Features and technology finishing with lining of different types. How to work with the clapboard how to work with the wallpaper wooden

The lining is a popular finishing material, which is equivalent profiles with spikes and special grooves for durable mounting. It is made of wood or plastic, and has a smooth surface.

Recently, the lining has been widespread, because with its help you can shelter almost any surface, having achieved perfect smoothness. In addition, the material has a lot of other essential advantages:

Easy installation. To cope with the installation of this material, even the person who has no construction experience will be able to cope.
Low price. Compared with many other materials, it is inexpensive.
Ecology. Wooden lining is an environmentally friendly material that is made of wood with high decorative indicators. Throughout the service life, it retains the properties that inherent in the tree.
Natural beauty, pleasant smell.
Good performance characteristics.
Large choice in color and form. You can choose the lining to any room, whether it is a living room or a barn.
With this facing material, you can adjust the indoor moisture.

Mounting preparation

Before starting the installation of the lining, preparatory work should be carried out, which concern not only the preparation of walls, but also the material itself. Before use, the lining must be pulled and carefully check for any defects. After that, the lamellas are mandatory are processed by antiseptic and primer, which will protect the material from rotting and make it less fire hazardous.

You need to process all sides of the material, including the grooves. In case the lining is made of resin rocks, it may have to do its reference. To do this, it is necessary to apply acetone to the place of selection, and then wipe the surface.

If critical defects were found on some lamellaes, they should be postponed to. With minor defects, such as the resulting bitch, a small crack or pothole, damaged places are processed by a mask. It is very important that the lining before mounting "scored the temperature" of the room in which it will be attached. To do this, it is necessary for some time to put in this room. If it will be used for outdoor work, you don't need to do anything.

In addition to processing the material itself, it is necessary to prepare the surface on which it will be attached. The lining does not provide for preliminary alignment of walls with putty or plaster. It is only necessary to make and install a simple frame structure to which the lamellas will be attached. To create such a design, you can use conventional rectangular bars of 20 × 40 millimeters or 15 × 30 millimeters, depending on the curvature of the walls. It is important to remember that with the horizontal installation of the lining, the racks of the crates must be attached vertically. And with the vertical - horizontally.

Initially, the doomle is mounted around the perimeter of the surface and in the corners. At the same time, each corner should have two slats. After that, installation around the doors and windows, if there are on the surface that is trimmed. And after all this, intermediate rails are attached. It is extremely important to check the plumb and the level of all rails. The more accurate and the idleness will be exhibited, the easier and faster it will be installed on the molding. If you do not follow the level, then at the subsequent stages of work, this may lead to significant problems.

How and how to fix the lining

Before starting directly to install the lining, it is necessary to install insulation and waterproofing, as well as select the method of fastening the material. You can mount the lamella to the ceiling, wall and crate. What exactly is fixed, depending on, first of all, from the customer himself and its preferences. There are several possible options:

Nails. Nails firmly and reliably fix the lining to the crate. But, if the Eurolution can be knitting strictly perpendicularly, then the usual is recommended to score only at an angle, otherwise the material can split. At the same time, the length of the nail should be at least twice the thickness of the slave. Mounting with nails is recommended to be used if used used lining.
Samores. Basically, the self-tapping screws are used in the end-to-end mounting of the clap to the crate. They are quite rarely used with a secret attachment. Self-tapping screws are best for fastening if there is always a high level of humidity in the room.
Kleimers. Use kleimers in the event that in the future it is planned to carefully disassemble the lamella, without damaging them. They are also used with a secret attachment, making the mounted lining more aesthetic and neat.
Braces. This method of attachment requires a special construction stapler (pistol) capable of breaking thick wood. In addition, not all wood species can be poured using this tool. But the use of the bracket has its own advantages. With their help, you can very quickly make installation.
Combined method. This method of fastening implies the use of kleimers or nails and self-tapping screws for fastening the lamellas from below.

What kind of fastening method choose, depends on both certain factors and the preferences of the customer himself.

