5.3 Development process The development process consists of works and tasks performed by the developer. The process includes work on the analysis of requirements, design, programming, assembly, testing, insertion and acceptance of software products. This process can

5.4 Process of operation The operation process consists of works and operator tasks. The process covers the operation of the software product and user support during operation. Since the operation of the software product is commissioned by the system, work

6.4 The verification process The verification process is the process of determining that software products operate in full compliance with the requirements or conditions implemented in previous work. To assess the efficiency of costs and work performed

6.7 The audit process The audit process is the process of determining compliance with the requirements, plans and conditions of the contract. This process can be carried out by two any parties involved in the contract, when one side (auditory) checks the other side

7.1 Management process The management process consists of common works and tasks that can be used by any Party managing the corresponding process (AMI). The administrator is responsible for managing the product, project, works and objectives of the corresponding

7.3 Improvement Process The improvement process is the process of establishing, evaluating, measurement, control and improve any process of software life cycle. Operations of work. This process consists of the following works: 1. Creating a process; 2 Evaluation

7.4 Training process The learning process is the process of providing initial and continued personnel training. Order, delivery, development, operation and maintenance of software products are largely dependent on personnel qualifications.

8.1 Documentation Process 8.1.1 General Provisions The documentation process must be performed in two stages in the sequence shown in Figure 1 in the shaded rectangles. Phased works are not performed simultaneously. At certain stages of work can

4.4. Materials for chasing the decisive element in the appearance of your future product will be, of course, the material. Not only the color of the product depends on its correct choice, but also how the contours will turn out how much the surface will be the surface, will it be possible

4.10. Bukhara chasens Ancient Uzbek metal dishes decorated with elegant chased ornament, now you can meet mainly in museums. But once she was the necessary utensils of every Uzbek home. Every metal dishes had strictly defined

4.11. The machine for the chasing as you have already noticed, the chasing is painstaking art. The chased hammer need to hit the check on the check, so that it squeezes the line of the desired depth on the metal sheet. The blow should be accurate to not disturb the pattern, and not strong, so as not to break the plate.

4.17. The use of artistic chasing is currently an artistic chasing applied in areas of serial or mass production made by casting. Sometimes it can be a small study - the side scheme, underscouncing individual elements of the spending,

Hello, friends!

Briefly tell you, I will show how I did a wall panel "Cat scientist."

He started with a picture in a notebook.

That's how it is so I imagine the "Cat of the Scientist", which in the afternoon and night walks around the chain around. :)

A small delay occurred with eyes. I really wanted green, even bought two jade pebbles in the online store with the "Feline Eye" effect. But then on the collapse, the bluish jewelry juggling from Bus - thought, and why not. Blue-eyed cat will look Creatively. :)

Attached Beads to Watman and increased the picture to the desired one.

Cut cat is not difficult. The form is simple. You can do it on thick rubber or on a bag with sand. It can be coined on a molar substrate, like real masts of chasing. But this method is dirty for the apartment. And this is not so thin work. Therefore, I made a small mandrel. Preparation takes a little time, but to catch a figurine in form is a pleasure.

On the sheet of plywood along the copy, we translate the circuit of the cat and cut down the electroll bison.

The resulting contour is screwed by self-reserves to an unnecessary board (it is better enough - absorbs the sound and pounding more handy). And fill out the contour of the plasticine. Resin, of course, is better, it can be minted with more complex drawings, but for a kitten comes. :)

Cut out a suitable piece of copper sheet. I have a simple roofing copper selling in building markets, a thickness of 0.6 mm. Do not forget to join copper so that it becomes more supple. I'm just annexed on the kitchen stove. I screw the impeded leaf on the shape, retreating 10-20 mm.

Once again check the contour. For convenience, you can circle a marker. And we start quoting quoy, trying to get a three-dimensional image.

At the end of this operation should be approximately so.

We unscrew the screws and remove the copper sheet from the form. During the inquiring, our sheet is lit and become elastic, therefore, it is reviving him and whiten. We must look so much that we do. I clean the copper sheet with a 10% solution of sulfuric or hydrochloric acid. Just for the sake of God is more inactive, the acid is a dangerous thing!

We try out the eyes and come under them the seats. :))

Again, screw the cat on the form and once again knock down the contour. Give even more volume. In fact, turn over the copper blank the great many times (not forgetting to flashes copper, removing the internal stress), achieving the desired result. As they say, there is no limit to perfection, but the kittyra is not presolon, so I will stop at it. :)

Scissors for metal cut out a figurine with a small allowance.

Now we will deal with your eyes. As follows, they should be a little high, so drinking the front of the eye, :)) leaving pupils.

Blue pebbles, in the past life, were beads, so holes are already drilled in them. In which I insert copper wires, drill holes and solder them from the wrong side of the animal skins. :))

They will look like this.

When performing the volume, the main thing is not to overdo the strength of the blow. All the same, plasticine softening resin. And then you can break the copper sheet, as usual in the most prominent place.

