How to align the walls under the tile in the bathroom: preparation, options and execution technique. Alignment of walls in the bathroom under the tile for different surfaces than lines the walls in the bathroom

It's like in life, you want to win - properly prepare. In the same rule, it is necessary to follow the repairs. It is rare to meet the selected budget, even less likely to avoid errors when working. You can minimize risks only on condition that you have prepared for the future process and own the necessary knowledge. DIY repair is a difficult task. It takes time, energy consumption and knowledge of the sequence of execution steps. The decision to independently make alignment of walls in the bathroom should be taken, aware of the upcoming process.

Before starting the alignment of walls for laying tiles, spend time, to find out the state of the future base. The surface usually has flaws to be corrected during preparatory work.

Types of uneven walls:

• the slope of the wall (left or right). If there is more than 12 degrees, it is recommended to use drywall;
• uneven butt plates;
• the presence of bulge or concavity;
• wave-shaped surface in any direction.

Prepare the surface is easy, it is more difficult to determine the method that will reach the smooth wall close to ideal.

Exhibiting beaches

Determine on what surface the work will be used to work. Further action plan will depend on the result.

Use 2 methods:

• the plaster wall is simple to execute and complex in the preparation process;
• use of a leaf of plasterboard. The decision on its laying is taken if the difference between the plane points is more than 5 cm.

Installation of Mayakov

You can check the wall on the curvature either with a level of at least 2 m long, or using a plumb. For a second method, a carnation is driven into the corner under the ceiling, leaving it hang over the surface. It is tied by a long thread at the end of which the weights are fixed. Slightly above the floor level is driven by another carnation so that his hat is gone with a thread. On the other side they do the same procedure. Get 4 points in the corners of the walls that are used as beacons.

The next stage includes a connection of beacons in the opposite corners of the wall cross-cross. Make sure that the thread barely comes into contact with the surface of the wall throughout its entire. Now you can evaluate the surface geometry to select the wall alignment method.

Wall with beacons

Plaster Wall

Stuccoing walls The case is not such a simple, as it seems at first glance and includes several important processes.

Surface preparation

Before losing the wall under the laying of the tile, the basis is to prepare. Start with cleansing the surface from a layer of paint, remnants of wallpaper, construction dust. They knock down the protrusions, and chop pieces of concrete. Use a spatula and hammer for these works. So that the dust is less formed, the surface is moisturized. Cracks are expanding, considering loose concrete, it will provide a solid foundation for the next layer. Fill the deepening of cement mortar.

The primer provides a solid clutch of materials, so do not be neglected by this stage. Porous concrete blocks are impregnated with a finished solution of deep penetration. Brick wall, smooth concrete plates and materials with a dense surface are covered with any primer that forms a film. For plasterboard plates, a universal mixture for priming is used.

So that the plaster fastened well, on the wall you need to make notches

If the tile is planted to lay on the old wall and there are doubts about the strength of the base, then it is recommended to strengthen it with a chain net. The canvas are stuffed on the wall, carnations bend.

Application of solution

High-quality work implies a flat surface to make it use beacons. For convenience, metal profiles are used. To the wall they are fastened with the help of a gypsum solution, and while it does not froze align with a level. It is important to establish the profiles of lighthouses at a certain distance (1.5 m), which will allow the rules alignment quickly and smoothly.

The process of plaster for lighthouses

The next step is to populate the solution. The action is made using a spatula. The method is faster than the smelting of the mixture on the wall and allows you to use the entire prepared solution before it starts to lose its plasticity. Relying the rule on the profiles of beacons stretches the applied mixture for surface alignment. Then quickly remove metal rails and fill their places of them with a solution. From above again align the seam. Do not attempt to ideally smooth the surface of the wet wall. Wait for it to dry and then drop the trapezoid spatula with a plastered layer.

When applying a solution, consider that its final thickness should not exceed 2 cm.

If necessary, the second layer is applied to the first, only after its complete drying. For better clutch, the initial layer is "combing" a plastering comb.

Stucco on the grid

Packing plaster with spatula

The final stage

A soil is applied to a dry smooth plastered surface capable of impregnate it deeply. Those walls that will be exposed to moisture are additionally treated with waterproofing solution. Now you can lay the tile on a flat prepared surface.

Room after plastering

We select the mixture

Since work is coming in the room where there will be increased humidity, the choice of the leveling mixture should meet all environmental conditions. A proven and reliable mixture is cement. It is resistant to moisture, which means that the risk of the development of fungus, mold, swelling and its destruction is excluded.

Work on alignment of walls with plastering falcon

If work is decided to produce with your own hands and you are not a specialist in this area, it will be useful to listen to the advice of the consultant in the store. Prepare a cement solution yourself either choose the finished dry composition for water dilution.

Alignment of walls in the bathroom is made even with a plasterboard sheet. It is difficult to judge that it will be easier for a beginner, with your own hands and forces to put on the wall and align the cement mixture or install the chipboard panel. What method "will require" your walls depends on their curvature and quite a little bit of the desire of the owner of the housing.

Application of the finishing layer of putty

So that the tile lay exactly and without defects, the surface must be perfect

Alignment of walls of plasterboard

Gypsum panels can not only align the surface, with their help it is possible to change the internal space of the bath, create a box for communications.

In the bathroom, there is moisture-resistant plasterboard, its design is resistant to water and is not deformed under its exposure over time.

There is a small minus when installing these panels, they are slightly "eaten" the indoor space of the room. The advantages of the method include:

• it is possible to quickly align the surface of the walls;
• the result is ideally flat surfaces;
• a budget option.

Alignment of walls under the tile with drywall

Preparing for installing panels

Before installation, the walls are carried out. Cleans from dirt and dust, remove excess concrete. Cracks are cleaned from the molded cement and close up with a solution. After the primer layer is applied. Choose a tool based on the wall surface. The porous and loose source material, the higher the penetrating properties of the primer should be.

We can use the wall processing against mold and fungus. It will take time for drying the wall, during which the sheets of plasterboard are cut. Work is simple, you can cut the panels on the marked lines with your own hands. Consider that there is an unacceptable cruciform connection of gypsum sheets.

Under the tile in the bathroom choose sheets with a thickness of 12 mm. If you start repairing not immediately, you keep the panel so that there are no deformation. By the way, you can install the panels only in the bathroom, which has a vent hole, otherwise, the service life of the material is reduced.

Proper application of glue on a sheet of GLK

Installation of plasterboard

Before installing plasterboard plates, it is necessary to provide them with a reliable mount on the wall. Heavy leaf so that it does not "swam" vertical-based vertical base over the floor at an altitude of 7-10 mm through small gaps. It is possible to simplify installation if you put wooden panels or trimming under the panel.

A gypsum gluing glue adhesive is applied to the spatula. It is not smeared, but put a portion, observing a chess order. The distance to the edge of the panel is at least 5 cm, the interval when applied to a mixture of approximately 30 cm.

The sheet is applied to the wall by setting its base on the self-tapping screw, and pressed. To test the glue enough, drop off the plasterboard from the wall and look at which side it is necessary to add a binder mixture.

