Repairs Design Furniture

How to close the joints. How to close the seams between the panels on the ceiling: choose what to close the seams between the panels, the work process. Materials and tools

Tsugunov Anton Valerevich

Reading time: 4 minutes

It often turns out that even in perfect room form laying the linoleum without a single joint is impossible due to the standard size of the material. The seds obtained should be not only inconspicuous, but also durable so that the coating does not work out with time. Special attention requires a linoleum jack between rooms, because it is in this place that the load on the seam is especially high. To select a suitable way of connecting the coating, it is worth considering the possible options for holding the joint and fixtures used for these purposes.

Options for connecting linoleumum

Linoleum junctions can be sealing in several ways. They differ both the complexity of the work carried out and the cost of materials and tools. In this case, the quality of the final result will also be different.

  • Fixing the edges of the coating with the help of bilateral tape. This method is good cheap and simplicity. But the reliability of the join joint in this case will remain in question - the glued edge of the coating will quickly begin to turn.
  • The use of spills and lining for linoleum. Another inexpensive way, while quite reliable. The only minus is such an element will differ from the rest of the coating and slightly drink over the floor surface.
  • Bonding edges with dispersion glue. Such compositions used also for gluing the material to the rough surface, environmentally friendly, but do not provide complete sealanting of the seam.
  • . For monolithic compound, the coating bands uses glue, melting edges and after drying firmly fastening them. It is possible to work with it at home, suitable for both domestic and commercial linoleum.
  • . It is carried out with the help of a special cord from PVC, which melts under the influence of high temperature and fills the seam, firmly melting with the edges of the coating and forming a single integer with them. The method is applied to the commercial type of linoleum, is quite complicated for self-execution. The connection is invisible.

Let us dwell on how to close the joints of the household linoleum with the help of decorative springs.

What is the linoleum jacks

The thresholds in the doorway connecting the joints of the floor materials between the rooms are a simple and cheap way that allows you to fix the edges of the coating, hide the seam and possible deficiencies in the installation.

Pluses of the method:

  1. Fix the thresholds are very easy with the help of screws or glue "liquid nails" directly to the rough floor.
  2. You can use the lining repeatedly, it is easy to replace.
  3. Planck will protect the material from moisture, dust and dirt under it.
  4. It will last product for a long time, especially if made of metal. The competent selection of the color gives this element practically unconscious.
  5. The threshings carry a decorative function - the design of the room will look after the completed.
  6. If you decide to lay different coating thick on a single-level floor, the cover on the seam will help smooth the difference between them.

But the thresholds have their own minuses:

  1. The bar will write down (albeit slightly) above the floor surface.
  2. The threshold can be mounted only in the doorway either under the arch, the seams in the middle of the room is impossible to hide this way.

When installing the thresholds, you need to remember that they should not interfere with the complete closure of the doors - the edge of the canvase will have to be written or installed after the finishes of the floors.

Types of browel

Close the joints of linoleum pieces with each other or with another flooring can be different in purpose and material with lining.

Depending on the design and method of use, there are the following types of thresholds:

  • Straight - for linoleum junctions of the same thickness.
  • Multi-level - compensate for the height differences on the floor, with their help the coating of different thicknesses can be shrink.
  • Finishing - to close the edges of the linoleum without connecting to other materials.
  • Corner - for the design of seams and edges of the floor covering on the stairs.

Planks are made from different materials:

  • Metal brands made of brass and aluminum are most popular, since the compound is solved, aesthetic and durable. Most often painted under bronze, gold or silver.
  • Plastic thresholds have a smaller service life, but some flexible models can be applied to design rounded joints, and products price is much lower. These requirements are spelled out in GOST 19111-77, which refers doorways to semi-rigid products. In the photo below, the flexible bar performs several functions: zonizes the room space and hides the thickness of the floor coverings.
  • Rubber lining may have an aluminum base, interfere with slipping.
  • Wooden boards and planks from MDF are rarely used due to high cost and tendency to swelling from moisture.
  • Cork products are popular due to its ecology, softness and long service life. Perform compensation and amortization function.

