How to make entrance wooden doors with your own hands. Doors with their own hands - a variety of door structures and their manufacture (119 photos). Assembly of the frameless door of the wood array

Any house requires protection from the outside world with its views, cold, noise. Performs such a task the entrance door is metallic or wooden. The modern market offers various models, but many men can make it independently without spending a lot of money.

Any room must be equipped with a high-quality entrance door. The photo shows the option of a wooden model.

The entrance wooden door with their own hands is the topic of our article. Is it possible to make a high-quality door design at home? What is required for this? Is it suitable for the protection of housing?

Entrance wooden door do it yourself: different technologies

It is installed on any building, even the utility rooms. It can be a wicket, wooden in a bath, a barn and, of course, to the house. The facades from the array are shielding or solid (fillety). Each design is made of solid or prefabricated wood.

Shield doors are the simplest for making with your own hands. Having available:

• carpenter tools;
• several boards of one size;
• bars;
• nails;
• loops;
• saws.

You can collect the product in a couple of hours. Consider the design features of the shield input model.

Shield entrance door: different ways of manufacturing with your own hands

The design is pretty simple. The basis of the shield collected from the boards of equal width, length, thickness. The billets must be processed so as not to induce your hands in the manufacture and use. If there are boards of different lengths, they must be blown up to the desired size. For the shield you can use a solid sheet of plywood or chipboard if the block is further enhanced.

The shield door can be collected in different ways. Swaps and booms are one of the options for mounting the canvas.

For the assembly, the timber will need, which will be painted on the details for the strapping: the knaps, pitch.

• Knocks are horizontal elements to which the shield is fixed. The key must be two pieces for the top and bottom of the shield.
• The boilers are a connecting element installed by the rotor with the keys diagonally. If the inlet wooden door is made of boards, the pitch will ensure the preservation of the design proportions. The canvas does not behave and do not bother.
• If you use only the knaps for the stiffness of the door, they will have to be installed around the perimeter of the shield, which will increase the load on the loop and the box.

Choose suitable loops. Their assortment is large enough. Consider the opening method (right or left) and the weight of the canvas. The loops must be reliable.

Prepare the lock and handle to install on the canvas after the construction of the design. The choice depends on its functional one. It will be to fencing the house, bath, shed, garage.

We prepare the material according to the input opening pre-produced measurements.

Pick up the boards of the same size, decompose on the floor and connect into a solid canvas with the swords and troops.

We lay out parts on the floor and proceed to the assembly.

• The traditional method of assembling the board door is the connection of the elements of nails and a hammer.
• Modern technologies allow you to speed up the process and ensure the best combination of boards with bars. Take the drill, screwdriver and screws on the tree of the desired size. Collect the shield into a single door, checking all the stages with the level and tape measure.
• In former times, experienced joiners collected a product without nails, making a special washed in the boards for the installation of the knap in the recess. Such technology requires experience in circulation with cleaner objects and a good eyelary.

Input design from solid sheets with their own hands

The panel types of facades include and sets collected from solid sheets. For example, take Phaneur.

1. I focus sheets and timber on the size of the opening.
2. Putting the knaps on the perimeter.
3. Muspille fix the dog diagonally.
4. Fix out the outer sheet of plywood on the frame.
5. We lay insulation, insulating layer inside the future door.
6. We sew the frame with a second sheet of plywood. One-piece shield design is ready.

A facing material can act any construction sheet capable of giving an aesthetic appearance.

The panel door can be collected without nails, if you can handle milling tools and have a good eye.

The wooden shield door requires processing by means against rot, moisture. After all, the tree in its properties is influenced by the environment, from which it should be protected to extend the service life. You can use a colorless varnish or a special paint on wood.

After completing the assembly. You can safely make installation in the opening. (See Installing a Wooden Door).

Such a door design is not reliable due to the weakness of the facade. For solid protection of the house from foreign people, a more modern and robust entrance wooden door is required. It can also be made with your own hands, but putting more forces and using a stronger array. Consider the panel door.

Written door do it yourself

The panel door is a more serious design for the input opening. It can be installed both in a private house and in the apartment.

Pilented doors are more reliable for input opening. May have a different appearance.

It consists of a bar around the perimeter called the strapping. It has a special groove with one inside, a profile for insertion. The inner part of the canvase is a panel from an array, plywood, a thin chipboard. Insert can be;

• solid / composite;
• smooth / convex;
• deaf / with glass.

It is put in the groove of the box or using a special decorative lining, which is attached with the help of glue (mainly used in the design with glass).

When making a panel door, use high-quality wood.

In the production of the panel facade, with your own hands, take the tree of a more dense texture, so that the door does not behave over time, it does not swell or not cracking from the temperature drop. It is often used pine as a more affordable material, but it is advisable to take oak, cedar, larch.

Deciding with what it will be, buying everything you need:

• bar for horizontal and vertical strapping racks;
• insert in accordance with the desired drawing of the facade;
• accessories;
• fasteners;
• finishing material and means.

We proceed to the assembly with your own hands.

Wooden panel door collected. The case remains for the processing of wood with special compositions, varnish or paint.

Work with glass insert and type panels

Choosing an entrance wooden door with a glass or a sophisticated panel pattern, the assembly process can be slightly complicated.

The glass requires an additional frame that will ensure the stability of the glass in the frame. It is possible to secure it with a santa method using the strokes, small nails or glue. But it is better to use the internal crate having a different pattern of openings.

Glass insert requires an additional crate to not fall out of the profile at a strong impact.

The lamp is performed from thin bars, fixed in the main strapping. Next is the glass. The edge can be additionally treated with silicone to be more reliable. From above the glass is closed with a symmetric overlay, which is attached to liquid nails or silicone.

A special approach is also necessary for the pilient doors, the insert of which is assembled from individual associates to a special lock. The drawing can be diverse. Such blanks are better to buy in the finished form than customized each groove and profile yourself. Usually, when assembling, you need to add a central vertical timer to which the set of insertion elements will be inserted.

Otherwise, the production of the input wooden door of the viper type is carried out by its own hands according to the above algorithm.

Any wooden door can be collected by their own hands if you have a great desire and the ability to use tools.

It is especially worth noting that we make the entrance door, which should be securely protected from cold and noise. Designing the door block, refer to the thickness of the timber, so that two panels (outer and internal), insulating layer can enter the grooves, insulation. So you will provide the house with a high-quality door.

If the wooden door for the entrance is too thin, the canvas must be insulated, hide the slots from the penetration of drafts. If there is a desire to save the appearance of the door outside, warming up from the inside by any convenient way:

• leather
• to lay the layer of heat insulation inside the strapping and on top to close the sheet of plywood or thin chipboard (use the tips from our article "how to insulate the entrance door").

Having considered several methods of production, the entrance wooden door with their own hands becomes accessible to any man seeking to create a comfort in the house on their own. Additionally, we recommend viewing video instructions on how to make the inlet wooden door at home.

Despite the fact that today the doors are made from a wide variety of modern materials, wood products are still the most popular. Wooden doors are installed between rooms, at the entrance to the house or economic buildings, as well as they are mounted on all functional rooms of the bath. The popularity of wooden doors remains unchanged due to the warmth of the material and its environmental purity, as well as the amazing natural beauty of textural patterns.

