How to multiply a violet sheet at home is a step-by-step instruction. How to care for violets so that they bloom abundantly? How to choose a leaf suitable for breeding

At first glance, the violet seems to be a completely unpretentious plant. It is easy to transplant this flower, and it blooms with proper care, almost 10 months a year, with the exception of a hot summer period. But still, that the flower justifies your expectations, follow our advice on the choice of placement placing, pots for the plant.

Step 1 Place for violets.

Take care that the plant does not stood in the shade, it loves light. But consider the fact that violets do not tolerate the burning sunlight. Therefore, in hot summer days it is better to enable windows. Some experts argue that the pots are desirable to put in the northern part of their housing. Take into account these conditions to ensure maximum colors comfort.

Step 2. Size pot.

The purple flower will grow even in a rather small container with a small amount of land. But that the plant has a beautiful view, as well as large well-groomed leaves and large flowers, the size of the color pot must be 10-15 cm in diameter and reach a height of about 10 cm. In huge pots, it is not necessary to plant this flower, it will open and lose a beautiful neat view. In addition, the right size pot can help ensure a decent flower care of the violet.

Step 3. Land for violets.

Special land mixes for SENPOLIY are sold in stores. Also, the correct mixture can be made independently. To do this, pour the pot to the middle of the clay, put a small shell of charcoal, and the remaining place fill in the usual dry ground. It is important to remember that the earth should be well to skip moisture and air, not to stir, otherwise the plant will start refusing.

Step 4. Fertilizers.

Special fertilizers are sold for flowering plants in specialized stores. Fertilizing this plant is recommended once within two weeks when the violet is actively blooming, and once every four weeks when the plant is at rest. You can add special fertilizers directly to a bowl with warm water, where they lower the pot for the lower irrigation of violets.

How to care for violets, so that the plant has ultra of moisture and continue to grow? Take care of proper watering and, if necessary, about a high-quality transplant.

Step 5. Watering.

Do not get carried away by frequent and intense violets, since a large amount of moisture is contraindicated. Ideally, if you water the violet below, that is, to put the pot into the container with warm water. When the land in the pot becomes uniformly wet, it will mean that the violet absorbed so much water as it is necessary. Such a method of watering will prevent the water from entering the leaves and flowers, and, in addition, will protect the plant from rotting.

Step 6. Transplanting violets.

Change of violets, as well as most room plants, must be carried out approximately once a year. Just change the earth and spend drainage. You can transplant the violet in the same pot in which it grew earlier, if the plant was comfortable in it. Periodically, you need to wash off the leaves of violets dust. It is necessary to do this very carefully, for example, a weak shower with warm water. Never allow that straight sun rays fall on the wet plant, because in this case, spots will appear on its leaves, or it will simply "burnit".

Formation of bush and reproduction

.Correctly cut and form a viper bush.

How to care for violets to provide them with a beautiful and compact look? Palki socket must have three or four rows of leaves. Leaves located at the bottom sometimes look like not enough "cheerful", so they need to turn them. But be careful, since in the sneakers of the leaves there are kidneys that only originate.

The barrel of plants over time becomes longer, and the violet loses its original appearance. Therefore, it needs to deepen into the ground. Either you can trim the "Column" to the desired size, put the plant into the water container and wait until the roots grow. Then it should be re-put a plant in the ground. Remove dry, yellowed or sluggish leaves. In order for the flower from all sides to grow uniformly, periodically change the place of the pot or turn it towards the light.

. Studio of violets.

To multiply them is very easy. To do this, tear off a healthy leaf and put it in the ground. Perhaps a long time the plant will not give any signs of life. The transplanted sheet may even dry out. However, do not worry, since the root process occurs underground, at the bottom of the leaflet, its root. There is another simple way of reproduction - hold the leaf in the jar with water until the roots appear, and then transplanted it into the prepared land. Both methods will almost certainly bring you "offspring."

How to care for violets in winter

Video about how to care for violet so that she bloom 10 months a year

In different pores of the year, the violet, since most of the room plants, requires a different approach. If your house is not warm enough in winter, it is better to remove the flower from the windowsill. You can also resort to another embodiment and create a "greenhouse effect", covering it with a can. This method is not suitable for everyone if the plant is not small damage.

