How to make a stove made of cast-iron bath? The stove for the bath from the cast-iron bath do it yourself how to make a furnace from an old bathroom

Of all homemade furnaces and designs, the cast-iron bath is best suitable for the home steam room. It is impossible to say that the homemade Kamenka from the old castle is distinguished by an exquisite design or very convenient to maintain. You won't argue here, the homemade looks not as impressive as modern cast iron boilers, but it warms it is not worse, and in the construction of the bath, the stove from the bath will cost an order of magnitude cheaper than the heating of industrial cast iron.

Why build a bath stove

At first glance, the idea of \u200b\u200bthe homemade height of the cast iron looks rather unusual and strange. Why make the stove from the cast-iron bath do it yourself, if you can buy a steel boiler stove of factory manufacture. In fact, there is a rational grain in such a venture:

Anyone specialist-metal confirms that the thick-walled casting cast iron is ideal for the arrangement of furnaces, fireplaces, boilers of various designs and models;
A good cast iron boiler is a fabulous money, whereas the construction of a furnace from an old bath will take a maximum of a couple of thousand rubles and several days of work;
The semicircular cross section and the shape of the bath case are ideal for organizing the combustion process, there are no stagnant zones or sharp corners leading to the local overheating of the walls of the bowl.

It is clear that the body of the bowl should not have cracks, metal chips or end-to-end corrosion. Because of poor workability, fragility and low plasticity, cast iron is quite difficult to process, cut and weld in handful conditions of a garage or cottage. Therefore, in order to make a stove from the bath with your own hands, a certain practice will be required. At least pick up the mode to cook with electric welding cast iron walls of the furnace, it will have to go long.

Preparation of the cast-iron bath case to alteration

The first stage of the construction of the Kamenka, regardless of its design and sizes, always begins with the removal of layers of old paint, lime-plated, rust, all of the garbage, which accumulated on its surface for dozens of years of operation.

Some masters recommend to burn the body on the outdoor firewood. The stove is installed on bricks and incite a small bonfire. Heat the cup from the cast iron will have long, not less than 2-3 hours until the remnants of contaminants are burned. In this way, it is possible to get rid of the spots and at the same time "reveal" the surface from the layered lime and rust.

Cutting the cast-iron bath case on the billet

Cutting the cast iron, especially thin-walled, rather difficult, in itself the material is soft and small plastic, with the slightest overload or overpressure can give a crack in the very possible place.

Dispose case in the following sequence:

On the enamel surface, the markings of the cut line are marked;
Through the through holes in the corners, the electric drill and the thin drill are departed, at the breakpoints of the milling line. On the rounded surface, the drilling is performed every 4-5 cm;
On the markup traveled with a file or an overwritten blade of the metal, in order to remove the enamel and prevent chips of the coating;
The last stage is the most responsible. The cast-iron bath is placed on a flat, absolutely smooth surface and cut the grinder along the markup line.

Tip! Usually, in order to avoid an incise, the housing is cut along the contour, leaving several jumpers into a pair of centimeters connecting two parts of the cast-iron bath.

The residues of the jumpers cut around the stone or remove the grinding. It is worth remembering that when cutting the cast iron, a huge number of black metal dust is formed, capable of entering the skin of the hands like soot. Therefore, before being taken for making your hands the stoves from the cast-iron bath, you need to stock up with respirators and protective clothing.

Kamenka Manufacturing Options

For heating and heating the bath, you can use three types of stoves based on the cast-iron case from an old bath:

Classic two-chamber stove with furnace and closed heating;
Fireplace stove with a screen;
Dome stove, the most complicated and interesting in manufacturing with your own hands.

The decision on which is the option of the stove of cast-iron bath to use in the steam room, is taken based on the size of the bath and the method of warming up. For example, the fireplace stoves made of cast iron are great for the sauna, while the classic two-section oven can be used to heating the bathroom and even cooking.

Cast iron Kamenka for big steam

In the ideal case, in the presence of experience and skills, working with the metal can be tried to build a two-circuit oven from the old bath, like on video. In this case, for the manufacture of real cast iron furnaces, a full-size bath will be required, a length of at least 180-190 cm.

At the heart of a similar furnace for a bath from a cast-iron bath, a whole body is used with a cut-off side or "back". The bowl is laid upside down on the base, laid out chamoten brick on vermiculite cardboard. In the design of the furnace, there is no presence of pondered or a grate grid, the firewood is laid out by layers directly to the heat-resistant base.

