Repairs Design Furniture

How to make a partition in the bath between the steam room. Partition in the bath between the steam room and washing. Features of the glass partition

The partition in the bath between the parillery and sink should be paid to special attention, since it (partition) shares such different in terms of the functionality of the room. This partition can be made of bricks, boards, timber, and even foam blocks. The choice of one or another material depends, above all, from which the bath is built. If it is a cut-down or frame design, it is better to use a tree so as not to break the overall concept, and the brick is more suitable for the brick bath.

Partition in the bath between the parillery and washing (wooden version)

In addition, the type of heating device located in the steam room is also important. If we are talking about a traditional brick furnace, then it is already in itself the partition. In this case, it is necessary to simply report it to the formation of a full wall. In the case of an iron furnace (this option is preferable), the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for the purpose of fireproof. Here the partition can be frame, and from ordinary boards.

In the photo - brick oven and brick partition


On a note! For a brick partition, it is recommended to use a red brick, and not silicate (the fact is that the latter is unfulfilled, which is characterized by sufficiently low indicators of thermal insulation and moisture resistance).

The design described below is a wooden frame, a clapped and warmed by the mining.



Constructive features

Constructive featuresPhoto
The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, the height of which will be 10 cm, and the width is 12.5 cm. The curb is necessary not only for hardening the design, but also to put a tile on it at the end of work, which will be a tree from water.

This threshold can be built as when pouring a screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), and directly during the installation, the formwork from the board. For better adhesion with concrete, the wall of the formwork must be covered with deep primer and betokontact (for example, the production of Knauf).

The base will be attached to the border by anchors (1.6 cm). The extreme racks will be inserted into specially done grooves in the walls and fastened with hexagon screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the racks themselves are oval and longitudinal - so the frame will not be an obstacle to the sediment of a church. Screws in this case will slide with the walls, no excessive load on the frame, as well as the design as a whole, will not.

The upper horizontal frame of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the gap, the expansion or sediment of a loggment will be compensated for atmospheric phenomena. Therefore, the vertical grooves in the walls are performed all over the floor - from the floor to the ceiling.

For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use Minvatu with a thickness of 10 cm. The dimensions of the individual cells of the future design are 120x60 cm and correspond to the standard dimensions of the insulation slabs. On both sides, cotton should be closed with a plastic film and secure the assembly stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, will save the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material.

The lining will be enshrined by kleimers on the crate made of 2,5x5 cm splines. The crate itself needs to be mounted on top of the film and fix on the frame using the tree screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the design using the technology of "spike in the groove". From the parillers, the lower bar of the crate is attached to the floor, and from the sink fit into the curb and fixes only to vertical supports.

After mounting the door frame, the final finish is performed. Initially, it is necessary to install plinths (one end should be taken in the wall grooves), then the edges of the design overlap with platbands (the latter also need to be started in the grooves).

The platband in the upper part of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only if he is shifted to it, without affecting the wall itself. The clearance formed between the design and the ceiling must be embedded with cotton or any other thermal insulating material.

Elements of wood will be combined with galvanized screws. You can also use screws for connecting open elements. To "hide" the screws of screws, in the appropriate places should be done in advance of the stepped holes; When all the self-screws are screwed, they will need to close with wooden pins of the desired size.

The first stage. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of action should be as follows.

Step 1. In the opposite walls, the grooves whose chainsaws must be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific ceiling height, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 2.. Next, you need to establish a formwork to create a base for construction, while taken into account by the doorway (94 cm). If the sink floor is covered with concrete, then the formwork should be installed along the edge of the screed.

Step 3. The surface of the floor in the formwork must be treated with a betokontax and deep primer. To ensure that the bundle was more reliable, you can also screw holes inside the formwork in a step of about 20 cm, score a dowel there and screw screws to ½.

Step 4. After that, the formwork needs to fill with concrete. When concrete freezes, it needs to be covered with a rubberoid in two layers.



Stage second. Construction of carcass

Step 1. The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having done the holes for anchors, the workpiece must be installed on the curb, place and make similar holes there.

Step 2.The billets are securely attached by anchors - at least three on each of them.




Step 3. Next, the carrier frame of construction is constructed. For this, extreme racks (their dimensions - 6x10x235 cm) are installed on the base and are attached to hexagon screws. For each screw is placed washer.