How to mount overlays on the coating joints

Self-timeline or glue can be used for fixing slats. Choosing a fastening method, you need to take into account the features of both methods:

  • Installation on the self-tapping screw is much more reliable, in products with a decorative plug, the fasteners are not visible.
  • The glue cannot provide such a strong connection, but is suitable for cases when the draft floor is loose and can not keep screws.

About how to stick to the tile in the corners, knows every homemade craftsman, who first started facing. And only with experience is born to understand that in the construction of perfectly direct corners does not exist, and therefore laying of the tile is not at all as simple as it may seem at first glance. Over the years, true skill comes, and it turns out that ways to place both outer and the inner corner is not one, not two, but much more. And each of them has the right to exist, and may be the only true situation in a certain situation.

First of all - layout!

And the facing of any room with layout begins, since in typical apartments there are not only perfectly straight corners, but also there are no perfectly smooth walls. Master Tiler thoroughly freeze the room, evaluates the condition of the walls, floor, inspect the angles to select a method for designing each. It is from what method of docking the tiles in the outer and in the inner angles will be selected depends:

  • selection of a tool for performing work;
  • the number of tiles purchased over the norm pro reserve;
  • actually, layout itself.


Basic layout rules

The layout starts from the surface that will be most noticeable. For example, the bathroom is a wall located opposite the front door. It is laid out first, and then the walls adjacent to it. The temptation to start lining from the corner is great, but if it succumbs, almost guaranteed in the corners and under the ceiling will appear slit, sometimes width of several centimeters, which will have to be laid out with tiny trimming. As a result, the deviation of the wall from the vertical will be very noticeable, and the impression of the wizard will remain at the customer extremely negative. Therefore, making layout, you need to follow certain rules:


How to dock tiles in inner corners

Options to issue an internal angle quite a bit. You can do this in such ways:

  • with a patch (trim)
  • registration of the usual seam without additional details.

Corner design with a plastic profile

This option is used in internal vertical angles, as a rule, beginner masters. With the experience, it comes to understanding that the plastic part, rarely ideally coinciding in color with, rather hesitably, than the interior decorates. An exception to the rules is the use of trimes in the junction of the floor and wall coating. Here almost always the corner is appropriate and desirable. Do not like plastic corners in the bathroom and the hostess - for the fact that they are rapidly polluted, but it is much more complicated by tiles.

Simple pairing 2 rows tiles

Independent docking tiles in the inner corner has obvious advantages. First, the corner is decorated in this way look more organically, especially in small rooms. Secondly, this method does not require additional details that increase the repairs even more.

Of course, there is a simple pairing method and disadvantages. This is the professionalism of the master as a necessary condition and the high probability of formation of cracks on the seam due to the natural tile tendency and narrowing and expansion. Especially often such a problem occurs when plasterboard structures are facing, but on brick walls, it is a big rarity.

Prevention of formation of cracks serve:

  • the correct calculation of the width of the seam;
  • use in vertical inner angles of sanitary silicone.

Important! Registration of the inner corner without using a patch and without decoration of the seam is unacceptable! The result of this laying will be the black slot on the junction. Fix the appearance can be only silicone. But pick it up exactly in the tone of the grout is hardly possible.

How to dock a tile in the outer corners

There are many more ways to arrange an external angle. It:

  • use of trimov and;
  • technology trimming ends tiles at an angle of 45 °;
  • simple laying of one row of tiles on the edge of another;
  • the formation of an angle by grouting.

Method 1. Using angle-trim for laying out outer angles

Today, stores offer a wide range of angular profiles for laying tiles. They are made of plastic, aluminum and even brass and can be of a variety of colors and sizes. The amount of the corner must be chosen, based on the thickness of the selected tile, which is usually 7, 9 or 11 mm.

Interestingly, in most European countries, trimes are used everywhere, due to the ease of the method of designing angles. In Russia, the mass fashion at the corners slowly, but correctly goes to a decline over a number of reasons:

  • the desire to be not like everyone else;
  • the small size of most apartments in which the extra details in the facing will crush the room, visually making it even less;
  • the briefness of plastic trimes, and their high tendency to pollution;
  • high cost of metal corners;
  • the emergence of new, more aesthetic methods of facing the outer angles.