On the device and the principle of operation, the cast-iron oven made of a large bath is almost identical to the Russian oven. The smoke or pipe for the removal of combustion products is located directly at the boot windows of the furnace. Wood-lined firewood burns in layers, and the hot burning products are enveloped by a cast-iron arch of the furnace along the horseshoe trajectory and are removed through the chimney in the front of the furnace.

For your information! To compact the joint between the case and the heat-resistant base from the chamot use asbestos tapes, basalt cardboard and heat-resistant sealant.

The cast-iron bath is folded with red brick walls. The remaining space between the ceramic facing and the casing of the cast iron is poured by granules from the foam glass. The top plane is closed with a metal sheet. Thanks to the huge weight of the cast-iron case and brick shielding, the whole design warms no worse than a real Russian oven. According to the reviews of the owners, heat and smoldering coals in the cast-iron flue chamber are preserved during the day.

Simple dome stove

If we are talking about heating the room with an area of \u200b\u200bup to 10 m 2, then instead of an uneconom of a fireplace, you can try to build a single-screw-type cast-iron bath oven.

For the manufacture of firebox, half of the cast-iron bathtub of standard length will be required. As in the previous embodiment, the massive housing is used to improve the combustion arch, but in this case the size of the heat chamber is half smaller, which means it is heated faster.

The furnace chamber also does not provide for the presence of a grate grid, so it is necessary to sink such a furnace with a small linen laid in the depths of the furnace. After the firewood bargain, and the thrust will appear, you can lay the chamber on half of the volume. More impossible, the cast iron is still not a brick, so the arch of the oven when overheating can crack.

Fireplace stoves made of cast-iron bath

Of course, it is not necessary to build the stove from the bath to the baths of the bath. For a small steam room, you can quite bypass a small fireplace with a focus of the festival from the pre-banner.

For making with your own hands, a small stove from the bath can be adapted to the third part of the standard cup case or use one of the small-sized models of 120-130 cm long.

For your information! Cast iron baths are perfect for the manufacture of fireplaces, including fireplace stoves for the bath. In compliance with the chimney assembly technology and decoration of the heater, such a stove will be heard not worse than an industrial design.

The cut back of the case is installed on the foundation from heat-resistant bricks or blocks. The area for laying firewood should be covered with a sheet of stainless steel, while the place under firewood must be pulled to the maximum depth inside the housing. In the process of combustion of fuel, the hot gases will telete the wall or the former bottom of the cast-iron bath, thereby increasing the efficiency of the furnace.

The depth of the standard cast iron bath ranges from 40 cm, so the fireplace housing is easy to fit in the simpleness between the steam room and the pre-program. The back side of the body must be seen with a metal, cover with a fine grid of a stainless steel, and you can lay the backfill of the future heater.

Classic version of the stove of cast-iron bath

One of the most popular models is a two-section coaming chamber, made according to a standard scheme with a furnace, a mixture, ash with a hot chamber, where, in fact, a large part of the heat distinguished heat is assembled.

The design of the furnace consists of two sections - the upper and lower, each of which is equipped with its door. On the manufacture of one stove, one full-size cast-iron bath is consumed, 180 cm long. The housing is cut into two halves, which are connected to the contour of the side. Between the sections, the steel sheet is stacked, a thickness of at least 10 mm. The steel pipe for the chimney is boiled in this sheet, which is displayed through the location point of the drain hole in the bottom of the cast-iron bath.

Features of the assembly of the furnace

Two sections are connected to each other mechanically, any attempt to cook or glue the cast-iron halves will damage the design. To assemble the part of the furnace, it is installed on each other, the holes for the M10 bolts are drilled around the perimeter and combined using spring washers. The joint sheet of the steel sheet and the edge of the top chamber is close in heat-resistant fireplace sealant.

In the bottom part of the lower compartment, which is simultaneously furnished, cut the window for the lattice. Copyright is made from a conventional square tube with a thickness of 20 mm. The front walls of the upper and lower chambers are cut out of sheet steel, a thickness of at least 5 mm, doors and latches are also made of it.

The design is very simple, the only thing to pay attention to the assembly of the stove from the cast-iron bath do it yourself, is the performance of welding. All parts are hung and installed on the body using welding.

For your information! Welding work is necessary only by direct current, specialized electrodes of type Woni13-55.

The walls of the cast-iron bath are quite thick, so you have to spend a few hours, picking up the appropriate mode of operation. Seam is obtained like soldering, but the strength of such a compound is sufficient to withstand any thermal loads.

