Warming at home from a bar: outside or from the inside, review of materials and technologies. The correct method of outdoor insulation of the house from the bar How to insulate the brusade house under siding

Wood more warm material compared to brick or concrete. But in most regions, the thickness of the structures from it, satisfying the heat engineering, is significant. To reduce the necessary thickness use effective warming methods. Warming can be carried out both from the inside and outside. This article discusses how to warm the individual house from the bar outside with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of conducting events on heat offering outside

The insulation of the house from the bar is intended to provide a comfortable microclimate in the room and prevent the destruction of the bearing structures under the action of cold. Protection of walls and other surfaces outside has the following advantages.:

the dew point (the location of condensate) is located on the surface, which does not allow moisture to get into the thickness of the structure;
protection from cold not only internal premises, but also carrying construction structures;
it does not decrease the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

But this scheme has its drawbacks:

the complexity of working works by their own hands from the street with bad weather conditions and at a significant height of the building;
the need for additional finish of the facade (siding).

Many choose a bar as the material of the walls because of its appearance. When insulating outside, siding will close the logs and the original surface of the walls will be visible only from the inside. Outdoor insulation correctly apply from the point of view of science, but the owner of the house it does not arrange. If necessary, keep the initial facade of the building better to apply the heat protection circuit from the inside.

Materials for work

The insulation of the brusade house can be performed using the following types of heat insulator:

mineral wool (basalt or glass);
insulating foam;
warming with extruded polystyrene foam.

The easiest way to spend works on the warming of walls with your own hands withpolystyrene foam(foam or extruded). To work with this material, no special skills and special means of protection are required.

Foam insulation

The insulation of foam with its own hands has the following advantages:

low cost;
ease of installation;
the possibility of applying under siding without the air layer device;
high thermal insulation characteristics;
the durability of the heat insulator;
stability of foams to biological influences.

The disadvantages include:

combustion;
low strength;
instability to wetting at low temperatures (possibly destruction);
when the walls are insulated with foam outside, it is necessary to use siding or other durable material as a finish;
low vapor permeability requires an attentive attitude towards ventilation of the premises.

Some lack of insulation of foam can be avoided when using its closest relative. Warming with extruded polystyrene foam with its own hands has a higher strength and moisture resistance. Thanks to the addition of special antipyrin substances, manufacturers have achieved a combustibility class for some products G1 (weaklyor). The last two lack of thermal insulation by foam is also extruded expanded polystyrene foam.

Warming Minvata.

The main advantages of the thermal insulation of the Ministry of Service can be attributed:

high degree of thermal insulation (low thermal conductivity);
fire resistance;
resistance to biological effects;
durability.

For a wooden house, it is best to use the heat insulation of the Minvata. In contrast to the previous two types of insulation, it does not prevent air movement through the design of the walls and allows the house to "breathe".

The following properties include disadvantages:

the possibility of scattering the material to separate fibers and enter these particles to the skin and in the lungs. The problem is relevant only for the installation period and is resolved by applying workers of individual protection;
compared to foam, the insulation has a higher cost;
the thermal insulation of the mineral walls can absorb moisture and lind under its own weight.

It is important to remember that the installation of this insulation outside the siding requires a mandatory device of the air-ventilated layer with a thickness of at least 5 cm.

Warming technology

Works on thermal insulation of walls under siding are carried out in the following order:

before insulationing a house from a bar, it is necessary to clean the surface from dirt and dust;
a pair barlasting device (can be skipped using extruded polystyrene foam);
installation of insulation;
fixing the waterproofing layer (for extruded material it is also not necessary);
outdoor finish facade.

Polyethylene can be used as vaporizolation, but it is better to purchase a special steamproof membrane.

Fixing the material depends on its type. The mineral wool insulation is attached to the wall on the dowel between the bars. The fastening of polystyrene foam is best to carry out adhesive compositions. This will ensure the maximum degree of thermal insulation due to the integrity of the surface.

Competent insulation of the house will avoid many problems during operation and significantly save on the heating of the building.

The heat-insulating characteristics of the bar section 150x150 are insufficient in order to provide comfortable accommodation in the house during the cold winter period. In this regard, the owners of such a building inevitably wonder: how and how to insulate the house? According to the rules of heat engineering, outdoor insulation is much more efficient than internal. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to get acquainted with the choice of optimal conditions for the specific conditions of thermal insulation material suitable for use outside the house, and find out all the landscape nuances.

