Small workbench. The structure and arrangement of the joiner's workbench do it yourself. Practical instruction for creating a workbench

This joinery is a reliable frame, a solid working surface and a lot of compartments for convenient storage of tools and devices. The main design you will make it yourself in two days, and the various useful additions will add gradually.

Tools for work

To handle array of wood and sheet materials, a tool will be required:

1. Hacksaw.
2. Electrolake.
3. Circular saw.
4. Grinder machine.
5. Drill and drill.
6. Clamps.
7. Screwdriver.
8. Pencil.
9. Corolnic
10. Roulette.
11. Brush.

Carcass joinery workbench

Take smooth pine boards without large bitch cross section 50x150 mm. The raw lumber dries: the lower the humidity of the boards, the less likely the design of the design. The sawnure vestic in question is designed for comfortable work of the wizard in 170-180 cm. To change the height of the design, make the legs above or lower.

Table 1 - Frame Parts List

	Name	Chisty dimensions, mm			Material	number
	Detail of legs
	Lower projection
	Top projection
	Cross pride
	Cross crossing
	Longitudinal pricker
	Longitudinal Tsarga
	Bottom shelf
	Space board

All elements of the base of the joinery workbench paired, so placing a 150 mm wide on the board at once the same details of the same length.

Wheel all the wooden blanks in length with the exception of spacers: short to cut into more times already planed, and the longs should be sprinkled later "at the place."

Measure the width of the board, take away the thickness of the disk of your circular saw and divide the result in half. Add the size on a measuring scale and make sure that the pilot disk is perpendicular. Displays the boards in the middle.

Ostrict the details and process their sandpaper medium grain.

Fall the lower spacers and pass the ends. Cleaning the surface from dust, apply glue to a small pier and at the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts of the clamp, wipe out the squeezed glue and drill the holes with the drill with the zenkovka.

Screw the blanks with screws 6.0x70. Prepare the remaining feet of a carcass of a joinery.

Remove the chamfer on the lower ends to reduce the likelihood of wood split in the workbench.

Prepare for gluing nodes connecting legs with longitudinal pripers. While the details of the screws, setting a straight corner.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place half the frames and longitudinal kings on the floor semi, measure the length of the upper spacer.

Failure parts and secure on glue and screws.

Collect the top frame of the joiner's workbench on the smooth surface. Stretch the bars with joiner glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drill guide holes under them.

Collect the bottom strapping of the workbench, I use for the convenience of clamp and auxiliary planks.

Put the top frame in place and align the entire design. Connect the parts of the frame of the frame with screws.

Cut from a sheet material with a thickness of 16 mm lower shelf and secure it on the bars

Workstand worktop for joinery

Use MDF sheets, chipboard or plywood with a thickness of 16-20 mm for the workbench. Spread the plates into two layers and get a tabletop with a thickness of 32-40 mm.

Drawing and device of the workbench cover: 1 - edge planks (birch, maple); 2 - work surface (solid fiberboard); 3 - carrier plate (chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For countertops, you can take sheets of chipboard remaining from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of the wardrobe are suitable. Take them as a basis and add small pieces so that the joinery cover is obtained with dimensions of 670x1940 mm.

Place the narrow plates closer to the rear wall and to the center of the workbench. Large sheets place in the top layer of the table top. Spread outline blanks.

Create sheets by self-drawing, blowing them into the splashed holes. Cut the edges with a manual circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop regarding the frame and secure screws.

Ostive rails for edge linings. Screws at 45 ° and cut the strips in length. Put a piece of Fiberboard on the workbench cover, add a smooth panel from above and secure all this by clamps.

It's easier to mount the lining. Align the ends along the edges of the table top and press the rail to the panel - the upper plane will be flush with the workbench lid. Holding the bar with one hand, drill the guide holes and fasten the parts of the screws.

Rearrange the device to the other side and install the rest of the lining. Process the slats of the grinding.

Drill a hole in the corner of the plate, which allows you to easily push out the DVP from the recess when it is replaced.

Clean the surfaces from dust and cover the wooden frames of the frame of the mourn. Place the DVP in the lid's deepening. If you use pieces of material, then secure them using bilateral tape. Install on the workbench joiner's vice.

Tool storage boxes in a joinery

Filling the space under the cover of the joinery, use the modular principle. Separate blocks are easier and more convenient to change it later when it takes place for a new tool. There will be a certain overflow of the material, it will increase the mass of the workbench and its stability is enough to work with the power tool.