Step 4. It is drawn up by the opening under the door frame - the vertical racks are put, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the lumen be on each side is 1 cm more than the size of the frame.

Step 5. With the help of the wood screws, the jumper of the frame is attached.

On a note! At this stage, special attention should be paid to the accuracy of the sizes of the frame frame, since this will largely depend on the quality of the entire partition. Vertical, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect what the design it turns out.

Prices for Tree Self Care

self-tapping screws

Stage Third. Terkesolation. Installation of crates

Step 1. In cells you need to put mineral wool mats. If necessary, the material is cut with the assembly knife.

Step 2. On two sides of the frame to it, plastic film is fixed (it is necessary to make a stapler), after which it spreads from top to bottom.

Step 3. An obsess is installed in compliance with a step of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed even at the frame assembly stage - this will make it possible to solve the problem of its fixation at the bottom of the structure.

Stage fourth. Door Rama

Step 1. With the size of the opening in 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install the frame 80x205 cm (taking into account the 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). At the end of the installation, checking vertical / g of the homesoneal and fixation of the frame to the racks, all formed gaps must be bleed by mounting foam. Surplus of hardened foam are cut with a mounting knife.

Step 2. Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), open elements of the opening overlap from the washing of planed boards 60x30 mm. At the same time, special attention is paid to the fact that the vertical plane, which passes through the outer edges of the boards, must correspond to the plane of the outer facet of the lining.

Stage fifth. Washing trim Tile

The finish can be performed both after mounting the wall paneling and to it. It is important that the extinguishing and end of the tile shake is performed with extreme accuracy and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.

Stage Sixth. Clapboard

Installation of the lining begins with an angle and produced using the technology "spike in the groove". This means that the spike of each next sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the crate is performed using iron swipes.

The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without hats (in order to avoid random burns) or conventional self-draws, subject to subsequent closure of pins.

Prices for lining

Stage seventh. Installation of plinths and platbands. Final decoration of construction edges

Step 1. For platbands, the same lining will suit that was used when finishing. Through a circular, the lining should be cut down in length, and then clean the edges with a manual milling (a radius mill) is used). The vertical platband is joined with a horizontal strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.



Step 2. Plinths in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is boarded) and to racks through the lining (in those places where it can be done).

Step 3.. At the edges of the design of the vertical type platbands, it is necessary to start in the grooves of the walls, then attach to the walls of the brand names. At the same time, stepped holes are done, and the heads of twisted screws are hidden by wooden pins.

Step 4. Planks installed in the upper part of the design will only perform a decorative function. They need to attach to the ceiling by self-drawing, having previously drilled holes on it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

In the photo - the ceiling plinth in the steam room

The described option is suitable for the already besieged and the required required time of the Bani chub. The compensation gap to leave between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is needed in case of changing the dimensions of the church itself. If the total sediment has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.

As a trim, ordinary boards can be used. And they, and the lining should be only of hardwood, because the coniferous wood at high temperatures highlights the resin. We also note that all bars in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic agent.

Prices for plants

platbands

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink can be made of bricks. It is better to use spoonful masonry in ½ bricks (or, as an option, in a whole brick). Weighing such a construction will be quite a lot, therefore, it is possible to use hollow bricks to relieve it.

The first stage. Preparation

Before work, it is necessary to prepare all work surfaces. Flooring is removed from the floor to the foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Further, the workplace is equipped with good lighting, all items that are not needed in the work are taken out of the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage second. Solution

The following equipment will be required to work:

  • sieve;
  • sander;
  • shovel;
  • reservoir for kneading.

Step 1. First you need to sift sand in order to clean from third-party items. From a small-scale grid-Rabita and 4-bars constructed a sieve. Sand is carefully sifted.

Step 3. Proportions of kneading - 3: 1. Initially, the six buckets of sand and two - cement should be filled. Water fills, the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of the solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4.. The solution is mixed up to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of the knead, it will begin to fit and sit down, but you should not add water - it is enough just to mix it every 15 minutes.

Stage Third. Building

For this stage, you need such tools:

  • level;
  • pick;
  • trowel;
  • plumb;
  • rule.
Step, Nos.DescriptionIllustration
Step 1. The twine is stretched - it will be a guideline. The solution is stacked and aligned with cells, horizontal is checked. Then you need to wait a bit so that the solution grabbing.