I was not upset. I have, on the idea of \u200b\u200bthe nose of the invoice, from a piece of brass. Its that we safely solder into place, closing the flames of inquiring.

From the inside we solder on the back copper wire. There will be a pussy suspension.

The next process will be drunk by pubic fishing remains in the belly of a predator. :))

In the rays of the lamp it looks like this.

Drilling him in the cheeks of the hole and solder the mustache from the copper wire. I think 3 mustache will be enough. :)

One half finished. Get another copper leaf

and repeat everything for another half. Here the process goes backward. Eyes-mustache are not needed. Paws and tail - here is his last name. :)

Two Polkota turned out

which must be connected. To do this, we are serving half and soldering. At the exit we get a whole carcass. :))

Scissors for metal, we compress the unnecessary and "Cat scientist" is almost ready.

It looks very young, so there is a slightly "constituting" it with a sulfur liver.

In fact, I tried to do another procedure over the cat. I really wanted to "strover" him along the contour of brass wire, sort of as he is not so paired, but she sews. Even began the "sewing" process. But I did not like it. Did not calculate the thickness of the wire - thinned. The work is painstaking, and stitches are almost not visible. Thirdly brass wire did not turn under hand. I did not want a copper, the France will be rushed. :)))

On the wall he looks like this.

However, he is naked on the wall hanging. He would have been a fraction of his ... :)))

Purchased a pine furniture shield.

Applied the cat, stated and saw the window with an electroll bison. Retreated a little and saw another one.

From the reverse side strengthened the shield by bars.

With the help of a drill with a metal brush and the simulation a little "aged" shield. I do not recommend repeating this operation in the apartment. A lot of fine wood dust. Clogged everywhere. The vacuum cleaner did not cope with the task. Died. :)

Since I wanted to make a frame with a backlit kitten, bought a transformer and LED tape. The transformer did not find the moment. I had a little "drown" to the tree with the help of the chisel.

I cut out from a brass sheet strip width equal to the thickness of the furniture shield (28mm) and with the help of copper-mammals with the mammal framework. :)))

Connect the inner and external window, so that the small window is raised above the shield for 1 cm. To do this, we cut the brass strips, 7 cm wide and nail it with cloves. First on the outer side of the small window, then on the inside of the shield.

Frame for kittens is almost ready.

It remains to adjust the backlight. We screw the transformer, wires, glue LED tape. The tape is glued very simple. It is already applied to the adhesive layer, like a bilateral tape.

Fix the cat. It is possible on a wire, twine, etc. I have hanging on a steel brass chain. All - the "Cat Scientist". :)

We hide on the wall and check the backlight.

After that, highlight the kittery from the inside. For this, in the back ham, drill the hole. Inside, fix a piece of LED tape and connect to the wiring.

Yes, I almost forgot, I put the switch behind. Now you can switch the panel to the daily and night mode. In daytime, all LEDs are burning, only eyes and a fish bone in the belly are shining at night. :) Although the LEDs are quite durable and economical. On electricity will not ruin. :)

It remains to cover the wooden surface with special oil - wax for garden furniture and the wall of the cat .... :)

If briefly, then, perhaps, everything. There will be questions about the details - I will try to answer. Thanks for attention. Good luck to all in creativity. :)))

P.S. A little bit about sad .......

I will try to summarize the costs:

Copper roofing 0.6 mm Shir.600 mm ___________________ 0.5 p / m _______________ 900 rub.

Brass leaf 0.6 mm Shir.600 mm ____________________ 05 P / m _______________ 1200 rub.

Furniture shield _________________________________________________________ 380 rub.

Wooden rail _____________________________________________________ 115 rub.

Loops for the shield ___________________________________________________________50 rub.

Nails brass ________________________________________________210 rub.

Copper (brass) wire _________________________________________________ 50 rub.

Transformer _______________________________________________________350 rub.

LED tape ___________________________________________________250 rub.

Switch __________________________________________________________________________________30 rub.

Network wire ________________________________________________________35 rub.

Cat's eyes __________________________________________________________100 rub.

Brawn chain _____________________________________________________ 120 rub.

-consumables:

(solder, flux, MAPP - gas, skin, pinks for jigsaws,

sulfur liver, acid, veil, plasticine,

oil-wax, Peumolux, Silicone,

self-tapping screws, screws, marker for metal, etc., etc.) ___________________________1000 rub.

TOTAL: ____ 4 790 rub.