Horizontal Mounting Lining: Instruction

Horizontal installation of lining is the most simple. Finishing with lining horizontally allows you to hide all the flaws on the surface of the walls. This type of fastening is used mainly for the outer decoration of the building, while the lining is recommended to be attached to the grooves down so that the water does not register them, and over time the walls did not begin to swell in the joints of the slats.

Installation should be started from the corner. At the same time, special attention should be paid to the first lamella, because it will task the main direction of work. The smaller the first board will be fixed, the easier it will further occur the installation process. The first lamella is attached only from one end, after which the second side is set strictly horizontally using a level. Only when the board will be exhibited by level, you can fix it.

To the next board entered the groove, you will have to make a little effort. As a rule, it uses a rubber hammer. If it is not, then you can use the so-called picking (trimming lining). It is through a picking, so as not to damage the facial side of the material, you should gently apply shocks.

It rarely happens that the width of all the lamellae perfectly corresponds to the height of the wall. Most often have to make a trimming of the last boards along the entire length, and it is necessary to do it extremely gently, even if the edges are closed with decorative elements. To the wall look beautiful and aesthetically, it is better to use the screws to fasten the extreme lamelters, which can then be put on wooden plugs, or special finish nails without a hat.

Vertical Mounting Lining: Instruction

Vertical lining trim is the most common way of fastening. First of all, the vertical mount helps make the ceilings indoors visually above. Also, with this method of fastening the groin, the water is reliably protected from watering in them, which, in turn, has a positive effect on the service life of the material.

First, you should consolidate the upper board. Just as with a horizontal mount, it is very important to correctly set the first lamella. However, in this case, we are interested in her vertical. Therefore, only one edge of the board is fixed first, then the correct level is set, and after that the next lamella is mounted. This allows you to avoid skew. Otherwise, the installation is made in the same way as with a horizontal attachment method.

There are other attachment methods: a Christmas tree, diagonally combined. But they are quite complicated, therefore a person who does not have construction experience, to fulfill this installation will be extremely difficult.

You should know that not the whole lining allows you to choose a laying method. There are lamellas that are attached strictly horizontally. Therefore, before buying the wallboard, it is better to consult and find out if it is attached to any way or some particular one.

Installation of cladding on the ceiling

For mounting the clapboard on the ceiling first, naturally, you need to make a frame. It can be wooden or made of metal profile. To mount the frame, you need to find the lowest point on the ceiling and make it from it down to 5-7 centimeters. After that, from this point with the help of a water level, hesitate all the corners of the room. Further, on these points to buy the contour, which will be set to the frame.

When the frame will be made, you can start on the mounting of the lining. To do this, cut the bands need size. They should be about 5 millimeters less than the length of the room, it is necessary to leave a small clearance between the boards and the wall. This will help protect the ceiling from the unpleasant consequences of thermal expansion. If the walls are not perfectly in parallel, it is better to cut the lamellas in fact, because at different ends of their premises the length can be somewhat different.

In general, the installation of the clapboard on the ceiling is no different from the wall mount. The only thing to cope with him will be quite difficult, since it is uncomfortable to set the board under the right angle, while holding it and secure. Rather, everything, without an assistant, it will not be possible to do.

Cost of montage clapboard

The cost of the lining depends primarily from the material itself (plastic or wood, tree grade, production quality). To date, the price per square meter starts from 3-4 dollars and comes to 25-30 dollars. In addition, you should not forget that buy not only the lining itself, but also bars for crates, plinth, decorative elements and various consumables.

If we talk about the work itself, the good construction company will make the easiest installation of the lining on the straight walls for 3-4 dollars per square meter, without taking into account the installation of plinths, insulation, antiseptation and other additional work. However, the installation is not something difficult, so many people prefer to do it independently, while saving a lot of money. In general, the lining rightly is considered one of the best finishing materials in terms of price / quality ratio.

Features of montage clapboard

The main feature of the mounting of the wallboard is their hands in the competent payment of the first board. If it is not perfectly putting it, then all subsequent lamelles will be mounted crookedly, and in the future it will turn into large problems. To insure themselves to insure themselves from such trouble, mount the lining is recommended by kleimers. In the case of which they can be easily removed, disassembly, rearrange the lamella and re-fix them.