Scheme Storage Places: 1 - Full Extension Box; 2 - a spacious box of plywood; 3 - container from chipboard; 4 - wide drawer; 5 - compartment for a portable toolbox; 6 - place for cases and blanks.

Use drawers from old furniture

Pick up the boxes suitable for dimensions from an unnecessary writing desk or chest.

Sign the wooden elements and disconnect them gently. Clean the spikes and eye glue.

Cut the strips in width, removing erased corners and cracking grooves. If the native bottom of the hip box, prepare a thicker faeer or fiberboard. Make new grooves on circular saw.

Collect the drawer "on dry", if necessary, pon the part. Clean the surface and glue the design. Use mounting corners to accurately assemble direct corners.

When the glue is dry, polish the corners and the sides of the box, consolidating it for the convenience of work.

Prepare guide strips and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Calculation of a block for three drawers

Failure lower, top and side panels. Screw the rail guides with screws.

Collect the panel in the module and try the stroke of the boxes. Place the block inside the workbench, putting the backups under it.

Remove the guide holes, sprinkle and tighten the screws. Crepe chipboard to the top bars and to the legs of the workbench.

Install the front overlays on the boxes. Having placed the location of the case, grab it with one screw. Insert the box in place and adjust the position of the panel. Gently remove the box and wrap the rest of the screws.

Secure the remaining lining - the module with wide drawers is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable box

The average module is manufactured in the entire height of an expanding to enhance the stiffness of the joinery. For the enclosure, take a 16 mm thick chipboard and cut two sidewalls, bottom and lid.

Middle Module Corps: 1 - framework scheme; 2 - side wall; 3 - bottom and top panels.

Attach the heading strips to the sidewalls, collect the framework on the screws and install the right-door block.

Prepare parts for drawer.

Drawings of the box elements: 1 - long wall; 2 - short wall; 3 - bottom; 4 - front pad; 5 - Rake.

Circular saw Select grooves in the walls, which can be made by a regular disc. Set the depth of 6 mm, and the width is 8 mm. Run all four details. Slide the longitudinal fiction of a saw by 2 mm and perform a trial propyl. Check the groove and adjust the stop, if necessary. Run the remaining blanks.

Collect the module and install the rail from the bottom, protecting the chipboard edges from the chipping and providing more "smooth" stroke.

Secure the front panel with screws and put the box in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The device of the enclosures of these modules is identical to previous designs. The retractable container is placed on roller guides, taking into account the mounting gap, so its width will be less internal size of the body by 26 mm (for common 6 mm thick guides).

Device of the module and details of the box: 1 - assembly scheme; 2 - rear and front walls; 3 - front panel; 4 - bottom; 5 - side walls.

Before assembling the case, secure on the sidewalls restrictive wooden rails and metal guides.

Mounting circuit guide on the walls of the case.

Secure the finished module under the workbench cover.

To install the guides on the box, click the locksters and pull out small rails.

Secure the parts on the walls. The desired distance from the edge to the guide will determine independently based on the specific design and the gap of 10 mm between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.

Pull up the middle rails.

Insert both guides at the same time, holding the medium rails with your fingers. If the box "went" tight, remove it and try again.

Put the front overlay in place.

How to make a drawer of a joinery of plywood

Fall the blanks of the box of the box of 10-millimeter plywood, and for the bottom, take a sheet with a thickness of 5 mm.

Scheme of cutting parts for two plywood boxes: 1 - front panel; 2 - rear liner; 3 - side wall; 4 - front liner.

Treat the workpiece with a grinding machine.

Make the grooves under the plywood bottom in the side walls, the back and front liner. Clean the burrs with emery paper.

Spread and twist the details of the front and rear walls with screws.

Apply glue to the joints and in the groove.

Collect the design, using corners and clamps.

While the details of the screws, driving the guides.

Collect your own hands the second plywood box.

Install on the back wall of the joinery workbench panel intended for increasing the stiffness of the structure and for placing a manual tool.

Cover the boxes and cut-off ends of wood-chipboard.

Move the power to the manufacturer with your own hands and make the tools container filling.

Homemade masters scattering wooden blanks on a stool - sooner or later come to the need to make your own workbench for carpentry work. When performing uncomplicated tasks - you can do the versatile work desk and a pair of three good clamps.

If you are seriously engaged in a carpentry business, appropriate equipment is necessary. At the same time, it does not matter, you perform products to order, or do something for home. The homemade carpentry workbench will allow any product at a high technical level, and will save you a lot of time.