Step 2.On top of it, another layer is applied and the laying of a number 1 begins.

Step 3.The first brick with a solution applied to the ends is placed on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tested and aligned in the twine, the surplus of the solution is immediately removed.

Step 4.If you plan to do the doorway (and in most partitions it is), then it must be set in advance. Using the struts, you should install the door frame. It is checked on horizontal / vertical, if necessary, its position is adjusted.

Step 5.Brick laid close to the box. To bind the partition to it or wooden walls, metal strips are used: they should be hooked and fasten to side surfaces so that they (strips) are between bricks; You can also use reinforcement rods.

Step 6.At the end of the masonry of the number 1, the brick is divided into two parts with the help of Kirk. One of these halves begins the second row. Stretched horizontally, the twine is transferred above to be easier to navigate. The third row begins the same as the first.

On a note! Masonry bandage is a prerequisite. Due to this, the load on the design will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will turn out more durable.

  1. Every five rows in the seams are placed steel strips or pieces of fittings - it will harden the design.
  2. To the walls, the design is tied with steel stripes, and for the door box you can apply an auxiliary reinforcement (ideally it should be a second-sized channel).
  3. The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small slices of bricks in advance in concrete. Slices need to be added as close as possible to each other. All cracks are close to packles, also treated with cement mortar.

Video - put the partition in ½ brick


Foam blocks (from gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that with insignificant (compared to brick) weighing have babout sources, which means, the masonry will be carried out much faster.

Standard blocks have a height of 300 mm and a length of 600 mm. The thickness depends on the type of room, where the septum is planned, but in most cases products are 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm. The cost of foam blocks fluctuates in the range of 21.5-49.5 p., Depending on the thickness.

The laying procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is a sequence of actions.

Prices for foam blocks

foam blocks

The first stage. Marking

Initially, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is stretched and placed the doorway. In accordance with the markup "dry", the first number of blocks is laid out, cropping, if necessary. For this, Bulgarian is suitable, although it is better to use the stone with a stone. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw applies.

Waterproofing is placed in the place of the future design (referring to the rubberoid) with two layers.

Stage second. Installation

For laying foam blocks, special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. The glue should be mounted by an electric door with a special nozzle-mixer m. The glue composition is applied on a foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the unit is placed in place and is tested, vertical / g HORZORONALITY is checked. Each new series of foam blocks must be shifted somewhere on ½ product width so that the partition is turned out to be more durable.

Where the partition is inserted with the main walls, it is binding to pieces of reinforcing or large nails. For this, the holes are done in the walls, the reinforcement with glue is inserted there by a minimum of 50 mm. In the blocks themselves, you can make a deepening, although it is preferable to put the products directly on the rods that stick out of the walls.

On a note! When the height of the septum reaches the upper part of the doorway, two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid. The length of the rods must exceed the width of the opening at least 10 cm. On top of the reinforcement blocks up to the ceiling itself.

Stage Third. Plaster

For plaster, you can use the same adhesive solution with which masonry was performed. If necessary, channels for laying communications are created. At the end of the plaster, the surface is drying, putty, painted or stones with tiles.

Prices for plaster

plaster

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), the partition from foam blocks can be constructed directly on the wooden floor. Although there are nuances here.

  1. When buying blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The greater the surface will be, the better the finish will be carried out.
  2. The dimensions of the blocks depend on the place of installation, while the density does not play any role.
  3. It is desirable to acquire blocks produced by cutting technology.
  4. If in front of the work foam blocks to moisten with water, it will increase the density of the masonry.
  5. The blocks of each new row need to be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
  6. Between the partition and the ceiling, it is desirable to leave a small gap (about 100 mm) to fill in the mounting foam.

Video - Laying partition foam blocks

Well, if when installing the box, all the rearrangements are immediately erected. But more often the room is divided after the roof is covered and windows and doors are inserted. The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink performs a very important function, so the approach to its manufacture should be very thorough.