All are good modern materials from plastic: moisture is not afraid, additional processing do not require, the dimensions do not "walk", mount yourself easily and simply. Even if "swelling", you can buy the missing panel - they are all standard and cost inexpensively. But when it comes to the interior decoration of the residential premises, there are few rivals at the tree. In the room with walls, covered with wooden lining, comfortable, warm and homely cozy. Some choose plastic and drywall simply because they are not confident in their abilities. In fact, the installation of the lining with their own hands is available to everyone, only requires more thorough preparation.

Preparatory stage

At this stage, the basics of beauty and durability are laid (if you can express it) a wooden finishing coating. Consider it in detail.

The choice of materials is determined by the financial capabilities and aesthetic preferences of the host.

1. The Eurolution of the class "A", "B", and "Extra" differ in the number of bitch, processing quality and price. It is packed in packs, has standard dimensions (more or less) and a certain humidity. There is also a "wooden lining", which is done on a private sawmill. It is cheaper, but you can not talk about quality: it requires additional efforts to bring it into a presentable look.

2. The mounting of the planks can be performed by self-pressing, special galvanized nails, brackets (pistol) or using swipes. The first three ways do not leave the opportunity to remount the wall already collected, if necessary, correct errors or after drying. In addition, there is a chance to split the bar or damage to her hammer blows. Mounting on the kleimers and small self-tapping screws greatly facilitates the assembly and allows you to return at least to the beginning of work.

3. The cross section of bars for the frame under the lining can be 20x40 mm or 30x30mm. You can also use metalwear for plasterboard. Fasten the frame on the wall using self-tapping screws or. If additional insulation of the walls is assumed, the thickness of the bars increase the heat insulation layer, respectively.

4. The tree needs protection. Bruks are covered by makeup from rotting, fungi and antipirens. The lining itself is treated with versions, varnishes, rubbed waxed, paint and so on.

5. Decorative elements are necessary for hiding "sins": corners, platbands, docking plates and plinth cloth irregularities and give the finish a finished look.

Briefly about instruments

Installation of wooden lining does not require any special tools. Screwdriver, hacksaw (pubisik), square, roulette, level, the hammer today is in the farm from everyone. If you need to mount the framework for brick walls, you need drills on concrete and dowel.

Counting the number of materials

The amount of lining and consumables is determined after measuring the area of \u200b\u200ball surfaces to be finished and selecting the styling pattern.

Bruks are fixed on the wall "standing" or "lying" perpendicular to the position of the lining. When diagonal mounting, the bars are placed at an angle of 45 °. The distance between them is 50-60 cm, the floor and the ceiling fasten the bar throughout the perimeter. Windows and doors are also framed by frame.

Note!For clarity, apply the frame of the wall location on the wall: this will help avoid errors in counting

The lining is produced in different lengths from 1 m to 3 m, the width can also change a little particular from "private traders". Therefore, first read the assortment at the building materials store, the size you need may not be available. If the store provides a service for calculating materials - use it and compare with your results.

Do not forget to add 10% for unforeseen waste.

Kleimers consumption - 20-25 pcs. on square. m lining. They are sold packs, so piece counts do not make sense. Each kleimer requires a pair of galvanized screws.

Helpful advice:In the house from a bar or logs, fasten the bars using drywall suspensions. Such a mount is moving more moving and during the shrinkage of the walls does not deform the lining.

Mounting a frame for a diagonal or more complex laying of the lining is performed according to the location of the planks. Please note that with this method, the consumption of materials is greater, and many unacted joints appear. They require a very accurate, neat cut.

Installation of lining on the frame

Horizontal fastening of wooden lining can be started from the floor or from the ceiling. If you start from the floor, then the bar is groaning up. This position does not matter much in a dry clean room. When the bath is trimmed or at home, it is unacceptable: water, dust, dirt can get into the groove, and no protection will help: the tree hesitates. Therefore, in such conditions, the lining starts to be attached to the ceiling with a groove down.

