How to make a steep table from the tree yourself. Kitchen table with your own hands. Simple kitchen table from boards

Furniture made of solid wood highly appreciated at all times. Now she can rightly be considered a luxury item. However, everyone who has elementary carpentry skills and sufficient desire can maketable from the array with minimal investments.

Furniture should be durable, reliable, beautiful, fit your functional purpose.

Of course, it is much easier to buy a finished product and faster, but its independent production has several advantages:

1. Price. The cost of the table from the natural tree is high enough.
   

   

   However, in the manufacture of at home, it will decrease at times.

2. Quality. Selecting wood on their own, the risk of using low sample materials is reduced.
   

   

   You can choose exactly the breed that will meet all the necessary technical and aesthetic requirements.

3. Durability directly related to the quality assembly quality. Creating furniture for yourself, even a novice carpenter, will collect the design neatly and reliably.

   

   Pre-processing of all boards with special protective equipment guarantees a long service life.

4. Design . Despite the huge selection in stores, there are often situations when they like everything, but some small item would like to change.

   

   Making the table yourself, you can take into account all the nuances and create an ideal model for yourself.

5. And of course, there is nothing more pleasant than admire and use your creation every day.
   

   

   This is a great opportunity not only to save, but also make a part of your soul into the house.

Choose model table

Before proceeding with the selection of material and directly creating the furniture item, it is necessary to determine its design. The model directly depends on the functional purpose and features of the room.

For example, if the room is small, it is better to choose compact items.



In this case, a neat round table is suitable for 1 leg.

For a spacious dining room, the living room is the perfect option - a classic rectangular table.



It can also be an oval roomy table with a massive podstol.

If there is a need for a product with a large capacity, but the room does not assume the presence of large-sized items, it is worth thinking about the sliding or folding structure.



If necessary, the countertop is extended.

For novice craftsmen, it is easier to make a piece of square or rectangular furniture on the 4 legs of medium sizes.



This table is manufactured without additional mechanisms.

What breed of wood is better?

Each type of wood has its own characteristics that should be taken into account when designing furniture.



People have long been the tree considered as the main building material.

For a more convenient and detailed comparison, the characteristics refer to the table.

Table 1. The most common types of wood used in the furniture industry

Name	Average density kg / m3	Twelling strength	Characteristics
Oak	700	9,9	Very durable breed, resistant to rotting processes. Differs on a beautiful, noble texture.
Beech	670	12,1	Representative of solid rocks, easy to process, supple. However, prone to loading, which requires careful antiseptic processing. Drying is deformed more than oak.
Larch	660	9,8	Durable, resistant to rotting and deformation, has a tendency to cracking. Therefore, it is not recommended for premises in which changes in humidity and temperature are constantly observed.
Birch	630	9,0	Quite durable, resistant to deformations, chips and cracking, however, with constant humidity, it has a tendency to rot. This deficiency is easily neutralized by antiseptic processing, as the tree is easily soaked with special compositions.
Pine	500	7,4	Durable, soft, easy, deformed to a small degree. Because of its natural characteristics of the fuel when working. It is easily soaked with antiseptic compositions.
Spruce	450	6,8	Less smooth texture in comparison with pine, has a greater number of bitch. Not so well treated with an antiseptic, more capricious in processing.
Aspen	380	6,5	The texture does not have a special expressiveness, the color is whiteish green. Due to its softness, it is not crackdown, it is easily processed, it is little susceptible to rotting. However, on the surfaces from this material there may be traces from mechanical impacts (for example, if the child will draw with a strong pressure on the handle or pencil)
Fir	370	5,9	Soft breed, poorly tolerate moisture is subject to rotting processes, so it is not suitable for furniture, which will be used on the street or in rooms with high humidity. It is easily processed, which will simplify the work of novice carpentry masters.

So, carefully examining the table, it becomes clear that soft wood rocks (aspen, fir) will be simple in operation, but during the service can disappoint due to its exposure to mechanical effects and low moisture resistance. It is better to stop your choice on more solid varieties, such as pine, larch, beech and oak.



Heavy-duty wood breeds (HRB, TIS, etc.) We have not considered, since their processing is extremely difficult at home.

Necessary materials

For the manufacture of the table, the following materials will be required.

• Bar 40 mm x 40 mm for fastening the support part to the tabletop and giving the structure of strength and stability.
• Bar 70 mm x 70mm for the manufacture of legs. If the design provides classic carved bales, and the experience of wood processing does not allow them to make them independently, you can always choose the appropriate option in the furniture accessory store and purchase ready-made items of the product.
• Boob and for the table top (thickness of at least 40 mm).
• Glue for wood.
• Furniture waders and confirmants.
• Antiseptic.
• Varnish or azure for wood processing.

The number of boards depends on their width and alleged table size.

Tools for work

All the tools you need can be divided into 3 groups.

1. Measuring tools:

• Metal line 50-100 cm;
• Roulette;
• Metal Cornel;
• Manual level 50-80 cm.

Tools for creating furniture with your own hands.

1. Tools for working with wooden surfaces:

• Saw / hacksaw;
• Jointer;
• Grinding machine, sandpaper.

Required tool kit.

1. Tools for assembling Product:

• Wedge or screw clamps;
• Kiyanka (suitable as a wooden and a rubber brisk)
• Screwdrivers with different edges;
• Drill, screwdriver.

We make a table of wood with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions

Table top

Carefully treat everythingboards.

Having achieved a perfectly smooth and smooth surface, drill in each end of the hole under the waders in a step of 10-12 cm (for extreme boards they should be made only on the one hand).

All edges should be corded, and sanding the surface.

After careful cleaning from chips and dust, they need to be labeled with special joinery glue (the use of PVA).

The boards are then bonded with each other using wooden wrenches placed in harvested holes.

Important! When gluing the drawing in different directions. So the strength of the product increases, the risk of its deformation is reduced.

When the cloth from the board is collected, it is necessary to dry it, consolidating with the clips.

After complete drying, cut the excess glue with a construction knife and treat the surface with a grinding machine.Ready shield treat special antiseptic.

Thus, on the manufacture of a canvas from a tree requires one day of work.

Podstole

Consider the process of creating a standard podstol (4 legs and a rectangular frame).

Screw the necessary bars for all items necessary, treat them with a grinding machine or manually emery paper and cover the antiseptic.

To save time, it is better to produce a procedure in parallel with the worktop.

When the prepared elements are ready, secure a pair of legs with less transverse bars with furniture screws.

Previously, they can be lubricated with glue.

Important! Self-tapping screws are screwed from the inside at an acute angle to the surface.

In the same way, cross the legs with long bars.

In the center of each leg, drill holes for further assembly of furniture.

If you plan to dotable two-color, painting of prepared elements should be carried out before the final assembly. If the product is one color, collect the design and color it entirely.

Final installation of the product

Place the countertop on the smooth clean surface face down and start working:

Apply from above the prestole as it should be attached and outline with a pencil on the inside.

Mark the locations of parts connections in increments of 200 - 230 mm on both surfaces.

Drill the holes in the substole and the tabletop, remove the chips on them, wake the glue and collect the product with special furniture mounts (as in the manufacture of a wooden canvase). If necessary, use the Cyans.

Leave the product to dry on the day (at least 12 hours).

The final stage

When the design is assembled, make a final grinding, apply decorative elements in accordance with the design project and cover several layers of varnish or lazories.

Adhering to the instructions, you can easily make a table of wood with your own hands.

Important! Each coating layer must dry completely. Therefore, the final finish of the table will take at least 1 day. Therefore, the process of creating your own masterpiece from the massif will take you about 3-4 days.

Spending the minimum amount of cash and several days, you will get reliable and durable diningtable of boards and oak, pine or other material you like, and a lot of positive emotions.