Installing angle-trim

Installation of a decorative corner is made after one wall in the room will be fully lined. Then a silicone sealant is applied at the entire height of the angle with the assembly pistol. A smooth side of trim is applied to the already laid tile, and the grooves of the part remains freely on the adjacent wall. In the future, the tile is laid on this wall below, and the edge of the facing material is inserted into the groove of the corner. A day after the end of the work of the seam between tiles and trim are rubbed. Similarly, the installation of a decorative element and in the corners arranged horizontally.

Method 2. Subsum edge tiles at an angle of 45 °

If on the question "how to connect the tile in the outer corners?" The master replies: "Of course, at an angle of 45 °!" - Before you a real professional. Just because this method of novice is not on the teeth, because it requires experience, hardness of movements and a lot of time. In addition, it is not necessary to do without a good tool, namely the angular grinding machine. Work is carried out using a diamond disk. If you need to cut a double firing tile, it is better to use the stanza-type stannel tile.

The disadvantage of such design is the fragility of the angle of the corner. It is worth only to knock on the edge of the masonry, and with a huge probability of the tile will have. However, the methods of the method are ready to put up with it, because no other way of registration of the angle does not give such a harmonious result: the beveled edges are perfectly joking with each other, and form an ideal straight angle with thin, barely noticeable gap.

Method 3. Laying one row of tiles on the edge of another

This reception is good for beginner masters, because it does not have anything complicated. At first, one wall is completely laid out with a facing material, then another, the extreme tile of which is simply overlaps the edge of the tiles laid perpendicularly. Very often, this method of laying is chosen for laying tiles with relief, because in most cases it is chosen, yielding to the view that the seams, joints and irregularities of the walls will be not so noticeable on the textural surface. This is true, as the fact that relief is very difficult to docile in the corners.


Another kind of laying method is in disintegration: in the first row on top there is a tile of one wall, in the second - the other, and so on. Very often, this method is used when lining rooms. As a result, the masonry turns out deliberately negligent, most relevant in the interiors in the style of country or loft.

Method 4. Angle formation using grouting

Its essence: laying of tiles without trimming and without protrusion to the outer corner. The obtained gap is drawn up in the form of a semicircle with the help of grouting or other adhesive compositions. It must be recognized, the reception is still unpopular, both among the masters and among the customers. Although it allows you to solve a common problem: eliminate the fragility of the outer angle and prevent the seam cracking, especially common on plasterboard walls. Therefore, how to close the joints in the corners with the help of grouting, any master tiler should know.

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How to dock the tiles in the corners

When repaired in the apartment, one of the most complex sites is the ceiling. Due to the shrinkage of the house, seedings or movement of the soil between the ceilings, cracks of different depths are formed. Create a beautiful view of the interior with the slots in the ceiling will not be able, therefore, the seams have seal between the slabs of the overlap. The procedure is performed manually, but has a number of features.

Tools and materials

Seaming seams on the ceiling will require the preparation of the tools and material. They should be prepared before the start of ceiling work with plates.

Spatula with flexible elastic blade

What to close the seams on the ceiling between the plates? For this type of work requires:

  • smart penetration is better. The soil is intended to improve the adhesion of the concrete surface and the material that it is planned to close the slots;
  • cement brand NC, it is used to eliminate deep recesses. The main difference from the standard composition is the ability to expand and fill the holes in the process of frost;
  • for wide cracks, thermal insulation material will be useful, the filler is a construction foam, polyurethane or foamed polyethylene;
  • shtclow with elastic material (latex);
  • sealant;
  • reinforced grid with a width of 4-5 cm if the crack width allows you to put the metal base inside;
  • start and finishing shtquet.

Processing the ceiling, like the floor, walls, you will need basic electrical appliances. The type of tool depends on the technologies of seams of seams, usually enough:

  • various values \u200b\u200bof spatulas;
  • metal brush;
  • pulverizer;
  • building knife;
  • perforator, it is easy to replace a drill with a shock mode;
  • emery paper.

What instruments will be useful to us

Before close the joints of the plates on the ceiling, you should take care of individual security: glasses for eye protection, respirator, comfortable gloves and overalls.

How to remove seams on the ceiling: preparatory stage

Before pressing the seams on the ceiling, it is important to carry out the stage of preparation of the coating. The surface should be solid, primed. Any coatings with weak fixation are better removed: old shpotelka, paint, wallpaper, cement, lime, etc.