At the stage of preparation for the external warming of a wooden building, several questions must be solved:

what insulation is better;
how to put it correctly;
how to prepare walls at home.

Regardless of which heat-insulating material will be selected, the walls from the bar 150x150 must be prepared. First of all, you need to have a visual inspection and make sure that there are no signs of rotting wood, malicious insects, the need for additional mounting of the bar and elements of finishing window and doorways.

At the same time decide whether the walls in the pantry need. If empty slits are seen, it means that they need to be filled with the appropriate material before laying the insulation. Wall cacked - the process is a simple, but laborious. Knowledge of rules and tricks of this case will greatly simplify its implementation.

To eliminate gaps between bars, three materials are traditionally used:

pass;
jute;
linovatin etc

During the work of the wizard, special wooden devices are used in the form of blades with a thin blade. But the usual narrow spatula is suitable for independent execution of the task.

laying insulation rotor;
laying insulation in the set.

The first is optimal in the event that the slit is non-screens, the second is suitable for deep and long gaps. In case of caulkit, the rotor of the fiber pacles is distributed along the slit smooth thin layer, simultaneously driven into the clearance with a spatula. Work should be performed slowly and neatly, striving for as much as possible to compact the insulation. Packs are poured in layers until the gap is filled.

The laying in the set is performed as follows: bundles or tangles, corresponding to the size of the gap form, and drive them into it with a spatula and hammer. Regardless of the selected method of cacopa, work starts from the bottom of the wall.

Video - How to Crop the House of Brous

Video - Konopka Houses from Brous

Selection of material for outdoor insulation houses from a bar 150x150

The modern market offers many solutions for the insulation of a wooden house. The choice largely depends on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. For southern latitudes, one insulation will be optimal, for the Northern - the other. Therefore, when choosing a material is focused on its main characteristics:

coefficient of thermal conductivity;
compression strength;
frost resistance;
guaranteed by the manufacturer life.

For external insulation of the house from a bar of 150x150, the following thermal insulation materials will be suitable:

fibrous (glass gamble, mineral wool, stone wool, basalt wool);
sheet foam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
polyethylene foamed;
sprayed polyurethane foam;
windproof plates of isoplat.

Mineral wool and its analogues

Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, but has one significant disadvantage: hygroscopicity. Since the wet insulation is not capable of high-quality heat, the use of mineral wool in rolls or plates requires pair-and waterproofing of walls and the foundation of the house. This significantly increases the costs of its external warming.

When choosing fibrous materials, it is necessary to take into account the following points:

air humidity level in the region of residence;
the option of facing the external walls of the building.

The second requirement is due to the fact that laying of mineral wool and its analogues requires the wall cladding device using the ventilated facade technology. Therefore, to save on finishing works will not work. If there are doubts that minvat under the cladding will remain dry, this material is better not to use.

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool

Regarding this insulation there are many myths. One of them convinces that the foam allocates the styrene harmful to the environment. All these allegations have long been debunked by laboratory research. The safety of the foam is confirmed by sanitary-epidemiological conclusion 63.01.06.224.P.001216.04.03 dated April 7, 2003, the conclusion 01-188 dated 25.04.00 Research Institute of Hygiene and the Protection of Children and Teenagers, RAMS, Case No. 03 / PM8 of the Moscow Research Institute of Hygiene . F.F. Erisman. Therefore, this insulation can be safely used not only for outdoor, but also for internal insulation.

When choosing a foam, it is important to pay attention to its density. What it is higher, the lower its thermal conductivity. It is believed that the density of foam corresponds to the digital indicator of its brand. But it is correct only in part. For example, foam density C-25 ranges from 15.1-25 kg / m3. In the choice of material, a substantial help will provide the table of its characteristics.

For external insulation of the house from a bar 150x150, a foam of any brand can be used. Manufacturers offer cloths of different thicknesses: 5 cm and 10 cm. When choosing a material, it is necessary to consider that for the insulation of the facade it is better to buy a foam of the brand of the PSB-C-35 thickness of 5 cm than the PSB-C-25 foam foam thickness 10 cm. Cost of these materials Practically the same, but the thermal insulation effect will be more significant.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPPS)

The EPPS has almost the same chemical composition as foam, but has a lower thermal conductivity, higher bending strength, lower water absorption. A significant difference in characteristics is due to the methods of producing these materials.