When installing drywall, you can smear the glue on the walls or sheets

Using the level, the position of the sheet is determined. Adjust the angle of inclination is convenient with your own hands using a rubber hammer. Silent blows are customized by plasterboard to the desired position. Works are carried out immediately while glue is still plastic. The next cloth is glued with the previous one. Check the geometry level and again align the position of the sheet with a hammer.

Before laying the tile, it is recommended to predict gypsum sheets. Thus, it is thus once again avoiding the development of mold and remove dust from the panels. Seam sealing can be avoided if the gaps are too small. For sealing use moisture-resistant putty. Increase the stability of drywall to moisture can be applied by the waterproofing layer. It is better to carry out these manipulations in the installation places of the bathroom, shower and shell.

Independent alignment of walls in the bathroom is not such a complex process as it may seem at first glance. Glorious preparation and qualitative materials will provide a worthy result.

Facing the "wet" zones with ceramic tiles is the most correct, and therefore a very popular way of finishing the bathroom. The market presents a huge range of tiled cladding, so that the owner of the apartment can create a unique, original interior, fully corresponding to its individual requirements and opportunities. But in order to carry out the right repair, you should prepare the walls in advance to the final finish, which will be discussed below.

Requirements for walls for tile trim

Considering the advantages of tile, professionals necessarily note the minimum requirements for the condition of the facing surface. Alignment of walls in the bathroom under the tile may be required only in two cases: if the surfaces are not very homogeneous and have many defects, as well as in cases of using the mosaic tile for designing the room, which places increased requirements for the evenness of the foundations facing.

To make sure that it is necessary to align the partitions under the tile before repair, it is necessary to pre-check the verticality of the walls. Ceramic tiles are installed exclusively on perfectly vertical surfaces. When you try to install on the surface with essential irregularities and other shortcomings, it may be necessary to pre-cut the facing, which will negatively affect the attractiveness of the interior.

To check the wall on verticality use standard plumb. To do this, the top of the wall is fixed by a nail, after which the position of the thread is checked next to the floor. If the distance from the thread to the wall at the floor level is exactly as near the fixed nail, the wall is considered even and vertical. Alignment of walls under the tile is required if the vertical bias is more than 1 cm.

After checking verticality, you must make sure that there are no wall irregularities. You can make it a long rail or rule: you need to attach a tool to the surface and estimate the presence of depressions and essential protrusions on it. The check must be carried out repeatedly, on different parts of the wall, the more surface will be checked, the more accurately the state can be determined. A large number of defects leads to the need to level the surface using drywall sheets. The type of fastening of GLC is selected taking into account the magnitude of the protrusions on the wall. If they are more than 2 cm, then the sheets should be attached to the crate, to eliminate smaller disadvantages, you can align the surface with plasterboard, fixing the sheets with self-testers or glue directly on the wall.

If there is essential depression on the wall and chosel, they will first have to scream. In each case, an individual set of preparatory work is required, before final finish using tile. To find out how to level the walls in the bathroom, you need to take into account all the identified shortcomings of the surface. Alignments require only large protrusions and depressions, as well as vertical deviations. If there are minor defects and cracks, the wall can be faced without prior preparation.

Alignment of walls in "wet" zones cement mortar

The method of equalizing the surfaces with cement mortar is suitable for eliminating almost any flaws. Before starting repair, you should purchase the required amount of cement and sand. No need to be afraid to buy a little more blend than required, good cement in the farm will be useful and more than once, especially since it can continue to maintain its technical characteristics.

For repair, there will also need plaster, rope, roulette, plumb, level and rails for lighthouses. Having all the necessary tools, you can fight with the most essential disadvantages of the walls, which are considered to be vertical deviations. If the wall is not only worth a tilt, but also has essential potholes and depressions, the repair procedure will be even more complicated.

So, in order to align the walls in the bathroom, it is necessary to pre-assess the surface for the presence of sprinkled zones. If they are detected, they are carefully removed by the construction hammer. Now you need to prepare a little cement mortar according to the manufacturer's instructions and install the beacon along the wall. The first lighthouse is mounted at a distance of up to 300 mm from the angle, the distance between several beacons should be less than the total length of the rule used.

To establish a lighthouse, you need to draw a vertical strip of cement mortar to the entire height of the wall. In this solution, the Lighthouse Rake and check its vertical level. If the initially rake is not vertically, it is adjusted by clicking in the right places. The second lighthouse is installed in exactly the same way at a distance from the first slightly less than the length of the existing rule. When lighthouses are installed, you need to give them some time to complete the solution, usually not more than 3-4 hours.

Align the walls in the bathroom under the tile using a cement solution, only throwing a solution on the wall. If the mixture is simply smeared on the surface, then its adhesion will be unsatisfactory, which is very important, given the large entire ceramic tile.

For a solution of a solution, you can use a trowel or bucket. It is very important to throw the cement mixture in such a way that it is smooth rows to bed on the treated surface without skips. In the process of filling the distance between the beacons, you will definitely learn how to make such a simple work that only seems difficult.

The mass on the surface is pounced towards the bottom upward, trying to withstand the thickness of the layer not more than 1-2 centimeters of the thickness used for the beacons of the rails. Every 50-60 centimeters covered with a solution with a solution of the wall excess cement need to be removed by the rule, leaning it to the beacons and spending upwards. The surplus remaining on the rule can be simply reset in a bucket with a solution.

When one piece of the wall is embedded with a solution, you can proceed to the next section. It is not necessary to fear the attachment of too much layer of concrete, even if after drying it cracks a little, it will not have a negative effect on the quality of the adhesion of the final layer of cladding with the treated surface.

Alignment Wall in the bathroom Plasterboard - Features and difficulties

The second method of preparing a faced tile surface for repair involves the installation on the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall of moisture-resistant sheets of plasterboard. This method allows to effectively align the wall, even if it has very serious defects and protrusions. First you need to place the wall for the installation of horizontal metal profiles. They must be located at a distance of 60 cm from each other when using standard size plasterboard sheets. Professionals are recommended to install also vertical profiles. It is not necessary to mount drywall, the main thing is that they will not give the moth sheets to be fed towards the wall. To prepare metal profiles suitable in length and height of the room, they will be pre-cut with scissors for metal.

On the floor, the guide profile is fixed on the floor, and on the wall - the suspensions at a distance of up to 60 cm apart. It is very important that all the installed suspensions are located on one vertical line. Now the extreme profiles are installed, the evenness of which must be controlled by the level. After placing profiles, they are fastened with self-draws, and long perforated tapes bend so that they do not prevent the installation of hyposarton.

Between extreme profiles stretch the ropes to install vertical profiles. When installing the GLC standard size in 1.2 m, the axis line of vertical profiles must be located on the edge of the sheet. The distance between individual profiles in the middle of the GLC can be different depending on the wall configuration and the thickness of the material used.