So you learned how to make a hand-made table from the wood array.

Video: Dining table made of wood array with their own hands.

This furniture object is one of the most universal applications. The table can be a table, economic, installed in a residential room, on the veranda, territory, in the workshop, and so on. In short, it is impossible to do without it. But the purchased products of many do not suit on a number of parameters - sizes, constructive features, form or for a different reason.

Considering that the tree is relatively easy to reveal, grinding, make the table from it on its own drawing, do it yourself for a good owner is not a problem. Yes, it will come out much cheaper. Plus - satisfaction from such work.

Room

It is ideally an extension, a barn, an empty garage, although a small platform under a canopy is suitable. Working with a tree on a plot, in the open sky - it means completely depend on the weather whims. If there are suitable for the manufacture of furniture "Square meters", then it should be disturbed in advance about high-quality ventilation. Natural is sometimes not enough (moreover, it depends on the change of the direction of wind and pressure), and the exhaust is established.

Arguments that if you use the means of protection, it is possible to work in a closed space, you cannot withstand any criticism. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including, and on the sample, with which some actions are made. Neither exact cutting line, nor high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention the impregnation and finishing coating with paints and varnishes) can not be obtained.

It is impossible not to take into account the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnation,: if they are not natural, then harmful evaporation is guaranteed.

Instruments

Their set depends on how much it is planned to "reflect" a simple design of wood, which kind of form and a number of other nuances are. If the master does not claim the elegance of the wooden table, does not aim to achieve its originality, then the usual carpentry set is quite enough.

For more "fine" work in the process of manufacturing a table of unusual forms, external design will need special devices.

Al / Lobzik. An ordinary saw to make an inclined vertical dug, accurately withstanding the angle, will not work. The canvas will "play" because the quality of work will be extremely low. Lobzik electric universal in use, moreover, gives high accuracy of cutting wood or cutouts in it.

Stuslo swivel. The main function is to relieve the corner cutting. This device can or buy, or do. The thing is, no doubt, is useful in the house. An indispensable assistant to accurately cut a variety of blanks. For example, plastic or wooden cartoons (floor, ceiling), which are made in the process of repairing any premises.

Grinders. The market has several modifications of this email tool, and the criteria for its choice is a separate question. For the manufacture of the table, the tape is quite suitable. It is universal in use, and is used not only when assembling furniture.

Manual frezer . If it is necessary to select the grooves, hole processing and in a number of other cases it is not without it.

Many of the listed devices can be leased if the manufacture of furniture is not a hobby, but the need.

Impregnating and other formulations

Protection against rotting:

• Operating machine oil - effective, besides a free tool. But not for dinner tables.
• Linen oil. Natural and effective product, deeply penetrating the structure of the tree and protect it from mold and fungus. Minus - high cost. But if the table is intended for meals - an excellent option. The drug has no color, because after processing lumber, there are no traces in the form of darkening, stains, divorces leaves, unlike the development.
• Emulsion water-polymer. It is characterized by durability and safety for health.
• Acrylic varnishes. They practically pushed their predecessors of the category "NC", as harmless and in many indicators it is better than the compositions that are bred by solvents.
• PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More information about carpentry compositions.

To decorate a tree:

• Colorless varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can save the texture of the tree, strain it.
• Moruli.
• Lucky with coloring effect (toning).
• Paints (but only for wood!).
• Putty.

Using colorless varnish and pigments, you can make a coloring composition, with any shade. It is enough to correctly determine the equity ratio of components. Make it easy, conducting experiments with mixing and inflicting a sample on a discarded board. This will make it possible to choose an acceptable tone. More than appropriate, as it is not always possible to purchase on the market.

Fasteners

All tips on the assembly of the wooden table with the help of nails (argument is simple, quickly and cheap) is better to ignore. The reasons are as follows:

• A nail is easily rolled with a dry tree (and it is like that; about it is slightly lower).
• It is quite difficult to correct it with the leg (strictly vertically). To redo their mistake in some cases is even more difficult.
• A tree, even the most protected from rot, with time it gives away. Maintainability of a table shot down by nails is extremely low. Practice shows that remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts rarely when it turns out. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element will have to be changed 2 - 3.

• When assembling a wooden table, if one adhesive is not enough, it is worth using self-tapping screws.
• Sometimes separate parts (in places of compounds) require gain. Strengthen the strength of the meticome with a thicker and long leg is inappropriate. The reason is the same - the likelihood of a tree split. For these purposes, metal strips, brackets, corners are used.

Features of the choice of wood

Someone is focused on the cost of lumber, the stability of the tree to rot, for the third, its texture is important. What can be recommended to the novice mast furniture-maker? Do not use for the table, if it is not intended to be installed somewhere in the back or garage, the same tree tree. It is so many beginners "craftsmen" and come, selecting the same type of boards and bars from what remains of construction or repair and dust in Saraj.

Making a wooden table for residential premises, verandas and so on, you need to take into account the properties of individual rocks. Naturally, if there is no sufficient experience in assembling furniture, it is worth paying attention to cheaper wood. The first in life table (chair, stool) is just a kind of training in the manufacture, obtaining experience.

Countertop. Here in the first place is the strength and minimum absorption of moisture. It is for this part of the table constantly something sheds. The optimal choice is pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness - at least 3 cm.

If the sizes of the table top are small, then can be used by wood-based slain products (, awning and similar). But only with lamination to prevent the felting of the material when the liquid falls on the surface. For example, LDSP.

Legs. Birch. From moisture, it can and "Tale", but in terms of strength - a great option. The optimal parameters of the blanks for the legs (in cm) are considered: the length is about 76, the cross section is 5 x 5. Sucks. Acacia. It is much easier to find than boards from the frequently recommended sshit tree.

In the furniture industry, low-grade sawn timber are not used. It is economically inappropriate, since the pre-treatment of wood increases the duration of the production cycle. But when making anything of the lower grades, non-thendition - just right. The same pallets remaining after using foam blocks or bricks.

And not only because it is free or is relatively cheap. Many minuses of such wood with a competent approach can be turned into pluses. For example, after covering, a colorless lacquer, a tabletop acquires a unique original look.

The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, dropping bitch and wormwort.

If pine is selected for the table top (this also applies to many other coniferous rocks), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arcs are called clutches. On sections of the boards, they can see how they are oriented, and this is taken into account in the process of their laying in a row. Samples obtained by the method of cutting tangential are located with alternation (the hunchback down, the following - up); Radial cutting - equally (arcs in one direction). Nuance is insignificant, but it is precisely compliance with this recommendation excludes the risk of warping and splitting the boards.

For furniture, if you think about her durability, you should take only a dry lumber. During the wood drying, it will be deformed; This is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, bends are inevitable. Such a table will quickly quickly be done, and will have to be repaired. And here you need to decide - to purchase high drying wood or rid it from moisture yourself. The first option is easier, but such a tree is more expensive. The second will cost cheaper, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.

1. First, it is necessary to provide stable temperature at the place of storage of blanks. Its values \u200b\u200bwill lead to the uneven evaporation of moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
2. Secondly, good ventilation should be organized.
3. Thirdly, and, perhaps, this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait for about six months, depending on the initial humidity of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be expected; Even in this business need practice.

This once again confirms the idea that starting to make furniture made of wood for the first time, you should focus on the simplest table for household needs from a cheap lumber, without claims for its sophistication and originality of the design. For example, for a shed, garage and the like.

Wooden Table Options and Schemes

It should be immediately noted that any work related to design and self-assembly is a creative process. In this case, stereotypes do not exist, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else is linear parameters, the form, the specificity of the manufacture - depends on the purpose of the product and its own imagination. Here are just a few examples, what can be wooden tables. For example, for country sites, small utility rooms are worth choosing structures, the geometry of which is easily changing - folding, hiking, suspended, garden, level and so on.

