How to sheathe a corner of a room with clapboard. How to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard. Briefly about siding

Decorating a room with clapboard is the best option for those who want to carry out repairs in it without wasting time on tedious and very dirty work that is associated with leveling the walls. The structure of the lining has an excellent appearance, reliably protects the building from the outside from blowing.

Compared to other materials for decoration, it creates an environmentally friendly, healthy indoor climate. The article will tell you how to sheathe a room with clapboard.

Types and advantages of lining

Before sheathe a room with clapboard, you need to familiarize yourself with its advantages and features, learn about the possible varieties.

Advantages:

No rough surface finishing required.
Panels can be easily assembled, at the same time an absolutely smooth surface is formed without traces of installation of fasteners.
When a gap forms between the wall and the lining, all wires and pipes can be freely hidden in it, moreover, this gap perfectly absorbs noise and is additional thermal insulation.

For cladding, plastic, wooden lining or MDF-based lining is used.

The advantages of plastic are:

Moisture resistance.
It does not require special care... Dirt can be removed quickly and easily with a damp cloth.
Wide range of... Plastic is easy to cut and any color, which allows you to choose the desired design option without much difficulty.
Affordable price... This is due to the cheapness of raw materials and low costs of material production.

The disadvantage of plastic lining is not a high degree of environmental friendliness.

For the manufacture of wooden panels for interior decoration, wood is used from:

Ash... There are small vessels on its surface, and the cut is a kind of original ornament.
Maple. It has a noble texture and a wide range of colors.
Nut... Has sufficient hardness, it is easy to machine. The color scale and structure of the material is determined by the region where it grows. During operation, it is not subject to deformation.
Cherries... The noble shade is easily recognizable, and over time the wood begins to darken.

Unlike plastic, it is a natural material with high environmental properties. In addition, the wooden lining is quite durable and has an aesthetic appearance.

The disadvantages of the material include:

Not a sufficiently high degree of moisture resistance.
Susceptible to the negative effects of mold and mildew.
The high cost of products.

The lining, made on the basis of MDF, is a budget analogue of wood panels. For its manufacture, sawdust is used. In terms of naturalness, the material is not inferior to wood; synthetic resins are not used in its production.

For gluing the elements, a special substance is taken - ligin, which protrudes from the sawdust when heated. On the outside, paper is applied to MDF boards with a pattern imitating a wooden surface. From above, the parts are varnished, which gives the paper strength.

How to prepare the lining for installation

Clapboarding a room should begin with its preparation.

For this:

The material is covered with special agents that prevent any damage to the wood, which can lead to:

rotting;
the appearance of mold;
accumulation of harmful insects.

Tip: The wood can be treated with glaze or a special stain, which will protect its surface and give the desired color to the products.

The lining dries well.
It is brought into the house for 24 hours. This will be needed so that boards made of such a material can adapt to the temperature that is in the room, do not dry out and do not subsequently shrink.
Installation is carried out on the lathing, which serves as the supporting structure for the entire sheathing.
On such a frame, slats can be purchased ready-made or cut with your own hands from inch boards with an electric saw with a small section of the required length.
The lathing with self-tapping screws or screws is securely fixed to the wall with a pitch of fasteners up to 60 centimeters.
During the construction of the lathing, the supporting structure is leveled. For this, a plumb line or a building level is used.
To increase the durability of the cladding, a gap is left between it and the wall, which will become a kind of ventilation hole.
If necessary, the surfaces of the walls are insulated, which increases their soundproofing. For this:

insulation is laid;
covered with a vapor barrier.

A crate is being built for the installation of the lining.
The structure is covered with a primer, which will protect it from the occurrence of mold and mildew.
The process of installing the lathing can be seen in the video in this article.

In what ways is the lining fastened

How to sheathe a room with clapboard?

The video shows what methods of fastening the material exist. After reviewing it, everyone can choose the most convenient and familiar form for fixing it. Lining is a plank, with a recess on one side, and a spike on the other, which is inserted during installation into the recess of the next element.

Fasteners are:

Outside.
Secret.

Fixation can be performed:

With nails.
Decorative screws.
Stapling staples.
Kleimers.

Tip: For any method of fastening, you must try to do everything carefully so as not to damage the lining, not to split the wood, this can spoil the appearance of the surface. At the same time, the nail head is hammered completely into the wood with a hammer, but you need to make sure that the groove does not chip, this can weaken the fasteners.

Methods for fixing the material:

With the hidden method of fixing the elements, the lining is mounted to the lathing on the side where the groove meets the spike. If the fasteners are allowed to be visible, the plank is nailed with small-headed studs scattered randomly throughout the cladding. This quick and easy method can be used when sheathing utility rooms.
Usually, a more complex, but neat method is used: nails are nailed into the existing grooves on the lining. In this case, the fastening will practically not be visible, and the method itself is called hidden installation.
High-quality fastening of the material to the lathing is carried out with special devices, which are metal clamps for the lining. Grips are made of galvanized sheet, they have different shapes and sizes. Their choice depends on the type of material and the thickness of its grooves. On the one hand, the parts are cut with teeth into the grooves on the board, on the other, they are attached to the crate. Clapboard clamps are usually purchased with a set of nails.
Sheathing the room with clapboard is performed using stapling staples using a special pistol. A rigid bracket punches a groove on the lining and fixes it to the lathing.
A reliable fastening method is the use of decorative screws. Even a beginner can do it neatly.