(If I have not forgotten anything ... .. :))

Materials:

Copper Sheet, Copper Wire, Brass Wire, Solder, Scissors for Metal, Lobzik, Gas Burner, Hammers, Brass Chain, Latched Brass, Flux, Plywood, Wood, Plasticine, Silicone

Getting Started with any work, first of all, it is necessary to determine what the nature of the relief should be: high or low, rigid or soft - and solve it through the modeling in a plasticine or clay, depending on the size of the work. Small works are always better to sculpt in Plasticine. Depending on the nature of the relief, the metal is selected for the chasing. The relief can be high, rigid and angular, i.e. with sharp transitions, deepening and heights. In this case, it is better to take the material of the most plastic and greater thickness, for example, a red copper with a thickness of 1 mm. The relief can be high, but soft, without angular and sharp transitions. In this case, you can take less plastic metal, for example, instead of copper - brass, although it is always more pleasant and easier to work with a more plastic material. If the relief is low, you need to take a thin material (up to 0.5 mm), it is easier to dig and simulate small parts.

As mentioned above, the most consumable materials are copper and brass (0.4-2 mm) and aluminum (0.8-3 mm). Then it is necessary to prepare a working picture, that is, the figure, made in one line without modeling with light and shadow. The drawing is preparing for a natural amount with small fields for sticker it on metal. It can be drawn on paper or tracing paper. Then the appropriate plate is cut from the sheet material, so that the drawing is free to be free and the fields of 30-40 mm remained. The fields are necessary for a stronger retention of the plate on the resin in the process of the chasing, especially when the high relief is painted, when the metal is very deformed, it easily bounces on the resin and it is necessary to redouble it, which takes a lot of time. For durable retention of the plate on the resin on it, the angles are bent or beaten the edges around the entire plate by about 6-8 mm (for medium chasing). For example, for flat chasing, made of the contour consumption, you can restrict ourselves to the bending of the corners of the plate, and when it is necessary to raise the relief - it is better to make flashes, that is, bending the edges of the plate around the perimeter.

The size of the box is selected more than the size of the metal plate so that the free field of the resin is left from the edge of the plate to the walls of the box. You can take a box and with a smaller field or almost without a field, but it will subsequently make it difficult to eat the plate from the resin, and it will be worse. The depth of the drawer must correspond to the elevation of the relief: the higher the relief, the deeper must be a box.

When cooking resin as a filler, you need to take a dusty earth or other fillings of fine grinding, but in no case is not large sand, since it is heated in the process of pumping the pumps at the bottom, displacing the resin to the top. Resin loses homogeneity and ceases to fulfill its purpose. Preheat the resin in the box is best with a special electric heater. Box with a resin put on rollers and rushing under an electric heater having a circular thermal insulation and ventilation hood. After a while, when the resin is a bit warm up a little, the box with a resin is removed, the resin is stirred by a hot metal stirrer and again put on heated. If there is no electric heating device, the resin you need to warm up the open flame of the soldering lamp, the gas burner, simultaneously stirring the resin with a hot metal stirrer. During this procedure, it is impossible to allow the resin to ignite and unparalleled, since it loses its plasticity and stickiness.

You should mention another old method of resin warming. Hot wood coals are put on the metal grid, and the box is put in the grid with a resin, coals flared up and float the resin. The distance from the grid to the resin should be small, as the main heat goes up.

While the resin is heated, the metal plate for the chasing is prepared. It should be even, with parallel pencil axial lines, parallel to the sides, and with curved corners or edges. The axial lines are made to properly place the pattern on the metal, since the plates flooded the edge can not be a guideline. When the resin melts, you need to give it for a while so that it stops separating air bubbles. To accelerate this, it is useful for top of the resin to undergo a gas or other burner flame, but not to give it to ignite.

The resin prepared in this way is placed, following it to be located at the same distance from the edges of the box and did not sink deep into the resin. Before the pump, the plate is slightly heated. In addition, it is very important that the air does not hit the plate and it would prevent the entire plane. For this, the plate is applied to the resin with one edge and gradually lowered it into the resin to the entire plane (Fig. 39). Then the resin with the plate is allowed to cool down and the drawing is translated on the pumping plate. This operation begins that the location of the axial lines on the plate is noted on the resin, then a small piece of winds or gauze, moistened with water and squeezed, take a little white gouache or watercolor and are covered with a thin layer plate.

It is not recommended to apply a thick layer of paint, as it leads to the lag of the pattern together with the layer of paint and varnish during the expense.As soon as the gouache is dry, the axial lines are again restored on the plate with a pencil on the preserved marks at the edges of the resin (Fig. 40). Then they take a drawing or tracing with it, where axial lines are also carried out, combine them with axial lines on the plate and fasten the pattern to the plastic plate or wax (or buttons in the resin, if the edges of the resin are low), pre-laying the copy paper.

You can translate the pattern either a rigid pencil or a pointed end of a wooden stick. To check, do not remove the entire picture from the plate, but only lift one edge. The translated drawing is fixed. To secure the drawing is covered with a thick layer of varnish just once with a cotton swab. Another way of translation of the drawing is a cartoon that is performed by a candlentine (see Fig. 25). The candating is carried out by a continuous series of shocks forming a dashed line on the metal. The canafarnic in this case is kept on a ring finger at some distance from the plane of the metal (2-3 mm) above the drawing line, and the finger slides in the drawing. Thus, the canafaric touches the metal only after hitting the hammer and returns again to its original position. Finger in this case is a shock absorber for Chekane. Blows should not be too strong, so that the trace remains in the form of a small point and the metal did not break through through (Fig. 41). Small details of the drawing canopy is denser, large details-rare dotted line.