To figure out how to make the door from the boards with your own hands, you need to decide where it will be installed. The fact is that all wooden doors, from the simplest to elite copies, are made of boards, but the material can have a different quality and processing. There are also significant differences in wood rocks.

In addition, the door canvases are divided into types of their design, and to determine which one is more suitable for a specific case, you need to know what they represent themselves.

Types of door design

Wooden doors can have several types of structures - these are viper and massive, shield (hollow and solid) and frame.

Massive doors

Massive doors made of thick tank or planed boards connected to one plane and thus forming a smooth surface. The resulting shield must have horizontal or inclined jumpers that will make the design more rigid.

For massive doors, wood of various breeds and quality is used, depending on where they will be installed. For example, if the input massive door is manufactured, then for it you need to choose a member of the dried, dense wood of high quality expensive breeds, such as oak, cedar, larch and others. They have a beautiful noble factory and dense structure. With appropriate processing, such a door will last a long time without deformations and damage dangerous for wood insects.

The massive door can have a different design - as a simple, which is suitable for installation, let's say, in the steam room, and a complex, having a relief design suitable for the entrance to the house or apartment.

For the bath doors, less expensive wood can be used, such as pine, spruce, linden and others. The only thing to take into account, manufacturing the door design for wet premises is a thorough treatment and water-repellent means.

Massive doors can have their own design features, but one remains unchanged - this is a canvas that should always be made from a natural tree.

Pilencated door

Pilented wooden doors are also made from boards or timber, but its glued variant is more often used, which is made of separate wooden parts - lamellae. They are glued together by creating thick boards or bars.

The glued bar serves as a rigid frame for the canvas - it makes vertical and transverse elements from it, as well as furnaces. Separate elements were bonded earlier with spikes, today it is most often used. Making the door, you need to consider the fact that the more the crossing will be provided in the canvas, the stronger it will be. A peculiar frames are formed from the bar in which panels are installed, made of thinner boards, MDF, coated with natural veneer, or plastic, imitating a wipe flange. Pilenk usually has a thickness constituting ⅓ from the thickness of the glued timber. The panels are fixed in the frames using a veneered or natural staple, which gives the appearance of the panel door aesthetics, smoothing the sharp edges of the frame.

Valid doors can have a very diverse design and will decorate any apartment. As can be seen from the design scheme, the bulk of the door canvase has a small thickness, so they are most often installed in the openings between the rooms.

Therapy design is made of durable materials that are not inferior in their durability with a wooden array. Sometimes this kind of doors has even higher cost than the massion canvas. The pricing is based on the volume of wood, boards and bars are made, and how the veneer is covered with a panel door.

It should be noted that the panels are often the canvas and completely made of natural wood, only manufactured according to a similar constructive scheme.

Shield doors

Shield doors can be called a budget option, since their price is much lower than the two types mentioned above. They are made of cheaper material - this wood is low quality and fiberboard lined with veneer or laminate. Qualitatively made panel structures have a quite aesthetic appearance, and if their surface is still lined with natural veneer, sometimes they are very similar to massive doors.

Shield doors are solid, hollow and finely flowing. They differ in the fact that in some inner space completely filled with an unedged bar, bonded between themselves, the second consist only of strapping and external sheaving, and the third has partial filling.

A typical hollow shield door consists of two transverse - upper and lower, as well as side bars, which are trimmed with fiberboard, clapboard or other materials. Sometimes inside the design, horizontal and vertical crossbars are installed, as they give the design additional rigidity. This door can already be called frame.

Small-profile design of door canvases have different content of the inner space, and a variety of materials can be used to fill - it can be plywood, MDF plates, cardboard, chips or foam.

The solid panel doors are called those that the filling of which is a kind of shield made from non-edged or edging bar, tightly bonded.

Schemes of panel structures of different fullness are presented in the pictures:

Shield door circuits - 1

BUT- solid design;

B. - finely filling;

Shield door circuits - 2

IN - filling with empty veneer;

G. and D.- finely filling with pieces of plywood or MDF;

Shield door schemes - 3

E. - filling with chips;

J. -Figration with paper or cardboard cells;

Z. - Shield, partially filled with solid bars with a place for installation of glass or plywood sheet.

Shield door circuits - 4

AND - filling out parts of the canvas veneer;

TO and L. - filling with plywood or wood-fibrous elements;

M. - Filling with paper or cardboard cells.

The frame of the panel door is facing various materials on both sides - plastic (laminate, melamine), wood-fibrous plates, plywood or veneer.

When cladding shields with high-quality plywood with a beautiful textured pattern, they can be additionally issued by profiled overlays.

• To obtain a high-quality panel door, the cladding of the structure is carried out by glued plywood from the linden or alder, which is mounted in one or two layers, each of which is 2 ÷ 3 mm. Material made of alder and linden does not give deformations, which creates a reliable basis for

On the top of the knocked layer, the finishing plywood from the valuable tree species is fixed. The direction of the fibers of the decorative layer of plywood must be perpendicular to the material of the supplied material.

Often on the knocked layer, instead of plywood, natural veneer is fixed from expensive wood. Its layers, and there can be 3 or 5, they are also placed perpendicular to each other.

• Sometimes the solid shield from the glued timber is immediately made with a veneer, it is applied in 5 ÷ 10 layers to create a total facing of 2 ÷ 4 mm.

The end sides of the shield must be neat and solid, so if the door is made without a frame, then smooth, well-processed bars are used for them, which in color and texture will correspond to the finishing of the remaining planes.

Facial bars are bonded with a shield of bellows and glue.

This type of doors, depending on the finish can be a bathroom or utility room, as well as in quality. However, it should be noted that the shield doors are absolutely not protected, so there are few on the role of the entrance. Most often, they are used for this only as a temporary option.

Now that the designs of all kinds of doors are known, you can decide which one is suitable for a specific case, and then move to preparatory work and manufacture.

Door manufacturing tools

In order to make any model of a wooden door, you will definitely need high-quality tools and a steady large workbench, on which the assembly of all elements in a single canvas will be assembled.

From the tools you need to prepare:

• Hand mill - This device will help make the door of the door smooth, cuts any holes and grooves, comespace the straight corners of the design, processes the stroke and much more. If the goal is set to make the door looking professionally, then without this tool it is not necessary.

• Plancock for leveling the end of the door.
• Clamps for tightening glued web.
• Hacksaw.
• Basic and hand saw.
• Sties of different sizes.
• Rubber and ordinary hammer.
• Building level.
• Rule, roulette, folding meter and pencil.
• Sandpaper and grinding machine.
• Screwdriver.

Necessary materials

For the manufacture of doors, the following materials will be required:

• Wood - its backstage, quantity and sizes are selected for each door separately. The choice of this material will be said below.
• Carpentry glue.
• Saws of different lengths.

In addition, for each door of the door, it will be necessary to prepare specific materials that will be mentioned in the sections on the manufacture of certain door canvases.

Selection of sawn timber

It is necessary to know how to choose the blanks for the web, otherwise the ready door can be deformed, and it will not be possible to correct this defect.