Tables that are supposed to use for food, games, as journal for installation in residential rooms by target purpose, are made stationary, that is, unchangeable sizes. This assembly is more "solid", since all articulated parts are fixed hard; No hinge connections.

Features of the build of wooden tables

If a person is taken to make something, it means that he knows how to use the tool, read the drawings and work with sawn timber. Such a home master is not needed to learn Azam joinery. But a number of nuances in the manufacture of a wooden table will notice it is worth it. These comments will only help in the process of work.

Let's start with the types of compounds. There are quite a lot of them, but for a table that is going to do it yourself, it is quite sufficient.

On the shtacks

In this case, the fastening of the parts is made on the adhesive composition (Fig. 1 - 3).

The nuance is that for the manufacture of "cylinders", which are inserted into the in advance drilled "channels", takes the tree of a more dense structure than the elements of the table. This is what ensures the strength of the compounds. Before installing them from the edges of the waders and holes, chamfer is removed.

These round sticks are available, in any furniture cabin, several sizes. Pull them, even having a carpentry machine - an irrational time spending. Acquire plastic wades for the table are not recommended; They are used for collapsible connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level racks and the like).

It is not worth applying for fixing the elements of the table of the table (Fig. 4). Metal and wood are distinguished by the degree of temperature expansion. Such a connection will not last long - "Shat" will begin, especially if the table is intended for installation on the territory or in an unheated room.

On the Tsarga

Such connections are advisable to do if the table has or periodically disassemble, or without it it is impossible to transfer it through the doorway. Although not all kings suggest dismantling the design. The most practitioners are shown in the drawings.

Bolt

Such connections are used mainly for garden furniture or installed in extensions; For shopping tables. An example is shown in the picture.

Nuance work with fastener

In order for the screw to be easily screwed and "walked" in the right direction, pre-at the point of its installation drill, a slightly smaller diameter than the fastener leg, a hole is done. The main thing is to withstand the coincidence of the axial lines, that is, prevent skeur. In this case, it is possible to do without a screwdriver for the "landing" of self-supersay.

Wood processing features

The fact that the plans is first used, abrasive with a large grain, and then small, know everything. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, grinding, has to be engaged repeatedly. Here a lot depends on the tree of the tree and the degree of its drying. After applying the first layer, Varnka Varnka can "stand up". Nothing wrong with that. It is necessary to wait for the billet and repeat it with abrasive processing. Work is painstaking and takes time. But it is precisely for such a technique that you can bring the "problematic" wood to the perfect "smoothness".

To exclude the risk of human injury, all edges, the corners of the table should be repeated a little.

Features of the exterior decoration

• Small defects in the form of cracks, chips are eliminated with a putty composition.
• At the end of the grinding, it is necessary to remove all wood dust. In this case, the usual household vacuum cleaner will help with an appropriate nozzle. It is recommended after such a cleaning to wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let me dry and repeat the cleaning of dust residues. After that, you can safely begin to apply the veil or varnish - "katoshkov" on the tree will not be.
• It is possible to give the originality of the table not only with the help of curly cuts, an unusual form of table top or legs, a combination of texture of different breeds and so on. One of good options is an artistic painting.

And finally. Work on the independent making of anything from the tree (the same table) is just the initial stage of mastering the skill of the "collector designer". Having worked out technologies, methods on wood, acquiring the necessary skills, just just go to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefit from the wooden table made even by the most simple drawing (except pleasure from work and saved money) is obvious - no wonder the time spent.

Kitchen restaurant kitchen table as such. Probably, even over it: large flat stones at the foci, served by cutting, handouts and dining tables, were found in parking and in settlements of primitive people; They preserved the remnants of products and food. In this article we will see how to make a kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only save the enynu amount (in general, it is not a ruinous), but also will provide an opportunity to purchase the initial joinery skills, which may continue to be much more significant. In the kitchen tables, the most common types of furniture compounds are used, but its design forgives rather coarse flaws in the work. There are perfectly looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which is enough to be able to saw a piece of the board and complete the screw.

The table in the kitchen gives considerable possibilities of creative expression: the skills here you need a lot less than fantasy, but failure will not spoil the whole interior. Samples of original kitchen tables in the photo are below are quite available for making with your own hands, but before you need to feel the design and material at the base level in what we will try to help the reader.

Make a kitchen table can be at least 15 different ways., including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, we, firstly, limit ourselves to kitchen tables from a tree, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the lowest labor costs, cash and time.

Secondly, we will deal with table tops with rectangular or rounded corners. Round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more useful area than rectangular to the same amount of consumers. Moreover, the first value refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and it is necessary to serve on the table through the shoulder of the seated. This is already refer to the category of parodies on the rules of good tone. Like, how to tilt the plate, coming soup: to yourself or from ourselves? Answer: Depending on what you want to pour, yourself or a tablecloth. In addition, the round table in a small kitchen is stronger than the rectangular of the same capacity in T. Naz. Triangle functionality, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is ordinary, 700-780 mm, Considering from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of medium growth optimal, the height of the table is 750-760 mm. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the triangle of functionality: refrigerator-washing plate. Ideally, it should be rectangular to be chaled with customers of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen is much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the injection of the dining area in the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over washing or stove was bent, and rested in seductive forms in the worst cheek just when that spoon to the mouth was raised. Therefore, the table is in the kitchen, especially economical layouts, it is advisable to do smaller, if only consistently it was convenient.

The minimum allowable sizes of the family kitchen table in the plan is considered to be 600x900 mm. For loners, let's say a table of 450x750 mm, as in the railway carriages. In this case, it in the "microcouphne" or the kitchen zone of small-sized odnushki is also allowed to also make a wall folding, see below. But the optimal sizes of the kitchen table countertops are considered (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the cashier and user complex.

What to do

Traditional kitchen table - on a prestole pos. 1 in fig. Podstoli is the carrier frame of their placard placed on the edge of the head. Tsargi can be tightly bonded with the feet of the table, and the table top is freely imposed on them; those. Its fasteners prevent only horizontal offset. Such a table of kitchen sizes is simpler constructively and stronger, but to bring it harder, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the kings are tightly fastened with the worktop, and the legs are removable. The countertop in this case is needed durable and not from any, suitable in pre. case, material, and the design is harder. But there are no problems with drift / removal. Both of these variants of the classic kitchen table will be described in more detail below.

The table on the prestole can be artistically decorated, pos. 2. Make a kitchen table of artistic appearance at all is not so difficult as it may seem. The basis of its design - the accurate shaped legs - perfectly obtained from the available balasine for the rail (see below). Figure washed the Tsarg for a novice wizard who knows how to handle the electrolovik, the problems are not present. Calewing remains - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the CARG. For her, you can rent a manual milling machine with a cut-off profile with a cutting profile, the work itself, the work on the vehicle pickup takes less than an hour plus 10-15 minutes of workout on some trimming.

No less common tables of beam construction, pos. 3. They are in the simplest performance (2 options see below) looks like tables with understand. However, to fulfill them in the design of a high class (pos. 4), a well-equipped carpentry and solid production skills are necessary. The beam tables require more material consumption, but their indisputable advantage - they can be fulfilled completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a bearing tabletop without a podstoly (pos. 5) are also very often found in the kitchens. In factory execution, this is perhaps the cheapest view of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a tabletop of post-standing (see below) will cost somewhere in 2500 rubles, and the assembly will take from the force of the Pole. But with a completely independent manufacture of such a table, a beginner will face some essential nuances, see below.

