completely eliminates the probability of cracking of the screed. Dampfer tape is used as a temperature seam. The area of \u200b\u200bthe room can be divided into 20 m 2 (this is necessary if the area of \u200b\u200bone room significantly exceeds this indicator). The pipe, in the plot, where it passes through the temperature seam, be sure to strengthen the corrugation.

To fill the screed, it is recommended to use special additives that will improve the technical characteristics of the screed. In addition, a plasticizer is added to the concrete that prevents the screed cracking when it is cooled / heated.

Composition composition:

  • Concrete and screening - 1: 6.
  • Concrete, sand and crushed stone - 1: 4: 3.5.

Plasticizer and other additives are flooded by mixing concrete mixture. The proportion is determined based on the manufacturer's instructions outlined on the label.

For the residential premises, the thickness of the finishing screed is 50 mm, for factory premises up to 100 mm. At the same time, it is important to consider the following property of a screed - heat accumulation. The screed is thinner, the less time it will keep warm. If it is too thick, then it will take more thermal energy to warm it. Therefore, the optimal screed thickness is 70-80 mm.

Before the fill, make sure that there is a pressure of 1.5-2 atm in the warm floor system. Include heating in the process of solidification of concrete is prohibited.

The process of making a screed for beacons is as follows:

  1. Metal lighthouses are exhibited by level.
  2. Lighthouses are installed not on the pipes. You can lay out a thick solution in the form of a holloch, which are installed beacons.
  3. Smoothed concrete rule. At the same time, it is important to make sure that air bubbles completely left the body of the screed.
  4. The next day, when concrete has not yet grabbed, it is necessary to remove beacons, clean these places and pour them with a solution.

Video: Fill screed

Commissioning

Enter the operating temperature should be gradually. First set the temperature indicator up to 25 ° C. After every day, raise it at 5 ° C. If antifreeze is used as a coolant, the increase is carried out at 5 ° C, and if water, then at once 10 ° C. This is an important requirement because you can avoid sharp and uneven overheating, as a result, the screed cracks.

So, commissioning is performed as follows:

  • Make sure that all cranes on the collector are open and coolant circulation is carried out in all circuits.
  • The thermal head of the mixing valve is installed on the minimum temperature indicator.
  • The circulation pump is included with the boiler turned off, since the pump on the boiler will be interfered.
  • From time to time it will be necessary to burst the accumulated air.
  • With the help of flow meters, check the circulation of the coolant for all circuits.
  • Next, you can enable heating.

Video: Filling system

Prices for water warm floor

The cost of work, depending on your place of residence, can change slightly. In average prices correspond to reality. Prices can be viewed in the table below.