Flowers of violets, the care for winter is not carried out proper, suffer from lack of moisture in the air. Therefore, it is important that water is constantly located near the plant. Since the light day is significantly reduced, the plant may not be enough light. To avoid this problem, you can use artificial lighting, such as luminescent lamps that need to be included above the flower a few hours a day.

Help to understand various information how to care for violets can video allowance. Here are assembled important facts and small tips for fans of a wondrous flower. After applying recommendations showing the care of violets on video, these wonderful plants will delight you with their beauty, and create an excellent atmosphere in your home.

Hello, dear members of the forum!

In connection with technical problems on the site, many articles from all blogs disappeared. I bring to your attention one of the restored articles of my blog on a very relevant topic.

So, start!

I recently got this letter:

Hello, dear Olga Aleksandrovna! I was fascinated by violets not so long ago, one and a half years ago. I often go to your site, I recognize a lot of new and interesting. But, unfortunately, my knowledge is not always enough. Recently received its first order of cuttings of varietal violets. I want to safely bring them to flowering. And in connection with this, I have such a question for you:

How to distinguish the "correct" socket from the outlet with scored leaves? (Can I see it clear somewhere? Surely, this topic rose more than once?) What affects the proper formation of the socket? And how to do with the already formed "incorrect" socket?

Thanks in advance for the answer. Irina Plekhanova.

I answer you, Irina.

Each lover of violets is sick for his "kids." A big role in the growth of violets plays the soil. It should be loose, hygroscopic, but do not delay the water. Additives in it can be done a lot, I will not stop at this. In each region of accommodation collector, the soils of different brands are sold, so the choice is large.

Here, the soil is compiled with the use of moss-sfagnum:

If the soil is constantly "filled" (watering frequent and abundant), then in childhood an improper socket is formed - the leaves are twisted, the middle is "sealed", a brown raid is possible on the youngest leaves, the cuttings are hardly straightened for growth. Here it is necessary to replace the soil, add more perlite or anthemculite to it and cut irrigation. The photo below shows that the soil is slightly filled, there is a light red color on the moss. But this is only the initial stage, watering should be less than water.

In the photo, it is clearly clear that the center is scored - it is already soaked soil, you need a transplant to a new soil and a larger pot size (archive, photo 2008):

Proper socket - flat, leaves grow freely:

If the leaves grow on a very long stem, then pay attention to the illumination in this place. In this case, there is not enough light.

If the middle is very dense, then in this case it may be a cross - surplus. You need to change the place on the windowsill or rack.

In the next photo there is a light pass - the leaves hug a socket. But the plant feels well, it blooms abundantly, so forgive him this little disadvantage:

And there are varieties of violets that grow with cuttings "hands up". Sometimes these are the features of the variety, but most often it is a lack of lighting. In this case, you need to look for a place where the outlet will be more comfortable. You will have to rearrange it for a new place once to find the best. In my collection, this is the grade Jan-Metelitsa:

Diseases of violets also affect the growth of the middle of the socket, but in this case you will immediately see damage to the sheet plate. I have no such photo.

With further growth on the formation of the socket plays the temperature. The higher it on the racks or the windowsill, the denser the middle of the outlet becomes. There are varieties that correctly form a socket only in a cool place. Such varieties include violets E.V. Korshunova. The varieties of her breeding stand on my rack on the lower shelf of 3 cm above the floor. Sorted EC-lace stars. Wonderful flat proper socket. But the center is scored, I needed a transplant in fresh soil:

Particular attention to the varieties of violets with curly leaves. At high temperatures, the middle of these sockets will grow as a kochan cabbage. Sometimes it is necessary to disassemble the middle of the outlet, as they will not be straightened. Better such varieties to put in the cooler place.

The photo below shows the signs of excessive irrigation, lack of nitrogen and reboot, and elevated temperatures. Buds with difficulty are chosen from under the leaves.

On the racks, and on the windowsides, too, in different places, the shelves of violets grow differently. On my photo below (2008) it is significant that in a darker place (along the edges of the rack) kids are pulled out. It is also seen that the walls of the kids grow faster than children around the edges of the shelves. From time to time I had to rotate the pallets, so that growth is compared.

All available flaws I showed on your photos of different years.

On the racks, the sockets grow smaller and more careful, there is a cross, but in smaller sizes than on the window. I have a few sockets on my window, rovnelyko grow. We also have blinds, but, in addition to them, we toned the glass, as we have the south side and the sun all day until the evening. Toning was only 10%, but it felt for flowers.

Watering, even in a strong heat, must be more often, but no more. The plant drinks a certain portion of water, just it evaporates in different ways due to elevated temperatures.

The most important thing in the soil is lightness and crumbs. I really like agrovesculite to add to the ground.

Fertilizer can be any, but only one fertilizer component cannot be applied, such as nitrogen. The plant will begin to grow hard, the leaves will be brittle, and the food will not be enough. Therefore, it is necessary to feed the comprehensive fertilizer, such as Kemio-suite. Now it was renamed, but the composition remained the same. It is necessary to water the fertilizer in very small doses, it is for "health amendments".

In the summer, the violets are badly blooming because of the heat. But in September-October you have a garden in the apartment.

With the participation of violets, a symmetrical outlet with a maximum number of leaves is estimated at exhibitions. If you do not take part in exhibitions, then the number of leaves on the outlet does not play roles. But here there may be another option - a frequent breakdown of the leaves causes faster to increase the new foliage of the violet and the trunk quickly becomes long. To remove the leaves at the violet need only the first children's and then the next old one. It is believed that the novel of violets after the transplantation into a normal pot to the deepest aging can grow up to 7 years. With you, she will not live such age, you often have to trim the top and rejoice.

Flowering depends on many factors. Sometimes, from excessive efforts of the hostess, the violet will proceed with elegant leaves, a huge outlet, but there will be no colors. Therefore, look for the optimal option, do not force the outlet always in the size of the starter.

On my photo from the archive - a Pedolis Socket prepared for the exhibition:

And before, and now many fans of violets appreciates frantic flowering with caps. And then there was beauty only from the leaves, and he stood in my shelves and burned because of the abnormality. In the end, I poured him and the pot was in the bucket. Now I sometimes remember this variety - unpretentious, the leaves were long and not older. Exhibition socket. The flowering "corona" - a wedge, but there were always few colors. Here is a story.

It is impossible to overflow violets. Let the simple water be watering than the overgrown. I already wrote above that it is impossible to put a rosette closely to each other, especially for the summer. From this, they are more often sick and vascular bacteriosis may, and begins due to increased ammonia content on the shelves (soft, brown and transparent cuttings).

Previously, pots on my shelves stood like this:

0cm; Line-Height: 14.7pt; Background: #eaeaec "\u003e Color: Black "\u003e then when the exhibitions started - like this:

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0cm; Line-Height: 14.7pt; Background: #eaeaec "\u003e And now they cost a dense pallet to the pallet, but 1 time in 4-5 months I break all the leaves unnecessary on sockets, in the summer in 3 months. It is in order to better be ventilation.

Wires go to each shelf to each lamp, and the lamps are attached to the bars. On this, large, rack, 2 lamps over each shelf. Above the upper shelf, the lamps are attached to the ceiling too on a bar. Since this rack was built a long time ago, at first it was dual industrial lamps (on the recommendation of Makuni). Maybe remember, there were such things in the workshops. But they were with chokes, which just terribly buuddered and very much. Therefore, we replaced them with poor lamps. Switches also remained from throttle lamps. Now we put a timer on each rack, but the switches did not take it, they do not interfere. The wires are also attached to the brushes at the wall, the husband himself made the wiring, very carefully, so the wires are not visible.

Length of lamps 132 cm, Lumincent lamps 36 W. Lamps bought different colors - yellow and blue. Luminaires used to be German, now Chinese. The system is the same in time. Luminaires are sold already assembly, it remains only to connect them to the timer and the network. I did not like the lamps of yellow - there is little light and go to the gray-green room.

By time, the timer is on 12 hours without a break. Previously did every hour a break for 15 minutes. The lamps were faced very often, so they put the timers just for 12 hours.

For mines width shelves 36 cm, the lamps are the same, above the shelves 1 lamp. Distance between shelves 30 and 35 cm.

The light turns on almost all year round with everyone equally. The exception is the summer heat. In this case, we turn off electricity for 2-3 hours earlier. In winter, with heavy dryness, turn on the air humidifier. We have a meter of air humidity, so everything is under control.

Water through pallets faster. Over time, you will calculate such a number of water into one outlet that it will completely drink from the pallet with a socket and the rest you do not have to merge.

I do not have drainage. Previously, in the first years of the collection, used clamzit - the sockets often died due to the convergence, since the ceramzite absorbed a lot of water into himself and the pot was obtained at the bottom.

Then used finely chopped foam. It was different here. If you put a pot on the bottom a little more than 1 cm foam, then when watering the soil from above, the water first goes into the pallet, and the foam does not pass it back. Socket again suffers. Therefore, the cultivation of violets without drainage is allowed.

Dear members of the forum! This article used answers to your questions in the former comments. I will be glad to your new questions.

0cm; Line-Height: 14.7pt; Background: #eaeaec "\u003e color: black"\u003e

Step 1Place for violets.

Step 2.Size pot.

Step 3.Land for violets.

Step 4.Fertilizers.

How to care for violets, so that the plant has ultra of moisture and continue to grow? Take care of proper watering and, if necessary, about a high-quality transplant.

Step 5.Watering.

Step 6.Transplanting violets.

Change of violets, as well as most room plants, must be carried out approximately once a year. Just change the earth and spend drainage. You can at the same pot in which she grew earlier, if the plant was comfortable in it. Periodically, you need to wash off the leaves of violets dust. It is necessary to do this very carefully, for example, a weak shower with warm water. Never allow that straight sun rays fall on the wet plant, because in this case, spots will appear on its leaves, or it will simply "burnit".

Formation of bush and reproduction

Correctly cut and form a viper bush.

How to care for violets in winter

Uzambar violet.

The Gesneriaceae family is Hesnery.

Saintpaulia Hybrida - Senpolia hybrid.

African Violet Saintpaulia Hybrid.

Formation of a beautiful Satpolia socket

Formation of a beautiful socket for flowering.

It is necessary to closely monitor, in which direction the trunk is growing. When landing, it is sometimes possible to plant the violet is not perfectly up smoothly, after time it will be found. Then you need to carefully get from the pot of the com, holding a violet for the trunk under the leaves, lose the bottom, so that it becomes smooth in the plane we need, place at the right corner in the pot and shove the substrate in the empty side.

It often happens that the central leaves are resting in the previous ones and almost humble for them. It is necessary to accurately straighten them from there so that the deformations of young leaves do not happen. This is a consequence of the change in the light flux. Outdoor leaves could grow with smaller light and the petioles grew at a higher corner, and the central grow already flat And therefore climb under the outer. (Put the violet immediately on the full light and some problems at all simply will not arise).

Removal of flowerons when forming a socket necessarily. The goal that the violet puts in its development is to build up the corresponding crown volume and root mass volume. If Krone is big, the violet is forced to quickly grow the roots to feed it. If there are many roots, but there are few leaves, you need to build leaves.

Sometimes this process goes in the direction of the growing of new growth points (stepsins). As soon as the crown balance and roots have been achieved, the violet "calms down" and lays the flower. The growth of leaves stops or slows down very much. The violet switches to flowering mode.

Healthy and properly grown sensipolia usually drives out the flowerca sequentially as it grows in the three-or-four top tiers of the socket. It is necessary to know that the flowers is growing from the top sinus only once, More bloomon in this place will not be. Therefore, it is not necessary to expect from the violet of continuous flowering with lush bouquets. So the violet is blooming only in the spring, after the winter period of growth and relaxation from flowering. It follows that beauty of Satpolia blossom depends on the status of the socket.

In the sinus of each sheet there is a stubby meristem. Depending on the need, it forms or a growth point, or blooming. Our goal is to grow a single crown without steps and so far without coloring. The removal of steppers forces the violence to increase new leaves only in the top, at the central growth point. The ideas about the correct crown with the violet with the violence. She needs a physiological volume of leaves, and we are a beautiful multi-tier socket that exceeds the needs and capabilities of the roots.

From the moment the physiological balance achieved, the violet will lay down the blooms, and leave the leaves to grow. But if we delete these bloomrs, she will have to lay new ones, and new it is possible only in the sinuses of new leaves! She raises the next tier. We again delete and again deprive her flowering opportunities. She is forced to grow the following. Such intervention continues until we satisfy the volume and beauty of the crown.

Hence the direct consequence. The roots of violets, clamped in a pot with an empty peat, cannot naturally provide nutrition to such a number of leaves, and if we do not feed the violet, she herself will never be proceeding excess leaf mass. Therefore, the long-time call "Do not feed" violets in terms of the physiology of development looks at least archaism in relation to large strong exhibition plants. When the recommendations were written on the cultivation of indoor violets, they did not mean those plants that are now grown for exhibitions.

Among other things, we must provide a socket space. The overlap of the part of the sheet plates with the leaves of neighboring violets leads to a decrease in the "power supply", which worsens the assimilation of nutrition from the roots. The violet is trying to substitute the light of the whole possible area of \u200b\u200bthe leaves and raises the leaves so that they turn out to be higher than the obstacles. Get the notorious "hands up".

If the light, in the opinion of violet, with an excess (we do not think so, by the way, we need a very flat smooth socket, and we light a violet in an adult), then it can lower the leaves below the horizontal plane. To form a flat symmetrical outlet, so that the leaves for the edge of the pot are not wrapped, and that the violet does not lie on the side, the collars or corsets are used.

The corset make a one-time plate on a diameter, which simply does not allow the leaves and hug a pot, and makes smooth leaves. You need to use a plate too with a loaf. If the plate is hoping before the plant shall form strong durable stiffs, supporting the effect of the plate will lead to their insufficient development and weakness. It may turn out that after removing the collar, skinny stiffs will simply be unable to keep the weight of the leaves. Therefore, it is possible to use a plate not before the full development of the tier of adults durable leaves. To do not break the leaves, the plate on the pot needs to be dressed when the violet is slightly dried, i.e. There are quite a bit sipped leaves, but only a little bit, the leaves then as if they are plastic and perfectly laid out and roll up, well, and then a little pour violet.

Some love, if this is the "hands up" grade, so that the sockets are the leaves down. To form the desired shape, they put on top of a rosette of something type of inverted large-mesh coland. In the center, cutout for flowers. The leaves under the severity of "colander" grow down what is required of them. Single sheets "Hands up" quickly and easily correct with the help of thick wire, sticking it into the ground by an arc, clasping a sheet of sheet. Just need to carefully grab her cuttings, not to overcertrine it.

If the grade is not "hands up", and the leaves rose simply from the wrong care, then it is fixed very quickly. Colored clips - they are covered with a shell and do not rust. Take the clip to get a bent almost in half a wire. The sharp ends stick into the ground, and the bend seat presses the desired sheet to the desired height to the ground.

It is better to do this during irrigation when the earth is already wet, and the leaves are still slightly sluggish. In this case, the sheet is more supportive, will not break. Over time, the leaf can be attracted to the ground stronger when it becomes accustomed to his new position. You can choose green paper clips so that they are not as noticeable.

The formation of a flawless outlet is to provide it with a full-fledged light stream and the duration of the light day, full of space for leafing, watering, regular well-thought-out fertilizer, removing steps to stimulate development in one barrel, and removal of flowers for provocating reinforced development of new and new leaves. If you want to reduce the size of your violet, then it can be transferred not to the top ten, namely, in the eight, after removing the extra, old roots and smooth the old soil.

If you have good external conditions for violets, you just need to give a violence to grow calmly and develop accordingly by its nature, without driving it in any special framework. If there is a favorable temperature and good lighting from above, then with conventional agricultural engineering (stable moisturizing and timely transplants) violet herself will grow beautiful and healthy. To help her there is no special need for it - except to limit flowering for the period of foliage extension.

After all, each violent age has its own tasks. And our requirements for each age must be adequate. The task of the baby is to form an active point of growth and increase thick healthy roots. The task of the starter is to show the right varieties in the first bloom and create a "platform" for the subsequent construction of the shape of the socket.