IMPORTANT! Discussing this question is meant the presence of free space for work. Ideally, a separate room in the form of a workshop. As a last resort - high-quality canopy in the yard.

If you are going to be joinery in the apartment, or on a spacious loggia - the only way out, get a folding metal workbench. Of course, handle the overall wooden blanks on it will not work, but the quality of work and the convenience will increase by an order.

The main task of such a device is to securely fix the workpiece of any form on a flat table top. Instead of joinery of vice, the system of sliding halves of the working plane is used.

Fixation of the product is performed using stopping stops. To install them in the table there are holes. A well thought-out design allows you to fix even a round blank.

The presence of a longitudinal groove in the tabletop (besides with an adjustable width), allows you to cut flat products without relying on the edge, which requires the presence of an assistant holding a free side. Cuts can be maintained in the middle, with the help of electric jigsaw, controlling both halves of the workpiece.

Such tables can be supplemented with an electric plane, circular saw or milling machine, which expands the capabilities.

A similar folding workbench can be made of wood. True, stability will not be like a stationary product.

And yet it is impossible to perform full joinery on such fixtures. First, the apartment is not too for this adapted. Secondly, the size of folding workbenches limit the dimensions of the processed products.

Therefore, most of the masters responsibly suitable for their work - the homemade carpentry workbench of full-fledged sizes will prefer the shop universal table.

In addition, the finished machine does not provide for the individual characteristics of the master:

• Growth, length of hands;
• Is a master of left or right;
• Preferences in the products being processed - the tabletop can be square or rectangular;
• Features of the room or the site of the use of the workbench.

How to make your own hands universal carpentry workbench

Before you look for a project or develop a drawing of the workbench of your own design, it is necessary to understand how the system works. I want to have a platform for cutting large blanks, and a milling mill, and a drilling machine.

IMPORTANT! Any versatility worsens the specialized features of the product. Some devices are still better to use in the form of separate devices.

Joiner's workbench

Constructions There are a great set, but the main components must be present.

Washmarket workbench is a working desk with a wide range of destination. It allows for clearance, repair, electrical work, processing of various materials. The workshop should be in any domestic workshop. The masters prefer to design it with their own hands to make the most convenient for themselves.

Composite parts of fixtures

• nuts and screws;
• fire and hammer;
• paint with brush.

The lockable workbench device is a rigid metal base (made of corners or a square tube). To arrange a worktop, it is better to use a 50-millimeter bar. The steel plate with a thickness of up to 6 mm is stuffed on top of it. To fasten all metal parts, use welding, but you can also screw the bolts.

Installation of the workbench frame and base-top

Before proceeding directly to the assembly, look attentively on the prepared drawing. Make sure that the size of the future workbench fit into the size of the room where your plumbing tool will stand (garage, shed or workshop). Installation of the table begins with the creation of a frame:

1. Cut 4 legs of the same size from the corner.
2. Connect them at the top of horizontal crossbars from the same material. Use welding. As a result, a rectangle must be rectangle (top view) of the specified size.
3. Additionally, make a rigidity line, once again covering the legs in the same way with horizontal jumpers at an altitude of 15 cm from the floor.
4. If you have a cabinet with boxes from the table of workbench, then you will breed a couple of additional supports for it.

After that, you can start assembling countertops:

• make around the perimeter of horizontal metal crossbar holes for the bolted compound;
• cut the boards along the length of the table;
• put them with each other without cracks and lumen, secure in this position;
• make holes in wood coinciding with holes in the corner.

Council. From the upper side of the opening boards must have extensions. They will deepen bolt caps, so that the wooden surface of the countertop remains smooth.

Final stage assembly workbench

The table top will be ready after the plating with the metal. To do this, simply cut the fragment of the required size from the prepared sheet and secure it on a wood basis with the help of self-samples. Please note that after their screwing in the metal there may be burrs. They should simply write to the file.

If you have provided in the design of the workbench boxes or shelves, take advantage of the simple technology of their manufacture. The usual 15-millimeter plywood will be suitable as the material. Boxes are harvested on screws. One account for about 15-20 pcs. Shelves are easier to attach to the corner, but for the boxes will have to additionally buy guide strips - Salazks. They are welded to the frame.

The same plywood can be seen the side sides of the table and make the screen on its back side. For greater stability, the wizard is recommended to attach rectangles or pieces of corner from below to the supports. In this case will help the welding machine. If necessary, screw the vice to the workbench. Finally, process all steel paint structural elements for metal to avoid rust.

