Know what the timber is bond during the construction of the house. Fastening a bar to Brusa: fasteners, tools, recommendations. Construction of timber. Fastening technology: Soft method

Despite the presence of nails, screws, dowels and anchors, wooden elements can be copping with each other without their help. In this case, such a connection may be much more reliable and stronger. How to corner the timing?

First of all, this question must be worried about those who thought about. If we take into account that now this topic is at the peak of popularity, then it can be concluded that interested enough. It makes no sense to once again talk about the utility of natural materials and what positive qualities have wood. Let us turn immediately to the mounting options, especially since the reliability of the construction depends on this.

In various types of fastening of a bar to Brus, the spatial location of the details may be different.

Consider several of the most popular options:

1. Facial longitudinal. Most often they are used in cases where you need to increase the length of the existing log within one crown. With their help, you can prevent an increase in the gap between the details and remove the offset relative to the longitudinal axis.

2. Forest angular. Their task is to fasten the birch during the formation of the angles of the walls. The result is to prevent the possible displacement of walls and angles. A positive point is that the slots between the details are not expanding even with time.

Brous fastening methods for brus
Docking timber

3. Vental. It provides for the connection of two elements located in adjacent layers (for example, at the top and bottom). It helps to avoid the movement of the horizontal, their rotation and displacement under the influence of gravity rendered to the upper layers.

4. T-shaped type. Most often, this type of compound is used to dock the outer walls with internal partitions and walls. Provides a fairly harsh mount capable of withstanding serious loads.

Choosing the appropriate type of installation, you must consider the minor moments that are important. This includes the professional level of the wizard and its skills, as well as the possibilities of the working tool. If at least something causes the slightest doubts, it can significantly affect the final result.

The listed types of fastening of a bar to Brus are implied by a large number of different ways of fastening and performing locks, so consider them in more detail.

Bruz connection
Corner Brous Box Connections

Reliable methods for fastening a bar when laying

To increase the strength of the connection, nails, pins, brackets, screws, spikes, milled locks, wooden brazed are used. It is important not to forget that in places of contact of metal elements with a tree, the likelihood of corrosion is increased. This reduces the reliability of the compounds and leads to a premature damage of the tree. Given this, you should additionally use special protective compounds, or completely abandon the metal in favor of the tree.

In view of the foregoing, it is advisable to apply brazen. They are made of wood solid rocks, such as beech, ash or oak. In addition to the strength of the brazen, they must have a low humidity, otherwise they can disappear and weaken the connection.

Another similar way is to use plug-in spikes and veins, which are inserted along the horizontal surface of the log. Spike and appropriate grooves can be achieved at the factory. With the help of such a lock, it is possible to install all the elements very quickly, and the compounds will be very durable.

If you are dealing with straight and oblique locks, you should additionally be used in places of contact. It is best to make a hole in the middle of the castle.

The most problematic places are the angles. Here, the mounting of the bar to the bruss requires maximum concentration and is very often an online stamp is performed. No less popular conjugation "in the paw" or "in the bowl". It requires special training and definite experience.

Our article will be useful on how to issue so that there is beautiful and cozy in the house.

Of course, construction from wood takes a large period of time. Its main often goes to prepare connections and an assembly of elements. It pleases that as a result of painstaking work you will get really high quality.

Increasing interest in the wooden house-building in our country, he gave rise to the need to inform the public about the methods and techniques used in the construction of wooden structures. Many are interested in how to mount the timber among themselves, how to mount it to the wall, as well as what the advantages of those or other technologies and materials.

We will try to answer these questions.

Brous connections

First of all, it should be said that the traditions of construction from wood around the world are incredibly rich and diverse, which is an obvious consequence of the vast experience accumulated by mankind in this industry of the craft. With the development of wooden construction, a huge number of masters, schools, traditions and methods of processing details appeared, so there is simply an unimaginable diversity of approaches to working with wood.

Moreover, each master contributes its adjustments and improvements, improving and complicating generally accepted methods of conjugation, fasteners and locks. It is impossible to consider all these techniques within the framework of one article, so we will limit ourselves only to the main and relevant methods of fixing details in the construction of wooden walls.

So, articulations are different in the spatial location of parts relative to each other:

Crown. This pairing between the details located in the adjacent layers or the wedges of the wall (from above or below), which prevent log displacements in the horizontal plane, their rotation and movement under the action of the gravity of the upper layers;
Facial longitudinal. Used by increasing the log length within one crown and prevent displacement of parts relative to the longitudinal axis, as well as an increase in the gap between them;
Facial angular artists. Serve for fastening logs when forming corners between the walls. Prevent displacements of logs and walls relative to each other, as well as turns and changes in the degree of the angle installed in the project. Prevent the expansion of the slots between the details in the corners of the building, the occurrence of drafts and the cold bridges;
T-shaped connections. There are in the docking of the inner walls and partitions with the external walls of the box at home or among themselves. Serve for a reliable hard attachment of the inner wall and prevent its displacements and dust;
Various pairing between wooden and stone structureswhich show how to mount the bar to the wall.

Important!
When considering certain methods of fixation, the possibilities of the modern tool and the level of your skill when working with it, as well as the feasibility and complexity of each method.
This is especially important if you intend to work with your own hands.

In each of the listed types of fixation of the wooden parts, there are many ways of fastenings and various techniques for the execution of locks and bowls, so they should be considered more.

Grief compounds

The wintical compound is a fastening between the parts along their longitudinal horizontal plane, which they fall on each other when the walls are erected. This mount must hold the details from displacements along this plane, rotations and drops under the action of gravity and internal stresses arising in the design.

For the implementation of the grief method, such fastening techniques are used:

Using metal pins and nails;
With self-tapping screws;
With the help of a bracket;
Using wooden brazing;
Using plug-in spikes and knaps;
With the help of special milling locks (in the profiled tree).

When using metal fastening means, it should be remembered that in places of wood contact and increased metal corrosion arises, which leads to premature damage of nails or pins, as well as to damage the tree in contact places. This is the easiest, the fastest, cheapest and unreliable way of fastening wooden parts.

Bowl of all used metal pins 6 mm thick or special nails without a hat. The main load will be applied at an angle to the axis of the fastening element, so the presence of a hat is optional, especially since it will interfere with the upper log sitting.

Before mounting the attachment, the log is drilled on the depth, a slightly large depth of the pin or nail. Sometimes the details are drilled through, but these are irrelevant subtleties, the main task is to fix the product in the horizontal plane.

Staples and self-tapping screws can be considered as auxiliary or temporal means of fixing the elements of the wall, as they are short-lived and unreliable. In addition, the brackets spoil the appearance of the design.

Go ahead. Wooden brazening is the most common and tested way. Everything is simple here: instead of a metal pin or nail, we use a wooden peg of a round, multifaceted or square cross section (more often round), which is clogged into a pre-prepared hole in the log, and the next part is planted on the protruding part.

It must be said that the method is quite simple and infertility, but at the same time very reliable, durable and durable. For the manufacture uses of solid rocks: oak, beech, ash.

Important!
The brace must consist of durable wood, having humidity lower than those of the details of the house, as well as perpendicular to the fibers of the timber's own fibers.

If you work yourself and do not have an impressive experience in a carpentry craft, this method can be considered a good compromise between the complexity, the complexity and reliability of the attachment. Especially since it is easy to find and buy in a construction store or get complete with the material.

Also, for the groves, plug-in spikes and keys are used, which are inserted into specially prepared grooves located along the horizontal surfaces of the logs. Today, it is more common to compounds using a spike and a groove, painted in the product at the factory under profiling. It is typical for the glued timber and sets for the construction of houses from a tree, since the presence of such a lock greatly simplifies and speeds up the grazing assembly.