Tip: Before constructing the supporting structure, the direction of the cladding must be determined. This is due to the fact that the lathing is constructed perpendicular to the sheathing of the material.

Installation of lining

There are two ways of clapboarding:

Horizontal... This method is used to expand the room, which will create a sense of spaciousness in the room.
Vertical. Allows you to visually raise the ceiling and make the room higher.

The house is sheathed systematically, board by board.

How to make horizontal cladding

You should always start attaching the lining from the ceiling to the floor, and the grooves should be directed downward. This will prevent moisture, debris from accumulating, which can clog the grooves in the board, which will lead to premature destructive processes during operation, and the skin will quickly deteriorate.

Work instructions:

With horizontal installation of the lining with clamps, the fasteners are inserted into the recess for the previous board, nails or self-tapping screws fasten it to the lathing bars.
For a high-quality installation of the lining, it is necessary to check the evenness of the wall with a level or plumb line after each installed ten elements.
Before fixing the last facing plank, it must be adjusted in width with a hacksaw or circular saw.
The part is nailed down and the gap is protected with a special skirting board.
For wall cladding block-house clapboard, with an imitation of a rounded log, installation must begin with the groove up, which will hide the joining points.
Fitting the parts to each other to prevent the formation of cracks must be done with a hammer, and to avoid damage to the material, use a panel cut.
The block house is fixed with a self-tapping screw to the battens of the lathing at an angle of 45 degrees, and the caps are closed with a groove of the next lining element.
To decorate the corner between the panels of the block house, you need to insert a processed timber. In this case, no gaps will be visible in the opening, and there will be no drafts in the room.
It is not necessary to paint such a wall, an interesting natural color and coziness will give the room a natural wood color. It is enough to clean the outer surface of the casing from the dust formed during operation. But you can varnish it (see), which will protect the wood from pollution.

How is a block house cladding a room with clapboard? The video shows with all the details.

How to make vertical clapboard cladding

The vertical cladding of the room starts from the corner.

In this case:

On the back wall of the part, a kleimer is installed in the groove to fix the lining and nailed to the batten rail.
In the corner, the first board is fastened with nails, their caps will be covered with a decorative corner. If there are no such decorative slats, the nail heads must be nibbled off with side cutters.
The installation of the elements is continued by inserting one plank into another. When fixing the material with clamps, the fasteners must tightly connect the boards to each other, they will form a single canvas.
The installation of the lining on the wall is completed, as in the beginning, - the board installed last is nailed down.
To give a finished look, the sheathing is equipped with slats.

Tip: All joints, existing external and internal corners must be closed with special decorative slats, plinths and corners.

Installation is carried out in the direction from the window opening to the wall opposite to it, as shown in the photo. This will reduce the shadows between the material panels.

The clapboard paneling of the room gives it coziness and extraordinary natural warmth. A house built of brick, stone and other materials is strong, but with cold beauty. Its cladding with wooden clapboard outside (see) and inside allows the building to be as close as possible to the natural and fashionable eco-style, to create the impression that the house is completely built of wood.

Durable, beautiful and comfortable facing material - lining - can often be found in the interior decoration of apartments and houses. It can be used both in the country and when decorating a sauna; in some cases, metal or plastic lining is used even for facades. The secret of the beauty of the walls, trimmed with clapboard, is fully revealed only with strict adherence to the technology of laying this material. Therefore, the question of how to sheathe the clapboard surfaces inside the house with your own hands correctly is very important: you can spend time and work, but not achieve the desired result.

The room, lined with clapboard, looks stylish

Choosing a material

If the choice of lining for interior decoration is made, then it is better to dwell on the following material options:

wood;
Fiberboard / chipboard;
MDF panels;
plastic.

It is no coincidence that plastic is put in the last place: despite the obvious cost-effectiveness, rich color palette and ease of use, it is still not environmentally friendly and mechanically strong enough to completely cover the walls with it. In addition, the material, although it is sufficiently resistant to high temperatures, nevertheless does not differ in increased fire resistance. Already at 100 ° C and above, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) - the main part of plastic lining - emits an unpleasant odor, and at even higher temperatures begins to smolder.

The metal lining is too heavy to sheathe a room with it. In addition, in the warm season, a room decorated with such material will heat up very intensively.

Of the remaining three options, preference in most cases is given to wood products. The fact is that the walls covered with clapboard made of pressed wood-shaving materials must subsequently be painted or covered with transparent varnishes imitating a particular type of wood. This will delay the interior decoration work for a while.

