Fastening the rafters of a pitched roof: a thorough analysis of the units used. How the rafter system of a shed roof is arranged and the correct fastening of rafters Shed roof structures rafter systems

The alluring simplicity of a single slope roof inspires thoughts of the opportunity to prove themselves in the field of a successful builder. The construction of an unpretentious structure consists in the banal laying of rafter legs on the supporting walls. No complicated knots, tricky and numerous joints. However, even in the simplest carpentry business, there are tricks that require thorough study. The future performer needs to know firmly how the shed roofs are fastened in order to exclude deformation and damage to the elements of the frame system.

Traditional "wooden" troubles

The scheme of the rafter frame of a pitched roof is simple to the limit. It is a row of parallel-laid planks or beams resting on the edges on two walls of different heights. To install and fasten the rafter legs to the building structure, a transitional element made of wood is used.

Depending on the type of the equipped box and the material of the walls, the function of the transition element is performed by:

Mauerlat. In a pitched roof scheme, these are two separately laid wooden beams, completing concrete or brick walls.
Upper piping of the frame structure. A belt of double stitched planks or beams installed on top of the frame racks.
The upper crown of the foot, folded from a bar or log.

The rafter legs and the elements in contact with them are made of wood, which has the property of changing its own dimensions following fluctuations in the humidity background and temperature drops. In spring and autumn, especially during the rainy period, the length of the rafter legs will be slightly longer than in dry summers and frosty winters.

Imagine what would happen if the rafter rigidly fixed at the top and bottom increases in size. There will be gaps in the waterproofing, the fasteners will loosen, the slate sheets will move, the metal tile will move. In addition, the deflection and swelling of the roof frame will certainly affect its wear resistance.

However, changes in the linear dimensions of the rafters are not at all the main hitch of wooden rafter systems. An unpleasant surprise, if not taken into account, will be the draft of the newly built box.

It manifests itself most vividly near wooden walls, but structures made of concrete and brick are also very characteristic. Recall that pitched roofs rest on walls of different heights. Without calculations, you can understand that they will sag by different amounts. Those. there is a threat that, due to the difference in the subsidence of the walls, the new roof will not just change the slope angle. There will be a possibility of a violation of the nodes with extremely negative destructive consequences.

Despite the simplicity of pitched roofs and the direction of laying the rafters close to the horizontal, the listed risks should not be forgotten. The nodes used in fastening the rafter legs of a pitched roof must take into account the "whims" of the wood.

The work of the developer of his own project of a shed roof is to find the right solution to three important tasks, according to which:

It must be possible to move the wooden parts relative to each other.
All probable causes of poor connections should be ruled out.
It is necessary to provide the rafters with the opportunity to adapt to the consequences of wall subsidence so that they can take a stable position.

The rafter legs of single-pitched roofs erected above walls of equal height are classified as layered. The hanging type is used if the box being equipped has walls of equal height and the ramp is formed by rafter triangles.

With the fastening of triangles, everything is clear: with the horizontal side they are installed on a strapping or Mauerlat, have a maximum docking area with supporting elements, and are fixed in the usual way.

With layered rafter legs, everything is much more complicated. They are installed at an angle to the supporting elements. Without processing and preparation for installation, the rafters have only two unreliable points of contact with the strapping or Mauerlat.

No matter how powerful the fastener is, two points are not enough for a solid fit of the part. Even with a slight impact, such a slope will simply slide down along with a solid crate and a multi-layer roofing cake. However, there are methods invented by ancient builders to avoid such troubles.

In order to prevent unwanted movements, the contact area of the rafters and the supporting element is increased; for this, the following is performed:

Selection of cuttings. These are cuts in the shape of a triangle or a triangle with a tooth. Saw them exclusively on the rafters, so as not to weaken the bearing Mauerlat.
Washed down the upper or lower edge of the rafter leg, thereby creating a support platform that increases stability. It is performed strictly vertically or horizontally.

Depending on the type and place of sawing or trimming, cuts and saws can limit or not restrict the movement of a wooden part. The restrictions are considered relative, because there are no absolutely rigid fastenings in the construction of pitched roofs. Experts classify the knots used according to the degrees of freedom: from one to four.

In the construction of roofs with one slope, most often appear:

One-degree-of-freedom attachments are virtually fixed joints that allow the rafter to pivot slightly around the attachment point.
Attachment nodes with two degrees of freedom - connections that provide the ability to rotate around the fastener and slight horizontal displacement.
Three DOFs are connections that allow horizontal and vertical rotation and displacement.

The presence of degrees of freedom does not at all mean that the rafter can freely rotate and move in the area of the node. They are fastened quite rigidly, because they have to hold the crate, corrugated board or other type of covering, snow cover.

The connection will show its own capabilities only if the load is exceeded. Then the rafter legs will just move and take a new position, and the system will remain intact.

Any scheme of a shed roof visually depicts the presence of at least two connecting nodes. Let's divide them conditionally into upper and lower ones. In the construction of truss roofs, the rule applies: if one of the nodes is fixed rigidly, then the second should have more opportunities for movement.

Projecting and simplifying the technological principle, we can say: if the fastenings in the upper nodes of a pitched roof are made rigidly, then the lower connections should be more free in order to ensure the possibility of displacement when pressure is exceeded. And vice versa: if the lower mount is practically motionless, then at the top of the rafter you need to provide some kind of reserve for movement and rotation.

Details about the nodes of the pitched roof

After getting acquainted with the theoretical side of the question of fastening the rafters of a pitched roof, you can proceed to practical research of the demanded nodal schemes. Note that most projects of systems with a single slope are designed for the installation of rafters that form overhangs due to their own length. However, when overlapping large spans, it happens that there is not enough standard lumber dimensions. In these cases, filly are sewn to the rafters, creating an overhang. They are installed on the side of the installed leg and do not affect the principle of forming a knot at all.

The second reason for using fillies in the formation of overhangs is too weighty rafters, which are very difficult to lift and install. The third prerequisite lies in the peculiarities of the nodal bindings: if the lower heel is installed on a slider with a cut-off edge.

No. 1: Support at the top and hinge-movable bottom

A scheme with a rigidly fixed top and a relatively movable bottom is used in the construction of roofs over extensions, in the construction of objects with a steep roof and a significant difference between the height of the supporting walls.

Simply put, where the upper edge of the rafter rests against a wooden beam, the purlin or wall of the main building is not left with space for movement. The lower knot in such situations is calculated on a slider, which allows it to move slightly.

Algorithm for the classic version with the top resting on the girder:

We install the purlin frame supports. On the strapping of the frame building from opposite sides, we install supports sewn from three pieces of board 25 × 100. The middle segment should be 75mm shorter than the outer ones in order to form a kind of notch.
We build a purlin frame. We put a board 25 × 150 of the required length into the recess.
We apply a 25 × 100 board of arbitrary length to the end of the future roof, but more than the diagonal drawn from the top of the running frame to the strapping, by about 30 cm. Mark the vertical line of the upper cut, outlining the adjacent edge of the run. We mark the line of the bottom cut and the vertical for trimming the edge of the rafter.
We cut out the rafter according to the marks, try it on in fact, correct the cuts if necessary.
According to the made template, we cut out and mount the rafter legs.

We select the type of fastener based on the expected load. It is more convenient to fix the top with corners, the bottom - with corners, twisting no more than three self-tapping screws in them, or sliding supports. If necessary, the lower knot can be stabilized - sew a support block to the rafter leg from below.

The junction with the purlin can be designed a little differently: the rafters are laid on the beam using a cut. Here the groove is selected strictly according to the size of the material. But if it is necessary to increase the degree of freedom, the horizontal wall of the cut is beveled at an insignificant angle, and the lower unit is equipped with a sewing bar.

No. 2: Top and bottom hinge-fixed

The scheme is applicable when arranging boxes, the walls of which have already undergone intensive shrinkage. Suitable for detached objects. The upper knot is made in the form of a triangular cut, the lower one is in the form of a gash with a tooth resting on the Mauerlat.

The construction process of a shed rafter system:

We install the blank board with an edge on the Mauerlat beams anywhere on the roof.
Lay a well-cut piece of board flat on the lower Mauerlat. We put it so that the extreme edge coincides with the inner edge of the Mauerlat. Having outlined the trim, we get the outline of the lower attachment point.
We transfer the cut to the area of the upper cut and outline it, because the lower heel of the rafter will decrease by this amount.
A workpiece with knots drawn and then sawn out will serve as a template. Using it, we make the number of legs specified by the project.
We install the rafters. We fix it at the bottom with staples or pins, at the top with corners.

If it is necessary to increase the degree of freedom, by analogy with the previous method, the vertical edge of the upper cut will need to be slightly beveled. The angle of the cut will then turn out to be not 90º, but 95 - 97º. Experienced carpenters make simple cuts directly on site, turning the workpiece upside down. Beginner performers should not be imitated in the early stages.

The rafter pattern is used in roof construction only when there is no doubt about the geometric characteristics of the box. In the opposite situations, the rafters are tried on and made piece by piece. First, the extreme elements of the system are installed, then ordinary legs along the lace stretched between them.

One of the variations on the theme of two hinge-fixed nodes involves the device of a vertical gash at the top and notches with a tooth at the bottom. Work on their arrangement is carried out as follows:

We install the blank board on the Mauerlat so that its lower corner is directly above the outer edge of the timber.
At the top, using a piece of board, mark the vertical line of the cut (x) and measure its length.
We transfer the length of the upper cut to the area of the lower node. We set aside the length of the cut (x) upward vertically from the inner upper edge of the Mauerlat.
Draw a horizontal line from the resulting point. The result is a notch with a tooth.
We cut out the nodes along the marks, set them in place, fasten them with corners, duplicate the lower nodes with brackets.

