The combination of natural wood and epoxy resin is a fairly interesting and original solution in terms of interior design. The light source is the LED lamp, which is attached to the bottom of the frame - at the same time it performs the function of the stand.

Desktop LED lamp made of natural wood and epoxy resin, without a drop of exaggeration can be called an exclusive decorative product, which will take a worthy place in the home collection of unique things. And make such a masterpiece with your own hands for everyone.

Main preparatory work

First of all, sideways are collecting a rectangular box with dimensions of 33x20 cm, which will be used as a form for pouring epoxy resin. In the process of assembling the frame, it is important not only to withstand all the initial dimensions, but also ensure that the internal angles are located strictly at 90 degrees.

The box is installed on a flat surface, we are tightened by clamps, and all the slots are definitely close in a sealant (in order to save time, it is recommended to use thermocons). Then you can proceed to the most responsible part of the work - the pouring of the epoxy resin.

Manufacture of LED Epoxy Lamp

First pour a small layer of black epoxy. We are waiting until the base hardens, shed a thin layer of a transparent epoxy resin and put a piece of the board. At the same time, the side of the board on which the bark remained should look inside. Then decorate the artistic "composition" with green moss and fill with the transparent epoxy to the top. Total thickness - 3 cm.

So, let's in order, step by step:

1. At the beginning I made a hole in the middle of the workpiece. For this, the milling mill is used (which is not necessary) and drill. In any case, without work, the eyes do not do here. Drill can make auxiliary holes with simple and feathene bore, after which it is necessary to hollow out the middle of the eyes. Depth should be at least the height of the bulb you want to use.

2. At the second stage, the middle burned. Little gasoline (or any combustible mixture), lighter and ready. This is the easiest stage.

3. Next, I poured the prepared hole with an epoxy resin, pre-inserting a form with a diameter of about 70-80 mm. It can be any plastic smooth dimensional form. You can also use PVC pipes, pre-tightening one end with a film and taking aluminum scotch.

4. At the fourth stage, we comply with everything too much, again, with the help of the chisels, until the epoxy layer appears.

5. The final processing depends on your imagination and creativity. I grinded so that the small faces remained, painted with black paint on a tree, grinding again and covered with a thin layer of epoxy resin. Variations can be any.

As a result, it remains only to make a hole under the cartridge and wire, insert into the outlet, turn on and enjoy your work

Today everything. Beautiful creativity!

If there are questions, write, I will be glad to help!

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LED tree lamp and epoxy resin

October 11, 2018
Specialization: Master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, finishing of facades, installation of electricians, plumbing and heating - for all types of work I can give detailed consultation.

I want to tell about the interesting project of the LED lamp. Its unique design is suggested by nature itself, I only added the electrical part and gave a geometric shape.

I choose wood

In my workshop, I was sleeping the cherries, from which I cut off the electric jigsaw uneven edge. I will use it as the main material for lamp design. The bark of the tree cleaned the brush to remove the dust and the dirt appeared.

Stabilizing wood

The edge of the tree was a little fired and to avoid the deformation of the wood due to the natural processes of rotting, I treat it with a hardener Minwax. The composition deeply penetrates into the wood, and the special resin incoming in it enhances and binds the destroyed wood fibers.

Introduce the composition of the painting brush, by paying the cherry crust to the maximum of attention so that it does not fall off in the process of further processing.

Align the surface

With the help of a manual milling and roller salazzo, align the surface of the cherry spike.

I make a form for fill

To create a form for holding the epoxy resin around the heating of wood, make it from pieces of MDF. To do this, cut the cut of 4 sidewalls and bottom. Lubricate the inner part of them with a thin layer of wax to facilitate the release after the pouring epoxy resin. Then collect the housing with an adhesive gun, placing the wood inside the tree.

Bulk epoxy resin

Epoxy resin needed to pour in 3 layers to prevent overheating. Initially, he knew the resin in the cup, then shifted into the form. The construction hairdryer warmed the resin to remove air bubbles. Again poured the next portion of the resin, and warmed up.

I remove casting

After several days, the resin is hardened, disassemble the shape and remove the formed panel.

Stringing the surface

On the planer I remove the extra epoxy resin.

Grinding surface

Using the grinding machine and elaborate circles of different graininess (from 60 to 220), treat the facial surface of the future lamp.