Fibreboard lining must be varnished

If the choice is made towards wooden lining, then in advance you should choose the optimal color and texture solution of the panels. With a great positive superiority over other materials in terms of environmental friendliness, excellent protection against noise, and low thermal conductivity, lining made of wood is a rather expensive material.

Therefore, if you decide to sheathe the house with wood clapboard with your own hands, then you should focus on the highest quality grades of material - Extra, A or B. Class C lining will fit for finishing the technical premises of the house - a pantry, a hallway.

In addition to the class of finishing, the type of wood is also important. For example, softwood lining is easy to stack and provides the healthiest environment. A room lined with such material will never leave the aromatic smell of resin.

Getting ready for styling

First, the room must be prepared for laying: carry out all the internal wiring, mark the places for sockets and switches. It is worth doing this, taking into account not only the convenience of use, but also taking into account the dimensions of the panels to be mounted, so that later you do not perform unnecessary joints and do not install additional strips. The same goes for places where a window or doorway is located.

It is necessary to prepare for laying not only the room, but also the lining itself. If you have to sheathe the walls with clapboard in the cold season, then the material brought from the store must be kept in the room for at least two days. When cladding rooms with high humidity with your own hands (for example, inside a bathroom), all panels should be treated with moisture-resistant varnish (preferably in 2 layers), let them dry and only then start installation. Between the first and second coatings, the material is emeted to increase the smoothness of the surface.

Of the necessary tools for do-it-yourself sheathing you will need:

hacksaw,
construction stapler,
hammer,
plumb line
level,
core.

To work you need a set of tools

Preparing the surface for cladding

There are few ways to lay the lining inside, you have to choose from three:

vertical;
horizontal;
inclined laying.

The latter method is much less common: it is difficult and costly to sheathe surfaces at an angle with your own hands, but there are no visible advantages, a coma of the original type of finish coating. In other cases, they are guided by the following rules:

For wall cladding in the attic, only horizontal cladding is used.
Vertical cladding visually increases the height of the room.
Horizontal cladding visually makes the room wider.

Having decided on the method of laying, they begin to prepare the walls - they must be even, which is checked with a plumb line. All surface flaws must be eliminated: cracks are putty, grooves are filled with mortar. If the house is not wooden, then sheet insulation is attached to the wall. In combination with an air gap between the battens and the wall, it will serve as an additional barrier against heat leaks.

It is necessary to correctly perform the lathing under the lining

The installation of the battens is carried out in a direction perpendicular to the direction of laying the lining: for example, with the horizontal method of sheathing, the battens are attached to the wall vertically, and vice versa. Wooden bars are taken as battens of the lathing (the wood must have normal moisture content and pre-treated with an antifungal compound). The minimum section of the bars is 20x40 mm.

It is convenient to mark the location of the bars mounted on the walls with a chalk cord or marker. With horizontal lathing, the step between adjacent bars is taken in the range of 400-600 mm, and the first and last row are installed in such a way as to ensure convenient fastening of the lining. For the bottom row, an amendment is made for the subsequent installation of the plinth.

It is worth leaving a small gap (5-10 mm) between the individual bars - this will provide the best conditions for air circulation. All windows and doorways are sheathed with the same bars. If the house is wooden, then the bars can be fastened with galvanized nails; for brick and especially concrete walls, exclusively dowels are used.

The requirements for the pitch of the lathing and the installation of the bars in the case of subsequent vertical clapboarding are similar.

We carry out installation

The first panel of material should be installed especially carefully: its accuracy will determine the quality of all subsequent cladding. They usually start from one of the corners of the room farthest from the door. The board is exposed using a level, and it should be perfectly flat (if there are roughnesses, they should be eliminated with a plane).

Installation starts from the far wall

The panels are nailed to the wooden wall with decorative nails with a coating that matches the color of the interior. If you do not want to see the nail heads every day, you need to use hatless nails that are driven in with a blunt core. That's right, when the angle of inclination of the nail in relation to the surface of the lining is approximately 70-80 °.

Many manufacturers, in particular, euro lining, supply their products with special clamps. These clamps are attached to the lathing bars with nails or staples (in the latter case, a construction stapler is used), after which the panels of the material themselves are attached with their help.

Clapboarding work is completed by the installation of wooden corner elements - in the corners of the room and at the openings.

Today, it is fashionable to replace plastic trim elements with wooden options, which gives the home coziness and warmth. The technology of wall cladding with wood has been known for a long time, but it remains relevant to this day. Today we will figure out whether it is so difficult to wall clapboard with our own hands, and whether it is possible to carry it out without outside help.

What nuances should be considered when working with clapboard

Lining is a board of different thickness, which is made from different types of wood. This material got its name because of the place where it was first applied. These are carriages in trains, the inner walls of which were sheathed with small wooden slats. Today it is fashionable to sheathe walls in a bath with clapboard, as well as in a sauna, or a gazebo.