The seaming of seams of slabs of overlapping is better carried out in a clean room (after a wet cleaning). In order to achieve the best adhesion and the normal flow of mineralization of the working solution, it should be dry in the room. Upper the purified surface of the ceiling is applied soil.

Before moving to the application of the subsequent layer, it is important to wait for the frozen of the previous one. The amount of time depends on the temperature and type of material.

Work with a wide shame

If there are shallow cracks between the slabs of overlapping with a width of 3 cm better use the filler, the mounting foam.


SPA repair is a rather time-consuming work that it is necessary to perform scrupulously, otherwise then the bad work will be visible

How to close the seam between the plates on the ceiling with a foam? For this:

  1. A mounting gun and foam filled with a hole.
  2. Expect foam drying, usually takes about 2-4 hours.
  3. Building knife All protruding parts are removed, it is better to make a remission of several millimeters for better grasp, but the depth should not exceed 5 mm.
  4. The deepening is treated with an elastic splock. It is convenient to use the material with 2 spatulas: narrow and wide. A mixture is stored on a wide tool, and a pinner is made by a narrow spatula.
  5. Shutters on the ceiling with a wide spatula, removing surplus and other defects.

Work with a wide joint

If you have to close the seam between the plates on the ceiling with a width of over 3 cm and relatively big depth, you should not apply a foam.

Work algorithm:

  1. Filling the excavation with thermal insulation material. For the goal, foamed polyethylene and polyurethane foam is suitable.
  2. Fixing the insulation using sealant, with maximum resistance to moisture.
  3. After sealing the crack, the slit is close to the CEMENT of the NC, but leave a small groove with a depth of 5 mm.
  4. After complete frosting of cement from above, a latex variety of shtaplovka is applied, it align the plane of the plate.
  5. The spatula eliminate the excess layer of pre-putty and smash as much as possible.

Instead of foam to close in deep cracks, you can take glue for ceramic tiles

Work with deep and narrow butt

Close up narrow, but deep seams between overlap plates are better than a similar method as in the previous case.

How to close the seams on the ceiling between the plates? This sequence of work is:

  1. A sealant is applied to a slice of insulation, it is placed inside the grooves. The material should be tightly shook into the recess.
  2. After high-quality tamping, the insulation should remain about 1 cm deep for making the Cement of the NC. It is important to leave the recess of 5 mm.
  3. The frozen cement solution is caused by latex putty, it is aligned with a spatula.

The following steps

Seaming seams between panels does not end in previous steps. It is important to perform the entire processing complex so that defects are not manifested in the future. Otherwise, when the soil moves, the base of the building seams of the overlap will crack, all work will be vain.

The cause of the appearance of the slots can be the incorrect calculation of the load on the design or neglect of construction technology, which is why the building gives shrinkage. It is important at the stage of construction of the house to consider the weight of the insulation of the house and lay the water supply in advance to prevent the destruction of the bearing walls and the foundation subsequently.


Latex putty. To close the seams, it is such a putty

The protection of the joints between the slabs of the ceiling of destruction is performed in stages:

  1. Wait for the pouring of the latex putty, complete drying takes about 2 days.
  2. Preparation for recessing. Apply the starting layer of the putty, it is placed with a small protrusion for the edges of 4-5 cm.
  3. A reinforcing grid is pressed into the material, the roller is suitable or a narrow spatula.
  4. The spatula is passing along the putty to remove excess.
  5. After pouring the material, the surface of sandpaper with small or medium grain should be treated.
  6. The re-applying of the starting putty will help create an ideal plane, stripping performed fine-grained emery.
  7. The finishing plated coating is applied from above.
  8. After frozen, repeatedly processed by sandpaper.
  9. The final stage is painting or pasting the ceiling.

Plastering

If parallel with the sutured seams on the ceiling there is a significant slope in any direction, it is worth aligning it. The best way is the plaster formulations, the installation of the mesh is preceded by the installation. The entire working surface is covered with ground concrete contact, in its composition there are solid, large particles to improve adhesion with concrete. To cover the ceiling prepared composition of cement with plaster.