Facial longitudinal nodes

If you do not know how to bore the timber with each other with longitudinal buildings, we present to your attention such a way as a word. Also, this method is called a straight or oblique lock, pairing "in the paw", "in the floor of a tree", etc.

In addition, there are such ways:

Fastening with a longitudinal spike on the knaps;
Fixation with longitudinal indigenous spike;
Combined nodes.

Important!
In the case of straight and oblique locks, the details should be additionally fixed with wooden bellows in the contact places of surfaces.
To do this, in the middle of the castle make two holes and insert pegs in them.

When working with a glued profiled bar, the longitudinal extension is not required, as the parts are selected for a specific project and have the necessary length. Despite the fact that the price of this material is high, a sufficient number of such advantages makes it very popular.

Corner articulations

Corners - the most responsible sections of the design of a wooden house. Therefore, fasteners pay special attention.

There are many ways to implement such a pairing, like an angle:

Robust jack with a straight lock or "in the floor of a tree";
Disappointing with a skew castle or "in paw";
Fastening on a native spike;
Fixation of jack on the plug-in key;
Bowls with a residue one-sided, bilateral and four-sided.

Important!
It is practiced fastening the jack with nails or plates, but we do not recommend this method in mind of its unreliability and diligence.

The most common and reliable fastening method is the use of indigenous spike. This is an ordinary straight or trapezoid spike and a groove, with which the parts are connected.

Methods on the spike and swords, in general, are not particularly different. Methods "in the paw" and "in the floor of a tree" are also similar to each other according to the characteristics, the connection "in the paw" is somewhat more reliable.

Before embarking on the construction of a house or a bath from a bar with their own hands, you need to study theoretical part of the question. In particular, assimilate the rules for the proper fastening of a wooden bar. Further, more, it is necessary to consolidate your knowledge in practice. Having received certain skills, you can start building a church. And the experience will come during the work.

Bruck Basin: Tool

Bruz connection is not the most difficult and hard lesson. But it follows. This will require:

The measurement tool (tape measure, corner of the joiner, level) and a pencil, with their help the markup of the forming fastening surfaces.

Saw, perhaps manual electronics

or a chain with an electric drive

but it is better to use the mechanism with a gasoline engine;

Hammer, drill and a scheme.

Methods of the corner connection of the bar

Now that everything is ready, we are determined in what cases, you must resort to the connection of the bar. Two moments:

when device corners in the future litter;
with an insufficient length of the acquired timber.

And the methods of such attachment are the most diverse. The selection of this or that method of fastening depends on the specific situation and the decision of the wizard. The docking of the bar is largely different from the connection of log structures. Our time of modern technologies, Dedovsky receptions of lumber fastening are constantly being improved. The most popular two ways to fix: with the residue, and without.

Consider both options.

Connection of an angle with the residue "in the edge" or "in the bowl"

This method is to use lock grooves. They can be single, two-, and quadruplends.

Quadrilateral groove

One-sided groove is obtained as a result of perpendicular laid from the upper side of the bar. The width that must correspond to the cross section of the bar.

Bilateral groove

The discharge method of the bilateral groove involves the breakage of the bar from two opposite sides of the upper and lower. The amount of the depth of the propyl is equal to the fourth part of the part of the perpendicular cross section. This method gives a high-quality connection, but requires high qualifications of the Contractor.

Quadrilateral groove

The name of the four-sided groove, says himself. In this case, the propuls are carried out from all sides. This method gives reliable fixation, log cabin, manufactured in this way incredibly durable. The presence of grooves simplify the installation of the crowns, they are collected, as the designer of Lego. Perform the attachment to this method only by professionals.

Connections without residue

Jack

The most elementary in difficulty is the method of fixing the bruse embarkation. It is in the docking of the bar to each other and fastening with studded metal plates further fixation using self-tapping screws. \\ In this case, the strength and density of such a compound depends on the flawlessness of the surfaces of the bar, and they are rarely perfectly even, and from the qualified artist. Careful fit of the ends of the combined is so time consuming that even unable to professionals. Therefore, the use of such a method is unlikely to be appropriate in the construction of a residential building, but it will be useful in the construction of utility rooms, where the tightness of the angles is not important.

For residential buildings, it is better to use other, more reliable methods for fastening the bar.

Corner connections with a key

Connection on the key

The strength of such a bond is achieved by the use of a special wedge of solid wood, called swords.
The installation of such a part in the crack groove eliminates the shifts in the joints.
Please note that the compound strength is ensured by a variety of wedge, which can be longitudinal, transverse and oblique. Spit wedge is composed in manufacturing, but properly should be given, it guarantees the maximum strength and thermal conductivity of the angle.

Castle "In the indigenous spike"

Such a connection is considered the most effective in terms of conservation of heat. The people will definite it as a "warm angle". " Therefore, it is considered the most popular during the construction of houses from a bar.

The technological process is the manufacture of a groove in one of the conjugated brows, and in another spike, similar dimensions and their further combination.
In the manufacture of the house laying the insulation, which can be linen or jute canvas and felt, is required.
In this case, the main condition of the minimum heat loss is the dense alignment of the elements of the connection.
Additionally, to increase the strength of the construction of the house, it is necessary to alternate in the angular wedges of the spikes with the grooves and fasten them with round wooden brazers.
When applied in bonds of berthes, cries and kurdyshukov, it is necessary to leave between the elements of the castle of the vatical slots, they will serve as a compensator when shrinking at home.

Fastening "in Polterev"

This is a rather simple way of writing corners. It is carried out by transversely cut half of the timing of timber, which was the name of the method. Before starting the assembly at points near the angular connections, a hole for the installation of a bell or a key is drilled. The brace must cover several crown crowns at once.

Basin "in the paw"

It is similar to the mount "in Poltera" but the cut is performed at an angle, which contributes to the preservation of heat.

Connection "Lastochkin Tail"

The most reliable, durable and practically no heat loss is the T-shaped word "Lastochkin Tail". In fact, it is the indigenous spike is not a rectangular, trapezoidal form. The grooves are performed in a similar way. This is a rather time-consuming and expensive way to bonding a bar.

In addition to the traditional swallow tail, a number of other T-shaped bruss connections are distinguished:

lock groove on the plug-in spike;
symmetric trapezoid spike, or "frying pan";
rectangular spike, or "semi-fertile";
asymmetric trapezoid spike, or "deaf frying pan";
direct groove on the indigenous spike.

Methods of longitudinal connection

In construction, sometimes it takes a bar longer than standard size, which is 6 meters. Therefore, there is a need for longitudinal splicing of timber. In these cases, familiar ways "in Polterev", "Spit" and "on the key" are applied. However, the most durable and reliable method of the longitudinal connection is considered oblique lock. He is more difficult and difficult in manufacturing, but it is worth it.

Metal fasteners for timber

Bruz fasteners are special elements made of alloyed alloys used to connect wooden structures. They can be both domestic and foreign production. Among the sets of fasteners can be highlighted complex parts: supports, corners, coupling and washers, and simple elements: anchor, screws, nails and brackets.

Sophisticated fastener

The support is a fastening perforated part, made from a steel profile with a thickness of 2 mm and subjected to an anti-corrosion layer of zinc. It is a corner-like design and serves to mount the beam overlap to the wall of the house. Support by type of construction can be divided into fasteners of an open and closed type. Connect it with screw screws, self-drawing or nails. Supports for all timber sizes are available.

Couplings with washers is a nut M20 with a stud welded to a metal plate. The main purpose is to compensate for the shrinkage of the bar.