Selection of material

The partition can be made from almost any building material, which is capable of withstanding high temperatures, not highlighting harmful substances. It can be:

  • Frame design of wood. This option is perfectly suitable for both the bath assembled in the same way and for the brick structure. It is rawd enough and easier to be warm.
  • From the cut. The rebound of this kind is better planning and mounted during construction. This is important, because It is necessary to draw a dressing with the whole structure. After this, it is almost impossible.
  • From foam block and aerated concrete can be mounted in brick buildings, as well as wooden, when the foundation for the redesign was planned in advance.
  • From brick. For these purposes, it is better to use a red brick, which is refractory and retains heat well.
  • From glass. To do this, you will have to order a design for specific dimensions of the material resistant. This is the most spectacular option.

This type of partition is one of the best. Does not require additional care. There is also no need to perform insulation, because Wood is already in itself an excellent insulator.


Note! For the articulation "in the paw", the procedure will be similar, except for the binding. Usually, the workpieces under such a connection method - the nerds - is manufactured at the initial stage for all logs. Next, the tip in the form of a trapezoid is made on the log and the same form makes a sample on the bar that will be laid perpendicularly.

Frame

For this option, you will need a edged board. Its size should be equal to the width of the future rebound. It can be 200 × 100 mm, 200 × 150 mm, 150 × 100 mm, 100 × 50mm. The thicker will be the partition, the better the heat will be maintained. In order to calculate how much the material is needed, it is necessary to calculate the perimeter of the partition. Next, add so much supports as it should be necessary if they have to be placed in 60 cm increments.


Note! When choosing this method, you also get excellent sound insulation. This is achieved due to the tight laying of the insulation inside the wall.

Brick

Note! As we have said, under such a partition you need to make a foundation in advance.

It is better to store in advance with the number of necessary material. The masonry can be performed in the Pollipich. This will save, and also reduce the total weight of the entire design. It is desirable that the sand, which will be used for the preparation of the solution, was dry. This will help correctly calculate the ratio and will contribute to a good grasp.


Note! In order for the wall above the doorway, it is important to put several reinforcement rods. It is desirable that its diameter is from 12 mm. Its length should be at least 20 cm more than the width of the opening. It is necessary to climb it in the seam.

Foam block, Gasobeton

The relief from this material is built on the principle of brick, but there are nuances.

  • When buying, choose the material, the sides of which are as smooth as possible, so you facilitate the whole process yourself.
  • For the solution, it is better to use special glue, which is more plastic and dries faster. If you want to cook it yourself, then the proportions will be 4: 1, except for sand and cement there will also be a plasticizer and a foam supplement (they need 50 grams to one knee).
  • The first row is trying without glue. If one of the blocks need to be trimmed, it is better to cut two extremely sizes to the same size so that it turns out good gleaming.
  • In the same way, as in the previous case, there is a gleaming with carrying walls using fittings or metal plates.
  • Through two rows, a metal grid is stacked in the seam.
  • The doorway and the partition above it are planned in the same way as in the previous version.
  • Finishing finish is performed using a facing material or putty.

Note! Be sure to pride in all rooms ventilation. This will help avoid growing fungus and mold. To do this, you can put the supply valves that will overlap. Also in the ceiling can be built anemostats and make conclusions from them through the ceiling to the roof.

Now you know how to make a partition in the bath. There are no obstacles in order to try to build it yourself.

Video

The principle of the device of partitions in wooden buildings is shown below:

Even in the smallest bath, there are usually two rooms: a pre-banker and a steam room, combined with a washing. But the question arises here: what partition should be between them? Wooden or brick? And how to build it correctly from the point of view of the heating of the premises?

In this regard, a home master may have a large number of questions that we will try to give an answer in this article.

What you need to know about partitions in the bath

Before the construction of a partition in the bath, you should take into account a number of features. In addition, for wooden and brick buildings there are various requirements.

About partitions in wooden baths

Wooden includes baths that are built from a bar, logs or collected on frame-panel technology.

Tip!
Experts do not recommend installation, especially if irregular building operation is planned.
The fact is that with the inner brick wall you will need more time to warm up the room, especially if we are talking about cold season.

The construction of the inner walls from the same material from which external, possibly, possibly, it was possible, but simply there is no need to be explained by several reasons:

  1. There is no effect of atmospheric phenomena inside the premises, therefore, as thick and durable partitions here are nothing.
  2. If you use smaller material here, it can lead to problems in connecting places.

Experts most often advise to equip the inner walls on the framework technology, since in the bath to make a partition on the principle of the frame is quite simple, and besides economically beneficial.