When all preliminary work is completed, it will only be asked to consolidate HCL to profiles with self-draws. Screw the screws should be slow and carefully. Gypsum Carton is a fragile material, and with a high torque moment, the self-pressing hat can turn through the stove. The joints of all stoves should be located along the axes of profiles, while there should be enough space on the profiles to install the second, third and all other purchased plasterboard plates on the wall.

Solving than to level the walls in the bathroom under the tile, do not even consider the variant of the pre-finishing of the surface with plaster. This material does not differ in strength and can simply not withstand the weights of the tile installed over it. If the installation of GLCs on the crate seems too complicated, and the wall has no protrusions more than 2 cm, the drywall can be installed directly on the wall, fixing the sheets with self-draws or special glue.

Bathroom finishing with ceramic tiles - optimal option for all indicators. This is not only a traditional way, but also, thanks to modern production technologies, very popular. A huge variety of types of tiles allows designers to create unique interiors, from the most expensive exclusive to cheap budget. Despite the big difference in the cost of materials, each consumer has the opportunity to buy a beautiful and high-quality tile at quite an affordable price.

Among the numerous advantages of ceramic tiles there is one very important from the point of view of builders - under it there is no need to make the wall perfectly smooth. The spread over the centimeter is eliminated during the tile masonry, you should not waste time and money for preparatory work.

In addition, over, mosaic tiles. Under it will have to thoroughly align the surface, this material does not tolerate irregularities, but to eliminate the problems of the wall due to the control of the glue thickness is very difficult. Only real professional tires with extensive practical experience can be engaged in such work.

We will talk about several technologies for leveling surfaces for all types of ceramic tiles, taking into account the actual status of the walls.

Materials for leveling under the tile

We will not consider specific manufacturers, there are a lot of them both domestic and foreign. We will tell only about the types of materials.

Material type	Brief characteristics
	Traditional materials are distinguished by the highest performance indicators. Universal use, suitable for all types of finishing walls. Due to high strength and adhesion with all construction materials, the stability of the bearing walls increases, protect the brick from further destruction. There are moisture-proof species, innovative additives may have innovative. The cost is available to all consumers.
	An extremely unsuccessful option due to the large hygroscopicity of the material. Although there are currently samples with reduced hygroscopicity indicators, builders do not recommend using them as the main material for alignment of walls in the bathroom. The main dignity is to quickly grab, due to which the time of work is accelerated. But this can be considered a disadvantage - only professionals can work with them.
	Currently, these materials are very popular with construction companies. The alignment of the walls is done quickly, and the cost of work is estimated much higher than when using cement mixtures. The result - companies significantly increase profits. Bathrooms can only be used by moisture-resistant OSP and plasterboard plates.

cement plaster for the bathroom

Algorithm for alignment of walls under the tile

To all the work should be approached, it concerns and align the walls in the bathroom. Before choosing material for alignment, you need to carefully examine the walls.

What to pay attention to first? How does the actual state of surfaces affect the choice of technology?

1. Check the verticality of all walls. This is the main indicator, the choice of optimal technology largely depends on it. Feature of ceramic tile - it should be laid only on vertical surfaces, otherwise in the corners will have to cut under the wedge. And this is not only ugly, but also indicates a low qualification of the tiler.

   The vertical of the walls is checked by an ordinary plumb. Fasten the nail at the top of the wall and look at the position of the thread below. To clearly see deviations, you can use a ruler or tape measure. Leave it to the wall under the ceiling and near the floor, measure the difference in the testimony. If the difference is more centimeter, then the wall will have to roll. Moreover, only plaster or drywall on profiles is allowed. The angle between the walls may differ from the direct, it is not a problem for tiles.

2. Long rule or rack check the condition of surfaces for the presence of protrusions and depressions. Lean the instrument in several places, the more often the better. If there are a lot of irregularities, but they are minor in size, the walls are better to level OSP or plasterboard plates. Moreover, they are allowed to glue directly on the wall without metal profiles.

   Checking flatness of walls

3. If the irregularities of more than two centimeters and there are many of them, then the optimal wall is twisted or aligned with plasterboard plates on a metal frame.

Each case requires an individual approach. Sometimes it is enough to cut down several large protrusions and close the critical deepening, to correct the surface with a putty - and the surface of the wall is prepared for clamping with ceramic tiles. On this level of equalization can be considered complete. All other irregularities are eliminated by glue during tile laying. As for shallow cracks, in most cases they can not touch them, they do not affect the quality of the finishing finish. If you are planning to separate the bathroom with mosaic tiles, the walls must be carefully prepared. You can do it with cement-based plasters (reliable, but long and expensive) or plates (much faster). Which option to choose is only your solution.

We will look at three options for alignment of walls, each of them has its own characteristics and requires special knowledge.

Alignment of walls in bathroom cement-sand solutions

This method can be used in all cases without exception, the most traditional and demanded by the responsible builders. For work, you need to purchase a dry mixture, the amount depends on the scope of work. But do not be afraid if a little material remains, it will always come in handy in the future. And tightly packed and in the appropriate conditions, the stored dry mixture retains its initial properties for quite a long time.

Prepare tools plaster, metal or wooden rails for beacons, level, plumb, rope, roulette.

For example, we will look at the most difficult case - the walls not only have big irregularities, but also rejected vertically. In addition, the old brick in the bathroom began to raise, it needs to be strengthened.

Step 1. With a construction hammer or chisel, remove the sprinkled parts of the bricks. Ideally need to get to the whole.

Apply to the walls of the "Betonacton" primer

Step 2. Prepare a little solution according to the manufacturer's instructions. Place the beacons, the first must be at a distance of about 20-30 cm from the corner. The distance between all the beacons is slightly less than the length of the rule. Before installing lighthouses, you must learn what thickness of the plaster needs to be thrown.

How to install beacons?

1. Sketch a vertical ribbon to the height of the room, climb a lighthouse in it. Using the level, install it precisely in a vertical position, to do this, lean the tool plane to the metal profile and press it in the right places.
2. Make the same operation from the opposite corner of the wall. If the size of the room is greater than the length of the rule, then intermediate lighthouses should be made. They are made in the same way, and the alignment on the plane is made by the rule or stretched ropes between the extreme beacons. Give time to cool the mass, further work can be carried out in 2-3 hours.

Do not forget to embroider the surfaces of the walls before throwing the mass. It is necessary to do this by an ordinary painting brush, it should be wrapped in water tanks.

Important. Please note that we are constantly saying to throw a lot, and not to smear. Never smear it, such a method of plaster not only looks ridiculous, but at times it worsens the strength of the clutch of the solution with the wall.

Practice to throw a lot with effort, slaps must lie down with smooth rows without skips and approximately the same height. The brush hands should be relaxed, the trowel must move at the same time to the wall and up or down. Learn to squeeze the solution on the left and right, up and down, take the mass of both the side of the trin, and the end. To get the skills you will need time if you do not succeed at all, it means that plastering is not for you. Contact professionals for help. But never smear the solution on the wall, it will fall off with the ceramic tile.

While the lighthouses on one wall are frozen, proceed to their installation on the next, so you will significantly speed up the work.

Step 3. Install the stucco thickness limiters on the outer corners of the wall, they are always needed in the door and window openings to finish the slopes.