For the cartfiary, the drawing is superimposed on the plate either in the direct image or in the inverted. After the carternation in the literal image, there may be two options: the first thing is the stroke of the drawing by a consumable, followed by lowering the background with globoys; The second is bypassing the passage, you can immediately after the carternation with soft bulkheads close to the canfark omit background. The second option accelerates work, as immediately begins immediate work on the relief. When cannonia from an inverted drawing (the drawing in this case is usually removed on the tracing), the work begins immediately by the relief. In this case, the ability to minimize not only the drawing of the drawing, but also do not make unnecessary pumping plates. In the case when the pattern is translated through copy paper, you always need to circle its consumable.

During the passage and in general, during the chasing, the box with a plate should be positioned so that the drawing line is directed to the working, as in this direction it is always easier to minor, especially beginner. Under the box it is necessary to put a pillow with sand, rubber or any other sound-resumatory lining. The stakes of the checks are placed ahead on the left side, and the chased hammer is right. All the checks at the rate must be the working part up or, as they say open. The place must be chosen in such a way that the light falls on the right side for those who work with a hammer right hand, and on the left side, who works with his left hand. Checkan is taken in such a way that it relies on three fingers: index, medium and unnamed and pressed with a thumb. Based on the ring finger, they apply a series of shocks on a check and an in-depth trail is formed on the specified pattern. The position of the check in relation to the plane of the metal should be as shown in Fig. 42. The arrow shows the direction of movement of the Chekana. So it should be when working as a consumerial and an incomplete check during the expense and distribution of relief. Initially, you need to conduct training exercises for beginners better than the consumable according to the specified figure. Thus, the technique of smooth movement of the Chekane is produced and at the same time corresponding to the rhythm of the hammer blows.

Pattern spending.For this operation there are checks, called bypass or consumables. Purpose of consumption - fixing the drawing on the metal for further work, as the drawing translated through the copy paper cannot be saved while lowering the background and inquiring.

The drawing consumption may be not only an operation that fixes the pattern, but also independent, final. If you can make a solid monotonous line for fixing the pattern, then with the final version you need to carefully follow each movement of the line, for each stroke, for each part of the picture: somewhere to strengthen the line and give accent, and somewhere to reduce not gradually disappearing drawing line. Due to various transitions of the line, an expressive picture of the contour pattern is created.

For the stroke of the drawing, two respective consumables are taken - straight and semicircular (with a large or smaller radius of combat), depending on work. You can make a flow or direct consumator, or semicircular-all depends on the character of the pattern. In the case when a direct consumator passes along the line curve, it must be tilted even more in the opposite direction from the check of the Chekane. In this case, the working part of the consuming (battle) concerns the plane of the metal only a small part of its surface and the chasane is easier to operate on turns. The trace from the consumor should be dense and smooth. For minor jewelry works, sharp and small consumables are used, giving clear, thin touches for large chasing, on the contrary, stupid, wide consumables or common calcined (see Fig. 3). After the passage, the drawing becomes clearly visible with the facial, and from the back side.

The illustration of the bilateral work of the consumability can be the brass dish of the XVIII century. (Fig. 43). On the edge of this dish, there is a lace consumption and a punching padding of three circles on the front side, and along the edge of the concave part there is a rolling side of the product, which looks like a convex line over the background.

The subsequent operation after the passage is lowering the background. It is done around the drawing with more or less flat checks (bulk), which are displayed. To do this, the master keeps the check somewhat obliteled towards the pattern and, while maintaining the wall formed by the consumable of the picture, aligns (melting) the opposite side facing the background. The inclined check is kept because it is so easier to direct the losselot for the spending, and the lowering of the background occurs only in the line of consumption with a gradual transition to the rest of the background. A part of the background that does not apply to the lossel, is leveled later by wooden shells on a metal plate after removing from the resin. As a result, the relief begins to stand out strongly over the background. By lowering the background, the chasoker achieves partial relief detection. In some cases, lowering the background and its further texture processing is the final operation.

Such techniques were very often used in the past. When it is necessary to strengthen the relief, it is necessary to remove the plate from the resin and zooming it. For annealing, the plate is heated to dark red cation. In the process of heating, the metal is ignited and the viscosity and plasticity again acquires. At the same time, the resin from the reverse side burns out and the remaining earth is easily removed by the crest, bleaching and washing in water.