Epps is ideal for outdoor insulation of the house from a bar of 150x150. The only minus of this material is its relatively high price. An extruded polystyrene plate 2 cm thick on thermal conductivity is comparable to a foam sheet with a thickness of 3 cm and a layer of mineral wool 4 cm thick.

Epps can be glued to the walls of the building, but you need to choose the right glue. For styrene-based materials (EPPS and foam), the following compositions cannot be used:

based on acetone and any solvents;
petroleum toluene;
based on water;
ethyl acetate.

Prices for insulation foam

Heater from foam

This material has long proved its suitability for the heat insulation device.

Foamed polyethylene has a lot of advantages. Among them:

low thermal conductivity coefficient;
elasticity;
a light weight;
low cost.

When choosing this material, you should know that it is the spirit of species: PVD (high pressure) and PND (low pressure). Products made of foamed polyethylene are with one-sided and bilateral foil.

The most popular are the following:

Materials made of foamed polyethylene are beneficial in that they do not require the device of the vapor and waterproofing layer. This is due to their absolute nonhygroscopicity. Therefore, when wearing the external walls of the building with foamed polyethylene can be safely saved.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

Pamp sprayed differs from the above materials not only by the method of laying.

It has many other advantages:

extremely low thermal conductivity: 0.023 - 0.03 W / m * K (this is significantly lower than that of minvats and foam);
environmentally safe;
does not require pair-and waterproofing;
there is no need for an additional fastening of the thermal insulator, as how foam when applied firmly sticks to the wall;
when applied, forms a solid layer, eliminating the possibility of the appearance of cold bridges.

All this makes a sprayed PPU with the best material for the outdoor insulation of the house from the bar 150x150. The only drawback of this method is its high cost. For spraying, the PPU requires not only a special technique, and the skills of working with it. Therefore, it is necessary to pay not only material, but also services of specialists.

Windproof Plates of Wood Fiber Based Plates

Scandinavian windproof plates are made from fiber coniferous trees and are 100% natural thermal insulating material. With their production, no chemical binders, nor glue, nor resin. In this case, a plate with a thickness of 12 mm by heat insulation is 44 mm of wood.

The main advantages of windproof plates isoplat:

Tightness. Due to its elasticity, the plates are firmly adjacent to the walls, the gaps of the windproof layer are excluded.
Heat insulation. It does not take place during the entire service life and guarantees reliable insulation of the house throughout the service life. COEF. thermal conductivity of material λ10 ≤ 0.045 W / MK
Parry permeability. The stove is a "breathable" material, thanks to which an extra humidity leaves home and mold and fungus are not formed in the walls.
Resistance to atmospheric moisture. The plate is saturated with paraffin, due to which no precipitation, references and drops of temperatures are not scary.
Soundproofing. Windproof stove even minimal thickness will provide sound insulation about -23db.
Simple and quick installation. Size of plates 2700x1200x12 mm, weight of only 9 kg.
Guaranteed service life of more than 50 years. Actual use of more than 70 years.
Environmentally and naturally 100% like a tree itself.

Prices for isoplast

Isoplastic

Rules of outdoor insulation of a wooden house

The walls of a wooden house are built of very hygroscopic material. The tree can absorb moisture and at the same time deform. Despite the fact that the construction bar has a low humidity coefficient, environmental impact inevitably changes this indicator. Therefore, in wooden houses you can observe the deformation of the walls. It is insignificant, but inevitably affects the geometric shape of window and doorways.

With the outer insulation of the house from the bar 150x150, it is necessary to consider that the ventilation gap is required, through which the moisture will come out of the tree. Thus, no harm will be caused by the walls. Over the insulation laid from the outside of the building, it is necessary to build a facing layer. Therefore, the best technology of insulation of the house from the bar is a device of a ventilated facade.

Its schematic diagram includes the installation of several layers of materials (direction from the wall to the street):

wall;
doomlet (frame);
heat insulator;
vapor insulation membrane;
ventilation gap;
facing material.

Regardless of which insulation will be used, it is necessary to observe the order of laying materials and do not forget that there should be a width of at least 1 cm between the heat insulator and cladding.