Frame walls possess the following advantages over the traditional logberon:

  1. Price.
  2. Little weight, and therefore, less load on the foundation, which extends the durability of the design.
  3. Easy work.

At the same time, you get warm and durable interroom partitions.

We build a bathroom bathing wall

Consider how to make a septum in a tree bath.

For this, there is a simple instruction:

  1. For the inner walls, we select boards, thick in about 5 cm and no more than 15 cm wide. Thinner boards may be a story.
  2. We form a crate from the boards with a step equal to the width of the heat insulating mat.
  3. Between the boards, we put the heat insulator. It is best to use mineral wool for this, as foam foam and is capable of separating harmful substances at elevated temperatures.
  4. From above on a boardy frame, we press the waterproofer.
    Such materials can be used as waterproofing:
    • Normal polyethylene film. Material is taken, thickness from 150 to 20 microns.
    • Special waterproofing material that has a foil side.
    • Penofol, which represents, on which the foil is applied on one side. Thus, you create an additional layer of waterproofing.

Tip!
Mineral wool is afraid of water, so it is necessary to securely protect it with a waterproofing layer.
The bands are stacked by the mustache, cursing the construction scotch.

  1. The last layer is mounted finishing material. Most often it is a lining that most corresponds to the interior and microclimate of bathrooms.
  2. The furnace should be installed no closer than the meter from partitions.

Tip!
In the event that a metal furnace will be used in the bath, "you will need a brick partition, desirable, even from chammed blocks.
If the metal furnace is rushing directly into the steam room, the wall can be wooden, but it should be seen by non-flammable materials.

Partition in block bath

How to make partitions in a brick bath? Here specialists also recommend applying the same frame technology.

There are several reasons for this:

  1. Brick walls are slower than heated, and accordingly, you will need additional heating costs, especially in winter.
  2. Condensate is settled on a brick or block masonry, and it will need to take it somewhere.

Some professionals advise to use magnesite sheets instead of the board.

They are produced on the basis of perlite and cellulose fibers. They are fixed on vertical profiles, after which the installation is repeated, described above.

Tip!
Such partitions can be arranged without insulation.
Here the insulation function will perform airspace between the boards.

As a finish for such walls, it is best to use lining.

Naturally, in a brick bath, you can create a brick partition. In this case, it is best to use masonry in the Pollipich, additionally strengthening the design with steel wire every several rows.

Tip!
It is possible to erect a brick partition in a wooden house only when the final shrinkage will occur.

Conclusion

Bani construction is a very responsible process that requires a plan and should take into account a number of nuances. And since there are at least two rooms in the bathroom, the question of the right arrangement of partitions is very relevant. The information presented above will help you build an inner wall without allowing errors, and the video in this article will offer you to see the visual moments of this problem.

The partition between the washing and steam room of the bath can be performed in several ways. The most common option is the manufacture of a wooden frame, in second place is a solid serbic partition, the manufacture of which is quite expensive. And the last way to divide two rooms implies the arrangement of a solid brick wall thickness in the Pollipich.

We will look at the wood-cutting partition from the tree as the most simple in the manufacture. Metal racks are also used as the base of the frame side, but this option is applied noticeably less often, as the metal is inclined to destroy under long exposure to high humidity.

The wooden partition is manufactured quite quickly and does not require large financial and labor costs, compared with whole walls from a bar or brick. At the same time, the airspace in voids between the frame elements is the cause of condensate formation at the points of the temperature difference between the heated parillery and colder air inside the partition.

In the Scheme of the Parich Office, the moat compartment.

An important question when choosing a type of partition - to insulate it or not? Here again, you can return to comparing different types of simpleness. Before the whole partition from the bar, brick or block, this question is not at all. By itself, the dense material of such walls will be at the necessary degree to protect the washing separation from overheating. At the same time, it does not have sufficiently high heat insulating indicators so that it is not to pass warmly into the oil.

How to make a partition with your own hands?

The first thing is made by a wooden frame, when the arrangement of which special attention should be paid to its fastenings to the walls. This is important in the case when the bath is made of fresh bar or logs. These types of buildings inevitably give shrink on time, which should be taken into account when creating any internal partitions.

The partition in the photo above is mounted on the walls using special metal fasteners designed to create the so-called "sliding partition". The corner is fixed motionless of the stainless bar, and the installation of the cutting wall is made on stainless self-tapping screws so that they can move inside the vertical groove of the attachment.