Corners are connected, produced from sheet metal thickness from 2 mm and galvanized. The angular fastener is produced in a perforated embodiment of 120 to 175 mm long. The choice of products is carried out depending on the weight of the structure.

Simple fasteners

Begroes can be metallic and wooden. The material for from production use fittings. They are used to fasten the crowns from the bar. Metal brazers have high strength and is able to prevent any deformation of the timber. However, in view of the corrugated surface, which can disrupt the structure of a wooden array, and the incompatibility of metal and wood is more expedient to use wooden brazed.

They are made, as a rule, from birch or other solid wood. The strength of the wooden elements is almost not inferior to the reliability of metal products, while ideal for home from a bar, preventing its deformation. It is made from the wood round and square sections.

Spring knot "Power"

The product is a bolt with a spring and wood thread, made of high-strength anti-corrosion alloy. The mounting of the bar is such an element as the "force" node, ensures the strength and stability of the compound, and the absence of deformation and twist. In addition, the product additionally loads the wints themselves, which prevents the formation of cracks and gaps during the shrinkage. Recommended installation of fasteners per ram for at least 4 pieces.

Nails, metal brackets

Nails, as well as metal brackets, are a good fastener, but not for a bar. The use of them to connect the timber erroneously. Nails are corrosion and come into disrepair, while the spray wood. Based on these shortcomings, it should be refused to use nails and metal brackets.

Since with the help of nails, any design is bonded firmly, they are better to connect the items, and not narrow the walls.

Wooden type - has such properties, how to absorb and give moisture, so the connection of the bar must be movable.

And you can watch the video fastening logs by brave

Tools and materials for fastening a log cabin to a ribbon base
Fixing technology to the foundation
- Schemes for fastening timber to the base of construction
Fastening a bar to the pile base

As the basis of constructions, among which the bath, barn or hozblock is often used frame frame.

Know how to attach a timber to the foundation is necessary when building baths, sheds and hozblocks. So where we need a frame of wood.

In order to build such buildings, you should know how to produce a bar for the base.

The first stage will be the installation of a reliable bandage foundation, to which the runneroid is to be placed in a couple of layers, the surface of the cement mortar. Then you can start mounting to the bottom of the wooden timber building. It is impossible to attach to the mounting of the bar and racks if the construction frame was not pre-assembled and set as a week or more.

Due to the process of fastening wooden walls to the foundation - this is a rather difficult task, the first row of timber is used to facilitate the process. The so-called lower strapping must be made of a thick bar.

Tools and materials for fastening a log cabin to a ribbon base

antiseptic;
level;
anchor bolts;
cement;
sand;
ruberoid;
anchor heel.

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Fixing technology to the foundation

Picture 1. Fastening bars to the foundation with anchor bolts.

There are various methods of fixing the cut and racks, but it is preferable to mount the elements using anchor bolts. The timber must be laid on Scarlet, in advance of the rubberoid. The first row of a log is laid on a pre-stailed runner, which should not remain open for a long time, as it may be damaged by external influences. The timber should be put on the woodlock strictly horizontally, which is verified by the level. Any irregularities that exceed 1 cm must be eliminated with a solution. Fasteners of the lower bars among themselves should be performed using the sample in the corners of the frame. There is a couple of excellent sampling methods, among them: sample in the paw and in Polterev.

Mount the timber to the foundation should be used with nuts and anchor studs, the last of which should be concreted in the foundation. It is recommended under the nuts to put wide washers, which will allow you to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe contact of the tree with the nut. If the walls of the construction are not long, you can limit the 3 anchor bolts on the bar. Using the level, it is mandatory to check all the diagonals and corners of the frame.

After fastening the bars to the base, you can mount the vertical framework. Do not forget that before starting work, the bar must dry.

Before starting the installation of the first crowns and racks, it is recommended to check what the foundation width and its surface is even. After you can start laying the bars, which must first be impregnated with an antiseptic. Laying timber and racks on the foundation is made in parallel with the insertion of the anchor bolts into the holes drilled in the bar. The holes in the bar need to be made by 2 mm larger the diameter of the anchor bolts. Fig. 1 illustrates the fastening scheme of the first row of a log.

After completing the mounting of the bar to the base of the construction, you can begin to mount the vertical racks that make up the frame.

The bar before the start of installation should be succeeded, which will help prevent its deformation during operation. The frame will turn out to be more rigid and resistant to wind and different loads, if it is reinforced to be diagonally using special connections - discolutions. Be sure to make sure that all verticals and diagonals correspond to the size, which will help to eliminate the irregularities of the frame.

It will help to reduce costs when building a frame home reuse of material. So, the boards used to temporarily fix the frame, you can cut into the desired segments, arranged constant drives from them. Temporary struts can be made not from new boards, but using suitable formwork parts. The secondary use of the material can be planned in advance: this will allow you to give up the purchase of a part of sawn timber.

Store material should be protected from moisture and pollution. It is not recommended to burn sawn waste, which were impregnated with antiseptic, they may be harmful to health.

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Schemes for fastening timber to the base of construction

The figure shows the most reliable mounting schemes between the bars, which are used in the construction of wooden buildings.

Construction rules and norms suggest two timing of timing to the foundation.

The first scheme assumes rigid fixation, which is based on the collapsible or unintellular connection of the bar and the frame to the foundation. If it is secured to fix the log cabin, then its stillness will be provided with a mechanical fastening on the basis of the foundation bolts or clamps.

The second scheme involving the fastening of a church of the foundation, the invoice, which is based on the laying of the bar, not connected to the painter. Fastening in this case does not imply the fixedness of the bar, but under the weight of the construction of the lower crown or the timber remains stationary.

In the issue of reliability, the first installation scheme wins, as it guarantees that the log house or the frame is rigidly fastened to the foundation. However, in some cases, construction organizations and private developers use precisely the second fastening option, since it is simpler in implementation. And the significant mass of the walls can ensure the devices of the lower bar (crown), which is not worse than the fixing assembly of the first scheme.

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Fastening a bar to the pile base

The mounting of a bar to the pile base should be started with cutting blanks for the framework, using a bar, which has a square cross section.

If a pile or pile-screw foundation was mounted for the construction, then the rigid fixation of the bar and racks should be implemented somewhat differently. Plii submersible piles should be installed. Their side plates should be perforated under the fastening screw or hairpin.

The beam should be put in the groove of the bracket, which has a p-shaped form, then you can fix it into the groove on the screws or the stud. Another option, with which you can make the mount, provides for additional perforation of the beam, which should be drilled through. However, this fastening of a special effect is not able to give: screws, which is the usual self-tapping screws, hold the beam to the same extent reliably as the studs.

Fastening a bar to a weld to be started with cutting blanks for woodwork, using a bar, which has a square cross section. Next, you can attach the assholes to the pile, for which it is necessary to put a bar on the pile line, laying under it a couple of angular brackets. Staples should be fitted with pile welding. After the timber, you can remove and, applying the corner brackets as a marker, navigate the rest of the heads.

In the installed pile tenders, it is necessary to put the ribbon ribberoid, which will protect the wood from contact with metal elements.

After the stakes, the heads of the frame should be attached to the spikes, which should be shown on the spikes in the corner pairing by the method in the paw or in the bowl.

You can fix the beams with screws that should be skipped into the bracket of the headband through perforation. Such a scheme will allow the first row of the frame as the frame as beams or the lower crowns, which make up the log house. As a result, you can increase the overall rate of building assembly, fixing the bars, racks and other elements.