As the dimension (x) increases, the slope of the roof will increase, while decreasing it will decrease.

No. 3: Free top and hinged-fixed bottom

The ideal scheme for the construction of a pitched roof with rafters, the edges of which protrude beyond the walls. After some adjustment, it can be used in the arrangement of outbuildings.

We install the workpiece with an edge on the upper and lower Mauerlat beams with the removal of the edges outside the walls. Here you need an assistant to hold the board over the canopy.
We apply a template - a cut-off piece of board sequentially to the lower and upper Mauerlat so that the outer edge of the template coincides with the outer edge of the beams. We mark the lines of the upcoming cuts.
We choose the cuts according to the outlined lines. Slightly beveled the vertical wall of the upper cut.
We install the rafter, fix it at the top with nails or corners, at the bottom with staples.
We make and install the rest of the rafters in the same way.

It is clear that mobility with its antagonist is a relative concept. However, you cannot treat them with coolness. It is required to take into account the degree of freedom of the node both during the design period and when choosing fasteners. Lack of mobility of the structure will lead to deformation, excess will contribute to instability.

No. 4: Mobility of both attachment points

A scheme with two movable nodes can be used if both fasteners have no more than two degrees of freedom. Those. horizontal mixing excludes top and bottom limiters.

Consider an example in which the rafters of an extension are laid at the top into niches cut into the wall. This means that horizontal displacement is excluded, rotation and some movement along the vertical are possible. The bottom is planted with cuttings, but in the horizontal direction it is limited by metal corners.

Actions of the builder of the "shed" step by step:

Preparing the object for work. We put a Mauerlat made of 100 × 150 timber on the brick wall of the extension. We put it on the wide side closer to the inner edge of the wall. We fasten with anchors every 80cm. In the main wall of the building at the design height, we cut grooves for the upper heels of the rafters. The depth of the cuttings is 12cm, the step between them is 70cm. If you don't want to mess around with gouging, you can use metal brackets screwed to the wall.
We make a rafter leg template. We set the blank board with the upper edge in the groove, with the lower edge on the Mauerlat. Departing from the bottom corners of the workpiece 10 cm in the horizontal direction, draw two triangular cuts.
According to the indications of the template, we make rafters. We install them, fix the position with metal corners.

The device method is valid for overlapping spans up to 4.5 m. If you need to block a larger span, the rafters will need a support group as part of the struts.

No. 5: Rigid attachment to the inclined harness

The method is used in frame construction, because it is possible to lay the support element at an angle only on racks cut at an angle. Either the racks of the frame itself, or a cantilever-running structure installed on the box, are sawn obliquely. In principle, the latter option is quite suitable for the construction of a pitched roof on concrete and brick walls.

Stages of the device of a shed roof along an inclined strapping:

Putting together the structure that creates the slope of the roof. On the gable side of the frame building, we mount short racks with the upper edge cut at an angle.
On the inclined top of the racks, we lay the board in one row for small outbuildings, in two for more serious houses.
We equip the end sides of the roof with frames in the shape of a right-angled triangle, the hypotenuse of which should repeat the slope line.
We apply the rafter to the end of the roof to mark the line of the lower cut.
We make the required number of rafter legs according to the template. We install them on the harness, fix the position of the elements with metal corners.

Without a shadow of a doubt, we will classify the latter method as the simplest category. Of all the methods of attaching the rafters to the harness and beams of the shed roof Mauerlat, this one is most conducive to attempts at independent implementation.

Final fastening work

After installing the entire row of rafter legs, we check the design position of the elements, the distance between them. We apply an arbitrary board flat to the frame of the slope, identify flaws and correct flaws. Then we fasten the rafters with staples or bundles to the walls through one in regions with medium and low wind activity. We fix each leg in areas of high wind load.

Fillets, if planned for installation, are made of material half the size of the rafter legs. Sew them on the side to the rafter. The length of the sewn-on section is on average 60-80cm.

Video for a visual study of the process

The presented methods and schemes for fastening the rafters of a pitched roof have been tested by practice. They are used most often in their "pure form". However, some adjustments according to specific specifications are not excluded.

The guarantee of the durability of a residential-type house or any other purpose will be a safe and durable roof. The quality of installation is based on the correct selection of materials, fasteners and the technology of joining structural units.

Whatever the roof, it presupposes the presence of several basic elements, among them the rafter frame, the sheathing and the roofing package can be distinguished. As for the rafter system, it is the main supporting element of the roof, which is also sometimes called the skeleton. The lathing is the ribs on which the covering material is installed. The varieties of rafter systems can be reduced to two main classes, among them hanging rafters and those called layered.

Hanging rafters

If you need to fasten the rafters to the Mauerlat, then it is important to know that the first of them can be hanging. They are formed by a triangular rigid connection of the structure, which looks like trusses. They include timber and rafter boards. In this case, the puffs are removed to the Mauerlat. The latter is a thick support bar that is securely attached to the top of the wall. Its task is to create the basis for the profile frame.

Rafters

If it is necessary to fasten the rafters to the Mauerlat, then you need to remember that the first of them can be layered. In this case, the rafter beams, which are located at an angle, have two points of support at the ends, namely a Mauerlat and a ridge bar. The latter rests through intermediate racks on the wall of the building located inside. A massive longitudinal beam can also act as a support.

Options for attaching rafters to the Mauerlat

As a feature of the building inclined frame, it is the fact that its components can have a movable and a fixed connection between them. If we are talking about a wooden building, then the last crown of a log house or a bar, which belongs to the upper trim of the walls, acts as a mauerlat. If there is a need to fasten the rafters to the Mauerlat, then the connection of the upper ends with the ridge is made articulated-movable. This also applies to the pairing of the lower part. This requirement is due to a decrease in the arising internal stresses that are inherent in the rafter frame. Such stresses are caused by temperature fluctuations, deformations of wooden buildings, house shrinkage, as well as uneven load from snow and wind. If manipulations under the ridge are carried out at a considerable height, which is not very convenient, then it is preferable to choose a rigid connection of the rafter boards. In this case, freedom of movement is left for the lower ends.

Fixing the rafter leg

When there is a need to fasten the rafters to the Mauerlat, the lower node, as a rule, is fixed in one of the following ways. The technology can be spacer, it involves the arrangement of a fixed connection unit, in this case the rafters abut rigidly against the base of the beam. The connection can be rolling. In this case, the rafter will slide along the surface of the timber, holding on to it exclusively with the help of fasteners. Both of these methods are quite widespread and have their own characteristics.

Types of fixation without a wash down and with its presence

Fastening the rafters to the Mauerlat without gash is applicable only with a sliding pairing. At the same time, the rafter leg will freely lie with its edge on the surface of the Mauerlat. In this case, corners are used as fasteners. This mounting option is not considered completely reliable under heavy loads from the roof. For this reason, it is used to bridge spans with small dimensions. In order to ensure a more reliable pairing of the components of the lower unit, the blocking saw tooth is cut out. It can be performed using a specific technology. Instead of a saw in the rafters, a persistent bar is often used, which is broken through for strength. If it was decided to fasten the rafters to the Mauerlat with staples, then the saw should be done in the rafter leg, and not in the Mauerlat. This will prevent deformation and loosening.

Types of fasteners

Fastening the rafters to the Mauerlat, the photo of which is presented in the article, can be carried out using nails and staples, as the simplest option is wire rod, which is folded in several rows. Fasteners of various types can be found on the building materials market today. Nails, which are used in the joints, exclude loosening of the fasteners. However, for this, fasteners with a notch or a so-called twisted nail should be used. If you decide to use bolts and screws, it is important to place washers or plates made of steel under them. This will prevent the fasteners from sinking.

Rules for the implementation of work on fastening rafters

If the rafters are attached to the shed roof Mauerlat, then the workpiece is placed on the ridge beam with its upper edge, while the lower corner should be connected to the inner edge of the Mauerlat. Using a piece of board that acts as a template, it is necessary to outline a line on the surface of the rafters that is parallel to the upper border of the Mauerlat. If a gash will be done, then you need to mark the persistent teeth from the inside or outside. Next, trimming along the lines is performed. When cuts are made, the markings of the corners should be observed in order to ensure a snug fit of all elements of the wooden structure. When the rafters are fastened to the Mauerlat with nails, the next step is to install the element in its place. You can now commit. If nails are used, then they must be installed at an angle through the rafter board into the beam, two on both sides. If it was decided to use brackets, then their installation is carried out from the inside of the timber approximately in the central part. Its other end is turned at a right angle towards the rafters, and then hammered into them.

Alternative use of fasteners

If the rafters are fastened to the gable roof Mauerlat using wire rod, then it must be folded in four rows, forming a clamp. With the help of it, the rafter is screwed to the Mauerlat from the outside. Most often, the connection with staples or wire is combined with other types of connections, while you get a backup fastening. Perforated mounting tape can be used instead of wire. Corners are often used. They are screwed to the upper edge of the Mauerlat on both sides of the rafter, you need to strengthen the corners to it. In order to provide more impressive reliability, the corners should be used with two rows of holes, as well as a stiffener. Instead of corners, you can use special plates that have a turn of the ends at a right angle.

If the rafters are fastened to the Mauerlat with corners, then the so-called sleds can be used. They have a sliding plate. With their help, you can provide a reliable mate that compensates for deformations. After the installation of the lower unit is completed, you can begin to connect to the ridge bar. Roofing takes half the time it takes to build a house. Material costs for it are about the same. At the same time, it is important to avoid even the smallest mistakes, which can become a source of very impressive problems when using the system.