Manual grinding

!
Romanian sculptor and designer Eduard Lotoma founded his original design studio to decorate the houses of a modern man. The studio collections are inspired by nature in general and marine landscapes in particular. Eduard Lotoma makes every sculpture manually. As a result, objects are really the only one in their kind. They enchant their representation of the initial relationship between the hardness of the breed and water fluidity. The designer combines sculptural elements with artistic features, blurring the face between art and function.

"Eduard Lokot currently lives and works in Timisoare, Romania.
It creates unique sculptures using epoxy resin, among other materials, has already been relatively long.

Some of its works are sold at 1100 euros.

Let us try and we make a lamp similar to one of the works of the designer.
As a basis, the author took an oak bar of 65 by 65 mm.

Then you need to decide on what part of the lamp will be epoxy, and which will remain in its original form (well, almost priority).

To solve this dilemma, the master used the rule of harmonious proportion or as it is also called the Rule of the Golden section. This rule at which most of which relates to less than the length of the entire item to the most part. If these are numbers, this ratio is approximately 1.62 and in order not to break the brain for long calculations, the author decided to leave the wooden part with a length of 162 mm, and epoxy 100 mm.

If you split these two plots simply straight line it will be trite and not commexed. But if you turn on the fantasy, you can come up with something like that.

Thus, the tree bar does not have enough strength I think to anyone, therefore the author uses the so-called method of brittle drilling.

The essence of the method is that the author of homemakes using screws (also used ordinary) drills on a tree drill the bar at a different angle of drills of various diameters as it is necessary. In this case, the worse it turns out - the better, he says. Actually this is the method of brinking drilling. He also warns anyone who decides to repeat this method that drills are sufficient at high speed into the wood. It delivers certain inconveniences. The author recommends using a screwdriver, not a drill on sufficiently low revs.

After that, there is enough chisels and Wu la - the bar is divided into 2 parts.

True, such beauty looks like the dogs looked. But in other ways it is impossible to achieve such curly separation of oak (with a fairly thick and very durable) bar.

Then the author with a ruler and pencil notes the center on both sides and drills the thin drill as on both sides. This is necessary for accuracy. The resulting hole will be guides for drill a large diameter.

The boundary between the light source and the resin will be divided by the lens from the old lens. The diameter of the lens in the rim is 22 mm. To install it, you need to drill a slight recess using the drill of the corresponding diameter.

From the reverse side, the author drills the workpiece with a real feathers monster. The diameter of the drill is as much as 45 mm and the drill is poorly blurring such a huge hole in the oak bar.

Then the author begins experimentally by selecting the concentration of the dye for the resin choosing an interesting shade.

He is also faded by a lens.

Next you need to prepare a form for fill. The author cut off the size of the bar several pieces of acrylic and combined them with each other to the economic ribbon. It is necessary for waterproofing at the joints.

This is the peculiar formwork.

To control the fill process, the author makes a transparent screen. Making a kind of screen he decided from transparent plastic cap from children's paints.

While everyone is trying to get rid of small bubbles formed in the process of mixing and fill the resin. To get a transparent fill, the author decides to bring the entire mixture on the full program and, on the contrary, get a bunch of bubbles. Therefore, violating instructions, he began to actively mix the fill.

It's time to pour.

But all the bubbles began to leave resin. But the most unpleasant thing is that the form began to leak. Even a bunch of rubber band did not help, so it was decided to divide the fill and shape and take the resin to the balcony. The Author impregnated with a resin left heavily. The plan was justified. The resin launched in the cold. The form was sick and became completely hermetic. Moreover, in thick resin, the bubbles have no longer pop up. Simply mixed, it became possible to keep them there forever.

After 12 hours, the resin froze and became solid as a stone.

Now it is necessary to separate the pieces of acrylic and transparent plastic.

The author decided to add an element of grace and a unique feature, a small highlight so to speak.
It remains to pour the resulting pattern of the resin.

It's time to start the grinding process.
For grinding the workpiece, the author uses a grinding machine. He began grinding a ribbon with grain 60, then 150, 240 and 320. completed her grain with grain 500 and 1000.

This is how the surface looks like after the grinding of 1000 grain.

Next Polishing. Using a felt circle with a special polishing paste for plastic, starts polishing.

After grinding in some recesses, the resin collapsed. It takes a small cosmetic repairs. For this, the usual quick-drying epoxy smog for repair from tube is suitable. It must be cut into the color of the fill and for 5 minutes the glue throughs.