Tables books, they are tables-stands, pos. 6, initially produced a furyor due to their compactness in the folded form and the possibility of using half-version, but then there was a period of some disappointment. First, as for such a table, nourish the legs are inconvenient. Secondly, in the first samples, the ficker of the swivel support was the simplest, from the pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap, equal to the thickness of the support, to the top of the table top. The external plastic of the bars was often shot on a wedge so that the support for them was not cling when laying up the table. However, if you accidentally pry the tabletop with a knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, without a soyanka with cutlets and mashed potatoes on trousers and semi with such tables it was not necessary, but a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical retainer went out very complex and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur masters, and serious manufacturers improve this, in principle very promising, the design, which in this publication will further be devoted to a special section.

Wall folding tables, (pos. 7), occasionally occasionally in very tiny kitchers. Most often - busy bachelors who are accustomed to do everything standing, even sleep on the carpet before the bosses, because They have all the shortcomings of the books-books almost without the possibility of improving. Serving tables (pos. 8) The farm is used much more often, but this is a separate class of furniture objects with their specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to mention.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood or materials, few or not at all exposed to shrinkage while drying: oak, ramp, housing, wenps, LDSP, MDF. The usual business wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its leaks of temperature, moisture and the organic pairs in the air in the air in 5-7 years starts to breed and even impregnated and under varnish. On the other hand, the size of the kitchen table is small. It follows some of the features of its manufacture, ultimately allowing to simplify work.

Table top

This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the optimal option is to buy a ready-made tabletop from post-forming, they are produced in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled stove from LDSP with rounded ribs, trimmed under a tree or other material. The advantages of post-forming applied to the table for the kitchen are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed. But not as an example, countertops are solid, complicated from the board, etc. Array of wood or furniture shields. Rapidating boards in an array - work is quite thin and painstaking, for this, special devices are used - Viima. If you have a desire to try yourself in the manufacture of furniture from the massif, we offer a selection of video:

How do you collect the furniture shield with your own hands:

How to make a boiler table top of a kitchen table:

How to make a countertop from the end spikes of a tree:

In the last video, the material is a throttle, but the species can be achieved - the sharp oligarchs are dried.

Sucks, Confirmates and Sucks

Traditionally wooden furniture is going on the wizards. The duct connection is invisible and cheap; Just in case we will remind you what it is and how is done, see fig. For the connection of wooden parts, the wooden droplets, drying together with the connected parts are used; Practically does not dry LDSP connected by plastic waders. Corner plastic ducts are little used, because often break. Connections with wooden wanks, as a rule, are sampled.

Beginner craftsmen are often difficult to achieve accurate markup under the dust connection. Tricks, like marking of blurred nails (pos. 4 in Fig.), It is not always helped, and it is impossible to remake the wrong dummy connection, both parts go to the departure. Therefore, newcomers are better to collect their first products on furniture Evromba - confirmates. It is more expensive, but no special skill requires, because The well under the confirmation in both parts, compressed clamp, drills into one occasion, see fig.

Details from LDSP or dense small-layer wood connected by configmatics, keep long years. All designs described below can be assembled both on the sews and confirm. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be followed:

• Use precisely furniture for wood, and not plumbing configmatics for plastic. They differ at first glance: the furniture slot under the hexagon, and at the plumbing under the Cross screwdriver.
• The diameter of the body of the confirmation without a thread when attaching to the end should be no more than 1/5-1 / 3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
• The height of the cervates must match the thickness of the main part.
• Blowing the threaded part of the confirmation in the attached part must be at least 5-6 complete confine diameters.
• The well (deaf hole) under the confirmation is drilled on its full length of its head.
• The main drill to use only spiral wood.
• The main drill is necessarily filled with a mandrel, exactly corresponding to its diameter and the screw siza.
• The wells for confirmates drill the main drill of the diameter equal to the diameter of the thread confinal.

In practice, to fulfill these conditions, even the perfect "teapot" is easy:

1. In the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmation without thread;
2. On the Internet about confirmates of the information, which can, know the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the depth of drilling, determine the desired size. It is better to immediately open pictures on request "furniture screw (or confirm) drawings sizes";
3. We are looking for a trading point where the seller on the request to show furniture configmatics shows themselves;
4. We say: "I need so much of such a size and drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer one-piece drill to such confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about the wanks. It is best to put a taking place (freely pronounced) table top of the classic kitchen table. Including And for such purposes, plastic waders with a rounded head or a woven widths and a different type of ripples on a long swallowed and short protruding parts are available, see fig. on right. The first fasten table tops are thick, approx. from 20 mm; Secondly - which are fond.

Different tables

Classic

Classic tables on the prestole at the same time with legs (pos. 1 in Fig.) Traditionally bind (collected) on spike-groove compounds, which is quite difficult and time consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a spiral drill on a tree and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, whose ledge cross-section is not less than 60x60 mm (the balasine is usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions in terms of approach. 750х1500 mm to do with the joint of the tree by self-drawing, pos. 3. In any case, the external CARG CARD must defend from the outer surfaces of the legs of the legs of 1.5 cm, so it is necessary for total strength. The minimum permissible height of the Kitchen table kitchen table is 120 mm; Thickness - 30 mm.

The compound by self-drawing is extremely desirable to reinforce the diagonal ties in the corners (pos. 4, at the top) from the same board as the tsargi. If the countertop is not expected to be removed without extreme need, then it is possible to refuse it from the time consultation. Then, at the corners of the finished carrier frame in the kings, trimming of the same boards - crackers are cut - and a countertop will be attached to them with self-draws, pos. 4 below.

Table top of the classic table with removable legs should be thick of 24 mm (LDSP, plywood) or from 30 mm (wood massif). Countertops from dr. Materials, eg Artificial stone, suitable for tables on the substole, at the same time with the legs here are not applicable. Due to the large difference in the thermal expansion modules and the tree, the table will soon be overwhelmed.

Further, the kings are attached to the tabletop with long confirmation through the end, on the left in Fig., With the sizing joinery and pva. With the help of conventional wood screws, it is difficult to achieve an accurate assembly, because They are without a cervix holding the joint from the offset.

The next moment is driven in the corners (in the same place in Fig.) It is necessary necessary, wooden mortise or ready-made steel overheads. The legs in the corners are attached by conventional ways, on the right in fig.

Table box

Retractable box is a classic classic kitchen table constructive module. The guides for the table drawer are the same as for the bedside tables, chest, cabinet. Since a large weight load in this case is not expected, and the smoothness of the drawer and the possibility of its complete extension of great importance does not have, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which keyboard boards of computer tables.

The furniture drawer device is shown to the left in Fig. Collect his tray on the old manner on the drawn spike (right in Fig.) It is not necessary, you can self-strain in the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the king box is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fixed with a furniture stapler, but not quite reliable. It is better to attach with self-drawing through the cranial bars along the bottom contour. The facade of the box can lean on the facial tsard of the table or enter it flush, it does not matter.

To install the box, the table in the longitudinal facial targe is cut out the opening of the cross section of the drawer tray, plus letters on the sides on the guides (indicated in the specification on them), plus 3 mm in the contour. Then the side support boards for fastening the guides are installed. They are fixed to the longitudinal tsargam from the inside with the help of lining bars. It is not necessary to fix with the countertop, obsolete. Next, collect the box, attach to it and to the supporting boards of acc. Details of the guides, pushing the box in place, that's all.

Very simple

A completely simple, but well-looking kitchen table of classic appearance can be made on the carrier frame from the boards, see fig. on right. Its length, if the cross section of the Tsarg is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Countertop - any weight of up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, it is one principal moment in this design. The second is transverse screeds from a bar 50x15, they give the whole design the desired stiffness. So, although this table looks classic, in fact he is already a beam.

Beam

Drawings of pairs of kitchen tables of the beam design are given in fig. At the top - completely collapsible without tools. The countertop is structurally any, put on the wanks, although the style of this table (Rustic) fully corresponds to only the table top from the wood array. The option of its fastening from the ultra without a wizard on the cranial bars is shown on the insertion in the center of the right.

In this product, the lower stumbling block may appear the lower bandage (longitudinal screed) with a beveled through groove under the wedge. In fact, everything is very simple: the lower gleaming is assembled on glue from 3-layers of 10-mm plywood or boards. How the beam kitchen tables of this type are made, you can see the following video:

Video: do-it-yourself table by components

The table, the drawings of which at the bottom in fig., Has 2 features. The first, all material is a board with a width of 120 mm, the bar is not used. The second - under the tabletop is provided only by the tray, and it can be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or her debris and others. The gap between the countertop board and the tray of the tray is prone to clogging, but also to remove the tabletop for cleaning too easy. So Rustic is or modern, the kitchen is a table, the future or magazine, you decide.

Without a substoller

Factory kitchen tables without sheets are usually produced with post-standing countertops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who wish to make something similar on their own under the wooden countertop will face the following trowes.

The first, the substolenik is still needed, from a wooden bar from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stresses in the boards always flock to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all the 3rd dots of mounting the feet should be strained about the same, otherwise the fastening is separated by itself. The blocking from the bar is expanding the fan of stresses in this place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace the solid strapping of the corner linings, there will be no sense from them.

The second is the table top. Full-handed threaded nests for mounting row of legs (pos. 3) are designed for LDSP or dense small-layer wood. If the tabletop is pine, etc. The layered sufficiently soft tree, then the sockets can, breaking the layers, get out back to the installation time. And the likelihood that it will happen when someone is an intense pushing the table close to 100%

And the third is the feet of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without sheets from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often sympathetic, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, very and very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy ready with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than typing a set under self-assembly in retail.

Books and Cheburashka

On the disadvantages of the table of the original design (see fig. Right) above already mentioned. In fig. Below is the drawing of the desktop design (only one swivel support without wings of the table top), eliminating their amateur, but efficiently. Simply, the width of the swivel support is reduced compared to the wing of the table-tops more than twice (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support turns 90 degrees, it became convenient to sit as you want. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the table, keeps it even better than oblique, and to raise the worktop to the exit of the top plank of the support from the simplest retainer (see above), the knees need to shove so that it will be very uncomfortable. The overall stability is provided by the legs of the table section, which should be done as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, swivel supports must be brought down to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was also applied in a wall folding table (pos. 1 and 2 on the next. Fig.), But here it works on the operational reliability of the hanging corner of the support. What is quite applicable in before Case: no contraindications for the execution of the support in the form of a convergent metering a trapezium.

The proprietary solution of the problems of the desk books is the removable legs stored in the end. Put them not much stuck than catch the swivel ficker on the table top. Such a table book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no lock, because He is simply not needed.

The next step of the evolution of the desk books is a design with a big width table and a 1st leg for each tabletop wing. The legs twice smaller than the table is cheaper. Its stability due to the extension of the stands only increased, it is generally convenient to sit, and places in the end (which is always lacking in the kitchen) it became more.

Such kitchen tables had to taste to consumers that they had already been assigned the nickname - a table-Cheburashka. Probably remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, built, and finally built." Folding kitchen table, how should he be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with a living room or you plan to combine them, then think about the kitchen table and do not need to replace it on the column. On the bar is not only drinking, it can also be on it. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area goes outside the kitchen, and the remaining is used episodically and does not embed into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. In a 5-dimensional kitchenette in the bar - the apartments separator to work and dinner more convenient than 8-9 meter cuisine of Brezhnev. Will not believe? Calculate.

The kitchen table is not worth it in itself. To plant consumers, you need to add 400 mm by contour, and another 300-350 for approach. As a result, the 900x600 mm table is required approx. 2.5 square meters. m "living space", and table 1200х700 mm and all 3.5 square meters. m. Drink such a thick chunk in the kitchen of ordinary sizes, without leaning the functional triangle schochka, very, very difficult. It is also here even if two will sit behind the counter side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not disturbed, and to file the hostess before everything.

Some of the famous culinary culinary culinary one day: "Kitchen is conservative, like a digestive tract." Here he, of course, begged and leaving. Something like a plate, refrigerator, kitchen combine and microwaves in our stomach is not detected, although the kitchen is really conservative. But in the most conservative sphere, sometime, there comes a moment that requires indigenous changes.

Regardless of the size of the kitchen, whether it is a spacious kitchen in a new building, a country house or a small in a small mystery, the most important interior item is a kitchen table. For the production of tables today, various building materials are used, for example, glass, metal, stone, plastic, wood. But from all these materials, the tree is still used more often. If you want to save, the kitchen table can be performed independently. With this scenario, you can save up to 70% of the cost of the table. But it should be pre-work well and take into account a large number of factors that we will consider with you in this article.

We make important measurements and calculations

Before proceeding to the work on the manufacture of the kitchen table, it is important to make some calculations. Typically, such tables are calculated on a specific number of people. As a rule, this number fluctuates from three to nine. But it is best to consider a couple of additional places when calculating the guests. If you are hospitable hosts, then most likely you will need a large table that can accommodate up to fifteen people.

Important calculations:

• The working segment for one person should be 60 cm. This figure is multiplied by the number of persons. The resulting digit will be the perimeter of the future table.
• How exactly the table will be set: in the middle of the kitchen, near the wall. In the first version, the table will be able to accommodate a larger number of guests.
• Will the table have drawers or other accessories.

It is necessary to determine the size and location. The optimal width of the table is considered to be 80-110 cm. If a narrower table is planned, then you will have difficulty serving. In the case of the selection of an oval shape of the table, it is necessary to calculate the circumference length. To do this, multiply the square of the radius to the number Pi (3.14).

Round or oval kitchen tables are mandatory only in the center of the kitchen.

• Do not install the table near the stove.
• You can not put the table under the air conditioner.

It is equally important to determine the table shape. The surface geometry can dramatically change the view of the entire space. It depends on the form directly, whether it will be convenient to take food or not. The rectangular shape with straight corners is most in demand. Such countertops are excellent for square or rectangular kitchens. At the same time, it can be positioned near the wall or in the center of the room.

Tables of oval shape are very popular. There are several reasonable reasons:

1. Oval table has an attractive appearance.
2. There is no need to get angles. This is especially convenient when there are small children in the house.
3. Oval table is better suited for a solemn meal.

There are a large number of advantages in favor of an oval kitchen table. But with the presence of a large family, it is inferior to rectangular shape. There are round forms, but with this option it will be inconvenient to take those or other dishes. As for oval countertops, the perfect diameter is 140 cm.

So, when the table is selected, repel, mainly from your own taste. Moreover, remember that for a kitchen of 8 m 2 and the less oval table will be impractical, as many free space will require.

Preparing drawings and tools

If you are determined with the size and shape of the kitchen table, then you can begin to the next step - drawing up the drawing. It should be displayed the necessary sizes of the surface, legs and other elements. You should consider the method of fastening of certain nodes. Consider, for example, a kitchen table that will have the following dimensions: 120 × 60 × 75.

Although such a table will be small, on its example, you can easily understand the principle of manufacturing such furniture. In your drawing, you can change the size of the table according to your needs.

You will need:

1. Countertop 1.2 × 0.6 m - 1 piece.
2. Cross jumpers 40 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
3. Longitudinal jumpers 100 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
4. Streets for a table with a height of 70 cm - 4 pieces.

To build a worktop, you need to prepare the boards of the appropriate size. Before starting work, you will need to think through the method of fastening important nodes.

First of all, you will need to collect all the necessary tools and materials:

• plane,
• hacksaw
• electric jigsaw,
• screwdriver
• emery paper
• line or roulette,
• corolnic
• pencil,
• disk saw
• milling machine
• file,
• clamps
• painting brush
• carbon black
• polyurethane varnish: matte or glossy,
• solvent.

When everything is ready, you can proceed to work.

Assembly Guide: Countertop Requirements

As for the countertop, it is important to determine here, it will be sliding or not. For example, in the assembled form, the table can be used to prepare food, and in sliding condition as a means for eating.

The tabletop should not absorb smells and fat. Consider and practical.

A good countertop should not absorb moisture, withstand strong blows. The surface of the table should not be afraid of steam, condensate and high temperature. All these requirements correspond to a table top, made of natural and artificial stone or covered with ceramic tiles. But it should be noted that such a table will look only in the modern style interior.

One of the most common types of countertops is chipboard, laminated film or plastic covered with plastic. For the price of DSP plates available to many. Moreover, with such a material it is easiest to work. Some may deny that the countertop from DSP is practical. This is partly true, but with its proper processing it will last not one year. Here are some recommendations and tips in working with a worktop of the chipboard:

• Film or plastic should be rounded the ends of the chipboard.
• Each rounded end of 90 ° is treated with silicone.
• However, in this position, the end is vulnerable to moisture ingress, so it is better to complete the end to 180 °.

You should be objective and mention about the disadvantages of such a countertop. If the chipboard wakes up, it will not be possible to fix this problem. As a result, you will have to make a new table or at least a worktop. But, on the other hand, such a surface is resistant to aggressive detergents and mechanical impacts.

Of course, if we talk about the perfect and environmentally friendly version of the most ideal and environmentally friendly version, then there is a tree in the first place. But in care, such a surface is more capricious. You can not allow the penetration of moisture into the tree, allow scratches and other damage. Inside them can be shared and multiplying microbes that adversely affect the mechanical strength of wood. Therefore, from time to time, the table tops from the tree must be varnished, clean, open the wax layer.

Requirements for legs

Depending on the shape and size of the table, the number of legs will fluctuate. For example, if you make a table from the plane of the LDSP, then there will be 4 legs that are attached at the corners of the table top. If you make strong wooden legs, then such a design will be durable and strong.

The legs can be made personally. To do this, you can purchase a ready-made sketch. The complexity of this work will fully depend on the shape of the legs. If you think that you do not die, then buy ready-made metal legs or choose wooden carved. Everything will depend on your financial opportunities.

The table can be on one leg. As mentioned above, it will depend directly from the weight, form and configuration of the countertops and the table as a whole.

A table having one massive leg, the side looks spectacular and beautiful. For its installation, a high-quality cruciform strapping is performed.

Two massive legs are located at a certain distance from each other. In most cases, a table having two legs is rectangular or oval. The advantage of such structures is that none of the legs sitting will not interfere. As for the design of such legs, they expand at the bottom to increase the support area. Between themselves, they are connected by a jumper board.

But the usual tables on the four legs are simple in design and do not need accurate and complex calculations. Such a table is stable and durable. Here the most important thing is to correctly pick up the size of the legs and mounted them at the right distance. At the same time, the tables on the four legs can be the most different in shape: oval, round, square, rectangular.

So, regardless of the number of selected legs in your design, the most important thing is always their aesthetics. The aesthetic appeal of the feet of the table is more important than the beauty of the table top. After all, the tabletop is always covered with a tablecloth or a loaf, and the legs are always visible.

Construct folding table

One of the simple forms of the kitchen table is rectangular. This design consists of four legs and six sidewalls box. The table top and the sidewalls can be made of 18 mm chipboard, and the legs of a 40 × 40 mm bar. To begin with, it is necessary to make tsargi from plywood, 2 cm thick (the feet of the table will be attached), as well as two horizontal strips. It is for them that the removable part of the table will be placed. In our case, for the manufacture, you will need to purchase the following material:

• Self-tapping screws 4 × 16.
• Saws 4 × 50.
• Corners of furniture 30 × 30.
• Laminated edges under the color of the LDSP.
• Wooden pastes of 8 × 40.

To the table, you can use standard guides. They provide smooth movement of the countertop. So, it is pre-made all the necessary details of the following dimensions:

• Leg 710 mm.
• Two non-removable parts 450 × 700 mm.
• Removable part 400 × 700 mm.
• For the box of a non-removable part four sidewalls 420 × 120 mm.
• For a box for non-removable parts, two end 600 × 120 mm.
• From plywood two side tsargi 830 × 120 mm.
• From plywood two end tsargi 498 × 120 mm.
• For the placement of the removable tabletop two strips 498 × 120 mm.

With such workpieces you have a sliding table size:

1. In a pumped view of 1300 × 700 mm.
2. In the collected form 900 × 700 mm.

Remove all billets best on special equipment. It is important to accurately withstand all sizes. All blanks from plywood and wood should be carefully cleaned and covered with varnish in two layers.

So, step by step instructions:

1. First of all, the side and longitudinal tsargs are fixed from the outside of the legs flush with the ends. After, using 4 × 50 mm self-samples from the outside and with an inner 4 × 16 mm, corners are attached. To the longitudinal kings, the corners are attached through horizontal strips.
2. Further, a wide guide is fixed on the inside of the lateral tsargi.
3. Under the waders you will need to drill two holes on the inner ends. They are attached to the collapsible connection, that is, one half will be free, and the second is attached to glue. From the driver to the edge of the countertop, the distance should be equal, but not exceed 10 cm.
4. Two shots are mounted on a removable tabletop. For this, two holes are drilled on the reverse side.
5. At the next stage, it's time to collect P-shaped parts of the box from LDSP. In this case, the end elements 600 × 120 should be located between the sides of 420 × 120 mm.
6. Now fasten the narrow guides. This is necessary in order for the chipboard to move on average by 2 mm above the plywood collet.
7. After, the guides are snapped and checked for moving along the tsargi.
8. With the help of the corners and screws of 4 × 16 mm, attach a non-removable part of the table top. Both parts must be perfectly coincided. Therefore, just before fixing them, slide both parts and check their coincidence. After that, carefully slip the kings and secure the countertops.
9. On the shelf inside the table, there are a removable part of the countertop.

Folding table - original solution for small cuisine!

If your kitchen has miniature sizes, then choose the appropriate shape of the kitchen table is not easy. However, there is always a way out. For example, you can build a homemade folding table. In the folded state, it will perform the role of a decorative frame, and in the unfolded - a full-fledged table for lunch. Although in each individual case the size of such a table will be different, we will take our sizes as a basis. This will allow you to visually imagine how your drawing will look like.

For work is necessary:

• mDF bottle 180 mm thick - 5 pieces,
• 150 × 90 cm,
• 130 × 10 cm - 2 pieces,
• 90 × 20 cm,
• 70 × 20 cm,
• holdfast,
• carbon black
• acrylic putty,
• electric drill,
• tree drill 3 mm and for metal 8-10 mm,
• sandpaper,
• acrylic paint for wood,
• roller
• painting adhesive tape
• screws 3.5 × 30 and 3.5 × 16 mm,
• loop
• screwdriver,
• two furniture spinages.

The whole process of work does not take you a lot of time, if you precisely follow the step-by-step instruction below.