An alternative will be a wooden sliding design device, without the use of metal corners.

To the ceiling, the partition is fixed with a metal fastening with vertical grooves. In them, by analogy with wall corners, stainless self-tapping screws are screwed, which over time will move along these grooves.

On top of a wooden frame from the side of the steam, foil vapor insulation on kraft paper is stacked. All the joints of the material are sampled by foil scotch. There should be no unlucky holes and damage to the parobacrol layer so that the moisture does not penetrate into the common.

As can be seen in the photo, the surface of the floor on the floor has a small tile base. The tile is mounted over the slabs of the CML or CSP on a special glue. The plates are attached directly to the frame or on the sliding structure, if there is an adjunct to the walls of the log.

The fitting of the finishing finish of the partition from the steam partition is made on the crate, in this case it is lining.

Important moment - the place of the walls of the walls to the floor. Here it is necessary to carefully trace the layer of steam-savings to be continuous.

Warm or not?

Regarding it is worth saying that here it is necessary to look here in the circumstance, taking into account the characteristics of a particular bath. First of all, it is necessary to determine how much wave needed. If in the design of the bathroom, the washing room around the perimeter of external walls has a good heat shield or in the wall between the oil and the steam room is placed a brick shield or part of the brick furnace wage, it is obvious that in the additional warm-up, the warehouse does not need.

In the absence of need to additionally heat the waters, in the frame between it and the steam room can be laid thermal insulation. It will give the opportunity to preserve more heat in the steam room, as a result of which it will warm up faster and slower to cool. In addition, the use of a warmed partition guarantees the protection of the washing from overheating, which often happens in the baths that have good thermal insulation of the exterior walls of the structure.

In general, warming in the partition is not performed. The fact is that the insulation in space between the wet steam and wet washer will inevitably assemble moisture in itself. The peculiarity of the heat shield material from basalt wool is that with one of the parties it must be able to evaporate moisture from its surface. That is, it will be necessary either from the side of the steam, or from the side of the watertic office, do not protect the commonness with hermetic vaporizolation.

In the bath and washer and the steam room have high humidity and in each of these premises, as a rule, installation of a steamproof film is carried out to protect the wooden frame from a large amount of moisture in the air of both branches. If the plates of Minvati are in the simpleness, then they, even with the creation of hermetic protection against moisture on both sides, will still collect moisture, and there is no place to evaporate.

The only permissible version of the installation of heat shields in the partition is the manufacture of special holes for airing with the arrangement of ventilation gaps. The holes are not performed in the walls, but by the side of the frames of the frame.

Thus, it can be concluded that if you need sufficient heat insulation with overheating, it is necessary to install a one-piece partition from a bar or a thick board without cracks and free space inside the simpleness. This design will allow you to isolate the washing from the active heat that goes out of the steam room and will not create a risk of excess condensate.

The lack of insulation in the simpleness in most bath buildings is more likely to be needed. This is due to the fact that the entire building is actively warming up the steam room and the washing need is warm at least other premises, but rather even more. The wake-up compartment is usually colder than we would like and warmly walking from the steam room just compensates for this disadvantage.

The separation of the internal space of the bath construction is performed using partitions. We will tell you in this article about their species, features and devices.

Design partitions in the bath


Before making partitions in the bath, you need to determine the area of \u200b\u200bplanned premises. Their magnitudes depend on the dimensions of the construction and the number of permanent visitors. Based on this data, the plan is running the bulkhead to the existing walls of the bath with an indication of the axial sizes. Then the location of the doorways and the number of necessary material is determined.

As partitions in the bath can be used:

  • Transformable designs - sliding, soft folding, rigid folding, retractable and screen.
  • Stationary structures - brick, wooden and glass partitions.
The form of the planned partition depends on the requirements for it. If the bath's space is divided into the provision of reliable thermal and sound insulation of the premises, the durable stationary partition design is used. In other cases, it is possible to do with its mobile or collapsible options, for example, to separate the locker room from the bathroom combined with it.

Each of the types of stationary bath partitions has a number of advantages and disadvantages that need to be considered when choosing a species and material of the manufacture of a particular design. Since the main part of the barbar of stationary, the need arises to talk about them in more detail.