Fixing rules

If the rafters are fastened to the Mauerlat in a wooden house, then only high-quality elements should be used. Saving in this case is unacceptable, since low-quality hardware will not guarantee the creation of a durable and stable roof. The cuts, if any, on the rafters must be done very carefully, this will avoid the need to install additional gaskets or inserts. These parts will help ensure a good connection, but are best avoided. This is due to the fact that over time they are able to deform and completely fall out. This will cause the entire structure to weaken. It is recommended to install rafters on steel plates and corners. These are best purchased before starting work on the roof. Otherwise, you will have to stop the installation for a while, which will extend the period of the manipulations. However, you can use other types of fasteners, which have been described above. But this will only be a temporary measure. To install a bar, nails and self-tapping screws are the most optimal option. To equip a durable structure, bolted connections of the type of studs are necessarily used. When installing a roof, experts recommend using sliding mounts. This technology is good for pairing rafters with a Mauerlat. The mobility of the structure is a prerequisite. Before fixing the rafters, it is necessary to prepare special recesses. They are able to provide a tight sealed fit of the elements. Templates should be used to ensure that the notches are the same. If the roof slopes are made at different angles, then the templates must be made separately. If there are cuts in the structure, then their depth should be equal to 1/4 of the width of the rafter leg. To comply with this parameter, you must additionally carry out accurate measurements.

Conclusion

When the rafters are fastened to the Mauerlat without sawing, it is important to ensure the strength and stability of the roof when exposed to strong winds. It is also important to take care of the problem of the bursting force, which has a significant impact. The roofing system must be assembled initially on the ground. This preparation is considered necessary. All measurements can be made, as well as inserts in the Mauerlat. Ultimately, you need to fit and fit the elements in place. The finished parts must be installed on the structure one by one. When purchasing hardware, you should remember that their poor quality can cause not only distortions, but also the collapse of the entire structure. It is for the same reason that it is not recommended to use a lining material, making the connection as strong as possible, since it will not loosen over time and will not suggest the need for repairs.

December 27, 2016

Are you planning to build a roof, do you need a simple structure with good strength and reliability characteristics? In this case, a single-pitched roof would be an excellent option. It will make your house, garage, extension or other structure original in its own way. In addition, the shed roof truss system is easy to install. It can be done without building experience.

Why shed

The roof structure of 1 slope has the following advantages:

When building on a pitched roof, any kind of roofing material can be used. Because the angle of inclination can be as small as possible, an almost flat roof can be built.
The sail of this design is much less than that of the dual-slope. This option can be used in areas with strong winds.
Ease of installation and operation. You can build it yourself.
Low weight compared to other types of roofing.
For a pitched roof, slopes can be built in several floors. This solution will add design to your home.
The construction of a pitched roof is the most economical and does not take much time.
In this design, the water rolls down only one side.
The roof is suitable for any type of building.

Like any other design, a pitched roof has several disadvantages:

With a small angle of inclination, the area of the attic space is minimal.
Has a less attractive appearance. What can be fixed if there is a designer's imagination.

Structural calculation

The shed roof rafter system, in fact, consists of layered rafter legs. You need to fasten the rafters parallel to each other. The rafters, in turn, are supported by two points. Basically, they are the load-bearing walls of the building.

Create a ramp angle

The required slope angle of the slope is achieved in several ways:

When developing a building project, one of the walls on which the rafter legs will lie is made slightly higher. This method is common, as it greatly simplifies the design of the rafters. But in this case, more material will be spent on the construction of the walls. The side walls running parallel to the rafters are trapezoidal.
This method is a variety 1. Also, when planning, the frame racks are taken into account. In this version, the extreme posts on one side are higher, and on the other they are lower by a certain height.
With the same height of the walls, vertical posts of the required height are installed on one of the walls. At first glance, this design is unstable, since the rafter triangles have free play to the right and left. But this fragility of the structure is eliminated when installing the frame lathing and sheathing the front part of the roof with wood.
Single-pitched farms can be used. This method is good enough in that you can build one truss, adjust it to the desired dimensions and use it as a template. And using the template, you can build the rest of the farms on the ground. There are ready-made roof trusses. They are ideally suited to any type of roofing. For them, it is enough only to install and fasten to the Mauerlat. Further, you can freely sheathe a pitched roof with a crate.
When building an extension near the house, this method is used. In this case, racks or a wall can be planned on one side of the extension, and on the other, we already have the main wall of the finished building. Attachment to it can be done using a well-fixed horizontal girder or separate fasteners, also horizontally aligned. All fixings on the wall of the building are made above the posts or the wall of the opposite side.

Determine the side of the roof slope

Often the question arises, in which direction to determine the roof slope? In the case of an extension to the house, there are no special options. The slope is made in the direction from the building to ensure free flow of water in case of heavy rains.

If a separate building is planned, then here you can choose a side. Basically, the location of the ramp is done on the back of the building. Although there are times when the slope is produced on the front side. In such a situation, the choice is based on the design style of the building, the territorial features of the site, from which side it is more convenient to lay the communication system, and the like.

But in this case, you should also not overlook some of the nuances:

The location of the pitched roof in the windy direction will be more correct. Thus, the impact of the wind is minimized. After all, the wind directed into the roof with a small angle has practically no effect on it.
For a rectangular building, you can choose the location of the slope along or across. But here it must be remembered that the rafters of a pitched roof cannot have unlimited length. For some distance, they need to be strengthened. According to the rules, the free size of the rafters is 4.5 meters. When installing a rafter system up to 6 meters, a rafter leg is required. It is placed at an angle of 45 degrees on the support bar.

The steepness of the slopes

If we are talking about a pitched roof, then in most cases the angle is not chosen up to 30 degrees. This choice is explained by the fact that the roof is highly vulnerable to wind load on the front side of the building. Although they try to build the slope of the slope from the windy side, this does not exclude the presence of wind from the side of the facade. Therefore, a steep angle of inclination creates a high lifting force. In strong winds, a high load falls on the roof structure.

A slope below 10 degrees is also unacceptable, as the load on the rafter system immediately increases during snowfall. With the beginning of the thaw, an ice crust appears at the edge of the roof, preventing the free flow of melt water.

The material of the roof covering is important for determining the angle of the slope. Indeed, for different materials, the manufacturer also indicates its own slope angle.

Depending on the material, some standard values for the slope angle can be distinguished:

Up to 2 degrees - almost flat roof. It requires at least 4 layers of coiled bitumen coating. It should be applied using hot technology. It also requires a gravel dressing embedded in the mastic.
3-5 degrees - assumes three layers of roll coating. You don't need to use gravel powder.
9-15 degrees - with roll material, 2 layers are enough. You can also use some types of corrugated board or metal.
10-17 degrees - you can lay corrugated slate with a reinforced profile.
11-20 degrees - soft bituminous shingles.
14-25 degrees - asbestos-cement slate, at 25 degrees, corrugated board and metal tiles lay down practically without restrictions.
27-50 degrees - ceramic, cement tiles.

Installation

When building a shed roof with your own hands, for a correct and reliable installation, you need to use the drawings and detailed instructions, which will indicate all the dimensions and the amount of the required material. You can create a schematic drawing yourself or find a ready-made sample on the Internet. You can also order it from construction professionals.

Before starting construction, you need to choose a ventilated or non-ventilated type of roof. The first is great for living quarters, as ventilation provides a comfortable microclimate inside the building. All this is achieved by using gaps between waterproofing materials. The second type is suitable for the construction of a terrace or storage room.

Construction of rafters with a pitched roof

The rafter system of a single-pitched roof involves a couple of popular methods for its installation:

Fastening the rafters of the pitched roof to the load-bearing walls. In this case, the roof will turn out to be more economical and less lumber will be used for it. The load-bearing wall must be at the same height as the roof. Since the upper part of the rafter rests against it.
A triangular truss is constructed, which includes beams and racks. She will unite the structure of the rafters. With this method, you do not have to build a load-bearing wall to the height of the roof, but more wood will go. This method is convenient because you can mount all the farms below using a template.

When erecting rafters, additional supports and struts will be needed. The number of such complementary elements depends on:

Slope of the slope.
Weights of the rafters.
The length of the junction points between the roof and the wall.
Roof material.
Insulating layer materials.

Rafter step

The distance between the rafters can be determined by the box on which the roof is being erected. So that the distance between the rafters is the same, the slopes on which the rafter legs rest are divided into equal sections. Depending on the materials to be installed, some values can be distinguished:

For rafters from a bar, the step is from 1.5-2 meters.
When using paired boards, the distance between the rafters is 1-1.75 meters.
The use of single boards relies on a pitch of 0.6-1.2 meters.

Also, the type of insulation affects the distance between the rafters. It is recommended that the thermal insulation layer is rigidly installed between the rafters. After installing the rafter system, you can go to the Mauerlat. It will help distribute the load on the walls.

Nuances of Mauerlat installation

Mauerlat is a complementary element to any roof. The lower edge of the rafter is installed on it. It is fastened to the load-bearing wall or between the beams of the rafter system. For fastening the Mauerlat, it is necessary to use reinforcement, if the walls of the house are made of porous material, burnt wire, if the walls are brick, anchor bolts for a wooden house.

To extend the life of the Mauerlat, you need to install it on a waterproofing layer.