You need to bleach in a 10-15% solution of sulfuric acid, if it is copper, brass or silver; In hydrochloric acid - if it is iron alloys. To do this, carefully gradually omit the record into the beat, avoiding splashing. After bleaching, it is necessary to rinse the product well in warm water, dried in wood sawdust or weak heated. If the chasonka was produced on aluminum, flack it, like other metals, it is impossible. The process of recrystallization of aluminum begins long before the start of red cagine. At the same time, the temperature ranges of red cation and aluminum melting are very close. In other words, if the aluminum heat the hot, he can start melting and work will die. Therefore, before annealing, preheated the plate, the addition of the resin on aluminum is washed off by kerosene (abundant moistened kerosene rubbing polluted places until all resin is dissolved). Then the plate sounds dry with dry rag.

For annealing on a clean aluminum plate, pre-watched the line of line in two directions (cell) and heat it to the blackening of soap. After annealing aluminum, the plate was washed in a heated solution of two-dimensional soda or caustic soda.

Removing plate with resin.If the plate bounced off the resin during the chasing, then the air layer was formed under it, therefore it is enough to be spinning around the plate a resin, hide it and remove it. If the plate is firmly sits on the resin, it also needs to be released from the resin along the edges (slices of the resin around the plate), then, capturing the ticks over the edge and at the same time heated with a plate with a gas burner or a soldering lamp, raise it. With sufficient warm-up, the plate will easily come down from the resin.

Thus, the initial stages of the work are considered, i.e., the pumping plates, the translation of the pattern, the canafaria, lowering the background, removal from the resin plate, annealing and whitening.

Plicing relief.Lowering the background after the spending is to some extent the beginning of the population. The relief of the chasing with a complex pattern (up to 5 mm height) can be fully on the resin. The chasing with a high relief is better to make a combined way, i.e., to produce the relief and on the resin and without resin. After lowering the background on the resin, it is necessary to remove the chasing from the resin, to join it, whiten, rinse and dry. The total relief is made gradually on the pillow with sand, alternating the relief, with landing neighboring backgrounds in his place on the stove. Work is carried out on both sides alternately.

If there is a chasing on aluminum, copper, brass, it is better to do with wooden checks, and at the gland - mostly steel. Special attention should be paid at the same time on the graduality of the pumping over the entire surface of the chasing, to avoid large drops, repeated metal shifts in a small area, as this can lead to the destruction of the metal.

When the relief of the relief is, it is necessary to put a vertically to the plane of the chasing, but obliquely (as if the versiper) is one way, then to another. On the front side, on the contrary, as it were for compression. The impact direction is carried out in the direction of relief along the background plane. In fig. 44 shows a diagram of the direction of blows when the relief is made and landing the background of any section on the metal. As can be seen in the diagram, work is carried out on both sides with soft rounded checks, which allows you to make a deep paint without the destruction of the metal.

When the relief is painted on copper, brass, iron, etc., the intermediate annealing is not excluded to give the desired viscosity of the metal. Aluminum withstands very large inquiries without intermediate annealing, but if stiffness, elasticity and disappropriateness are detected when the relief is made, then the chasing is needed.

They are trained in the checks only with the soft working part, especially in the initial stage, then gradually go to tighter checks in the final stage of the relief. The final definition of the relief when it is possible to obtain without resin, it is impossible and this is done at the next stage. To do this, it is necessary to join the record again, whiten, rinse and dry. Then pour the resin relief from the front side.

To put a hot stirrer in advance preheated in the box a resin on the relief and slightly below it to warm it up. If the resin take a cold stirrer, the resin sticks to the stirrer and prevents it from working.The resin will fill all the irregularities of the relief. Before putting a chasing with a resin into a box, it is allowed to cool down a little, the accumulation of the resin has not slipped from the plate. By this time, the resin in the box should be ready for shock. The plate with the relief, flooded with a resin, is laid in the box with a common technique, i.e., first immerse the same side and gradually, the air squeezes, lower the entire plate in the resin. The scamped chasing must be cooled and only then continue to make the relief, i.e., the paint of those details that could not "raise" on the pillow with sand.

Cooling again podmolny chasing is better to produce naturally - in air. Therefore, this operation is always done by the end of work.

Sometimes to accelerate the cooling, the box is put with a puffy plate under the tap with water, but it is undesirable, since the rapidly chilled resin is worse than the plate. Sometimes it is advantageous to produce flick on warm resin, if you need to raise a very significant relief. When the relief is traversed, only the part of the relief is lowered on the resin, which is applied to Chekane. When the relief of the relief in the sand, rubber or other materials, not only the area of \u200b\u200brelief is descended, on which they hit, but also the neighboring. Therefore, strictly limited form of relief is made on the resin.

For the population of relief uses common checks of the corresponding sizes (less than the detail of the relief). Gradually, starting with low plans, lowered by metal smooth movements. Checkan moves always in the direction of development of the picture. With a high relief, the entire drawing is first digging low, and if the plate still holds, the process is repeated, arguing the relief to the intended height.

It should be noted that the more accurately the relief is made, the fresh, softer, it will look like a chasing, the less work from the front side. Therefore, it is very important before proceeding to the chasing of any work that has a relief, it is necessary to pre-cut it into plasticine, which will correctly establish its main relationships in the relief plans and determine their heights. Under the impression, the master judges the correctness of the inquiring. To remove the inscription, you need to take a wooden (better piece of carpentry shield or a metal plate 4-5 mm thick) plate, put plasticine on it, slightly moisten the chasing, put a shield on it with plasticine and hammer blows to repel the outtreet. If the relief on the board corresponds to the planned, you need to finish the stage of the population and prepare for the next operation. This is especially important when performing multifigure compositions and portrait chasing. In general, every work requires a special approach.

As depreciation materials, there are still felt, rubber, wooden boards, churbans, etc. In the past, leaders were used in the past.

Relief chasing from the front side.To do this, the chasing need to be removed again from the resin, i.e. it is necessary to make a resin around the plate, slightly pushing it and heated, remove it. Then the plate is ignited to dark red cagine, they are painted on a steel brush the burnt ground, whiten, washed and dried. Box with a resin and all the fragments of the resin put under the electric heater. The chasing is straightened on a cast-iron, steel or other plate, poured on the reverse side of the resin, slightly cool and twist for the final reader from the front side.

The third pump is produced in the same way as the second one, with the only difference that the resin is now poured from the back side and is laid in a box with the front side. If in the process of the ethmold on the front surface of the relief hit the resin, then it was washed with kerosene and wipe dry. After that, sulfur bleach, powdered pimples or emery powder carefully wipe the relief to the purity of the metal, then a clean cloth wipe the surface of the chasing and finally wipe dry.

Final readingthe relief lies in the detailed elaboration of all forms, identifying their characteristic features, applying various textures (if necessary), creating a general one-piece impression of the whole relief (Fig. 45).

The texture of chased surfaces plays a big role in the final finish: the combination of smooth, forged and matte (rough) elements of the relief. Significantly enriches the application of various patterns of increments that give individual areas of relief striped, lattice, yemchauty or cellular texture. For this, special textured checks are applied, just a consuming or round crimp, etc. The masters of the past centuries very skillfully used textured checks (Fig. 46). However, at the end of the XIX century. It has reached extreme virtuosity, not always justified. In silver, began to transmit the texture of fur, fabric, wood, etc. (Fig. 47). Such samples can be seen in the exposition of the state weapon chamber of the Moscow Kremlin.

If during the inquallation is mainly used (with different curvature of the working part) of the checked, then with the final system, all types of checks are used, including textured. At the end of work, when you need to emphasize any part, apply several strokes, clarify the contour of the relief, consumables can be applied again. Much attention is paid to the decoration of the background. It is done by something smooth forged, then matte or patterns with the use of various punches or stuffing with a candidate or a poker.

Chacking on bulk forms.It is performed about the same as on the plane. However, here there are features on which it is necessary to stop. For conical and cylindrical volumetric forms, the corresponding scanning of the drawing is prepared. The collapse of the volumetric forms is poured in advance preheated resin. If the form does not have the bottom, then it is put on paper on paper, peeled with raw sand and only then poured a resin through the top hole. Preparation of the surface for the translation of the drawing is the same as on the plane. With shaped, spherical or individual, it is broken into areas for which fragments of the picture are prepared, and they are transferred to the workpiece. After the design of the pattern to the volume of a soft pencil, amendments are made, the missing patterns of the pattern, then the entire picture together with the amendments is fixed with varnish and the consumable will be burned. It is generally better to translate the drawing to the volume, as it is easier to make amendments. A simple or well-thought-out drawing can be drawn directly on the bulk form, pre-covering it with white gouache.

After stroking the pattern, the resin is flipped from the volume. For this, the volumetric form put a wide hole on two rods above the box, it is evenly warmed by a soldering lamp or a gas burner, starting from the bottom. If it is impossible to put the form, it is suspended on a tripod of steel wire over the translation of the pattern through the copy paper, the metal is covered with a thin layer of white guasha, and when the metal is allowed to be clean - without coatings. Then, the scan of the pattern is applied to the bulk form and is glued with it with soap, plasticine, wax, rubber glue or calf. However, the candating on the volume is rarely applied. In cases where the form of the volume of the ball and heated before the output of the whole resin. For complete cleaning from the resin of the inner cavity of the volume form, it must be burned, evenly warm up to dark red cation. After annealing, bleach, rinse and dry. If the form has one narrow neck, it is necessary to warm up carefully, mostly warm in the area of \u200b\u200bthe neck. If this is neglected and warm throughout the volume, then this can lead to bloating or rupture of the form.

The next operation is depictingrelief.

In cases where in bulk form it is impossible to put a beken and swollen a hammer, the relief is detected using hooks or ratchets (see Fig. 37, a, b).Works with hooks behave as follows: The volumetric item is laid on the workbench, on the bag with sand. Then, putting the combat end of the hook in the cavity of the form to the area of \u200b\u200bthe relief, to be flipped, hit the hammer on the hook bar and thus lift one or another picture of the pattern. Repeating the operation repeatedly and every time moving the hook battle in the inner surface of the bulk form, gradually knock out the entire relief to the desired height. Hooks can be single and double-sided. It is better to have a bilateral skyrin, since he has two different working parts. The way of a cripplet with a hook on a sand pillow is not very convenient, since both hands are engaged in a hook and hammer, and the bulk form remains uncontrollable.

Work ratchet is carried out otherwise. It is clamped by an inoperative end in vice, and the vessel is kept in hand. Then the working end of the ratchet inside the form approximately on the plot, the relief of which wants to lift (squirrel) and the rapid strikes on the rusting rod ride the check location. This can be determined by small tuberculos arising from each impact on the surface of the subject. Tapping on the rod, move the shape to the right place and strong blows begin to make a relief, constantly directing the item in the right direction. In fig. 37, butthe arrow shows the direction of strike on the rod. Place on the ratchet rod, which should be shocking, can be defined only during operation.

The greatest return is achieved when hitting some defined place on a ratchet bar. Therefore, before starting to work, you need to determine this place, putting the palm of one hand to battle, and the other to strike the rod in different places. Feeling the strongest push, you need to notice the place of this impact and only then move to the product. Just like the ratchet, you can work and hooks, if one end of the hook to push into vice. For this, the hook must have sufficient length. During the population, the background part of the bulk form is also slightly pulled out and rises along with the relief. To land the background to the place, the conical and cylindrical forms are worn according to a cylindrical or conical mandrel (slightly smaller diameter) and wooden shells aspi the background in place, and where the metal does not succumb to the wooden check, heat the metallic checks. If the form is spherical, the background is cozed on a spherical mandrel. In the case when the mandrel is not included in the hole, the background hesitated on the resin, which is replenished again, and at the same time they specify the injection relief. To complete the relief, the relief often requires a repeated squeezing and annealing of the form. With a volumetric chaconstick, the most difficult thing is to get the relief, and the rest of the chasing is carried out in the same way as on the plane, with the only difference that the form for this is installed in a special bowler, which, in turn, is placed on the ring-shaped stand, stitched from the drive belt.

In fig. 48 shows a bowler, which is given from sheet steel or aluminum in the form of a semit and then poured with a chased resin. On such a bowler, until the resin is completely frozen, prepare a place for the product being processed. For this, a hot and still viscous resin is covered with a wet rag or paper, and on top of the above-cooled volumetric item (filled with resin) and slightly pressing it into the resin. Wet rag or paper does not give the subject to stick, and the resin is formed, the corresponding configuration of the processed item is formed. In such a nest, the subject is well held in the process of chasing, it is easily rotated, removed and not dirty about the resin. To fix the print, you need to quickly cool the resin in the bowler, for which the bowler together with the form is put under a stream of cold water.

In the event that the relief is low and the bulk form can be deployed, it is advisable to shift it on the plane (on the scan), and then bend to the form of the item and mounted, i.e., to solder or in the lock, and on the place of the seam to produce a connecting chasing.

Creating a sketch drawing

1. You look for the topic that you wanted to transfer to your metal to create your own artwork.

2. Singing your developing under the chasing, shorter stylization (simplifying the drawing under the chasing), with time when you wake up, with metal, you will look for your style.

3. Created on paper your work, which should look like a single rosary line (without strokes) so that you can be conveniently transferred to the metal through copy paper.

4.Metal you wipe the solvent, "degrease", then paint, white gouache, water-level paint (not butter paint), let me dry.

5.Well translate your drawing through the copier on the metal, covered with white paint, the drawing you transferred.

6.The it is clear that your drawing is clear that your drawing is visible, a thin layer (you need a lacquer that quickly dries up so that you do not wait for the next day when it dries). Your drawing is fixed, so that you do not wash your hands, because your hands wakes up on the metal when you keep the "Consumnik" chased and wake up your work, and wake your drawing. There is still a way - they all also transferred their drawing on the metal, and then circle the "sharp confedrik" squeezing out the contours of the drawing so that the grooves (dashes) remain. And you can then minimize, not afraid when you erase the drawing with your hand when working, you will remain on the metal groove drawing. I did this job. But if you make a big and difficult work, better first option.

Metal chasing and preparation of material and tools.

In order to start engaging in the metal chasing, you need to make tools, from durable material from "doped" steel. Do not scare this word "doped", if you have a metal rod, you can check it with a sharp metal object if the dent is weak metal is good. To do this, you need a metal rod from steel, different diameters, I used the reinforcement in those times very durable material, from the car valve of various cars and freight cars, you can find through your loved ones and acquaintances. Change length is about 12 to 15 cm, and the diameter is preferably different. It is better to do them with your own hands, so more you will learn about their manufacture.