Features of the brick partition in the bath

Brick partitions are manufactured not only in stone baths, but also in wooden cuts. This is especially true in cases where the furnace furnace door is removed from the wage to the pre-banker or the rest room, and the separation partition is combined with the heating device.

Advantages and disadvantages of brick partitions for a bath


Their advantages are due to excellent physical characteristics:
  • Brick partitions have good soundproof properties. The burden of bulkheads in the Pollipich have a "noise" insulation index equal to 47DB.
  • Brick is moisture-proof material. With a high-quality device of bath ventilation, the appearance of fungus and mold on such a partition is unlikely.
  • Brick bulkheads fire-resistant and inedibles for insects and rodents.
The disadvantages can be found:
  • The considerable weight of the septum: with its thickness in the Pollipich, the mass of 1 m 2 of the masonry is approximately 280 kg.
  • Long time to manufacture partitions from piece material.
  • The need to plastering the design before it is finished.

The cost of 1 m 2 of the brick masonry is from $ 10 and higher, the cost of work is from $ 7 per 1 m 2.

Device partitions made of brick in the bath


For the construction of such a partition, masonry is used in the Pollipich or Brick. Before starting work, it should be stock: sieve for sand, a container for the preparation of a solution, a shovel, a hammer, plumb, level and culma.

The installation process is carried out in such a sequence:

  1. The workplace of work is exempt from unnecessary items, it is supplied with lighting and necessary materials.
  2. On the walls, the floor and ceiling of the bath are outlined the contours of the planned partition.
  3. From the sifted with sand and cement, a dry mixture is prepared in a 3: 1 ratio, for example, 2 buckets of the cement takes 6 buckets of sand. In the container, the resulting mixture is indulged in water to a monotonous state and plastic consistency.
  4. Before starting work from the floor, a wooden coating should be removed, and from the walls - the plating in the conjugation places. Surfaces are cleaned by a wet broom.
  5. For smooth laying of the first row of masonry, the cord is stretched, which serves as a leader of the arrangement of bricks. The solution of the first row is applied to the basis of the partition, and the second and subsequent rows - to the surface of the previous row and the ends of the brick. Masonry vertical control is performed using a plumb and construction level.
  6. The door frame in the opening of the partition is exhibited in advance and fixes in it using spacers, the brick is placed close to it.
  7. The partition of the partition is carried out with the dressing of the seams in the vertical direction. To achieve this effect, the second row of bricks should be started from the installation of the product halves.
  8. For the strength of the masonry through each five rows, the harring of the solution is reinforced with steel stripes or rods.
  9. Above the door frame as a jumper you can install a piece of chapeller with a length of 30-40 cm more width of the opening.
  10. The ceiling gap on the last row of masonry is eliminated by the layout of brick waste dipped in solution, small gaps are close to packles.
  11. To lay the communications in a brick partition, it is necessary to provide installation of mortgage sleeves. The material for them can serve as pieces of plastic pipes in length, corresponding to the thickness of the partition. The voids between the sleeves and masonry are filled with mounting foam.
If the brick partition located in the bath is to be plastered, you can not pay attention to the laying seams. But if it is a natural element of the design of the room, you need to perform a special tool laying with special care.

From the side of the washing separation partitions are usually covered with tiles, protecting brick from moisturizing. In the steam room, such a partition is insulated, is trimmed with a foil heat-reflective and waterproof material, followed by its facing with natural wood.

Features of the wooden partition in the bath

Tree bulkheads can be single, double or frame-trimmed. For baths, due to their "extreme" operating conditions, frame-and-walled structures are more suitable.

Pros and cons of wooden partitions for a bath


The advantages of such partitions are very significant:
  • The material of their manufacture is environmentally friendly.
  • The ability to perform in the bath of a frame partition with increased strength, withstanding more than 150 kg of cargo.
  • Small weight of a wooden partition. With its thickness, 150 mm, the weight of 1 m 2 of the design is 90-92 kg.
  • Good sound insulation, its index reaches 41DB.
Disadvantages are also available:
  • Designs made of wood are afraid of water, so they need waterproofing.
  • The material of partitions is edible for rodents and insects, the impregnation of wood with antiseptics can get rid of this problem.
  • Wood partitions are ignorated, their fire resistance is 0.2 hours. Partial protection from the fire is impregnated by the elements of partitions with antipiren.