At the same time, the violet itself knows what she needs a "platform": large or small, it is predetermined genetically for each variety. It is known to know if this platform is free and spacious than dense and fed. Logosity and looseness of sockets in many varieties is an age property. Young violet looks loose because she just still has few leaves. With age, it goes by itself (naturally, under favorable conditions of content and debugged agricultural engineering).

Bad, if the violet grows with a dense and fed. Among the violers there are lovers to sink outlets for reasons of saving space. Press the violet, in particular the starter, is completely simple: a close pot plus a reinforced portion of lighting. We obtain shorter stiffs, respectively, the smaller diameter and the form is flop. An unnatural decrease in the young outlet leads to the fact that already in the next tier of the leaves, we see the excessively sealing middle with rigid twisted decisions of the leaves, which do not breathe each other to breathe or photosynthesize.

It is dangerous to plant a violet in a close pot if good intensive lighting is used. Personally, I am always for the intense light, but at the same time I am aware that the intensive light involves the intensive nutrition. The most important is the balance. Balance of light and nutrition is no less important than the balance of light and tempoctura. In the close pot to achieve stable and efficient nutrition during an acceptable period - the task of increased complexity.

Continued: The problem with the leaves is "hands up".

Rooming violet with fragile gentle flowers of a wide variety of shades, few people leave indifferent. If one flower appeared, then for sure in the apartment, their quantity will grow, given all the diversity of Saint Polya in nature. A frequent question of novice flowerflowers: "How to breed a room latch, without spending buying a full-fledged flower in a pot?". The answer you will find in this article.

Under what conditions violets multiply

If you can create certain conditions, it is possible to study SENPOLIA at any time. The violet is a sufficient capricious indoor plant that will not tolerate a negligence relationship.

Time

The best time to get new plants is spring and summer. At this time, a sunny day is long enough.

The flower itself, all winter at rest, begins to gradually revive and actively grow.

Light day for fast reproduction should be more than 12 hours. In winter, it is necessary to freeze daylight lamps or special phytolampa.

Humidity

The violets do not like dry air, especially during the breeding period. To maintain a suitable level, a potted sheet with a root sheet, a flowerpiece or seeds of this room plant, it is necessary to create a "greenhouse". The optimal humidity for breeding violets is 50-60%.

Temperature

Violets poorly tolerate temperature differences. The adult plants themselves can transfer the cold at 10 and heat at 35, but they develop well at 22-24. The optimal temperature for breeding violet is 24-27. Moreover, such a temperature should be on an ongoing basis: the violet does not like the temperatures.

The soil

The soil for the most favorable growth and breeding of violets should be a specific composition. It should be a weakness, breathable, loose.

Therefore, the soil taken in the garden is not suitable: it can be too dense.

For novice flower water, there is an option to choose a special soil in the store. The choice is big there, the main thing is to ask the competent seller to pick up suitable.

But flowerflowers with experience declare that the purchase of the earth can be very different from what is written on the package itself.

To be confident in quality, they make the soil mixture themselves. The composition of such a mixture includes components:

washed sand - 1 part;
weak peat - 3 parts;
humid sheet - 1 part;
green moss - 2 parts;
sFAGNUM (peat moss) - 1 part;
charcoal (or perlite, vermiculite) - ½ of part;
cherry land from the garden - 1 part.

Perlite or coal is added to maintain the optimal level of humidity, bactericidal properties, soil breakdown, so as not to allow the soil unnecessary to dry or be too wet.

The moisture regulator is a sphagnum, with which you can not overdo it: it can cause concrete processes. It is better to take the earth in a mixed forest, where coniferous trees, alder, linden grow, but the garden land is suitable.

Pot

For sheet, flower, and seeds taken to the reproduction, any small capacity of 4 cm in diameter and with holes from below for a good land drainage is suitable.

The grown plant needs to be transplanting into a pot size larger when the piolet in size will exceed the size of the previous pot in half.

If its size is not more than 6 cm, the violet simply roll up, adding a little ground at the edges and below. At the bottom it is necessary to make a little clay to prevent the stress of water.

Methods of breeding

The violets easily multiply using a sheet in soil and water. Rare specimens can be multiplied with a leaf fragment. In this way, you can not only expand the collection, but also save the plant that does not help.

There are methods of breeding with the help of seeds, bloomry and steps. Consider each of the methods of reproduction separately.