Seams on the ceiling most often close up simultaneously with the repair of the entire ceiling

Close up hole

Due to ignoring construction rates on the ceiling, a marriage may appear, one of the most dangerous - hole. Sealing ceiling seams between the plates is performed by one of two methods.

The first way:

  1. A brush with an elongated handle is performed cleaning the hole from the inside.
  2. It is important to remove the rash dust by creating a solid grip, for this, the pulverizer with the soil is thoroughly sprayed the entire surface.
  3. Inside the mounting foam is blown in.
  4. After complete pouring, plots with excess material with a sharp knife are cut.
  5. Cut the recess in the form of a cone with a height of 4-5 cm.
  6. The deepening is close to the cement of the NC brand and wait for the simplicity of the material.
  7. The surface is aligned with a layer of shovetkes, and the sulfur grid is stacked.
  8. Subsequent operations do not differ from the seams of the seams on the ceiling between the plates.

There is a second method of sealing stoves of floor slabs with holes:

  1. Create an improvised frame, which is addicted to the hole, is placed inside the defective area. You can use any metal wire.
  2. Fake fixation is performed using a sealant, it is better to use the maintenance of plumbing and walls in wet premises. If the purpose of the material is wet walls, the application for repairing the ceiling more often leads to a better result.
  3. After frozen in the cavity, the lattice is obtained, it will provide a strong fixation of the solution.
  4. The mixture of the NC solution is prepared, you can use the classic composition, but it is better to add an additive that will improve the decaying of the solution. So that cement does not fall on it back to the bottom of the plywood.
  5. Phaneur from the bottom is fixed by the backup, it will hold the cement in the desired position until drying.
  6. The wooden shield is removed only after the frozen, then the finish finish is carried out.

The most important thing is to strictly observe the sequence and be attentive

Bug between wall and ceiling: Methods of sealing

It is characteristic of the presence of not only notable joint defects between the slabs of the overlap, but also the walls. It will not be possible to separately separate the surface without eliminating cracks.

  • construction foam;
  • gypsum solution;
  • synthetic style;
  • plate for outdoor work.

The easiest and most effective material is a foam, which in the process of frosting expands and fills emptiness.

If the jokes are quite large, it is worth taking care of further protection against cracking. Preventing the appearance of cracks will help the reinforcing mesh, alternative materials - cotton, linen fabrics that are impregnated in adhesive solution. Fabrics are stacked over the hole. At the final stage, the layer of plaster is stacked.

What to do if joints are visible on the ceiling: final surface alignment

Regardless of the method of deleting defects, it is important to create a high-quality finish coating. Abrasive mixtures are used to align the surface.


The process of applying latex putty

To create an ideally smooth and smooth surface, it is recommended to use Flizelin. It is placed on the ceiling until the finish layer of the putty. The material contributes to the elimination of small irregularities.

It is important to cover the ceiling of the ground after the final layer of alignment, it will help prevent the destruction of the coating and increase the durability of the plated layer. Now you can paint the ceiling, sack or blame.

Building construction and creating an attractive appearance is a comprehensive task that requires accounting for many factors:

  • creating a reliable base will prevent the appearance of cracks at the corners and between slabs of overlaps. Before it is important to carefully conduct preparatory work: the study of the soil, studying the level of soil freezing, the creation of proper marking and tamping surface. Provides a service life up to 150 years, only when the laying technology is followed;
  • to preserve heat in the room it is necessary to eliminate the leakage of thermal energy through the floor. One of the best ways -;
  • in high-rise buildings, it is better to study the slab plan for overlapping, it will help determine the potential vulnerable designs and eliminate them at the repair stage;
  • in the construction of housing it is better to use composite concrete, it is distinguished by high technical characteristics and is absolutely safe for health;

  • working with concrete during the cold season with the standard composition of cement is unacceptable by the manufacturer, but not all companies are ready to stop construction for the winter. So is it possible to pour concrete in winter? - Yes, but it will takes the addition of special mixtures into the composition or electrical heating of concrete;
  • if it is planned to build a house of aerated concrete, be sure to reinforce every 2-3 rows. Lay fittings inside block recesses that creates a strokeshes for aerated concrete;

Holes of various dimensions are supposedly supplied with the proper compliance with technology. It is recommended to choose one of the existing ways to eliminate ceiling defects, they are easy to use and durable.