If you decide to fix the timber, without fixing it, you should mount the beams on the pile ledge, which has a T-shape. At the same time, fasten to the foundation can be fixed to the foundation using standard methods: in the paw or in the bowl.

The walls of the house, which was built on this technology, possess much easier weight, if compared with those houses that were made from traditional materials. That is why there is no need to mount a powerful foundation. Moreover, the shrinkage of construction from the bar will be minimal. Such buildings are much more economical in the construction process and further exploitation than ordinary. And their qualitative characteristics are not only no worse, but also far exceed on a number of indicators, among which, for example, heat resistance. Framework to the foundation can be attached to the foundation without attracting heavy machinery, and the work does not imply significant labor costs.

The foundation is the basis of the entire structure. To choose from its type it is worth a particularly responsible, having previously studied the soil on which construction will occur. So, for example, if the soil moves the pile type, it can use a small base for fluffy soils. And for the construction of a country house or household buildings, an excellent option is the base built of asbestos pipes or brick columns.
But no matter what kind of foundation was not given preference, the frame walls are erected according to one principle. For such work, the lower strapping will be required, which serves as a peculiar interlayer between the material of the foundation and the material of the walls.
An excellent variant of the bottom strapping is a wooden bar. As practice shows, it is most used for these appointments. That is why many have a question how to put the timber on the foundation. Especially if the construction of the house is performed for the first time. Brous strapping is the most affordable way to move from the base to the creation of a frame.

Terms of construction work

The mounting of the bar to the foundation must comply with the regulatory requirements of the construction of the house. With proper and durable fixation, it is possible to avoid the formation of cracks on the wall in the future, and even, in some cases, the destruction of the country house. For the successful performance of the work and a long period of operation of the material, you should use certain rules of the advice of professional builders who will always prompt how to put the material:

before putting the first crown, it is necessary to process it with a special antiseptic agent. Such a substance can be purchased in a construction store. Treatment of wood from a bar prevents rotting and extend the operational period of the material. Fix the timber to the foundation is necessary after preprocessing - this is one of the main construction requirements;
the first crown of timber should be resolved on the waterproofing material. The interlayer from the regulatory will become a reliable obstacle to moisture penetration. Fastening a church to "naked" foundation is categorically prohibited. Such a transition from the bar will make the house much resistant to precipitation;
the timber is necessary to firmly fix the base, since the foundation is constantly subjected to hermetic changes. For example, the adverse effects of groundwater, soil wet by precipitation, its drying leads to changes in the foundation itself. And with this nothing can be done. This is the law of nature. But, especially firmly fixing the bar, you can avoid strain walls and the formation of cracks.

Laying timber belongs to simple types of work that each owner of the country area can perform.

Fixation of the first row to the tape foundation

You can firmly fix the wooden bar to the tape base using anchor bolts. The advantage of this method of attachment is the possibility of attachment directly at the construction site. Such laying from the timber belongs to the simplest, but at the same time, reliable work.
To perform such fixation, it is necessary to lay a bar on a predetermined foundation covered with waterproofing. In places of attachment, it is necessary to do holes in wood with a drill and a special crown, remove wood and already with a perforator make a hole in the foundation. The last step will be the installation of anchor bolt to the finished hole and its tightening with a precashet wrench.

Durable mounting of a bar for a foundation using anchor bolts provides not only proven fixation, but also allows if necessary to raise the entire design over the foundation using jacks. Laying the first crown should be performed especially exactly. Therefore, it is recommended to align the foundation before fastening the wooden bar. Also, laying the material is recommended to constantly monitor the surface evenness.
The use of anchor bolts allows you to quickly, simply and very tightly fix the wooden bar on the basis of the country house or the economic structure. You can attach the first row of a wooden bar independently, not even having experience and special equipment. The fixation of the anchor bolts will not take too much time, and the fixed material will be fixed especially reliably.

Fixation of a wooden bar to a screw pupil

Fix the timber to pile is also not difficult. To attach a wooden bar to a screw foundation with their own hands necessary:

connect two wooden bars among themselves. You can simply bore them using a special metal lining: one side of the product is mounted to one bruus, the other side is to another bruus;
fix a wooden frame from a bar on a prepared vehicle platform. You can do this with the help of conventional screws;
check fixation for strength. Installation of wooden material is ready, and the construction itself is ready for a new stamp of the construction. Many are interested in whether to check strength. The answer is unequivocal - it is necessary necessary, as in the future this part will be responsible for the strength of the whole design.

Methods of fastening timber

In addition to the anchor bolts, wooden strapping from the bar can be consolidated with their own hands using brazen. This installation is laid at the time of filling the foundation:

while pouring the foundation it is worth laying the vertical rod in the horizontal position to which the wooden timber will be mounted. Pre-prepared pin cut up to 2/3 of timing thickness. The metal element should not pass through the timber;
according to the markup and location of metal pins, it is necessary to drill a hole in a wooden strapping;
wooden timber on metal pins. The installed bar must be fixed very tight, so it is first recommended to determine the diameter of the opening.

The laid material will not allow the product horizontally to shift. With this fixation, you can perform work firmly and reliably. The strapping material is an integral part of construction. And to do such work should also be done, as well as other, observing the requirements of the construction industry.

Wooden timber - practical building material. Low price, low heat loss, low weight and simplicity of installation of a house from a bar make this material very sought-after. However, fasten the timber on the foundation is not so simple, because the tree is not glued to the concrete and do not weld to the metal. In this article we will tell about how the timber is attached to various foundations, which pay attention and what errors are allowed.

Types of foundations for a house from a bar

Waterproofing

The lower bar, as well as the wooden woodscreen, it is necessary to protectively protect against water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creativity or other than effective (and most often smelling) substances. If there is no possibility to treat Scarlet or lower bar with heavy fractions of oils, it is necessary to use less effective substances, and between the foundation or iron / concrete woodwork and the bar need to be laid at least 2 layers of the rubberoid. This material that falls out when the temperature drops. After all, in the morning the air temperature is growing, and the temperature of the foundation or woodwork remains unchanged. If you are using Wooden Scarlet, the waterproofing must be laid both under it and above it. It will protect the wall from dampness and prevents the appearance of mold and rot.

What kind of attachment is better

Choosing a fastening method, consider the following factors:

humidity of timber;
climatic conditions;
seismic activity;
the strength of the most frequent winds.

For fastening wet (over 16%), only the shrinkage compensators must be used to the wooden wrought-up. All other fastening methods are ineffective.

After all, the bar is high and especially natural humidity, gives a very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. For fastening a bar of high or natural moisture to a wooden painter, it is necessary to use the analogue of the shrinkage compensator, only made not from the screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same way can be used when installing a bar on threaded studs. Instead of nut and washers, you need to use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same method of fastening should be used in those regions where strong and long rains go in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use the lower ram with humidity not higher than 12%, to process it with the most efficient hydraulic protection and set to the maximum rigid mount (ordinary and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire design. The same approach must be applied in those regions where the wind speed often exceeds 20 meters per second. The neglect of the rigid fastening in the seismic or windy regions will lead to the fact that the fastening under the influence of external factors will break out and the house will begin to swing. Disranged by shrinkage compensators when working with a natural and high humidity bar, as well as in regions with frequent and strong seasonal rains, will lead to the appearance of gaps between the bustling crown and the foundation or painter.

To connect wooden parts, you can use the inconspicuous number of connections. The names and classification of carpentry-carpentine compounds, as a rule, differ significantly depending on the country, region and even schools »Woodworking. The skill is that the accuracy of execution ensures a proper compound, which is able to withstand the loads intended for it.

Initial information

Connection categories

All connections (in a carpentry case they are called mating) Wooden parts on the application area can be divided into three categories (foreign classification option):

drawers;
frame (frame);
for stripping / splicing.

Drawing connections are used, for example, in the manufacture of drawers and cabinets, frames are used in window frames and doors, and the rallying / splicing serves to obtain parts of the size enlarged in the width / length.

Many compounds can be used in different categories, for example, butt compounds are used in all three categories.

Preparation of material

Even planed sawn timber may need some preparation.

Cut the material with a width and thickness for further planing. Do not cut length long.
Choose the best in the quality of the ramp - the front side. Plane it over the entire length. Check the calibration line.
After final alignment, make a pencil face face.
Plane facial - clean - edge. Check the calibration ruler, as well as the carbon relative to the front side. Planing align the victim. Put the label of the clean edge.
Reysmis make the markup of the required thickness on all edges of the part of the part. Plane to this risk. Check the calibration ruler.
Repeat the operation for the width.
Now make the markup of the length and the actual connections. Place from the front side and clean edge.

Marking of sawn timber

When marking sawn timber be careful. Make sufficient allowances on the width of propils, the thickness of planing and performing connections.

All countdowns are from the front side and a clean edge to which put the appropriate labels. In the designs of the frames and cabinets, these marks should look inside to improve the accuracy of the manufacture. To facilitate the sorting and assembly, numb the items with their manufacture on the front side so that, for example, designate that the side 1 is connected to the end 1.

When you mark the same details, carefully align them and make marking immediately on all billets. This will provide identity of markup. With the markup of the profile elements, consider that the "right" and "left" details can be.

Button connections

These are the simplest of joinery and carpent connections. They can enter all three categories of connections.

Assembly

The join compound can be strengthened with nails clogged at an angle. Drive nails by the rotary.

Rover exactly the ends of two parts and connect them. Secure nails or screws. Before you can apply glue to the details to enhance fixation. The junction compounds in frame structures can be enhanced with a steel pad or a wavy key with an outdoor side or a wooden bar fixed from the inside.

Nuggelny / Drainage

Wooden brazen - today they are increasingly referred to as the wrenches - can be used to enhance the connection. These plug-in round spikes increase the shift strength (slice), and due to the glue, it is more reliable to fix the assembly. Compounds with molecules (ducts) can be used as frame connections (furniture), boxes (cabinets) or for rallying / splicing (panels).

Assembly of the naulic compound

1. Carefully cut down all the components, accurately observing the dimensions. State the position of the crossbar on the front side and the pure edge of the rack.

2. Make the center lines for vapor at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end should be at least half of the thickness of the material. For a wide crossbar, more than two copiers may be required.

Make the center lines for brazers on the end of the crossbar and by the coal, transfer them to the rack.

3. Put the rack and crossbar face up. By the coal, transfer the center lines on the rack. Number and mark all the connections if the racks and the crossbar are more than one pair.

4. Transfer this markup to the pure edge of the rack and ends of the crossbar.

5. From the front side by flights to read risk in the center of the material intersecting the markup lines. So the centers of the holes under the brazen will be marked.

Rayysmus will read the center of centers by crossing the signing of the markup, which will show the centers of the holes under the brazen.

6. Electrode with a spiral drill or a hand drill with a perovy drill drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a centerpiece and covers. The hole across the fibers should have a depth of about 2.5 diameters of the heater, and the hole in the end is a depth equal to about z diameters. For each hole, make a 2 mm allowance, for this distance the nape should not reach the bottom.

7. Zenkovka take extra fibers from the top of the holes. It will also facilitate the installation of the brand and create a glue space that fixes the connection.

Begging

The brake must have a longitudinal groove (now standard brazenings are made with longitudinal ribs), according to which the glue of glue during the assembly of the connection will be removed. If the bracele does not have a groove, then flatly compatriate it on one side, which will give the same result. At the ends there must be a chamfer to facilitate the assembly and prevent damage to the brazening holes. And here, if the brazers do not have a chamfer, make it a file or stabbing the edges of their ends.

Use of centrifies for marking

Follow and drill crossbars. Insert special native centerpoints into the holes for aging. Align the crossbar on the rack markup and squeeze the items together. Towns of Centrikov will make markers on the rack. Drill holes on them. Alternatively, you can make a template from a wooden bar, drill holes in it, fix the template to the parts and through the holes in it to drill holes under the brazen.

Using the conductor for the magnifying

The metal conductor for the onloading compounds significantly facilitates the markup and drilling of the holes under bent. In the box connections, the conductor can be used on the ends, but it will not act on the plastic panels.

conductor for Nigempics

1. Follow the center lines on the front side of the material in which there must be holes under bent. Select the appropriate guide bushing for drill and paste it into the conductor.

2. Align the centering labels from the side of the conductor and fix the movable support of the guide bush.

3. Install the conductor to the part. Align the centering knife through the center line of the hole under the heel. Tighten.

4. Set the drill to the drilling depth limiter in the desired location.

Sharp

To obtain a wider wooden part, it is possible to connect two parts to the edge of the same thickness using braziers. Fold two boards with wide parties together, accurately align their ends and clamp this pair into vice. On the clean edge, spend perpendicular lines, denoting the center lines of each heatele. In the middle of the edge of each boards, raismus risks each previously marked center line. Point of intersection will be centers of holes under bent.

Naked compound is neat and durable.

Intercourse

The connection with a word, insertion or in the grooves is called angular or median connections when the end of one part is attached to the reservoir and another part. It is based on the butt joint with a cut under the end made in the plastic. Used in frame (houses of houses) or boxes (cabinets) connections.

Types of compounds with wrinkle / insert

The main types of compounds with a word are a Taving Womb in the dwarf / semi-seamless (often this term is replaced by the term "wise / woof"), which looks like a butt compound, but more stronger, angle wrist (angular connection) in a quarter and an angular wrist in a dwarf / semi-beam. The angular wrist into the fold and the angular wrist in the fold with a dot / semi-seamstate are made in the same way, but the fold is done deeper - two thirds of the material are selected.

Flashing

1. Follow the groove on the facial material of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue lines on both edges.

2. Reyzymus stamp the groove depth between the markup lines on the edges. Depth usually make from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste part of the material.

3. C-shaped clamp securely secure the item. Silte the shoulders from the movement of the lines of markup to the desired depth. If the groove is wide, make additional rugs in the waste to simplify the selection of the material of the chisel.

Pill uses to line marking on the waste side, making intermediate propuls with a wide groove.

4. Working a chisel on both sides, remove the extra material and check the smoothness of the bottom. To align the bottom, you can use the soilbel.

A chisel remove the departure, working on both sides, and align the bottom of the groove.

5. Check the fit if the item is inserted too tightly, you may have to repel it. Check perpendicularity.

6. The connection with a word can be strengthened by one of the following methods or by their combination:

gluing and clamp before setting glue;
screwing screws across the outer detail;
nail feeding at an angle through the outdoor detail;
nail feeding via angle.

Unbound connection is strong enough

Connections in the groove and side crest

This is a combination of live words in a quarter and wrinkles in Falts. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and devices of slopes of window openings.

Connection execution

1. Takes make perpendicular longitudinal axes of both parts. On the same detail, mark the pad, measuring the thickness of the material. Continue marking on both edges and face.

2. Make the second end of the end, it should be at a distance of one-third of the material thickness. Continue on both edges.

3. Raysmoms, mark the depth of the groove (one third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the casual lines.

4. Hisching with a chuckle. SUPPLIATE PERSONS TO RISKS OF PLYSMUSS. Remove the winding of the chisel and check the alternation.

5. Reysmus with the same installation, mark the line on the back side and on the edges of the second part.

Advice:

Connections of the type of connection in the groove and side crest can be easily made using a milling and the corresponding guide device - either only for the groove, or for the groove, and for a fold. Recommendations for the proper work with the milling of the mill look at with. 35

If the comb is included in the groove too tight, steal the front (smooth) side of the ridge or stick with the skin.

6. From the front side by reysmus, make marking on the edges towards the end and in the very end. SUPPLIRATE ON THE LIMES OF PLASSUMES HANDLE WITH ELACE. Do not saw too deep, as it will weaken the connection.

7. Working a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Connections in hardwood

Connections in drapets are referred to frame connections that are used to connect parts to the layers or by edge. The compound is performed by selecting the same amount of material from each part, so that they are combined with each other.

Types of compounds in dragged

You can select six main types of connections in drapery: transverse, corner, virtual, corner on the Us, swallow tail and splicing.

Performing an angular connection in drapes

1. Align the ends of both parts. On the upper side of one of the parts, swipe the line perpendicular to the edges, retreating from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the bottom of the second part.

2. Set the flight on half the thickness of the parts and read the line on the ends and the edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the upper side of the same side of another detail.

3. Help the part in a vice at an angle of 45 ° (plastic vertically). Carefully peel along the fibers close to the raismus line from the waste side, while the saw will not be released on the diagonal. Turn the part and continue to carefully cut down, gradually lifting the saw handle until the saw will be on the punch line on both edges.

4. Remove the item from the vice and put on the ramp. Press it tightly to the tulage and clamp the clamp.

5. SUPPLIATE PUREAKER TO THE EARLY ENVIDED EARTED AND READ THE WASHING. All sorts of sampling align the chisel. Check out the accumulation of the cutout.

6. Repeat the process to the second part.

7. Check fitting the parts and, if necessary, spend the chisel. The compound must be rectangular, flush, without gaps and backlash.

8. The compound can be strengthened with nails, screws, glue.

Corner compounds on

The angular compounds on the FSA are made using the ends of the ends and hide the face fiber, and also aesthetically more correspond to the corner rotation of the decorative lining.

Types of angular compounds on

To perform the bevel of the ends in the corner connection on the order, under which the details are found, it is divided in half. In the traditional compound, this angle is 90 °, so each end is trimmed under 45 °, but the angle may be blunt, and sharp. In uneven angular compounds, parts with different widths are connected to the mustache.

Performing an angular connection on

1. Follow the length of the details, having in mind that it should be measured along the long side, since the SCOS will reduce the length inside the angle.

2. Decided with the length, mark the line under 45 ° - on the edge or on plain, depending on where the SCOS will be cut.

3. Move the markings on all parties to the part of all parties to the combination.

4. With manual cutting, use stubbobs and hacksaws with a church or a manual tracing saw. Press the item tightly to the back of the stub - if it moves, the SCOS will be uneven, and the connection is poorly fitted. If you see simply by hand, follow the process to not deviate from the markup lines on all sides of the part. Fantasy electroly saw, if you have it, make a very neat beep.

5. Attach two details to each other and check fit. It is possible to correct it by firing the spanking surface of the bevel. Firmly fix the item and work with a sharp plan, putting a small leaves of a knife.

6. The connection should be knocked down with nails through both parts. To do this, first put the details on the ramp and take into the outdoor side of the skeleton of the nails so that their tips appear to be slightly from the bevels.

Put nails in both parts, so that the tips are slightly out of the surface of the beam.

7. Apply glue and firmly squeeze the connection so that one piece is slightly overlapped - overlapped another. First score nails in the serving detail. Under the blows of the hammer when driving the nails, the part slightly moves. Surfaces should be aligned. Send the second side of the connection and climb the nail heats. Check rectangle.

First, hammer the nails into the protruding detail, and the impact of the hammer moves the connection to the desired position.

8. If a small gap is due to the irregularities of execution, bring the connection on both sides with a round rod screwdriver. It will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, it is necessary to redo the connection, or to close the clearance with putty.

9. To enhance the angular connection on the Us, it is possible to glue the corner of the wooden bar, if it is not visible. If the appearance is important, the connection can be made on a plug-in spike or fasten it with a veneer with a veneer. Inside flat connections, you can use brazen or lamellas (standard flat plug-in spikes).

Splicing on the Us and the connection with the clipping

Splicing on the mustache connects the ends of the parts located on one straight line, and the clip connection is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.

Splicing on Us.

When splitting on the unit, the part is connected by the same beams on the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.

Coupling

A clipping connection (with trimming, with a fit) is used when you need to connect two parts with a profile in the corner, for example, two plinths or cornices. If the part shifts in the process of its attachment, then the gap will be less noticeable than with an angular connection on the USS.

1. Secure the first plinth on site. Adjust to it a close second plinth located along the wall.

Secure the first plinth on the spot and press it with the second plinth, aligning it along the wall.

2. Spend on the profile surface of the fixed plinth with a small wooden bar with a pencil pressed to it. Pencil will leave on the placed plinth line of marking.

Browning with pressed to it with a pencil attached to the second plinth, spend on the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will be sliced.

3. Cut on the markup line. Check fit and regulate if necessary.

Complex profiles

Place the first plinth in place and, by placing the second plinth in the stub, make the SCOS on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the desired form. Cut on this line the jigsaw.

Connections in the eye

Connections in the eye are used when it is required to connect the intersecting parts located "on the edge" or in the corner, or in the median version (for example, the angle of the window binding or where the table's leg is connected to the crossbar).

Types of compounds in the eye

The most common types of compounds in the eye are an angular and taving (T-shaped). For strength, the compound must be glued, but it is possible to strengthen it with impudent.

Connection in the eye

1. Make markup as well as for, but divide the thickness of the material to three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both items. On one detail it will be necessary to choose the middle. This groove is called an eye. Both side parts of the material are removed on the second part, and the remaining average is called spike.

2. SUPPLIATE along the fibers up to the line of the coschchchch along the lines of marking from the waste. Hisching with a chucking cutlets, and get a spike.

3. Working on both sides, select the material from the eye / chisel / chisel for grooves or jigsaw.

4. Check fit and regulate the chisel if necessary. Apply glue on the surface of the connection. Check rectangle. C-shaped clamp Click the connection at the time of solidification of glue.

Connection spike in the nest

Connections with a spike in the socket, or simply spike connections, are used when two parts are connected by an angle or when intersection. This is probably the most durable of all frame connections in a joiner-carpentry, and it is used in the manufacture of doors, window bakes and furniture.

Types of joints spike in the nest

The two main types of thickening connections include the usual connection of spike to the socket and the connection of the stepped spike in the socket (consupported). Spike and nest are about two thirds of the width of the material. The expansion of the socket is made on the one side of the groove (semi-waste), and the step of the spike with its corresponding side is inserted into it. Camelight helps to warn turning the spike from the nest.

Normal connection spike in the nest

1. Determine the connection position on both parts and make marking on all sides of the material. Marking shows the width of crossing items. The spike will be on the end of the crossbar, and the nest will pass through the rack. The spike must have a small battery in length for further cleaner compound.

2. Select the chisels as close as possible in size to the third thickness of the material. Install the poker flights and mark the slot in the middle part of the rack between the previously applied markup lines. Work from the front side. If you wish, you can establish a solution of a rep to a third thickness of the material and work on both sides.

Z. In the same way, mark the spike on the end and both sides before the markup of the casuals on the crossbar.

4. Hold in the vice auxiliary support in the form of a wooden trim enough to make it possible to attach a rack to it, rotated "on the edge". Secure the rack on the support, placing the clamp next to the markup of the socket.

5. Cut the chisel the nest by making the allowance of approximately 3 mm from each of its end so as not to damage the edges when selecting a waste. Keep the chisel smoothly, keeping parallelism
Her edges plane rack. The first cut is strictly vertically, placing a sharpening of the middle of the socket. Repeat from the other end.

6. Make a few intermediates, holding a rock under a small angle and sharpening screws down. Select a departure by acting by the chisel as a lever. Divide on 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue about half of the thickness. Turn the item and work in the same way on the other side.

7. After removing the main part of the waste, shine the socket and cut the allowed allowance to the lines of markup on each side.

8. Slide along the fibers of the spike, leading a hacksaw with a trap on the marking line from the waste side, and cut the purses.

9. Check fit and regulate if necessary. Shippers should be carefully adjacent to the rack, the compound must be perpendicular and not to have a backlash.

10. To secure, you can insert wedges on both sides of the spike. The gap for this is done in the nest. Working the chisel from the outside of the nest, expand about two thirds of the depth with a 1: 8 slope. Wedges are made with the same bias.

11. Apply glue and firmly squeeze. Check rectangle. Apply glue to the wedges and tear them into place. Dispise the breakdown of spikes and remove the glue.

Other thickening connections

Sowing connections for window bakes and doors are somewhat different from the thickening connections in charge, although the technique of execution is the same. Inside the fold holds and / or the pad for glass or panel (panel). When connecting a joint in the socket to the part with the fold, the spike plane make on the same line with the edge of the fold. One of the crossbar shoulders are made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is shorter, so as not to brake Falts.

Thickening connections for parts with lining have a punch, made with a clutch to fit the lining profile. Alternatively, you can remove the lining from the edge of the socket and make the SCOS or the clutch in accordance with the response detail.
Other varieties of connections are spike in the nest:

Side spike - in the manufacture of doors.
Poveless beveling spike vapothemple (with a beveled step) - to hide the spike.
Ship virtuch (stoves of spikes from two sides) - for consistent details, such as lower strapping (bar) doors.

All these compounds can be end-to-end, and can be deaf when the Ship end will be visible on the reverse side of the rack. They can be strengthened with wedges or brazers.

Sharp

Finding a wide high-quality wood is becoming harder, and she is very expensive. In addition, such broad boards are susceptible to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes it difficult to work with them. To connect narrow boards on the edge into wide panels for tabletop or workbench caps, use rallying.

Preparation

Before you start directly, you must follow the following:

If possible, pick up the Radial sawing boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage deformations than tangential sawing lumber. If tangential saw boards are used, then put their sound side alternately in the same way.
Try not to allocate materials with different ways of sawing into one panel.
In no case do not glid the boards from different wood breeds, if they are not succeeded properly. They will give different shrinkage and crack.
If possible, place the boards with fibers in one direction.
Before rush, be sure to dorate the material in size.
Use only good quality glue.
If the wood is polished, pick up the texture or color.

Smooth foaming

1. Lay out all the plaques face up. To facilitate the subsequent assembly, mark the edge of a continuous pencil line conducted at the angle of the corner.

2. Stop smooth edges and check fit to the appropriate adjacent boards. Each time align ends or pencil lines.

3. Make sure there are no gaps and flatness of the entire surface. If squeeze the clearance of the clamp or sharpen it, the connection is subsequently cracking.

4. When planing of short parts, clamp two in vice through the front parties together and planing both edges at the same time. It will not have to withstand the rectangles of the edges, because when docking, they will mutually compensate for their possible slope.

5. Make preparation as for the junction, and apply glue. Compressing with the wipe, connect the two surfaces, squeezing over the glue and helping the surfaces as it were to "squeak" to each other.

Other weighing methods

Other compounds with rafting with different amplification are prepared in the same way. These include:

with molecuits (wrenches);
in groove and comb;
quarter.

Bonding and fixing by clamps

Bonding and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products lose strength.

Adhesives

Glue enhances the connection, fastening the items so that they cannot be easily separated. When working with adhesives, be sure to wear protective gloves and follow the safety instructions on the package. Clean the product from the excess adhesive before it is collapsed, because it can turn a knife Rubanka and clog abrasive skins.

PVA (polyvinyl acetate)

PVA glue is a versatile wood glue. In another wet state, it can be wrapped with a rag with water with water. It perfectly glues a loosely adjacent surface, does not require long-term fixation for setting and grabbed in about an hour. PVA gives a sufficiently strong connection and glued almost to any porous surface. It gives a permanent connection, but is not heat-resistant and moisture-resistant. Apply a brush, and with large surfaces, we water with water and apply a painted roller. Since PVA glue has a water base, then when grasping gives a shrinkage.

Contact glue

Contact glue gluits immediately after applying and connecting parts. Apply it on both surfaces and when glue becomes dry to the touch, connect them. It is used for layered plastic (laminate) or veneer to chipboard. Fixation is not required. It is believed to solvent. Contact glove flammable. Work with it in a well ventilated room to reduce the concentration of evaporation. It is not recommended for outdoor work, as it is not moisture-proof and heat-resistant.

Epoxy adhesive

Epoxy glue is the most durable of adhesives used in woodworking, and the most expensive. This is a two-component resin-based adhesive, it does not give a shrinkage when setting and softened when heated and not crawled under load. Water consists and gluits almost all materials such as porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics, for example, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass (organic glass). Suitable for outdoor work. In an independent form, it can be removed by a solvent.

Termoklay

The heat-melting flaw gluits almost everything, including many plastics. Usually sold in the form of adhesive sticks, which are inserted into a special electric gun for gluing. Apply glue, connect the surfaces and squeeze on the zo seconds. Fixation is not required. It is believed solvents.

Clamps for fixation

Clamps are a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but it usually takes the entire pair of varieties. Be sure to place a gasket from wood waste between the clamp and the product to avoid dents from the applied pressure.

Gluing and fixation technique

Before gluing, be sure to collect the product "dry" - without glue. Fix if necessary to check the connections and overall dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, placing parts in a convenient order. Follow the area glued and prepare clips with diluted sponges / stops at the desired distance.

Assembling Rama

Uniformly brush distribute glue to all glued surfaces and quickly assemble the product. Remove glue and fix the clips assembly. Uniform pressure squeeze the connections. Clips should be located perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.

Clamps place as close to the connection as close as possible. Check the parallelism of the crossbar and eliminate if necessary. Measure the diagonal - if they are the same, then the rectangle of the product is sustained. If not, then the mesmer, but a sharp blow to one end of the rack can align the form. If necessary, correct the clamps.

If the frame does not lie flat onto a flat surface, then we will trigger the protruding sections with a conversion through a wooden bar as a gasket. If this does not help, you may have to weaken the clamps or clamps to fix the wooden bar across the frame.

We will try to answer these questions.

The reliability of a wooden house or a bath from a bar depends on how to mount the bar to the bruus.

Brous connections

So, articulations are different in the spatial location of parts relative to each other:

Crown. This pairing between the details located in the adjacent layers or the wedges of the wall (from above or below), which prevent log displacements in the horizontal plane, their rotation and movement under the action of the gravity of the upper layers;
Facial longitudinal. Used by increasing the log length within one crown and prevent displacement of parts relative to the longitudinal axis, as well as an increase in the gap between them;
Facial angular artists. Serve for fastening logs when forming corners between the walls. Prevent displacements of logs and walls relative to each other, as well as turns and changes in the degree of the angle installed in the project. Prevent the expansion of the slots between the details in the corners of the building, the occurrence of drafts and the cold bridges;
T-shaped connections. There are in the docking of the inner walls and partitions with the external walls of the box at home or among themselves. Serve for a reliable hard attachment of the inner wall and prevent its displacements and dust;
Various pairing between wooden and stone structureswhich show how to mount the bar to the wall.

Important!
When considering certain methods of fixation, the possibilities of the modern tool and the level of your skill when working with it, as well as the feasibility and complexity of each method.
This is especially important if you intend to work with your own hands.

In each of the listed types of fixation of the wooden parts, there are many ways of fastenings and various techniques for the execution of locks and bowls, so they should be considered more.

Grief compounds

For the implementation of the grief method, such fastening techniques are used:

Using metal pins and nails;
With self-tapping screws;
With the help of a bracket;
Using wooden brazing;
Using plug-in spikes and knaps;
With the help of special milling locks (in the profiled tree).

It must be said that the method is quite simple and infertility, but at the same time very reliable, durable and durable. For the manufacture uses of solid rocks: oak, beech, ash.

Important!
The brace must consist of durable wood, having humidity lower than those of the details of the house, as well as perpendicular to the fibers of the timber's own fibers.

Facial longitudinal nodes

In addition, there are such ways:

Fastening with a longitudinal spike on the knaps;
Fixation with longitudinal indigenous spike;
Combined nodes.

Important!
In the case of straight and oblique locks, the details should be additionally fixed with wooden bellows in the contact places of surfaces.
To do this, in the middle of the castle make two holes and insert pegs in them.

Corner articulations

Corners - the most responsible sections of the design of a wooden house. Therefore, fasteners pay special attention.

There are many ways to implement such a pairing, like an angle:

Robust jack with a straight lock or "in the floor of a tree";
Disappointing with a skew castle or "in paw";
Fastening on a native spike;
Fixation of jack on the plug-in key;
Bowls with a residue one-sided, bilateral and four-sided.

Important!
It is practiced fastening the jack with nails or plates, but we do not recommend this method in mind of its unreliability and diligence.

The most common and reliable fastening method is the use of indigenous spike. This is an ordinary straight or trapezoid spike and a groove, with which the parts are connected.

When working with the profiled bar, there are more often conjugation using special bowls, or "with the residue". To do this, the product at the end drink a special landing place in which the next part is inserted. The bowl may be single, two or four-way.

One of the highest quality and reliable building materials is a tree. The naturalness and "softness" of wood allow you to build very good buildings. But if the construction team is irresponsible to the quality of the attachment, then such a house, not enough of the fact that he does not like long, it can also be a threat to his owners. Therefore, it is very important to know how to make a timing of a bar.

The reliability of the wooden house depends on how the timber will be attached to the bruus.

Some features of Bruus

It is believed that the customer is always right, but many builders begin to impose their opinions. And then there may be disputes. One of these controversial moments is the choice of timber or logs. In order to answer this question, you need to know some characteristics of these materials.

The logs have very high indicators in frost-resistant and have good resistance to winds, preventing the formation of drafts from the gaps. But the creation of log walls is a very difficult job, requiring knowledge and skills, and even better than a highly qualified carpenter. Independent production of a log of logs threatens to lead to failure. The assembly of the logs is a phased process, because after the cutting, they give them time for shrinkage and only after that install.

Bar is the same wood, only already mechanically processed in production. Its properties of thermal conductivity are similar to log. The only, connecting seams of BRUSEV more purged. But even with this problem, they found how to deal with: you need to use alternation of bars with different heights. Thus, the seams are reduced, and how the supplement use special laying materials and insulation.

When the walls are erected from the bar, the need for the scrupulousness of work is significantly lower. Therefore, besides a professional, with this task cope with the newcomer, and an amateur. Very great convenience is that the timber has a minimal shrinkage. Therefore, it is almost immediately laid out on the foundation.

If objectively evaluate the logs and a bar, then in the second case, time for construction work is 2-3 times less than in the first. This significantly saves temporary, financial and human resources.

Principles of proper bruse

Since the angular connections of the construction of the bar are a rather weak place, all sorts of insulation are used to eliminate this disadvantage. There are several types of compounds for this purpose, not only for the angle, but also for the inner walls, rafters and beams.

Every place has its purpose, so that the whole building performs its functions, it is necessary to secure the timing to the bracket in all places.

For corner bars, such compounds were developed as jack, with or without it. From the inside, the T-shaped connection is used.

The longitudinal mounting of the bar is provided with a pin, a native spike, oblique or direct lock.

For such material, this compound provides maximum strength and reliability. To make it easier to work, you should act on a specially designed pattern. The main thing is to observe the lines of lines and control the bars tightly fit to each other. As already mentioned, the angular joints are additionally insulated.

Not the last role plays and the choice of the right tools. For example, without an ax, it makes no sense to take on a log house. Saw, hacksaw, hammer and kiyanka act as auxiliary force.

The most common compound for angles is a joint with a residue and a locking groove. The size of the groove orient the half of the tree thickness. This type is mainly intended for the first crown.

"Castle" can also be used for connections without residues. For these purposes, it is necessary to have pending with a cross section of 30 mm and a length of 25 mm. The bar is stacked on the pass, and then harvest the holes under the brazed. At this stage, it is important to compare the height of the bar and the depth of the aperture. The second must be 1.5 levels above the log length.

Newbirds are most often built with the help of jointers. Of course, this method is the easiest, but it has many nuances. First, with this version, the structure is vulnerable for wind, respectively, in the house will constantly blow the drafts. So, and heat there will not be delayed for a long time. Secondly, during frosts the building will be strongly cold.

In this embodiment, the connection of two bars with metal plates, nails with spikes. The two elements are stacked on the support part, after which both ends are fastened using a bracket.

T-shaped connection requires brazing. Thus, the most reliable fastening of all available is achieved. Additionally, connections with a key and direct groove can be used, as well as a symmetrical or rectangular trapezoid spike. The latter helps to restrain the compounds so that they are not loosened and caught up. Of course, in order to make such a spike, you need to be patient and time. Therefore, among professional builders, he is not so big popularity. But the heater is another matter. Compounds in the corners are strengthened with brackets, bolts and nails.

Advantages of a properly bonded profiled or glued timber

Despite the fact that wood is used in the construction has long been, it also has a number of "uncomfortable" features. First, the surface of the tree does not have perfect smoothness. Secondly, while working with it, it turns out a large number of burstles and bitch. If you do not work with the material correctly, it will be too vulnerable to cold winds, which will significantly affect the quality of living inside such a building.

A rope is passed through the holes and is fixed at the ends of the nodules.

It is the right technology of producing a bar made it possible to negate these shortcomings. A bright representative of such a "struggle" is a profiled bar. The finished material has special recesses and ridges on its surface. They provide a more dense joint, respectively, and higher quality compound. Given the profile, the methods of connecting profiled materials are similar to the ordinary bruus.

For the sake of justice, it is necessary to immediately designate that the cost of such a material is high enough, since the consumption of wood in the production process is very large.

Therefore, more preferences are given to glued analogue. Such a timber consists of separately glued together lamellas that lie with fibers that do not match each other. Such a material is initially pumped up to a smooth surface, soaked with special solutions that will protect the house from rotting and fungi.

The profiled bar has a good fire-resistance, similar to metal structures. The glued analogue is lighter, which makes it possible to significantly save on the laying of a heavy foundation. But again, preferences depend on the customer's individual wishes.

Wood has a very bright and unique structure, thanks to which the construction of it looks truly interesting and attractive, most importantly, original.