1. Based on the material set, the table will be manufactured from MDF. Pre-draw drawings.
2. The first thing is constructed frame. To do this, the four elements are attached to the largest board from the bottom, with the help of joiner's vice. After every 250 mm, the holes drill the Ø3 mm drill, a depth of 3 cm.
3. After, the metal drill Ø8-10 mm drills a hole to a depth of 3 mm. In this way, you can deepen the hats of swirling screws.
4. Further on the lower surface of the four frame elements is applied joinery, and after, each element is applied to its place. Each of them needs to be good for joiner's visits.
5. Fastening the frame on the glue is not enough, so additionally should be fixed on the screws.
6. At the same time, disguise the caps from the screws so that they do not spoil the common type. For this you will use acrylic putty.
7. When the putty dried, you can get excavated by the sandpaper the surface of the decorative frame.
8. Countertops ends should be punctured by painting ribbon.
9. The surface of the frame is filled with acrylic paint using a roller, and the corners and edges are squeezed with a tassel.
10. Through the short edge of the table top, screw the loop. From the edge should be at least 150 mm. On the wall, make a hole and drill under a dowel. Thus, the loops will be screwed to the wall.
11. When the table is in a vertical position, then on top it will hold on spinages. They should be consolidated so that they do not get into the eyes, for example, on the edges of wall shelves.

POSTOFORMING TABILITE TABLE IN 5 STAGES

Such a table can be performed in the shortest time. To do this, you will need to pre-collect all the necessary material and the tool. You will need:

• pencil,
• postforming countertop,
• electrolovik,
• lobzika,
• sander,
• kant
• mill
• silicone sealant,
• rubber kiyanka
• sharp knife
• clamps
• metal legs with holder,
• hex key.

All work can be performed in 5 consecutive steps.

Stage 1.

On the front side of the table, apply the markup with a pencil. Marking will fit your drawing. Each rounding is performed by a radius of at least 60 mm. This will prevent the color of the color of Kant in sharp bending places.

Stage 2.

Now you need to give the appropriate tabletop. To do this, use the electric lobby. When cut, it is recommended to leave a small ground in 2-3 mm. Pay attention to the direction of the fuel carrier. It must have a reversing direction of teeth. This will avoid chipping on plastic coverage. Although in part they can be hidden by Crate. In order to accurately bring the size and outlines of the table top, on the ends it is necessary to work the grinding machine of the ribbon type.

Stage 3.

At the third stage it's time to milling the groove. Milling is always running strictly centered. And this is even no matter whether Kant will be exactly the coincidence with the counter table top or it will be great. If you do not have cutters with accurate sizes of Kant's groove, then you can walk several times with a cutter having a smaller height of teeth.

Stage 4.

When the groove is ready, you can proceed to Kant's packing. To do this, the end is covered with silicone sealant. This will prevent water penetration. The sealant is applied to the top side of Kant. Kant himself is stuffed with rubber Cyans. The junction should be formed in the most invisible place. When the package is completed, it is important to accurately docking the Kant. There is no need to do without a sharp knife. After that, you will need to remove excess sealant throughout the perimeter of the table top, which was formed when Kant's drive.

When attaching countertops applying clamps, it is important to use special gaskets. They are installed on the protruding edges of Cant and prevent damage.

Stage 5.

At the final stage, legs are fixed. To do this, you should consolidate cast holders on the bottom side of the table top. So that they were at the same distance, make the markup of the pencil. From the edge of the leg should be up to 10 cm at a distance. This holder is fixed with a 2.5 cm with a secret head. Now it remains to make the last barcode: fix the legs in the holder with a hexagon key. Dining table for kitchen ready!

As you can see a post-table table top, it is very simple and, most importantly, is available for homemade manufacturing at home. To do this, you must have basic carpentry tools. But here you should remember the dangers. With careless circulation, there is a risk to break the holder, which is made of fragile material. But if you carefully exploit such a table, it will last for many years.

Selection only for you

We reviewed with you several options, how to make a kitchen table. There are other technologies for its manufacture. In most cases, everything will depend only on your financial capabilities and smelts.

Video

This video shows an example of the manufacture of a rectangular kitchen table with rounded corners. Balaasins skillfully used as legs:

If you dream nice to spend time on your household plot, then you just need a large table, followed by the company of your friends and loved ones. And you can make it you can do it, spending quite a bit of time. In some cases, you may need an assistant, sometimes an extra pair of hands does not hurt.

This article is a detailed step-by-step instruction managing a wooden table for giving.

So that you have a choice, we offer you at once four options for projects of the country table - two conventional picnic tables, a table with benches, which are a single structural integer, and finally a round table. You must think in advance all the details and select the type and size of the table, which would satisfy your needs and corresponded to the style of the design of your household plot.

Picnic folding tables - mobility above all

Folding tables are very convenient, and most importantly, it is practical and simple. They do not occupy a lot of space. At any moment, such a table can gently fit in folded form in the garage, and with the case again, move to the street. Mobility of furniture is especially valued in small areas.

How to make a garden wooden table with your own hands

The cottage is the place where the master, joiner, carpenter, gardener, in general, wake up in man. Buy furniture for the country site - the case is simple, but not all can make a wooden table for giving with your own hands. You should immediately be prepared for doing a garden table with your own hands you will be several days. But the following tips will help independently make a solid table.

Today we will design a rather simple country table with your own hands in our olive style. Such tables are not only perfectly looking, but also have a fairly reliable design. It is worth paying attention to the boards. They are obliged to be even, as the appearance of our country table will directly depend on it.

Designing a table for cottages, it is necessary to prepare lumber in three dimensions:

• Bumping frame - section 38 x 90 mm.
• Countertop - section 38 x 140 mm.
• Supporting planks - section 19 x 64 mm.

1. Drawing

Before starting work, the most important found on the Internet, either independently make the drawings of the table for giving with your own hands. The exact schematic designation will allow you to choose lumber to be the most suitable in cross section to the dimensions specified in the scheme. It does not matter if the dimensions do not quite coincide with each other, because you can always make an adjustment with the help of electruruck.

1. Preparation of material

Solving how to make a garden wooden table, go to the question responsibly, as the life of furniture will depend on this:

• buying blanks. Professionals are advised to purchase a lumber from coniferous trees, which was pre-dried well. Its main advantages are:
  • price;
  • simplicity and ease of handling manually;
  • beautiful structure;
• glue for furniture;
• 4 x 65 mm screws;
• 3 mm drill;
• drill;
• roulette, pencil, sprinking for grinding.

1. Next steps

We will need:

• two top transverse beams, sizes of 38 x 90 x 978 mm;
• four legs for the country table with their own hands, measuring 38 x 90 x 695 mm;
• two tents - 38 x 90 x 921 mm;
• one longitudinal bottom and one upper beam - 38 x 90 x 1575 mm and 38 x 90 x 1473 mm, respectively;
• two pieces of diagonals of 38 x 90 x 772 mm;
• billets for countertops - seven pieces, measuring 38 x 90 x 2337 mm;
• six supporting slats - 19 x 64 x 432 mm.

Tip: start to work on a flat surface. It is extremely necessary to observe the angles of docking parts. The billets, which in the future become legs of our country table, follows from both sides of the corner at 10 °. Sections should be parallel. But the billets are the guilts that are similar to the same angle, one should cut one towards another.

Stage 2. The legs of our country table should be attached to the transverse beams and bore all this design with screws. For each connection two shurupika.

Diagonally screw the tutor to the leg from the inside, in the same way bonding the structure with two screws.

The bottom beam needs to be combined with both the guards. As mentioned above, with the help of screws.

Next, in the upper longitudinal and transverse beams, the holes are first made under the fastening product, called the sucker, after which it is again diagonally connect the existing screws of our cottage wooden table.

Tip: Connecting all items, use adhesive for additional strength. Remove excess immediately.

Squeeze the disclosures on the screws.

Tip: Preparations intended for sieves, pre-trim at an angle of 45 degrees

Billets for tabletop tables with their own hands Fresh screws to transverse beams.