How are they installed? To do this, you will need even thin boards, nails or dowels (depending on the material of the wall of the wall), any segments of sawn timber for spacers, homemade metal clamps. If the layer of plaster is small, then you can use factory metal corners. But we consider it more efficient use as guide thin boards - with their help you can adjust any thickness, and fixtures are installed much faster. The boards are fixed in any way in the corner (nailed, clamped with struts, homemade clamps made of metal rods, glued with glue or plaster, etc.), the position is aligned with the already established beacons. After soaring plaster boards are removed. Another advantage of the method we suggests - an angle is plastered simultaneously with the wall, which not only speeds up the work, but also increases the strength of plaster, it does not have seams.

Step 4. Start shuffling. Take the weight from the bottom up, the thickness is approximately the centimeter-two more than the height of the beacons. After about 50-70 cm, remove the surplus of the solution by the rule. Raise it on beacons top with simultaneous movement left / right. Collected surplus Throw back to the bucket, large recesses immediately close up.

Step 5. In this way, continue to flash the wall. Do not be afraid that in some places the layer of plaster will be very thick. If the thickness is greater than 2 cm, then cracks will appear during drying, but in our case it is not a problem. On the quality of the installation of ceramic tiles, the cracks of negative influence do not provide.

If you have not enough experience with the rule, the big irregularities will have to eliminate the ironing. It is possible to work with her on a slightly hardened plaster. No need to seek an ideally smooth surface, align only big "waves". If the time is missed and the mass has become too solid, then we wake it a bit with water.

On this wall alignment with cement mortar is completed.

Video - Facing Bathroom Tile

Alignment of large irregularities walls with plates

We have already said that you can use various plates, but for example, take the cheapest - moisture-resistant plasterboard.

Step 1. Marking of walls. Metal profiles should be located at a distance of 60 cm along the axes for the standard dimensions of plasterboard plates. If they have to be trimmed, then the distance changes in such a way that the fixation is also on the edge of the cut.

We recommend installing additional vertical profiles, you can not screw the screws in them, the main thing is that they do not allow plasterboard plates to fake. Profile length equates to the height of the bathroom ceiling.

The elements are cut by scissors for metal or a grinder with an abrasive disc. It is not necessary to be afraid that as a result of high temperatures during cutting with a grinder, several millimeters of zinc coating will be lost, corrosive processes are so insignificant that it will not affect the stability and durability of the design.

Step 2. Secure the guide profile on the floor, fixing is done by dowels. Secure perforated suspensions on the wall, the distance between them is 50-60 cm. Make sure that all the suspensions are located exactly on one vertical line.

Step 3. Start installing extreme profiles, use the level for this. After they are exhibited in a vertical position, fasten them using metal screws. Long portions of perforated ribbon bend in such a way that they do not create obstacles during the installation of sheets.

Step 4. Tension between the extreme elements of the rope and mount all the remaining vertical profiles. If the walls have a complex configuration, then additionally mount the horizontal jumpers for fixing drywall segments. The width of the standard drywall is 120 cm, the axis line of vertical profiles should be located on the edge of the sheet, closely follow this parameter. The distance between the profiles located in the middle of the plasterboard can be changed, taking into account its thickness and configuration.

Practical advice. If there are risks of mechanical load on the wall, then in these places it is recommended to increase the number of vertical profiles. Gypsum Carton has low physical strength indicators, and an increased number of fixation places increases mechanical stability indicators. In all places of joints of sections of plasterboard, it is necessary to put reinforcing jumpers.

Step 5. Secure plasterboard sheets to the installed profiles on the self-tapping screw. Tighten the hardware very carefully, the strength of the gypsum is so small that with minor tightening torque of the self-pressing cap completely produce the stove, you will have to perform fasteners elsewhere. Ensure that the stakes of the slabs are located exactly along the profile axis, leave a place to fix the second sheet. Work requires certain practical skills, should not be upset if problems with screwing the screws arise from the first time.

In the same method, install all sheets, carefully work in window and doorways. Under the ceramic tiles of the seams and connectivity places are not needed. Clean the surface only from dust and start installing ceramic tiles.

Practical advice. It is recommended to use drywall with a thickness of at least 1.5-2.0 cm with a thickness window, be sure to reduce the distance between vertical frame racks. Such events serve as additional insurance and increase operational performance indicators. Ceramic tile is attached to glue, as soon as the stove begins, the glue crackles and the tile can fall off.

Alignment of walls in bathroom plates of drywall glue

This method is recommended to be used if the walls have a large number of irregularities, but their dimensions do not exceed one centimeter. The advantages of the frameless installation of plasterboard mounting can be attributed to the following indicators:

• rapidity. In comparison with the traditional framework method of installation, the speed of work increases by about twice;
• cheapness. The total estimated cost of alignment of the walls is reduced by a minimum of 30%. The walls are allowed to be separated by thinner plates, in addition, there is no need to buy metal framework elements;
• increased coating strength. Due to the application of glue, the area of \u200b\u200bprovistent sections is significantly reduced. It is very important in the case of finishing surfaces of the surfaces with ceramic tiles;
• manufacturability. Works can perform low qualifications builders.

Concrete drill

Due to the reduction of savory sites, you can use plates with a thickness of 10 mm.

Step 1. Make the wall markup. You need with the help of support beacons designate the aligned plane. It is necessary to do this in such a sequence:

• at the corners of the wall by the ordinary level of the level of the vertical planks for lighthouses. In the future, they can be dismantled or left, no difference. Try to do so that the wall alignment is performed with a minimum glue thickness. It saves material and increases the useful volume of the room;
• at the top, at the bottom and in the midst of extreme lighthouses pull the threads;
• at a distance of about 40-50 cm along the threads, install the dowels, the height of the caps is adjustable by threads. Thus, you will have three rows of beacons, all the caps are located in the same plane. These hats will rely on the back side of the plasterboard plates during their gluing.

Practical advice. If you have a long rule for the entire height of the wall, then there are enough two rows of reference beacons - at the top and bottom. If you need to fix small segments of sheets, then for each of them you need to install your support beacons.

On this markup is completed, prepare glue and cut off the plates in size.

Step 2. Springk or spatula sketch the glue on the wall, the height of the adhesive is about 2-3 cm more than the height of the hats of the screws. The distance between the deposit points of the glue is 15-20 cm, in each case, correct this parameter yourself. If you know, in what places the load on the stove will be maximum, then increase the number of points of fixation points in them. Due to this minimize the risks of the deflection of plasterboard plates.

LED location on sheet

Step 3. Put the stove to the wall, align its position and the rule press to the support beacons (screws of the screws). Make sure that the plasterboard does not be fed to better align the rules over the surface in many places. Starting the installation of sheets follows from the corner of the bathroom, first fix the whole plates, measure the stops and fixing the segments last. Alone is difficult to work, attract helpers.

. Adjusting in the seams glue immediately clean, after frozen, problems may arise. The material has so high adhesion rates that during purification can disrupt the integrity of the plasterboard plate.