Conclusion

Make a cast iron bath oven is much easier than putting a dome stone, a fireplace or a brick warmer. On average, three full working days will be required for the manufacture of one full-fledged furnace with facing brick and tiles. The quality of such a stove is practically not inferior to the factory cast iron.

The first thing to be done before starting work is to be patient and acquired some tools. Next, it is necessary to clearly measure half of the bath and spend the line in this place. At this stage of work, you will need an angular grinder, the working diameter of which is 250 millimeters, as well as several high-quality cutting circles for metal.

Using these tools, we are cutting our now former bath in half. Remember, the most important point at this stage of work is to carry out the right measurement. Error, even one centimeter, will lead to the fact that the stove from the wrist-iron bath will no longer succeed.

We collect the housing of the furnace

Once all the preparatory work has been completed, the construction time of the furnace has come. To do this, it is necessary to carefully compare all the holes previously done and copold them with reliable bolts. At this stage, you should also take care of the tightness of the future furnace. To do this, you can use a special sealant, basalt cardboard or even asbestos.

After each bolt is tightened as stronger as possible, the assembly of the stove is considered completed.

In order for our design to acquire a finished look, it is also necessary to take care of the doors. They are best cut out of metal pieces, the thickness of which is 5-8 mm. The resulting furnace is installed on a pedestal made of brick, and is insulated by basalt fiber. This is necessary in order to maintain the highest temperature in the oven.

But do not forget that the furnaces of this type can be used not only for cooking, but also, for example, for heating the premises. Therefore, it should be borne in mind that the garden furnaces simply need to warm up, otherwise all the heat will go to warm the surrounding air. And if it is assumed that the bake of the bath, it is better to abandon the insulation, since its main task is precisely the return to the room in which it is located.

In order for the resulting design acquired a beautiful view, it should be made. The furnace itself is best to paint black refractory paint, and the brick on which it is installed, decorate with a variety of finishing materials.

Advantages and disadvantages of the stove of the cast-iron bathroom

The main advantage of such a design, of course, is its cost. If you have an old bathroom, you will need quite a few cash in order to turn it into the oven.

The second equally important advantage can be considered the durability of such a furnace. It depends solely on how qualitatively you worked the joints between two halves of the bath. But even if you didn't work out the perfect seams from the first time, the furnace can always be disassembled and fixed.

But if we consider this design from the point of view of heat engineering, the effectiveness of its work will not exceed 40%. This is because the flue gases have a direct exit outside, and therefore, only part of the heat passes itself, while the rest goes into the atmosphere. That is why this design is an excellent device for the bath. In this case, no indicators of the efficiency play roles because only the temperature is important to which the furnace can warm up.

Old cast iron bath is a very heavy and solid thing. The product of the Soviet industry is famous for its fundamental and durability. But over time, the snow-white enamel loses its shine and is not subject to recovery. Then the bath goes to the landfill. But many daches and owners of private houses use a cast-iron design more rationally. The oven from the bath not only allows you to prepare amazing dishes, but also becomes decoration of the estate.

Building a stove from a cast-iron bathroom with their own hands will require the use of the following tools:

USM (Bulgarian);
Cutting and credit discs to the USM;
Electric drill, drill;
Passatia, wrenches;
In the presence - equipment for gas cutting of metal;
Shant tool - shovels, scrap;
A hammer;
Trowel, spatula;
Capacity for the preparation of the solution;
Measuring tools - Roulette, plumb, metal corner, construction level;
Welding machine for mounting chimney, mask, electrodes;
Wooden hacksaw (for formworking).

The construction began implies the presence of a cast-iron bath. The babber has a foundation, since the overall weight of the design takes a decent value. In addition to the bathroom, you will need the following materials:

Cement;
Sand;
Red brick;
Water;
Clay;
Metal sheet with a thickness of 4 mm;
Metal corner;
Homemade or factory lattice of the appropriate size;
Metal and loops for doors;
Pipe for chimney with a wall thickness of at least 3.5 mm, a diameter of 100 - 125 mm, a length of 2.5 - 3 meters;
Material for waterproofing foundation - polyethylene film;
Rabitz;
Boards thick 20 - 25 mm, nails, rails 20x20 mm.

The first stage of construction is cutting the old bathroom across two equal parts. This operation is performed using a grinder. First, the casting line is marked - the trait is applied with a marker to enamel or chalk on the outdoor part of the bowl. Cut is best done along the outer part of the bowl, but in the absence of such an opportunity, you can cut on the inside.

Cutting products from cast iron - work is continuous and time-consuming. A professional tool is used for this work, in the absence of such it is necessary to take breaks in the work, otherwise the Bulgarian can burn.

When working it is necessary to follow security conditions. It is better to wear a protective mask on the face, otherwise the smallest enamel particles can get into the eyes. With the cutting of the cast iron, a large amount of dust is formed - breathing must be protected with a gauze bandage or respirator. The room where the work is carried out, it is necessary to isolate from adjacent premises - dust cleaning will subsequently deliver serious difficulties.

When cutting a bowl, the bath must be fixed so as not to clamp the bladler disk. Disk fragments that burst during operation can cause injuries. Cutting the bathroom occupies, on average, about 45 - 60 minutes (excluding interruptions). The speed of work always depends on the level of ownership tool.

It is necessary to take into account the structure of the cast iron - it has low impact strength. Therefore, to inflict strong blows, it is impossible to load the mechanical force of the bath.

Installation of the furnace

The oven from the old bath, placed on the country area or the land plot of the private house, consists of three main parts:

The firebox from the old bathroom;
Foundation of the furnace;
Brick masonry, facing.

After preparing the bathroom (cut into two equal parts) proceed to the construction of the foundation.

Foundation building

With the help of pegs and cords make the markup of the future foundation. The foundation is performed from a concrete solution or brickwork.

At first, the trench of the rectangular shape is broken, the depth should be at least 500 mm. At the bottom of the trench, the layer of sand and rubble is stacked, the layers are tamped. A layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the cushion - it is usually a polyethylene film. A formwork is built in the central part to raise the base of the foundation under the furnace. Most often, the overall formwork and the foundation is poured on a height of at least 250 - 300 mm from the level of soil.

The free volume is reinforced and is poured with a solution of cement and sand in the proportion of 1 cement measure for 3 sand measures. In another case, the volume is filled with brick masonry.

After completing the work on the construction of the foundation, he is given time for high-quality frost.

Assembly works

After finding the foundation, the assembly works are proceeding. On the base of the foundation, the first half of the bowl (without drain holes) is installed. On top of the folding bowls fit on the heat-drive sealant sheet metal, carved by the bathroom template.

Sometimes the hole cuts into the sheet to use as a cooking surface.

A hole corresponds to the overlapping sheet corresponding to the diameter of the chimney chimney with a diameter. The pipe is welded to the floor sheet with electric arc welding.

The second half of the bathroom is stacked on the floor sheet. Previously, the joint is laid by heat-resistant sealant, instead of the drain (lower) hole cut the passage for the chimney. First, the hole is placed on the cross section of the pipe used, then the holes are drilled on the markup. Choosing the overonded element is dangerous - cast iron fragile - therefore the holes are connected by the grinding slots.

On the perimeter of the two hemisphew of the bathroom, holes are drilled, the joint is tightened with M10 or M12 bolts. Fasteners are installed in 150 - 200 mm increments. When tightening bolts, it is not necessary to make excessive efforts - cast iron can burst. In the lower hemisphere at a height of 15 cm from the lower point of the arch, the support bolts for the grate grid are fixed. Installation of supports is required, otherwise, when the shift is shifted, the burning firewood will fall into the lower part of the furnace and the quality of combustion will violate. The main works on the construction of the furnace are completed.

The front of the furnace is equipped with two methods - from metal and brickwork. In the case of the use of a metal sheet, its markup and cutting under the appropriate grinding size are made. Its fastening to the split end of the furnace is produced through metal corners attached to a cup and a sheet through the holes with bolts. In the sheet plane, the openings are cut for a small (bottom) door pondered and the high top of the furnace of the furnace (serving for fuel loading). Doors are usually installed on the welded loops.

The cost of metal and the amount of work with such an implementation of the facial part of the furnace exceed the installation option of the brick masonry. When performing masonry from the end of the furnace, it leaves the mortgages and openings to install the door.

After assembling the facial part, the lower hemisphere of the furnace is plated brick. First, the first angle is displayed (on the plumb), then the masonry continues along the perimeter of the furnace.

After pouring the masonry, they start working on the thermal insulation of the upper hemisphere. For this, it is stacked by a chain grid. The grid must fit tightly to the surface of the furnace - for this it is fixed to the brickwork around the perimeter. The chapter serves as a frame, supporting structure for clay layer. The grid is tightly clogged with the first layer of a predetermined clay solution of medium viscosity. After partial frost, the finishing layer of clay is applied and aligned.

The clay should be frozen - it must be covered with precipitation with a film without limiting air access. After pouring the clay, most often covered with several layers of lime blots.

To the chimney pipe you need to install fungus to protect against precipitation.

Some craftsmen recommend apply cast iron baths for building a bath furnace. Moreover, the cast-iron bath protrudes the base of the heater and simultaneously serves as an upper vault of the furnace, it can be splashing with ice water in a hot condition. Cast iron in this case can crack. Make a stove for a bath from a cast-iron bath - count on a certain luck, not to know the properties of the cast iron.

Registration of external facade

The external design of the furnace depends on the desires of the owner. The masonry can be stuck and painted, various decorative mosaics, natural stone are applied to it. Design decoration is not always sure - the oven from the bathroom will always look like an amazing structure on the plot.

Construction of a furnace from an old cast-iron bathroom - an event that requires equipment and some skills in carrying out installation work. But the construction of the furnace is worth it - it has an excellent design and will serve his owner for many years, surprising with culinary delights and decorating the estate.

The time occurs when plumbing due to its type or malfunction becomes unsuitable for use. But, replacing it new, you should not hurry to throw away. Sadders and household owners can easily make a garden furnace made of cast-iron bath, which, by strength and service life, will not give way to factory models.

Pros of the use of cast iron

This type of metal is considered to be one of the best chimney materials. Its main pluses should be attributed:

Environmental safety. When heated does not highlight harmful substances.
Resistance to temperature drops. The street oven, created from the brick, after a few years it can start crumbling.
High thermal conductivity. The fireplace from the cast iron warms the room much faster than built from other materials.
Strength. Cast iron is the leader among metals in strength. Even steel furnaces are less reliable.
Ease of operation.
Fire safety.

The disadvantages of cast iron, which is worth paying attention is fragility and corrosion exposure. In the first case, unnecessary mechanical impacts should be avoided, in the second - process the surface with special solutions.

The homemade design of the cast iron will turn out not very beautiful, so it is recommended to put it with a brick or stone.

Preparation of materials and tools

To create such a miracle bake from the bath, you need to prepare:

angular grinding machine (Bulgarian);
2-3 circles for metal with a thickness of at least 1 mm, a diameter of 12.5 cm;
electric drill;
metal drills with a diameter of 9, 11 mm;
grinding circles;
files;
a hammer;
level;
construction pistol (for applying sealant);
plumb;
putty knife;
master OK.

Materials that you need:

iron or steel sheet 5 mm;
refractory red brick;
grate;
sealant;
clay;
sand;
metal corner;
bolts with nuts, washers;
pipe for chimney with a diameter of 12 cm.

Photo: Material Prepared, It remains to choose the destination of the furnace and proceed to work

When all materials, tools are assembled, you can proceed to cutting the container. For convenience, it can be turned over to the bowl down or lay the side.

Users are often looking for:

It is necessary to clean the grinder carefully so as not to damage the surface.

Before starting to cut the bath, it is worth considering several nuances:

Application of markup will simplify the cutting of the product.
The first is removed by the enamel layer strictly over the line. This will help prevent the appearance of chips around the edges.
The next step is to cut the cast iron. Make it gradually, in small pieces of about 10 cm, so as not to overload the grinder.
When the bath is already cut in half, supports supports for each piece. They will not give it details to fall and damage the tool, material.

According to the reviews of experienced builders, the grinding machine is better to operate at an angle. So enamel will not start peeling and all cuts will turn out to be smooth without burrs.

Subject to the use of high-quality grinder, the processing of the cast iron will take no more than 1 hour.

For a barbecue, you will need two halves of the bath: one part will perform the fuel loading chamber function, the other is necessary for cooking. For a bathing stove or a fireplace will be enough one half.

Stepitary creation of a bath from a bath

Without building experience, it is worth consulting about all the subtleties of laying and installing parts with a specialist, and it is better to perform work under the supervision of the master. So the product will be qualitative and fire safety standards will be observed.

As for the construction of the foundation, its type depends on the total weight of the furnace:

For the design of over 700 kg, a monolithic or ribbon base depth from 50 cm should be equipped. A formwork is built around the perimeter, the formwork is constructed and a layer of rubble or broken brick is covered. Tamper. Poured concrete.
For mines of small sizes, there is enough brick foundation. It is recommended to acquire the cement of the brand not lower than M300. Bricks put an edge, fasten with a solution.

Now consider detailed instructions for the manufacture of each of the furnaces with different purposes.

For bath

To create the necessary conditions in the steam room, the design must comply with the following requirements:

have high thermal power;
adjust convection streams;
produce a sufficient number of steam.

The construction procedure for the sauna oven:

It is important to notice that the foundation should have a protrusion on the border of the furnace at least 50 cm, and before the furnace it is necessary to leave 1-1.5 m of free space.

An interesting idea to make a bath oven from both halves of the bath. The second part will be needed as an extension for heating of water or you can lay out a Russian stale.

For cooking

In the country area, do not do without barbecue or mangala. And the ability to bake delicious bread, fry meat outdoors forcing the owners to equip small street ovens on the territory.

Let us give a description, how to build a barbecue from the bath.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Some masters leave a barbecue in this state, but that your oven looks beautiful, you still need to perform an outdoor finish.

There are several options:

Tempets of the clay part.
Laying a whole ceramic tile or her pieces.
The finishing of the surface with natural stone, previously cut into parts with a thickness of 10 mm.

Materials are attached to the furnace with heat-resistant adhesive compositions.

A good solution is to set the chimney to the oven through the drain hole of the bath, expanding it in advance, and then welcome it to the steel sheet.

For heating

In the country, it is easy to build a fireplace of half a bath. He can be:

Built in the wall. Suitable if the house is performed by brickwork walls. Significantly saved free space.
Leaning (semi-open). The fuel is at a considerable distance from the wall. This fireplace does not need a separate foundation, it is mounted directly to the floor. It has a good craving, built-in ash bar.

Plus the use of pig-iron bathing part - the fireplace is in the form of the arch and eliminates the complex brickwork. The hole under the chimney pipe is made at the top of the bath. The outer part is decorated with a fireplace portal.

When building a semi-open fireplace, such recommendations should be taken into account:

A cement solution is poured under a thickness of 15 mm thick.
The metal grid is stacked from above.
Apply a layer of waterproofing.
Asbokarton type insulation is laid.
Constructed pedestal under the furnace. Suitable brick, aerated concrete. Binding mixture is a cement solution or heat-resistant glue.
Construction plastering. It is possible to separate it with a stone, ceramic tiles.
Between the facing and firebox of the fireplace, leave the gap for the convection system of heating.
The chimney tube is mounted in the hole done, it is removed through the overlaps, the roof. Often it is done in the form of a sleeve.
From the inside of the furnace, the chimney is trimmed with thermal insulating non-flammable material.
Finishing the bottom of the fireplace is performed.
The product is closed on the side and on top of the frame from duralumin corners connected by self-drawing.
The frame is trimmed with plasterboard.
Holes are done in facing for air ventilation.

When installing the chimney, it is important to consider that with the height of the pipe up to 5 m, the deviation angle is 45 0, over 5 m - not more than 20 0.

For utilization of garbage

An unusual solution to build a stove for burning waste from the old bath.

The principle of its construction is similar to Street Mangalu.

Furnace placement scheme on a brick basis

Alternative - to remake the old heater, removing all the details besides the grate of the grid and the case. Part of the cast iron is welded to the base from the inside to enhance the design.

In such a fiery trash, you can upload waste from above. When burning, the furnace is worth covering another part of the bath so that the smoke does not dissipate throughout the site.

So do not hurry to get rid of things that have failed or lost view. In skillful hands, even the old bath will receive a second life, will become a functional stove that will serve many years.

The oven from the old cast-iron bath with your own hands opens unlimited opportunities for every master who loves to make your own hands.

Turn

Thanks to the logical obsolescence of the baths from the cast iron, their cost is reduced from year to year, and the benefits of the construction of the furnace cannot be measured by any money.

Forget about the fact that your own oven is expensive. All that will need is a small set of tools and a certain number of personal time.

Design device

Most often used a cast-iron bathtub of a classic type, which is divided into two equal parts. From above, the free plane is closed with a steel sheet to create a closed space.

A concrete floor or brickwork can be used as a base. With a proper cut, open cracks will not appear, which will interfere with the thrust.

Actually, the chimney pipe is attached at the place of drain exit, which avoids the need to perform a number of additional cuts and drilling. It is worth understanding that the stove from the bath sawn in half can be additionally sold or donated to close friends, as two ovens can be created from one bath.

An example of a cast iron bath furnace in the photo:

Output

There is nothing difficult to create your own cast iron bath oven. Carefully follow the instructions in order to get a fantastic result. Be sure that the quality of the furnace will not give up to industrial models, but the cost will be in order lower than that of the original!

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