The device of the ventilated facade, installation of crates and insulation

Step 1: Installation of remote planks

For mounting remote slats, the bars are used by a cross section of 20/20 mm or a cutting board with a thickness of 20-25 mm. For fastening wood, nails or screws on wood are used. The optimal step is 60-80 cm.

Step 2: Installation of a vapor insulation membrane

A vapor barrier film is sold in rolls. Styling of cloths start from the bottom of the wall and gradually move up. Vaporizolation is fixed with a 10-15 cm construction stapler.

Prices for vapor insulation

Material for vapor insulation

Step 3: Installation of crates

Use the same material as when the device of the 1st tier: Bruks or boards, but the thickness of the lumber should be different: 5-10 cm and correspond to the thickness of the selected insulation. Boards (bars) are not fixed horizontally, but vertically. It is important to consider that the distance between the cutting racks must correspond to the width of the insulation.

Step 4: Laying the heat insulator

The space between the racks of the 2nd tier of the crates is laying the mineral wool web or foam sheets. To the wall of the house they are fastened with plastic dowels with a wide platter.

Step 5: Mounting windproof membrane

The windproof film is laid in the same way as vapor insulation. The crate is fastened with counterbags.

Step 6: Installation of facing material

The finishing material can use:

metallic or vinyl siding;
facade cement-chip panels;
lining.

Prices for facade panels

Facade panels

High-quality outdoor insulation of the house of a bar of 150x150 will provide a comfortable microclimate in residential premises and will reduce the cost of building heating.

Video - How to insulate a house from a bar outside

Video - Warming house mineral wool

If you bought or built a brusade house, then most likely noticed that it was not very warm.

Bar - excellent material, very beautiful and eco-friendly. But the walls of the brusade house 2-3 years after the construction begin to lose too much heat.

This is due to the fact that the tree is drinking moisture when they are raining and dries in dry weather.

Walls of brusade house Weave and crack.

On one of the objects, we saw, in general, a terrible picture: the bar in the wall of the bath curved the "propeller" and the walls were gaps with a thumb.

Unfortunately, if your home is the same, then you will not do anything with this: the cracks in the wall of the brusade house can be caught before the breathtaking, but it will not solve the problem.

But it can solve the insulation of the brusade house outside.

Whatever big crops in the walls of the brusade house, the outer cake of insulation under siding will protect you from the cold.

How to insulate a house from a bar under siding

1. Conduction by siding houses from a bar: preparation.

First you need to protect the insulation from moisture from the inside of the house.

For this wall of the brusade house is trimmed outside with vapor barrier.

Vaporizolation does not allow water in the form of a pair to penetrate into the insulation and condense (settle in liquid state) in it.

Sometimes before mounting a vapor barrier, the wall of the brusade house should be cleaned and handled by an antiseptic. It is worth doing if the bar from which your home is built, nothing has been processed.

In this case, the mold and fungus together with dust, and the entire wall is processed by an antiseptic using a roller or a spacing.

2. Steamed Wall

In order for water in the form of a pair, it does not get into the insulation and was not condensed in it (it did not turn into a liquid), a vapor barrier film or membrane is laid between the house wall and the insulation.

On this photo - house with mounted vaporizolation ()

Now there are many different vapor barrier materials, and they are updated every couple of years.

3. Testing Siding Houses from Bruus: Installation of Heater

After the surface of the walls is prepared, you can proceed to insulation.

When insulation, most builders use a 50x50 mm bar, which is attached on the wall through 600 mm, and between Bar then the insulation is stacked.

By the way, keep in mind: For the insulation of the walls of the house, you can use only a slab insulation. Roller does not fit!

The frame bar for insulation at home under siding is located vertically or horizontally.

But this method of insulation of a brusade house has one significant drawback: cold bridges.

See ourselves: the wall of your house from the bar is insulated with a mineral wool or any other insulation, and this is good. But between the panels of the insulation lies the bar, the thermal conductivity of which is higher than that of the insulation.

Heat from your home will go there, where it is easier for him - through the frame. This is the same cold bridges.

Thus, heat losses from your home through the frame bar will be greater than through the insulation.

In other words, with such a scheme of the insulation of a brusade house under the siding wall insulates unevenly.

How to remove cold bridges? We have a solution to this problem.