The first bar is labeled strictly in terms of the level - it depends on the course of further installation. With standard sizes, it will only be possible to periodically check the horizontality. The bar is naked with galvanized nails right through the "body" of the boards to the bars, choosing a place where the caps will close the corner or plinth. Additionally attach kleimers.
The second bar is inserted into the groove first until it stops, if necessary, tap the hammer slightly. In order not to damage the edges, it is used by a segment of lining 15-20 cm. It is inserted into the groove of the board and the hammer is knocking on it.

On each bar in the molding groove insert a kleimer, screws screws and then the process is repeated to the last plan. It is customized with circular saw or jigsaw to the required width and fasten with nails.

Do not forget to process fresh sections so that they do not differ in color.

Decorative elements can not be fixed. Perhaps after a while it turns out that the lining still bored and began to go out of the grooves. If this is very noticeable, you will have to do all the work again: to disassemble, compact and collect again. By the way, it will be necessary for the stock plank.

After that, you can fix all corners, plinth and lacquer.

The result of proper preparation and accurate installation will be aesthetic pleasure and pleasure from the work done. Do not forget only that the tree requires care. Periodically purify from dust, do not allow excess moisture from entering. If necessary, update the lacquer coating.

One of the functional and rapid ways to finish the internal interior is cladding cladding. Especially organic ceiling and walls, covered with wooden lamellas, fit into the inner space of the log house or bath. Making the molding with your own hands is not too complicated.

Having minimal competition skills with construction tools, as well as possessing the share of patience, everything can be done. The clamping technology does not require the use of complex devices, and the installation, made independently, significantly reduces the final finish cost. The price for work is from 30 to 50% of the value of the material, so it is most reasonable and economically to cope with their own.

Methods of fastening

Installation of lining, whether plastic, MDF or wood panels, begins with the installation of the bearing frame structure. Most often it is made of wooden plates with the necessary thickness. Such technology allows you to:

posted by a decomposed plane is an exceptionally smooth surface;
provide natural ventilation between the wall and the trim;
hide communications;
to lay an additional layer of thermal insulation.

The step between the rails is 40-60 cm. Even before the construction of the crates, it is necessary to determine the direction of the cladding, since the carrier frameworks of the frame must be placed perpendicular to the boards. That is, if it is supposed to lay the lining horizontally, the parts of the carrier structure should be vertically, and vice versa.

When finishing internal premises, the direction of installation of the boards does not play a big role. However, it should be remembered that the lamellas, the installation of which is designed horizontally, visually expand the room. The lining laid vertically, visually lifts the ceiling.

Much more important is the location of the trim in the bath. The fact is that in the steam room the temperature applies disproportionately - the hottest air rises under the ceiling, while the cooled pairs with high moisture is lowered down. Thus, adverse conditions for wooden structures are created.

If the lining in the bath is placed vertically, each of the boards warms up unevenly. When repeatedly heating and cooling different sections, deformation will definitely come. In addition, in the lower part adjacent to the floor, the foci of rotting wheels is often awesome. Moreover, it will concern all the elements that are installed vertically.

Unlike vertical installation, the planks located horizontally are in about the same temperature and humidity conditions, so the indicators will be identical along the entire length. In this case, the risk of bends becomes minimal, since the elements of the skin are experiencing the same loads. The exception is one or two lower rows adjacent to the floor. The advantage of mounting, made horizontally, is the rapid replacement of damaged lamellae.

Instruction step by step

Horizontal installation of wooden lining is made from the ceiling to the floor, and the grooves must be directed down. This is necessary so that dust and moisture do not fall into the connection site. Vertical wall covering starts from the corner. The technology itself is quite simple, a step-by-step instruction includes three main stages:

1. Preparation of material and base.

Initially, wooden parts must pass acclimatization, so they must be taken into the premises taken and leave for 2-3 days. After that, the boards on both sides are desirable to treat special compositions extending the life of wood. The ceiling or walls on which the molding will be made are cleaned from the garbage, additional communications are laid, places for switches and sockets.