Floor beams, their installation

In addition to the Mauerlat, for some designs of pitched roofs, the installation of floor beams is implied. The rafter legs rest on them. Such beams are mounted with a step similar to the rafter system. Fastening the rafters to the Mauerlat is always done with a saw. The gap between the rafters and the Mauerlat is minimized.

With a rafter system of more than 4.5 meters, rafter legs are installed. They give strength and eliminate deflection of the rafter beam. The installation location depends on the width of the spans. A gable roof of a huge area, without exception, should include rafter legs. Otherwise, it threatens to break or collapse.

It must be remembered that when increasing the step between the rafters, you will have to reduce the step of the sheathing or make it solid.

When installing a pitched roof, do not forget about some of the nuances:

You need to place the slope on the windy side. To prevent the roof from being blown off by the wind.
When calculating the rafter system, you need to take into account the climatic conditions. This is the amount of snowfall, heavy rains, wind strength. The even distribution of the load on the rafters will increase the service life.
Consider overlap when calculating materials.
The smaller pitch of the rafters of the pitched roof allows you to withstand higher loads.

An example of a lean-to garage design

The walls are built of foam blocks. The first step is to install the Mauerlat. With a pitched roof, these are 2 beams laid on walls of different heights.

A phased scheme for the construction of a rafter system consists of:

On the inner sides of both walls, we install a beam of 100x150 mm. Its installation is carried out on a waterproofing material roofing material. This will be our Mauerlat. Mauerlat fasteners are made using reinforced corners 90x90. For this we use dowels with a diameter of 14 mm.
We take a board of 50x200 mm and install it on the Mauerlat with a margin of 50-60 cm. The stock should exceed the planned dimensions of the cornice. After that, all unnecessary is cut off.
We mark further cuts on the board, the depth of which should not be more than 1/3 of the board's width.
We mark the walls so that the last rafters do not touch them. The recommended distance is 4-5 cm.
Using the template, we make the rest of the rafters. We fix it with staples or corners.
Taking into account the width of the overhang, we produce filly. We mount all the elements of the cornice so that there is a layer of waterproofing between the tree and the wall.
We cut off all the surplus and fasten the 25x100 mm wind board.

The simplest scheme for the construction of the garage has been completed. The next steps will be to install the sheathing and decking of the roofing material.

Unlike the gable version, the gable roof is used in the construction of residential buildings much less often, one might even say reluctantly. First of all, because of the external angularity and excessive simplicity. A residential building under such a roof does not look very attractive. An exception may be the author's design projects for cottages with several multi-level single-pitched roofs, they look very beautiful, but they are quite complex and require considerable effort in practical implementation.

What is the peculiarity of a pitched roof

Such a system is simpler and more affordable to make with your own hands, it is quite simple to assemble it for a garage or warehouse. Often, a pitched roof is the simplest and most effective solution for arranging simple auxiliary or utility rooms, for example, for making a roof on a brick extension to a house.

The advantages of a gable roof include the following positions:

The weight from the rafters and power trusses in the roof frame does not create bursting forces, as is the case with gable options;
The rafters of a single-pitched roof, even with a large roof span, do not require the use of a massive and thick beam, as for more complex two and four-pitched options. The main part of the load is transferred by the rafter system to the floor beams and walls of the building using struts, racks or load-bearing support trusses made of a conventional 50th plank;
The use of a pitched roof often becomes the only possible option if you need to add an extension to the main wall of the house, as in the photo, or even make a roof over the balcony.

Due to the minimum requirements for the quality and size of lumber, from which the shed roof rafter system is built, the simple installation of rafters and a roofing package, this method of arranging the roof is practically indispensable for the construction of any auxiliary buildings.

Features of the use of a pitched roof

In addition to the listed advantages and simplicity of the device, the single-pitched rafter system has its own specifics, which should be taken into account when planning the roof parameters:

Advice! The most preferable way of arranging a pitched roof would be the option of an extension to the main wall of the finished building.

Shed roof rafters

There are three main ways to install roof rafters. According to the configuration of the construction of the rafters, they have a lot in common, the main difference lies in the way of compensating for the vertical loads on the rafter.

Installation of a rafter system from short beams

With a span not exceeding 4.5 m, the rafters can be made from a bar or board with a section of 50x100 mm and installed with support on the upper and lower row of the Mauerlat. If the Mauerlat is laid in a niche below the upper edge of the wall, then the upper edge of the rafters is cut vertically, and the support surface of the board is cut with an angle to support it on the Mauerlat bar. In this case, the joint between the end of the rafter and the wall surface must be closed with an overhead cornice element.

If the rafter rests on the Mauerlat, laid on the upper plane of the wall, in this case the edge of the rafter beam is also sawn under the support on the timber, but the vertical cut of the end is made under the plane of the wall. After leveling the roof rafters, the vertical plane of the cut is closed with a film and sewn up with a board. In both cases, the rafter beams are sewn with staples or steel tape directly to the Mauerlat board.

The lower edge of the rafter can be installed with an emphasis on the masonry of the wall. To equip the overhang, "filly" can be sewn to the rafters, and the beam itself is abutted against the corner of the Mauerlat and fixed with a wire loop on the inner surface of the walls or ceiling board. Usually, this option is used for roofing made of corrugated board or bituminous tiles, as in the figure.

Roof device made of long rafters

A more complex option for assembling a shed roof is a system with a long span. With a ceiling length of up to 6 meters, it is enough to support the rafter beams with additional supports. The rafter leg is attached to the rafter board with a steel plate and self-tapping screws without a tie-in.

For spans longer than six meters, at least one intermediate support is required on the inner wall or a reinforced beam in the ceiling. With a large span, there may be two or three intermediate posts. In this case, in the transverse direction to the roof slope under the rafters, an additional run beam is laid, leveling the roof plane. Each run is installed on a vertical stand and reinforced with rafter legs and grappling.

Installing a simple truss system on cross-truss frames

The most common scheme for constructing a frame from prefabricated rafters is the option with the support of rafter beams on prefabricated trusses. In previous versions, the installation and fastening of the shed roof rafters was carried out on the basis of two walls of different heights. This gave certain advantages. Due to the high rigidity and strength of the brick walls, there were no problems associated with the occurrence of shear lateral forces when arranging the roof; therefore, the shed roof structure was assembled only for vertical loads.

In practice, such ideal conditions arise only when an extension is made to a finished brick wall of a capital building. Much more often it is required to assemble a pitched roof on a brick or cinder block box of a garage or bath with the same height of all walls. In this case, the roof rafter system will be more vulnerable to shear force from wind load.

In this version, for the assembly of the roof frame, layered rafter beams are used, laid on two prefabricated trusses or frames. One of them is combined with the main pediment of the building, the second truss is installed in the middle, on the main inner wall of the building. The entire roof structure is installed on a 50 mm board laid with a harness that acts as a Mauerlat. The board is attached to the brick of the wall with wire, steel tape and fence dowels. The result is a strong and flexible enough mount.

First, a first support frame is made. The first truss is assembled from vertical racks fixed to the base of the Mauerlat with spacer metal corners. This is the most laborious and crucial moment of work, it is required to align the upper support bar of the frame strictly horizontally, it depends on how smooth the roof slope will turn out.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the second frame, it is necessary to assemble two reference rafter beams on the ground. As usual, long rafters are made by splicing two short ones with padding over the halves of a third piece. Both rafters are laid out along the edges, with one end on the first truss, with the other end on the Mauerlat board from the opposite side, and carefully adjust the angle of inclination of both rafters.

Further, focusing on the height of the installed reference rafters, a second support frame-frame is assembled, located in the central part of the box. At the next stage, the pediment of the first frame is sewn up with a board, spacer beams and wind boards are installed, as in the photo. This will ensure high rigidity of both frames, even in strong frontal winds. This is the specificity of creating a roof on frames of increased rigidity.

The rafters are attached to the harness board with steel brackets and wire loops. If desired, you can use a bolted connection as a fastener for the rafter system. One of the advantages of layered rafters is that they can be easily spliced using two shorter planks. Most often, the two parts of the rafter are laid on the supporting truss-frames, after which the two halves are simply knocked together with nails. Each of the rafters is carefully aligned at two points - the middle support frame and the lowest point of support on the harness. Next, it remains to hammer in 100 mm nails, the laid and adjusted rafter beams.

Before performing the lathing, the side gables of the roof are sewn up with a board. This gives the entire structure the necessary rigidity and strength. Some of the rafters are made in the form of lower and upper overhangs. The end surfaces of the rafter boards are knocked out with a cornice board and the lower part of the cornice is sewn up with clapboard. At the next stage, it is necessary to tie the rafters with sheathing boards, they are laid on the beams and nailed in a checkerboard pattern. It remains to lay the ceiling and roofing material.

Various assembly options for mounting rafters on a pitched roof

In addition to the above variant of assembling the frame for a pitched roof, in practice, simpler and more affordable ways of attaching the rafter system are often used.

For example, when assembling a garden house from a bar, it is enough to simply lay the rafter beams with a certain pitch on the pediment and the upper beam of the back wall of the house. In this case, the rafters, in addition to the supporting structure for the roof, play the role of a stiffening element for the whole house.

It is quite simple to assemble a shed roof structure for a wooden extension to a house from a bar. The upper edge of the slope is installed on a beam, which rests on vertical posts nailed to the wall of the house. It can be seen from the photo that the lower support beam for the roof rafters is installed on vertical posts, the whole structure is made in the form of a frame with additional frontal stiffeners. Each of the rafters has a cut under the supporting surface of the bearing beams.

In some cases, for example, when attaching a garage to a main wall, you can use the ends of the ceiling beams to fasten the rafters, as in the photo. In this case, the rafter is rigidly attached with a pair of steel corners to the protruding end part of the beam.