Reproduction sheet

This method of rooting in water or immediately in the ground is chosen by flowers most often. This is explained by such a way of simplicity and relative ease. The main thing is to be neat and patient. The main stages of breeding:

selection of planting material (sheet);
rooting the sheet in a special soil or in water;
division of children;
turning young sockets.

If you do everything competently, the bedroom violet will surely please you with a new healthy offspring.

How to choose a leaf suitable for breeding

The end result depends on the right choice of planting material.

For breeding it is better to use a sheet from the bottom row, but from the average, an example in the photo on the right.

It should not be sluggish, unnatural color, with stains. From such a sheet, get a good baby will be difficult. It is better to choose a brightly colored sheet, appropriate variety, elastic and strong. Do not take old leaves.

Important! If the cut sheet of violet became sluggish, then it is possible to put it in boiled water, slightly tinned by manganese, for several hours. Then you need to cut off the sheet by 3-4 cm. From the base and use for further breeding.

How to cut a sheet

Cut the suitable sheet need a sharp knife, scalpel, blade. The cutting part itself is treated with an antiseptic. The cutting angle must be made approximately 45⁰. The length of the stem on the sheet remaining after cutting must exceed 3 cm.

It is necessary to rinse and completely dry on a towel or a clean napkin about 20 minutes. This will stop the selection of juice and avoid further dropping sheet. You can skip the drying step in the water. Apply coal chopped into the cut slicer. You can see more details on the video below.

How to root a sheet in water

Step-by-step instruction of rooting indoor violet:

Take a suitable container: the glass jar of dark glass is best fit (for example, an empty medicine bottle).
Pour into it indoor temperature, boiled or distilled. Dissolve in it aid carbon tablet.
The violet leaf is lowered in such a way that the immersed part amounted to at no more centimeter. It is convenient to fix for this with a paper sheet with a slot.
Carefully monitor the water level so that the cut does not succeed due to insufficient amount of water. Maintain optimal temperature, prevent drafts and direct sunlight.
After about 2 weeks, the first roots will appear. The plant needs to be translated into the ground when their length reaches one centimeter.

Important! If the sheet starts to rot, you need to cut the affected part, rinse the container and change the water.

Rooting immediately into the soil

Another way to rooted a violet sheet, which is popular. The order of action here is the following:

Take a suitable pot of no more than 100 ml volume (floweries often use a plastic cup with holes);
By one third, fill in with a crumbling or crushed foam for drainage. Purchase in advance bought or cooked primer. Make a hole.
Cut sheet dip in the phytosporin solution to protect the plant from fungal diseases. The same solution is pouring into a well for additional disinfection.
The stalk of indoor violet will deepen on one and a half centimeters, not very tamping.
Put in a bright and warm place, protect from drafts. Do not put under the bright sun. To maintain humidity, cover the pot with a polyethylene package, a larger bank. Water as soon as the upper layer of soil gets dry.

Make a greenhouse from a package or container is not necessarily, especially when it comes to unpretentious varieties of violets. But with rare plants, it is better not to experiment and fulfill all the recommendations.

How to disassemble babies violets

The first leaves appear after a half or three months. It is necessary to start seating for children of violets after the appearance of 4-5 sheets. Plant height (if it is not a mini-violet) should be about 5 cm.

You need to take a pot of suitable size (approximately 7-8 cm.), Fall asleep drainage (clamzite or foam), fill with a special soil for violets by about two thirds. Soil acidity should not exceed pH 6.5 (weakly acidic soil).

Put a grown outlet in the center of the pot, sprinkle a new portion of the Earth. It is important not to fall asleep the point of growth, otherwise the plant may die. After it is good to pour the soil and ensure high-quality lighting and a comfortable temperature with transplanted children. You can look in more detail on the video below.

Fragment of the fragment of the sheet

The reproduction of a similar way appropriate with a limited number of landing material, when the violet variety is quite rare, and when a separate sheet began to grow and rot. Sheet of sheet is completely cut off. The leaf itself is divided in such a way that there is at least one veil on it. More often, flowerflowers root the top third of the sheet.

The slice is given to dry, and then processed with a pounding coal. Spring a fragment of the violet sheet is necessary so that the slice tightly in contact with the soil. It is even better to plant in such a way in sphagnum with bactericidal and moisture-hold properties.