2. Placing a frame.

Frame planks are selected, based on the curvature of the walls. If the decoration plane is smooth, you can use thin rails. The set details are measured by the construction level and plumb. Over the perimeter of window and door openings, additional support plates are fixed for mounting. In one row between the bars, leaving the gap for the natural circulation of air. When laying insulation, the shaft step must correspond to the width of insulating materials. A small indent is left from the ceiling and gender so that it is more convenient to fix the trim.

3. Installation of lining.

Installation of wooden boards can be made in several methods: with nails or self-tapping, as well as using special fasteners - kleimer. In the first case, the nail is driven into the element adjacent to the wall at an angle of 45º. Hats or bite, or nails clogged flush so as not to interfere with the location of the castle of the next lamella. The cost of traditional fasteners is not too high, but there is a high probability of chipping and cracking of the grooves.

The price of Kleimer is a little more, but this installation option gives the highest quality and durable clutch. In addition, the installation of lining on the kleimers allows you to quickly produce reconstruction or replacement without damage. The protruding part of the clamp is started in the groove of the carriage, and the flat base is screwed or targeted by a construction stapler to the brush of the crate.

Main nuances and frequent mistakes

The main feature of natural wood is small fluctuations in dimensions with temperature and humidity drops. By performing installation work yourself, some masters forget about this fact. When creating any wooden structures between the walls and the trim, it is necessary to leave a compensation clearance of 1.5-2 cm. Incorrect installation becomes a consequence of the protrusion or deflection of the lamellas. The squeezing of boards may occur in the non-compliance with the right technology or unreliable fixation of the material. To avoid problems, it is recommended to reduce the step between frame racks to increase the number of fasteners.

Sometimes, in order to reduce the cost of finishing, deliberately refuse special antibacterial and flame impregnations. However, these funds significantly prolong the service life, and their price is much less than new repairs. An excellent effect also has the subsequent treatment of wood with varnish or natural oil.

Another common mistake when installing is insufficient ventilation of the space that is behind the clap, which leads to the rapid formation of rot and mold. In order to increase the air flow, the additional holes are obtained in the lower and top of the walls.

Fixing features

Wooden lining is preferably used in the bath, on the balcony, in the attic or residential room. To finish other rooms with a high level of humidity, it is better to take plastic panels. In addition, the cost of wood with a lining of large areas forces more profitable options. The price of similar materials from PVC is much smaller. Best of all such lining is suitable for the ceiling, as it is rather fragile and can collapse when hitting.

Installation of plastic lining has the same technology as the installation of a wooden trim. The only difference is the use of the starting strip or L-shaped profile, which inserts the protruding part of the first lamella. So that the finish look perfectly, all frame elements should be recorded in terms of the level, and the shaft step should not exceed 45 cm. Each subsequent plank is fixed by the stapler or solemnosis from the groove side.

Rates for facing

The cost of mounting is made up of several components. The price has an impact:

the quality of the processed plane, as the placement of the crate on uneven walls requires additional time;
type of surface. The process of cladding the ceiling is more laborious;
services such as antiseptic processing or dismantling of an old coating.

The price per m2 of the installation of wooden lining fluctuates ranging from 350 to 550 rubles, plastic - 220-250. The cost of comprehensive works, including the installation of the crate, the insulating layer and the decor in the form of plinths and the corners, will be much more expensive, about 1000-1200 rubles.

Today it is fashionable to replace elements of plastic finishes with wooden options, which gives the dwelling and warmth. Wall sheat technology is known for a long time, but remains relevant yet. Today we will deal with whether the walls of the walls are difficult with their own hands, and whether it is possible to carry out it without any assistance.

What nuances should consider when working with clapboard

Walking is a board of different thickness, which is made from different wood species. This material was obtained due to the place where it was first applied. These are cars in trains, the inner walls in which were trimmed with small slats from the tree. Today it is fashionable to sow walls in a bath with clapboard, as well as in a sauna, or a gazebo.

It is necessary to take into account that the decoration of the walls by the clappers itself requires a detailed, weighted approach. Pay attention to the following details:

Packed boards should be stored on the substrate in a horizontal position.
The humidity of the storage room should be within the normal range.
You can not allow storage when straight sun rays are directed on the packaging.
It is important to pay attention to the expiration date indicated on the package.