Such troubles like the formation of slots between the ceiling slabs on the ceiling, or simply the manifestation of once not entirely sealed seams, very often found in panel high-rise buildings. Therefore, at the first signs of such phenomena, you need to take action. And for this you need to own information, how to close the seams between the panels on the ceiling yourself, without resorting to the challenge of the finishing specialists.

If the apartment is located on the last, the upper floor, and the gap between the plates appeared on the ceiling, then the probability is not excluded that soon it will begin to drip, and this means that in the rooms there may be a resistant smell of dampness and spots of mold or fungus, but besides , heat will quickly leave the room. These circumstances are particularly unpleasant during the cold months of the year. Therefore, in a similar case, the repair must be started from the revision of the roof, since if you do not cope with the flaws of roofing, then close the cracks from the inside and align the ceiling is in vain work.

If the inspection of the Kor of Lyshi suggests that everything is in order with the roof, then you can safely begin repairing the ceiling. In the case when it is found that the waterproofing roofing material has damage, then first is necessary to take steps Its repairs, for example, replace the regteroids, which usually cover the roof in high-rise buildings with a flat "soft" roof.


However, seams can crack not only on the upper floors, but also on any other. This is a normal consequence. Shrinkage processes at home.

So, making sure that no external factors spoil t.eminent work on the sealing of the ceiling seams, you can proceed to the repair activities inside the apartment.

Seaming seam on the ceiling

If a small crack formed between the slabs, then it should be started with its expansion. It often happens that the process of cutting even a small crack or slot suddenly opens the "big horizons" of work. Therefore, since the hands reached this repair event, it needs to be done immediately on conscience, in full, to no longer return to this issue for a long time.

If you wish to solve two issues at once - seam sealing and ceiling alignment, it is necessary to clean the entire seam from the old concrete. Usually, it is not difficult to do it, since it is not too durable cement mortar for the sealing of the seams.

Materials and tools

In order not to repeat the mistakes of the masters, who during the construction of the house worked on the seams of ceilings without proper effort, you need to purchase high-quality materials and all the tools you need. It is not easy to smell, but gently suture the seam and thoroughly compact it during the sealing.

So, starting work must be purchased:

1. From the tools you will need an average, wide and narrow spatula, a spatter, a narrow metal brush, a wide brush, a container for kneading a solution, a construction knife and a drill with a perforator.

2. Close the slots can be used using different materials, and it is worth lifying all that can be useful.

  • The primer on the concrete of deep penetration is necessary for the best adhesion of the surface and the material that the joint between the plates will be placed.

  • NC, which is designed for sealing deep seams. This material has a property to expand when solidification, fueling tightly all the space of seams and joints.
Cement "NC" - perfectly suitable for sealing seams
  • When a wide seam is detected, which requires sealing, it is necessary to purchase dense insulating materials made of polyurethane or foamed polyethylene. Instead, mounting foam can be used.
  • It will take a latex elastic putty.
  • Request required. Its width will depend on the width of the seam - the tape should go beyond its borders at 40 ÷ 50 mm on both sides.
  • For final finishing, the primary and finishing putty for the entire ceiling area will be required.

Prices for mixtures for alignment of walls and ceilings

Mixtures for alignment of walls and ceilings

How to close the seams between the panels on the ceiling - we do ourselves

Repair of sews between the slabs of the overlap will surely pull along the attraction of the entire ceiling in order, therefore it is worth starting with the complete cleansing of the surface from paint, whitewings and, possibly, plaster.

  • Using a spray pulverizer, the ceiling is sprayed with water. Better spraying to spend not the entire ceiling immediately, and parts. Well moistage plot is left at 10 ÷ 15 minutes to impregnate, and then remove the old coating using wide and medium spatulas. After that, you can proceed to the next site, where you need to hold the entire procedure first. Such work is carried out until the entire ceiling plane is fully cleansing.
  • After removing the old coating, the owner will immediately see the amount of upcoming work. Usually one room accounts for two or three stoves of the floor slabs. Sometimes they are embedded very inactively and protrude with ugly humps. These bulbs need to be eliminated and make the ceiling perfectly smooth.

To do this, take the perforator, install the desired nozzle on it, switch to the shock mode without rotation, and step by step to free the joint from the old frozen solution.