Print slabs the first time. If, due to any causes, the plasterboard flashed, it is quite difficult to correct the error, keep it in mind. It is strictly forbidden to lean to fresh-proof plates, do not storage about them materials. If, after soaring the glue, it was found that the plane of the slab was concave, then it should be completely removed, squeeze the remnants of glue and all operations to repeat again. This is an unpleasant job, and time will need a lot.




We gave three methods of alignment of walls in the bathroom under the tile. Each of them has its own characteristics and is not considered optimal for all cases. Take decisions individually, consider the maximum number of factors. Including their construction skills.

plasterboard moisture resistant

Video - Alignment of walls in the bathroom plaster

So that the tile looked in the bathroom well and did not disappear in the next few years, you need to properly prepare the walls to carry out this procedure. If they were uneven, you need to eliminate this disadvantage. Today there are many ways to quickly align the surfaces. There are also certain rules for the choice of techniques. How to level the walls under the tile in the bathroom will be discussed below.

How to determine unevenness

To align the walls under the laying of the tile, you need to measure how large irregularities. This will take advantage of simple construction tools. With their help, it will be possible to check, even in the room corners, as well as the correspondence of the vertical and horizontal lines of each other. In addition, it will be necessary to determine if there are potholes and bulges, what are their size.

First check the vertical of the walls. This applies a plumb. At the top of the wall fasten the nail with the thread. Next measure the distance from it to the wall at the top and bottom of the room. If the difference is more than 1 cm, you will need to align the walls.

The long rule explore the surface of the wall for the presence of bulges and depression. It is applied to the base. Then the differences are made. If they make up more than 2 cm, it will be necessary to pay sufficient attention to the leveling process.

Also evaluated how many irregularities are on the wall. If there are few them, you can solve the problem locally. The bulges can be cut down, and the depressions should be embedded with a solution.

Methods of alignment

How to level the walls in the bathroom under the tile? There are several ways to solve this problem. The choice of technique depends on the results of the validity of the walls. If the surface has many small irregularities, it can be covered with plaster. Very small irregularities and cracks can be sealed locally, without treating the entire wall. If there are many defects, or the wall began to crumble, it is better to cover the entire surface with a layer of solution.

Often, plasterboard sheets are used for alignment. This material can be glued to the wall or mounted on a special metal frame. The second option is suitable only if the bathroom is spacious. Otherwise, the internal space will be significantly reduced. This method allows you to remove the most complex, large irregularities.

If the plasterboard is glued to the walls, the size of the bathroom will decrease slightly. This method is suitable for grounds that have many small damage.

Type of plaster

What mixture to lift the walls under the tile? The sale presents two main types of plaster. They are characterized by their basis. These are cement-sand and gypsum compositions. To choose a suitable solution, you need to use the advice of specialists. They argue that gypsum plaster mixes are suitable for dry room. The area of \u200b\u200btheir application is limited.

If in the bathroom to level the walls with plaster plaster, it will strongly absorb moisture, swelling and deforming. As a result, the tile will disappear from such a surface very quickly. And for dry premises, gypsum compositions are preferable, as they allow you to maintain the correct parameters of the microclimate.

Cement-sand plaster is ideal for the bathroom. It is not afraid of moisture exposure. At the same time, the sandcant is characterized by good adhesion indicators. It will provide a long service life of the tile. With the help of similar solutions, it is possible to highlight the wall in accordance with all the rules and norms.

Instruments

Some owners of private houses and apartments cannot solve, align the walls on their own or refer to specialists. The second option is preferable if you do not have time to repair. Then you should hire the team of professionals, paying not only for the materials, but also for the work of the repairmen. So, for example, align the walls in the bathroom under the tile in Domodedovo costs about 180-200 rubles / m². The price varies depending on the complexity of work and its volume.

If the hosts have enough free time to repair with their own hands, they must prepare a number of instruments and materials. Work on the level equalization is relatively simple. You just need to know some nuances.

In the process of equalizing the base, the master will require a construction level, a rule, trowel for sandcant and a brush for primer. You also need to purchase a wide spatula, grater. To intervene the solution, a capacity of approximately 5 liters will be required. In the process of processing walls, protective glasses will be needed, respirator, as well as gloves. It is necessary to prepare a grinder and a drill with a nozzle to mix cement. Measurements are produced using roulette and pencil.

Cement-sand mixture

How to level the walls in the bathroom under the tile? It is necessary to purchase cement-sandy solution, as well as primer. The amount of materials is chosen in accordance with the size of the room. Building materials are presented in different packaging.

As a rule, for conducting work on leveling grounds in the bathroom, sandbeton M300 brand is used. It is sold in bags of different packaging. Most often acquire packaging 50 kilograms.

The most commonly purchased compositions today are:

• Dauer - 181 rubles.
• FIX - 159 rub.
• "Titanit" - 144 rubles.
• Baumax - 167 rubles.
• DE LUXE - 179 rub.

Prices are presented for a bag weighing 50 kg, but they can vary significantly depending on the composition included in the component of additives and operational properties.

Primer

In the process of work, the primer is necessarily used. The choice of composition is envy on the type of walls in the room. So, if it is a porous surface, such as brick, you will need to purchase deep penetration primer. It will reduce the consumption of the cement mixture, improve its clutch with the surface.

Today, the most sought-after primers of deep penetration are "Cerezite St-17" (1 L - 115 rubles), Baouffephy (2.5 kg - 100 rubles). The composition penetrates into the wall structure, closes the pores.

How to align the concrete wall under the tile? In this case, it will take a completely different type of primer. It creates a special film that improves the adhesion of the cement mortar with a smooth base. This is concrete contact. A special type of composition allows you to create a rough coating on the surface. The best in this area are called "Krafor" (3 l - 260 rubles), "Ceresite ST-19" (5 l - 460 rubles), "Dali" (3.5 l - 365 rubles).

Preparation of the foundation

Having considered, the better to align the walls under the tile, it is worth paying attention to the peculiarities of this process. It is worth noting that before treating the surface with a solution or fixing drywall, you need to properly prepare the basis.

To do this, remove the old finish from the walls by applying a spatula. They are written all the remaining materials. From the bathroom it is recommended to make all the furniture and other items. The preparation of the walls is dusty, so it is carried out in the respirator, protective glasses and gloves.

To speed up the process, you can use the grinder. To reduce the amount of dust, you can periodically make the surface with a spray with a spray. If after processing there are small cracks, they can be expanded at right angles and close with a solution.

Wall shockting

How to lift the walls under the tile? You need to start with the installation of lighthouses. These are guides that regulate the thickness of the cement-sand mixture. It can be applied to the surface with a thickness of 5-20 mm.

Lighthouses are installed with such a step so that the rule can be held. This indicator usually is 150 cm.

It is necessary to prepare a solution that is consumed for 30 minutes. It must be sufficient enough to do not drain from the surface. Next, it is smeared on the wall or pinched with cakes. The second option is more complicated. It is simpler to smear a thick solution on the surface of the base.