The cost of 1M2 distortion from the linden, which perfectly transfers the drops of temperature and high humidity, costs 500 rubles, and to trim the wall in the country in the main rooms, it is possible to meet at a smaller amount - 300 rubles per m2. Important! The price of the material directly depends on the quality of wood.

On a note! The walls for the walls are bought with a margin, which is equal to ten per cent of the total area. It must be remembered that the width of each element is measured in the inner depth, so you need to subtract 10-12 mm groove depth.

Processing material clapboard

After the purchase, the question becomes how to sheathe the walls of the wall independently so that the coating is wear-resistant and beautiful? The priority task is the right pre-processing, because the manufacturer does not conduct any manipulations with the tree. It is necessary to make the following actions:

Cable products need degreasing. To do this, rinse the board with a 25% acetone solution. After that, wipe with a cloth moistened in water and dry.

All, even the most minor, damage should be sealing with a spacing mixture for wood. It can be bought in any construction store.

If you need to change the shade, you can use the veil, or other professional impregnations that will save a beautiful tree texture.

What you need to prepare walls under the lining

There are two main options of how to make a wall with clapboard: adhesive and skeleton. Note that the first will require you to have a perfectly smooth surface. That is why the second method is preferable, which involves the construction of the crate. Among the advantages of this method are the creation of an additional space for insulation of the room.

In order to secure the wall paneling on the wall, you need:

Instruments. In this particular case, a drill with different nozzles should be prepared, a plumb (level), pliers, a hammer, a manual saw or an electrolovka.
Rake to build a frame. For these purposes, one-piece wooden bars with a cross section of 30 * 60 mm are suitable. At the same stage, substrates used to equalize surfaces are preparing.
Fasteners: dowels, self-tapping screws, nails, kleimers, if needed, suspensions for the frame.

Important! Even if the frame mounting method is used, preliminary preparation of working surfaces is required. The procedure is simple, lies in the fact that all decorative elements from the wall are removed, and defects are wiping. After that, additional primer is carried out.

How to create a crate for fasteners

Prepare walls under the lining - the most scrupulous process. You will have to tinker with the creation of a special design. General recommendations:

Treat the bar with refractory impregnation and antifungal agents.
Watch that the rails are located strictly perpendicular to the decorative boards.

Between the spears it is necessary to observe a single distance, the step of which is 40-50 cm.

It is necessary to leave the distance between the floor and the ceiling. This recommendation is particularly relevant for wooden houses that are constantly subject to the shrinkage process.
Extinity in the frame setting is subject to careful check, for this it is used with plumbing and level.

If the space is formed between the rail and the wall, it needs to be filled with prepared dies.

Important! The construction of the crate makes it possible to equip the walls with an additional insulation layer. The insulation is fixed between the resulting racks.

What option to choose?

It is important to determine the method of fixing board materials. You can see the wall in several methods:

Through the type of fasteners. This is the easiest solution that does not require much effort. The meaning is that the self-tapping screws are screwed directly through the front side. This method involves applying markup so that the fasteners are located on the same line. In addition, on the carriage board, holes that will not allow the tree to be cracked and cracking in advance. When screwing into screws, make sure that their caps are completely recessed into the wood. To achieve this simply, if in advance to drill the place under the Hat with a Big Caliber Drill. The formed holes are masked by special chip caps or rubbing to putty. Of the disadvantages, this method significantly disrupts the external aesthetic attractiveness of the coating.

Fastening the wallboard to the wall can be carried out with the help of decorative carnations. They are initially decorated with the color of the material.

An excellent option will be secret cloves without hats. A feature is that it is possible to score such nails only at an angle of 80 degrees. This will give the opportunity to hide those areas that were violated.
If you have a professional staplers in the farm, you can use brackets for fasteners.

Important! Do not buy a hand tool to drive the bracket, which is sold at every corner, since its use does not provide reliable fixation.

With the smallest thickness of the carriage board, kleimers are used. The main advantage is that fasteners are invisible.