It must be borne in mind that decorating the walls with clapboard with your own hand requires a thorough, balanced approach. Pay attention to the following details:

Packed boards should be stored horizontally on a substrate.
The humidity of the storage room should be within the normal range.
Do not store when direct sunlight is directed at packages.
It is important to pay attention to the expiration dates indicated on the packaging.

The cost of 1m2 of distillation from linden, which perfectly tolerates temperature changes and high humidity, costs 500 rubles, and to sheathe walls in the main rooms at the dacha, on average, you can keep within a smaller amount - 300 rubles per m2. Important! The price of the material directly depends on the quality of the wood.

On a note! Lining for walls is bought with a margin equal to ten percent of the total area. It must be remembered that the width of each element is measured according to the internal depth, so you need to subtract 10-12 mm of the groove depth.

Lining material processing

After the purchase, the question becomes how to sheathe the walls with clapboard on your own so that the coating turns out to be wear-resistant and beautiful? The primary task is the correct preliminary processing, because at the manufacturer's company no manipulations with the tree are carried out. It is necessary to perform the following actions:

Needle products need degreasing. To do this, it is better to rinse the board with a 25% acetone solution. Then wipe with a cloth soaked in water and dry.

All, even the smallest, damage should be repaired with wood putty. You can buy it at any hardware store.

If you need to change the shade, then you can use a wood stain, or other professional impregnation, which will preserve the beautiful texture of the wood.

What is needed to prepare walls for lining

There are two main options for making a wall clapboard: glue and frame. Note that the first will require you to have a perfectly flat surface. That is why the second method is preferable, which involves the construction of the lathing. Among the advantages of this method is the creation of additional space for warming the room.

In order to fix the lining on the wall, you need:

Tools. In this particular case, you should prepare a drill with different attachments, a plumb line (level), pliers, a hammer, a hand saw or a jigsaw.
Slats for the construction of the frame. For these purposes, solid wooden beams with a section of 30 * 60 mm are suitable. At the same stage, substrates are prepared that are used to level surfaces.
Fastening materials: dowels, self-tapping screws, nails, clamps, if necessary, then hangers for the frame.

Important! Even if the frame method of fastening is used, preliminary preparation of the working surfaces is required. The procedure is simple, it consists in the fact that all decorative elements from the wall are removed, and the defects are erased. After that, an additional primer is applied.

How to create a lathing for lining fasteners

Preparing walls for lining is the most meticulous process. You will have to tinker with creating a custom design. General recommendations:

Treat the timber with refractory impregnation and antifungal agents.
Make sure that the slats are located strictly perpendicular to the decorative boards.

It is necessary to observe a single distance between the rails, the step of which is 40-50 cm.

Leave a distance between the floor and the ceiling. This recommendation is especially relevant for timber houses that are constantly subject to the shrinkage process.
The evenness in the installation of the frame must be carefully checked; for this, plumb lines and a level are used.

If a space forms between the rail and the wall, then it must be filled with prepared dies.

Important! The construction of the lathing makes it possible to equip the walls with an additional insulating layer. The insulation is fixed between the formed racks.

Which fixing option should you choose?

It is important to decide on the method of fixing the board materials. You can sheathe a wall in several ways:

Through view of fasteners. This is the simplest solution and requires little effort. The point is that the screws are screwed directly through the front side. This method involves the application of markings so that the points of the fasteners are located on the same line. In addition, holes are drilled on the wagon board in advance, which will not allow the tree to deteriorate and crack. When screwing in the screws, make sure that their caps are completely sunk into the wood. This is easy to achieve if you drill out the place under the cap in advance with a large-caliber drill. The holes formed are masked with special eraser plugs or rubbed with putty. Among the disadvantages, this method significantly violates the external aesthetic appeal of the coating.

Fastening the lining to the wall can be done with decorative studs. Their hats were originally decorated to match the color of the material.

Hidden studs without caps are a great option. A special feature is that such nails can only be driven in at an angle of 80 degrees. This will make it possible to hide those areas that have been violated.
If you have a professional stapler on your farm, you can use staples for fastening.

Important! It is not worth buying the handheld staple hammer that is sold at every corner, as its use does not provide a secure hold.

With the smallest thickness of the wagon board, clamps are used. The main advantage is that the mounts are invisible.

The method of how to fix the lining to the wall is selected individually, based on the specific situation. But we note that lately it is the kleimers that have been most popular.

Lining fixing process

Before sheathing the walls, the material is brought into the room and left for two days. This manipulation is imperative for the tree to fully acclimatize.

Important! If you rush and skip this stage, then there is a high probability that the structure will warp.

All work must be done at positive air temperatures, and the optimum humidity is at least 60%.

The essence of the technique:

Most often, laying is carried out in a horizontal position, so set the first plank at the bottom so that its pin (groove) looks up.
As in wallpapering, fixing should start from a corner that is away from the entrance to the room.

Check the board thoroughly with a level, taking into account the horizontal and vertical surfaces.
The first board is attached, and the rest are then grooved and then fixed with clamps. be careful with the first and last elements, it is better to fix them with screws.