Alignment of solution

After the listed manipulations must be solved. How to align the walls under the tile with your own hands? First, over the surface is carried out by the rule. Both of its end should slide on beacons. So it turns out to create a practically smooth surface. If there are depressions, they add a solution.

You need to leave the wall to dry within 60 minutes. During this time, the solution will grab, but will not dry completely. At this moment you need to remove beacons out of it. The cavities should be selected by cement mortar. Next, you need to give a solution to dry completely. For tiles, an ideally smooth surface is not so important, so the finish can not be grinding.

When the solution is dry, garbage and dust are removed from it. The surface is covered with primer deep penetration. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the tile.

Plasterboard on glue

You can align the walls in the bathroom under the tile of plasterboard. The sheets are glued to the surface. To do this, you will need to purchase moisture-resistant plasterboard and special glue. This method is suitable for surfaces in which height differences are no more than 2 cm.

Walls before alignment is prepared in the same way as before putty. Cutting material is simply carried out. To do this, it is enough to use the stationery knife. Sheets are glued to a pre-projected surface.

On the perimeter and in the center of GLC is applied glue composition. This is a thick mixture that needs to be applied with small pellets. The step between them should be 30 cm. After that, the plasterboard is simply pressed against the surface. Next you need to use the construction level. With it, it is checked, the sheet was evenly attached. If necessary, its position is adjusted.

Application of carcass

Considering, it is worth remembering another way. Installation of drywall on the frame is justified only if the irregularities of the walls are more than 2 cm. If the space indoors is small, it is better to give preference to other options.

First you need to make a drawing. The plan provides for the location of all framework elements, as well as the placement of water, sewer, electrical and other communications. It is necessary in order to prevent the error in the installation process.

Each profile is installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other. This is due to the standard size of plasterboard sheets. Their fixation occurs strictly in the center of the profile surface. If the sheet is cut, it is necessarily taken into account when creating a frame.

Profiles must provide rigidity design. It is unacceptable that the sheets of hypokarton begged. Therefore, intermediate profiles must be installed in the framework. They will provide additional fixation of sheets in the center. At the same time, the plasterboard does not even be screwed to them. You just need to drink a sheet to an additional metal crossbar.

Considering how to level the walls under the tile in the bathroom, a number of specialist recommendations should be taken into account. They advise to acquire a profile for a vertical installation, which will correspond to the ceiling height in the room. If you need to cut a profile, apply scissors for metal or Bulgarian.

Mounting process

How to level the walls under the tile in the bathroom with a plasterboard? First, the profile is installed on the floor using a dowel. Perforated suspensions fix on a wall with a step of 60 cm. You need to check that they are all located on the vertical line.

By setting up the scheme all the elements of the frame, they are fixed with self-draws. Next, plasterboard sheets are installed. They are also fixed by self-draws that should not be strongly dragging. The joints between the sheets are not needed. Sheets should not bend. Otherwise, the tile will disappear from such a surface.

September 5, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (bookmark the foundation, construction of walls, roof design, etc.). Domestic construction work (laying internal communications, roughing and finishing). Hobbies: Mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

Performing repair with your own hands in the plumbing room, especially attention, in my opinion, should be given to the walls. It is necessary to produce their alignment, decide how to isolate surfaces from water, which is used for decorative finish and how to close the distance between the bathroom and the wall.

Below I will give an example of an optimal, from my point of view, technology that makes it possible to achieve a qualitative result with optimal costs of forces, tools and time.

Choosing materials

I want to start with how to level the walls in the bathroom. The most common technologies for solving this task, from my point of view, are two:

• shuttering surfaces using cement mortar and lighthouses;
• installation of sheet material, followed by its decorative finish;

I advise the first option in cases where customers do not know, the better to align concrete walls or surfaces from block materials (for example, gas blocks), which practically do not have deviations from the vertical. In this case, the layer of plaster will be minimal, as well as the complexity of the operation itself.

However, this method has many drawbacks, which I will not list here. The main thing that I want to say, with the help of plastering, it is difficult to level the significant deviations of the fencing surfaces by vertical (up to the point that it is necessary to perform shockting in several layers).

Therefore, the surface curves (brick, saman walls and monolithic structures, cast poor quality) is better aligned with sheet materials -, oxo-plates, drywall.

Wood I would not recommend using in the bathroom due to increased air humidity in this room. Therefore, the choice of how to make walls is obvious - plasterboard sheets. Especially since this material has a huge number of advantages that I listed in the table below.

Characteristic	Description
High thermal resistance	It has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, so after installation on the wall plays the role of an additional insulation. But for really high-quality thermal insulation of surfaces, it will have to use more efficient materials - foam, basalt wool, and so on.
Small weight	GLC weighs a bit, so its application for the interior decoration of the plumbing room will not create a significant additional load on the building elements of the building (which is important, for example, for houses from aerated concrete).
Flexibility	By applying a special technology (flexion of moistened drywall on the patterns and frame), using GCL, you can equip curvilinear structures on the walls and the ceiling. This makes it possible to diversify the design of the bathroom.
Fire resistance	The material consists of plaster and two cardboard sheets, therefore practically not susceptible to burning. Only the cellulose layer on the part of the fire is destroyed. GLC does not support burning, does not allow the fire further and does not highlight dangerous combustion products.
Ecology	The material described here has a practically zero formaldehyde emission ratio, therefore is completely safe for the human body.
Easy mounting	Plasterboard is very easy to install on the walls with glue or on a pre-designed frame. Align the wall with it is much easier than if you choose plaster. The instruction presented below, I think, will convince you of this.
Affordable price	The acquisition of plasterboard, although somewhat increases the costs of materials, the total cost of leveling work will be low. And he does not have to talk about laboriousness.

Immediately warn you that for the repair of walls in the bathroom you need to use only moisture-resistant plasterboard-material painted in green. Only it is well tolerating operation in the air with an increased content of water vapor.

Choosing installation method

Now it's time to decide how to align the walls in the bathroom with GLC. They can be glued on the surface with glue (mounting solution) or install on the frame. I prefer the last option and now I will explain why.

Installation of sheet carcart sheets on the frame has such advantages:

1. The ability to level significant differences vertically.When making a framework on special brackets, it is possible to level the walls with any curvature. The adhesive method will not allow this to do, because the permissible amount of glue is limited. And there is nothing about plaster and talk.
2. Hiding engineering systems in the bathroom.When installing drywall on the frame, a false wall is formed, under which you can pave any amount of water and sewer pipes, electrical cables and air channels. In the case of adhesive method, it would be necessary to additionally stroke the walls.
3. Arrangement of complex architectural elements (Arch, niches, shelves, countertops). Hipsokarton on the frame makes it possible at the same time with alignment to make the shelves, cabinets, niches, protrusions and so on. And for them, the same GKC and galvanized profiles are suitable.
4. The lack of "wet" building processes.Installation of drywall on profiles does not require mixing glue for GLC, which reduces the complexity of operations, time for their execution (no need to wait for the drying of the solution) and the amount of dust generated.
5. The possibility of insulation. The fake wall can also be laid a layer of heat-insulating material, which reduce the loss of heat energy through the fencing designs of the plumbing room.