Method, how to mount the lining to the wall, is selected individually, based on the specific situation. But we note that more than recently, the most popular is precisely kleimers.

The process of fastening the clapboard

Before sowing the walls, the material is entered into the room and leave for two days. This manipulation is extremely necessary that the tree is fully acclimatized.

Important! If you hurry and skip this stage, then the likelihood is that the design is becoming.

All work must be made at the plus air temperatures, and the optimal humidity of at least 60%.

Essence of technology:

Most often, the laying is carried out in a horizontal position, so install the first bar at the bottom so that its plump (groove) watches up.
As in the wallpaper pasting, fixation should be started from the corner, which is away from the entrance to the room.

Pretty check the board level, given the horizontal and vertical surface.
The first board is attached, and the rest after that are felt, and then fixed by whimmers. Be careful with the first and last elements, it is better to fix them on the screws.

After graduation, it is necessary to decorate the walls by plinths and corners, and you can paint the walls of the wallboard with a mourn or lacker surface.

The presence of experience guarantees the completion of finishing works per day, even including the installation of the frame. Natural materials will give the room comfort and warmth, will serve for a long time, and save beauty.

Video: installation of lining with their own hands

This stage is only needed if wooden lining is used (). Then before you start working with the material, you need to give it to stand in the room at least a day - the tree should dry and purchase a room temperature. Only after that you can chop the lining of the desired length. If such a time is not withstanding, then the boards may lie to each other.

For this purpose, take a film from polyethylene, foil or rubberoid. The installation of this material goes on the rails that need to be tied up to the wall. The width of the rails takes less than 3 cm, and nailed to the wall in increments of 1 meter. Below and at the top of the vapor insulation break through small holes to improve ventilation.

Important! This stage is not strictly mandatory, but it is extremely desirable for premises subject to the influence of high humidity from the street.

How to make a crate under the lining

Reiki with a cross section of 20 × 40 mm with a screwdriver mounted in a step of 40-50 cm horizontally, regularly checking whether they are installed correctly. The use of rail allows you to align the wall (so that it is convenient to fit the boards), as well as make a gap between the wall and the wallpaper, which is needed to create ventilation.

If the wall is uneven, then under the crate you have to put something to put something (or take the crate of greater thickness). As a lining, a mounting wedge is usually taken, a piece of wooden bars or a fane. The lamp is fixed with a long-length dowel-nail dowel. The lower rail will be part of the floor by 5 cm, since the floor will be attached at the bottom, and the top is as much from the ceiling.

Installation of the crate should also be produced around the openings, window and door. It is worth noting that the crates are plastic and metal. Learn more about the installation of the crates can be viewed here:

Combining crates and vaporizolation

If vaporizolation is not used, the installation of the crate is carried out directly to the wall.

If it was used, then the fastening of the crates of the crate depends on the exactly how the vaporizolation was attracted: if the rails, on which the vapor barrier was mounted, were vertically fixed, then the races of the crates should be attached horizontally and vice versa. Fastening the crate to the rails, on which vaporizolation is carried out with the help of long screws.

In the resulting space stacked insulation. Mineral wool is usually taken as insulation. In order for the insulation with time, it is desirable to be installed under the influence of moisture, it is desirable to fix with polypropylene twine, which is usually fixed using a construction stapler to wooden slats.

On top of the insulation, you can also install another layer of vapor barrier, which should be attached by the rough side to the insulation. It is not necessary to do this, but it is extremely desirable for the room, the walls of which can be affected by moisture. Sometimes (especially when wearing the outer part of the buildings) from the above of the insulation is another doomle.

The lamp should be placed around the window and doorways. You can also use a plastic or metal crate.

Tip! If the room will be quite warm, then the installation of the insulation is optional. When using MDF or plastic lining, the insulation is often not taken at all, communications is placed in the space between the crate and the clapboard.

Installation of the first wooden lining

The mounting of the first lining to the wall is carried out from the angle of the room vertically: at the beginning there is a hole with a thin drill, and then fixed with self-drawing all over.

Info! If the Wooden Lining Block is attached, the installation of the first lining begins on top of the room horizontally, and such a lining should constantly evenly be at a strained line or a horizontal level.