The junction and stove around it should be completely cleaned, and the slit itself is bold not less than 50 mm.

  • Next, you need to take a narrow iron brush or a wide brush and thoroughly clean the gap from dust and small pieces of concrete.

  • The next step is the processing of the gap of the primer into several layers, each of which should dry. The primer will make a frozen solution that remains inside the joint inside the joint, will not allow to form in it damp and fungus, will provide good contact with repair maker that will be applied later.
  • If the gap between the joints is wide enough and is more than 30 ÷ 35 mm, it means that you first need to fill it with an installation foam. It will fasten well on the primed surface and, expanding, will fill the entire opening.

Frozening, foam will come out of the seam, and when it is completely dry, it is neatly cut off so that the groove in the foil in the foam is in the foam, a depth of 30 ÷ 50 mm, narrowing inward, along the triangle type.

  • If a deep junction was revealed when cleaning, but at the same time narrow, then it is necessary to do as follows.

Choosing a seal from the foamed polyethylene of the desired thickness, on it one side Apply a strip of sealant and refuel into a cleaned and primed joint with a spatula, leaving a place to fill with concrete.

  • Further, the joke is closed with a solution of expanding concrete, but it is necessary to leave a small recess in the junction for expanding the solution and decorative plaster.

Seaming seam concrete solution "NC"
  • After drying the solution or preparation of the groove in the dried assembly foam, an elastic on latex basis is applied to the joint. Work is better to spend, using two spatula - wide and medium or narrow. A solution of a container is gaining to a wide spatula, and the narrow applies it to the joint between the plates, sealing in the seam and leveling to the surface of the ceiling, at the same time removing the excess putty.

  • 2 ÷ days, which will be needed for graze, proceed to the reinforcement of the seams. For this, the spatula on the seam and the ceiling next to it in the strip 50 ÷ 60 mm is caused by a thin layer of putty, fix on it the grid-sickle, pushing it into the solution and removing it excess with a spatula.

  • After drying the seams, the entire ceiling is treated with primer, applying it using a roller. It is better to cover the surface with two layers of composition.
  • When the ceiling is dry, you can proceed to it. First, a thin layer of primary plaster is applied, and after it is burned, the finishing final smooth layer is applied. It is applied with a wide spatula and at the same time recalling to the ideal.

Finish finish - Puttailing ceiling
  • After drying the finish layer, the ceiling can be applied to the paint, whitening, or bold it with wallpaper.

Video: Repair of seams between overlap plates

Sealing holes in the ceiling

Sometimes it happens that, when cleaning the seam from the old solution, it opens not just a narrow slot, but a large hole - a defect of the PLAs of the overlap. In this case, this hole can be seen in two ways.


Sometimes on the ceiling when cutting seams, such a "surprise" may appear

In any case, the first thing to do is carefully clean the inner part of the formed hole. This process is better to carry out a narrow brush.

1. Freeing from the dirt inside the hole, it needs to be well sprayed with a primer. After waiting, when its first layer is dry, you must apply the second.

  • Next, the hole is filled with mounting foam.
  • Then, after it drying and expansion, the excess is cut, and the cone is cut from the inside, in the base of the hole with a hole, and a height of 40 ÷ 50 mm.
  • This neckline is needed to fix the cement mortar in it, which is superimposed by the next step. It rolls up with a spatula and is left until complete burned.
  • Then, to the place where the hole was and around it is 50 ÷ 70 mm, a putty is applied, and the sherryanka mesh is punctured on it, which is pressed into the applied layer of the solution, smoothes and left to dry.
  • Further, the work goes the same as when choking seams.

2. Another sealing method differs from the first, and it is used if the emptiness of a large size has been found in the ceiling.

  • In this case, a piece of plywood will be required (you can use laminate trimming) by approximately 100 mm more than the dimensions of the hole.
  • Then, it is necessary to strengthen the lattice in the hole from the wire, which must be fixed on the sealant or cement solution inside the hole. After drying, the wire solution must be securely fixed inside the opening. The grille will serve for reinforcement for the repair solution, together with which they create peculiar Plate.

Inserting the bulk hole in the ceiling overlap - exemplary scheme
  • A mixed concrete is laid out on the prepared Phaneur, it must be homogeneous and not excessively dense.
  • The plywood area with a solution is lifted and tightly pressed to the hole, so that the solution completely filled the remaining cavity. We'll have to come up with a reliable backup for this peculiar formwork, which will hold it until a complete drying of the repair makeup. For this, a thick branch, a bar or a pyramid of the table and chairs is suitable.
  • After drying out the solution in the opening, the perfectly smooth surface of the ceiling will turn out.
  • Next, you can proceed to work in the order of the entire surface of the ceiling.

Video: Inserting the bulk hole in the slab overlap

It should be noted that the junction between the plates can be easily updated independently. But complete is a fairly difficult job, so it is better to entrust her experienced finishing wizard. However, if there is a desire and confidence in your abilities, and this is quite fulfilled.

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To date, the laminate is the most relevant and demanded flooring, which is used in almost all rooms and premises.

Nevertheless, use it in such rooms as an entrance hall or kitchen is not entirely practical and appropriate. For such rooms, the best option will be a ceramic tile. However, laminate in the kitchen can be used in the dining area, and the rest of the room is laid tiled. And the question arises here: how to close the bog between tiles and laminate (see video below)?

In order for the joke to look neat and beautiful, it needs to be highly hidden. Consider at the same time that the tiles and differ in the thickness. Consequently, they must be laid out on the same level to get a smooth transition. Do not forget to leave between laminate and tiled distance of 0.5 cm so that the tree from different temperatures and humidity can expand or shrink, while not damaging and do not swear.

Installation of browsing

The convenient and most popular way to seal the joint between tiles and laminate is the installation of the thresholds. For the same technology, any joints of floor materials can be closed, for example: between tiles and tiles. To date, you are offered a huge selection of thresholds. They are different in terms of material: plastic thresholds, wooden boards, metal beams or aluminum and others. There are different types and colors. Consider more popular.

Wooden boards

Wooden boards are the most popular, as well as environmentally friendly and most beautiful. They are great for laminate. This can be noticed even by photo. However, with all this, they are inferior in flexibility by plastic threshing. And therefore they are not used with a wavy junction. I would also like to note that wooden springs are whimsally in operation and require special care.

Plastic bridges

For a wave-like joint, the flakmets are perfectly suitable. They are relatively recently on the market, but they quickly become popular and in demand. The thresholds begged well, taking the right shape and protecting the joint from dust and dirt.

Metal brewing

If you want to use a more durable material for the clad, then choose the metal. Metal threshings are perfect for any interior, as you can choose the desired color of the material from the diversity presented in the market. Metal flags can be chosen in the color of laminate or tiles, as well as consider the color option of any interior elements and thereby emphasize the design. If there was a situation that laminate and tile lie at different levels, then in this case you can use a multi-level metal spawning, which will help smooth the difference.

Aluminum and rubber threshing

Aluminum thresholds are used mainly with smooth joints. And for wave-like joints, rubber threshings are better. Will not be much difficulty. This work can be made with your own hands and in just a few minutes. Just do not forget to leave 0.5 cm between materials. To secure the thresholds, it is necessary to make holes in the screed for screws. As a rule, they are sold complete with a spawning. It is enough to fasten the thugs with screws to be fixed.

Fastening of browsing

It happens that there are no screws in the kit. In this case, the flags between tiles and laminate can be secured in a different way. Immediately you need to fill the slot with silicone sealant so that dust and moisture fall into the gap. As an attachment of the thresholds, you can use fastening rails that are screwed by self-drawing to the screed. It is on the fastening rails then the threshings for laminate and tiles are attached. Alternatively, you can use liquid nails.

Flexible threshold or molding

To close the wave-like joints of various materials, you can use the flexible imposition. It is installed on a plastic profile with bulges, with which it is attached to the floor coating. Extra fixation is required with screws. So that the molding was more flexible, before it is installed, it is worth omitting the thresholds in warm water for about 20-30.

Why use thresholds and moldings

Railings or molding is necessary to close the bog between tiles and laminate, and give it an attractive appearance. Also, the bellows prevent dust and moisture from entering, which will save your laminate from the inside. The threshings also hide the narrowing and expansion of the laminate. And also allows zoning space.