The cost of 1 m 2 of the wooden partition is from $ 20 and above, it depends on the material of the trim.

Wooden partition device in the bath

Consider the device of the wooden partition between the steam room and washing in the bath. Step-by-step process looks like this:

  1. Assembly and fastening of the frame. This is the most time-consuming stage of work. The frame is used for the frame 50x50 mm or 50x100 mm, its assembly is performed on the spot. Two bars for the ceiling and floor with a length of each of them, corresponding to the width of the partition, are fixed on the corresponding structures using a dowel. Similarly, you should enroll with the walls for the walls. They are cut in the height of the room and are fixed between the floorboats and the ceiling in 600-120 mm increments. With the help of transverse bars is drawn up doorway. For stiffness, it is supplied additionally on both sides by intermediate racks.
  2. Warming partition. The insulation is stacked between the frame racks. The material for it can serve a basalt wool with a thickness of its plates 50 mm and a width of 600 mm.
  3. From the side of the wage to insulation, the frame is trimmed with a foil, the heat-reflecting side of which should be addressed inside the room. The material is fastened with a stapler to frame racks. The seams between the panels are sampled with metallic scotch.
  4. On the side of the washing branch of the bath, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing membrane of the type of isospan. Its fastening and seaming is performed similar to the previous option.
  5. Facing partition. To obtain a ventilation gap between the back side of the future sheathing and the waterproofing layer across the racks, thin rails are styled with a width of 15 mm. They are attached to the lining. The same operation is made from the part of the parley for foil material. All wooden framework elements must be processed by an antiseptic.
Such a wooden partition in the bath can be installed in one day.

Features of the glass partition in the bath

Unlike Soviet times, today's glass partitions are a fashionable design element with a variety of decorative solutions.

Advantages and disadvantages of glass partitions


Modern glass partitions in the bath can be made of glass blocks - a kind of transparent "bricks" made of glass with a thickness of 6-10 mm. Their surface can be corrugated, smooth, matte, transparent and color.

The manufacture of glass partitions has certain advantages:

  • Partitions look spectacular, durable, strong enough, fire-resistant.
  • Have good heat and sound insulation characteristics.
  • Move light, for transparent blocks, this value is up to 80%, in matte and colored products - up to 50%. Patterns of corrugated blocks give a bizarre game of blueberries.
  • The material of glass partitions can withstand the temperature differences from -40 to + 50 degrees. In the event of a fire, the design of transparent blocks can restrain the spread of smoke and flame for two hours.
  • Partitions made of glass easily wash and do not absorb odors, they are not terrible rodents and insects.
Despite the outstanding advantages, the shortcomings of glass bulkheads also have a place to be:
  • The inner surface of partitions eliminates the gasket of any communications - electrical wiring, plumbing, etc.
  • On the glass wall can not be hung the shelves or paintings.
  • A separate unit does not cut when mounting the partition.

The cost of glass blocks depends on their type. Industrial products - the cheapest, their price is 40-60 rubles / pcs. Colored blocks are more expensive - 160 rubles / pc. The most expensive are blocks with a pattern obtained as a result of sintering glass of different colors. Their price - more than 1500 rubles / pc. The cost of the installation of the partition is more than $ 20 per 1 m 2.

Glass partition device in the bath


Installation of a glass partition for a novice - a difficult task. Cement-sand solutions with a shallow filler fraction or "liquid" nails are used for laying glass blocks. There are two ways to install: on adhesive cement mortar and in modular cells.

The first way is on the maintenance of brickwork, it is quite time consuming and requires a lot of time:

  1. The base is cleaned of dust, garbage and dirt, and then aligned.
  2. The first number of blocks is installed in terms of level. Between them there are crosses from plastic for the seams of the same thickness.
  3. The masonry is reinforced horizontally and vertically with iron rods with a diameter of 6 mm through two blocks. For the day it is recommended to put no more than 3rd row due to the weight of the products - the raw bottom seams of the masonry can shift from gravity.
Work in the second way goes faster. Cellular lattices made of plastic, MDF or wood are attached to walls, ceiling and floor. Then they are filled with blocks using sealant or rubber gaskets.

How to make a partition in the bath - watch video:


The question of the bath partitions is quite extensive. We hope that the information provided in the article will help you choose the material and even make a partition in the bath with your own hands.