After finishing, you need to decorate the walls with baseboards and corners, or you can paint the walls from the lining with stain or varnish the surface.

The experience guarantees the completion of the finishing works in a day, even including the installation of the frame. Natural materials will give the room coziness and warmth, will last a long time, and will preserve its beauty.

Video: Do-it-yourself lining installation

Exterior wall cladding is one of the final stages in the construction of a frame house. And here the choice of material is of great importance: the microclimate in the premises, the mechanical strength of the walls, the reliability of protection from moisture and cold depend on it. In addition, cladding serves as the basis for finishing materials, and in some cases acts as a topcoat and is responsible for the aesthetic appearance of the building.

Sheathing gives the structure of the structure a certain rigidity and takes on part of the load. This means that one of the main criteria is the mechanical strength of the material in bending and compression, the absence of shrinkage during operation. Walls should retain their original shape for years, regardless of the surrounding conditions. In addition, the cladding must be resistant to moisture, sudden changes in temperature, and the effects of microorganisms.

Next, you need to pay attention to the ease of installation of the material and its pliability during processing. If you plan to sew with your own hands, this aspect is of great importance, because it depends on it how much time and effort it will take to work. The material should be easy to cut and drill, but at the same time maintain the density on the sections, not crumble, not crack. And, of course, it must be durable so that you do not have to change the skin every 10-15 years.

Material selection

There are several types of materials that meet the specified requirements to a greater or lesser extent: moisture-resistant plywood, DSP, OSB, edged board, fiberboard. They have similar characteristics and are widely used in frame construction. To make your choice, you should familiarize yourself in more detail with the main properties and features of each of them.

Oriented strand board (OSB)

OSB panels rightfully belong to the most demanded materials for the arrangement of frame structures. They consist of layers of glued wood shavings and chips, and in the outer layers the fibers are located longitudinally, inside - transversely. For bonding the chips, synthetic resins and wax are used, which impart water-repellent properties to the finished boards.

Standard production includes the production of these boards in several categories:

OSB-1 is intended exclusively for interior decoration of dry rooms with reduced mechanical stress;
OSB-2 is used for the installation of load-bearing structures in rooms with low humidity;
OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant board of increased rigidity used for the installation of load-bearing structures inside and outside the premises.

In terms of the quality-functionality-price ratio, OSB-3 is the most optimal, and this material is widely used in private construction for wall cladding, the manufacture of load-bearing partitions, and reusable formwork when pouring concrete structures. Plates lend themselves well to grinding, cutting, drilling, hold nails tightly even at a distance of 6 mm from the edge. Such cladding can simultaneously serve as a decorative coating for walls, it is enough just to treat it with a waterproof varnish or paint it.

Benefits of OSB:

dense structure prevents delamination and splitting of the material during processing and during operation;
plates have elasticity and high strength, perfectly resist vibrations, compressive loads, various deformations;
the material is resistant to weathering and temperature extremes;
OSB is resistant to microorganisms, insects and rodents do not like it.

Flaws:

very low vapor permeability;
flammability;
the content of toxic compounds (phenol and formaldehyde).

Main characteristics

OSB (Oriented Strand Board) prices

OSB (oriented strand board)

Cement particle boards (DSP)

This material is a compressed mass of M500 cement and shavings (usually softwood). The standard board has three layers: the outer one is made of fine chips, the inner one is made of coarse. In addition to the main components, the composition contains hydration additives, the mass fraction of which does not exceed 3%. DSP is characterized by resistance to moisture, high strength, long service life. Plates are widely used in private construction, industrial, for work indoors and outdoors.

When sheathing the frame, such plates serve as an excellent basis for cladding, decorative plaster, painting, since they form a perfectly flat and smooth surface. The material undergoes 50 cycles of complete freezing and thawing without losing its characteristics; later, the strength of the slabs decreases by about 10%. Among wood-board materials, CBPB is the leader in terms of environmental and technical indicators.

Advantages:

very low hygroscopicity;
resistance to mold and other microorganisms;
DSPs are not damaged by insects and rodents;
the material does not emit toxic substances;
low thermal conductivity;
Fire safety.

Flaws:

mechanical processing of plates requires significant efforts;
DSP is heavy compared to other materials;
when cutting and drilling plates, a lot of fine dust is formed, so you need to work in a respirator;
high price.

Specifications

Fiberboard (Fibreboard)

The material consists of sheets of compressed shavings, usually coniferous. In the process of pressing, the raw materials are highly heated, which makes it possible to achieve maximum density without the use of adhesives. Due to this, fiberboard belongs to environmentally friendly materials, and therefore is suitable for outdoor use and for decoration of residential premises. The shavings contain natural resin, which acts as an antiseptic and protects the boards from mold.

In terms of strength, fiberboard is noticeably inferior to natural lining and OSB, but surpasses them in terms of heat and sound insulation properties.