When you make tools need to be released and you can order a soldering lamp when they are crawling under the desired shape, it is released from the beginning of them. Heat the tip to the scarlet red color cool and processed - they are cutting off, the metal is well processing. When you finish handle the metal and make the tool, then you need to harden. To do this, heat the solder lamp to the end to the bright red color, and omit into the engine oil in working out.

The main first checkman is a consumility, it looks like a screwdriver, only the edges of many rounded, in order to when you beat a hammer on Chekan, he slid gently with you gently and went ahead left even deepening. To this you need to adapt a little. Train yourself, take a piece of metal plate, I used to use an allyumine plate, it was cheap, the thickness is about 3, 4, 5, mm. A thin metal can be squeezed without a hammer and checked, by squeezing with hands with self-made tools, but this topic is separate.

This checkman, you will circle the contour of your drawing, leaving a uniform deepening. Put the consumers on the drawing line and begin to knock the hammer on the check, your brain begins to understand how to knock on the check and what power to use to strike, so as not to break the metal and the recess should be equally even, try to do without jar. The contour is better to knock on a solid wooden surface, on a flat smooth board, put on the board, you can grab nails of the edge of the metal plate to the tree so that you can comfortably pass the contours of the pattern and the metal plate is not shot down. When you cost the whole drawing "consumable", then you need to turn off the plate from the board. On the board there was a drawing, a board can be repeatedly touched by a plane, and then the next workpiece to do on it. Your metal has become elastic, and he was led to different directions. To do this, make a fir, warming your metal plate, gradually by a soldering lamp to red, all the plate, see do not stagger, how the Reds appeared, go to another area, and gradually all the plate are burning so that your metal give leave, it becomes soft and flexible and pliable.

Then you can handle your work to remove the Gar and Black, which appeared when you burned the metal.

You can not do this if you are a beginner, the main point is to understand the entire work process. I wipe the metal with a solvent dark, but I blame and without whitening. Well, according to the rules and better option, you must do like this. It is treated with a special solution, it is made of 5 - 10% aqueous solution of sulfuric acid. Be careful with sulfuric acid, it is very dangerous and harmful. The main thing you must pour sulfuric acid into the waterIf you wake up the opposite, your solution will boil, and sulfuric acid wakes spray, and can damage and harm you. You need to pour a thin jet and continuous stirring with a glass wand. The bath case makes red copper or lead, and preferably in the iron casing. You need to use in gloves and apron of special manufacture. Stop or remove your work, use Iron Tongs. When you were removed from the solution, be sure to rinse, in running water and dried. Work becomes clean and bright and wake you see all your work all the lines, not tightening vision. After drying, go to another procedure.

Attach to a flat wooden board treated with a planer so that the surface is smooth and smooth without any holes and roughness, a specially cut board under your job a little more so that you can attach it to nails, put your work from the metal from the front side where you passed consumers. Bechean, Chekhan lobcot and start knocking, on the check by the hammer at the edges of your contour the pattern omit down the metal, metal around your drawing, where you passed consumers, it all depends on your drawing and its complexity. Checkan lyszotnik There should be a different size small large. To make you comfortable to be held in all places where you need to lower the metal. You must develop intuition, where you need to lower the metal, and other places leave, in short, ascending the volume, the lower metal is lowered, the top remains.

After you have passed the chasen bulkman Your places where the metal must be lowered down. Go to the next procedure. Remove the metal with a wooden board. We look at the metal if it was strongly stretched and led, revolt its work back from the metal. Metal has become soft and malleable.

You must have a rubber plate, the size of your ability to work at it to accommodate it on which you will knock out the volume from the reverse side of your work. To do this, you need to find a rubber plate or elastic felt, I use the rubber plate on the desktop, a piece of conveyor belt for supplying coal, the thickness is normal and not much elastic. But you can use any rubber plate, I wrote for an example where I found.

For this you need a check, Possinn. The end is similar to the hemisphere. Checkan possinn.we need a different size if you need to beat a large volume, then you can use wooden checks that you can make a tree yourself. Bruks of different volumes, ends should be rounded, like a pillow and can easily knock out a large volume. You have a lot of volume, and beautiful. Large volumes with small details, it is better to do on a specially prepared resin. Make a box .... The continuation should be followed, I will complement ....

Watch video Training: How to make a metal chasing?

How to prepare for chasing Metal to make a tiger sketch lesson number 1

How to make a chasunk on the metal and how to use checkmark lesson number 2

Metal Chacking Training Lesson # 3. We continue the training We are the entire drawing by the Cecken consumator, it draws contour lines. The consumility is similar to a screwdriver, but the edges of the semicircular and from polished that it is easy when the hammer has slipped across the surface
Metal.

Checking on metal Training Lesson # 4. We continue to make the chasing of the growing tiger. We passed all the contours of the consumable and now along the contour we start working with a cuckoo.

How to make an aluminum metal chasing and all non-ferrous metals lesson # 5, and what is the best way for beginners with the lowest time? We continue the fifth lesson, what extra materials are needed for your chasing?