Make a workbench for metal work is not very easy, but it is quite possible if it is responsible to go to the case. But you will make sure that no purchased table is compared in quality with the product collected by your own hands.

How to make a workbench: video

The garage is a multifunction room. It can be installed and repairing cars, design and produce different things and mechanisms.

If a person loves to spend time in the garage, engaged in repair work, you need to properly equip your workplace. The workbench is a multifunction desktop, on which you can process various materials, carry out a plumbing, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think through the shelves and hubled to store tools and other items.

Types of workshops

The workbenches are manufactured for metal processing (plumbing) and wood (carpentry). Disassembled design with tabletop material. Fixer models, the tabletop must necessarily be metallic, since work with the metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that can leave traces on a wooden surface.

Also, when processing metal parts, an effort is often required, the use of a sharp tool, so the best way to equip the workbench with a metal countertop is optimal.

Joiner's workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not so durable and functional as plumbing models.

Workbench design

If the design of the desktop in the garage is made with your own hands, then first of all it is necessary to thoroughly think over every detail, estimate where the tools will be placed, which work will be carried out on the workbench. From this, the model of the table in the garage depends.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for a suspended tool that will always be at hand. But the most important thing is the workbench should be sustainable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and grinding disk.

Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding works.

2. Screwdriver.

   Electrolovka for cutting plywood.

Materials

Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square pipe 60 mm per 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Corner 40 mm per 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip width of 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 8 m.

Steel sheet for table top 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making holders for drawers. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for table top. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for making boxes and for side and rear wall walls. Thickness 15 mm

Guides for table boxes.

Screws for assembling boxes from plywood.

Self-tapping screws.

Anchor bolts.

Paint on wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made of these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm. The overall design and a large tabletop allow you to be placed in different ends of the table of vice and, for example, emery or other tool.

The first step of making a workbench is a cutting material on elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of a frame. Steel corner is designed to create rigidity ribs. It is cut into parts and a force frame is formed from it. Also, the steel corner is needed for edging the countertops to which the boards will be laid.

The steel band is intended for the manufacture of the guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for fastening boxes and plywood.

Table boxes are made of plywood.

The second step is welding the power frame of the workbench. The first table top elements are welded - 2 pipes with a length of 2200 mm and 2 pipes of 750 mm. The frame must be welded so that it was possible to spend another frame from the corners to be used to it, which will be stacked by the countertops. For the reinforcement, the countertops are required after 40 cm. Navigate a few more steel pipes that will perform the rigid rib function.

Then the sidelines along the edges of the workbench are welded. Their length is 900 mm. Between the legs, power jumpers strengthening the design are welded.

After the base frame is ready, you can proceed to the welding of the design for the boxes. For this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which from two sides are welded to the tabletop. Frames are enhanced by longitudinal rigids.

Third step - making frame for table top. Two steel corners, a length of 2200 mm and two more corners with a length of 750 mm, are needed for the manufacture of a frame. The design is welded so that the board of wood lay inside it.

The frame from the corner is stacked on the frame of the pipes and welded. A reinforced tabletop is obtained, 8 cm height with internal rigidity ribs.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to cook the panel shawl for fastening the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners having a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the design and two in the middle, for amplification. The toolbar is welded to the tabletop.

Frame from corners and pipes is ready. It can be proceeded to strengthen the design. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from the steel strip. Total need 24 details. The hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. With these holes, the side and rear walls of the table from plywood will be attached to the metal frame of the workbench.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of table boxes. Plywood is cut into billets that twist screws. The number of boxes depends on what will be stored in the table. If small parts, then you can build 3 drawers if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

You can arrange drawers on the two sides of the table, you can mount the retractable structures on one half of the half, and on the second - the usual open shelves.

After the hubled is collected, you need to fight between the sidewalls of departments for drawers metal strips with holes. Slasons for guide boxes will be attached to these holes from the inside.

Fifth stage - laying boards in the framework of the tabletop. 50 mm thick boards are manifested on a blank defined length. If there is a long board in stock, then you need three blanks with a width of 245 mm and a length of 2190 mm. If there are no long boards in the presence, you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm width is manifested on 10 blanks of 740 mm long.

Before putting wood into the frame frame, it needs to be treated with antiseptic solution. It will save the material from rotting and damage to beetles.

Then requires painting the entire metal design of the workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use the weather-resistant and anticarrosion coating option. Especially carefully you need to paint welding seams. Metal and irregularity drops are recommended before painting work thoroughly. This can be done using an angular grinder with a disk for metal grinding.