Conclusion

Installing rafters for a pitched roof is no more difficult than assembling a frame for a gable roof. If you have experience working with spatial structures made of wood, like a garden house or a shed of your own construction, even a novice carpenter is quite capable of making a roof for an extension to a house.

Bikrost TKP
Chimney for a brick oven in a bath
Hipped roof
Shed roof rafter system

So, in order for the structure to serve for a long period of time, to be strong and also reliable, it is worth thinking not only about the foundation, but also about the roof. The building system of such an element plays a huge role., because it is the roof that takes on negative aspects from changes in weather conditions, as well as other situations.

The shed roof rafter system must be characterized by certain requirements, including:

Rigidity
Little weight
Quality material

Such requirements must be taken into account in order for the structure to serve for a long time.

The rigid characteristics of the element play an important role, because it is with the help of rigid elements that different parts are connected. Such elements should not undergo deformation processes. as well as spraying under no circumstances.

The basis of this design is a triangle, which is made using a special reliable frame. Each element of this frame is fixed to one another in parallel, and with the help of strong fixation, the stability of the entire structure is ensured.

Shed roof rafter system: diagram

But, if such frames are poorly attached, they will be movable, this will only lead to negative consequences... Such a roof can collapse not only from strong winds, but also by itself.

If we talk about weight, then this the roof doesn't have to be heavy... That is why this system is made, in most cases, from wood. In the event that the weight is large enough, it is necessary to make a supporting base of metal.

There are times when use coniferous trees, the humidity of which is at least 18 percent. Among the prerequisites for using trees, we note:

Antiseptic treatment
Use of flame retardants

Only in this case, the nodes in the area of which the entire system is precisely fastened will be distinguished by high strength and reliability.

The high quality of the materials used is one of the main rules... The tree must meet the following characteristics:

1-3 different grades are used... It is important to pay attention that there are as few cracks as well as knots. For one meter of material, 3 knots with a height of no more than 3 centimeters are allowed. Cracks are also allowed in a minimum amount, but not along the entire depth.
It is advisable to make elements of a bearing nature from parts whose thickness is not less than 5 cm, and the area is from 40 m2.
Planks made from coniferous trees can only be used with a length of no more than 6.5 meters, and from deciduous trees - up to 4.5 m.
It is advisable to make pillows, purlins, and also a Mauerlat from trees that are hardwood... Such material should be pre-treated with one or another high-quality antiseptic.

Shed roof structure

So, before starting the manufacture of the system, it is very important to know what are its main parts:

Mauerlat, which can be called the foundation of the system. With this part load is distributed evenly and correctly.
Run represents an element that is confident holds all the rafter legs... The ridge version is at the top, but the side elements are located on the sides.
The rafter leg is installed to determine the angle of inclination of the slope, as well as for the reliability of the entire roof, its appearance. It is this product that fixes the individual parts of the system.
The tightening helps the legs to stay in place, do not move apart. This piece connects them at the bottom.
Racks, as well as struts give additional leg stability.
Lathing represents boards, as well as trimmed beams. It is stuffed perpendicularly transfers the load to the rafter legs.
The overhang of the entire roof protects against precipitation.
Ridge is the place where two roof slopes meet. It is along this element that the crate is stuffed, due to which there is reinforcement of one or another part of the roof.
Filly are used when the length of the legs is short, as a result of which they create an overhang.

ATTENTION!

Only if the described parameters are taken into account will you get a reliable roof.

A pitched roof is characterized by the presence of one slope, which is characterized by an inclination of the angle from 14 to 26 degrees. In the case when the roof is made for a small house, the span will not exceed 5 cm, so it is recommended to make a layered version system.

The support of such a roof is made on external walls. as well as on a wall that exists inside the object. Rafter systems are used in truss rafter cases.

Roofing cake, or rather, its design, depends on what kind of final coverage option will be chosen. But, regardless of the material, this element maximizes the "life" of the roof, durability.

The single-slope type requires special attention, since it is this stage of construction that maximally affects the climate that the structure will have.

The structure of the rafter system

Fastening the rafters of a pitched roof

The fastening scheme is quite simple, since it is a parallel laid out boards that rest on two walls. To install the legs, special transitional elements are used, which are made of wood.

Depending on the material used, the following can be used as a transition piece:

Mauerlat... In the above single slope roof system, there are two wooden beams that lie separately and complete the walls.
Upper part of the foot, which is made of beams.
Top strapping the whole frame.

Although the design of this roof is simple, there are some subtleties of fastening the rafters that are important to know about.

The fact is that the nodes that are applied must take into account all the negative aspects of a material such as wood.

When designing, one should take into account the solution of the following tasks:

The ability to easily move wood parts from one another
Adaptation to the consequences that may occur after the subsidence of each wall in order to take a stable position
Elimination of all possible reasons for the violation of one or another connection

The triangles are fastened according to the scheme: the horizontal side is installed on the Mauerlat, fixed. It is very important that it has enough space for docking. with other elements.

It is important to set the rafter legs at a certain angle to the supporting elements. It should be understood that two points are small enough for a strong attachment, so there are methods that are used to avoid negative consequences.

Primarily, it is important to increase the total interaction area of the rafters as well as a support piece with:

Select cuttings
Saw down the upper and lower edges of the legs. With the help of such actions, you can easily create a support platform, increase stability.

Fastening the rafters

Rafter step

The distance between the rafters of a pitched roof is calculated depending on whether what material is chosen, as well as the section... Such calculations should be done at the stage, building codes and rules are used.

The calculation for the above roof option is very simple. There are no racks, as well as braces, as a result, only the rafters of a single-pitched roof are taken into account.

Usually, for such a roof, softwood material is used, the moisture factor of which is approximately 20-22 percent. Such boards should be characterized by evenness, the absence of blue.

Each roofing material is characterized by its own characteristics, therefore, the step of the rafters is also different:

Using the distance depends on the size of the sheet... Usually, the spacing of the beams is at least 60 cm and up to 90 cm. With a greater distance, boards with a large section - 150 mm are additionally used. It is important to take into account the use of the lathing, the cross-section of which should be 30 * 100 mm, and the installation is carried out taking into account the span of at least 50 cm.
often used, but its weight is taken into account... The beams for such a system are pre-dried. When determining the step size, the length of the boards should be taken into account. At the maximum length, it is worth making the minimum distance between the rafters. The same rule is used with the minimum length of the beams - a large step distance. Usually 80 cm is considered a safe step.
Under, which is used much more often than the two above materials, beams with a small section are used... The step in this case is equal to a number from 60 to 90 centimeters. The bar should be used with a cross section of about 50 * 150 mm.
Using you should understand that it is in the form of sheets... Beams should be placed with a distance that will not be less than 60 centimeters, but not more than 90 centimeters. The section of the bar is 50 * 200, and you can also use 50 * 150 mm. When using a smaller section, negative aspects can be expected, since such a section will not be able to provide high strength to the legs.
Under which is used very rarely, rafter legs with a section of 50 * 100.50 * 150 are used. The step is not less than 60 centimeters, and also not more than 80. In this case, the step differs depending on the roof structure.

Rafter pitch table

Installation of the rafter system

When deciding to independently install the rafters of a pitched roof, you should first prepare all the elements, and also process them with special means.

The boards should be laid on both sides of a certain roof and laid in the grooves.

Only after this is it important to attach several extreme rafters.

CAREFULLY!

Consider that it is important to hammer in one or two nails for each joint... The legs are set taking into account the previously stretched strings, after which they are nailed in the same way. After that, the lathing is installed, and the roof is also laid.

After calculation, design, there are certain stages of installation:

Installation of the supporting beam... A large timber is laid along the wall of the object. Previously, it should be scolded, soaked with an antiseptic... It is important to lay roofing material along the end of the wall; mount the timber on it at the level with the help of anchor bolts.
Processing of timber, roofing elements... It is planned to leave the board above the eaves of the roof - a level of about 40 cm on each side, depending on. It is important to consider that the steeper the angle, the less it costs to fly.... When using metal tiles, as well as corrugated board, the step is 120 centimeters. In the case when the width is more than 6 meters, it is recommended to reduce the step to 1 meter. The board cuts into the Mauerlat for strength.In contact with
In this article I want to tell you how a simple pitched roof is erected. Why did I call it simple? Simply because her roof truss consists of only rafters. No racks, struts, braces, etc. there is no. This type of roof is most often used in the construction of small garages, sometimes baths, various extensions to the house, any outbuildings, etc.

In general, when you read about single-pitched roofs in the literature or the Internet, you usually see such a statement - supposedly they are the cheapest, simplest to construct and reliable.

As for the cheapness and simplicity - I absolutely agree, but at the expense of reliability - I'm ready to argue.

Of course, maybe I live in the wrong climatic zone, but in my practice I have never seen a roof with two or more slopes collapse on a private low-rise building (for example, hip, hip, etc.). All the collapses that have ever occurred were on pitched roofs. They are almost always caused by snow loads plus the weight of people who work on the roof (for example, throwing off the same snow).

So why is this happening. I think everything is simple here. Often, developers are not very serious and deliberate in their approach to the construction of a pitched roof. Basically, one of three mistakes is made, or several at once:

An unacceptably small angle of inclination of the ramp is made;

As rafters, boards with an unsuitable section are used;

Too large a step is made between the rafters.

How to avoid these mistakes, we will now understand the example of the construction of a pitched roof over a garage.

Let's say we have a box made of foam concrete blocks with a wall thickness of 30 cm. Its dimensions are shown in Fig. 1.