Windproof plate "Beltermo"

Now on the construction market, fiberboard is represented by insulating boards of several well-known brands, the most popular of which are Beltermo and Izoplat. For cladding a frame house, plates with a thickness of at least 25 mm are used, thinner sheets are used indoors.

Advantages:

light weight;
low thermal conductivity;
ease of installation;
the material does not exfoliate or crumble;
high vapor permeability;
resistance to moisture and microorganisms;
lack of harmful substances in the composition.

Flaws:

high price;
prolonged stay without decorative trim causes slight deformation of the sheets;
fiberboard outer sheathing requires spacer braces in the frame or rigid inner sheathing.

Specifications

Prices for fibreboard (fiberboard)

Fiberboard (Fibreboard)

Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)

GVL consists of pressed gypsum reinforced with cellulose fibers. Due to its high strength, the material is suitable for creating load-bearing surfaces, therefore it is widely used in frame construction. It differs from drywall in greater density, uniformity, and the absence of a cardboard shell. In terms of frost resistance, soundproofing properties, as well as resistance to moisture and combustion, GVL also several times exceeds gypsum boards.

Installation of GVL is carried out in a frame and frameless way. For external wall cladding, the first option is used, where the sheets are fastened to the bearing racks with self-tapping screws. The material is easy to cut and drill, and, despite its heavy weight, it is quite convenient to install. Such cladding serves as an excellent basis for tiling and decorative plastering.

Advantages:

low hygroscopicity;
vapor permeability;
absence of toxic compounds in the composition;
fire safety;
high heat and sound insulation properties.

Flaws:

lack of plasticity and fragility when bending the sheet;
great weight.

Specifications

Plywood

Plywood is made by gluing thin veneer sheets of various types of wood (most often coniferous and birch). The sheets are laid perpendicular to each other with respect to the location of the fibers, which increases the mechanical strength of the material and increases the resistance to deformation. For the outer cladding of frame walls, plywood of increased moisture resistance is used, which is marked with FSF. The thickness of the sheets should be from 9-10 mm, thinner material will not provide the required rigidity to the frame.

The grade of plywood is of little importance for sheathing, and the cheapest unpolished 4/4 grade can be used.

From the outside, all defects will be hidden under the hinged facade, so there is no point in overpaying. Subject to the sheathing technology, the plywood coating will serve for years without losing its qualities.

Advantages:

high bending and compressive strength;
moisture resistance;
wear resistance;
ease of processing and installation;
frost resistance.

Flaws:

flammability;
the content of formaldehyde resins;
tendency to chipping.

Specifications

Plywood prices

Edged board

The use of edged board for cladding is the most economical option. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, affordable, easy to install. Boards can be stuffed not only horizontally, but also at an angle of 45-60 degrees. To save material, the boards can be fastened in increments of up to 30 cm, although more often the sheathing is made solid. This design perfectly strengthens the frame and is a ready-made base for a ventilated facade.

In order for the sheathing to be reliable, the boards are chosen with a thickness of at least 25 mm, they can be grooved, for a greater joint density. Do not use raw lumber: during the drying process, the wood will begin to warp, deformations of the finish coating may appear.

Advantages:

wood does not emit harmful substances and has excellent vapor permeability;
boards are easy to process;
work does not require large financial costs.

Flaws:

flammability of the material;
wood is susceptible to damage by insects and microorganisms;
fitting and fastening elements is time-consuming.

Edged board prices

Exterior cladding technology

Installation of slabs on a finished frame is carried out using the same technology, regardless of the type of material. Simultaneously with the cladding, vapor barrier and wall insulation are performed, and the finishing can be done immediately after the completion of construction or after some time. Consider the installation technology using the example of frame cladding with OSB plates.

Sheathing can be done in two ways - with and without a crate. In the first case, the vapor barrier layer is located between the frame and OSB, in the second - on top of the skin. The lathing option is used in cases where OSB acts as the basis for plastering, painting or tiling, the second method is used, as a rule, when installing a ventilated facade. Otherwise, there are no significant differences.

Step 1... Sheathing starts from the very corner. The first OSB sheet is applied to the frame posts so that the lower edge completely overlaps the lower harness of the house. Be sure to control the horizontal level. The slab itself is also recommended to be placed horizontally, rather than vertically - this provides the structure with greater rigidity. For fastening the material, use galvanized self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm. It is necessary to retreat from the edge of the OSB about 10 mm, the fastening step along the perimeter of the sheet is 15 cm, in the center - 30 cm.

Advice. To firmly fix the boards, the length of the hardware must exceed the thickness of the OSB by at least 2.5 times. If the self-tapping screw enters the frame beam by less than 30 mm, under the influence of loads, the sheathing will begin to detach from the supporting base.

Step 2. The next plate is placed next to the first, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm for thermal expansion. In the same way, they set the horizontal in level, screw the trim to the frame guides. The joints of the slabs must necessarily fall in the middle of the rack, only in this case the fastening will be as reliable as possible. The remaining plates are fixed in a circle, leaving open areas for doorways.