Interesting fact! When multiplying the violet with a fragment of a leaf of kids will be greater than with any other way.

How violets are multiplied with flowers and steps

Such a way should be used when you want to preserve all the signs of this variety of violet. For example, at violet chimer beautiful color of petals. These methods will help keep the color of petals as bright that the parent plant.

The reproduction of steppes occurs as follows: the side steps (sockets), resulting in the sneakers around the main socket of the plant, are separated. The process of rooting occurs in the same way as the leaves. Then after rooting and the appearance of new leaves, they are transplanted into a suitable pot. At violek chimer, the potential of the color is not manifested in first bloom, so it is not worth upset if the first flowers did not justify hopes.

The reproduction of flowers is also used for chimer violets. Suitable blossomed or blonde. For such a method, unacceptable buds are not suitable. Floweros are cut off with disinfected scissors or a sharp blade along with horses, planting in sphagnum, creating a greenhouse above the flower. You need to wait for rooting (a new socket appears) and transplanted into the pot.

Reproduction of seeds

First you need to choose a pair of parents with suitable signs. Plants must be healthy, blossom in lush. From the flowers of one plant carefully collects pollen, and the pestles of another flower are pollinated. After 4 months, the seed boxes completely mature and become dry. In this form we collect and send them for storage for a couple of days.

Seed seeds of violets as follows. Soil with increased perlite content moisturize. Seeds mix with sand and plant. It is not necessary to cover the soil layer. The container with seeds lined with glass, put in a warm place for special lamps.

It is necessary to water from the pulverizer, carefully monitor and not allow drying. When the outlets reach 0.5 cm. In diameter, they need to be counted in separate containers with special soil and grow as seedlings. Periodically violets need to transplanted more in pots.

Proper landing of violets step by step

In order not to damage the plant, do not worsen his condition, the plant needs to be correctly transplanted. We will analyze all the nuances in detail, we will tell step by step, how to put a violet:

The transplanting frequency of violets is from six months to 9 months.
For a sufficiently fastened plant (no longer a baby, but not an adult plant), a pot is needed with a diameter of 8-9 cm., The maximum size for an adult violet is 11cm. Miniature violet works well in a 5 cm potted pot. The ratio of the diameter of the new pot with the diameter of the plant itself should be 3: 1. The size of the holes at the bottom should be about 3 mm. They need several. Pot, if used again, you need to displaced, from under the patients not use plants!
Fill up a quarter of the height of the Drainage, then sand (to cover the drain layer with a thin layer), then prepared soil mixture for violets.
When replaced by a more spacious pot, the violet simply roll up, adding a new soil along the edges. If the previous pot is used, the exhausted ground should be shaken a little with the roots. Remove damaged roots and pour into pieces with a rotten coal. Place the flower in the pot and holding the root neck, carefully make the soil with parts, gently distributing it between the roots. Top slightly tamper.
Transplanted violet to shed well. The first 2 weeks the plant will adapt. During this period, it is necessary to closely follow it: the temperature is slightly higher than 24 ℃, if necessary, create a greenhouse around the flower.

Possible errors in reproduction

List of key mistakes made by floweries:

wrong soil: too dense, with irregular acidity;
low humidity and temperature, straight sun rays;
weak or too abundant watering;
a strong root of the root neck;
no disinfection during rooting.

Such errors arise in ignorance of the rules of care of violets, its features. They lead to a slowdown in rooting, reinforcing planting material, braking flowering and the formation of new sheets.

Caring for processing

Care for the rooted margins of violets is similar to standard care for adult plants.

After rooting, the temperature is reduced from 27 to comfortable for violet 22-24. Humidity is needed within 50⁰.
The difference between irrigation of processes from adult violet is more frequent watering.
In the soil for the processes, you can add more perlite to the young gentle roots do not start.

Useful video

Learn more from the video below:

Summarize

The breeding of violets is a fairly exciting occupation. In addition, self-reproduction will help save, without buying a ready-made plant in pots at an overpriced price in a flower shop.

Knowing the rules and methods of breeding violets You can easily handle the task of increasing the number of indoor violets and replenish the collection of this plant with new varieties.