Picture 1

Having started laying blocks, we must already decide on the angle of inclination of the roof slope. What should be guided by here?

I think many people know that for each roof covering there is a minimum slope angle at which it can be used. These values are presented in table 1., compiled on the basis of SNiP II-26-76 * ("Roofs" - updated version of 2010):

Table 1.

I am sure that some of you who have already studied similar tables on the Internet will be a little embarrassed when they see such numbers. I want to tell them about a little confusion that has formed on various construction sites due to the banal carelessness of their authors. Often, when making such a plate, they take the numbers from the above-mentioned SNiP II-26-76 *, but do not notice that in this document the angles are indicated in percent (%), and not in degrees, as we used to measure them from school. I will not explain now how to convert percentages to degrees. There is this information on the network (there are formulas, there are also tables). In principle, we do not need this.

Now for another remark. Each manufacturer of any roof covering (be it metal, or bituminous shingles, etc.) sets the minimum angle of inclination of the roof for its products. It is indicated in the installation instructions. For example, for different manufacturers of metal tiles, you can see the numbers at 14 °, 16 °, etc. Often these figures are higher than those determined by SNiP and indicated in Table 1.

But that's not all. All the figures given above characterize the angle of inclination of the roof, at which the given roofing will not overflow between adjacent elements under certain weather conditions. And these conditions in our country are very, very diverse. So snow loads differ significantly in different climatic zones. And wind farms in general may differ within one settlement, depending on the location of your building relative to others.

Snow loads affect the possible deflection of the rafter system, which changes the geometry of the roofing. In addition, with a large amount of snow, a so-called "snow bag" often forms on the roof (see Fig. 2):

Picture 2

Strong winds can also push rainwater through the joints of the roof elements.

At one time I looked through many different sources, but nowhere did I find a specific dependence of the minimum angle of inclination of the roofing on the climatic conditions in the region. As I understand it, no one took her out. All use values based on previous years of experience. I can say that for pitched roofs, in central Russia, it is usually not recommended to make the slope angle less than 20 °. We will also build on this value.

So, let's say in our garage (Fig. 1) we decided to make the slope angle of the ramp equal to 20 °. We will cover it with corrugated board. Now we need to decide how high the walls should be laid out. In this case, we make a low wall 2.4 meters high. This value is chosen in each case individually, depending on your personal preferences and the characteristics of your building. The height of the opposite wall is determined by a simple formula:

Н в = Н Н + В × tg α,

where H in - the height of the high wall;

H n - the height of the low wall;

B - the width of the building (garage);

α is the angle of inclination of the slope.

In our case, Н в = 2.4 + 4.8 × tg 20 ° = 4.2 m. (Rounded up a little).

Now you can start laying the foot of the garage. Please note that the last row is not laid at the high wall. Why, it will become clear later.

STEP 1: We begin construction of the roof with the installation of the Mauerlat. We use a beam of 100x150 mm as a Mauerlat (Fig. 3). It fits flush with the interior walls. Notice how the sloped wall is laid out.

Figure 3

Also, instead of a bar, you can use two boards 50x150 mm stitched together with nails. I wrote about such an example in an article about installing a Mauerlat. It describes several ways to fix the Mauerlat on the wall. In addition to them, I want to show you another one, which we sometimes use when erecting a roof on gas and foam concrete walls, when the customer does not want to make an armored belt (Fig. 4):

Figure 4

Reinforced roofing corner 90x90 is used here. We fix it to aerated concrete using two GBʺ dowels with a diameter of 14 mm. They hold great. We put such corners on the Mauerlat after about 80-100 cm.

Please note that roofing material must be placed under the Mauerlat so that there is no contact between wood and aerated concrete and metal. In all subsequent drawings, roofing material is simply not shown, but its presence is required.

STEP 2: We start installing the rafters. To do this, first of all, we need to decide on their section and the step between them. In this we will again be helped by the program described in the article ʺRoping system. Calculation of rafters and floor beamsʺ ().

I would like to clarify again. I am not the author of this program. But I always use it, for lack of anything else (more or less understandable). I am completely confident in the strength of the roofs that we have already built. This confidence comes during the construction process, when you yourself climb the rafters and when you examine the rafter system a few years after the construction of the house (I have such opportunities).

The program is certainly not perfect and sometimes you yourself have to make some assumptions. Therefore, do not judge strictly. The main thing is that all these assumptions work towards increasing the safety factor of the rafters and beams.

Let's go back to our garage. Let's take a region - Moscow region as an example. The sum of snow and wind loads will be 196 kg / m 2. Where this figure comes from, I described in detail in the article (link above). I think there is no point in repeating. By the way, just here I make one assumption in the calculation. In the program, when entering the initial data, only the value of the snow load is requested (Fig. 5). There are no graphs for entering the wind load at all. Therefore, I simply add it to the snow, although I know that it acts in a different direction (snow - from above, wind - from the side).

Figure 5

We have introduced the step of the rafters 0.5 meters. The result of the calculation (in the Sling 1 tab) is shown in Figure 6. For the rafters, boards with a section of 50x200 mm were selected. Of course the step is too small, but where to go. If we take it equal to 0.6 meters, then this section does not pass the calculation. Of course, you can take, for example, a 150x100 timber as rafters, then the minimum step will change. Here you can already improvise. I'm used to working with boards either 50x150 or 50x200 mm.

Figure 6

By the way, in the figure, the distance between the supports (4.2 meters) is the inner width of our garage.

Having determined the cross-section, we mark the rafters cuts. We take a board of 50x200 mm of a suitable length and place it on the Mauerlat (see Fig. 7). It should hang from the walls with a margin (we got 53 cm), so that after the final trimming, the cornices are 40-50 cm wide.

Figure 7

Now, using either a square or a tape measure with a small level, we mark the lower and upper cuts. In this case, we make the width of the cut equal to the width of the Mauerlat - 150 mm. The depth of the cut will be 48 mm (see Fig. 8). Such exact values are given to me by the program in which I draw a three-dimensional model of the roof (Google SketchUp). In real work, of course, there will not be such accuracy down to a millimeter, but it is not really needed there.

In other articles, when considering roofs with large slope angles, such cuts are performed not based on the width of the Mauerlat, but based on the maximum allowable depth of the cut. It is usually 1/3 of the rafter section height. Now we have 1/3 of 200 mm - that's 66 mm. We fit into this meaning. And it makes absolutely no sense to make the width of the saw more than the width of the Mauerlat.

Figure 8

So, we got a template according to which we make all subsequent rafters and install them (see Fig. 9):

Figure 9

The outer rafters do not touch the inclined walls. You can see this in the picture above. The gap is about 5 cm.

STEP 3: We make and install cornice filly (see fig. 10):

Figure 10

We make them from boards of the same section as the rafters. Roll out roofing material on an inclined wall before installing the fillies. It is not shown in the figure.

The sequence is as follows. First, we put the two extreme filly and pull the lace between them (see Fig. 11):

Figure 11

Then, with a step of about 0.8-1 m, we install the rest (see Fig. 12).

Figure 12

Fasten the filly with 2 nails (120 mm) hammered into the end through the rafter. The outer fillets can be fixed with roof corners directly to the sloped wall.

STEP 4: We install end (wind) boards (see fig. 13):

Figure 13

We use inch boards 25x200 mm.

Also, we need to lay the Mauerlat on a high wall (see Fig. 14). This can be done either with aerated concrete or with ordinary brick. Again, the tree should be separated from the other material with a layer of roofing material.

Figure 14

STEP 5: We sew the cornices from below. This is done depending on the final finish of the roof. The cornices are either sewn up completely, or, as in our case, only the belts are sewn under the subsequent siding finish (see Fig. 15):

Figure 15

It is enough to use boards of 25x100 mm as belts.

STEP 6: Now we make the crate (see fig. 16):

Figure 16

The required section of the battens can be determined in the program that is used to calculate the rafters and beams (see Fig. 5). In our example, boards with a section of 25x100 mm are taken, their pitch is 350 mm. In the picture we see the inscription - "The bearing capacity of the crate is provided".

As a base for the corrugated board, which we want to cover this roof, in order to save money, you can use unedged inch boards. But you only need to take the so-called "second board" (see fig. 17):

Figure 17

The price of such material is almost 2 times lower than that of edged material. There is only one very important remark. Before laying the boards on the roof, it is imperative to peel off the bark from them. Beetle (bark beetle) larvae often live under it, which first eat the bark, and then proceed to the wood itself. It is quite difficult to get rid of them later. Some say that it is impossible at all.

STEP 7: Well, the rafter system is ready. Now we cover the roof with corrugated board and sheathe the cornices with siding (see Fig. 18):

Figure 18

Thus, we made a non-insulated pitched roof. It is clear that this design is only suitable for cold rooms. If we are going to heat the room, then the roof will need to be insulated. Let's see what additional work needs to be done for this.

We do the first five steps in the same way as described above. Then we expose the plugs for laying the insulation (see Fig. 19). We make them from an inch (board 25 mm thick).

Figure 19

Now we lay the insulation. From the bottom to the rafters, a vapor barrier film should be hemmed. It is not shown in the figure.

If you want to build an extraordinary house, unlike the neighbors' house, take a closer look at houses under a pitched roof. It gives the building originality. In addition, the pitched roof is the simplest one in the device. So simple that you can do it yourself.