Step 3. The second row of cladding must be mounted with the bandaging of the vertical seams. The same gap of 2-3 mm is observed between the lower and upper plates. When covering openings, use whole sheets, not cuttings - the fewer joints, the more airtight the covering. Cutouts in the sheets are made with a jigsaw or circular saw, after making preliminary markings with millimeter accuracy. After installing the slab, the edges of the cuts should ideally coincide with the lines of the openings.

Step 4. The top plates are installed so as to completely cover the top rail. If the house has two floors, the interfloor piping should be closed by the middle of the slab - in no case should the OSB be joined on this line.

Gallery 1. An example of the construction of a one-story frame house with OSB finishing

Gallery 2. Sheathing with OSB slabs of a two-story frame house. Example

Step 5. After completing the installation, a windproof membrane is attached over the sheathing. Its canvases are stretched horizontally and fixed with staple staples to the OSB. At the joints, the film is overlapped and glued with tape. The material should not be pulled too tight, but there should be no sagging either.

Step 6. Next, the slats of the lathing are filled for finishing in increments of 50-60 cm. The slats must first be treated with a protective compound and dried. After that, you can proceed with the installation of siding, wall paneling or other decorative coating for the house.

On a note! If it is planned to paint the facade from OSB, then the membrane, respectively, is mounted only on the inside of the house.

With this method of cladding, the insulation is placed on the inner side of the walls into the cells of the frame and covered with a vapor barrier film. On top of the vapor barrier, slabs are sewn for interior decoration, for example, drywall or the same OSB.

Video - How to sheathe a frame house outside

The construction of any structure is being completed interior decoration... The main criterion for the interior decoration of a house is giving it a well-groomed appearance and efficient operation. One of the most popular types of today is eurolining.

The material is a thin board fixed around the perimeter of the room. Lining has been used for interior decoration for a long time. This type of interior decoration came to us from transport construction, when wood panels were used for covering carriages.

Material properties

The lining has a number of positive characteristics:

high environmental friendliness of the product;
pleasant appearance;
resistance to high and low temperature extremes;
increased;
lack of temperature coefficient.

The lining is actively used for wall sheathing:

wooden houses, dachas, baths,
terraces, balconies,
as a decoration for rooms,
for a bright accent in wooden buildings.

With the right choice of finishing material, the durability of such a finish can reach thirty years.

For craftsmen with experience in home wall cladding, fastening a wide lining is not difficult. The cost per square meter of cladding is extremely low, with the exception of special surface decoration.

The lining is monotonous in appearance, but experienced designers are always ready to give it a universal look and find original wall mountings.

Initially, only wood was used in the construction of houses, but modern trends and craftsmen come up with other materials for the lining. Today, this type of finish is widely used in modern construction and renovation.

This material has rightfully won its popularity. thanks to its economy. Construction markets and shops are overflowing with a wide assortment of clapboard for interior decoration.

Kinds

The main types of lining differ in material, from which they are made. Every year new items appear, presented by such materials as:

Aluminum, it is categorically not recommended for interior decoration due to the lack of resistance to high temperatures and unpresentable appearance.
PVC panels- will allow you to save on the purchase of material, but will lose in terms of durability.
MDF- pretty nice material that easily fits into any interior. Wiring is easily hidden under the MDF, and cleaning work is performed.

Despite innovative technologies in construction, the traditional choice of many construction companies is still is a tree... Various types of wood are used, the most common are linden, cedar, ash, birch, alder.

Which one is better to choose?

For interior decoration of saunas, it is recommended to purchase hardwood that does not allow moisture to pass through and does not release heat outside the room. with coniferous wood trim will be filled with a pleasant aroma.

There is an opinion about the fragility of the tree and the influence of external factors on it. A few decades ago, one could agree with this opinion, but not today, when stores are overflowing with a huge selection of various wood care products.

When choosing the right wood, it is extremely her class is important:

Extra- has no defects and chips, it is considered an ideal option for repair;
A- has no core, knots and resin pockets are allowed on it (no more than two);
B- material with two knots, two pockets, one spot of contrasting paint and two cracks can be attributed;
C- is already less suitable for finishing work, since it has a number of the above disadvantages.

Particularly popular use 2 cladding options:

horizontal sheathing - fasteners are made from the ceiling to the floor, which prevents debris and moisture from entering;
vertical sheathing is made from the corner, and on the reverse side of the board, the kleimer is placed in the groove, then attached to the crate.

How to sheathe a "block house" with decorative clapboard?

Special attention should be paid for home decoration - "block house"... This finish is suitable for the living room, kitchen, hallway, and will be a great solution for the attic.

An important plus will be that the block-house technique lets the walls breathe and create a pleasant microclimate for the inhabitants of the home. This type of attachment will create improved sound insulation compared to the above methods.

Before performing the work, the calculation of the fittings and the amount of material is made. But an even more important process is to let the freshly purchased material lie down without packaging. about three days in the room where it will be installed.