Naturally, this method has the disadvantages, but they will not be insignificant and talk about them. Below will be described exactly the technology of alignment of walls with the help of GKK installed on the frame. But first take care of the necessary tools and materials.

Required tools and materials

To align the walls in the bathroom with GLCs, I personally need:

1. Plasterboard sheets. As I have already mentioned, the material of green is required, in the manufacture of which hydrophobic substances are used. It retains its technical characteristics regardless of indoor air humidity.
2. Galvanized profiles and guides. Required to design a frame. I do not recommend using wooden bars, as wood can rot in the bathroom, and it is difficult to find perfectly flat sawn timber.

1. Accessories for installing profiles. We are talking about P-shaped brackets, "crabs", dowel-nails, self-drawing, and so on. Self-tapping screws are needed, they are protected from corrosion.
2. Antiseptic for walls. Substance for sanitary processing of enclosing surfaces in the bathroom. This fungicide kills mold and fungus, and also warns his re-appearance under a false wall. Not bad formulations produced by Kompozit.

1. Putclone for plasterboard. It produces finishing alignment of the walls of GLC. In my case, this composition is needed only for the arrangement of seams, since the walls in the plumbing room will ultimately be lined with a cafeter.
2. Sherryanka. Fiberglass tape required for reinforcement of seams between adjacent sheets of drywall.
3. Glue for tile, grouting for seams. These materials are needed for the installation of the tile. However, you can use other decorative materials (paint, wallpaper, and so on). Then, of course, you will not need glue for ceramics.

It will take another bunch of other important trifles and, of course, the tools. But I will tell about them in the process of describing technology.

Montage sequence

The process of alignment of walls in the bathroom with HCL consists of several steps, which are shown in the diagram below:

However, each of these stages consists of several consecutive actions. Therefore, without unnecessary delays proceed.

Stage 1 - Preparation of surfaces

First, as in all other cases, you need to prepare a bathroom to work. I act according to the following scheme:

1. I perform dismantling of sanitary devices and decorative finishes. It is necessary to remove the bath, washbasin from the room, and all the furniture, as well as knock down the tile (tile).
   • To dismantle the ceramic tiles, I use a perforator that removes not only the facing, but also the glue. This significantly facilitates the subsequent work, since the lumps of frozen adhesive do not give normally to fix the brackets.
   • If the walls were painted or saved with wallpaper, they are easy to be written with a spatula. It is not necessary to remove the paint to the base, it does not prevent the work. It is enough to get rid of the detached sites.

1. I repair the wall.As I said, it is not necessary to count carefully. The main thing is to eliminate obvious cracks and recesses, especially if the wall is enclosing (contacting the street), not internal.
   • Small cracks can be sealed with polyurethane mounting foam. To do this, remove the cracked concrete or pieces of bricks along the edges of the crack, and then fill the deepening from the mounting gun. After drying, the foam of its edge is trimmed with a closure with a surface.

• All the protruding parts of the parts of the reinforcement should be sealing with a solution so that they do not be corrosion (after all, the humidity in the bathroom is increased). To do this, they need to thoroughly clean from the traces of corrosion, to mark the rust converter and after drying the latter to close with cement mortar (not plaster).

1. I establish engineering communications. In my case, you needed to make a new water supply and sewage, as well as bring electricity to the fan, washing machine and the lighting of the mirror. There are several features that I would like to say:
   • Sewer is better to mount using sealant for maximum seal. And check its performance before the firmware is plasterboard. It is better, in general, design a drain system so that free access is provided to it during operation for periodic control, washing and fixing.

• Water pipes are better soldered from polypropylene pipes using couplings. In this case, you will receive hermetic junctions that do not form flow during operation.
• Electrical cables should be placed in rigid or flexible cable PVC channels that protect the bathroom from the fire in the event of a short circuit.

1. I perform antiseptic processing of walls.I use for this an antiseptic for mineral surfaces, which mentioned in the appropriate section. It is especially important to do this in an old house, where fungus and mold could have already been formed on the walls. Fungicide will destroy the microorganisms and will not give them to appear again.

1. I perform the marking of the surfaces. I do it on the ceiling and walls so that then you can fix the guide profiles, and on them are carriers. As a result, it turns out a flat wall with angles equal to 90 degrees. The scheme is approximately as follows:
   • On the wall is the most protruding place, after which it is measured from a certain distance (about 3-5 cm), after which the line or level is carried out on the ceiling, parallel to the wall.

• Then with the help of the square, and later the rules are carried out on the ceiling along the adjacent walls.
• After that, the same distance is measured from the first line (depends on the length or width of the bathroom) and serfs are made on the lines along the adjacent walls.
• On these serifs, the last line has the opposite one along which the first line was carried out.
• Control is carried out: the distance between the opposite lines should be the same (that is, the correct square or rectangle should be obtained). Additionally, you can measure the diagonal. They should also be the same (that's when geometry was useful).
• Then with a plumb (ropes with cargo) or laser level, the entire ceiling square is transferred to the floor. So it turns out to be easily and quickly performing a markup, which will serve as a reference point for the installation of the crate.

After the markup is completed, you can move to the installation of the crate, which is necessary for fixing the plasterboard sheets.

Stage 2 - Mounting frame

For a frame, I will use galvanized profiles. They have the same size (in contrast to wooden bars, the geometry of which depends on the quality of processing) and better tolerate the operation in the wet air of the bathroom.

I act according to the following scheme:

1. By perimeter, I nail the guide profile for the frame.We are talking about UD items of 27 per 28 mm. I will whip them with a dowel-nail into the holes done by the perforator. Scheme such:
   • Profile Apply to the markup on the ceiling after which drill the hole directly through it. Its depth depends on the fasteners used and is controlled using the perforator line.

• Insert a dowel "quick installation" (in my case, a diameter is 6 mm, a length is 60 mm), after which I clog them with a hammer. The distance between adjacent dowels should be no more than 50 cm.
• If the lengths of the UD profile lacks, you can connect two parts by putting them in each other. In this case, the connection must be configured to drive an additional fastening dowel with a wide hat.
• On the sidewalls, the walls are also installed guide profiles that connect the ceiling and floor items.
• If in some place the wall block bulges from the surface and interferes with the profile installation, the latter can be a little bit and adjusted. It is not necessary to increase the thickness of the false wall because of this, since the bathroom and so the room is not too spacious.

1. I install carrier profiles (CD-parts).The scheme is as follows:
   • Cutting the carrier profiles in such a way that the detail length is 1 cm less than the floor from the floor to the ceiling. This can be done with metal scissors.
   • If the distance is greater than the length of the profile, the latter needs to be increasing. For this purpose, the details are invested each other at a distance of about 20 cm, after which they are twisted with small self-draws - "clouds".
   • The detail of the desired length is inserted into the guide profiles, after which it is leveling vertically (the product should be strictly vertically, if you apply the level to the side edge) and fixes with the self-draws.

• The distance between adjacent details, according to the current standards, should not exceed the width of the sheet of plasterboard. But I always mount the frame so that the pitch of the carrier profiles was 40 cm.