After the design is driving, you can start laying boards on the worktop. They should not be too tightly drove into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree when changing the temperature and humidity has the properties to expand and dying. It is better to leave a small gap between the boards a few millimeters. The surface of the wood is required to stall, it will simplify the laying of the metal sheet over the tree. Boards all over the perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame on the self-tapping screw.

The sixth stage is the fastening of the top steel sheet. It can be welded to the tabletop, but inside the design there is a tree, which in the welding process can ignite. Therefore, it is best to attach a steel sheet to hidden screws to wooden boards. Pre-metal is required to paint on both sides by the rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paintwork, easily restores me and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint a metal table top of that paint that the frame was covered. It will be beautiful, but with time the paint can scatter and the table will not look too new.

Last stage - installation of boxes on guides and fastening plywood on the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table.This work can be called the finish finish of the workbench. After working with plywood is over, it must be covered with a composition that protects material from environmental impact. Also do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the desired things will be suspended.

In order for the workbench to work conveniently, you can attach a special lamp with a rack with a power shield. In this case, you can send the light stream at the request of the right place.

Video - Workbench manufacturing process

Installation of vice on a plumbing workbench

Thish is an indispensable attribute of a locksmith. Attach the clamping tool, weighing a few dozen kilograms to the table top it is not recommended. It is best between the metal metal and tool to place a metal gasket, 1 cm thick. In the gasket, you need to drill holes for anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill the same in the tabletop the same in the size of the holes. The entire design of the anchor bolts is fastened.

Safety requirements for homemade workbench design

1. If the garage area is not too big, then you can make a table with your own hands for a smaller work. But, it is worthwing to know that the whole design should be stable, not swing and not to move from place with a slight effort.
2. The workplace must be organized so that a person does not prevent anything. When working with vice, all unnecessary tools must be removed from the table top.
3. Corners and protruding table details should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
4. After repair work, it is necessary to remove the workplace from metal chips, droplets of oil and other materials.
5. If the homemade workbench is made correctly, it can easily withstand the load of 200 kg.

Plywood for shield

Video - workbench in the garage do it yourself

I want to cook in the garage of the workbench. Flooring, as in the workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpe, and fasten the tisks, and fold tools in the boxes.

Managed to visualize their intentions. Long moved different layout options and prevented the dimensions. I think I found an optimal option for myself.

Blue indicates metal parts, yellow - wooden.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, condensed with a 60x50x4 corner and covered with a metal sheet 2mm. The framework of the workbench will be welded from the profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffness ribs will be cooked from the corner 40x40x4. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm thick boards. From the 40x4 strip will be made guides for fastening side panels. Boxes will be welded from metal 2mm and installed on powerful sleds.

To purchase a metal, we agreed with wild on two to order a gazelle to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 am, so as not to stretch it for the whole day, went to the metal base.

The weather was slimy and cold wind. Loader in Rvan Army Bushlak, which suffered from a hangover syndrome, pulled a wet metal for cutting. A dirty carrying was lying around in the pool with a grinder connected to it. Sliced \u200b\u200bpieces of metaloprinkate spacked into a slushful puddle. Nearby expected ordered Gazelle. Light.

Do not consider me by the maniac, but after arriving in the garage, I soap water and wiped dry chumased chumased pieces of fresh metal. All the same it is brushing it before painting, and so it will be more pleasant to work with him.

At that severe January morning were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
A total of 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook your workbench.

The cutting of the main parts of the carcass took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 cooked parts.
On the tags it is indicated that it is and where to weld it.

Now you can safely postpone everything in a long box and surrendered to the thick silent sticky bog of everyday irresponsive routine.

Cooked brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.

And the base is welded for homemade countertops.

Coarse the bases for the table top welded flush with the corner. For this, curly cuts are made in cross-cuts. Here is a small sherchezh, as it looks like:

In the meantime, the brackets of the toolbar.

Lining from 4mm bands strengthened loaded joints.

I welded 24 bracket for side panels. Panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal, and look better.

Brackets give the extra rigidity of the entire design.

I want to cover the tabletop with a sheet of metal 4mm or 5mm. On Moscow Prospekta there is a reference, which metal sheets immediately cut into size. I need a sheet of 2200x750.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then two good pieces will remain (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired dimensions.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b] let's cooperate, and then one is expensive.

From 15mm plywood made drawers. Collected 80mm on screws. In each drawer for 20 screws. It turned out firmly as I love.