Pros and cons

Shed roofs are considered the most inexpensive and easiest to install. And this is true, especially with a small width of the building. Nevertheless, in our country, houses with pitched roofs are very rare. For the most part, this is due to the fact that two or four pitched roofs are more familiar to us - they look more familiar. The second snag is to find a project adapted to our weather conditions. There are a lot of projects on western resources, but they are designed for a milder climate, as a rule, they have a large glazing area. Finding an architect who will competently change a project you like is very difficult. But if, nevertheless, it succeeded, and the harmony of the building was not disturbed, the house turns out to be very original.

Many are intimidated by uneven ceilings in some part of the building. They are, of course, more difficult to beat than standard ones, but the result is also obtained on a completely different level - 100% original. True, this time too, it is very difficult to find a designer who can develop such an interior in the vastness of our Motherland, nevertheless, it is possible.

There is another way out - to level the ceilings by overlapping, and use the free space under the roof as technical rooms. Such options have been implemented and the owners are very satisfied. Yes, the technical rooms are in the basement and upstairs, but there are no problems with groundwater.

These are, perhaps, all the disadvantages or pitfalls that a pitched roof can bring. There is, however, one more point that can hardly be called a disadvantage. Due to the peculiarity of the structure, the roofing material on such houses is not visible from the ground. If the terrain is flat, without large differences in elevation, it makes no sense to bother with the appearance of the roof. It is better to choose simple-looking, but high-quality materials, quiet (the plane is large, it makes a lot of noise when it rains) and reliable. One of the most popular options is a seam roof. It provides the proper degree of tightness and is not very noisy. Another option is made of modern materials. Such roofs are even quieter, and modern materials can be used for 20-30 years without repair.

Shed roof device

The required slope of the pitched roof is organized due to the difference in heights of the opposite walls. One wall of the building turns out to be much higher than the other. This leads to an increased consumption of materials for the walls, but the rafter system is very simple, especially for buildings of small width.

With sufficient bearing capacity of the walls, the shed roof rafter system rests on a Mauerlat fixed to the wall. To distribute the load more evenly, the upper row of the wall masonry is reinforced with longitudinal reinforcement (for brick walls, from concrete blocks) or an armopoyas is poured over the last row (for walls made of limestone, shell rock). In the case of a wooden or frame structure, the role of the Mauerlat is usually performed by the last crown or upper strapping.

With insufficient strength of the building material of the walls, most of the load can be transferred to the floor. For this, racks are installed (step - about 1 meter), on which the girders are laid - long bars running along the building. Then the rafter legs rest on them.

When pouring an armored belt or laying the last row, studs are installed in it, with a step of 80-100 cm, with the help of which the Mauerlat is then attached to the walls of the building. In wooden houses, if you do not make an armored belt, it is impossible to lay studs. In this case, installation on hexagonal pins is allowed. A hole is drilled under the pin through the Mauerlat, a couple of millimeters less than the pin diameter. A metal rod is hammered into it, which attracts a wooden beam to the wall. The connection is tightened with the correct size hex wrench.

Shed roof rafter system

Such roofs are especially popular in the construction of yard buildings - sheds, garages. It's just that the size of the buildings allows the use of not very powerful beams, and beams are required in small quantities. With a building width of up to 6 meters, the shed roof rafter system contains almost no additional reinforcing elements (supports and girders), which is beneficial. Also attractive is the absence of complex knots.

For Central Russia, for a span of up to 5.5 meters, beams of 50-150 mm are taken, up to 4 meters, 50-100 mm is enough, although in an amicable way, you need to consider the snow and wind load specifically in your region, and, based on this, determine with the parameters of the beams.

With a distance between the walls up to 4.5 meters, a pitched roof consists of two Mauerlat bars fixed to the walls, and rafter legs, which rest on the Mauerlat. A very simple construction indeed.

With a span width of 4.5 meters to 6 meters, a bed is also required, fixed on a higher wall at the level of the ceiling and a rafter leg, which rests against the beam almost in the middle. The slope angle of this beam depends on the distance between the walls and the level of installation of the slope.

More complex rafter systems in a pitched roof with a building width of more than 6 meters. In this case, it is optimal if the house is designed so that inside there is also a load-bearing wall on which the racks rest. With a house up to 12 meters wide, the trusses are still simple and the roofing costs are minimal.

For buildings more than 12 meters wide, the system becomes more complicated - there are more rafter legs. In addition, making beams over 6 meters long is expensive. If an increase is required only by the width of the roof overhangs, the beams are grown along the edges with fillets. These are pieces of beams of the same section, connected to the beam and fixed on the sides by two wooden plates at least 60 cm long, fastened with bolts or nails, allow the use of mounting plates.

If the total length of the beams is more than 8 meters, they are usually spliced. The joints are additionally reinforced by nailing boards or mounting plates.

Options for attaching the rafters to the Mauerlat: sliding glory at the top and rigid at the top right. At the bottom right, the option of a tie-in without overhangs (used very rarely)

There may still be questions about how to attach the rafters of pitched roofs to the Mauerlat. There are no fundamental differences. All the same, a cutout is made in the rafter leg, with which the bar rests against the Mauerlat. In order not to suffer with each rafter leg, leveling its landing, sawing out the first one, a template is made from a piece of board, thick plywood or timber, exactly repeating the resulting "drank". All subsequent rafters are filed before installation. A template is applied to them in the right place, a recess of the required shape and size is circled and cut out.

This was a question of rigidly attaching the rafter legs to the Mauerlat. It is used on all buildings that exhibit low shrinkage. On wooden houses, this method of fastening cannot be used - the house settles all the time or rises slightly, which may cause a distortion. If the roof is fixed rigidly, it can break. Therefore, when installing a shed or any other roof on wooden houses, a sliding connection of rafters and Mauerlat is used. For this there are the so-called "sliding". These are plates, a state of corners that are attached to the Mauerlat and metal strips movably connected to them, which are attached to the rafter leg. Two such slides are placed on each rafter.

The choice of the angle of inclination of the roof

The slope angle of the roof is determined by a combination of indicators - wind and snow load and the type of roofing material. First, they are determined with an angle according to climatic conditions (depending on the amount of precipitation and wind loads). Then they look at the minimum recommended slope for the selected type of roofing material (in the table below).

If the desired angle is larger, everything is fine, if it is smaller (which is very rare), increase it to the recommended one. Making a roof with an angle less than the minimum angle recommended by the manufacturer of the roofing is not unambiguous - it will leak at the joints. To make it easier to navigate, let's say that for Central Russia the recommended slope of a pitched roof is 20 °. But it is desirable to count the figure for each region, and even for the different location of the building on the site.

By the way, keep in mind that different manufacturers of the same type of roofing material may require different minimum slopes. For example, one brand can be produced on a roof with a minimum slope of 14 °, another - at 16 °. And this despite the fact that GOST defines a minimum slope of 6 °.

It is also worth remembering that with a slope of up to 12 °, in order to ensure the tightness of any roofing material, it is necessary to coat all the joints of the material with a liquid waterproofing compound (usually with bitumen mastic, less often with a roofing sealant).

Determine the height to which you want to raise the wall

To ensure the found slope angle of the pitched roof, it is necessary to raise one of the walls higher. How much higher we learn by remembering the formulas for calculating a right-angled triangle. On them we find the length of the rafter legs.

When calculating, do not forget that the length is obtained without taking into account the overhangs, and they are needed to protect the walls of the house from precipitation. The minimum overhang is 20 cm. But with such a small ledge outside the building, the lean-to roof looks scanty. Therefore, overhangs of at least 60 cm are usually made on one-story buildings. On two-story ones, they can be up to 120 cm. In this case, the width of the overhang is determined based on aesthetic considerations - the roof should look harmonious.

The easiest way to determine how much you need to extend the roof is in design programs that allow you to draw a building to scale and "play" with overhangs. Everything should be displayed in 3 dimensions (the most popular program is ScratchUp). Twist different sizes of overhangs in it, decide which one looks better (if there is no project), and then order / make rafters.

Photo report from the construction site: a pitched roof on a house made of aerated concrete

A house was built in St. Petersburg. There was no project, there was a general idea, which is presented in the photo. The house is made of aerated concrete, the finish is plaster, the roof is folded, chosen on the basis of low cost, reliability, ease of installation.

After the walls were driven out, an armored belt was poured into them, into which studs (Ø 10 mm) were installed every meter. When the concrete in the armored belt reached the required perversity, a layer of waterproofing was laid on the bituminous mastic ("Gidroizol", cut lengthwise into strips of the required width). Mauerlat is laid on top of the waterproofing - a bar of 150-150 mm. All lumber used for roofing is dry, treated with protective impregnations, fire retardants.

The beginning of the installation of a pitched roof - laying the Mauerlat

First they put it in place (it lies on the hairpins, held by the assistants), walk along, knocking with a hammer on those places where the hairpins are. In the bar, the places where the pins stick out are imprinted. Now they drill holes and simply push it onto the studs.

Since the span turns out to be large, supports from a bar (150-150 mm) are placed, on which a girder is laid, which will support the rafter legs.

The width of the roof is 12 meters. This is taking into account the overhang of 1.2 meters from the front side. Therefore, the beams of the Mauerlat and the run "stick out" beyond the walls exactly at such a distance.

At first there were doubts about such a large offset - the rightmost beam hangs 2.2 meters. If this offset is reduced, it will be bad for the walls, and the appearance will deteriorate. Therefore, it was decided to leave everything as it is.

Laying rafters

Rafters are laid from two spliced boards 200 * 50 mm, with a step of 580 mm. Boards are knocked down with nails, in a checkerboard pattern (top-bottom), with a step of 200-250 mm. Heads of nails right, left, in pairs Two top / bottom right, two top / bottom left, etc.). We spread the splice points of the boards by less than 60 cm. The resulting beam is much more reliable than a similar solid bar.