The main criteria when choosing wood are as follows:

• The breed of wood is chosen at will and financial capabilities.
• For doors, the so-called business wood is purchased, as it has a small amount of bitch, and if they are still there, then a small size and light color.
• So that the tree "led himself" is good during processing and period of operation of doors, when buying, the material must have residual humidity 12 ÷ 15%. It is recommended to choose the material extended in a special drying chamber. The wood treated in this way is not deformed and will not fuse, since the camera creates the optimal temperature effect on its fibers.
• Buying boards, they must be checked with evenness. To do this, they should be put on a flat surface and try to combine with the help of locks "Paz-Schip". Boards should not be curved or behaved.
• The thickness of the door boards can be 25 ÷ 50 mm, depending on where it will be installed - on the entrance or between the rooms.
• Before starting work, it is recommended to go through all the surfaces of the plaques with a grinding machine with fine-grained emery paper. If this device is not, then you can make a device for grinding yourself from a conventional wooden bar, securing on it sandpaper.

Making a massive door

Whatever the door model from the massive board is chosen, the basis for it will serve a boardy shield that needs to be properly used. Otherwise, wood can "lead", and such a design will be impossible to operate.

The door made of massive boards is manufactured for installation between rooms or to install on the entrance to the apartment, house and household building. Naturally, the appearance of the product in various situations will be different.

• For the bath, the simplest design is usually used, in which the shield assembled from the board is bonded by transverse and diagonal elements.

On this drawing you can see different options for fasteners:

General view of the door;

I - a door having a Z-shaped strapping;

II - X-shaped strapping;

III - dual Z-shaped strapping;

IV - dual X-shaped strapping;

V is a triple strapping.

To enter the house or for installation in residential areas, doors must have a more aesthetic look. Therefore, the collected shield is processed by a special way to achieve its perfect evenness and smoothness. Further, the markup of the selected relief pattern is applied to the cloth, and then the relief is cut with a mill.

Illustration
	For the manufacture of the shield, pinned boards are taken, having a "spike groove" fastening, or unplanned. The thickness of the boards should be at least 25 mm, well, but if the door is made to enter the apartment or the house, the board is taken even a thickness of 40 ÷ 60 mm. Doors for cozpostroops or baths are most often made of a unfolded boards using one of the above shifts. For doors installed in residential premises, a toll-toll board is taken.
	Next, the prepared boards are placed and cut into the desired segments.
	The next step from the board is collected in the shield. At the same time, you need to lay them in such a way that the drawing of annual rings is directed in one direction. If pinned boards are taken for the manufacture, then from the extreme element of the spike shield is neatly cut off, and the end is gently processed. When assembling a shield, pinned boards are assembled using and the castle compound "Paz-Schip" and joinery glue. Unfolded - just glued together.
	Work should be carried out on a large desktop - workbench, where it is possible to place the door cloth completely, and put it perfectly smoothly.
	The assembled and glued panel of the canvas is pressed in several places with clamps and is left to dry.
	The finished dried shield is processed by a mill, to the perfectly smooth state. At the same time, the joints between the boards become practically imperceptible.
	It should be noted that if necessary, a massive door is assembled from two or even three layers of boards, each of which is pasted perpendicular to the previous one, and all the resulting design is clamped into clamps. As a result, a sufficiently heavy powerful shield having a thickness suitable for installation on the entrance to a house or apartment is obtained. It is especially possible that the door is made, on which any embossed drawing will be filled out or cut out or cut out.
	Next, you need to build a shield with one of the types of strapping. The simplest of them are two - three crossbars installed in the upper, middle and lower parts of the canvas. In this case, the details are prepared, the length of which will be equal to the width of the manufactured shield. Their possible form and dimensions are shown in the figure on the left. Such a configuration must be observed for easy entry of the crossbar in the groove, which will be carved for it in the door canvas.
	Then there is a markup of places on the door of the door, where the grooves for crossbar will be carved. The finished transverse elements are applied to them and outline with a simple pencil. In addition, you immediately need to determine and note the depth to which the grooves will be selected in the shield boards. The recess can be ⅓ or ½ the thickness of the board.
	According to the plates made on the shield, the transverse grooves of the desired shape and size are cut out. The milling cutter is capable of making their surface perfectly smooth, so the crossbars will enter their "nests" fairly easy, but very tight. Additionally, the grooves are wetted with carpentry glue. You can cut the groove and manually - the oppreels are first made at the desired angle, and then the wood is selected by the chisel.
	When the grooves are prepared, the crossbars are inserted into them on the one hand, and then gradually rushing inside using a rubber hammer or a conversion.
	In the collected form of a canvas, fortified by cross, will look like this.
	If it is planned to decorate a ready-made shield with some kind of relief pattern, then its outline should first be applied to the surface with a pencil using a template. After that, on the hand mill, the cutters of the desired configuration are alternately installed, and the selected pattern is cut without a rush.
	The finished canvas should be treated with antiseptic means. If the door is planned to be installed on the entrance of the house and, it will be to be influenced by external factors, then besides the antiseptic you need to use water-repellent compositions. In the manufacture of the door to enter the apartment, the wood is recommended to cover with antipirens.
	If there is a desire to change the color of the canvas, make the door more "noble" or artificially "aged" it, then for this you can use the body of a filling. The verse is covered with wood into one or more layers, seeking the necessary darkening of the texture. After drying the composition, the door can be cut into several layers of varnish.
	On the finished canvas and the door frame there is a markup to install the selected model of mounted loops. Then hinges are mounted in marked places.
	The next step on the canvas and on the door frame is placed the location of the lock, after which it is crashed into the design and set the handle. The latter step is hung the door in the doorway and conduct an accurate finish fit, if necessary.

Making a panel door

Make a panel door independently will not be difficult. The main thing is to have all the materials, a good tool at hand, to withstand all sizes, observe the growing edges and forward the corners. The amount of work will depend on the design of the selected door option. For example, for a solid panel door, as well as for the one that is made of a massive board, it is necessary to make a shield, only it can consist of low-quality wood and processing. If it is planned to make a small cloth, then the same bars are used, but they are not fastened into a solid surface, but with gaps.

Based on the design description, it can be made in three ways:

• The first is that a frame frame (blockage) is first assembled, and then its internal space is filled in completely or partially, that is, inside the frame is created solid or small shield.
• The shield can be made and separately, and then it must be fixed in the frame, after which it is finishing material.
• The third option is performed in the reverse order, that is, the shield is first made, and then it is squeezed by the frame and facing.

Each of the ways has its advantages and cons, and which one choose - the master chooses independently. Below, for example, the first version of the door manufacture will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	So, the frame (blockage) is made first, which will determine the size of the canvas. For it, it is necessary to prepare a timber, cross section, approximately 30 × 120 mm, which is cut into the size of the future canvase (length and width).
	Prepare a bar, you must select the connection that will be used on the corners. There are several types of compounds, but the simplest can be called the one that is called "in Polterev". The grooves are first placed at the edges of the prepared timber, which must be done very precisely, and then easily selected using the usual manual hacksaw and the chisels. The depth of the groove should be equal to half the thickness of the bar. The grooves are missing and combined on the corners, and they need to be monitored using a construction corner, as the bars must be perfect perpendicular. During the junction of the frame, the frame must lie on a rigidly smooth surface, and after connecting the angles, it is left to dry on the same table without shifting.
	After drying the glue on the compounds, they must be copied with the bellows for which through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are dried. Then, they are neatly driven by glue treated with glue.
	One side of the frame is needed immediately after bonding and drying the frame to bore one of the selected materials - it may be plywood, as described above, but more often, the Fiberboard is chosen from the considerations of efficiency. A sheet carved on the desired size is laid on a flat table, then the frame is placed on it and its location is placed on the facing material. After that, the frame is removed, and joiner glitters are taken to marked strips. The frame is then returned to the place and fastened to the facing material. In this position under the press, the whole design should be good. It should be noted that very often for the rigidity of the frame structure between its side bars, one or two crossings are mounted
	Further, the inner space of the frame is filled with one of the selected fillers' materials - it can be a timber, MDF segments or other retained woodworking waste or low quality wood. So, in principle, all shield structures make, and they only differ in the type of filling. All filled elements are glued together, and also glued to the bottom sheet of facing material and the bars of the frame. Before covering the whole design of the entire design, we must give glue well to dry.
	This scheme presents a frame-shield design, and the inserts are clearly visible on it, which are usually installed in hollow and fine-frequency versions. These elements are designed for hard-link lock or door handle.
	While driving glue, you need to prepare material for facing the outside. For this, the perimeter of the framework is measured and one or two canvases of the finishing material is cut out for this size. If you plan to stick two sheets, the usual Fiberboard is first glued, and on top of it - a laminated sheet or a veneered plywood. It is desirable to send the door to the press, which can be constructed independently, for example, closing the polyethylene film with a web, then lay plaster plates on top.
	If you wish, instead of a laminated sheet for the trim, you can use racks from a natural tree, but they will have to fasten to the frame, drumming the hole "under the tilt" to drown the hats of the screws. Subsequently, these holes are filled with a mixture of sawdust and joinery glue. When it dies, the surface should be treated with sandpaper.
	Then, all the angular parts and the ends of the door canvase need to be processed with a milling thing - only then the door will look high quality and neat. A lock or handle-latch is crashed into the finished door leaf, and the loops are fixed. At the end, the door is suspended in the door frame.

It should be noted that the framework doors are made in the same way - the internal space is additionally strengthened by a frame from a bar or boards. But before making a frame door, you need to make accurate calculations and make a drawing.

Manufacture of a panel door

Pilented doors have the most complex design, and without special carpentry tools and stable skills of working with them, during its manufacture, do not do, as items require special processing.

Therapy doors consist of several parts that can be made of massive boards or glued bars and plywood. Naturally, they differ significantly at the price. You can find a lot of different models on sale, but for self-making in the absence of significant experience in carpentry art, it is best to choose the easiest option.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation
	The first thing to be done, having decided to make a panel door - it is to draw up a drawing of the future design and to put on it the dimensions of each of the parts. On this drawing, the door with four panels is represented: a) general view of the door; b) spike nodal compounds of the top, middle and lower crossing: 1-rack; 2- top cross; 3-closed cross; 4- lower cross; 5- upper furniture; 6 - Lower Midconn; 7- upper panel; 8 - lower panel; 9 - sword; 10 - groove.
	To make a frame, a ram will be required - it can be made of a massive board or from a glued timber. With the latter, it will be more complicated with the latter, since due to the presence in its structure of glue, it has greater rigidity. The timber will be needed for vertical elements, cross-country and furnace. The timber must be treated with a mill, making the groove with one of its sides. And sometimes the curly sections immediately do, which will be replaced by the chair. If it is planned to use a stroke, then the surfaces around the groove must be left smooth.
	Then, you need to work on crossings, cutting off connecting spikes on both sides and finishing all edges with a mill. At the ends of the crossbar, the grooves are made for installing sealers and mines. The end side of the upper and lower crossing, which will go to the door end, remains smooth and solid.
	In the size of spikes on the cross, in the vertical bars make slots to assembling the door. Before making them, the bars are carefully placed.
	For the manufacture of fillets, which will be installed in the grooves and bars, it will take plywood, a board or chipboard. It should be noted that all sealer parts or several of them can be replaced with glass. If glass is selected, then the strokes will also be needed, which will additionally fix the glass panels in the grooves and become a relief framing for them.
	Pilenks can have an absolutely flat plane, and after mounting into the cut-off grooves, they are framed by a figure cut-out stroke. In another case, the panels are processed around the perimeter by the milling agent, with which you can achieve the desired embossed configuration. If the second option is selected, the plywood or boards having a thickness greater than for flat panels are purchased for their manufacture, which can be 20 ÷ 25 mm. The edges of the sealer are separated so that their thickness is 1 ÷ 2 mm less than cut into the grooves cut into the transverse and vertical bars, as it should be fluent in them.
	All prepared door elements are processed by antiseptic compositions and dried.
	Before assembly, you need to check all the elements once again and, if necessary, additional marking. The assembly of all parts into one canvas is carried out on the table, in a horizontal position. All spikes, before installing in the grooves, are stolen with carpentry glue.
	The cloth assembly is made in such a sequence: - In the grooves of one of the vertical bars, according to the markup, all the details are pasted - cross and panels. - Next, the furnaces are installed, the spikes of which are also lubricated with glue. - Then, the remaining panels are mounted in crossbars and furnaces. - After that, the remaining vertical timber is pasted.
	- Folder strokes are latter. If necessary, a rubber hammer or a wooden mall is used to install spikes in the groove. After that, the cloth gently bursts on all sides, and its corners are checked by a building. Then, it is compressed with clamps to dry.
	On the finished door canvase, markups are made to install the fittings - mounted loops and lock or just a door handle. After that, the parts are installed for fitting on the canvas, but they are not fixed - they are mounted only after the final finishes of the surface.
	The door finish can be made acrylic varnishes or water-based paints. If necessary, the door surface can be made darker, and emphasize this beauty of the texture pattern of wood. To do this, the simulator is used, which can be applied to one or more layers. From above, watered wood can be covered with colorless varnish or hot wax. When the coating is dry, fittings are installed.

The position of the loop is as follows as shown in this scheme. In addition, the figure shows the dimensions of the gaps that should be observed when installing the canvas in the door frame.

These parameters, in principle, are identical to the installation of any types of cauldons in the door jamb.

In conclusion, it must be said that we make a wooden door yourself, without having experience in the joinery, is quite difficult. Moreover, it is almost impossible to do without special tools that there are far from everyone in the home "Arsenal". Therefore, if you want the door to look perfect, it is best to order her professional master or buy a ready-made option.

Video: Master class on the manufacture of a pale door of a wooden array

But if it was still decided to experiment or eat an insistent desire to learn how to produce always sought-after carpentry products, then it is necessary to purchase a quality tool, both manual and electric (including, be sure to work with a set of cutters) and learn to work with it. Only after everything starts to get successfully, you can try to make individual details. In any case, if there is a desire to do this work, it means that you need to try your strength.

Learn how to make yourself, from a new article on our portal.

For the manufacture of doors, manufacturers are increasingly used by composite materials, plastic, steel. However, the tree did not lose their popularity. Durable and warm material is ideal for entrance doors to the house. From the boards independently assemble the canvas for household buildings and baths. Make a wooden door with your own hands easy. It is only necessary to have a good board and a set of tools.

When producing wooden doors, you need to know the advantages and disadvantages of the material. The final result depends on this. The main difference of wood is its hardness. Soft wood species are easily processed, but less resistant to moisture. Such material is suitable for interior doors. The solid wood of wood to handle a hand tool is difficult, but the material is more stable to moisture. Such wood is suitable for the manufacture of entrance doors.

Speaking of wood rocks, it is worth considering the resinness of the material. Larch takes the first place in this regard. The product will be for a long time in dampness. Resin protects against rotting.

The following requirements are presented to the board of the board:

• minimum number of bits;
• wood moisture in no more than 15%;
• perfect evenness.

For economic buildings, used used material taken from the disassembly of old buildings. Beautiful doors to the house is better made of a new board.

Large breeds

1. Birch Pretty solid and difficult in processing, but has an attractive texture.
2. Beech It is characterized by increased strength, but deformed when moisture change.
3. Alder Soft and high humidity quickly rotates.
4. Oak Solid, it has a property to split, but resistant to dampness and beautiful.
5. Nut It has an interesting texture, it is easy to handage, moisture and mechanical impacts are not afraid.
6. Maple Moderately solid, processed well, the average opposes dampness.

For the manufacture of inlet wooden doors, oak or beech are more often used.

Coniferous breeds

1. From coniferous breeds in demand is considered pine. Soft wood is easily processed, but badly opposes moisture. The material is better used in the manufacture of wooden interior doors.
2. Larch It is characterized by a beautiful texture and great resinity. The hardwood is perfectly opposed to moisture, which allows the use of the board to assemble the entrance doors.
3. Spruce Such, lighter and softer pine, by strength a little inferior to her.

Instruments

Production use special machines for the manufacture of wooden doors.

• Pleismus We are necessary for processing the board. The most productive are double-sided planing machines, cleaning the workpiece for one pass.
• Without milling machine The manufacture of wooden doors is impossible. With it, they make castle connections on the boards, choose chamdes, process curly blanks.
• When gluing on a wooden frame, the lining applies press.
• Circular saw Disseminate the board to the desired size.

To make your own hands on home wooden interior doors, expensive machines no one will buy. For dissolving the board, electric disk saw.

Choose the grooves and process the surface of the blanks manual milling.

Additionally, under hand you need to have:

• drill;
• screwdriver;
• wood hacksaw;
• shlifmashin;
• emines, Cyans, corner, level, roulette.

To paint the door leaf, it is desirable to use a compressor with a pneumatic pistol.

Necessary materials

For the manufacture of a wooden door with their own hands, the following materials will be needed:

• dry tank board;

• self-tapping screw;

During the purchase, the thickness of the board is selected taking into account the installation location of the door canvase. For interior sash, it is enough wood with a thickness of 25 mm. For the front door use a 50 mm thick board. After purchasing wooden blanks, it is desirable to dry, setting on a flat surface using linings.

Additionally, the inlet wooden door is bought in a mortise lock, loops, handles, observation eyes. For interior sash, it is enough to take a loop and a handle with a snatch.

How to make a wooden door?

Collecting a simple wooden door with their own hands, drawing, the scheme is not needed. It is enough to measure the height and width of the door canvase. The dimensions of the sash are calculated so that it enters the grooves of the door frame, and around 5 mm remains around the perimeter. In the manufacture of a wooden door, the main elements are prepared: a pinned board with a "Schip-groove" lock for the canvas and crossbreaks from edged blanks.

It consists of a step-by-step instruction of the assembly with their own hands of a wooden door from the following steps:

• boards are collected in the height of the future canvas and lay out on a flat surface in compliance with one direction of the figure of annual rings;
• spikes with grooves are lubricated with joinery glue, connect all the boards, squeezing the clamp tightly;
• after drying the glue on the extreme bar from the end of the product, the spike is cut off, and the entire surface of the shield is subjected to milling and grinding.

• That the sash does not fall apart, the design is bonded by cross. The edged board is attached to the form of a trapezoid, the canvas make grooves to the depth of 1/3 of the thickness of the wooden billet and lubricate them with carpentry glue. Coasts are inserted into the deepening, bolding in the Cyonya. For reliability, you can fix with self-draws.
• In order for the sash longer to serve, antiseptic impregnation is performed. If you need to install on a wooden windows door, a window is cut into the shield with an electroller. In the center of the end, the entire perimeter of the patch is nourished - focus for two stalks. After installing the glass windows, the edges are framed by a stroke or decorative plank.

If you need a thick web, the flap is made of two layers. In the two-layer technology of manufacturing a wooden door, the perpendicularity of the boards of both shields is observed. Glue them with a joinery glue.

Shponovy

Collect warm wooden doors for a private house without much effort from boards with swords. The manufacturing technology consists of the following steps:

Usually, massive doors are made of oak, beech or cedar for entering the house. The canvas can be reappeted under the old days or give it a modern style. A simple wooden door will fit the bath or barn, with her hands from a pine board.

Shield

Shield door - budget option. The frame is a rectangular frame from the board. On both sides are the sheets of fiberboard. In industrial environments, apply additional veneer from veneer or laminate. Another feature of the door design is the filling of the emptiness of the frame insulation from Woodworking Waste: sawdust, chips, small chips, corrugated cardboard.

Consider how to make a wooden door from the boards, do it yourself step by step:

• in the size of the sash, a sheet of fiberboard is cut, as well as blanks from frames for frame;

• all elements are unfolded on a flat surface, connecting with a joinery glue and self-pressing;

• the lower shield from the Fiberboard with a wooden frame formed emptiness that fall asleep sawdust;
• the upper part of the frame is lubricated with glue, they laid the second shield from the fiberboard and pressed the entire sash with the press.

On the finished door canvas, you can stick veneer on top, and sharp corners rounded with a milling corner.

Filönchatoy

The design of the fillenteed doors is a frame from a bar, inside which a set of horizontal crossing is inserted, vertical jumpers, as well as furnaces. As a result, cells for inserting Filinics are formed. The technology allows you to make a wooden door with glass, plastic, and other material. The strength of the canvase depends on the number of crossing.

Filuenka is cut into such a size so that it is included in the cell with a gap of 2 mm. Glass inserts or DVP are immediately fixed by strokes. The edges of the thick fillery from plywood or chipboard are milled until they are thinner on the grooves cut on the frame. The latter fasten the framing staps.

Decor

The decoration of the homemade wooden door begins with grinding. Next, the processing goes an antiseptic that protects wood from dampness and pests. After drying, the surface of the door is covered with two layers of primer or plaque. The finish layer lies with paint or varnish.

If there is a professional tool, as well as certain skills, the canvas are decorated with threads, stencil cut out and even make up a mosaic.

Street repair in the apartment, I want not just to update the wallpaper, but also to completely change the interior of the rooms. Therefore, it is often a desire to change all the doors that only have in the house. And put something unusual, comfortable and beautiful. Many go to the store and buy ready-made doors, but most interesting to make them with their own hands. Any homemade master can be engaged in independent manufacture, for this you need to decide on their design, select the material and purchase the necessary tools.

How to carry out the calculation of doors

All work on independent production begins with the execution of calculations. Initially, you need to measure the doorway, in which the doors will be installed. Measurements are held sequentially:

There are standard dimensions of door cloths: 60, 70, 80, 90 cm wide and up to 2 m high.

But your door can be made individual size, if it allows the discovery or method of opening: Sliding or barn doors do not depend on the magnitude of the movement, since they are behind it.

Sliding doors are easy to use: they do not occupy space when opening

When calculating the box, it is necessary to decide: do threshold or not. Usually, the thresholds are installed in the bathroom and the kitchen, but it all depends on the preferences of the owner. Also in advance are determined with the design of the door - from one or both of both sides - the number of cases depends on this if the door is conceived with inserts.

The larger in the door inserts from glass or other materials, the greater the case will be required to consolidate them.

Additionally, the required number of pens, loops or other fasteners based on the design of the opening, as well as locking and locking devices, if necessary.

Required tools

For self-making doors, the following tools will be needed:

If there is a threshold, then the canvas is made from all sides by 2-3 mm less than the door box, and in its absence it is left below the gap of 5-10 mm, so that during the door opening does not damage the floor covering.

Selection of material

It is important to decide: what makes the door and what material to use for the exterior decoration.

The basis for the interior door can be the following materials:

• natural tree - working with it is easy, the doors are obtained by durable, beautiful and durable. Disadvantages: heavy doors, wood absorbs moisture. Often, only the framework is made of wood, and other materials are used for cladding;
• MDF-stove - the door can consist entirely of plates, but if it is trimmed according to the frame, the corrugated cardboard or other filler is placed inside. This is a cheaper material, no moisture is afraid;
• Chipboard - consists of compressed chips glued with synthetic resins;
• plastic, glass, aluminum or stainless steel - are usually applied in production, and at home made the door is difficult.

Gallery: Doors from different materials

Bivalve glass doors are made of tempered glass and decorate drawings Two halves of a double plastic door with colored glass can be arranged differently if one of them is rarely used A barn door of matte plastic is perfect for the bathroom or dressing room The door-compartment made of aluminum frame and colored plastic is beautiful, easy and convenient to use Ordinary fillane doors can be made with a glass insert and allocate in the interior with a bright color. Arched door with decorative finish will be an independent decoration of a large room A deaf wooden door with inserts from thin sheets MDF harmoniously fit into the classic style room

Most often, interior doors are made of wood with their own hands, so it is necessary to determine which better to choose wood. Consider different breeds:

• pine is easy to process, but over time heats up; Differs low cost;
• alder - more porous and soft wood, easy to process, but unstable to rotting;
• bereza is a dense and viscous wood with a beautiful structure, but short-lived;
• oak - durable and resistant to mechanical damage, but in the work is complicated, as it gives cracks on the fibers;
• beech - durable, but afraid of temperature and humidity drops;
• larch - with a beautiful structure, easy to process, durable;
• walnut - with a homogeneous structure, durable and durable;
• klyon - resistant to moisture, easy to process and polish.

For decorative lining of the door leaf and boxes are used by materials:

• natural veneer - thinly cut sheets or strips of wood, which are glued to any base. The veneer allows you to imitate an array of wood;

  Natural veneer has a textural surface, easily pasted on wood and leaving restoration

• ecoChpon - compressed products consisting of glued wood fibers. The ecoschpon is similar to natural, but it is less;
• laminate - film made of multiple paper layers. High-quality laminate looks beautiful and serves a long time, and poor-quality - over time peels off;

  Vinyl laminate wear-resistant, suitable for any surfaces, but fades under right sunlight

• plastic - sheets of synthetic polymers. Plastic has moisture resistance and is not afraid of temperature drops, but at strong heating it allocates harmful substances;
• paint - acrylic, alkyd, nitrocracy;
• varnish - allows you to maintain the structure of the tree from moisture.

The choice of materials depends on the preferences of the owners and the design of the doors.

Video: Characteristics of doors from different material

How to make the door do it yourself

Typically, they make swing doors with their own hands, so consider the manufacturer's sequence on their example. For self-making interior doors, you will need:

• board: 40 mm thick and 100 mm width, not more than 6 m;
• LDSP: It will be used to insert inside the door leaf. Instead, you can take, for example, glass;
• self-tapping screw (or wooden concirm pins), glue, varnish or paint.

The technology of manufacturing such a door is simple. Work is performed in several stages:

1. Preparation of the board. By exact dimensions, the board is cut into 4 parts: the upper, lower and side sides of the door canvase. The grinding disk of the grinder polished wide surfaces. End can not be processed.

   Boards are first cut in size, and then grind

2. Milling. Hand mill rounded the ends of the boards. On one of the ends there is a groove for installing LDSP. The groove must comply with the thickness of this sheet. It is usually done with a width of 16 mm, and a depth of 15-20 mm.

   Manual milling machine is used to process ends of boards and cut out the grooves

3. Trimming ends. The ends of the boards at an angle of 45 degrees are trimmed or manual saw. At extreme points of the racks, the length should be equal to the height of the door leaf, and on the extreme points of the upper and lower boards - its width.
   

   It is necessary to cut the boards at an angle of 45 degrees so that parts of the door canvases are connected to each other, without cracks

4. Cutting LDSP. The calculation of the width of the sheet: from the width of the door leaf, take the width of two racks and add the depth of two grooves. The length of the sheet is calculated similarly. For the door of 80 × 200 cm, it turns out - width: 800-100x2 + 20x2 \u003d 640 mm, Length: 2000-150x2 + 2x20 \u003d 1740 mm.

   Cutting LDSP can be made independently or order a ready-made sheet according to its size.

5. Pre-assembly. Fabd with rubber Cyans, on a leaf of chipboard carefully put on the boards. The density of fasteners is checked. Then the boards are removed, in them the holes under the screws are drilled in the corners. But you can fix such a door and wooden pins confirm.
6. Cutting locks, latches and canopies. It is better to put them on the disassembled door to accidentally not damage the grooves inserts by pressing.
   

   Loops, handle and lock is better to mount on the door in a disassembled state so as not to damage the insertion

7. Painting and assembly. After painting and varnishing boards, the door canvas is once again going and fixed. Boards are fixed with grooves on LDSP. If wooden pins are used instead of self-tapping screws, they are lubricated with glue and inserted into the prepared holes.

An important step is to decorate the door. If instead of painting, the coating with veneer or laminate is selected, it is better to trust this process to specialists.

Video: Simple Tsargian door do it yourself

Door to the steam room do it yourself

For the steam room, you can make the door from the wood array. The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Cutting boards. You will need pinched boards and a 30 mm thick beam. To calculate the number of boards, you need to know their size and size of the door canvase. If the door is 2 m high, then the boards are collected for the length: 2000-2x30 \u003d 1940 mm.
2. Build boards. Boards are laid out in a row, aligned and glued with furniture glue. Tightly shuffled with inquiry and compress clamps before drying the glue.
   

   Boards are connected using grooves that are missing glue

3. Preparation and fixation of timber. On the perimeter of the canvas on the self-tapping screw, the bar is mounted, sawed by two long and two short blanks.
4. Strengthen door. To enhance the design on top of the boards, two transverse strips are installed.

   To enhance the door cloth, transverse staps are installed: they are attached to the self-tapping screw or glue

5. Furnitura. Mix loops and handles. Wooden handles are selected for the pair, since the metal is strongly heated.
6. Treatment. Transparent formulations of deep impregnation are used, which reliably protect the tree and do not distinguish harmful substances.

   Use lacquer or paint for coating doors parcels dangerous

The main node of the sliding door is the sliding mechanism, it can be purchased in any construction store. More special accessories for sliding doors will be needed. The design consists of the top guide or complemented by the bottom.

Retractable doors allow you to save free space.

The length of the guide strip must be twice the width of the door line, otherwise the door will not fully open.

The main thing for the skipping door is the small weight of the door canvase if it is attached only on the top guide.

Manufacturing process:

1. Creating a door leaf. It is made of wood array with inserts, but in a lightweight version, so that the weight of the door does not violate the operation of the mobile mechanism.
2. Creating a groove for the guide. In the lower door, the door is made for the lower guide. It cuts over the center of the end of the door leaf to a depth of 3 mm.
3. Rollers are screwed to the upper end of the canvas.

   The lower retainer does not allow the door to pop out from the guide

4. Installation of fittings. Cuts the lock and put the handles.
5. Fastening the guide profile. To the wall above the doorway horizontally fastened guide. On the one hand, it should perform 5 cm, and on the other - on the width of the canvas.

   Top guide is set horizontally: accuracy is checked by a construction level

6. Fastening stop. The bottom guide or focus on the floor is mounted, which will ride the door.
7. Installation of doors. Door rollers are inserted into the upper guide and are closed by the limiters, and the door is put on the slide with the groove.

The door-penalty on its design is similar to a sliding or sliding option. His difference is that the door leaf is hiding into the wall.

If the wall is nonsense, then it is disassembled, and on this place there are a volumetric pencils in which the door canvas hides.

Door canvas hiding into the wall - it is convenient in small apartments

Stages of the creation of Door-Penal:

1. Creating a door leaf. It can be done independently or acquire ready.
2. The facilities of the false walls from drywall. First, the framework of metal products is created, there is a place for the door inside. Niche should be wider than 20 mm cloth so that the door does not scratch and walked freely.

   Falc wall frame assembled from metal profiles or from a wooden bar

3. Fixing guide. The upper guide is fastened inside the false wall, the door canvas hangs on it.
4. Adjusting the door stroke. The free move of the doorway is adjusted: it should not hurt the frame and get to the floor.
5. Frame covering. After adjusting the door, the frame of the foam frame is carried out on both sides of plasterboard, chipboard, osp, etc.

   The cutting of the frame is carried out only after installing and adjusting the stroke of the door canvase

Double door

The design of the double door does not differ from the single bed. Only its total size is greater, and the castle connects the sash to each other.

These are two canvases installed in the general door frame. Two-handed doors are opened in different ways: like swing, sliding-retractable, pendulum or harmonica.

Bivalve plastic harmonica door is convenient for the kitchen: rarely used, so it will last long

The width of the double door is usually in the range of 130-190 cm, it allows you to make up wide pastes.

The double door fit perfectly into a large hall and convenient for reception

Features and sequence of the installation of a double door:

1. Selection of sash - for this design, wooden, plastic, glass, metal and other canvases are used. They can be purchased ready or independently. The main condition is to determine the size of the door frame and divide it in half (or on 4 parts, if the door is foldable).
   

   Bivalve folding door of four canvas perfectly complement the interior in rural style

2. If the door with the lock is in the classic style of execution on it, a decorative element is installed, overlapping the gap between the canvas.

   Sliding doors do without a lock, so they do not need an additional element closing the central slot

3. Installation - mounting the door frame and hanging the canvases is no different from the single design. But it is desirable to install a double-minded door with a partner.
4. Installation of accessories - inserting locks and handles is carried out after hanging and adjusting the doors.

Ambar door

Barn doors help to place a room under ancient, are convenient to use.

The barn door is easily mounted, takes little space and easy to operate

They received their name due to the fact that earlier the similar sliding structures were used on barn and grain cars. Modern door canvases are made in different styles.

Ambar bivalve door from a tree in a classic style will even suit small apartments

Such doors are attached to both sliding mechanisms and rails or butterflies.

Fastening for barn doors are made in different stylistic designs so that you can pick them up under your interior style

The barn door is beautiful in any performance.

Transparent bivalve barn door looks weightless and fills the apartment with light

Sliding barn doors have acquired its popularity due to such advantages:

• seat seat: the canvas goes away along the wall;
• beautiful: Often the barn door acts as the main element of the interior;
• fashionable: moving doors put in modern housing;
• wide capabilities: barn fasteners are capable of withstanding high weight; You can expand the doorway by increasing the open space; Or separate the wardrobe doors from the room. And in the studios apartments, such a door will also perform the function of the mobile partition.

Ambar door with translucent canvas well use as a cabinet sash or a built-in wardrobe room

Do it yourself make a barn door easier from the wood array. The manufacturing process will be the same as the assembly of the door for the steam room. But the difference is that the room door can be covered with varnish or paint.

A barn door can be painted under the color of the walls, and it will create a relaxed atmosphere in the home

Video: barn mechanisms

The roto-door combined the disintegral and sliding design.

It opens both in one and the other side. Due to the fact that after rejection, it is also shifted from the center, the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room saves.

Roto-door is convenient in layout of small apartments and passing adjacent rooms

For the rotor doors you can make an independently door canvas or buy ready. Since there is a complex opening mechanism, it will have to be purchased in the store, do it yourself will not work.

The roto-door combined the sliding and swing design, which allows you to open it and move towards the door jam

Disadvantages of rotary doors: high cost, the opening mechanism does not withstand greater weight. Therefore, the door is used for beauty and does not carry protective functions.

A large roto-door is made of plastic so that the opening mechanism is not deformed under the severity

The rotary door is installed by professionals, but you can perform its installation and your own hands, if you follow the recommendations for the process. Roto doors are usually purchased during overhauing repair, as it is necessary to form a doorway for them. During the installation of the rotary door, such nuances should be taken into account:

1. Accuracy of measurements. The design between the box and the web should have a gap of not more than 5 mm, so it is important to make measurements correctly.
2. Correct installation. During the installation of the door frame, it is necessary to strictly observe the level of verticality and horizontality, otherwise the mechanism will still eat, the door will move badly.
3. Partition. Its thickness along the entire length should be the same, otherwise the work of the door will be broken.
4. Adjustment. Important process: performed in all directions of movement of the door canvase. After adjustment, it should be easily moved and closed tightly.

If you decide to independently install the roto-door, it is necessary to comply with the technology of work, but the assembly of the rotary mechanism is better to trust the specialists.

Video: Montage of the Roto Mechanism (1 part)

Video: Mounting of the Roto Mechanism (2 part)

If you wondered: how to make interroom doors yourself? That or you are an incorrigible needlewool, not a thinking of life without whether something is not masked, or your designer plans are so ambitious and enchanting that among thousands of models of finished doors you could not choose the appropriate. And in that and in another case, it costs soberly to evaluate your capabilities, have experience working with wood and a carpentry tool, to be prepared for the fact that the door to the sketch in the sketch will differ much from the drawing.