Size of each box 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

Salazki fucked welding. He learned to weld a tin 1mm to a 4mm 3mm electrode strip on a current 100 amner. It is how to put in the kitchen processor automotive engine V8 of 3 liters. Just the tig was lazy to discourage. Moreover, it is so secure.

Now I think over different options for facades.

On this welding stage ended. Ahead is carpenter and paint. More little things, plumbing and electrically conductive.

Painting of the carcass homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to advise good paint.
- Wah, what good paint, my mother swear! - He replied stretching the bank of paints on rust with a metal crumb for 500 rubles.

She covered the table top with a cutting board of 150x40. Crepeled boards to a frame of self-drawing 4.0x35. In total, the 60 self-tapping screws.

A bit polished the surface to lay the metal tightly.

Polit about protecting wood from fire. In impregnated wood cannot support burning itself.
When heated with impregnated wood, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits oxygen access to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation stated the I group of flame retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, it does not allow cooking metal directly on the surface of the workbench. The boards still do not light up, then you work. To organize a welding post, I plan to cook a removable grille that reliably protect the surface of the table top from the thermal exposure.

After drying, I will cover the table top of the already harvested sheet of metal 4mm.

She covered a tabletop 4mm sheet metal. The sheet pulled to a wooden basis with a row of screws with a hidden head. The table top turned out to be monumental.

10mm plywood shields covered extra openness in the workbench frame.
In the photo the paint shop.

Prescribed permanent tenants on the table top - a grinding machine and vice. They are lost on a hefty countertop.

1) What is better to cover your bare metal on the table top? I tend to the rust converter, which will create a solid protective film and which is easy to update if necessary. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) where to take a durable chair with an adjustable height?

P.S. I think that reading this branch will be interested - the Bourgeois site with a bunch of welded tables and other welders: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ You can find the process of manufacturing the entire presented.

Nevertheless decided and smeared the tabletop Rust converter. It is necessary to smear a thin uniform layer.

While the countertop slowed down with shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, it was not a bad idea to smear the countertop. The film really turned out, as if the lacquer was covered. True, it is not very accurate, but it is really easily restored - because The film is easily dissolved by the new portion of the converter and rewinds hiding all the old damage.

From the big one - there is a panel for instruments and place fasteners on it for the whole-only one.
I want to hang the sheet of plywood or one-piece furniture shield with a thickness of 15 mm and the size of 2.2 meters x 1 meter. If anyone has such, I propose an exchange for a metal sheet of 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (remained from the tabletop).

Well, in fact, then for what ...

Test passed

Class! It is no longer necessary to use the manual power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and roulettes on all accessible shelves and catches around and looking for them, forgetting where to put it - everything is in one place and at hand.

Mounted tool panel. Whole, of 21 mm plywood.

4 corner 50x50x4 plus plywood 21mm plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals tens of kilograms of tools without fearing something break

Facades for boxes made 21st plywood

That's all.
Dream workbench is ready. Sometimes something came out curved, but I am very pleased with the result.

The weight of the workbench net exceeded 200 kilograms. Table tops 1.65 square meters, area of \u200b\u200btoolbar 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right Tumb is almost one cubic meter. The peculiarity of the workbench is that you can sit when working with a tig, and a 4mm metal sheet-covered table top is not afraid of mechanical damage. Spacious shelves, boxes and panels allow you to conveniently store almost all the tool available with me, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here is such a homemade dream workbench.
I think there will work my great-grandmothers on it.

P.S. And after a small refinement, a great make-up table is obtained)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/16464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put a bold point in the project some more photos.

Self-tapping screws and twisted quickly and easily (if there is a screwdriver, of course).

Over time, brought wrenches, holders for drill and screwdrivers, bracket for paper towels, and additional lighting. The benefit that two square meters there is where to turn around. The thing I smeared awesome. Satisfied Aki Elephant.

First, small vice did not stand the load and burst.

Instead, more powerful vice are installed. On one side, they had a five-pointed star, on the other - the figures 1958 - probably, the year of release. It turns out, they are 56 years old? I hope they will serve me as much. In general, good vice is the pride of the master.

It can be seen in the photo that the tabletop repels not much beyond the size of the walls. Therefore, when fastening the pisses to the bolts it will not work out to be cut down to tighten the nut. I thought so. Things and sharpened on the tabletop using anchor bolts. It looks neat and keeps deadly.

Secondly, it turned out that deep boxes in the right tamba are not very comfortable. It was better to make their smaller size. I will invent some organizers inside them.

The rest turned out to be a great thing. All tools in one place, in sight and are always ready. On the big tabletop also there is where to decompose.

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