If plastic lining is mounted, then the mounting of the first lining is carried out in conjunction with the molding (plastic rail).

It is worth noting that plastic PVC lining from all known PVC panels is distinguished by the lack of seam when connected (PVC panels are sometimes called seamless polymer clapboard). Therefore, PVC lining to the wall is attached almost just like the PVC panels, except that each plastic piece is attached to the stapler to the crate.

Methods of fastening and how to mount the lining

There are several options for how to lock the lining properly: with kleimers, screws or nails. The best option (for more than a long and expensive) is the installation with kleimers. Since in this case the surface of the lining does not deteriorate, and, if necessary, it can be dismantled without damage.

How to mount the lining on the kleimers

In the grooves of the installed lining the kleimer is installed. It moves with the help of a hammer in the lining groove and then nails are clogged into the kleimer holes.

Such a beam fastening is strong enough. The installation of the next will be implemented in the same way: in the groove of the molding, the new one is inserted, it is neatly clogged with a hammer (so that there are no lumen between the boards) and again fastened by cracks.

How to navigate the lining with nails or self-drawing

The method of fastening with nails or screws, unlike the previous one, "traumes" the material.

Bringing the wall paneling with the help of finish nails (with a small hat) can go with the front part of the board on the oblique from the longitudinal tongue (but not in the middle, otherwise you can go cracking).

This method has one more minus - nails or self-tapping screws will be visible on the front surface.

You can nail the crest of the lining board, if it goes with a displaced profile. In this case, each next board will cover the place of attachment and it will not be visible.

Important! Check regularly using a level, smoothly installed lining. No need to customize the boards very tightly to each other, otherwise they can wake up when moisture gets and move away from the wall.

Installation of fittings

After the lining is installed, you need to close the edges. This is best suited by a plinth or cartoon. Fastening to the wall of this element is carried out using small nails.

If plastic lining was used, the accessories sits on the glue.

Processing the surface of the lining

This stage applies only to wooden lining as it should be covered by a special composition that protects against insects and moisture. For this, antiseptics are used, biolalecting formulations and sometimes use anti-epires - a composition that reduces the likelihood of ignition. With the help of the coating, you can give various shades (for this use varnish), and it must be updated every few years.

Features of fastening the clapboard on the ceiling

If the framework on which the lining will be attached will be wooden, then the creation of such a frame is practically the same as crates on the wall. In this case, you can make a distance between the slacks of such a frame to do a little more.

If the frame will be metallic, then instead of the crate, a more complex suspension system will be used to which the guide profile will be attached. The maximum weight of the design of such a ceiling in this case can be increased by a large number of suspensions.

As you have already seen, the installation of the lining with your own hands is a completely saturated task with which it can cope with competent preparation and our step-by-step instructions each. In the end of the review, see the video. Good luck!

Differences Lining from Eurooval

Euromagle is distinguished by the best quality of wood
Has a more class profile
Euromagle has a deeper puzzle fastening
Has ventilation channels
More expensive clapboard

The process itself, how to fix the eurvagon, does not differ from the sheaving by the usual clapboard, it is equal to the euro of the tilt to the humidity of the board and the quality of surface treatment above, so pay special attention to this.

How to mount the lining video

Wall trimming trunks

Installation of plastic lining with your own hands - video

How to fix the clapboard in the bath

The decoration of walls with clap is possible as standard in a wooden house, in a regular apartment, on the balcony, as well as in the bath. Cleaning wrappers, this is perhaps the best and most affordable solution. Installation clap in the bath has its own distinctive features. It is best for the steam room, ash, oak, birch, ox, pine, spruce, cedar or larch. Before sheeling with a clapboard, it is necessary to process it with special antifungal agents (antiseptics) twice.

The process of fastening the wall paneling on the walls and the ceiling of the bath does not differ from the standard, you can navigate the lining on the nails or the self-tapping screw, to be attached to kleimers.

Important! The lining after laying in the bath can not be covered with varnishes and paints.

Useful tips on laying lining in the steam room you will find in this video: