Fixing drywall on wooden rails. Installation of ordinary drywall on a wooden frame of plasterboard on a wooden frame can

There are several ways to create smooth walls and ceilings in the interior. When one of them is fixed plasterboard on a wooden frame. It is made of pine or spruce bars, the cross section of which should correspond to future loads. To create a septum with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm timber is suitable.

The bars for the frame for plasterboard are performed from spruce or pine trees and are thoroughly dried and processed.

Requirements for sawn timber used when creating a crate

The bar must be carefully checked. It can be weakly yellow or light brown without black or blue spots. Each item should have the right geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and rectinity deviations.

In construction and finishing works, it is recommended to use wood with a humidity of about 15%. It is impossible to check it yourself, so when the material is selected, you just need to make sure your hand touch, that it is not wet. Before installation, it is desirable for a few days to hold the bars indoors where they will be installed.

To protect against biological rotting, mold, wood bug and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compositions. You can use ready-made mixtures for internal works or independently prepare a 4% sodium fluoride solution by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to brush bars in several passes and give the material well dry.

Tools and Materials for Mounting Wooden Frame

Master starting to mount a wooden frame for drywall must have at hand:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• a hammer;
• construction level or plumbing;
• coated thread;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• self-tapping screw;
• dowels, anchor, brackets or anchor plates;
• steel corners or mounting plates.

In the process of creating a septum, except for bars, the sheets of HCL, mineral wool, primer, putty and finishing materials will be required.

Application markup

Before starting to make a wooden frame for plasterboard, it is necessary to determine the plane in which it will be installed and designate the lines of its intersection with floor, ceiling and walls. At the same time, you need to remember the thickness of the GLC and take it into account when applying markup.

The starting point is chosen on the shella of the ceiling with one of the walls. Having attached to her plumb, find the corresponding mark near the floor. Both dots connect the vertical straight line. Plasterboard sheets are manufactured with sufficient accuracy to use them to determine the direct angle. To do this, apply the GLC an angle to the mark on the floor with a narrow side close to the wall. Continuing perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the following mark. Using a plumb or level rising to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines with a coated thread or pencil with a ruler.

Montage of wooden frame

The basis of the wooden frame is the bars located along its perimeter. They are attached according to the applied markup. The manufacture of the frame from the support bar is beginning, which is attached to the floor with a self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors depending on the base material. If the partition is a doorway, two vehicles are taken away from the passage to the walls.

When installing the frame, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the sheets of plasterboard are fixed so that the joints of the two sheets were in the middle of the bar.

In the same way, the bars are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then set vertical racks in the central part of the frame. Start with bars framing the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm more exterior size of the door frame.

Racks are installed strictly vertically ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling frame brushes. The mount is made by self-pressing with the use of steel corners or mounting plates intended for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will ensure the reliability of communication. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm. The racks are connected by a horizontal jumper.

Between the opening and walls evenly with increments of 40 - 60 cm put another required number of racks. For large sizes of the partition, it will have to be closed with several GLC sheets. Plasterboard plasterboard on wooden rails so that the place of the joint of two sheets accounted for exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of the racks is made taking into account the future cutting and installation of HCL.

For the same reason, if the ceiling height is larger than the leaf of the plasterboard, the horizontal bars are fixed on the place of the joint of the first and second row.

Frame covering sheets of GLK and finishing work

Installation of HCL on a wooden frame starts from the bottom angle of the partition or from the doorway. To do this, we use screws on a 35 mm tree. They are installed in increasing to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. At the same time, the screws of the screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for high-quality wall decoration.

If it is necessary, cutting plasterboard is cut off with a construction knife, followed by dummy at the place of the cut. The sheets are kept together with the factory edges to each other, and the cropped edges draw up to walls and ceiling.

After installing the GLC on one side of the partition, its internal space for noise insulation is filled with mineral wool briquettes, foam or polystyrene foam. Electrical and informational cables are paved protected from damage to corrugated tubes. Then the reverse side of the wall is then trimmed.

After the skeleton of the frame of the skeleton, it is necessary to progress, and then the joints and hats of the screws are well covered.

Mounted plasterboard sheets are handled by primer. After its drying, all the joints and hats of the self-tapping screws are closed with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely smooth surface is obtained. In two days, it is once again stung and glued wallpaper, ceramic tiles or cause any other type of finishing finish.

Overlooking Snowless Wall Plasterton and Ceiling

If the size of the room allows part of the space to take plasterboard, it is possible to close the uneven walls and the ceiling with it. To do this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.

When the wall is trimmed, it is necessary to repeat all the operations described for the mounting of the jumper by setting the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take the bars and rakes of a smaller cross section, since they additionally can be attached by brackets or anchor plates to the wall closed.

Some masters collect a frame on the smooth floor, and then expose it to the right place and secure. All cavities between bars are filled with thermal insulating materials. Install plasterboard on the rail, trying to prevent the presence of joints over the door and window openings, because there will be no support vertical racks.

When installing the GLC on the ceiling, the frames frame are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and on the same level. After that, an inner lamp is performed with fixing it to extreme bars and to ceiling plates. Ceiling drywall has a slightly smaller thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install it.

Today, any designer ideas can be implemented using such a simple and popular material like plasterboard. It is used now everywhere: with the help of it, interior partitions are erected, the window slopes are separated, the walls are squeezed from the inside and outside, the ceiling is also popular, the internal decorative decoration of the room is also popular. There are several ways to cover the walls of plasterboard: the frameless connection and the use of the support frame. Most often for wooden surfaces, the second method is used, and a tree is chosen as a frame material.

So that the walls of the walls of the plasterboard did not bring problems and had long delighted the eyes, before starting work, a number of very important points should be taken into account.

Wooden frame features:

1. First of all, you need to know that if you have decided to install drywall on a frame of wooden bars, you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which work will be performed. Remember that the humidity adversely affects the frame made of wooden plates.
2. Carefully inspect the beams before buying: they should be without cracks, chips and other damage.
3. A tree from which rakes and a bar are made must comply with fire safety standards.
4. Before working, the tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: it will increase its service life. It can be any, but more often it is recommended to use sodium fluoride.

Mounting drywall on wooden rails: pluses solutions

Despite the fact that many builders prefer a metal as a basis for plasterboard structures, the tree also has its own obvious advantages that make a wooden frame of a worthy competitor to a metallic analogue!

Advantages of a wooden frame before metallic:

• The availability of material and its low cost.
• High construction speed.
• Ecology.
• Easy to use.

Before starting work with the tree, the rail will need to leave for several days indoors, where installation will be carried out for acclimatization.

Wall decoration in a wooden house Plasterton: Preparation for work

In any construction business, do not do without special tools. To work smoothly, buy everything you need in advance. What will be needed in working with plasterboard, is listed below.

Instruments:

1. Drill or screwdriver;
2. Hacksaw or jigsaw;
3. Roulette;
4. Marker or chemical pencil.

Materials:

• Wooden rails and bars;
• Self-tapping screws, screws;
• Metal corners.

Any finishing work begin, first of all, from cleaning working surfaces.

First of all, it is necessary to remove the old coating from the walls, the remnants of the insulation and sound insulation - in a word, any items that may interfere with the workflow.

Before working the walls you need to cover with a special primer in order to avoid the appearance of fungi and mold.

How to sew a wooden house from the inside drywall: make a frame

When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden bars.

We remind you that the rails must be previously processed by an antiseptic that will prevent the rotation and destruction of the material.

Several tips before work:

1. The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
2. The width of the REKEs themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be borne in mind that in the places of the joints of the sheets of plasterboard between themselves, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
3. Deck fastening is best done directly to the wooden wall and among themselves. For these purposes, self-sufficiency is perfect.

The carcass assembly itself should be started with fixing solid bars along the walls and the ceiling. After that, you can start the installation of the rails that will be located vertically. Further, fix between vertical bars additional horizontal short rails-jumpers. Part of the framework of the frame can be fastened with construction corners and lining, it will give it additional stability.

When working, vertical and horizontal rails must be installed strictly by level!

After that, if necessary, you will need to align the frame relative to the wooden wall. This is done as follows: Bruks of the desired thickness are put in the right places. After the montage of the framework is completed, you can begin to attach plasterboard sheets to the resulting rated and beams.

Plasterboard walls in a wooden house: prepare the material

• The edges of the sheets of plasterboard should be in the middle of the strut.
• If necessary, use an intermediate profile.

Carrying out wall alignment, follow the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.

Treatment of walls or partitions from plasterboard in a wooden house

After the installation is completed, the connections between the sheets of drywall and the hole from the screws of the screws should be processed.

To do this, we need:

• Putty knife;
• Special putty;
• Reinforced tape or grid;
• Electrode with a nozzle for putting off putty.

It is necessary to start work with the preparation of a putty mixture. We advise you to use a special putty to close the seams. Also pick up a spatula, convenient for work. It should be with a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.

A finished mixture with a spatula is applied to the seams of drywall, as if indiscriminate it between them, then cut a piece of ribbon of the desired size and stick it to the processed seam. Similarly, process the remaining seams and joints. To fill the hole from the screws on the drywall, you need to apply plates to the desired location, smoothing it in different directions. After all necessary processes, you can prepare the wall to further work at your own desire to prepare a plasterboard. Preparation options can be mass, it all depends on your desire, fantasy and opportunities.

How to sheathe the walls of plasterboard with their own hands (video)

Practice shows that if you adhere to certain rules and technologies when wearing wooden walls with plasterboard, work does not take much time and will not be much difficulty. In addition, carrying out the installation of drywall in a brusade house on a wooden frame with their own hands, you significantly save a family budget.

Interior decoration of a wooden house with plasterboard (process photo)

Different materials are used to work with plasterboard. The most common method of building profile metal frames is most common, but the wooden structures can be found quite often.

The tree is a natural environmentally friendly building material, so some prefer it. It is worth saying that the tree is subject to climatic exposure, biological corrosion and fires, therefore requires additional processing.

Installation of plasterboard on a wooden frame is used quite often.

Wood preparation

Physical properties

The frame for plasterboard is made from high-quality wood coniferous rocks.

Make a frame for drywall from the coniferous tree. The timing of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of the trim.

Basic physical characteristics:

• Humidity from 12 to 18%;
• For partitions of the W121 brand 2.8 - 3 meters high use a timing segment of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for crate;
• For partitions of the W122 grade 2.8 - 4.2 meters, a timber is used by a cross section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and crates, and depending on the height, various thicknesses of HCL are used: for height 2.8 - 3 meters - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3 - 3.6 meters - 2 × 14 mm, 3.6 - 3.9 meters - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9 - 4.2 meters - 2 × 18 mm;
• The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
• Fire retardant processing must comply with the first fire safety group;
• It is allowed to connect on nails, spikes and self-drawing, and precisely the spikes are most preferable, since they create a rigid and durable compound;
• Mineral wool sound insulation thickness should be from 50 to 60 mm;
• The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm;
• The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51, depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, wood should lie in the room for several days, where it is assumed to be assembled to acclimatize.

Use a high-quality lumber that meets the requirements for humidity and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates of material processing with antipirens and passing the appropriate examinations authorized bodies.

Chemical treatment

Antiseptic processing - the condition of the long service of lumber.

In addition to fire-fighting, wooden frame for drywall must pass antiseptic processing.

This measure is aimed at combating all sorts of biological risk factors, namely:

• Fungal and mold microorganisms. The powerful medium for mycelium a number of mold and not only mushrooms can serve a tree. At the same time, wood comes into disrepair and collapsed;
• Biological rotting. Wood - organic material that is subject to necrobiasis and decay, like all organisms. Antiseptic processing is needed for preservation.
• Insects-Olds. A variety of insects that feed on wood and leading it is known.
• Rodents. Also pose a danger to wood. Processing with antiseptics scares these animals.

Insect pests are able to spoil wood in a short time.

Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is the fluorinist sodium.

This is a light gray powder soluble in hot water. Limit solubility is 3.5 - 4%.

Sodium fluoride well turns inside the wood and is very weakly washed away. In this case, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode metal, there is no smell and not toxic for humans. Enough strong antiseptic.

An example of wood damage to fungal mycelium.

Sodium siliconfluoride is also used, often with the addition of calcined soda, which turns it into a pure fluorine sodium.

Unacceptable for residential premises Use of oily antiseptics:

• creoshot
• coal
• shale
• anthracene oils.

These connections are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the house.

Installation of a wooden frame under plasterboard

Tracing the lines of the compound partition with walls

To build lines, use the 3 or 4 meter rule.

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the partition, it is necessary to make trace, or, simply put, the markup of the lines, along which the partition will be adjusted to the walls, floor and the ceiling of the room. (See also an article How to build a partition from plasterboard: Features)

To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and retreat from it to the width of the GCL sheet.

Do it better through the ceiling-wall. Note the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb down the wall. To do this, at the point we score a nail, hang a plumb and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, at the floor itself.

As a plumb, you should use a centered loader with an axis pointer.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, it is necessary to carry out from the bottom point perpendicular wall line.

This can be done by constructing the so-called "Egyptian triangle": a rectangular triangle with the aspect ratio of 3: 4: 5, where the 3rd and 4th mattings correspond to the 3rd - hypotenuse.

At the same time, one roll laying along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple 3rd. Next, from the bottom point, we build a circle arc in the direction of perpendicular to the wall with a radius, a multiple of 4th.

Then from the other end of the category built along the wall, we build a circle arc with a radius, a multiple of 5 so that it intersects with a previously constructed arc.

By connecting the point of intersection of these arcs with the original lower point, we get perpendicular to the wall. We spend along this perpendicular line on the floor - the second line of our partition.

In the place where the floor line is connected to the opposite wall, pointing the point at the bottom of the wall. Using a level or plumb to transfer this point under the ceiling. We connect the lower and upper points and get the third line. (See also an article of a drywall niches in the wall: how to do.)

Next, we connect two top points on the walls on the walls and get the fourth and last line. Thus, we must get a rectangle on the floor-wall-wall lines, along which the partition will be adjusted to the room.

Tip!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick: to attach a sheet of drywall sheet with a short side, and along the long carrying perpendicular from the calculated point.

Mounting frame

Wooden frame for plasterboard partition.

As you can see a photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical, as well as horizontal bars. Mounting the frame should be started from the frame.

For this, along the lines that we built on the walls and the ceiling, the bars should be consolidated. If the house is wooden, attitudes them with self-drawers or spikes to the ceiling beam, floor lags and walls.

If the construction is stoneware, bars are secure with dowels and screws. You can also use direct suspensions or brackets.

KNAUF bracket can be used to fasten the bars to the wall.

Along the walls and the ceiling, fasten solid bars. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located at the wall - then the bottom timber will be solid and located one way from the opening.

So, fasten all the bars, to drill holes in the walls and the ceiling, use a shock drill with a brown of concrete.

Doorway

Door opening is formed by double risers.

When the frame is ready, proceed to the installation of the doorway.

For this, on the sides of it, we install two risers. The width of the opening should be 4 - 5 centimeters wider the door box.

We establish the risers and strengthen them with additional bars, as in the photo.

At the height of the door frame, plus 2 - 3 centimeters set the horizontal jumper, which we connect with two vertical bars with a ceiling rail.

Vertical bars give the design additional rigidity and needed for docking sheets of plasterboard.

Stands

Racks should be installed in terms of strictly vertically.

To determine the location of the jumper (vertical, which is on the opening, we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be at the doorway, and at the site of its edge, we have a jumper so that the edge of the sheet comes from the middle of the board.

Tip!
To connect the bars, it is better to use metal corners and metal lining designed to assemble rafting systems.
These attachments are reliable and designed for significant loads.

Each item is required to check the level: racks must be strictly vertical, jumpers are strictly horizontal.

You should also try to arrange the rack so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of HCL. It will save time and material.

All manipulations on the assembly of a wooden frame are easy to produce with their own hands, and alone. We advise newcomers to work with the assistant, better if it is a technically competent or experienced person.

Wooden frame is sinking as well as metallic.

Work on the frame of the framework of the carcass sheets of GLC is the topic of a separate article. It can only be said that the plasterboard on the wooden frame is mounted as well as on the metal.

It should also be noted that the price of the profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and it is more expensive to deal with poor-quality, so think well.

Tool

To work, you will need a standard set of tool for wood.

So, you will most likely need such a set:

A hammer;

Wood hacksaw;

Screwdriver;

Shock drill with a brown on concrete;

Construction knife;

Plumb;

Level;

Pencil;

Roulette;

Corolnic;

Fomka;

Screwdriver;

Coated thread;

Screws;

Dowel;

Brackets.

If you do not have a shock drill or a screwdriver, they can be rented in a construction supermarket. Also do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for sound insulation.

You can use thick mats to not lay cotton in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a grid or another based, preventing stratforming material.

Conclusion

Build a wooden frame under GLC - work is simple and not requiring special skills. This instruction gives a general idea, for greater visibility, we recommend watching a video on this page, which will help to understand many nuances and the intricacies of the construction of the structure.

Plasterboard is great for interior wall decoration. With it, you can make absolutely smooth walls, while just a real professional can achieve such a result. Plasterboard is suitable for brick, block and frame walls.

There are three ways to attach this material to the wall. One of them is to attach plasterboard on wooden slats. In this way, you can hide running on the wall of communication (for example, pipes and wires), as well as make additional heat and sound insulation.

Tools and materials:

1. Rake from soft grades of wood. The optimal cross section is 100 × 50 mm or 75 × 50 mm, but it can be less.
2. Screws for plasterfarton
3. Screwdriver
4. Dowels for fasteners in the wall
5. Drill

Council. Under the sheets of plasterboard can be laid and thermal insulation material. For greater effect, heat insulating plasterboard can be used.

Process:

1. In chalk, draw the line markings for fastening the plates around the perimeter of the wall and for vertical plates. Calculate the interval between vertical slats in such a way that the edges of each leaf of plasterboard came to the middle of the next rail. Saw cut racks at the required length.
2. Fresh racks to the wall. Use a dowel and drill.
3. Between the attached racks from those de wooden plates, set the struts. They must be fitted under the size of the sheets of plasterboard in such a way that the joints between the sheets accounted for the middle of the strut. However, nail the rails at different heights, otherwise you will not be able to drive nails in their ends.
4. In those places where the rakes are easily adjacent to the wall, put the backup of the tree or drywall.
5. When the grid is ready, we begin to secure plasterboard. Recall its edges should take place exactly in the middle of the racks and spacers. For fasteners, it is best to use screws - they will reduce the risk of splitting the plasterboard. Stamp fasteners through each 15 mm and so that the screws of the screws are recessed below the surface of the material. In those places where the sheet of plasterboard is too large, cut it under the desired size with small teeth.
6. Close the joints between the sheets of plasterboard. Use the adhesive reinforcing tape for seaming seams or a conventional tape by sticking it with a small number of plaster. If the gaps between the sheets are more than 3 mm, close them first with plastering solution, and then ribbon. Cover the tape on top of the putty so that it turned out a very sacrifice of an inconspicuous exaltation along the seam. After grinding and painting it will be unnoticed.
7. Wall ready! Now it can be covered with plaster or make a conventional finish, for example, we glue the wallpaper.

It will only be about the longitudinal (vertical) cladding scheme. Approximate cladding sequence on wooden frame as follows:

1. Place the position of the bars of the crate and cut them in size. When cutting racks, it is necessary to subtract from the length of the wall thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars.

2. Install racks and upper and lower horizontal bars.

3. Install short bars over door and window openings, slightly shifting vertical short bars so as not to make cuts in drywall.

4. Refrigerate (glue GLC) window and doorways inside. Needle plasterboard sheets on the walls.

5. Nail sheets around window and doorways.

6. Close the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls to the finish finish.

Walls made of brick and masonry are rarely perfectly even, so in the manufacture of plasterboard facing, all irregularities should be taken into account. Much difficulty is the alignment of the bars of the crate of vertical and horizontally. If this procedure does not pay due attention, smooth and smooth walls will not work.

Mounting the frame at an uneven wall is performed so. First detect the irregularities of the wall. The exhaled lower horizontal timing of the future frame is placed on the floor in the wall and spend a line along its outer edge. Perform markup at a rack with a pitch of 600 mm. Then the racking wheel is pressed vertically to the wall and the position of the end is noted at an equal intervals when it comes out the line on the floor. Connect the marks of the second line parallel to the first. Attach the support bar to the floor so that its outer edge goes along the outdoor mark. Install vertical bars on the support, aligning their external surfaces, inserting, if necessary, gaskets. Equality check with a plumb, level and rule. Fix the horizontal bar at the ceiling level. It is more convenient to first install two extreme racks (vertical bar) and stretch the cord between them. Then set the intermediate racks and check the fixation of the installation on the cord if the floor is uneven, then the support bar is also put on anything in the right places (so that it is installed at one level), and then exhibit all the other bars.

For alignment of the racks, trimming plywood, fiberboard, wood of the desired thickness are used. On the gaskets you can apply a little glue on the tree before clogging for bars. The gaskets are installed in those cases, if the ends of the bar are tightly on the wall surface, and in any of its middle part there is a gap (concave wall).

When deflection on a large segment, the step between the dowels should be reduced to increase the rigidity of the bar.

If there is a smooth floor and if it allows its area, you can simplify the process of mounting the frame. For this, the internal perimeter of the wall is carefully measured. Then the frame was collected on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm for a length and 5 mm to height. Brux bars are inserted into the resulting frame with a pitch of 600 mm, and they are attached to nails clogged through the frame in the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the collected frame lies face on the smooth floor - in the assembled form it will already have a flat surface. Therefore, the step of the reconciliation of each bar in terms of the level is thus excluded. It remains only to insert the collected frame at the perimeter of the wall and, together their edges, fix the dowels with screws or dowel-nails.

Marking for ordinary (universal, etc.) Dowels are performed using an electric drill. For this, the bar is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. Asking the partner to reliably hold the bar in its original position, drill through holes in it in an 800-1000 mm increments in such a way that the output drill makes marks on the wall. The diameter of the drill must be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the applied screws. After that, drill the wall to the installation of the dowels. Holes of the dowels after they are installed accurately coincide with the holes in Broke.

In the event that the attachment of the bars will have to be performed without a partner, they come so. Find the point of the location of one dowel. Drilled in the wall (floor, ceiling) under it the hole in which the dowel is installed. After that, the bar is fixed on one dowel and holding it with one hand so that it does not shift, drill through holes in the bar until a clear mark on the wall is obtained. After that, the bar can be removed or simply turn around the axis of the installed dowel (pre-twisting a little screw) so that access to marked places has opened. After that, the holes are drilled and the remaining dowels are installed.

It is most convenient to perform the fastening of the frame to the brick or concrete wall of a dowel-nail. The bar is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, drill through holes in it with a step of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill the hole in the wall. The diameter of the drill with a winning tip is determined by the dowel diameter.

Fastening the frame to the wooden wall is carried out with the help of long galvanized nails.

Facing the walls of the room with plasterboard can be started either from the angle or from the window or door opening. For fastening the sheathing on a wooden frame, screw screws 35 mm long with a step of fastening 250 mm or galvanized nails (better than special serrated) 40 mm long (for sheets of 12.5 mm thick) with a 100 mm fastening step. GLCs are fixed around the perimeter and to intermediate racks (see Fig. 47). The indentation from the edges is the same - from the edge of the lined edge of the edge of at least 10 mm and from the edge of the unclosed edge of at least 15 mm. Work is carried out from the angle in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. Nails are driven until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the head of the nail or the screw should not break the paper. There should be space in 5-7 mm for decoration of seams between sheets of drywall. Between the floor and the end edges of the plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm. Between the ceiling and the upper end edges of drywall sheets, it is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws should be covered and cleaned.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to overlap the entire room in height, the sheets are placed with the displacement of adjacent end joints (rotary), and in the places of compounds, the transverse bars are mounted.