It consists in a fundamentally different approach to the mounting of the frame and the insulation.

If you decide to order installation of siding with insulation in the STC standard, then your home will be insulated evenly and without cold bridges, and it will be warmer than when the "ordinary" method is insulated.

4. Testing Siding Houses from Bruus: Installation of Wind Hydro-Protection

After the insulation of the brusade house under siding is finished, the insulation must be closed from moisture that comes from the street, that is, outside the wall.

For this, the wind-hydrogen is used, it is wind hydrogen insulation.

In this photo you see the insulation and the first layer of the frame, closed by wind-hydrogen-free ().

This is a special film through which water vapor passes, but water in liquid state does not pass.

It is attached on top of the insulation over the entire surface.

Now your house is insulated and protected from moisture, and you can proceed to siding Siding Houses from Brous.

5. Testing Siding Houses from Bruus: Installation of Creek

In order to be needed to mount the crate.

The case is needed that under the siding was a ventilated clearance: a space in which an upward flow of air is created, which protects the insulation from refurbishment and rotting.

If there is no westily gap under siding, then the insulation may begin to accumulate moisture, and it will deteriorate.

Ventilated clearance when weaving the siding of a brusade house is required! By the way, houses from any other material too.

6. Siding siding houses from a bar: Siding installation

After the cutture is installed, you can start the trim of the brusade house siding.

What to pay attention to the walls of the bar

Of course, on how the lamp is mounted.

Whatever the curves of the walls of your home under siding, siding should make them perfectly smooth.

And it depends on how far cinema under sidingbecause it is the basis of the future facade of the house.

Siding makes the possible magic transformation of your home. For example, this is:

By the way, we have a video with a small part of our work in the format "before and after":

But this is possible only if people who perform siding in the house - Professionals.

If you are ready for crying your home sidingand want to get tested time and other residents of the Leningrad region high quality, call right now by phone in St. Petersburg 956-17-30 and we be sure to help.

Among the many types of finishing for houses from a bar, brick or concrete, we will stay in detail today on siding. This is a universal and practical material that has a lot of advantages. The finish of the house siding is considered one of the most popular. You can transform your home, make it more attractive, and most importantly, protect it from the harmful effect of the external environment. This will help extend the life of the house. And if we take into account that the tree is very easy to spoil moisture, ultraviolet rays and temperature drops, then such protection is simply necessary. Nevertheless, some lovers of natural wood will say that they do not want to hide his nobility under the layer of finishing. It does not matter, on the market you can find siding under the bar, which perfectly imitates wood.

From this article, you will learn the features of the material, its varieties and technology of the sheathing with their own hands.

Types of Siding for Finishing

Before proceeding with the analysis of the process of mounting siding, we will look at the catalog of goods from which you can choose the appropriate material for yourself. So, there are several varieties of siding to finish houses. If we take into account the trim of the brusade house, then such types will be presented to you:

siding from Vinyl. It consists of 100% plastic. Its advantage is that plastic does not interact with moisture absolutely. She does not harm him. The panels themselves have a small weight, look beautiful and are practical. The main advantage of vinyl siding is high resistance to external factors. Having trimmed by vinyl siding, imitating the timber, you will create the illusion of a rounded timber, as it is possible to distinguish materials from close range;
metal siding. The material is based on a metal sheet, which is additionally coated with several layers of polymer. The leaf of steel is protected by galvanized, after which the base coating is ground and apply. It can be of various kinds of drawings, imitation of a tree or other material. So that the coating does not fade, it is covered with polyester layers. Siding metal under the bar is also made in such a way that it is quite difficult to distinguish it from real, as can be seen from this photo.

Accent! Siding under the timber is protected not only from the outside, but also from the inside. This allows the material to be fully protected and stopped much longer.

Vinyl products are not so durable as metal. However, they have a smaller cost and will not rust over time. Yes, and the weight of the materials is different, so the load on the building will not be so large from the vinyl siding. Both the first and second species are characterized by their positive characteristics. Externally, they are perfectly copying the timber, are durable, reliable, universal, and the care of the material is easier than simple.

If we talk about the dimensions, the size range is quite large. If a block house is released with a length of 2-6 m, then siding imitation of a timber 0.5-6 m, with a thickness of 0.5 mm. In unforeseen circumstances, you can independently cut the material, seabling it in size.

Tip! Working with metal products, it is important after trimming to protect the place to the corrosion tool. Otherwise, the material will start rust and will last long.

It is convenient to work with the material even one person. The thing is that because of a small thickness, the material has an acceptable weight. It ranges from 2.5 to 4 kg / m 2. With such parameters, the decoration by siding houses from the bar will be performed quickly and easily.

I would like to pay attention to another feature of the materials. They are divided into such types:

Despite these distinctive features, installing siding under the ram does not change. We are talking only about the aesthetic side.

Work on the trim house siding

A little useful information about siding you have learned, now it's time to talk about how to carry out the trim at home by this material. Immediately you will be happy - the process is simple, it is important only to consider the instructions and implement everything into life. The first stage of work is the installation of the crate. Thanks to this technology, you can perform insulation, without which you just do not do. The lattice for installation can be two types:

Each can install the crate. It is only important to observe the distance and smoothly fill the framework. If you work with a metal crate, it has its own characteristics. The finished frame will have less rigidity, so it is enhanced with horizontal jumpers. With a metal profile, you have the ability to choose a heater with any width. You only need to do in it and in a vapor barrier film of the holes for suspensions. This design will avoid cold bridges.

Tip! This method is suitable for insulation not only by the brusade design, but also brick or concrete.

Due to the simple installation process, you can eliminate the curvature of the walls. First you need to fix the foundation of the suspension, and already consolidate vertical metal profiles to them. The end of the suspension bends to the side.

If we talk about a wooden crate, then it is done in a few steps:

First of all, you need to consolidate the bars of the main crate. Its thickness must be the same as the thickness of the material for insulation.
After that, the insulation slab itself is stacked between the bars.
From above, everything is squeezed by a vapor insulating film, a counter-doret is made. And then there should be siding under the bar. So you will make the ventilation gap under siding.

Tip! Start mounting the crate you need to build angle. Carefully calculate the fastening step and stick to it. If we take into account the strong winds, the perfect step of the crate under siding is 40-45 cm. If there is more, you will hear the rattling of siding, and this will reduce its service life. First fasten the corner bar, pull the line between them and secure the remaining rails.

Now everything is ready to secure siding under the bar. Let's consider the material fastening technology.

Montage siding with your own hands

In addition, you will need the panels themselves for work, it is also not to do without starting and finishing planks, platbands, inner and outer angles, as well as decorative planks that will hide siding elongation. If you compare the price of these consumables with siding ourselves, then this is a kopeck, so you should not save, buy high-quality products so that the trimmed house is perfect, and the finish has not spoiled in a few months.

Many owners of wooden houses consider it necessary to produce insulation of walls immediately after its construction. However, I would like to note that a mistake is made quite often - it's not always worthwhile to wear new home all-in-wood houses, since the tree itself has a low thermal conductivity, and, in addition, it can create a favorable microclimate inside .

Warming up the wooden house outside Minvata under siding is advisable to conduct in the event that the building has already stood for many years, and, having passed the numerous temperature drop cycles, wood has lost its original qualities. This is due to the fact that there are numerous deep cracks on the logs or timber from which the house is erected under the influence of atmospheric influences.

The insulation measures are also resorting if the wall thickness is small, and the house is located in the region with cold winters. Thermal insulation helps to create a lower total thermal conductivity of enclosing structures and significantly reduce the cost of fuel.

For the insulation of a wooden house, a mineral wool is increasingly selected, and for decorative exterior finishes - vinyl siding, which is available for the price and has a sufficiently long service life. In addition, the finishing material is easy to install, and if one of the panels is damaged, it can be easily replaced with a new one.

In order for the optimal microclimate, after the insulation of wooden walls, the optimal microclimate is preserved, and the structure has not been harmful, it is necessary to know the specifics of the thermal insulation process, as well as the operation of the house.

You may be interested in information about what effect will arise if you perform

What does the heightened moisture of wood lead to?

The answer to this question you need to know in order to more seriously approach insulation measures and, without hoping for various tips, and arguing logically, to take correct solutions.

Everyone knows that not treated with special compositions of wood, being constantly in a wet state, is amazed by microflora (flexible, mold), it starts the processes of rotting, the material loses its strength. After a couple of years, the log in which mold settled, completely loses thermal insulation qualities, and then it turns into a duch. Therefore, when wearing wooden walls, it is very important to choose the correct materials and carry out their installation in such a way as to protect the design from the conjunction.

The moisture of logs before assessing them into the log house should be 23 ÷ 35%. Stokening about a year under normal conditions, the walls dry, and the moisture in the wood decreases to 10 ÷ 18%, depending on the measurement season. It should be noted that if the tree is in a long time in a wet state, the level of which will be 20 ÷ 22%, then the formation of the fungus in its structure is inevitable. In addition, such an environment is favorable for the appearance of a beetle-tree.

It is not necessary to think that wood begins to be cheat only due to high humidity, rain, snow or fog. In fact, in the winter, when temperatures on the street and in the house differ, and the humidity in the room multiple times exceeds the outer, wood absorbs it into its structure. Binding moisture from the inside, the tree, passing through the junctions between the logs and micropores, gives it out. The lower the temperature on the street and above in the house, the greater the amount of moisture passes through its structure of wood. About this process say that the material "breathes".

Violating such natural equilibrium - in no case cannot. It is unacceptable to carry out insulation so that water vapors are closed out the way out of wood into the atmosphere. In addition, the insulation plays a role in the displacement of the "dew point" - it will be carried out beyond the wooden wall and will have to the thickness of the thermal insulation material. It will also significantly reduce the likelihood of overwhelming wooden walls.

Wooden Wall insulation materials

So, in order not to disturb the normal temperature balance and prevent moisture stagnation inside the logs, it is very important to comply with the proper insulation technology and choose suitable materials.

The most important condition is a vapor-permeable membrane

The most important element of the insulating system of a wooden house is a windproof diffuse membrane.

In order not to disturb the natural balance of humidity of the pr and insulation, it is necessary to create normal conditions for the operation of the structure, preventing obstacles to the output of water vapor outside.

Prices for windproof diffuse membrane

windproof diffuse membrane

Many builders carrying out the work "not for themselves" are not very conceived of the durability of the insulated home, and closes the wooden wall with a vapor insulation film that absolutely not allowed. Experts involved in the study of building physics of wooden house-building and building materials are advised to completely abandon vapor barrier material when building buildings from wood, in which it is planned to stay all year round. Instead, the windproof diffuse membrane should be used, which is fixed from the outside of the insulation. This coating has a hydrophobicity - the water that fell on it is simply rolled, but never absorbed into the fibers. That is, even if Under the siding layer, water will be leaking, get into the layer of mineral wool, and even more so - to the wooden walls, it will not be possible.

At the same time, the unique structure of such a membrane absolutely does not prevent the free output of water vapor outside, from the walls and the insulation layer into the atmosphere. Thus, the walls of the house continue to "breathe", spontaneously aligning a humidity balance.

The insulation itself needs a windproof - and this membrane fully copes with such a task, not allowing weathering of the fibers of the material and penetration into its thickness of cold air flows.

Schematically - the structure of the insulation "cake" on a wooden wall

Ventilation clearance left between windproof parpural The film and finishing material will allow freely circulating air, which will constantly dry the condensate drops on the surface of the membrane.

Optimal insulation - mineral wool

With the outer insulation of wooden houses, synthetic thermal insulation materials are completely excluded - polystyrene foam, foamed polyethylene, and the like. It is also necessary to immediately be from any foil coating materials. All listed insulation have vapor insulation qualities, which, as already mentioned, is completely unacceptable.

Do not choose artificial sprayed materials for insulation of a wooden house, such as polyurethane foam, as it also completely seals the surface and does not give the tree to "breathe". Such insulation will lead to rotting and the appearance of mold inside the house, which is very dangerous not only for the entire structure, but also for the health of residents.

The most acceptable option for such works is the mineral wool, but also not any. It can be produced from different materials: blast (slag), molten glass combat and sand (glass gamble) and volcanic gabbro-basalt rock rocks (stone or basalt wool).

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

For insulation of a wooden house, the most suitable option is the stone wool, which has low hygroscopicity, excellent thermal insulation qualities, suitable density and sufficiently high compressive strength.

The main technical and operational characteristics of this material:

The coefficient t of the process - from 0.032 to 0.048 W / m × ° K.
Moisture absorption - no more than 2% of the volume (in some species - significantly less )
The density of basalt mats can vary from 30 to 400 kg / m³, as semi-rigid and rigid plates are made, as well as mats from mineral felt.
The compressive strength is from 5 to 80 kPa, depending on the variety of material and its density.
Basalt insulation is breathable material, and this is one of the basic conditions when insulating wooden structures.
The most important quality, especially for use in wooden construction - non-combustible material.

For outdoor insulation of the house, it is recommended to choose semi-rigid mats of the heat insulator, the density of which varies from 80 to 150 kg / m³. Usually they have a size of 600 × 1200 or 500 × 1000 mm and are manufactured in a specific thickness range. Rolled material is easier to assemble, but its density and strength below, it can over time, even with a high-quality fix on the wall.

For thermal insulation external works on the walls of a wooden house, a glass gamble can also be used, but the effectiveness and durability of such insulation will be significantly lower.

But slag should immediately, categorically exclude. It is not worth prolonged by its low price - this has a higher coefficient T of the provision and absorbs moisture well. Increased moisture absorption In the process of operation, leads to an increase in thermal conductivity, that is, the material dramatically loses its thermal insulation qualities. In addition, the increased acidity of slag is absolutely not useful in natural wood.

Experts recommend using environmentally friendly hemp or linen mats for indoor and external insulation, which have low thermal conductivity, good vapor permeability and fairly high resistance to moisture. But the biggest disadvantage of these materials is their high cost.

Perhaps you will be interested in information about what to choose for timber

Required Wooden House insulation thickness

The thickness of the insulation is chosen depending on the thickness of the walls and the medium winter temperatures of the region, where the house is built. Most often, the thermal insulator is mounted in two layers, the first of which is 100, and the second is 50 mm. If necessary, the thickness can be increased, but for this you have to fix another series of crates.

However, it will be quite good to accurately calculate the thickness of the insulating layer - in order to prevent the low-efficiency of insulation or, on the contrary, do not waste excess means for excessive, unnecessary in particular conditions of thermal insulation. Perform calculation is not so difficult.

The principle is reduced to the fact that the total thermal resistance of the multilayer wall structure should be no lower than the indicator R. (m² × ° FROM/ W), calculated by experts for the region.

To simplify perception, the values \u200b\u200bof this indicator are indicated on the proposed Scheme scheme of Russia. You should choose the top value for the walls (designated by purple numbers).

Since the design of the wall is multi-layered, its general thermal resistance will be equal to the sum of the resistance of each of the layers affecting the insulation qualities of the house.

R \u003d R.1 + R.2 + R.3 …

Well, the thermal resistance of each layer is expressed by the formula:

RN. = Hn. / λn.

Hn.- layer thickness.

λn.- The coefficient of the material of the material.

With the insulation of a wooden building, such layers can be:

1 - Wooden log house itself. Please note that the cut thickness, folded from the rounder is accepted slightly smaller than when using a rectangular bar. This should be taken into account when carrying out a survey.

2 - Interior decoration, if it, of course, is. In wooden houses, the walls may be inside in undisputed, shuffle with natural clapboard, mdf, plywood, poles, sometimes use drywall under painting and sticking with wallpaper.

3 - layer of the outer insulation - the value that is required to be found.

There may be more complex "pies", and for each layer there is a calculation. But usually natural wooden walls from the inside are trying to "not spoil" synthetic materials to preserve the natural advantages of wood.

The scheme also shows:

4 — parotypes Hydrophobic windproof membrane.

5 - Frame details (crates).

6 - Siding. Siding cladding is separated from insulation by air ventilated gap (7). Thus, from what particular panels were made, they do not participate in the general thermal insulation of the wall and are not accepted into the calculation.

Thus, to calculate the required layer of insulation, you need to know the thickness of each layer and the coefficient of its thermal conductivity.

As a result, the calculation formula will look like this:

HU = (R.– H1./ λ1 – H2./ λ2 – H3./ λ3 ...) × λu

The value of the coefficients of thermal conductivity of materials is easy to find in reference books, and this parameter for the selected type of mineral wool ( Λu) It is necessarily indicated on the package or in the accompanying documentation.

For convenience of counting, we recommend using the built-in calculator specially programmed for natural wooden walls. It provides for the ability to indicate, in addition to the wall itself, two more layers of finishing from natural materials.