In the 21st century, the independent manufacture of doors is exotic, akin to the weaving of the lapes or baskets from IV roths. But since there are people who still remember how it is done, it means that there is a need for their skill.

Types of interior doors

It is not necessary to overestimate your potential and take for the manufacture of scribbled doors, if you do not have access to professional carpentry equipment. Manual or electric saws, electrolls, drills and grinders it is impossible to achieve the required accuracy of the manufacture of parts.

It is easier to make a panel interroom door. The manufactured door leaf can be equally suitable for hinting doors, and for various sliding options. At the same time, you will absolutely not be tied to existing size standards in the house-building and you can make doors under any doorway, with any, the most intricate form. Although how the Hobbit is in Nore - Round.

When you have decided on the concept of the future door, you need to perform the measurements of the doorway, in which your masterpiece will be installed.

Required Material

To make shield doors from a wide variety of materials: wood, plywood, fiberboard, plastic panels, drywall. At the same time, they can be both frame and frameless.

A barcass can be used a bar not the highest quality, the only requirement is to be dry and did not have visible curvatures along the length and twisting along the axis. As a filler between facing layers, a mineral insulation or polystyolster can be used, according to SanPina, suitable for use in residential premises.

If you want to make a panel frameless interroom door, then you will need to calculate the required amount of sawn timber on the area of \u200b\u200bthe door canvase and translate the obtained value into cubic meters, as in most stores the sawnwood is released in cubic meters. It is not difficult to do it.

With the standard size of the interior door 800x2000 mm, its area is 1600000 mm². Standard thickness in GOST - 40 mm. We multiply 16000000 x 40 \u003d 640 000 000 mm³. And since 1 m³ contains 1 billion millimeters, then divided the value obtained 640 000 00: 1 000 000 000 \u003d 0.064 m³.

Similarly, you can make the calculation of the need for filler.

Required tool

For work it will take a fairly large number of diverse tools. It is desirable that you were:

• Circular saw (Option - electrolovka, although even saws you never get).
• The electric drill (an option is a screwdriver, powerful enough to drill holes and use perovy tree drills).
• Electroshlypho machine - If you plan to make a glued panel door from a wood array.
• A wood saw manual.
• Set of chisels.
• Set of pen drills on wood.
• Screwdriver with replaceable bits.
• Clamps (4-6 pcs.).
• A hammer.
• Kiyanka.

• Plancock with blasting widths at least 40 mm.
• Rubber spatula.
• Paint brushes with different widths.
• Pistol for mounting foam.
• Pistol for sealant (acrylic).
• Measuring tools: Level, Roulette, Corner Plumbing or carpentry, metal line 1000 mm.
• Consumables: self-tapping screws, nails, anchor, plastic and wooden dowels.

Making frame panel door

The frame shield door involves the presence of a frame of a tree having a contour along the perimeter of the door and several transverse elements that bind the long sides of the door in order to impart the stiffness of the design and the possibility of mounting accessories. Usually one additional elements are located at the level of the future door handle.

Initially exactly size cut from plywood, (laminate, DVP, MDF) two identical cloths exactly in the size of the door. Then two long and three-four short blanks are cut out of the bar or board. When cutting blanks should strive for the maximum accurate observance of the angle of 90 ° in the transverse elements, as they must be tightly along the entire width of the workpiece to lay down to vertical elements without forming a slot. It will affect the geometry of the door and for its strength.

The simplest is the adhesive connection on furniture spikes (wooden). To do this, from the end of the short (transverse blank, 2-3-4 holes are drilled (depending on the width) with a depth of ½ the length of the spike, lubricate them with carpentry glue and clogged with a hammer until a feet to the hole.

The openings from the inside of long blanks are drilled similarly, at the level of the horizontal framework parts. To be 100% confident in the fact that the holes coincide the drilling of all the holes are carried out according to a predetermined stencil: which can be made from an aluminum corner with a shelf of 40 mm. or any sheet fine metal.

After installing spikes on both sides in short (transverse parts), they are laid out onto a flat surface, protruding spikes and ends of parts are lubricated with glue and the long part is applied to them so that the spikes are entered into the drilled holes. Cyanka long detail fears evenly along the entire length until the sips are completely immerse. Similarly, the second long detail is glued. After that, it is necessary for long clamps or a device for tightening the floor laminate to pull the long details with the highest possible effort.

When gluing, it is important not the amount of glue, but the force of compression of the glued parts!

After drying the adhesive, the bottom of the trim panel is glued, then the filler is stacked in emptiness and is also fixed with glue and the assembly is completed with the upper sheet with sticking. Immediately after that, it is necessary to ensure a dense pressing of the glued panels, placing the cargo on the door or pulling the clamps through the underlined transverse boards below and at the top.

When the glue dries, the cloth cleanse the sandy paper from the glue fluxes, they grind irregularities along the edges of the blanks, if necessary, the perimeter is ground, pouring existing gaps and irregularities using a rubber spatula. After drying, the primer is once again treated with shallow sandpaper and wipe with a damp rag to remove dust.

The canvas is ready for further decoration selected material or for painting.

Assembly of the frameless door of the wood array

For such doors, lumber is selected with the necessary thickness and preferably smooth on the texture, without a large number of bitch and defects on the surface. If possible, calibrate in thickness (no more than 1mm discrepancy.). As the basis, the sheet of plywood or other material protrudes. It produces a layout of a listed loss-long over the length so that it is exactly covered with the entire surface of the sheet.

The sheet on which the layout was made is lubricated throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe joinery glue and it is tight to each other, the chosen blanks of the sawn timber are laid out, while they are lubricated with glue end sides adjacent to each other. After the fulfillment of all billets, they must be pulled by clamps or a screed for the floor boards (laminate) and put the load on top of it or also through the boards sublated across the doors to pull the short clamps.

After drying the adhesive, the door is processed by a planer along the long side - it is removed to the required width of the volunteer excessive lumber, then grinding the grinder to completely align possible differentials on the thickness of the pavement blanks.

This turns out the door on one side with the basis, and on the other hand, a wooden surface from an array of a tree that can be stored in natural form or is also covered with any decorative material.

Plastic panel doors

Production of such doors is suitable for rooms with high humidity (baths, toilets, storage rooms for vegetables and balcony cabinets, etc.

Essentially, these are the same frame panel doors, the difference is that the assembled frame must be less than the dimensions of the door frame by 15 -20 mm. This is necessary so that after assembling the coating consisting of plastic panels, it was possible to sew the door around the perimeter with a thin wooden rail, which will close the cellular structure of plastic panels on the ends.

Before starting the installation of plastic panels, it is necessary to treat the framework of solutions by imbuming the development of mold and it is desirable to impregnate with hot oil.

After mounting the panels and feeding around the perimeter of the rail. Such doors do not need additional finishes or painting. It will only be necessary to cover with a varnish rail or paint it under the color of plastic panels.

Let's summarize

Homemade interior doors are more likely to whim. Those rare cases when in the store it is impossible to choose a ready-made option, or order the manufacture of doors on individual sizes of professionals - the reason to change the designer concept of the premises than to take the time for such a time-consuming work with an unpredictable result.