Further, the pie of a pitched roof for this case is this (from the attic side to the street): vapor barrier, stone wool 200 mm, ventilation gap (lathing, counter-lathing), moisture insulation, roofing material. In this case, it is a dark gray pural.

We will carry out the insulation from the inside later, but for now we lay a hydro-wind-protective membrane Tyvek Solid (vapor-permeable) on top of the rafters.

The membrane is laid from bottom to top, fastened with staples from a stapler. The fabric that is rolled higher goes onto the already laid one by 15-20 cm. The joint is glued with double-sided tape (bought together with the membrane). Then, over the membrane, strips are stuffed, on them - a crate for a folded roof.

First, a lathing was made from a board of 25 * 150 mm with a step of 150 mm. After installation, walking along the roof, it was decided to strengthen the crate. To do this, we fill 100 mm wide boards between the already laid boards. Now there is a gap of 25 mm between the boards.

Shed roof lathing as a result

Further, on the lower pediment, hooks were filled for. They are packed unevenly, since due to the large length of the pediment, it was decided to make two receiving funnels at a distance of 2.8 meters from the edge. To ensure the flow in two directions, such a relief was made.

Next, you need to bring in pieces of metal (paintings) 12 meters long. They are not heavy, but you cannot bend them, because the "sled" disappears. For lifting, a temporary "bridge" was built connecting the ground and the roof. The sheets were lifted along it.

Next comes the roofing work, which differs depending on the type of roofing material. In this case, it was necessary to solve the problem of thermal expansion of the material - galvanized steel (pural) significantly changes its dimensions when heated / cooled. In order to provide freedom of expansion, it was decided to fasten the material to the lathing behind the fold with movable clamps with a freedom of movement of 15-20 mm.

After laying the roofing material, the overhangs are hemmed, and they are no different.

The roof needs to be brought "to mind" - the overhangs must be hemmed, but, in general, it is already ready

Well, in the photo below is what happened after finishing. Very modern, stylish and unusual.

House with a pitched roof - almost finished

Projects and photos of houses with a pitched roof

As already mentioned, it is difficult to find interesting projects of residential buildings with a pitched roof. While these buildings are unpopular with us. Perhaps just because of its eccentricity. This section contains several projects or photos of already built houses. Maybe someone will be useful at least as an idea.

Large windows are beautiful, but irrational in our climate

Split-level house - an interesting completed project

This is the prototype of what is above

The original house. Under one pitched roof there is a house and a household building, and even a part - a canopy over the courtyard between two buildings

For the construction of small buildings and houses, there is no need for a complex roof structure. As a design solution, a shed roof rafter system can be adopted. In this case, the scheme is simplified, but some nuances appear.
Advantages and features of the shed system
The advantages include:
- simple calculation;
- reducing the number of nodes and connections;
- simplification of installation;
- reduction in wood costs;
- maintainability.
A pitched roof is resistant to external negative conditions, inexpensive and easy to install
When deciding to make such a roof with your own hands, you must take into account the following features:
- the need to erect high longitudinal walls of the building or special frames;
- the complexity of using the roof space as an attic room;
- it is necessary to place a house or building on the site so that in most cases the wind blows on the high wall of the building (it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the wind rose of the construction area);
- the angle of inclination is taken depending on the used coating material.
The scheme includes the following main elements:
- two Mauerlats;
- rafter legs.
With large spans, you will need to use your own hands to install additional elements that unlock the load-bearing beams and increase their bearing capacity:
- rafter legs (struts);
- racks;
- runs;
- lie down;
- contractions.
All elements are made of coniferous wood of the first or second grade... To choose the most suitable material correctly, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- the place of felling (it is better to choose the northern regions);
- felling time (a tree felled in late winter - early spring will be stronger).
System calculation
Before proceeding with the assembly of the structure with your own hands, it is necessary to make a calculation and choose the correct cross-section of all elements.
Roofing is a responsible process in which no mistakes can be made.

Depending on the width of the building and the required cross-section of the rafter leg for the projected span, a constructive solution of the rafter system is selected.

Section selection
When building a house by professional builders, according to a pre-prepared project, a calculation is performed for two limit states, which determines the height and width of the load-bearing beams according to two requirements:
- rigidity;
- strength.
When building a private house with your own hands, the calculation can be skipped, but it is necessary to take into account the recommendations depending on the span. Rafters on a pitched roof are always layered.
1. Span up to 4.5 meters. The scheme assumes the use of solid rafter legs, without loosening with struts or struts. Convenient to use if an attic is planned: it allows you to increase free space due to the absence of intermediate supports. The recommended cross-section of rafters at a pitch of 0.6 m is 50x150 mm, for a pitch of 1.1 m, an increase of up to 75x175 mm is required.
2. Span up to 6 meters. In this case, it all depends on the angle of inclination and span. In some cases, the standard length of the board or timber is enough - 6 m.With a large angle of inclination and a span close to 6 m, you will need to join the rafter legs along the length. As additional support, struts are provided (rafter legs). At the junction of the brace to the rafter, the leg is joined along the length. The recommended section with a step of 0.6 m is 50x200 mm, with a step of 1.1 m - 100x200 mm.
3. Span over 6 meters. In this case, intermediate struts need to be made, which will take on part of the load and reduce the sagging of the beam. Correctly install the supports so that each span of the rafter leg is less than 6 meters. The calculation in this case is performed as for a multi-span beam, taking into account intermediate supports. When building with your own hands, the cross section is taken in the same way as for a span of up to 6 m (previous point). In this case, all rafters are composite.
If you plan to lay insulation between the rafters with your own hands (warm attic, attic), then the calculation takes into account the minimum height of the beams.
The thickness of the insulation should not exceed the height of the rafter legs for polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam.

If you plan to lay mineral wool, then additionally take into account the ventilation gap of 5 cm. Partly it is provided due to the supporting beams, and partly due to the counter-lattice, which is mounted on top of them.

Selection of the pitch of the beams
The step of the rafter legs depends on the following factors:
type of insulation material;
the presence of roof windows.

In the first case, the dependence is inversely proportional. The design of a pitched roof assumes a decrease in the pitch of the rafters with an increase in the span or load. For the type of insulation, the following recommended values for the distance between the rafters in the clear (clean) can be given:

foam and extruded polystyrene foam - 0.6 m;
mineral wool - 0.58m;
polyurethane foam - the step does not depend on the insulation.

When designing an attic and using dormer windows as light sources, it will be necessary to provide a rafter pitch 4-6 cm more than the window width in the places of their installation.

Tilt angle

Roof slope angle

Depending on the type of roofing used, it is allowed to take different angles of inclination of the roof slope. Below are the values for the most common materials. It is important to remember that the steeper the slope, the less the likelihood of leakage and the load on the elements, but this complicates the construction and requires the construction of a high longitudinal wall.

Ceramic tiles. The optimum tilt angle is 30-45 degrees, the allowable one is 12-65 degrees.
Bituminous (soft) shingles. Optimal - 20-45 degrees, permissible - from 6 degrees.
Metal roof tiles. Optimal - 20-45 degrees, permissible - from 12 degrees.
Galvanized roofing steel. Allowable - from 14 degrees.
Slate. Allowable is 6-27 degrees.

The smaller the angle of inclination, the lower the consumption of materials for the construction, but at the same time the load on the roof and the likelihood of leaks increase.

Work order

After the calculation is completed, they start buying material and assembling the structure.

Treatment of elements with an antiseptic. It can be done after installation in the design position, but if you plan to store wood, you need to process it immediately after purchase.
Waterproofing of contact points of materials with different properties. In the place where the Mauerlats are laid, a layer of roofing material, linocrome or waterproofing should be laid on a brick or concrete wall.
Laying the Mauerlat and fixing it to the wall. Can be performed on wire, staples, studs, anchor bolts.
Laying the rafter legs. Fastening them to the Mauerlat. Can be fastened using staples, nails or corners with self-tapping screws.
Installation of waterproofing and lathing.
Insulation laying.
Roof covering.
Installation of the bottom lathing and ceiling sheathing.

It is important to correctly select a single-pitched roof scheme, sections of elements, rafter pitch and angle of inclination. Compliance with the technology for doing work with your own hands will ensure the reliability and durability of the structure.

Fastening the rafters of a pitched roof: a thorough analysis of the units used. How the rafter system of a shed roof is arranged and the correct fastening of rafters Shed roof structures rafter systems

Hanging rafters

Rafters

Options for attaching rafters to the Mauerlat

Fixing the rafter leg

Types of fixation without a wash down and with its presence

Types of fasteners

Rules for the implementation of work on fastening rafters

Alternative use of fasteners

Fixing rules

Conclusion

Why shed

Structural calculation

Create a ramp angle

Determine the side of the roof slope

The steepness of the slopes

Installation

Construction of rafters with a pitched roof

Rafter step

Nuances of Mauerlat installation

Floor beams, their installation

An example of a lean-to garage design

What is the peculiarity of a pitched roof

Features of the use of a pitched roof

Shed roof rafters

Installation of a rafter system from short beams

Shed roof structure

Fastening the rafters of a pitched roof

Rafter step

Installation of the rafter system

Pros and cons

Shed roof device

Shed roof rafter system

The choice of the angle of inclination of the roof

Determine the height to which you want to raise the wall

Photo report from the construction site: a pitched roof on a house made of aerated concrete

Projects and photos of houses with a pitched roof

Advantages and features of the shed system

System calculation

Section selection

Selection of the pitch of the beams

Tilt angle

Work order