How to make a rectangular table for giving

After developing a work plan and approval of the drawings of the table for the cottage, buy all the materials necessary for this project. Choose wood designed to use outdoors - pine, cedar, mahogany or extruded wood. When buying, check each board: they must be completely even without any visible defects. Do not save on the quality of sawn timber, because your design has to withstand all weather adversity.

There are several important points that you must take into account if you want the result to match the high professional level. No need to forget about the accuracy of measurement and use of a professional tool when drinking boards and bars and drilling holes. To improve the reliability of the design, you can additionally use waterproof adhesive for fastening parts. Crow out open edges using a mill or emery paper.

Attention! The dimensions are translated from an inch system and may not be coincided with the metric measurement system. Choose as close to the size of lumber. Or just customize yourself.

Tools required for project implementation:

• hacksaw, jigsaw;
• mill;
• drill and drill;
• clear cord, roulette, alcohol, pencil;
• protective glasses and gloves.

Time:

• From one day to a week, depending on the chosen project. If your disposal has power tools, you can finish the work even faster - in just a few hours.

Advice:

• Smooth the edges of wooden bars and boards will help the mill.
• Before screwing off screws and screws, drill the guide holes in the wooden elements.
• The heads of the screwed screws should not perform above the wooden surface, and for this, the inlet parts of the holes must be annoyed.
• Do not use cracked and deformed lumber.
• Do not make excessively high effort when screwing the screws, otherwise wood can crack.

Picnic table do it yourself. Step-by-step instruction

Materials:

• A - legs: bars 5 × 10 cm long 106 cm long (2 pcs.), 43 cm long (2 pcs.) And 56 cm long (2 pcs.);
• B - frame: Bruks of 5 × 10 cm long 87 cm (2 pcs.);
• C - Countertop: 5 × 15 cm boards 180 cm long (6 pcs.);
• D - base-top base: 5 × 15 cm boards with a length of 87 cm (2 pcs.), Bruks of 5 × 10 cm 62 cm long (2 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is the manufacture of legs of the table. Screw the bars of the required sizes. To speed up the process, you can use the circular saw. Combine the edges of the bars and the line dug out the emery paper.

Connect the bars so that it turns out a X-shaped design, and secure them with 60 mm self-stakes, without forgetting to pre-drill the guide holes. Jump places to smear glue. Make sure that there are no cracks and gaps.

Make each pair of legs with horizontal bar, using 60 mm screws for this purpose. Ends of bars cut, as shown in the picture.

Put the boards designed for the manufacture of table tops, on a flat surface. We advise you to put a piece of 6 mm plywood between them, it will make it possible to form uniform gaps. Place the tabletops collected the sidewalls of the table and secure them by screwing them at an angle of 90 mm. Before fixing, make sure the perpendicularity of the legs and the countertops using the alcohol level for this.

Place a 5 × 15 cm of boards on the bottom side of the table top and fix them with 60 mm screws.

Screw the ends of the bars, which will perform the function of reinforcing the design of the backups, at an angle of 45º. Install the backups in their place and fix with the help of 90 mm screws screwed at an angle.

And finally, the last but no less important thing is: check if there are no screws of self-tapping screws over a wooden surface, and all the gaps and holes fill in a putty on the wood.

Tip: To protect the wooden surfaces from the destructive impact of atmospheric moisture, cover them with several layers of paint for outdoor use or simulation.

Table with benches. Instructions with drawings

Materials:

• A - legs: Bars 5 × 10 cm long 95 cm (4 pcs.);
• B - crossbars: bars 5 × 10 cm long 160 cm long (2 pcs.);
• C - Mounting Countertops: Bars 5 × 10 cm Length 75 cm (5 pcs.);
• D - inclined backups: Bars 5 × 10 cm long 84 cm (2 pcs.);
• E - Countertop: 5 × 10 cm boards Length 180 cm (14 pcs.).

Start work stands with the manufacture of legs. Since this table feet will be located obliquely, the ends of the bars with a length of 100 cm should be cut off at an angle of 30º. Connect the elements of 90 mm bolts.

Make sure the surface on which you work is quite smooth. The mounted table sidewings should be identical, only in this case can be hoped for a great end result.

When the sidewalls of the table will be ready, you can start making a wooden countertop. We recommend that you put it on the ground (floor), and then fixing the legs with the help of screws.

Tip: Do not forget to make sure the vertical of the side walls of the table with an alcohol level, otherwise the final result of your work is hardly satisfied.

Rigidly fix the entire design using inclined backups. Their ends should be cut at an angle of 26º.

Now it remains only to build benches. Displays the boards of the desired size, place them on both sides of the table and, after drilling several guide holes at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edges, fasten with the help of screws.

Tip: In order for the seating boards to be distributed evenly, placing the carnations between them or pieces of plywood between them. Thanks to this little trick, all the gaps will be the same.

At the end of the work, pay attention to small but very important strokes. Fill the wood putty all the gaps and holes. After drying the putty, polish the wooden surfaces of the sandy paper of medium grain.

Tip: Do not forget to apply several layers of paint or veil to protect the wooden surfaces from exposure to water and sunlight.

Round table. We do in the country on your own

Materials:

• A - base: 5 × 10 cm bar 102.5 cm long (1 pcs.) And 47 cm long (2 pcs.), Bruks 2.5 × 10 cm. 9 cm long (4 pcs.);
• B - Racks: Bars 10 × 10 cm Length 60 cm (4 pcs.);
• C - base-table base: Bruks of 5 × 10 cm long 82.5 cm long (1 pc.) And 52.5 cm long (2 pcs.), Bruks 2.5 × 10 cm Length 47.5 cm (4 pcs.) And 60 cm long (2 pcs.) ;
• D - Countertop: 2.5 × 15 cm boards Long 195 cm (9 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is to create the base of the table. To articate the components of its elements, use waterproof glue and screws. Make sure the angles formed by the brushes connected, direct. To protect the collected base of the table from rotting under the influence of rainwater, place it on small stands from cropping 2.5 × 10 cm of the board.

Now you need to attach to the base four racks made from squares of square cross section. Before fixing, make sure that they are vertical using alcohol. The height of the legs may differ from the proposed by us, in this case you should, first of all, focus on your own needs.

The most difficult stage of the project is the manufacture of table tops. Place boards on a flat surface and check the center of the square. Secure at this point one end of 60 cm rail. Rotating the second end of the rail, mark the outline of the circle. Lobzik with a sharp blade will allow you to make a circular cut at a high professional level.

After cutting the boards of the future countertops, we recommend that you make them with a waterproof glue and additionally fix with several clamps. Attach the bars serving the base table top, as shown in the figure (yellow elements must be made of 5 × 10 cm of bars, green - from 2.5 × 10 cm of bars).

Tip: For attaching bars to the table top, use waterproof glue and galvanized screws (30 mm screws for mounting 2.5 × 10 cm of bars and 50 mm for fastening 5 × 10 cm of bars).

After the glue dries, you must attach the legs to the base with a feet with 90 mm of self-tapping screws, drill pre-guide holes. Control by alcohol level perpendicularity of legs and countertops.

In order for the result of your work to fit a high professional level, make sure that the hats of the screws are recessed deep enough. Look all the gaps and holes with a putty on a tree, after drying it to seet the surface with sandpaper.

Tip: Apply a few layers of paint for outdoor work or verses to protect the table from destruction under the influence of moisture. So that the bases of the base also turned out to be intact water, place the table on the concrete surface and their hermetically inlate them.

Now you know how to make a picnic table yourself. It is only worth putting a little effort, which will subsequently rewarded with enthusiastic exclamations of friends and pleasant summer evenings, held a family circle behind a large table.