Preparing the walls

The panels are installed on dry and level walls, so the surface must be free from defects. Walls should be waterproofed with a special film or deep impregnation.

Without this procedure, wood panels may not withstand the high moisture content, and the work will have to be redone.

Areas with fungal infections on the wall are treated with an antiseptic. It is better to process all the walls with it. After thoroughly impregnating the walls, they will become resistant to the negative effects of fire and mold. Impregnation with a water-repellent composition is required before starting such work.

Learn how to level the walls with plaster from our article.

If you wish, you can install additional materials for thermal and noise-insulating construction. As sound insulation, polystyrene foam or mineral plates are installed.

Vapor barrier film can be purchased with the purchase of cladding material. The work begins with covering the walls with a film, which in the future will serve as a steam insulation.

Frame fabrication

The fabrication of the frame takes place in the following stages:

Wooden panels are heavy, therefore, for high-quality sheathing, you will need to make a reliable frame.

For a frame using the block house technique, a wooden base is suitable. The frame must be made of strips, the distance between which does not exceed 65 cm.

Before installing the frame, you need to outline the places where sockets, switches and other electronics will be located. These marks are needed in order to make cutouts in the cladding before installation.

The bars can be fixed to the wall, either with nails or with mounting strips. After completion of work on the manufacture of the frame, you can start decorating in the block house style with your own hands.

See the video clip for the mounting option for the lathing:

Panel mounting

For accurate measurement, use plumb line, square and level. To calculate how much board will be spent, you need to make simple calculations: divide the total area of the room by the area of one board.

Having calculated the area of one board, it is easy to find out how much of the total material will go to cover the entire surface. If there is a shortage of panels, additional clamps to fix the problem.

The fastening of the wood panels begins on the pre-installed battens. The starting bar is installed from the bottom, with indented up to 1 cm, such a procedure is done to actively ventilate the walls and avoid further deformation of the material. A similar indent is made in the upper part of the wall.

The block house is set only in the horizontal direction. Sometimes craftsmen choose a vertical installation, but this method has a lot of disadvantages.

Fastening to the frame is carried out using self-tapping screws at an angle of 30-45 degrees. A hole is made on the surface of the panel with a thin drill, and then a self-tapping screw is screwed into it.

The screw head must not go deeper than 3 mm.

Further, the panels are gradually installed from bottom to top. When installing the panel, the spike must point up. The wood is connected to each other using spikes and grooves. If desired, corner joints are held together with corners.

There are several ways to hide the screw heads:

With the help of the material left over from work.

Corks are formed from the scraps and fixed with PVA glue in the recesses. Uneven spots are smoothed out with sandpaper.

You can use "wood paste" made from PVA glue and sawdust.

The thick composition is poured into the holes. The downside of the method is a possible discrepancy between the color of the composition and the wood.

Special plugs, which can be bought at a hardware store, will easily close irregularities.

Fastened with PVA glue.

For detailed installation of panels, see the video:

Corner decoration

Making corners using the block house technique causes difficulty when trimming yourself.

It is possible to purchase in advance "boats" for finishing the inner corners and elements specially designed for outer corners. The finished skirting boards will be in close contact with the block house only at the top point, as a result of which the cladding will have open slots, and this is unacceptable.

It is much more convenient to use planed timber with dimensions 5x5... Its installation is carried out before the start of the sheathing. The block house is attached to the bars and the finish will look much smoother and more professional. This method is effective for interior and exterior corners.

The final stage is surface grinding, but such work should be done with caution. One awkward movement can disrupt the structure of the board.

How to neatly make the corners, see this video:

Which coating to choose: paint or varnish?

alkyd;
acrylic;
linseed.

The impregnation will significantly extend the life of the Blockhouse, reduce the appearance of surface cracks and, most importantly, impart fire-resistant and bioprotective properties to the wood.

In the event that naturalness is an important point, and you want to preserve the appearance of the tree, varnishing will be an alternative to painting. The surface for the varnish must be perfectly clean and free of extraneous irregularities.

To work on the walls, you will need a roller or regular paint brush. Coating is done in several layers, except for the first tonic staining impregnation.

Which of the coverage methods to choose will depend on the desire of the owner of the premises. If he is an adherent of traditional design and wants to keep the natural look of his walls, he will need a varnish solution.

If the room is planned as a youth room or the walls should become a bright accent, of course, preference should be given.
If the finishing is done at the highest level, the room will look noble and presentable.

The cost of installing the lining

Installing a wooden lining is a laborious process that consists of many operations: preparing the walls, installing the battens, attaching the material to the walls and final impregnation.

The detailed cost of the work looks like this:

Assembly and preparation of the lathing 180 rubles.
Wind protection device 150 rubles.
Covering structural elements with an antiseptic 30 rubles.
Installation of 400 rubles.
Impregnation with varnish or paint 70 rubles.

For a more accurate answer to the question about the cost of work, you should contact the representatives of the construction company.