1. Fixing the guide profiles of P-shaped perforated brackets ("Pashchi").The sequence of action is:
   • The profile starts a smooth bracket, after which one part of it bends at an angle of 90 degrees, pressed against the CD-part and fixes on the wall using a dowel-nail.

• After that, the hole is drilled and a dowel-nail is driven into the hole of the bracket on the other side. The second petal "Pashki" is being flexed, concluding a carrying profile into a kind of "embrace".
• Typically, the brackets must stand with smooth rows at a distance of about 60-70 cm from each other. However, from this rule may be exceptions in cases where the installation interferes with some elements of the enclosing wall. In this case, the "Pashp" displacement is allowed in one direction or the other.

1. Perform the alignment of CD profiles in the vertical plane.To do this, need a thread. It is necessary to act in such a sequence:
   • Two opposite guides of the profile at the same height (approximately in the middle of the wall) screwed up the tapping screws, which then stretches the caprochy thread so that the latter does not savage, it does not touch the wires and brackets. In the photo below the thread is visible between two parallel blue lines.

• Beaching profiles should not touch the threads. Therefore, they need to be pressed against the wall (bend a little), after which it is possible to fix in that position in this position by inserting the screws into the appropriate holes "Pashk". Even the edge of the galvanized part should not be close to the thread, as it can prevent alignment.
• Then, with each profile and with each bracket, such an operation is carried out:

• from Pashki, self-tapping screws, who held the profile;
• after which the latter is aligned on the thread so as to be close, but do not touch it;
• self-fleback screws are screwed into profile through perforation of the bracket;
• self-tapping screws are screwed from both sides of the profile;
• after screwing each self-train, you need to check that the profile does not concern the thread, but is about a distance of 1 mm from it.

• After that edge of the brackets bend, so as not to interfere with further work.
• In the same way, the fastening of all rows of "Pashk" is made. Threads need to mix and install it near the part of the profiles that are now attached.
• At the end, the quality of work can be checked long aluminum rule.

1. I perform the installation of transverse hardness elements.To do this, you will need all the same carriers of CD profiles. I tell how to do:
   • First, from profiles you need to make a transverse 40-cm details, the ends of which are made in the form of the tongues, as shown in the photos below.

• They are attached to vertical elements using selflessness.
• The essence of this operation is that the whole sheet of plasterboard (250 mm in length) in the case described is not enough to sew the entire wall. Therefore, you have to make pieces. And the transverse element must be located on the junction and the whole sheet. In my case, it turned out the following picture.

Stage 3 - Frame Cocking Plasterton

So, proceed to the trim. Immediately I will say that on some photos shows no moisture-resistant plasterboard, but the technology does not change from this. But you should only apply the green material in the bathroom.

The same scheme is as follows:

1. Intim the sheets of plasterboard on the wall. In this case, you need an assistant, as at the same time and hold 25-kg sheet on the wall, and turn the screws is not very convenient. I act like this:
   • Neighboring sheets of plasterboard laying vertically and in a checker order so that a solid horizontal seam is formed on the wall, in which a crack may later appear.

• Between two adjacent details there should be a deformation seam (lumen) of a few millimeters width. It is needed to compensate for the possible change in the size of the material during operation.

• Plasterboard is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws. They screw in all areas where there are profiles at a distance of about 40 cm apart. All sections of sheets should be based on metal guides. As a result, this surface should turn out.

• When screwing out, self-sufficiently make it so that its hat is recessed into the surface of the drywall, but did not break through the paper layer protecting the gypsum.

1. Primary seams of drywall.To do this, you need a putty, which can be operated on the surface of the GLC and the reinforcing serpentine ribbon. The essence is as follows:
   • Seam between the seams of gypsum coopers are plated.
   • The reinforcing tape is glued on top.
   • Then, a small amount of putty is applied on top of it, which rolls over the surface.

Stage 4 - Tile Laying

The last stage of work is the cladding of the walls with ceramic tiles (or other material according to your choice). I have repeatedly described this process in the articles on this site, so I will not repeat here.

Those who wish will find all the information you are interested in in my blog independently. I will tell you better about the options for solving one of the common problems. But about it below.

Sealing gap at the wall

After the end of the alignment and decorative design of surfaces and installation of sanitary devices, many have a question of how to close the distance between the bathroom and the wall.

I can say that with the correct calculations and accurate observance of the installation technology, the sealing of the bath with the wall is practically not required. There is enough just to pour a small amount of sealant. But there are cases when everything is not quite smooth.

The gap between the bathroom and the wall can be formed in the following, rather non-discovered, cases:

• the dimensions of the installed bathroom (which bought after the end of the finish) are not suitable for the size of the plumbing room;
• the geometry of the bath does not correspond to the specified parameters and its adjacent angles do not form 90 degrees;
• when installing GLC, you are mistaken and not quite correctly performed marking, with the result that the inner corner of the bathroom is not equal to 90 degrees.

In order to initially do not create such a problem, it is better to put the tile after installing the bath. Then the edge of the tile will rely on the plumbing device and the gap will not be. Otherwise, the question of how to close the hole between the bathroom and the wall, is solved depending on its size:

1. In the case when the distance does not exceed 10 mminsulation can be made with a corner for masonry tile (outdoor), which is glued to the sanitary sealant of white:
   • It is necessary to prepare the detail of the desired size, cutting off the ends of the corner at an angle of 45 degrees.
   • Pour the sealant into the gap between the bathroom and the cafealty so that the composition completely filled this gap.
   • Apply strips sealant on tile and bath. They are needed for gluing a corner.
   • Press the item to the wall so that the excess of the sealing composition is extruded out.
   • Remove the sealant with a vet. It is necessary to do this as quickly as possible so that the material is not polymerized.
   • If your bath is acrylic (its deformation is possible during the use process), then before gluing you need to fill it with water and leave it to completely dry the sealant (it takes about 12 hours).

1. How to make an adjuncing bath to the wall, if the width of the gap is from 10 to 30 mm:
   • It is important to determine how to close the space, because the maximum width of the tile corner is not more than 12 mm, that is, it simply falls down, and not stick. Therefore, it will have to replace the plinth or border.
   • Fill the slot silicone will not fail, so it is necessary to very carefully seal the places of gluing the parts to the tile and the bathroom.
   • To increase the reliability of gluing the surface before applying the sealant, I recommend degrees with alcohol-containing composition.
   • The border is a self-adhesive tape, which must first be glued to the wall, and then - to the bathroom (in the middle of the tape there is a removal that serves as the boundary of the inflection).

1. How to close the gap if its dimensions exceed 30 mm:
   • From the bottom of the gap under the bathroom, it is necessary to install a formwork that will not give a building a solution to frozen fall down.
   • The resulting recess must be filled with a mounting cement mortar.
   • On top of it after frozen, tile is stacked. If everything is done correctly, additionally decide how to seal this site, do not have to.

In principle, other technician materials can be used. The main thing is that they are hermetic and elastic (otherwise cracking in the process of bath deformation).